Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016 


https://archive.org/details/andesamazonlifetOOenoc 


THE  ANDES  AND  THE  AMAZON 


CHILE 


Its  History  and  Development.  Natural 
Features,  Products,  Commerce  and 
Present  Conditions. 

BY  G.  F.  SCOTT  ELLIOT,  M.A.,  F.R.G.S. 

AUTHOR  or  “A  NATURALIST  IN  MID'AFRICA." 

With  an  Introduction  by  Major  Martin  Hutnc , 
a May,  and  Thirty  two  I Unit  rations. 

New  York:  Charles  Scribner’s  Sons. 


<T.  f 


Fr<mtisfu<e. 


THE  ANDES  AND  THE 
AMAZON 

LIFE  AND  TRAVEL  IN  PERU 


C.  REGINALD  ENOCK,  F.R.G.S. 


WITH  A MAP , FOUR  COLOURED  PLATES , AND 
FIFTY-EIGHT  OTHER  ILLUSTRATIONS 


NEW  YORK 

CHARLES  SCRIBNER’S  SONS 

I53-IS7,  FIFTH  AVENUE 
1907 


Printed  in  Great  Britain. 


* 


[All  rights  reserved .] 


PREFACE 


PERU  is  a country  covered  with  a certain  halo  of 
romance — the  romance  of  history ; of  that  time 
when  continents  were  found,  taken,  and  explored  ; the 
romance  of  a civilised  and  little-known  race — the  Inca — 
extending  back  before  the  keels  of  those  old  caravels 
from  Europe  ploughed  the  seas  of  the  New  World  ; the 
romance  of  the  Spaniards,  picturesque  and  cruel;  the 
romance  of  Nature  in  her  most  stupendous  operations, 
her  Andean  and  Amazonian  handiwork. 

The  true  traveller  must  not  banish  the  natural 
sentiment  of  such  portentous  matters  from  his  vision. 
It  is  not  a sentiment  which  will  render  it  opaque,  but 
is  rather  the  stimulus  of  imagination,  which  directs  his 
steps  and  urges  his  pen  and  pencil  to  the  portraying 
of  the  things  which  pass  before  his  senses. 

Moreover,  the  true  traveller  must  be  an  Universalist. 
That  is,  he  must  see  the  good  of  things,  the  good  which 
penetrates  everything  in  conjunction  with,  or  in  superior 
relation  to,  the  so  palpable  evil  of  Man  and  Circum- 
stance. The  bare  wilderness  and  the  poor  Indian  have 
some  use  and  intrinsic  value,  as  well  as  the  cultivated 
valley  and  the  civilised  dweller  of  the  cities.  Loyal  to 
Nature  and  the  universe  of  which  he  is  a part,  the 
traveller  and  observer  will  be  an  impartial  judge ; he 
will  ever  refrain  from  “ drawing  up  an  indictment  against 
a whole  nation,”  or  from  hastily  condemning  any  existing 
thing. 


Vlll 


Preface 


indeed  ; but  the  present  reveals  progress,  and  the  future 
holds  forth  hope.  The  race,  like  the  territory  it  inhabits, 
contains  unknown  possibilities : resources  lying  dormant, 
waiting  the  hour  when  Nature  and  Time  shall  call  upon 
them  to  perform  their  functions  and  fulfil  their  destiny. 

The  consciousness  of  progress  and  betterment  in  a 
community,  when  it  occurs,  is  unmistakable,  although  the 
condition  may  not  be  one  which  can  be  measured  by 
distinct  data  of  time  or  circumstance.  Such  matters  are 
rather  indefinable,  like  all  great  changes  in  Nature’s 
marshalling  of  Man.  Such  a change  is  taking  place  in 
Peru : that  vast  territory  bordering  upon  the  Pacific 
Ocean,  and  extending  inwards  into  the  heart  of  the  South 
American  continent,  whose  small  population  occupies  a 
region — an  empire;  whose  resources  and  conditions  are 
still  but  little  known  to  the  outside  world. 

The  Republic  of  Peru,  like  all  other  communities  of 
Spanish  America,  has  endured  its  baptism  of  sword  and 
priestcraft.  But  the  Peruvian  proclaims  that  the  day  of 
metamorphosis  is  at  hand ; and,  as  will  be  shown,  he  is 
losing  some  of  the  evil  conditions  which  were  grafted  upon 
his  country  by  his  progenitors.  The  three  main  causes 
which  have  dominated  the  community  to  their  hurt  have 
been  political  methods,  militarism,  and  clericalism ; but 
these  are  now  giving  way  to  the  principles  of  fair 
government  which  the  inexorable  march  of  civilisation 
demands. 

In  politics  the  “Caudillo” — a word  which  hardly  has 
its  translation  in  English,  unless  it  be  the  American 
“Boss”  of  Tammany  dialect — tends  to  disappear.  These 
political  “ wire-pullers  ” — candidates  for  the  Presidency, 
supported  by  those  followers  who  sought  only  their 
own  ends — have  in  Peru  long  prostituted  the  term  of 
Republicanism.  But  their  domination  is  threatened  now 
with  extinction.  As  to  militarism,  the  sword  is  falling 
also  into  the  crucible  of  reformation,  which  may  trans- 


Preface 


IX 


form  it  from  the  oppressor  of  its  country  into  the 
defender  thereof,  for  the  tendency  to  civil  strife  is 
disappearing.  And  the  retrograde  influence  of  the 
Romish  Church  is  waning,  dying  a natural  death ; or 
will  do  so  if  its  exponents  fail  to  adapt  their  machinery 
to  the  needs  of  modern  intelligence  and  awakening 
truth. 

But  it  is  no  less  in  the  general  tone  and  method  of 
thought  and  aspiration  of  the  people  that  the  change 
is  evident.  In  the  capital,  as  in  the  provinces,  any 
suggestion  of  revolution  needs  no  burning  of  powder  to 
put  it  down ; it  is  rather  frowned  down  by  popular 
feeling,  by  the  citizens  who,  from  the  highest  to  the 
lowest,  see  the  vanity  of  former  ways.  This  has  been 
exemplified  in  the  election  of  the  last  and  present 
Presidents,  when  the  laws  of  voting  have  been  more 
respected. 

There  is  a spirit  arising  among  the  upper  class 
regarding  the  development  of  the  resources  of  their 
country  which  is  in  contrast  with  the  lack  of  enterprise 
formerly  displayed.  The  professions  of  the  Army,  the 
Law,  and  Politics,  so  much  sought  after  by  the  Spanish 
American,  who,  sometimes  contemptuous  of  the  truly 
producing  avocations,  has  been  content  to  live  at  the 
expense  of,  rather  than  to  the  benefit  of,  his  country, 
are  no  longer  considered  the  only  ones  to  be  followed. 
Engineering  as  a profession,  for  example,  is  much 
esteemed  and  followed  by  the  younger  generation,  and 
it  is  safe  to  say  that  such  a condition  is  a mark  of 
progress.  If  these  matters  are  yet  only  upon  a small 
scale  they  are  significant,  nevertheless,  of  some  renaissance 
in  the  body  politic.  They  are  allied  to  the  true  interests 
of  the  soil — the  only  real  base  of  national  greatness  for 
Peru  ; and  as  to  the  resources  of  their  soil,  the  Peruvians 
have  a heritage  which  must  some  day  afford  them  great 
things. 


X 


Preface 


For  Peru  is  a country,  as  the  observant  traveller  may 
bear  witness,  endowed  with  everything  in  the  mineral 
and  vegetable  world  which  could  make  its  inhabitants 
prosperous.  The  gold-fields  contain  gold  whose  value 
may  take  rank  with  those  of  any  other  country ; the 
silver  mines  have  been  famous  for  centuries ; the  iron, 
copper,  lead,  and  quicksilver  deposits  will  be  the  base 
of  much  wealth ; and  the  coal-beds  might  render  the 
country  in  the  future  a manufacturing  nation. 

Peru  contains  all  the  products  of  the  tropical,  semi- 
tropical,  and  temperate  zones;  and  her  1,400  miles  of 
Pacific  littoral,  and  situation  upon  the  largest  system  of 
navigable  waterways  in  the  world — the  Amazon  and  its 
affluents  — must  some  day  cause  her  to  become  the 
centre  of  a busy  and  extensive  population.  If  she  can 
now  but  assure  stability  within  and  peace  without,  an 
era  will  have  arrived  for  her  which  is  the  commence- 
ment of  real  progress. 

It  is  a good  sign,  with  nations  as  with  individuals, 
when  the  misfortunes  of  the  past  have  come  to  be 
looked  upon  as  chastening  events  in  their  history ; as 
events  which,  bitter  at  the  time,  have  brought  some 
benefit  in  disguise,  and  some  enduring  lesson.  This  has 
taken  place  to  some  extent  with  regard  to  the  loss  of 
the  riches  of  their  nitrate  fields,  which  were  taken  from 
Peru  as  indemnity  by  the  Chilians  during  the  war. 
Many  Peruvians  state  that  they  look  back  upon  that  as 
the  source  of  too  easy  a revenue  ; that  corruption  resulted 
from  its  enjoyment,  decay  of  national  morals  and  the 
engendering  of  dishonesty.  “ All  of  these  qualities,”  the 
Peruvians  say,  “ have  been  inherited  by  the  Chilians 
along  with  their  ill-gotten  gains,  and  are  rapidly  bearing 
their  evil  effect”  Be  that  as  it  may,  the  justice  or 
injustice  of  those  events  relating  to  Tarapaca  and  Tacna 
and  Arica  is  not  to  be  considered  lightly;  but  there  is 
probably  much  that  is  true  in  the  Peruvian  view,  and  it 


Preface 


xi 


is  doubtful  if  much  lasting  good  has  accrued  to  the 
Chilians  as  a nation  from  the  valuable  possessions  they 
acquired,  and  the  large  revenues  from  the  nitrate  fields 
which  they  enjoy. 

The  relations  of  Peru  are,  preferably,  friendly  with  all 
her  neighbours : that  is,  as  friendly  as  it  is  possible  to  be 
under  the  conditions  of  ill-defined  boundaries  of  frontiers, 
and  other  clashing  interests.  A disposition  is  growing 
among  all  these  Republics,  happily,  to  submit  their 
boundary  disputes  to  arbitration,  and  to  abide  by  the 
result. 

And  it  is  very  necessary  to  define  these  boundaries, 
for,  unknown  and  uninhabited  as  the  vast  territories 
which  they  enclose  are,  some  day  they  must  figure 
largely  among  the  “ assets  ” of  the  globe.  As  for  Peru, 
every  diversity  of  climate  and  topography  is  hers.  I 
have  often  stood  upon  the  summit  of  the  Andes,  on  that 
perpetual  snow-cap  where  the  aneroid  shows  16,500  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  watched  the  snowflakes  falling.  On 
the  one  hand  where  they  fall  they  melt  and  fade  into 
the  streams  which  descend  to  the  Pacific.  On  the  other 
they  merge  into  the  rivulets,  which  in  gathering  volume 
rush  eastwardly  to  where,  a thousand  leagues  away,  the 
vast  Amazon  debouches  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 

“ Do  not  write  of  the  Incas  ; of  our  buried  temples ; 
of  a past  civilisation,”  the  Peruvian  will  entreat  you, 
“ but  tell  of  our  natural  resources : of  what  we  can  offer 
to  Capital  and  Emigration.”  He  will  often  add  a 
corollary  of  regret  that  the  Anglo-Saxon  had  not  been 
the  “ Conquistador  ” instead  of  the  Spaniard  ; and  truly, 
upon  reflection  it  is  a regret  which  expresses  a truth. 
Whether  the  Inca  civilisation  would  have  bequeathed 
something  which  might  have  been  perpetuated  and 
developed  by  a more  practical  and  tolerant  race  than  the 
Spaniards  leaves  little  room  for  doubt ; but  one  thing  is 
certain,  that  the  unspeakable  acts  of  Pizarro  and  his 


XU 


Preface 


uneducated  companions  not  only  stamped  it  completely 
out,  but  left  behind  them  a legacy  of  the  defects  of  their 
race  and  status  which  centuries  have  not  served,  and  will 
not  serve,  to  extirpate.  They  committed  an  outrage 
against  Nature,  and,  like  all  such  violations,  it  has  borne 
a bitter  fruit.  They  and  their  race  spoilt  the  develop- 
ment of  a continent  which,  when  it  arrives  some  day 
to  overcome  the  defects  it  has  started  with,  will  have 
done  so  in  great  part,  it  is  more  than  probable,  by  the 
co-operation  of  Anglo-Saxon  nations. 

Hut  let  us  turn  from  these  considerations  and  examine 
the  physical  aspect  of  this  vast  region.  Let  us  ascend 
and  cross  the  huge  Cordillera  of  the  Andes,  the  father 
of  the  country ; for  the  Andes  is  its  source  of  life,  the 
raison  d'etre  of  its  being. 


CONTENTS 


CHAP.  PAGE 

1.  INTRODUCTION  .....  I 

II.  THE  ANDES  ......  IO 

III.  PERUVIAN  TRAVEL  .....  17 

IV.  PERUVIAN  travel  ( continued)  . 31 

v.  PERUVIAN  TRAVEL  {continued)  ...  44 

VI.  PERUVIAN  TRAVEL  {continued)  . . . 58 

VII.  THE  UPPER  MARANON  ...  .69 

VIII.  REGION  OF  THE  UPPER  MARANON  . . . 8l 

IX.  LIFE  IN  THE  CITIES  OF  THE  ANDES  . 89 

X.  LIFE  IN  THE  CITIES  OF  THE  ANDES  ( continued ) . IOO 

XI.  THE  REGIONS  OF  SANDIA  AND  CARABAYA,  AND 

LAKE  TITICACA  . . . IIO 

XII.  HUANCAVELICA  AND  ADJOINING  DEPARTMENTS  . 1 26 

XIII.  THE  PERUVIAN  INDIANS  OF  THE  ANDES  . . 137 

XIV.  THE  CHURCH  IN  PERU  . . . 1 52 

XV.  THE  HIGH  ANDEAN  PLATEAUX  . . . 160 

XVI.  ASCENTS  OF  SNOW-CAPPED  SUMMITS  AND  PEAKS  . 171 

XVII.  MINERAL  WEALTH  .....  184 

xviii.  MINERAL  WEALTH  {continued)  . . .197 

xix.  MINERAL  WEALTH  {continued)  . . .205 

XX.  THE  INCA  CIVILISATION  . . .210 

xiii 


XIV 


Contents 


CHAP. 

XXI.  THE  INCA  RUINS  ..... 

XXII.  THE  RUINS  OF  HUANUCO  VIEJO 
XX1I1.  THE  INCA  ROADS  ..... 

XXIV.  THE  INCA  CIVILISATION  IN  THE  AMAZONIAN  FORESTS 

XXV.  THE  MONTANA  AND  THE  AMAZON 

XXVI.  THE  MONTANA  AND  THE  AMAZON  ( continued ) 

XXVII.  THE  MONTANA  AND  THE  AMAZON  (continued) 
XXVIII.  THE  MONTANA  AND  THE  AMAZON.  INDIA-RUBBER 

XXIX.  THE  PERUVIANS  ..... 

XXX.  LIMA  . . . . 

XXXI.  lima  (continued)  ..... 

XXXII.  LIMA  (continued)  ..... 

XXXIII.  PIRATES  AND  BUCCANEERS;  EARTHQUAKES  AND 
TIDAL  WAVES  ..... 

XXXIV.  COLONISATION,  COMMERCE,  RAILWAYS 
XXXV.  SOUTH  AMERICAN  RELATIONS  .... 
INDEX  ...... 


220 

229 

237 

245 

256 

264 

277 

285 

294 

307 

312 

320 

33  > 
346 
358 
371 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS 


PORTRAIT  OF  THE  AUTHOR 
THE  COAST  OF  PERU  ( Coloured  Plate ) 
SNOW-CAPPED  PEAKS  IN  THE  ANDES  ( Coloured 
Plate ) ...... 

INCA  RUINS  above  THE  MARANON  {Coloured  Plate) 
FOSSIL  AMMONITES  IN  THE  ANDES 
TYPICAL  VILLAGE  OF  THE  ANDES  . 

THE  UPPER  MARANON  ; VILLAGE  OF  TANTAMAYO 
THE  DESERT  : SAND  DUNES  NEAR  AREQUIPA 

( Coloured  Plate)  .... 

PART  OF  AREQUIPA,  AND  THE  MISTI  VOLCANO  . 
SUMMIT  OF  THE  ANDES  : PASS  OF  YANASHALLAS 
CHOLO  POLICEMEN  AND  HORSE-THIEVES  : RECUAY 
INCA  BRIDGE  AT  CHAVIN  .... 

SUBTERRANEAN  MONOLITH  ; CASTLE  OF  CHAVIN 
CARVED  INCA  STONE  FROM  CHAVIN 
THE  MONTANA  : COCAINE  FACTORY  AT  MONZON  . 
THE  UPPER  MARANON  : RUINED  INCA  CASTLE  . 
THE  UPPER  MARANON  : AN  INCA  FORTRESS 
SHEPHERD’S  COTTAGE  IN  THE  ANDES 
CITY  OF  HUARAZ  AND  PART  OF  THE  CORDILLERA 
BLANCA  ...... 

RELIGIOUS  PROCESSION  AT  HUARAZ 
LOOKING  ACROSS  THE  VALLEY  OF  HUAYLAS 
PEAK  OF  COROPUNA  .... 

OLD  GOLD  MINES  OF  APOROMA 
STREET  IN  AREQUIPA  (see  p.  97)  . 

INDIAN  JUNKS  ON  LAKE  TITICACA 
INDIAN  HOUSES  NEAR  LAKE  TITICACA  . 

INCA  RUINS  NEAR  PISCO  .... 

RUINS  OF  INCAHUASI  : INTERIOR  COLUMNS 
VIEW  ON  THE  OROYA  RAILWAY 


Frontispiece 
To  face  page  7 


13 

16 


28 


4i 
54 
69 
7 1 

73 

74 

75 

77 

78 
80 
86 

89 

92 

94 
1 10 

”5 

123 

123 

124 

127 

128 
135 


xv 


XVI 


List  of  Illustrations 


CHOLA  GIRL  OF  THE  ANDES 
ANDEAN  VALLEY,  SHOWING  “ANDENES”  . 
RELIGIOUS  PROCESSION  NEAR  HUARAZ  . 

THE  HIGH  PLATEAUX  : HEAD  OF  A VALLEY  AND 
INCA  RUINS  .... 
SUMMIT  OF  THE  ANDES 
ON  THE  SUMMIT  OF  THE  ANDES  . 

PROFILES  OF  THE  PERUVIAN  ANDES  ( Two  Diagn 
THE  HIGH  PLATEAUX:  RETIRING  SNOW-CAP 
CITY  OF  HUARAZ  AND  THE  HUASCARAN  PEAK 
GLACIER  AT  HEAD  OF  QUILCAY  VALLEY,  NEAR 
HUARAZ  ..... 

HEAD  OF  A VALLEY : CORDILLERA  BLANCA 
VALLEY  OF  HUAYLAS  : TOWN  OF  YUNGAY  AND 
THE  HUASCARAN  PEAK 

THE  HUASCARAN  PEAK  : A SNAPSHOT  : SOROCHE 
STRICKEN  MULES 

TYPICAL  MINING  HACIENDA  IN  THE  ANDES 
COAL  STRATA  ON  THE  PACIFIC  COAST 
LAKE  TITICACA:  TEMPLE  OF  VIRACOCHA. 

CUZCO  : BASE  OF  THE  PALACE  OF  HUAYNA-CAP 
BASE  OF  THE  PALACE  OF  OLI.ANTA 
RUINS  OF  HUANUCO  VIEJO;  ONE  OF  THE  DOOR 
WAYS  TO  THE  INCA  PALACE;  LOOKING  WEST 
RUINS  OF  HUANUCO  VIEJO:  RUINS  OF  THE  INC. 

PALACE:  LOOKING  EAST 
RUINS  OF  HUANUCO  VIEJO  : THE  INCA  BATHS 
SUMMIT  OF  THE  ANDES  : AN  INCA  PASS  . 

PART  OF  THE  CASTLE  OF  CHAVIN  . 

GOLD  AND  OTHER  OBJECTS  FROM  SUBTERRANEAN 
INCA  TEMPLE:  HUARAZ 
GROUP  OF  LLAMAS  AT  A RAILWAY  STATION 
THE  EDGE  OF  THE  MONTANA 
THE  AMAZON  AT  IQUITOS  . 

INDIAN  RAFTS  AND  CANOES  ON  THE  MARANON 
ANUESHA  INDIAN  WOMAN  OF  THE  FORESTS 
THE  MONTANA  . CANNIBALS  OF  THE  PACHITE 
RIVER  ..... 

THE  MONTANA  : LORENZO  INDIANS 
LIMA  : THE  CATHEDRAL 
THE  PRESIDENT  : DOCTOR  JOS£  PARDO  . 


ams) 


To  face  page 


\C 


*37 

140 

156 

160 

164 

164 

166 

168 

171 

172 
176 

178 

183 

200 

207 

216 

221 

222 

230 

233 

234 
239 

*4 1 

25* 

252 

256 

264 

275 

277 

279 

279 

307 

320 


THE  ANDES  AND  THE  AMAZON 


CHAPTER  I 

INTRODUCTION 

Spanish  - American  Republics  are  generally  vaguely 
thought  of  in  Europe  as  small  communities  with  an 
incipient  civilisation  and  endless  revolutions,  where  all 
soldiers  are  “generals,”  and  all  citizens  government 
employees.  And  there  has  really  been  some  foundation 
for  this  view,  especially  among  some  of  the  lesser  States 
of  those  fertile  regions.  But  there  are  other  and  more 
favourable  conditions  underlying  these  communities ; con- 
ditions which  are  comparatively  little  known  to  the  outside 
world,  and  which  are  worthy  of  serious  consideration. 

The  foundation  for  the  elements  of  greatness  of  a 
nation — after  the  weighty  matter  of  race  character — 
depends  upon  the  geographical  conditions  of  its  soil. 
There  is  a certain  condition  of  “ geographical  continuity,” 
if  I may  invent  the  term,  which  should  be  characteristic 
of  the  territory  of  a great  nation.  This  term  involves 
a feeling  of  amplitude  and  extension ; of  unconfined 
frontiers,  bordering  upon  public  or  international  high- 
ways, such  as  oceans  or  vast  rivers — the  possibility  of 
ingress  and  egress  at  more  than  one  side. 

Peru  has  this  condition  of  “ geographical  continuity  ” 
in  a marked  manner,  in  that  whilst  possessing  a vast 
littoral  and  interior  dominion  upon  the  Pacific  side,  she 
stretches  across  the  Andes,  and  also  has  her  natural 
outlet  upon  the  system  of  Amazonian  rivers  towards 

A 


4 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


highest  peaks  on  the  globe,  and  many  of  its  mineral 
deposits  are,  of  their  kind,  the  largest  in  the  world. 
From  all  this  greatness  of  nature,  shall  not  there  spring 
some  day  greatness  of  man — a leader  of  nations  of  her 
race  and  in  her  hemisphere?  Time  will  show.  Her 
children  have  a magnificent  heritage,  and  they  are  work- 
ing now  towards  the  time  when  it  shall  no  longer  be  said 
of  them,  as  it  might,  indeed,  have  been  written  of  all 
Spanish- America,  “Unstable  as  water;  thou  shalt  not 
excel ! ” 

The  country  is  worthy  of  a wider  and  better  reputation 
than  it  possesses.  Its  inhabitants  have  had  many  difficulties 
to  struggle  against — difficulties  of  race,  of  inherited  defects 
and  characteristics  from  their  Spanish  ancestors;  difficulties 
of  topography  and  of  geography ; and  difficulties  of  border 
feuds  and  of  rapacious  neighbours.  They  arc  striving  to 
carry  forward  the  principles  of  Western  civilisation  in  a 
vast  and  difficult  area  of  a little-known  continent,  and  they 
arc  worthy  of  help  and  encouragement  from  richer  and 
more  advanced  nations. 

1 have  touched  somewhat  upon  the  climate  and  pro- 
ducts of  the  country,  and  the  very  diversified  character  of 
the  different  zones  into  which  the  republic  is  divided  by 
its  physical  formation.  The  vast  chain  of  the  Andes, 
which  I have  termed  the  father  of  the  country,  positively 
divides  Peru  into  two  regions  of  entirely  different  character, 
and,  except  in  one  case,  it  is  impossible  to  pass  from  one 
to  the  other  without  ascending  and  crossing  this  vast  range, 
at  an  altitude  of  1 3, coo  to  14,000  feet.  This  great  difference 
of  climate,  and  therefore  of  vegetation,  is  due  to  the  fact 
that  the  whole  of  the  coast-zone  from  the  south  of  Ecuador 
down  to,  and  including  much  of,  Chile,  is  a region  practically 
without  rainfall. 

To  what  is  this  phenomenon  due?  It  is  explained  by 
two  causes.  The  first  is  that  the  high  chain  of  the  Andes 
intercepts  the  prevailing  wind,  which  blows  from  Africa 
and  the  Atlantic,  and  across  the  plains  and  forests  of 
South  America  itself,  intercepting  the  moisture  with  which 
this  is  laden,  depositing  it  in  the  form  of  snow  upon  the 


Introduction 


5 

summits.  Secondly,  the  cool  current  flowing  up  the 
Pacific  coast  of  South  America,  from  south  to  north, 
known  as  the  Humboldt  current,  and  which,  being  lower 
in  temperature  than  the  air  and  the  sea,  prevents  the 
evaporation  of  the  latter.  This  current  flows  at  a rate 
of  about  io  miles  an  hour,  and  is  from  20  to  40  leagues 
in  width ; and  it  gives  rise  to  the  relatively  cool  and 
equable  temperature  of  the  coast-zone,  and  is  also  the 
cause  of  the  heavy  mist  upon  the  coast,  known  as 
Camanchaca , which  prevails  at  intervals  from  December 
to  May,  and  which  permits  the  existence  of  natural  pasture 
on  the  foothills. 

I have  spent  long  periods  in  observing  the  coast  of 
Peru,  from  the  decks  of  the  comfortable  steamers  that  ply 
up  and  down,  and  which  are  the  only  means  of  com- 
munication from  one  port  to  another.  And  I have  ridden 
along  it  for  days  on  horseback — days  of  azure  sky  and 
ocean,  of  yellow  sands  and  lapping  waves  upon  that 
junction  where  land  and  water  unceasingly  struggle  for 
mastery : a solitude  unbroken  by  any  human  element, 
except  the  occasional  Indian  fisher  with  his  net. 

What  a fascination  there  is  in  those  journeys ! Alone, 
except  for  my  arriero  and  servant,  generally  far  behind 
me  on  their  respective  beasts,  driving  the  straying  pack- 
mule  with  my  baggage.  Alone  with  those  glorious 
expanses  of  Nature  in  that  remote  region,  studying  that 
open  book,  whose  pages,  one  by  one,  she  presents  to  the 
observer.  What  landscape  studies  in  geology  are  laid 
bare  there!  Here  are  the  underlying  plutonic  rocks  of 
the  very  foundation  of  the  continent,  polished  by  the  waves 
and  sand  ; here  are  masses  of  strange  conglomerate,  look- 
ing like  some  Titanic  work  of  concrete ; here  are  strange 
wind-laid  strata  of  sand,  forming  cornices  and  entablatures 
along  the  summits  of  low  cliffs  ; and  curious  caves,  worn 
by  the  ceaseless  action  of  wave  and  wind-blown  sand. 

From  time  to  time  I pass  rocky  promontories  where 
the  trail  necessarily  winds  upwards  from  the  beach  to 
surmount  them,  and  I look  down  where  the  rollers  break 
below.  Small  rocky  points  of  islands  arise  just  beyond, 


b The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

covered  with  myriad  sea  - fowl — those  manufacturers  of 
the  coveted  phosphates — the  “guano,”  of  commerce. 

Of  so  much  wealth  in  past  years,  and  of  such  evil 
reputation  has  been  this  product,  such  fortunes  made, 
such  reputations  ruined,  that  the  very  word  conveys  an 
evil  odour ! One  thinks  of  bribed  Senators,  fraudulent 
shipments,  and  ill-gotten  gains  squandered  in  Parisian 
delights ! 

The  trail  winds  on,  and  the  sea-front  is  for  a moment 
hidden  by  sand-dunes,  and  suddenly  upon  my  ear  there 
falls  a continuous  bleating  as  of  sheep  in  distress.  I look 
around  to  discover  them.  “Where  are  the  sheep?”  I ask 
my  native  servant  in  surprise,  as  he  rides  up,  for  the 
sandy  wastes  show  no  single  blade  of  herbage.  “They 
are  not  sheep,  Seftor,”  he  replies.  “They  are  lobos  del 
mar  (sea  wolves)”;  and,  sure  enough,  on  emerging  from 
the  sand-dunes,  I behold  hundreds  of  seals  upon  a rocky 
promontory  below,  where  the  waves  beat  ceaselessly. 

Further  on  my  horse  stumbles  over  some  object  half 
buried  in  the  sand.  It  is  a whale  - bone,  fully  14  feet 
in  length,  and  here  and  there  arc  the  enormous  frontal 
bones  of  these  great  mammals,  thrown  up  heaven  knows 
how  long  ago.  It  is  easy  riding  along  the  very  verge 
of  the  ocean  — the  sand  is  wet,  and  the  horse’s  hoofs 
leave  a bare  impression.  Higher  up  it  is  more  difficult, 
and  the  animal  sinks  deep  in  the  loose,  dry  sand.  Here, 
also,  are  the  curious  travelling  sand-dunes  which  one  finds 
in  these  places,  known  in  Spanish  as  Medanos , and  which 
I have  described  elsewhere. 

The  Pacific  coast  of  South  America  is  at  first  sight 
disappointing,  perhaps  because  the  traveller  has  expected 
to  find  a region  covered  with  tropical  vegetation,  forgetting 
that  in  a rainless  zone  nothing  grows  except  under  irriga- 
tion. Interminable  barren  stretches  of  sandy  precipices, 
monotonous  in  the  little-broken  line  of  sea-front,  present 
themselves  to  the  eye  when  beheld  from  the  steamer’s 
deck,  and  rocky  promontories,  washed  by  the  waves.  The 
whole  coast-zone,  the  relatively  narrow  strip  between  the 
ocean  and  the  Andes,  seems  to  be  largely  a residue  or 


T hi  Coast  or  Puu  A Small  Po«t 


Introduction 


7 


after-formation  of  the  latter,  with  which  the  sea  constantly 
disputes  dominion.  It  presents  in  places  a sharply  cut-off 
face  of  unstable  sandy  soil,  and,  far  beyond,  the  foothills 
of  the  Andes  arise ; whilst  behind  there  is  the  faint  grey, 
serrated  edge  and  mass  of  the  main  range,  topped  at  times 
by  the  far-off  white  point  of  a snow-capped  peak. 

But  there  are,  nevertheless,  numerous  bays ; unsheltered 
often,  where  the  coast-line  is  broken  away  by  some  descend- 
ing river,  giving  rise  to  a fertile  plain,  a town,  irrigated 
plantations  of  cane  and  cotton,  and  the  conditions  necessary 
for  the  life  of  man.  The  steamer  has  anchored  off  such  a 
port.  A long  mole  stretches  out  beyond  the  succeeding 
lines  of  breakers,  but  not  far  enough  into  deep  water  for 
the  steamers  to  go  alongside.  Huge  launches,  which  have 
laid  at  anchor  all  night  awaiting  the  steamer’s  advent,  now 
toil  out  towards  us.  They  are  loaded  with  bales  of  cotton, 
or  sacks  of  sugar  ; often  they  contain  bags  of  ores — gold, 
silver,  and  copper,  from  the  mines  of  that  far-off  Cordillera — 
or  bars  of  bullion  ; and  the  four  or  five  rowers  stand  in  the 
prow  bending  the  long  sweeps  in  their  movement  of  the 
heavy  mass  they  are  slowly  urging  forward.  Behold  these 
sons  of  toil ! They  are  generally  a mixture  of  the  negro 
and  the  Cholo , or  Peruvian- Indian,  and  they  bear  the 
imprint  of  their  low  caste  upon  their  countenances.  Yet 
life  is  not  hard  for  them,  except  on  steamer  days,  and 
they  may  take  their  fill  of  sunshine  ; whilst  empty  bellies 
are  more  easily  filled  in  tropical  ports,  where  a handful  of 
bananas  may  be  begged,  or  stolen  from  the  cargo — more 
easily  than  in  the  more  civilised  poverty  of  Britain  or 
North  America,  where  starvation  is  less  picturesque  and 
more  frequent ! 

But  the  steamer’s  siren  blows.  The  dilatory  captain  of 
the  port,  in  his  gold-laced  uniform,  disturbed  from  his 
siesta,  comes  forth  at  length  from  the  shore  with  the  ship’s 
papers ; what  time  the  skipper,  tramping  his  quarter-deck, 
sends  forth  strange  Anglo-Saxon  oaths  whose  condemna- 
tion includes,  for  the  time  being,  everything  connected 
with  Spanish  America,  geographically  and  ethnologically ! 
The  rattle  of  the  engine-room  bell  sounds  “ stand  by  ” ; up 


8 The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

comes  the  iron-linked  cable  from  the  bottom  of  the  bay ; 
the  shore  recedes,  and  the  freshening  breeze  succeeds  the 
warm  air  of  the  land.  The  waves  lap  upon  the  prow 
and  hull  of  the  steamer  in  motion  again,  as  I turn  to 
contemplate  and  meditate. 

The  sea  is  always  a silent  and  mournful  watcher  of 
human  effort,  that  is  if  Nature  in  any  of  her  elements 
takes  any  note  of  humanity  at  all,  which  is  doubtful. 
The  long-drawn  moan  of  recurring  wave-swells  thrown 
off  in  monotonous  succession  from  the  steamer’s  prow 
seems  to  speak,  at  times,  of  the  inevitable  and  hopeless 
strife  and  work  of  man.  This  changeless  and  impression- 
less sea!  The  keels  of  a myriad  barques  have  ploughed 
it,  and  left  their  momentary  wake  thereon — for  as  long  as 
the  following  seagull  could  pursue  it  Here  the  keel  of 
Drake,  such  centuries  ago,  scurried  in  harryings  of  gold- 
laden galleons  ; and  gold,  and  galleons,  and  crew  have  left 
no  ripple  but  in  the  minds  of  men.  The  voice  of  the  sea 
seems  often  that  of  an  unfeeling  monster;  its  hollow  wave- 
echoes  upon  the  shore  seem  soulless,  its  briny  foam  a 
protest  flung  against  stable  matter  and  sentient  man! 

Yet  how  strange  a glamour  hangs  over  the  tales  of 
the  sea,  of  old ! What  fascination  enshrouds  the  old 
vessels  of  the  past ! Think  of  their  gleaming  sails  ; their 
trim  hulls,  as  they  came  up  over  the  edge  of  the  world  ; 
their  captains,  their  crews ; the  smells,  the  oaths,  the 
battling  with  wind  and  tide,  the  long  reaches  against 
billow  and  adverse  gale,  all  toward  some  distant  port, 
longed  for  until  reached,  and  left  again  with  rejoicing! 
The  poor  and  hard-worked  crew  with  their  miserable 
rations,  blistered  hands,  and  brutality  ; striving,  as  man 
will  ever  strive,  for  mirth  and  profit  Away,  away  they 
went ; on,  on  they  toiled,  beating  beneath  tropic  skies 
far  from  their  homes;  thrashing  through  seething  seas 
— for  what  ? For  a wretched  pittance  of  gain ! Then 
to  disperse,  or  go  down,  lost  and  forgotten  as  the  years 
roll  on,  buried  in  the  misty  halo  of  the  past,  leaving  no 
trace  upon  that  soulless  medium  whereon  they  lived  and 
moved  and  had  their  being.  And  the  silent  sea,  blue, 


Introduction 


9 


or  grey,  or  angry,  or  reposeful,  brims  full  and  impression- 
less as  then,  as  now,  and  as  shall  be  for  all  time ! 

Ha ! but  what  is  this  ? A long  Pacific  roller,  born 
in  mid-ocean,  or  on  the  shores  of  China  or  Australia, 
5,000  or  6,000  miles  away,  shakes  the  steamer  from  stem 
to  stern.  She  rises  to  it,  and  throws  a fringe  of  foam 
away  on  either  hand,  some  of  which  soars  upwards  on 
the  freshening  breeze  and  is  flung  into  my  face  sharply, 
and  I taste  the  brine  upon  my  lips.  The  sea  protests  ; 
she  is  not  soulless,  she  seems  to  say.  Rather,  she  bears 
us  on — as  she  bore  our  fathers,  and  shall  bear  our  sons — 
on  towards  new  horizons  of  hope  and  knowledge ; on  to 
fresh  fields  of  action  and  accomplishment ! 


CHAPTER  II 


THE  ANDES 

Heavenward  thrown,  crumpled,  folded,  ridged  and 
fractured,  with  gleaming  “ porcelain  ” gnomons  pointing 
to  the  sun ; shattered  strata  and  sheer  crevasse ; far 
terraces  and  grim  escarpments,  hung  over  with  filmy 
mist-veils,  and  robed  with  the  white  clothing  of  crystal- 
lised rains  and  mists ; the  birthplace  of  the  winds  and 
hails ; the  father  of  the  rivers  whose  floods  are  borne 
a thousand  leagues  away  — the  mighty  Cordillera  is ! 
From  north-west  to  south-east,  a wall  3,000  miles  in 
length,  dividing  the  Pacific  world  from  the  boundless 
empire  plains  of  Amazonas  and  the  east,  it  crouches, 
rears,  and  groans  upon  the  western  sea  - board  of  the 
Continent.  Kissing  the  cerulean  space  with  snowy  peaks, 
five  miles  above  the  level  of  the  ocean’s  ebb  and  flow, 
and  groaning  over  its  dun  and  desert  wastes  below,  with 
earthquake  grumbles,  the  ponderous  mass,  from  rock- 
ribbed  base  to  filmy  summit-edge,  where  matter  ends, 
keeps  its  eternal  vigil!  Mineral-loined,  and  girt  with 
silver,  gold,  and  cinnabar,  abides  this  mighty  banker  of 
the  sunset  world ! The  beautiful  Andes  ; the  terrible 
Andes;  the  life-giving  Andes;  the  death-dealing  Andes! 
For  the  Andes  are  of  many  moods,  and  whatever  change 
of  adjectives  the  traveller  may  ring,  he  will  fail  of  truly 
describing  them. 

When  the  delicate  tints  of  early  morning  shine  on 
the  crested  snow  away  on  either  hand  in  rarest  beauty, 
and  the  light  and  tonic  air  invigorates  both  man  and 
horse,  and  the  leagues  pass  swiftly  by,  there  is  joy  on 
the  face  of  Nature,  which  enters  into  the  traveller’s  being. 

10 


Snow-capped  Peaks  in  the  And 

Sketched  on  the  spot  by  the  Author. 


The  Andes 


11 


When  the  snow  clouds  gather  and  the  icy  breeze  and 
pelting  rain  beat  mercilessly  upon  him  throughout  an 
entire  day : night  approaches,  and  there  is  no  shelter  for 
rider  or  beast : then  does  the  weight  of  weariness  and 
melancholy  descend  upon  him.  Twelve  times  have  I 
crossed  these  summits,  and  rarely  did  the  snow,  and  sleet, 
and  hail,  and  rain,  and  other  cosmic  matters  fail  to  come 
out  of  the  horizon  what  time  I passed. 

But  the  early  morning  is  exceedingly  beautiful.  It  is 
inspiring  to  those  minds  open  to  such  influences.  The 
bright  sun  and  blue  sky,  the  glorious  light  and  shadow- 
on  the  tree  - filled  valleys  and  canyons  beneath  are 
enchanting  with  their  silent  and  uninhabited  panorama. 
The  white  mist-sea  is  far  below,  but  it  is  rising.  It  rolls 
against  the  grim  and  ancient  rock-escarpments  caressingly  ; 
wisps,  separated  from  the  main  bulk,  float  like  thin  white 
veils  in  horizontally-flung  lines  across  the  facades  of  the 
precipices,  or  move  slowly  upward,  impelled  by  some  faint 
air-current.  But  the  sun  is  getting  higher,  and  the  whole 
mist-sea  is  ascending  ; mark  how  it  engulfs  the  ridges 
and  peaks  with  its  appalling  crests  ! Huge  foam-billows 
menacingly  breast  the  hills ; they  rise  and  break  like 
sea-waves  against  the  obstruction.  The  milky  line  is 
sharply  defined  against  the  blue  sky  beyond — a moment, 
when  the  mist-sea  is  flung  upwards,  is  dispersed  in  a 
thousand  directions : fills  the  whole  horizon,  and  covers 
the  glowing  sun-ball.  A chill  creeps  over  all,  until,  faint, 
thin,  and  evaporated,  that  seemingly  irresistible  ocean  of 
unstable  vapour  has  vanished  in  accordance  with  the  laws 
it  obeys.  The  sun  emerges  again,  and  makes  glad  the 
faces  and  the  depths  of  the  frowning  Cordillera. 

There  is  nothing  more  remarkable  in  the  Andes  than 
these  mist  effects.  The  most  curious  and  weird  trans- 
formation scenes  take  place,  at  morning  and  at  evening. 
Now  the  sun  has  set.  It  still  tinges  the  western  sky 
with  its  beauteous  but  indescribable  tints.  The  palest 
saffron  fades  into  the  pearly  green  of  the  zenith,  and  the 
last  and  orange  rays,  calm  and  cold,  flash  faintly  and 
expiringly  upwards.  In  and  among  the  deep  canyons 


12 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


of  the  stern  and  purple-green  hills  below,  the  fleecy  cloud- 
masses  of  pearly  vapour  slowly  pour,  filling  them  with 
impalpable  lakes,  so  soft,  so  pure,  they  seem  the  essence 
of  the  elements,  nightly  spread  for  the  couch  of  some 
unseen  god-traveller.  No  eye  but  mine  beholds  these 
rare  stupendous  beauties.  My  Indians,  busied  over  their 
camp  fire,  do  not  note  them,  and  my  companions  doze 
within  the  tent.  Below,  wrapped  in  the  sombre  veil  of 
night,  are  those  steeps,  ways,  and  canyons  I have  passed, 
those  precipices  and  trails  I scaled,  and  traversed  yester- 
day, which  lead  from  the  far,  mysterious  Montana.  Now 
they  are  covered  with  the  fleecy  mist-masses,  which  some 
evening  breeze  is  urging  upwards.  Appalling  masses, 
which  break  over  dim,  distant  peaks  like  awful  billows. 
They  rise  slowly,  surely,  terribly,  as  if  to  engulf  me  even  on 
the  high  point  whereon  I stand.  But  night  is  at  hand,  and 
even  as  they  rise  they  are  covered  with  its  sleepy  pall. 
A single  and  glorious  jewelled  planet  has  dominated  the 
eastern  escarpment  and  gleams  softly  down  upon  me.  Rest! 

I have  said  that  the  Andes  is  the  father  of  Peru,  the 
origin  of  all  the  country  possesses,  and  this  fact  cannot 
fail  to  be  impressed  upon  the  traveller.  The  strong 
influence  which  topographical  conditions  exercise  upon 
a people  is  here  exemplified.  The  climate,  which  moulds 
to  so  considerable  an  extent  the  characteristics  of  races, 
is  governed  altogether  by  the  existence  of  the  Andes. 
The  sterile  and  rainless  region  of  the  coast  owes  its 
condition  largely  to  the  interposition  of  the  mountains 
between  the  easterly  winds  and  the  Pacific  Ocean.  The 
moisture,  instead  of  descending  upon  this  zone,  is  inter- 
cepted at  the  summit  and  forms  the  snow-cap,  and  gives 
rise  to  the  constant  rain-storms  of  those  altitudes.  Due 
to  this  circumstance  the  physical  characteristics  of  the 
Peruvians  who  inhabit  these  higher  regions  differ  from 
those  of  the  dwellers  on  the  coast,  as  elsewhere  described. 
These  differences  are  evident  not  only  in  physical,  but 
also  in  sentimental  matters,  and  Peru  is  still  practically 
two  countries  divided  from  each  other  by  the  vast  wall 
of  the  Andes. 


Inca  Ruim  tlOvl  tN|  M»« »ho««. 


The  Andes 


13 


The  natural  resources  of  the  country — and  they  are 
limitless  — are  due  to  the  Andes.  The  great  diversity 
and  extension  of  the  mineral  deposits,  such  as  iron,  coal, 
copper,  lead,  silver,  gold,  quicksilver  and  all  the  metals 
known  to  commerce,  are  a result  of  the  geological  changes 
which  have  taken  place  in  the  formation  of  the  chain. 
The  varying  temperatures  of  the  various  regions  of  the 
country  are  due  to  the  vast  differences  of  altitude 
occasioned  by  these  mountains,  and  which  give  rise  to 
the  existence  of  such  diversity  of  species  in  the  vegetable 
world.  On  the  barren  coast-zone  of  the  Pacific  side  life 
is  only  possible  from  the  cultivation  produced  in  the 
valleys  under  irrigation  from  the  streams  which  descend 
from  above,  so  that  as  far  as  their  water  supply  is  con- 
cerned the  Andes  have  in  the  first  instance  intercepted 
it  and  then  afforded  it. 

The  topographical  formation  and  the  structure  of  the 
Andes  is  remarkable  and  interesting.  The  system  consists 
principally  of  two  parallel  chains,  one  generally  known 
as  the  Occidental  or  coast  Cordillera,  the  other  as  the 
Oriental  Cordillera,  which  in  places  is  known  as  the 
“ white  ” Cordillera,  or  “ Cordillera  Blanca,”  due  to  its 
snow-cap.  These  two  ranges  are  joined  in  places  by 
nudos  or  “ knots,”  or  transverse  connections,  four  in 
number,  and  known  respectively  as  — the  knot  of  Vil- 
canota,  near  Cuzco ; the  knot  of  Cerro  de  Pasco,  the  knot 
of  Loja,  and  the  knot  of  Pasto : the  two  last  being  out  of 
Peru,  beyond  its  northern  boundary.  Between  these  con- 
nections exist  a series  of  longitudinal  valleys  or  basins 
of  immense  extent.  The  southernmost  of  these  is  the 
lake-basin  of  Titicaca,  bounded  on  the  north  by  Vilcanota, 
and  at  the  south  terminating  in  the  pampas  of  Bolivia ; 
next  in  the  series,  going  north  - westerly,  is  the  river- 
basin  of  the  Ucayali — that  great  waterway  which  at  its 
junction  with  the  Maranon  forms  the  mighty  Amazon. 
North  of  the  Cerro  de  Pasco  “knot”  are  such  basins  as 
that  of  the  valley  of  Huaylas,  and  the  upper  Maranon. 

Except  in  one  place  (Huarmarca),  the  traveller  cannot 
pass  the  Peruvian  Andes  at  a less  height  than  about 


14 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


13,000  or  14,000  feet  above  sea-level  ; for  the  passes  of 
the  Cordillera  reach  invariably  that  altitude.  Of  the  two 
railways  which  cross  the  summit,  that  of  the  Oroya,  or 
Central,  rises  to  15,642  feet;  and  that  of  the  Southern 
Railway,  beyond  Arequipa,  to  14,666  feet.  The  highest 
peaks  of  the  Coast  Cordillera  rise  to  16,500  feet,  but  the 
phenomenon  is  observed  that  their  summits  are  free  from 
perpetual  snow,  notwithstanding  that  they  are  above  the 
line  of  perpetual  snow  of  the  main  parallel  chain.  The 
highest  peaks  on  the  Cordillera  Blanca  ascend  to  more 
than  22,000  feet,  and  among  them  are  the  highest  in 
the  whole  of  America,  North  or  South.  Indeed,  one  of 
them — Sorata,  with  its  23,600  feet  altitude — is  stated  to 
be  the  third  highest  peak  on  the  globe.  I have  elsewhere 
described  some  of  the  snow-capped  ranges  and  peaks, 
some  of  which  1 have  ascended.  They  are  in  many  cases 
indescribably  beautiful  and  imposing,  and  their  imprint, 
perhaps,  never  fades  entirely  from  the  mind  of  the  traveller 
who  has  sojourned  among  them. 

Among  geologists  it  is  held  that  the  western,  or  Coast 
Cordillera,  is  the  oldest ; and  the  eastern  the  later  for- 
mation. The  whole  is  an  upheaval  of  the  plutonic 
rocks : granite,  porphyry,  diorite,  basalts,  etc.,  crowned  by 
enormous  areas  of  sedimentary  and  metamorphosed  rocks 
and  conglomerates,  as  limestones,  slates,  quartzites,  etc. 
In  some  places,  as,  for  instance,  around  Arequipa,  are  vast 
extensions  of  volcanic  tufas,  and  terrible  and  barren  wastes 
of  contorted  cUbris , without  water,  herbage,  or  life.  The 
railway  which  descends  from  the  Peruvian  and  Bolivian 
punas  or  plateau  of  the  Titicaca  basin  to  the  fertile 
valley  of  Arequipa,  winds  for  an  entire  day’s  travel,  with 
rapid  grades  and  sharp  curves,  among  these  appalling 
heaps  of  Nature’s  escoria  of  a bygone  age. 

So  broken  is  the  country,  and  so  steep  the  descent, 
that  the  trajectory  of  this  railway  is  remarkable,  and  the 
traveller  has  his  eyes  for  hours  upon  the  volcano  of  the 
Misti,  which  is  close  to  Arequipa,  but  which,  first  on  one 
side,  and  then  the  other,  of  his  line  of  direction,  seems 
almost  to  be  elusive,  and  to  recede  as  the  train  advances. 


The  Andes 


15 


As  to  the  Oroya  railway  the  altitude  is  dominated  by  a 
series  of  interminable  loops  and  zigzags  up  the  slopes, 
whereby  the  train,  travelling  alternately  in  opposite 
directions,  at  length  gains  the  summit  of  the  Cordillera. 

But  the  traveller  in  Peru  journeys  far  away,  generally, 
from  the  lines  of  the  railways.  His  road  from  the  sea- 
port, in  the  saddle,  lies  over  the  most  diverse  and  marked 
geological  formations,  and  as  the  coast-zone,  the  uplands, 
and  the  Cordillera  are  free  from  dense  vegetation,  gener- 
ally, these  changes  are  displayed  to  the  eye.  The 
enormous  areas,  at  the  higher  levels,  of  granite,  quartzite, 
slate,  and  limestone  are  the  birthplace  of  great  wealth 
in  metalliferous  minerals,  as  gold,  silver,  copper,  lead, 
etc.,  and  enclose  in  their  strata  innumerable  seams  of 
anthracite  and  other  classes  of  coal,  such  as  in  the  future 
will  form  one  of  the  country’s  most  valuable  assets.  I 
have  seen  coal  strata  of  many  feet  in  width  standing 
vertically  within  their  enclosing  rock  walls,  and  towering 
upwards  for  distances  of  thousands  of  feet.  No  Engineer 
who  has  travelled  in  Peru  can  fail  to  appreciate  the 
variety  and  extent  of  the  country’s  mineral  resources, 
and  all  this  prodigality  of  wealth  has  for  the  author  of 
its  being  this  vast  and  little-travelled  Cordillera. 

The  Andes,  like  all  great  and  portentous  matters, 
whether  physical  or  abstract,  dawns  slowly  upon  the 
observer’s  mind,  if  I may  use  the  term.  The  traveller, 
as  he  slowly  approaches  from  the  coast,  obtains  no  coup 
cPceil  whereby  he  might  dominate  its  beauty  and  extent 
as  a whole.  The  Queen  of  the  snow-summits  does  not 
so  easily  display  her  charms,  but  only  from  time  to  time 
permits  the  weary  horseman,  toiling  over  the  sunburnt 
plains,  glimpses  of  her  virgin  towers  above.  Between  the 
prosaic  hills  of  the  lower  altitudes  the  snow-capped  peaks 
at  times  appear,  so  white  and  dazzling  that  they  might 
be  close  beyond — an  hour’s  ride,  no  more.  But  nothing 
is  more  deceptive.  Ordinary  ideas  of  distance  are  set  at 
naught,  and  only  days  of  riding  will  bring  the  traveller 
up  to  them.  But  when  he  shall  have  braved  the  tempest 
and  the  steeps  ; when  his  slow  and  panting  beast,  soroche - 


16 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


stricken,  has  overcome  the  last  few  rising  steps  upon  the 
trail  that  tops  the  summit  of  the  western  range,  then 
as  the  dark  horizon  of  the  foreground  rocks  gives  place 
his  astonished  gaze  rests  on  that  glorious  range  of  white- 
clothed  sentinels  beyond.  There  they  mark  the  eras ; 
there  they  stand,  performing  their  silent  work  ; and  there, 
when  evening  falls,  it  tints  their  brows  with  orange  and 
with  carmine,  and  wraps  their  bases  in  the  purple  pall 
of  finished  day.  The  lurid  sun  has  set  upon  the  escarp- 
ments of  an  unfinished  world  ! 

Some  time  since  the  Jurassic  or  Silurian  ages  arose 
these  mighty  guardians  of  the  western  shore,  carrying 
some  ocean-bed  from  where  it  lay,  and  bore  it  upward 
three  miles  and  more  towards  the  clouds.  Strange 
creatures  of  the  deep : 

“ Dragons  of  the  prime,” 

which  had  their  being  within  its  ooze  in  those  long  ages 
past,  now  stand  in  rigid  schools  upon  the  stiffened  summits. 
Huge  ammonites  and  cephalopods,  whose  petrified  scrolls 
and  fossil  circles  catch  the  traveller’s  eye  as  his  weary  mule 
stumbles  over  the  limestone  strata ; and,  blurred  by  the 
eternal  pelting  rain,  and  loosened  from  the  stony  grasp  by 
frosts  and  sun,  they,  together  with  the  rock-ribbed  walls 
which  enclose  them,  arc  again  dissolving  into  particles : a 
phase  within  the  endless  sequences  of  Nature’s  work ; an 
accident  of  her  ceaseless  and  inexplicable  operations! 


Fossil  Ammonites  in  the  Andes  14,800  ft.  above  Sea-level. 
Sketched  on  the  spot  by  the  Author. 


CHAPTER  III 


PERUVIAN  TRAVEL 

WHAT,  it  may  be  asked,  are  the  objects  with  which 
travellers  would  traverse  these  hot  deserts,  these  high  and 
snow-capped  Cordilleras,  cross  and  ascend  these  wind- 
swept steppes  and  altiplanicies , or  penetrate  these  vast 
and  uninhabited  regions  of  the  Peruvian  and  Amazonian 
forests?  Some  well-defined  object  must  take  him  there, 
for  no  ordinary  tourist,  on  mild  distraction  bent,  is  likely 
to  brave  the  rigours  and  difficulties  which  at  every  turn 
present  themselves.  It  is  the  Engineer,  that  pioneer  of 
civilisation,  with  the  stimulus  of  his  scientific-commercial 
errand  ; the  explorer,  the  archaeologist,  the  botanist  who 
principally  have  travelled  through  these  fastnesses  and 
labyrinths.  The  hunter,  of  course,  finds  fairly  abundant 
quarry ; and  the  artist,  the  painter,  could  find  among  the 
snowy  beauties  and  the  azure  lakes  of  the  Cordillera,  the 
rare  and  marvellous  mist-effects,  and  the  wondrous  sunset 
skies,  material  such  as  might  immortalise  him. 

But  it  is  Nature  and  her  resources  that  will  be  the  object 
of  his  journey,  be  he  whom  he  may,  for  of  modern  man 
there  is  not  much  to  attract.  That  is,  there  is  no  flash 
and  glow  as  of  Eastern  worlds;  no  galleries,  statues,  or 
palaces  ; no  gardens  of  delight,  and  no  alluring  bowers  of 
pleasure.  Nature  is  in  a sombre  mood  in  this  her  vast 
workshop  of  the  Western  world ; and  even  at  times  it 
seems  that  she  is  offended,  as  if  the  place  were  not  yet 
prepared  for  man’s  habitation,  and  she  looked  upon  him 
as  an  interloper ! 


B 


18 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


Indeed,  it  has  sometimes  occurred  to  me,  as  I wearily 
approached  the  end  of  some  hard  day’s  ride,  that  Peru 
(as  also  other  parts  of  the  New  World)  is  still  in  the 
making:  not  yet  ready  for  man;  and  that  Nature  seems 
to  protest  in  that  her  laboratory  was  invaded  before  her 
handiwork  was  perfected. 

A barren  shore,  rainless  and  ugly  ; hot,  burning  plains ; 
narrow  V-shaped  valleys  where  a little  cultivation  struggles 
to  retain  a foothold.  Bleak  and  sterile  uplands  where  the 
dreaded  soroche  weakens  the  venturesome  traveller,  and 
appalling  peaks  crowned  with  unconquerable  snows  and 
endless  glaciers ! 

Nature  protests.  She  required  a short  span  of  some 
few  million  years  to  round  those  grim  escarpments ; to 
fill  in  those  valley  floors,  and  form  her  fertile  plains ; to 
lower  those  towering  Andean  crests,  and  let  the  Amazonian 
dews  over  to  form  a gentle  rain  upon  the  western  slopes : 
in  short,  to  put  her  finishing  touches  upon  it.  But  man, 
restless  and  exploring,  has  invaded  the  workshop,  and  now 
he  must  assist  in  the  work. 

To  return,  then,  to  the  traveller,  and  the  means  he 
must  employ  in  his  joumeyings.  The  railways  of  Peru, 
as  before  stated,  will  bear  him  across  the  Andes  at  two 
different  points,  distant  from  each  other  several  hundred 
miles.  But  his  impressions  of  travel  will  not  be  from 
these  means  of  conveyance,  fine  examples  of  the  work 
of  the  Engineer  as  they  are.  His  way  will  be  over  rough 
trails,  and  his  scat  will  be  the  saddle. 

As  regards  the  conditions  of  horse  and  mule  trans- 
portation in  the  interior,  the  experience  of  the  traveller 
resolves  itself  into  certain  recollections  which  crystallise 
themselves  into  aphorisms.  One  of  these  is  that,  “ The 
principal  food  of  saddle-animals  in  Peru  is  the  spur”! 
and  another  that,  “ If  there  existed  in  Peru  a Society  for 
the  prevention  of  cruelty  to  animals,  all  the  owners  of 
pack-mules  would  be  taken  to  prison  ” ! 

At  any  rate,  I have  found  these  two  notes  several  times 
inscribed  in  my  note-books,  although  they  need  not  be 
taken  too  literally.  It  is  not  that  the  people  are  inten- 


Peruvian  Travel 


19 


tionally  cruel,  but  they  are  not  rich,  generally,  and  the 
unfortunate  beasts  have  to  yield  up  their  last  iota  of 
service,  and  to  work  in  places  often  where  fodder  is  scarce 
and  expensive. 

On  looking  back  over  notes  made  during  long  journeys 
in  the  interior,  I find  expressions  of  opinion  which  certainly 
described  the  circumstances  of  the  moment,  but  which 
might  seem  harsh  when  applied  generally.  There  is  an 
anecdote  in  Peru  about  an  Englishman  who  happened  to 
go  out  into  the  street  after  lunch,  at  the  moment  when 
a policeman  was  killing  a mad  dog.  This  observant 
Briton,  according  to  the  story,  having  looked  at  his  watch, 
took  out  his  note-book  and  inscribed  therein  : 

“ In  Peru,  at  2 P.M.,  it  is  customary  for  the  police  to 
kill  dogs”! 

This  is  supposed  to  be  a warning  against  hasty  general- 
isations. 

Much  to  the  amusement  of  a Peruvian  friend,  at  whose 
house  I was  staying,  was  the  following  generalisation  of 
a similar  nature,  which  I read  him  from  my  note-book  : 

“ In  Peru,  Indian  women  who  sell  guinea-pigs,  steal 
penknives  ” ! 

For,  a few  days  previously,  a Chola  girl  had  entered  my 
room  to  sell  me  a cui , or  guinea-pig,  which  animals  form 
a considerable  article  of  food  in  little  interior  villages. 
I bought  the  cui , but  after  the  woman  had  left  I turned 
round  to  where  my  knife  had  been  lying  upon  the  table. 
It  was  gone  also  ! 

In  making  expeditions  through  the  country,  extend- 
ing over  weeks  or  months,  the  traveller  has  to  employ 
one  of  two  methods  : either  to  depend  upon  hiring  animals 
at  the  different  points,  or  purchasing  his  beasts  outright 
before  starting.  Employing  the  first,  it  is  advisable  to 
carry  letters  of  introduction  to  the  various  Gobernadores, 
or  petty  authorities,  of  the  towns  and  villages  en  route. 
In  this  manner  the  traveller  is  passed  on  from  one  point 
to  the  other,  often  with  much  delay,  due  to  the  difficulty 


20 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


of  getting  animals  even  under  the  autocratic  mandates 
of  the  gobernador. 

The  following  scene  generally  takes  place.  The 
traveller  arrives  and  presents  his  letter  to  the  gobernador, 
which  is  perhaps  from  the  functionary  of  the  last  town. 
It  is  duly  read,  and  the  gobernador  “places  his  house 
and  his  services  entirely  at  your  disposal." 

This  polite  formula  being  gone  through — and  it  is 
not  to  be  supposed  that  it  is  meaningless,  for  the 
gobernador  generally  does  all  in  his  power  to  further 
your  efforts,  especially  if  you  are  a foreigner  and  bent 
upon  some  scientific  or  exploratory  work — he  calls  the 
Alcaldes . These  individuals  are  generally  Indians;  in 

fact,  in  many  places  I have  visited  the  gobernador  has 
been  the  only  person  who  could  speak  Spanish.  The 
alcaldes  arrive.  They  carry,  as  insignia  of  their  office, 
white  or  black  wands,  generally  ornamented  with  silver 
mountings,  and  of  which  they  arc  very  proud.  A con- 
versation in  Qucchua  takes  place  between  them,  and 
they  depart,  and  the  gobernador  informs  me  that  horses 
will  be  forthcoming  to-morrow.  It  is  a mandate  which 
has  been  issued,  and  on  the  following  day  various  un- 
willing Indians  arrive,  ushered  in  by  the  alcaldes,  and 
leading  various  kinds  of  beasts  in  all  conditions  of  age 
or  decrepitude.  The  gobernador  eyes  them  wrathfully ; 
none  of  them  arc  fit  for  the  saddle.  Fresh  orders  are 
issued  to  the  alcaldes,  who  again  depart  accompanied  by 
the  Indians  and  their  sorry  brutes.  The  day  is  lost 
“ To-morrow,  Scftor,  without  fail,  there  will  be  animals,” 
the  gobernador  assures  me,  and  he  takes  me  in  to 
* breakfast.” 

It  would  not  arouse  the  appetite  of  the  reader  to 
describe  this  meal.  The  food  is  of  a primitive  nature, 
generally  consisting  of  soup  made  of  potatoes  and  dried 
cod-fish,  followed  by  boiled  meat  of  the  consistency  of 
india  - rubber.  Often  there  is  no  bread,  but  cancha , or 
toasted  maize,  is  eaten  as  a substitute. 

The  morrow  arrives  ; six  o’clock,  eight  o’clock  comes, 
for  the  impatient  traveller  has  risen  early  and  paces  up 


t 


Tvpical  Village  of  the  Andes. 


Peruvian  Travel 


21 


and  down,  cursing  the  dilatoriness  of  the  alcaldes — for 
there  is  no  sign  of  horse,  mule,  or  Indians.  Nine  o’clock, 
and  the  distance  to  the  next  point  is  fully  ten  leagues, 
over  broken  ground,  and  nine  hours’  ride. 

It  is  winter-time,  and  to  pass  the  Cordillera  the 
traveller  must  make  an  early  start  in  order  to  cross  the 
summit  if  he  would  escape  the  wrath  of  the  elements, 
which  is  poured  out  after  the  sun  passes  the  meridian. 
It  is  almost  useless  to  start  to-day ; and  as  this  fact 
impresses  itself  upon  the  traveller’s  mind,  the  alcaldes 
and  the  rain  arrive  at  the  same  moment,  the  former 
unaccompanied  by  any  specimen  of  the  equine  race 
whatever.  Another  day  is  to  be  lost ! 

The  rain  pours  down  in  sheets,  and  it  is  cold  and 
uncomfortable.  I go  in  and  sit  down  at  the  table,  a 
prey  to  disgust  and  weariness.  And  here  let  me  tran- 
scribe from  notes  made  at  the  time,  and  which  do  not 
exaggerate  in  any  respect. 

“ Down  each  side  of  the  street,  if  it  may  be  called 
such,  straggle  without  intent  of  order  the  miserable  hovels 
of  the  Indian  inhabitants;  without  doors  or  windows, 
except  that  the  former  are  represented  by  an  unclosed 
aperture.  It  has  been  raining  all  day — it  ever  rains  in 
the  Peruvian  Cordillera — and  there  is  mud  and  filth  every- 
where. The  Indian  women  pass  in  and  out  of  their 
wretched  domiciles,  heedless  that  their  skirts  drag  in  the 
black  mud  they  trample  upon.  They  are  themselves  un- 
washed and  uncombed,  stockingless  and  bootless,  yet  with 
a certain  pretentious  finery  about  their  extraordinarily- 
shaped  hats.  The  men,  who  have  passed  the  day  doing 
nothing  — their  usual  occupation  — congregate,  now  that 
evening  falls,  in  some  ‘ shop,’  if  the  building  or  hovel, 
with  its  petty  collection  of  bad  and  dear  articles,  brought 
at  vast  expense  of  carriage  from  coast  ports,  may  be 
described  as  such.  The  article  principally  dealt  in  seems 
to  be  alcohol.  An  Indian  woman,  old,  wrinkled,  and 
filthy,  has  just  entered  the  shop  of  the  gobernador, 
where  I am,  to  purchase  some  of  the  fiery  liquid.  Large 
quantities  of  this  alcohol,  which  is  termed  chacta , and 
of  40  degrees  of  strength,  is  consumed  daily  and  nightly 
by  the  Indians  of  both  sexes.  They  are  brutalised  with 
its  effects  ; they  are  filthy,  bedraggled,  cold,  wet,  ignorant 


22 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


— perhaps  the  awful  stuff  brings  them  some  surcease ; 
although  I doubt  if  they  possess  the  faculty  of  comparison, 
and  are  aware  of  their  condition.” 

I have  been  waiting  all  day,  two  days,  for  a beast  of 
some  kind : the  means  of  escape  from  this  place.  Money 
has  no  value  here,  and  although  there  are  both  mules 
and  horses  about,  none  of  these  ignorant  and  besotted 
citizens  will  hire.  They  are  apathetic ; they  are  morally 
defunct.  But  as  I write  I receive  notice  of  the  arrival  of 
a horse,  produced  by  repeated  orders  of  the  gobernador. 
1 examine  it  It  consists,  like  those  of  the  previous  day, 
of  a framework  of  bones,  with  an  awful  patch  of  sores 
where  the  flesh  upon  the  backbone  should  be.  It  would 
be  kind  of  me  to  end  its  days  with  a ball  from  my 
revolver.  The  gobernador  again  appears,  and  still  counsels 
patience,  for  I threaten  to  leave  the  place  on  foot  and  to 
report  to  the  Government,  from  whom  I have  brought  a 
circular  letter  of  recommendation. 

The  evening  closes  in,  and  various  individuals  arrive, 
having  heard  of  the  presence  of  an  Engineer,  bringing 
samples  of  gold  and  copper  and  other  ores  belonging 
to  mines  of  which  they  state  they  are  the  owners,  and 
assuring  me  that  untold  wealth  awaits  me  if  I will  visit 
them.  But  nothing  can  arouse  me  from  the  attack  of 
spleen  which  has  come  upon  me ; and  informing  them 
of  this  fact,  I seek  my  cot  and  turn  in. 

But  salvation  is  at  hand  when  least  expected.  In 
the  early  hours  of  the  morning — it  is  still  dark — I am 
awakened  by  the  tramping  of  animals,  and  my  boy 
informs  me  that  two  excellent  mules  have  arrived  in 
charge  of  an  alcalde,  who  has,  by  fair  means  or  foul, 
obtained  them  from  the  owner.  I turn  over  peacefully 
for  another  sleep,  but  am  soon  afterwards  awakened 
again  by  further  tramping.  A suspicion  flashes  across 
me — the  result  of  other  experiences  of  a similar  nature — 
and  I arise  hastily  and  go  out  in  my  pyjamas.  It  was 
well  I did  so,  for  the  owner  of  the  mules  has  arrived 
and  is  stealthily  endeavouring  to  drive  them  away  again. 


Peruvian  Travel 


23 


Patience  has  been  one  of  the  virtues,  but  now  “ battle 
and  murder”  seem  to  acquire  that  quality,  and  the  dire 
threats  I use  and  the  language  in  which  they  are  expressed 
are  such  as  it  would  be  impossible  to  inscribe  within  these 
faithful  chronicles  ; but  they  are  effective,  and  the  owner 
of  the  animals  departs,  satisfied  in  a measure  that  it  is 
a foreigner  who  has  taken  charge  of  his  property.  He 
feels  more  assured  of  his  pay ! 

But  “ the  day  dawns ; the  shadows  have  fled  away.” 
I am  in  the  saddle,  and  the  beast  beneath  me  is  a good 
one  with  a comfortable  pace.  Have  you  ever  felt  that 
species  of  contentment,  good  reader,  when  all  your  worldly 
belongings  are  packed  securely  upon  two  pack-mules  who 
ascend  the  road  in  front  of  you?  Your  arriero  cracks  his 
whip  and  whistles  cheerily  to  his  beasts.  The  air  is  fresh 
and  exhilarating,  and  the  early  sun  gleams  upon  wet 
herbage  and  the  silver  streamlets  that  rush  downwards 
through  the  pebbles.  Before  you  is  the  open  country, 
and  the  exhilaration  of  treading  terra  incognita  fills  your 
veins. 

As  before  insinuated,  you  may  purchase  your  beasts 
at  the  outset  of  your  journey ; and  it  is  often  much 
better  to  do  so,  for  you  are  then  always  sure  of  them,  and 
know  their  quality  and  powers.  Also,  if  you  have  not  been 
too  heavily  defrauded  in  their  purchase,  you  can  generally 
sell  them  again  at  little  less  than  what  they  cost  you. 

The  next  difficulty  with  which  the  traveller  has  to 
contend  is  that  of  obtaining  fodder : that  is,  in  the  higher 
regions ; for  the  alfalfa,  which  is  (apart  from  the  spur) 
the  principal  food  of  the  animals,  does  not  grow  above 
an  altitude  of  about  12,000  feet. 

Peru  is  a country  which  has  the  highest  inhabited 
places  on  the  globe.  What  would  be  thought  in  England, 
for  example,  of  extensive  mining  operations  at  an  alti- 
tude of  15,000  or  17,000  feet  above  sea-level;  higher  than 
the  summit  of  Mont  Blanc?  Nor  is  it  to  be  supposed 
that  at  such  altitudes  the  climate  is  unbearably  rigorous. 
Stoves  are  almost  unknown  in  the  houses,  and  custom 
renders  the  inhabitants  proof  against  the  cold. 


24 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


In  one  of  the  famous  auriferous  regions  of  the  south 
of  Peru,  which  I speak  of  elsewhere,  “hydraulic”  mines 
are  working  at  an  altitude  of  15,500  feet  above  sea-level; 
but,  notwithstanding  this,  the  thermometer  marks  only 
from  410  to  50°  Fahr.  in  summer,  and  a minimum  of  1 ic  to 
1 40  in  winter.  Comparing  this  with  the  great  ranges 
of  temperature  of  North  America,  where  the  thermometer 
descends  below  zero,  it  will  be  seen  that  the  climate  is 
rather  remarkable.  At  another  point  in  the  more  northern 
part  of  Peru,  a productive  mine  is  being  worked  above 
the  line  of  perpetual  snow,  at  nearly  17,000  feet;  the 
main  tunnel  of  this  mine  pierces  the  snow  and  ice-cap 
in  order  to  reach  the  ore -body.  In  these  places  the 
only  fodder  obtainable  is  barley,  in  grain,  or  straw,  which 
is  grown  at  a lesser  elevation,  but  which  produces  no 
grain  within  the  husks. 

Even  in  those  places  where  alfalfa  is  produced,  it  often 
happens  that  the  owners  will  not  sell.  It  may  be  that 
they  have  only  sufficient  in  the  fields  for  their  own  beasts, 
or  that  they  will  not  sell  simply  out  of  pure  “ cussedness,” 
to  use  an  Americanism.  For  the  first  instinct  of  the 
Chacareroy  or  small  landholder,  is  to  reply  in  the  negative 
to  everything  that  is  asked  him.  This  is  also  the  prin- 
cipal characteristic  of  the  Indians.  The  stereotyped  reply 
to  all  questions,  at  first,  is  “ No  hay,  Seflor''  (“There  is 
none,  Sir”).  (Pronounced  “No  Aye.”) 

This  has  often  been  dwelt  upon  in  books  treating  of 
travel  in  South  America,  but  loses  nothing  by  being 
repeated.  The  weary  traveller  arrives  late  at  some  small 
group  of  huts,  trusting  to  buy  at  least  something  of 
sustenance  for  himself,  his  men,  and  his  beasts.  He  rides 
up  to  the  door,  and  after  half  a dozen  wretched  dogs 
have  been  induced  to  quiet  their  ferocious  altercations, 
the  Scflora  of  the  place  is  interrogated  : 

“ Have  you  any  alfalfa  ? ” “ No  hay%  Sefior." 

“ Any  barley  ? ” “ No  hay , S eft  or? 

“ Any  chickens  ? ” “ No  hayt  Seflor." 

“ Eggs  ? ” “ No  hay,  Sefior." 

“ Meat  ? " “ No  hay}  Seflor And  so  on,  ad  nauseam. 


Peruvian  Travel 


25 


In  these  places  there  often  exist  thieves  who  steal 
horses  or  mules  at  night,  and  experience  has  taught  me 
to  finish  my  list  of  interrogations  with  one  relating  to 
that  matter. 

“Are  there  ladrones  (robbers)  here?”  To  which 
generally  she  replies:  “ Si  hay,  Sehor ” (“Yes,  there 
are  ”),  adding  that  it  is  advisable  to  vigilar  the  animals 
all  night. 

As  will  be  imagined,  the  sum  total  of  the  informa- 
tion extracted  is  not  comforting,  but  the  experienced 
traveller  knows  that  conditions  are  not  necessarily  so 
black  as  have  appeared.  At  the  termination  of  the 
conversation,  my  method  of  procedure  has  been  to  dis- 
mount and  light  a cigarette,  taking  care  to  give  one 
all  round  to  the  occupants  of  the  place.  By  this  time 
they  have  been  able  to  see  that  it  is  a buena  persona 
who  is  with  them ; that  there  are  no  soldiers.  Also, 
my  men  have  at  once  entered  into  conversation  ; con- 
fidence is  inspired,  and  ere  long,  aided  by  a few  small 
coins  paid  in  advance,  alfalfa,  chicken,  eggs,  and  whatever 
else  the  place  may  contain,  are  forthcoming. 

I have  always  endeavoured  to  leave  these  poor  people 
more  contented  when  I left  than  when  I arrived.  I have 
tried  to  remove  a little  of  their  desconfianza , representing 
to  them  that  an  ingles  always  pays  for  what  he  takes. 
The  Englishman  who  travels  has  often  to  bear  the  weight 
of  his  country’s  errors ; it  is  just  that  he  should  at  times 
also  shoulder  her  virtues ! 

Of  course,  it  must  be  understood  that  these  remarks 
refer  to  small,  remote  places.  At  any  town  where  there 
are  people  of  a higher  class,  such  incidents  do  not  occur, 
and  hospitality  is  pressed  upon  one,  and  pleasant  recollec- 
tions of  these  people  mingle  equally  in  the  mind  of  the 
traveller  with  the  difficulties  he  has  encountered. 

As  before  intimated,  the  best  method  of  procedure 
for  an  extended  expedition  is  to  purchase  both  saddle  and 
pack  animals.  Good  mules  cost  from  jQ 20  upwards,  and 
fair  horses  somewhat  less.  Having  done  this  the  traveller 
will  have  eliminated  the  principal  source  of  delay  and 


26 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


trouble.  He  will,  of  course,  under  no  circumstances, 
travel  without  his  own  saddle  and  other  equipment ; that 
goes  without  saying. 

In  addition  to  this,  and  in  order  to  render  oneself 
independent  as  much  as  possible  of  the  people  of  the 
No  hay  stamp,  a tent  should  be  taken,  and  a certain 
amount  of  provisions.  I have  followed  this  system  with 
much  comfort  Whenever  the  night  overtook  me  I 
had  the  tent  planted  ; there  was  no  straining  to  reach 
stated  stopping  - places,  and  the  only  absolute  require- 
ments were  forage  and  water.  As  regards  these,  except 
on  the  coast  deserts,  there  is  generally  grass,  which  forms 
good  feed  for  the  animals  for  a while ; and  by  taking 
the  precaution  to  give  them  alfalfa  or  barley  when  it  is 
possible,  the  traveller  may  journey,  in  this  way,  with 
facility.  As  to  water,  this  exists  everywhere,  except  in 
places  on  the  coast -zone — the  rainless  region;  and  the 
camp  must  be  pitched  where  water  is.  Even  there, 
distances  arc  comparatively  short,  or  easily  comprised 
within  one  day’s  journey. 

The  equipment  and  personnel  which  I have  carried 
on  some  of  my  expeditions  was  as  follows : 

Imprimis , myself,  mounted  upon  the  best  mule  I have 
been  able  to  obtain.  Mules  are  preferable,  especially 
when  travelling  in  the  Cordillera  region  and  uplands. 
They  stand  the  hardships  of  precarious  fodder  and  rough 
weather  better  than  horses  ; they  are  more  sure-footed — 
a desirable  quality  on  precipitous  trails — and  they  do 
not  suffer  nearly  as  much  from  the  soroche , due  to 
the  altitude.  As  regards  saddles,  there  are  none  better 
or  more  comfortable  for  these  journeys  than  those  made 
in  Lima.  An  English  saddle  should  never  be  used  ; it  is 
quite  unsuitable. 

Secondly,  the  arriero , or  mule  driver,  whose  duty  it  is 
to  keep  his  animals  going  as  fast  as  time  requires,  or 
circumstances  permit.  Two  pack-mules  have  generally 
been  sufficient,  and  they  carry  200  to  300  lbs.  each. 
Their  load  consists  of  the  tent,  my  folding  - cot  and 
blankets,  the  cooking  utensils  and  the  store  of  provisions, 


Peruvian  Travel 


27 


and  a small  portmanteau  with  my  clothes  and  the  few 
necessary  books  and  other  articles.  On  return  journeys 
mineral  samples  have  brought  the  load  up  to  its  maximum, 
or  required  the  hiring  of  an  additional  animal. 

Thirdly,  my  “ boy,”  who  may  or  may  not  be  a youth, 
but  whose  duties  consist  in  doing  everything  that  may 
be  necessary.  Often  I added  a native  miner,  if  the 
expedition  was  a prospecting  one. 

Both  men  are  generally  mounted,  although  in  some 
places  the  Indian  arrieros  go  on  foot.  This,  however, 
means  slower  movement,  as  the  march  of  the  party  is 
regulated  by  the  pace  of  its  slowest  member.  There 
are,  therefore,  at  least  five  animals  to  secure  fodder  for ; 
and  this  question  of  fodder  is  the  first  one  that  presents 
and  has  to  be  dealt  with. 

On  arriving  at  a predetermined  point  at  the  close  of 
day,  if  the  inhabitants  are  absolutely  and  obdurately 
of  the  No  hay  type,  which  I have  previously  described  ; 
or  if,  as  often  happens,  there  is  no  fodder  grown  at  all 
in  the  place,  the  animals  must  be  turned  out  on  to  the 
natural  pasture.  This  is  sometimes  good,  and  at  others 
exceedingly  poor  and  sparse,  and  the  animals  suffer 
accordingly.  They  must  be  hobbled,  or  tied  by  the 
“ hands,”  as  in  Spanish  the  fore  - feet  of  beasts  are 
termed.  If  there  are  thieves  about,  watch  must  be 
kept  all  night  ; the  men  taking  turns  at  doing  this. 

In  some  situations  the  amiable  and  diplomatic  method 
before  described  for  securing  sustenance  for  man  and 
beast  are  useless,  and  the  traveller  must  resort  to  more 
resolute  methods.  During  one  journey  in  the  interior 
I almost  starved,  as  the  people  would  absolutely  give 
nothing ; and  I was  obliged  to  burst  open  the  door  of 
a hut  and  forcibly  appropriate  a basket  of  eggs,  leaving 
its  value  in  the  hands  of  its  protesting  owner. 

As  regards  habitation  on  these  journeyings  the  tent 
is  generally  sufficient,  although  in  the  rainy  season,  when 
it  is  expected  to  remain  some  days  at  a certain  given 
point,  it  is  advisable  to  hire  an  empty  house,  and  usually 
such  is  to  be  found  in  the  villages. 


28 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


In  a village  on  the  upper  Maranon  I stayed  for  some 
weeks  in  a thatched  adobe  house  on  the  banks  of  the 
river,  and  retain  certain  recollections  of  my  “tenancy/’ 
I hired  the  place  at  the  not  exorbitant  rental  of  twenty 
cents  per  week,  which  amount  I handed  to  the  owner  on 
receiving  the  key.  I had  just  had  it  well  swept  out, 
my  baggage  installed  and  travelling  cot  put  up,  and  was 
enjoying  a cigarette  in  full  possession  of  the  premises, 
when  a wrathful  Seiiora  appeared,  asking  my  servant  by 
what  right  I was  there.  As  he  seemed  to  be  treating 
her  with  scant  ceremony  I bid  him  explain,  when  it 
transpired  that  she  laid  claim  to  the  ownership  of  the 
place,  saying  that  the  person  to  whom  I paid  the  rent 
was  an  impostor,  who  had  absolutely  no  right  to  the 
house  at  all.  Wear y,  at  length,  of  the  voluble  arguments 
of  the  woman,  who  went  back  into  the  remote  history 
of  the  village  to  prove  her  claim,  I hit  upon  the  simple 
method  of  getting  rid  of  her  by  paying  her  the  amount 
of  the  rent,  the  disputed  twenty  cents  in  full,  but  I took 
the  precaution  to  obtain  a receipt  this  time.  The  dame 
having  departed  with  profuse  thanks  for  my  generosity, 
as  she  styled  it,  I again  lay  back  in  my  cot,  and  was  just 
falling  into  a siesta,  lulled  by  the  murmur  of  the  river 
and  the  midday  drone  of  insects  outside  the  open  door, 
when  more  wrathful  voices  aroused  me.  Behold ! three 
other  women  and  a man  were  laying  claim  to  the  house 
and  its  corresponding  rent,  and  were  only  prevented  from 
entering  by  the  knowledge  that  the  patron  was  asleep 
within,  as  my  men  informed  them,  and  sleep  is  much 
respected  among  these  people. 

This  was  really  too  much,  and  I sent  my  boy  for  the 
Gobcrnador.  “ Ah  ! indios%  picaros , brut  os ! ” exclaimed 
this  worthy,  when  he  had  been  informed  of  the  matter ; 
and  he  threatened  to  have  all  the  rival  claimants  forth- 
with reduced  to  prison.  After  much  sifting  of  evidence, 
however,  it  appeared  that  the  last  claimants,  the  man 
and  his  three  cousins,  held  probably  the  most  likely 
right  to  title ; and  to  get  rid  of  the  whole  affair  I again 
produced  a twenty-cent  coin,  and  deposited  it  temporarily 


The  Upper  Maranon:  Village  of  Tantamayo. 


Peruvian  Travel 


29 


in  the  keeping  of  the  Gobernador,  until  such  time  as  a 
judicial  decision  on  his  part  should  be  arrived  at.  Such 
is  the  tricky  nature  of  these  poor  people. 

Like  most  people  of  whatever  society  or  status,  these 
Peruvian  natives  are  much  won  over  by  ordinary  justice. 
It  is  the  case  a good  deal  among  the  petty  authorities, 
and  sometimes  of  the  landholders,  to  employ  the  Cholos, 
and  fail  to  remunerate  them  according  to  contract. 
From  this,  largely,  arises  their  lack  of  confidence,  and 
unwillingness  to  work.  On  several  occasions,  when  I 
have  paid  them  for  work  done,  at  the  close  of  the  day, 
I have  heard  them  informing  each  other  with  surprise 
that  they  have  been  paid  ; their  wages,  in  current  silver 
coin,  had  positively  been  handed  to  them,  without  rebate, 
fines,  or  procrastination.  “ Look  ! ” they  have  exclaimed. 
“ This  gentleman  has  paid  us  ; here  is  the  money  ! ” And 
the  next  day,  instead  of  a scarcity  of  labour,  I found  a 
surplus. 

As  regards  their  ideas  of  honesty,  I do  not  think  they 
consider  it  wrong  to  steal,  only  to  be  found  out.  They 
are  generally  timid,  even  in  their  thefts,  as  the  following 
will  show.  I left  the  house  one  morning  with  the  door 
open,  and  with  four  hundred  silver  sols,  or  dollars,  on  the 
table  in  four  piles  of  one  hundred  each.  On  returning,  I 
observed  a Cholo  emerging  from  the  house,  and  seeing 
me,  he  fled  away.  My  suspicions  were  aroused,  and 
counting  the  money,  I found  four  dollars  missing,  one 
from  the  top  of  each  pile!  The  man  might  as  easily 
have  taken  the  whole  amount,  but  he  feared  to  do  so. 

This  particular  house  affords  me  yet  another  incident. 
Wishing  to  foment  habits  of  cleanliness  and  decency 
among  my  men,  I had,  upon  leaving,  given  orders  to 
have  the  place  thoroughly  swept  out  and  cleared  of  the 
litter  of  departure  of  my  men  and  baggage,  and  went 
on  ahead.  When  the  arriero  and  my  servant  joined  me 
I enquired  if  my  instructions  had  been  carried  out,  and 
saw  by  their  answers  that  such  had  not  been  the  case. 
Forthwith  I ordered  a right-about-turn — we  were  already 
some  fifteen  minutes  on  our  journey — and  the  village 


30 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


was  shortly  astonished  at  our  rearrival.  I set  the  men 
to  work,  and  had  the  place  left  in  thorough  order  in  less 
than  half  an  hour,  whilst  the  villagers  crowded  around 
wonderingly.  “ Know,”  I said  grandiloquently,  as  having 
mounted  again  1 turned  and  addressed  them,  “ that 
an  Englishman  always  leaves  a house  cleaner  when  he 
goes  away  than  when  he  entered  it ! ” 


CHAPTER  IV 


PERUVIAN  TRAVEL — Continued 

On  one  of  my  expeditions  I formed  a camp  in  the 
mountains  in  order  to  make  a thorough  examination  of 
a group  of  gold  mines,  which  had  been  worked  centuries 
ago,  and  abandoned. 

There  is  much  of  pleasure  in  this  temporary  dwelling 
entirely  away  from  the  haunts  of  man.  Imagine  this 
canvas  habitation,  kind  reader,  the  surrounding  amphi- 
theatre of  rocks  and  sparse  vegetation  ; the  blue  sky 
overhead ; the  boundless  horizon  where  cloud  - shadows 
drift  away  on  the  edge  of  the  world.  And  past  the 
door  of  your  tent  flows  the  rippling  stream,  the  author 
of  being  of  the  patch  of  vegetation  on  the  valley  floor, 
and  the  fountain  wherein  you,  your  attendants,  and  your 
beasts  thankfully  slake  your  noonday  thirst.  At  night 
the  breeze  whispers  past,  and  only  the  champing  of  the 
mules,  tethered  near  by,  breaks  the  silence. 

But  Nature  is  not  always  inspiring.  Sometimes  she 
is  unlovely.  Sunset  and  sunrise,  especially  in  tropical 
and  semi-tropical  countries,  are  her  most  attractive  occa- 
sions. Bare,  rocky  slopes  of  useless  debris  and  sterile 
plains  take  on  an  air  of  mystery  and  beauty  when  the 
shadows  cast  by  the  coming  or  departing  orb  are  pro- 
jected thereover.  But,  sunless,  in  the  tropics,  Nature  is 
depressing. 

I took  the  bridle  off  my  mule  to  allow  the  animal  to 
refresh  itself  on  the  scanty  herbage,  one  day,  whilst  I 
waited  for  my  man,  whom  I had  despatched  to  a village 
near  by  on  some  errand.  I had  left  early  in  the  morning, 
and  the  camp  was  some  five  leagues  away.  Mounting  a 

31 


32 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


small  eminence  whence  the  landscape  could  be  observed, 
1 fell  into  a reverie,  which,  later,  cost  me  dear. 

Below  me  stretched  the  landscape,  now  grim  and 
grey  under  a lowering  and  leaden-coloured  sky,  whilst 
some  straggling  and  miserable  vegetation  lay  near  the 
base  of  the  bare,  rocky  hills.  Some  evidences  of  man’s 
habitation,  several  wretched  and  poverty-stricken  chozas , 
or  Indian  huts,  were  clustered  there,  surrounded  by  dirt, 
rags,  and  evil  odours,  which  latter  ascended  even  to  where 
I was,  for  primitive  man  is  a dirty  being,  and  defiles  the 
land  for  a remarkably  large  radius  around  him.  The 
whole  ensemble  combined  to  produce  in  me  a sense  of 
depression,  such  as  is  experienced  at  times  by  those  fond 
of  Nature  and  her  moods.  Not  a gleam  of  radiance 
touched  with  softening  beam  the  far  rocky  fastnesses,  and 
scarcely  a change  of  colour  between  cast  and  west  indi- 
cated where  the  sun  was  deserting  so  uninviting  a scene, 
^f«>r  evening  was  approaching.  The  distant  range,  in  its 
uniform  garb  of  grey,  and  the  middle  distance  of  scarcely 
a mellower  tint,  bore  out  the  harmony  of  monotony  which 
the  treeless  waste  and  vcrdurelcss  foreground  completed. 
The  face  of  Nature  was  overcast.  Beautiful  when  gay, 
grand  when  angry,  she,  sullen  and  dispirited,  casts  her 
mood  upon  the  mind  of  man.  Her  joyless  landscape, 
the  poetry  of  its  colour  banished,  weighs  upon  his  heart, 
and  her  sad  firmament  sometimes  saddens  his  spirit 
The  leaden  pall  of  the  heavens  exposed  no  edge  of  silver, 
and  gave  no  promise  for  the  morrow  by  some  parting 
glow,  nor  showed  a break  in  its  opaque  rigidity  indicative 
of  a bright  beyond. 

At  such  moments  the  mind  sometimes  questions  the 
wherefore  of  existence,  and  indulges  the  vain  speculation 
of  reason  as  to  the  justice  of  Nature  and  Circumstance. 
What  is  the  object  of  those  miserable  specimens  of  human- 
kind below  in  their  wretched  huts?  Why  do  they  re- 
produce their  kind ; dirty,  ignorant,  of  brutish  intellect, 
and  which,  if  the  elements  were  not  sometimes  tempered 
to  them,  would  share  the  same  fate  of  so  much  of  Nature’s 
progeny,  to  which  she  gives  birth  only  to  destroy  ? What 


Peruvian  Travel 


33 


are  they  for  : to  be  “ cast  as  rubbish  to  the  void  ” ? And 
even  their  observer,  with  his  mere  accident  of  a heavier 
brain,  and  all  his  kind — Man — 

“ Her  last  work,  who  seemed  so  fair, 

Such  splendid  purpose  in  his  eyes. 

Who  rolled  the  psalm  to  wintry  skies, 

And  built  him  fanes  of  fruitless  prayer  ” ! 

Enough ! This  would  not  do  at  all.  I shook  myself 
mentally,  and  arose.  Where  was  my  man  ? We  must 
return  to  camp. 

1 descended  the  hill,  intending  to  mount  and  ride 
homewards — a gallop  would  banish  the  fit  of  depression. 
Rounding  the  base  of  the  hill,  I came  towards  the  rock 
around  which  I had  made  fast  the  halter.  The  mule  was 
gone ! Gone  during  my  vain  reverie. 

Here  was  a pretty  state  of  things.  Five  leagues,  and 
night  at  hand ! I rapidly  remounted  the  hill  and  gazed# 
towards  the  plain,  hoping  to  see  the  animal  in  the  gather- 
ing dusk,  but  nothing  rewarded  my  search.  I took  up 
the  carbine  I had  removed  from  the  holster,  from  the 
rock  against  which  it  leaned,  and  approached  the  Indian 
huts.  “ Buenas  tardes  ” ( “ Good  afternoon  ” ),  I said  to  the 
Chola  woman,  mistress  of  that  unlovely  abode,  and  her 
brood  of  Indian  children.  “Have  you  seen  my  mule?” 
They  had  not.  “ Where  is  your  man  ? ” I continued,  for 
there  was  the  possibility  that  the  presiding  male  genius 
of  the  place  had  stolen  the  animal.  She  explained  in 
such  a way  as  showed  me  that  these  fears  were  un- 
founded, looking  fearfully  the  while  at  the  stranger  and 
his  shouldered  carbine.  But  I reassured  her ; gave  her  a 
small  silver  coin,  and  told  her  (she  understood  Spanish) 
what  had  occurred,  munched  a piece  of  cheese  made  of 
goat’s  milk  which  she  offered,  and,  finding  there  was  no 
guide  who  could  conduct  me  across  the  mountain  spur — 
which  would  greatly  shorten  the  distance  to  camp — I 
“ girded  up  my  loins,”  and  set  forth  alone,  to  cross  it, 
confident  of  finding  the  way. 

The  quebrada , as  in  Peruvian-Spanish  are  termed  the 

C 


34 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


V-shaped  valleys  which  descend  from  or  bisect  the  hills, 
and  which  in  Mexico  are  termed  arrayos,  had  for  its 
floor  a broad  stream  of  dry  sand  deposited  by  the 
torrent  which  came  down  in  times  of  rain,  and  which 
had  filled  up  the  interstices  in  the  rocks,  forming  an 
easy  path  upwards,  along  which  a motor-car  might 
almost  have  ascended.  But  I was  far  away  from  those 
somewhat  oppressive  engines  of  modern  locomotion! 

Great  ledges  of  quartz,  polished  by  the  action  of  the 
sand  and  water  until  they  shone  as  if  artificially  wrought, 
the  matrix  in  places  of  gleaming  pyrites  and  other 
minerals,  crossed  the  torrent  way  at  different  places ; 
and  huge  boulders  of  the  same  material,  rounded  by 
the  same  agency,  protruded  here  and  there  their  glossy 
spheres  from  the  bed,  whilst  the  sand  itself,  left  by  the 
water,  lay  flat  and  level  as  a billiard  table,  except  that 
it  inclined  upwards  in  a gentle  plane.  On  either  hand 
grim  caverns  opened  in  the  wall  of  the  canyon  as  I 
ascended,  and  far  above,  to  where  they  were  lost  in  the 
vapour  of  the  gathering  night,  arose  the  mighty  peaks 
of  the  secondary  Andean  chain. 

On,  on  I went,  up  this  untrodden  way.  Weird  rock- 
forms,  time  - sculptured  porphyry  spectres,  flanked  the 
turns  of  this  great  stairway ; and  giant  cacti,  drawing 
their  scanty  nourishment  from  the  crevices,  stretched  their 
skinny  arms  athwart  the  path  as  if  in  thorny  embrace 
toward  the  unwary.  Sheer  precipices,  quarried  by  the 
elements,  towered  upwards,  like  huge  tablets  upon  whose 
surface  some  giant  chisel  might  inscribe.  Bastions  and 
turrets,  of  Nature’s  fortifications,  presented  themselves 
at  every  turn  ; and  not  of  Nature  alone,  for  the  ruins 
of  prehistoric  fortresses,  the  dwellings  of  some  bygone 
Inca  or  Quechua  tribe,  frowned  down  upon  the  way  in 
stern  abandonment.  Dark  passages  of  entering  torrent- 
beds,  faintly  discernible  through  the  gloom,  branched 
from  the  main  descent,  leading,  perchance,  to  mysterious 
spaces  where  the  genii  of  night  might  dwell,  or  the  spirits 
of  those  ancient  inhabitants  have  habitation.  Huge  store- 
houses, rock-walled  and  grim,  were  there,  where  perchance 


Peruvian  Travel 


35 


imprisoned  tempests  dwelt — vast  chambers  such  as  dreams 
present,  echoless,  soundless,  and  alone.  Cathedral  towers 
and  sculptured  domes  of  Nature’s  building,  against  whose 
far  facades  the  night-mists  rolled  dreamily,  audience  of 
the  music  of  silence,  the  choir  of  the  invisible;  and 
pillars  and  buttresses,  isolated  and  fantastic,  the  seeming 
remnant  of  some  Cyclopean  architect’s  handiwork,  yet 
nought  but  the  result  of  Nature’s  strange  catastrophes. 
High  terraces  and  grim  escarpments,  where  cloud-spectres 
paced  to  and  fro  like  vague  deliberators,  I saw ; and  long 
vistas  of  dim  peaks,  stretching  away  for  ever,  maze  after 
maze  in  labyrinthine  sequence,  greeted  my  eyes.  There 
arose  dim  rock  - bowers,  time-rippled  and  impressed,  a 
far  blending  of  stern  stone  and  vapour,  and  ether-kissed 
summits,  where  avenues  opened  to  nought  save  the 
imagination,  and  where  the  vision  passed  with  fearful 
glance.  Lost  in  grey  distance  were  these  soundless 
panoramas,  far-stretching,  awful,  fascinating : where  the 
soul,  inspired  for  a period,  leaves  its  clay.  Alone,  silent, 
inscrutable,  inexorable,  stern  solitude  reigned  supreme, 
sovereign  of  that  inorganic  world  ! 

Far  up  in  that  great  labyrinth  I stood,  good  reader. 
A sense  of  admiration  mixed  with  awe  takes  possession 
of  me,  as  such  a scene  and  time  must  ever  impress, 
from  Moses  on  Sinai  to  the  mountain-climber  of  to-day. 
Yet  in  such  a situation  a frivolous  or  fearful  spirit  would 
be  overcome  with  dread — the  terror  of  being  alone,  whilst 
the  heart  that  knows  itself  to  contain  something:  of  the 
elements  whose  influence  it  feels,  knows  its  kinship  and 
seeks  its  association.  The  grandeur  of  the  scene,  and 
mystery  of  the  coming  night,  together  with  the  sense 
of  being  utterly  alone  with  the  elements,  awakens  an 
indescribable  charm,  such  as  one  has  felt  in  childhood 
when  dreaming  that  he  held  converse  with  an  angel. 

I had  expected  to  reach  the  summit  before  it  became 
dark,  and  to  be  able  to  observe  the  valley  where  my 
camp  was  pitched,  but  amphitheatre  was  succeeded  by 
amphitheatre,  labyrinth  by  labyrinth,  summit  by  summit, 
and  I had  to  confess  myself  lost.  The  cold  became 


30 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


intense;  the  darkness  closed  in  around,  and  the  moon 
would  not,  1 knew,  arise  for  some  hours.  But  there 
was  nothing  for  it  but  to  bear  with  philosophy,  not 
only  the  cold,  but  the  pangs  of  hunger  which  now 
attacked  me.  It  was  dangerous  to  go  on  in  the  gloom, 
so  I sought  a cavern.  1 made  a futile  search  for  fuel, 
but  there  was  nothing  that  would  burn ; and  having 
taken  a drink  of  whisky-and-water  from  my  small  flask, 

1 entered  the  cave  to  sleep. 

Now,  caves  have  always  had  a peculiar  attraction  for 
me  since,  as  a boy,  I read  about  Robinson  Crusoe’s  Cave. 
You  may  recollect,  good  reader,  for  you  have  doubtless 
perused  that  interesting  volume,  that  when  Crusoe  dis- 
covered his  cave  he  penetrated  to  the  far  end  of  it,  and 
discerned  in  the  gloom  a pair  of  gleaming  eyes!  But 
Crusoe  was  a devout  man — rendered  so  by  trial  and  mis- 
fortune ; and  being  perfectly  sure  that  the  Devil  could 
not  lie  concealed  there,  he  investigated  the  matter  au  fond , 
and  as  a result  routed  out  an  old  goat  So  it  bcfel  me ! 
Investigating  the  depth  of  my  cave,  I heard  in  the  farthest 
corner  a curious  snorting,  or  breathing,  and  seemed  to 
discern  a dark  form,  with  the  occasional  gleam  as  of 
demoniacal  eyes!  Have  you  ever  experienced  that  curious 
sensation,  good  reader,  when  * gooseflesh  ” covers  your 
body,  and  the  scalp  seems  to  be  slowly  lifted  from  your 
head  ? 1 felt  it  then,  and  these  truthful  chronicles  must 

record  it.  But  the  feeling  of  fear,  if  such  it  were,  was 
also  accompanied  by  one  of  anger — a curious  psycho- 
logical combination — and  1 advanced  with  cocked  carbine 
slowly  towards  the  object.  There  was  a horrid  snort ; a 
bound  ; a rush,  and  . . . 

It  was  nothing  more  than  a wild  bull,  which,  more 
fearful  than  I,  avoided  me  and  bounded  out  of  the  cave. 
I rushed  after  it  with  the  intention  of  bringing  it  down 
with  a ball,  but  it  was  immediately  swallowed  up  in  the 
obscurity,  and  I heard  it  crashing  away  among  the  rocks 
and  stones  as  it  pursued  its  headlong  flight  down  the 
gloomy  canyon. 

Having  made  sure  that  there  were  no  further  bovine — 


Peruvian  Travel 


37 


or  other — occupants  of  the  cave,  I lay  down  upon  the 
soft  white  sand  of  its  floor,  with  carbine  and  pistol  close 
at  hand,  a flat  stone  for  a pillow,  and  tried  to  woo  a 
fitful  slumber.  Outside  the  mists  floated  down  the  valley, 
and  the  scarcely-perceptible  breeze  moaned  within  the 
cavern’s  mouth  and  played  among  the  rocks  in  unseen 
sport.  Otherwise  not  a sound  broke  the  stillness ; the 
solitude  was  uninterrupted  ; not  a living  thing  was  abroad, 
and  even  the  only  human  being  within  that  vast  amphi- 
theatre of  the  Andes  was  soon  absent  in  the  land  of 
dreams. 

Some  hours  must  have  passed,  when  I awoke,  disturbed 
by  a snorting  and  pawing,  and  looking  up  I beheld  the 
form  of  the  bull  intercepting  the  light  at  the  cavern’s  mouth. 
The  animal,  doubtless  asking  itself  by  what  right  he  had 
been  turned  out  of  his  warm  cavern,  had  returned  to  see 
if  the  intruder  had  gone.  I waved  my  arm.  “ Go  away,” 
I shouted,  and,  respecting  the  sound  of  a human  voice, 
he  retired.  “Your  hide,”  I meditated  aloud,  “is  thicker 
than  my  cuticle,  and  can  stand  the  cold  better,”  adding : 
“ This  is  the  working  of  the  laws  of  compensation,  for  the 
animal  of  greater  intelligence  is  less  thoroughly  protected 
against  the  elements.”  The  bull  was  probably,  however, 
not  consoled  by  this  platitudinous  remark,  or  indeed  by 
any  philosophical  reflections,  for  he  continued  to  paw 
the  ground  outside  as  if  desirous  of  entering  and  contesting 
the  matter. 

A shaft  of  light  suddenly  entered  the  cave,  and  an 
upward  effulgent  glow  illumined  the  sky  outside,  and  the 
edge  of  a bright  disc,  silvery  and  soft,  protruded  above 
the  black  rampart  of  the  hills  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
valley.  A rapid  change  took  place  within  the  canyon,  and 
the  darkness  slowly  disappeared,  the  light  of  the  rising 
luminary  invading  the  field  it  had  occupied,  leaving  only 
the  black  shadows  cast  by  its  impinging  rays  upon  the 
rocks.  The  full  moon  rose,  and  her  fair  face  passed  clear 
above  the  opposing  hills,  standing  black  as  jet  against 
her  radiance.  The  light  brought  into  strong  relief  the 
exposed  surfaces  of  the  landscape,  touched  the  distant 


38 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


peaks,  brightening  them  with  faint  hues,  and  disclosing 
the  places  where  Nature  slumbered,  to  where,  far  away, 
the  dominion  of  darkness  still  shrouded  the  distance. 

I sprang  up,  my  teeth  chattering  with  cold ; seized 
my  carbine,  stretched  my  cramped  limbs,  and  draining 
the  last  mouthful  from  my  flask,  sallied  from  the  cave. 
The  way  was  now  clearer,  illumined  by  the  moon,  and 
I could  continue  my  ascent  of  the  canyon. 

Hearing  a noise  I turned  round,  and  the  bull  was 
standing  close  by.  I advanced  slowly  towards  him,  and 
he  did  not  retreat,  but  eyed  me  angrily.  I raised  my 
rifle,  pointed  it  at  the  spot  on  his  forehead  between  his 
eyes  where  a bullet’s  impact  would  cause  him  to  drop 
like  a stone,  and  gazed  along  the  barrel.  The  animal 
and  myself  looked  long  at  each  other  in  the  moonlight 
“Should  he  rush?”  he  asked  himself.  “Should  1 fire?” 
1 asked  myself.  Poor  beast,  why  should  I wantonly  slay 
you?  1 lowered  my  weapon,  and  the  animal  lowered 
his  noble  head.  I backed  away,  with  my  eyes  still  on 
him,  and  turned  and  pursued  my  road.  At  a turn  of  the 
canyon  1 looked  around.  The  bull  was  now  standing 
in  front  of  the  cave,  as  if  in  possession  of  his  domicile 
again,  and  he  watched  me  steadfastly  until  the  landscape 
shut  him  out  from  view. 

For  hours  I pursued  my  way,  and  the  moon  ran  her 
course,  and  the  sun  arose  over  the  eternal  Andean  summits 
to  the  cast  before  I discerned,  far,  far  below,  the  plain 
at  whose  farther  side  I believed  my  tent  was  pitched. 
I was  intensely  thirsty,  rendered  so  by  the  keen  air,  and 
was  now  parched  by  the  heat  of  the  sun.  Not  a stream 
crossed  the  tortuous  way  by  which  I descended — a way 
fit  rather  for  vicunas  or  llamas  than  men,  for,  indeed, 
I simply  zigzagged  down  the  slopes  as  best  I could, 
hoping  to  find  some  torrent-bed  which  should  form  a 
path.  And  yet  these  ravines  are  at  times  exceedingly 
difficult  to  descend.  You  are  sometimes  lured  on  by 
what  seems  an  easy  and  favourable  path,  when  suddenly 
you  are  brought  to  the  verge  of  a frightful  precipice, 
down  which  the  stream  leaps  in  time  of  rain,  but  which 


Peruvian  Travel 


39 


affords  you  no  passage,  and  you  may  have  to  ascend  again 
for  many  weary  paces  and  find  another  way.  How  thirsty 
I was,  with  the  fatiguing  advance ! 

As  I have  elsewhere  remarked,  in  the  vicissitudes  of 
travel  changes  sometimes  occur,  which  bring  home  to 
the  traveller  how  slight  is  the  breach  between  comfort 
and  danger.  Most  travellers  in  wild  countries  have 
experienced  this  contrast.  You  pursue  your  way  to 
carry  out  your  plans,  and  all  seems  well,  when  lo ! a 
sudden  change  of  circumstance  occurs,  and  before  you 
realise  it  you  are  comparing  the  danger  and  discomfort 
of  the  dilemma  you  are  in,  with  the  security  of  yesterday. 
From  the  depths  of  your  armchair,  kind  reader,  in  your 
comfortable  club  or  home,  you  may  not  be  able  to  grasp 
this.  None  of  us  could.  Little  are  we  able  to  realise 
the  effect  of  sudden  changes,  until  they  are  upon  us. 
Yesterday,  perchance,  we  were  in  comfort  and  plenty ; 
to-day  in  difficulty  and  starving,  our  former  resources 
far  removed  from  us. 

I had  now  reached  the  lower  slopes  of  the  hills,  but  so 
far  had  not  crossed  any  stream  or  rivulet  where  I could 
drink,  for  this  western  slope  of  the  Andes,  the  coast  range, 
is  an  almost  rainless  region,  and  water  is  scarce.  The 
zenith  sun  now  beat  down  mercilessly,  and  the  rocks  gave 
forth  a reflected  heat.  Nature  cried  out  for  moisture,  as 
had,  perchance,  many  a thirsty  being  on  this  inhospitable 
plain,  where  no  Moses  with  impatient  divining  - wand 
appeared,  to  strike  the  rocky  ribs  of  the  mountain-side 
and  bring  forth  water ! 

I now  reached  the  level  and  sandy  desert  at  the  base 
of  the  hills : a wide  waste  which  I knew  would  be  difficult 
and  trying  to  cross  on  foot.  It  was  evident  that  the 
windings  of  the  canyon  which  I had  been  obliged  to 
follow  had  taken  me  considerably  out  of  my  way,  and 
to  reach  my  objective  point  I should  have  to  round  a 
spur  whose  promontory  descended  into  the  desert  many 
miles  towards  the  horizon.  The  shorter  cut  had  proved 
to  be  a long  route,  as  often  happens  ; and  it  would  have 
been  wiser  to  have  followed  the  plain  at  the  other  side, 


40  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

where  I had  lost  my  mule,  than  to  have  attempted  this 
way  alone. 

The  region  I was  now  traversing  was  a volcanic  one. 
Enormous  sheets  of  old  lava,  or  tufa,  capped  the  lower 
hills,  worn  away,  however,  in  the  ravines,  and  exposing 
the  underlying  granite.  The  sandy  floor  of  the  desert 
was  covered  in  places  with  white  volcanic  ash,  drifted 
hither  and  thither  by  the  wind  from  some  long  - past 
eruption  of  far-off  volcanoes.  All  was  still ; not  a whisper 
broke  the  sultry  noonday  silence,  and  no  movement  was 
visible  upon  the  tableland,  where  the  only  effect  upon  the 
tympanum  of  the  attentive  ear  was  that  curious  feeling 
of  such  places,  where  the  “ sound  ” of  the  sunshine  is 
almost  apparent.  The  steely  azure  of  the  farthest  range 
stood  out  against  the  grey-blue,  which  a cloudless  tropical 
sky  at  noonday  presents.  The  enchanting  hue  of  the 
atmospheric  distance  bathed  the  scarred  and  ridged  topo- 
graphy with  its  indefinable  influence,  and  the  shadows 
cast  by  the  varying  formations  athwart  the  slopes  brought 
out  the  tracery  of  the  mysterious  and  distant  canyons, 
where  successive  peak,  spur,  and  valley  displayed  their 
geometrical  combinations  to  the  view.  They  seemed  like 
intersecting  planes,  pyramids,  and  cones : in  their  pro- 
digious disarrangement  the  deserted  work  of  some  giant 
geometrician,  who,  wearied  of  problems  of  their  dis- 
position, had  left  his  mighty  models  there  in  disorder 
strewn  ; or,  like  the  neglected  cubes  of  some  Cyclopean 
child,  whose  dawning  reason  some  half-hour  of  an  jton 
ago  had  dallied  away  the — to  him — few  fleeting  moments 
of  a geological  age,  in  meaningless  displacement  of  his  toys ! 

But  if  both  had  suspended  their  labour  or  their 
pleasure  the  elements  had  taken  up  their  operations. 
These  unflagging  agents  of  inexorable  time,  these  demo- 
cratic levellers  who  work  unceasingly  to  bring  the  proud 
and  lofty  summits  down,  had,  in  their  endless,  silent 
quarryings,  destroyed  the  solids’  symmetry  with  fractured 
strata  and  sheer  crevasse — the  complement  of  plutonic 
upheavals  of  ages  past ; new  pages  in  this  book  of  stone, 
for  the  intermittent  rains  of  higher  regions  had  hurtled 


The  Desert  Moving  Sand-dunes  near  Arequipa. 
Matched  on  thr  l/ml  hy  (hr  A illhor. 


Peruvian  Travel 


41 


down  their  slopes,  pouring  towards  the  plain  in  impetuous 
passage,  excavating  scarred  quebradas , deep  cut  within  the 
bowels  of  the  rocky  hills. 

Notwithstanding  the  hunger  and  thirst  from  which  I 
suffered,  I marked,  both  from  habit  and  from  interest, 
the  varying  formation  of  the  region,  for  to  the  trained 
mind  the  geological  and  topographical  features  of  a land- 
scape are  of  intense  interest.  Pulling  myself  together, 
I struck  across  the  sand  desert,  towards  the  distant  spur 
beyond  which — I hoped — my  camp  must  lie.  God  help 
me  if  it  did  not ! 

What  for  are  these  vast  expanses  of  desert,  hot  by 
day  and  cold  by  night?  Are  they  mighty  sun-engines, 
whose  difference  of  potential  only  awaits  the  application 
of  man’s  growing  intelligence  to  yield  him  some  use  and 
profit  ? What  for  are  these  inexhaustible  constituents  of 
granite  and  rock  ? shall  not  the  embodied  energy  which 
put  and  holds  their  elements  in  unison  disclose  and  lend 
itself — some  day  — to  the  machinations  of  the  human 
engineer?  Does  Nature  at  times  commune  with  man? 
Has  she  some  continuous  messages  from  some  other  state 
which  she  is  always  endeavouring  to  impress  upon  the  dull 
understanding  of  her  principal  creation — man  ? Doubt- 
less ; for  is  he  not  ever  striving  to  catch  its  meaning, 
listening  upon  the  confines  of  his  world  to  grasp  and 
register  some  accent  of  that  Voice  which  floats  upon  the 
endless  mean  ; pressing  to  the  keyhole  of  the  empyrean 
his  earthly  diaphragm,  and  striving  to  learn  a glint  of 
destiny ! 

Such  reflections  passed  through  my  mind  as  I tramped 
onwards  across  the  desert,  my  eyes  ever  upon  the  distant 
spur ; and  I fell  into  a sort  of  dreamy  state,  due  to  hunger 
and  lack  of  sleep,  and  the  effect  of  the  sudden  changes 
of  temperature  which  I had  undergone.  The  air  came 
as  if  in  blasts  from  a furnace.  Miniature  cyclones,  small 
“water-spouts”  of  dust,  whirled  skywards  on  the  far 
horizon,  with  a spiro-vortex  motion  which  carried  their 
upper  extremities  to  the  sky — veritable  pillars  of  sand, 
which  followed  each  other  over  the  plain  as  if  in  some 


42 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


gigantic  game  of  elusion  and  pursuit,  whose  helical 
eddyings  and  intermittent  lurchings  seemed  to  betoken 
a scarcely  self  - containing  force.  The  phenomena  of 
nature  seemed  to  be  acutely  present  to  my  mind,  and 
a species  of  semi-delirium  rendered  me  almost  oblivious 
of  bodily  fatigue.  I thought  of  home,  of  a Devonshire 
garden  amid  the  scent  of  wallflowers  or  violets.  Oh, 
God  of  Spring ! A whole  world  opens  to  my  senses — 
a world  so  far  away,  so  long  ago!  I pull  down  the 
brim  of  my  hat,  and  shut  out  the  glowing  sun-ball,  and 
dwell  a moment  in  that  springtime  garden  with  loved 
ones  sitting  there.  But  1 nearly  lose  my  footing,  and, 
pulling  myself  together,  stride  forward.  I will  not  sit 
down  on  that  grassy  bank  of  dreamland ! 

The  sand  is  whirled  into  my  face  as  if  some  demon 
of  the  desert  mocked  me.  The  mirage,  a phenomenon 
of  those  regions,  builds  a vague  and  unstable  world  on 
the  horizon  — a lake,  houses,  trees,  which  recede  as  1 
advance.  Again  I pull  down  my  hat’s  brim  and  enter 
the  springtime  garden,  and  again  the  sand-sleet  strikes 
my  face  and  wakes  me,  and — garden,  lake,  trees,  and 
home,  they  are  retreating  ever,  like  the  mirage,  like 
hope — that  pillared  cloud  of  day  or  night,  alternate 
grim  or  gay,  elusive  on  the  future’s  borderland  ! 

Good  reader,  possibly  you  have  never  suffered  from 
the  effects  of  fatigue,  exposure,  thirst,  hunger,  and  the 
like.  I was  going  to  say  I trust  you  never  will,  yet 
there  are  sweet  uses  and  comparisons  of  such  adversity. 
For,  as  the  pitiless  sun  approached  the  horizon,  and  as 
I staggered  on  and  reached  the  point  or  spur  towards 
which  I had  set  my  course,  as  I rounded  a huge  projecting 
buttress  of  rocks,  I came  suddenly  upon — what  ? — a stream 
of  water  sparkling  down  from  above,  so  sweet  and  clear 
that  imagination  might  declare  it  bom  but  recently  of 
some  divine  intent — and  falling  with  a gentle  murmur 
as  if  the  echoes  of  the  voice  which  bid  it  be,  still  lingered 
in  it. 

I quenched  my  thirst  at  this  beautiful  stream.  It 


Peruvian  Travel 


43 


was,  I knew,  the  source  of  that  whereon  my  camp  was 
pitched.  As  I rested  there,  gratefully,  under  the  shadow 
of  a rock,  I heard  the  noise  of  approaching  hoofs,  and 
around  the  farther  side  of  the  promontory  appeared  two 
men  and  three  animals — my  servants  and  my  mule.  As 
they  informed  me,  the  animal  had  returned  alone  to 
camp  with  the  bridle  tied  to  the  saddle-bow,  as  I had 
left  it.  They  had  returned  over  the  trail  and  interviewed 
the  Chola  woman,  who  had  told  them  of  my  intention 
to  take  a “short  cut”  over  the  mountains,  and  it  being 
impossible  to  take  the  mules  that  way,  they  had  returned 
to  seek  and  meet  me. 

They  made  a fire,  and  I partook  of  some  soup,  and 
other  satisfactory  matters,  ingredients  of  which  were  in 
my  saddle-bags ; and,  having  rested  a while,  we  mounted 
our  mules  and  returned  to  the  camp. 


CHAPTER  V 


PERUVIAN  TRAVEL — Continued 

The  coast  of  Peru  possesses  some  excellent  seaports,  as 
has  been  shown,  whilst  others  of  the  places  of  debarka- 
tion are  exposed  and  difficult,  and  passengers  have  some- 
times to  be  hauled  up  in  a barrel,  by  means  of  the  steam 
crane  used  for  unloading  goods.  Among  the  worst  of 
these  ports  is  Mollendo,  some  450  miles  south  of  Callao, 
and  which,  notwithstanding  the  fact  that  it  is  the  ter- 
minus of  the  Southern  Railway  of  Peru — an  important 
system  many  hundreds  of  miles  in  length,  giving  access 
to  Lake  Titicaca  and  communication  with  Bolivia,  and 
outlet  to  its  commerce — is  nothing  but  an  open  road- 
stead ; and  the  waves,  at  some  seasons  of  the  year, 
roll  in  against  the  landing  - place  with  such  force  that 
passengers  cannot  be  landed.  This  port  is  a living 
example  of  the  “sins  of  the  fathers  being  visited  upon 
the  children,”  unto  the  second  and  third  generation  at 
least ; for  the  port  and  railway  terminus  w'as  made  at 
Mollendo  instead  of  Islay — a natural  harbour  a few 
miles  further  north — in  accordance  with  certain  vested 
interests,  and  accompanied  by  bribery  and  corruption — 
elements  which,  indeed,  were  rife  in  Peru  during  the 
epoch  of  railway  construction  and  the  guano  negotia- 
tions, last  century,  and  whose  evil  effects  have  borne  a 
lasting  fruit.  Some  work  was  recently  undertaken  to 
“improve”  the  small  rocky  inlet  wrhere  landing  is 
effected.  I examined  this  work,  and  it  consisted  of 
cutting  off  the  top  of  a rocky  hill  - promontory,  and 
forming  with  the  (Ubris  a species  of  breakwater.  It 
did  not  seem  to  occur  to  the  individuals  who  carried 


44 


Peruvian  Travel 


45 


out  this  work  that  the  light  material  resulting  from 
this  excavation  would  be  washed  away  during  the  first 
storm,  and  which,  in  effect,  has  taken  place  to  some 
extent,  partly  filling  up  the  inlet.  I drew  attention  to 
this  in  the  Lima  papers,  and  the  work  was  stopped, 
whether  as  a result  of  this,  or  of  other  investigations, 
I do  not  know.  Doubtless  the  terminus  will  be  made 
at  Islay  in  some  future  period. 

Northwardly  and  southwardly  of  Mollendo  the  land 
consists  of  the  usual  sterile  sandy  coast  plains,  occasion- 
ally broken  by  valleys  with  cane  and  cotton  plantations, 
irrigated  from  the  descending  rivers.  Going  northwardly 
along  the  coast,  on  my  way  to  examine  some  gold  mines 
in  the  interior,  I passed  several  fine  streams  and  valleys 
of  this  nature,  such  as  the  rivers  of  Camana  and  of 
Ocona.  The  inhabitants  of  the  towns  of  the  same 
names,  in  these  respective  valleys,  are  all  Spanish-speak- 
ing ; and  Quechua  is  not  understood  by  the  Indians  in 
the  coast  cities.  Nearly  all  the  products  of  semi-tropical 
regions  are  grown,  such  as  sugar-cane,  coffee,  bananas, 
oranges,  figs,  etc.,  whilst  enormous  groves  of  olive-trees 
abound,  the  great  diameter  of  whose  trunks  attest  their  age. 

The  houses  of  the  Indian  part  of  the  population  are 
built  of  wattles  or  canes,  neatly  tied  together  or  plaited, 
and  with  lattice-work  for  the  windows,  and  steep  pitched 
roofs  of  thatch : the  whole  presenting  a picturesque 

aspect,  and  being  an  adaptation  to  climatic  conditions 
of  heat,  calling  for  consequent  free  ventilation.  In 
Ocona  the  houses  are  of  one  storey,  the  walls  and  roof 
supported  by  uprights  made  of  forked  olive  trunks, 
placed  outside  like  columns,  which  give  the  streets  a 
curious  appearance.  These  wattle  houses  are  sometimes 
newly  built  of  green  cane  with  the  leaves  on — a fact 
which  I noticed  by  reason  of  my  mule  on  one  occasion 
endeavouring  to  eat  up  a portion  of  such  a dwelling. 
The  animal  had  been  tethered  near  the  wall,  at  the  end 
of  a day’s  journey,  and  a few  minutes  afterwards  the 
owner  of  the  place — an  Indian  woman — came  rushing 
about  to  find  me.  “ Senor,”  she  exclaimed,  “ please  to 


4G 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


have  your  mule  taken  away;  it  is  eating  my  house!” 
She  further  declaimed  that  she  was  a poor  widow, 
scarcely  able  to  support  herself  and  her  children ! I 
returned  to  the  spot  with  her,  and  found  that  the  mule, 
growing  impatient  at  the  delay  of  the  arriero , who  had 
gone  to  purchase  fodder,  and  hungry  after  the  day’s 
journey,  had  eaten  a large  hole  in  the  wall,  and  was 
now  attacking  the  roof,  whilst  the  pack  animals  had 
also  demolished  one  corner  of  an  outhouse.  Removing 
the  animals,  I made  the  old  woman  some  compensation 
for  the  damage.  My  mule  was  evidently  of  a pharasaical 
disposition,  for  had  he  not  “devoured  widows’  houses”? 
But  I forgave  him  that  misdemeanour,  for  he  was  a 
good  and  astute  beast,  and  served  me  on  the  morrow. 
1 was  early  in  the  saddle,  for  before  us  lay  20  leagues 
of  hot  and  toilsome  road,  across  an  absolutely  uninhabited 
and  treeless  desert.  1 left  before  daybreak,  and  the  orb 
of  day  had  described  his  glowing  arc  across  the  heavens, 
and  sank  again  beneath  the  horizon,  long  before  I arrived 
at  my  objective  point.  Wearied  of  waiting  for  the  lagging 
pack-mule  and  arriero , I had  advanced  considerably  on 
the  way  as  night  fell,  although  I did  not  know  the  road 
— if  such  the  occasional  track  of  animals’  footprints  in 
the  sandy  hills  might  be  termed — badly  illumined  by 
the  faint  rays  of  an  intermittent  moon.  Plunged  in 
abstraction,  my  thoughts  far  away,  I missed  the  track, 
and  came  to  a sudden  halt  as  the  fact  dawned  upon  me 
that  1 was  lost ; but  I wisely  forbore  to  go  on,  lest 
I might  wander  altogether  from  the  way.  Suddenly  my 
mule  pricked  up  his  cars  and  sniffed  the  evening  breeze. 
1 let  the  reins  hang  loose — I knew  he  had  often  been 
over  that  route  before — and  the  intelligent  beast  moved 
on  and  continued  the  march  with  confident  stride,  and 
unerringly  wound  his  way  through  sandy  defiles  and 
around  the  gloomy  bases  of  the  hills  until  the  lights 
of  the  town  appeared,  only  stopping  before  the  door 
of  the  fonda , or  little  hotel,  of  the  place.  Such  is  the 
instinct  of  these  animals,  and  the  wise  horseman  in  such 


Peruvian  Travel  47 

circumstances  does  not  force  his  beast  to  a direction 
against  its  will. 

Next  to  his  own  health,  the  main  consideration  for 
the  traveller  in  South  America  is  the  quality  of  his  horse 
or  mule.  Hard  and  toilsome  will  be  your  day’s  travel 
if  the  animal  is  a poor  one ; and  this  reminds  me  of  a 
trying  experience  in  crossing  a desert  in  the  region  of 
the  nitrate  fields  of  Tarapacd,  in  the  northern  part  of 
Chile  (and  which  formerly  belonged  to  Peru).  I left 
the  Cordillera  early  in  the  morning,  expecting  to  arrive 
at  one  of  the  nitrate  oficinas  at  6 P.M. — a matter  of  75 
miles ; but  I had  not  reckoned  upon  my  mule  falling 
lame  — due  to  its  having  been  badly  shod  — and  which 
happened  about  midday.  In  the  deep  sand  of  that  rain- 
less region  the  unfortunate  beast  floundered  hopelessly, 
and  I dismounted  for  a space  and  led  it.  The  sun  beat 
down  fiercely,  as  it  only  can  on  that  frightful  plain, 
and  swirling  sand-storms  enveloped  me  at  times.  I 
did  not  lose  the  track — why?  For  a curious  reason. 
The  trail  over  this  desert  is  securely  marked  out  by 
reason  of  the  numberless  empty  bottles  which  strew  it 
— bottles  which  have  contained  water  and  other  liquids, 
and  which  have  been  thrown  away  (the  bottles,  not  the 
liquids)  by  travellers  who  have  not  desired  to  carry  any 
useless  dead  load.  There  are  champagne  bottles,  beer, 
whisky,  brandy,  mineral  water,  and  every  other  kind 
of  bottle  known — I was  going  to  say,  to  civilised  man  ! 
They  bear  every  known  label,  and  cart-loads  of  them 
could  be  recovered.  I may  add  that  the  seaport  for  this 
region  is  Iquique,  where  dwells  a large  and  prosperous 
British  community  engaged  in  converting  nitrate  into 
pounds  sterling,  and  which  operation  is  generally  success- 
fully performed  to  the  profit  of  the  aforesaid  Britishers 
and  their  dependent  shareholders.  But  I digress.  My 
reason  for  speaking  of  the  British  colony  was  only  to 
explain  the  original  existence  of  such  numerous  bottles, 
with  foreign  labels,  in  the  country ! 

To  return  to  my  journey.  I was  just  about  to  mount 
the  unfortunate  mule  again  in  order  to  try  to  urge  it  to 


48 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


something  speedier  than  a crawl,  when  the  attention  of 
both  of  us  was  drawn  towards  an  extraordinary  object 
which  was  rapidly  advancing  in  our  direction,  accompanied 
by  a singular  banging  noise.  At  first  sight  I could  not 
explain  what  it  was,  and  indeed  my  attention  was  diverted 
towards  the  mule,  who,  affrighted,  endeavoured  to  bolt, 
notwithstanding  its  lameness.  The  object  rapidly  neared 
us,  and  I was  able  to  see  what  it  was — nothing  more 
fearful  or  dangerous  than  a large,  square  petroleum  tin, 
which  had  been  caught  up  by  a small  cyclone,  or  dust 
whirlwind,  and  was  bounding  along  in  the  centre  of  a 
dust  column,  giving  forth  a characteristic  banging  every 
time  it  struck  the  ground.  I could  scarcely  refrain 
from  laughing,  but  it  proved  to  be  no  laughing  matter, 
for,  terrified  out  of  its  senses  by  the  object,  which  was 
heading  straight  for  us,  the  mule  bolted  ; and  as  I had 
wound  the  reins  around  my  wrist  for  further  security  in 
holding  it,  I was  jerked  over  and  dragged  along  in  the 
dust. 

Now,  it  is  no  joke  to  be  dragged  by  a mule,  even  on 
account  of  a flying  petroleum  tin.  I remember  wonder- 
ing what  Don  Quixote  would  have  done  under  the 
circumstances!  He  who  charged  at  wine-pots,  and  did 
battle  with  windmills.  But  I would  not  let  go— to  lose 
my  mule,  well  I knew,  would  expose  me  to  the  danger 
of  a terribly  fatiguing  tramp  through  the  loose  sand  of 
the  desert,  with  heat,  thirst,  and  hunger  as  my  companions, 
for  my  attendant  had  got  drunk  the  night  before,  and  I 
had  been  obliged  to  set  out  alone. 

I struggled  to  my  feet.  The  object  which  had 
frightened  the  mule  had  passed,  and  was  disappearing 
on  the  far  horizon  of  the  desert.  Fortunately  the  bridle 
had  not  broken,  and  I mounted.  The  animal  settled 
down  to  its  former  lameness,  and  I made  but  little 
progress  over  that  interminable  sea  of  sand.  The  day 
wore  on.  The  sun  went  down  ; the  moon  went  down, 
the  stars  came  up  and  went  down,  and  at  last  my  mule 
went  down,  and  I only  avoided  going  down  myself  by 
an  alert  movement 


Peruvian  Travel 


49 


Only  those  who  have  crossed  these  strange  deserts  can 
picture  their  curious  formation.  Like  a suddenly  arrested 
or  frozen  sea  of  mud  - waves,  saturated  with  salt,  and 
showing  white  on  their  under  edges,  the  surface  presents 
itself  to  the  traveller’s  gaze  bounded  only  by  the  horizon. 
Picture  yourself  struggling,  kind  reader,  across  this 
appalling  place,  breaking  knee-deep  into  the  dry  mud- 
waves  every  instant,  and  the  wretched  beast  behind  you 
pulling  back  at  the  lariat  in  your  hand.  If  your 
imagination  is  strong  enough,  you  have  a picture  of 
Hades,  and  a lost  spirit  wandering  over  endless  freshly- 
made  tombs ! Add  to  this  a parching  thirst,  and 
weariness  unspeakable,  and  then  settle  down  comfortably 
into  your  armchair.  Fortunately  I was  not  famished. 
I had  brought  some  light  refreshment,  and  had,  in 
addition,  followed — as  I ever  did  in  these  travels — the 
sage  advice  contained  in  the  Spanish  proverb : 

“ De  tu  casa  a la  agena 
Sal  con  la  barriga  llena  ! ” 

which  I may  freely  translate  : “ From  thine  own  to  a 
stranger’s  house,  go  forth  with  a well-filled  belly ! ” 

But  to  cut  short  this  most  unpleasant  account,  I 
arrived  towards  the  early  morning  upon  an  eminence, 
and  beheld  the  light  of  the  town,  whilst  the  faint  whistle 
of  a locomotive  upon  the  nitrate  railway  fell  like  music 
on  my  ears. 

To  return  to  the  journey  to  whose  description  this 
chapter  is  devoted.  The  sandy  hills  and  valleys  along 
the  Peruvian  coast  are  often  trying  to  the  horseman,  the 
going  being  fatiguing  to  man  and  beast,  on  account  of 
the  floundering  through  loose  sand  which  has  to  be 
performed.  In  places,  the  whole  country  is  strewn  with 
volcanic  ash : the  result  of  the  eruptions  of  far-off 

volcanoes  in  bygone  years.  On  the  coast,  and  the  plain 
further  inland,  are  encountered  many  of  the  extraordinary 
sand-dunes  known  in  Spanish  as  Medanos , which  arrest 
the  attention  of  the  observant  traveller,  and  are  worthy 
of  some  description.  The  view  I give  shows  an  “army” 

D 


50 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


of  these  curious  structures  “marching”  across  the  desert 
near  Arequipa,  for  they  veritably  move,  creeping  slowly 
along  like  colossal  turtles.  I examined  these  ; they  consist 
of  heaps  of  the  finest  wind-blown  sand,  and  possess  the 
strange  property  of  preserving  always  a certain  form  or 
geometrical  shape.  They  are  circular  on  plan  with  a 
crescent-shaped  front ; the  horns  of  the  crescent  forming 
the  “ prow,”  if  such  it  may  be  termed.  Progress  is  caused 
by  the  wind,  and  on  examining  them  closely,  when  the 
wind  blows  it  is  seen  that  their  backs  are  covered  with 
minute  waves  or  vibrations,  giving  a quivering  appearance 
to  the  mass ; and  the  particles  of  sand  constantly  change 
place,  rolling  over  and  over  to  the  front ; and  by  virtue 
of  this  change  of  position  of  its  particles  the  whole  mass 
advances,  retaining,  however,  its  curious  form.  Their 
formation  is  shown  on  the  accompanying  sketch. 

Other  curious  caprices  of  Nature  in  the  disposition 
of  earth,  sand,  and  rocks  are  often  witnessed  in  these 
strange  regions.  I have  seen  vast  sand  - banks,  with 
beautiful  crests  and  summits ; waves  of  sand,  which  are 
built  up  by  the  wind,  and  advance  as  if  to  engulf  whatever 
they  may  encounter.  And  I have  crossed  plains  strewn 
with  slabs  of  volcanic  rock,  thousands  of  which  had  been 
worn  into  troughs  and  basins  by  the  action  of  the  wind 
and  sand.  Thousands  of  others  had  holes  through  them, 
as  if  bored  by  some  implement,  and  on  examination  the 
operation  of  boring  is  disclosed.  A hollow  or  depression 
is  formed  or  exists  in  the  slab,  and  it  is  seen,  on  observing 
closely,  that  a little  vortex  of  sand  is  busily  at  work, 
actuated  by  the  wind,  in  the  bottom  of  this  depression, 
where,  in  the  course  of  long  periods,  a hole  is  gradually 
worn  right  through.  Many  of  these  slabs  present  the 
appearance  of  having  been  artificially  worked. 

Another  curious  formation  of  the  elements — a caprice 
of  water  this  time — are  the  Lloclias , a name  given  by 
the  Indians  to  the  alluvial  fans  at  the  head  of  the  small 
ravines  on  precipitous  mountain  - sides.  The  water,  in 
times  of  rain,  rushes  down  the  rocky  gullies  of  the  steep 
slopes,  forming  curious  open  conduits  with  walls  built 


Peruvian  Travel 


51 


up  of  blocks  of  stone,  which  have  the  appearance  of  having 
been  put  in  place  artificially  ; and  it  is  difficult  to  explain 
the  action  of  the  water  in  making  these  structures.  It 
is  probably  due  to  the  intermittent  force  of  floods;  and 
the  walls  are  piled  up  of  blocks  and  pebbles,  with  flat 
faces  often,  and  much  steeper  than  the  natural  “angle 
of  repose”  for  such  material.  Below  where  this  natural 
conduit  terminates,  the  fine  matter  brought  down  from 
the  slope  above,  during  the  ages,  spreads  out  in  a flat 
bar,  or  alluvial  fan,  sometimes  of  considerable  area;  and 
here  the  Indians  construct  their  huts,  and  plant  their 
maize  or  vines,  etc.  The  name  Lloclia  is  given  to  these 
places,  and  they  form  a marked  feature  of  the  ravines 
of  the  foothills  of  the  Andes. 

On  my  journey  along  the  coast  I passed  through  a 
jaguey  (pronounce  “ ha-why  ” ),  or  small  wood,  and  which 
had  an  evil  reputation.  The  name  is  given  especially  to 
thickets  or  woods  in  a sandy  desert  which  are  due  to  the 
presence  of  water  underground,  from  a stream  or  river 
which  sinks  in  such  places,  not  being  of  sufficient  volume 
to  reach  the  sea.  The  word  is,  possibly,  allied  to  the 
Brazilian  word  jaguar , from  the  animal  which  inhabits 
the  woods  on  the  Amazon. 

Well,  the  evil  reputation  of  this  place  was  due — so 
my  attendant,  who  knew  it,  informed  me — to  the  murder 
by  some  thieves  of  a messenger  who  was  journeying  to 
an  adjacent  mine  with  bags  of  silver  coin  to  pay  the 
miners,  years  ago.  The  robbers  had  waylaid  him  in 
the  wood,  slain  him,  and  appropriated  the  money.  Other 
outrages,  he  said,  had  been  committed  upon  travellers 
here,  and  he  looked  fearfully  around  in  the  growing  dusk 
as  we  entered  the  place,  as  if  momentarily  expecting  to 
behold  the  forms  of  some  robbers,  or  the  apparitions  of 
some  murdered  wayfarer,  and  only  gathering  some  re- 
assurance from  contemplating  the  large  Colts’  revolver 
which  I carried  at  my  belt.  An  old  ruined  wattle  house 
stood  near  the  trail,  and  as  nightfall  was  at  hand,  and  a 
sand  - storm  impending,  I decided  to  halt  and  make  use 
of  the  shelter : a proceeding  which  by  no  means  met  with 


52 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


my  servant’s  approval,  in  view  of  the  matters  previously 
related.  The  night  fell ; the  door  was  barred.  The  wind 
whistled  drearily  about  the  place,  and  the  Pacific  rollers 
beat  upon  the  shore  but  a thousand  yards  away.  The 
impatient  mules  stamped  their  indignation  at  the  scant 
fodder  which  had  been  given  them,  and  snorted  from 
time  to  time  as  if  apprehensive  of  some  prowling  footsteps. 
The  portable  spirit-lamp  was  lighted,  and  coffee  and  food 
partaken  of,  and  my  cot  having  been  set  up,  I laid  down 
to  slumber ; whilst  my  attendant,  spreading  his  poncho 
in  one  corner,  also  endeavoured  to  woo  some  fitful  and 
nervous  repose. 

1 had  scarcely  been  asleep  for  half  an  hour  when  I 
was  aroused  by  a frightful  yell,  and  starting  up,  I hastily 
lit  a match.  My  man  was  on  his  feet,  with  signs  of 
fear  upon  his  countenance  — it  was  he  who  had  cried 
out — and  in  response  to  my  question,  informed  me  that 
there  were  robbers  about,  and  that  some  one  had  pushed 
against  the  frail  wall  of  the  hut  from  outside.  I certainly 
heard  footsteps  in  the  cleared  space  outside  the  house, 
and,  fearing  for  the  safety  of  the  mules,  I hastily  put 
on  my  boots,  and  grasped  the  revolver.  Then  I bid 
the  boy  open  the  door,  and  rushed  suddenly  out  into 
the  moonlight  with  cocked  weapon,  ready  to  fire,  if  such 
were  necessary.  But  this  truthful  narrative  has  to  record 
that  no  dramatic  sequel  was  experienced.  What  I found 
was  that  the  arricro  had  arrived  with  the  pack-mules — 
he  had  been  delayed  at  the  last  stopping-place — and  was 
peacefully  engaged  in  unloading  the  animals,  so  I turned 
in  and  slept  peacefully  until  morning. 

The  rivers  which  flow  to  the  Pacific  coast,  such  as  the 
Ocofta  and  Camani,  do  not  form  estuaries  or  harbours  at 
their  embouchures.  In  the  dry  season,  when  the  streams 
are  at  their  lowest,  the  sea  throws  up  a great  bank  of 
stones  and  shingle  right  across  the  mouth,  and  the  rollers 
beat  against  it,  and  the  fresh  - water  current  has  outlet 
by  a narrow  channel  at  one  side ; whilst  in  the  rainy 
season  large  volumes  of  water  descend  from  the  Cordillera 
and  sweep  this  bar  entirely  away,  filling  the  wide  channel 


Peruvian  Travel 


53 


from  side  to  side,  and  the  fresh  water  plunges  into  the 
sea,  the  current  battling  fiercely  with  the  waves  as  it 
mingles  therewith. 

I have  spoken  elsewhere  of  the  vestiges  of  the  great 
earthquake  wave  which  devastated  that  coast  long  ago, 
and  even  now  the  people  retain  the  recollection,  handed 
down  to  them,  of  that  fearful  time  when  “ salio  la  mar ” 
(“  the  sea  came  out  ”),  as  they  put  it.  At  that,  and 
subsequent  periods,  the  buildings,  and  especially  the 
churches,  in  the  interior  towns  were  cracked  or  ruined. 
At  one  of  these,  a small  town,  the  cura  and  principal 
inhabitants  requested  me  to  examine  their  church,  and 
give  them,  as  an  engineer,  some  idea  as  to  its  possible 
restoration,  and  which  I gladly  did  for  them.  The 
building  was  in  a dangerous  condition.  The  boveda , or 
vaulted  roof — for  it  had  been  well  constructed  of  stone — 
had  partly  fallen,  and  was  rendered  useless,  whilst  the 
walls  were  leaning  outwards,  seriously  far  from  the 
perpendicular.  To  restore  the  roof  was  hopeless,  but 
I advised  attempting  the  drawing  in  of  the  walls  by 
means  of  placing  iron  bars  across  and  screwing  them 
up  at  the  ends — a suggestion  which  filled  them  with 
delight,  and  which,  I believe,  was  subsequently  carried 
out.  As  to  the  roof,  it  was  hopeless ; and  the  cura 
informed  me  with  much  pride  that  he  intended  to 
re-roof  it  with  “a  beautiful  modern  material,  worthy  of 
a house  of  God ! ” Can  you  guess,  kind  reader,  what  he 
had  in  view  ? Corrugated  iron  ! That  most  prosaic  and 
hideous  product : that  horrible  material  whose  appear- 
ance marks  the  frontiers  of  civilisation  : the  exile  of 

beauty  and  of  art,  and  the  edge  of  decency  and  order! 
Shades  of  Ruskin  and  the  poets ! Corrugated  iron  upon 
an  ancient  temple ! But  I condemned  the  idea  in  toto, 
and  after  due  consideration  of  all  available  material, 
advised  the  use  of  tiles.  These  tiles  are  of  a beautiful 
red  colour,  made  in  the  vicinity,  in  the  form  of  pan 
tiles,  such  as  are  common  in  Europe ; and  the  corrugated 
iron  was  not  ordered,  for  which  I congratulated  myself. 

In  this  neighbourhood  I saw  other  ruined  temples, 


54 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


for,  although  in  the  chapter  on  “The  Church  in  Peru’* 
I have  described  the  general  structure  as  being  of  adobe, 
nevertheless  there  are  some  regions  where  stone  is 
employed.  And  here  is  an  example  of  the  effect  on 
man’s  architecture  of  the  material  of  a particular  environ- 
ment. In  this  region,  as  in  Arequipa,  the  buildings  are 
of  cut  blocks  of  a soft  white  volcanic  stone,  or  tufa, 
which  is  durable  and  lasting,  and  lends  itself  readily  to 
the  chisel.  Mere,  then,  in  Peru  are  all  the  ages  of 
architecture — the  wattle  hut,  the  adobe  walls,  and  the 
stone  temples. 

I have  elsewhere  described  the  characteristics  of  the 
inhabitants  of  these  regions.  The  Cholos  are  ever  prone 
to  give  miraculous  origins,  portents,  and  meanings  to 
things,  and  to  invest  chance  occurrences  with  some 
supernatural  attributes.  It  chanced  that  for  one  night, 
whilst  on  this  expedition,  we  had  slept  on  a high  plateau, 
as  time  had  not  permitted  us  to  descend  before  nightfall. 
In  the  early  morning  — the  sun  had  risen  — we  came 
down,  and  I beheld  some  of  the  remarkable  mist-effects 
of  those  regions.  The  valley  below  us  was  filled  with 
a sea  of  mist,  but  a sea  with  a surface  on  which  we 
looked  down  as  upon  an  ocean  of  waters,  so  sharply 
defined  was  it,  and  so  remarkably  did  the  mist-billows 
roll  against  the  rocky  promontories.  At  length  we  came 
down  to  the  surface  of  this  sea — all  below  being  invisible. 
The  road  wound  along  the  edge  of  a precipice,  and 
looking  down  from  my  mule  upon  the  mist — I was  in 
advance — I beheld  a strange  phenomenon.  There,  a few 
yards  away,  was  the  image  of  a man  mounted  upon  a 
beast,  and  around  his  head  was  a glorious  halo  of  rainbow 
light  and  colours.  It  kept  pace  with  me,  stopped  when 
I stopped,  and  moved  when  I moved.  For  a moment  I 
was  dumbfounded,  so  remarkable  was  the  apparition.  I 
halted,  watching  it  in  amaze,  and  at  length  the  truth 
flashed  upon  me.  It  was  an  Anthelion — a halo  or  nimbus 
projected  from  my  own  figure  by  the  rays  of  the  sun 
upon  the  mist,  and  such  as  occur  in  Alpine  regions  and 
elsewhere.  In  fact,  I recollected  having  seen  the  same 


Peruvian  Travel 


55 


phenomenon,  though  far  less  perfect,  in  the  flying  foam 
at  the  foot  of  Niagara  falls,  years  ago.  My  men  came 
up,  and  as  they  approached,  wishing  to  mark  the  effect 
upon  them  of  this  magical  apparition,  I bid  them  halt, 
and  pointed  to  the  precipice.  Exclamations  of  astonish- 
ment arose  from  them.  “ It  is  Christ  riding  upon  an 
ass,”  they  said  ; and  really  the  image  was  very  similar 
to  the  popular  coloured  pictures  representing  Jesus  of 
Nazareth,  which  are  common  in  Spanish  - American 
countries.  The  men  became  quite  excited ; and  one 
threw  himself  from  his  horse  in  an  attitude  of  adoration, 
and  I thought  it  time  to  undeceive  them. 

“ No,”  I said,  “ it  is  my  shadow  ; the  ‘ gloria'  as  you 
call  it,  is  around  my  head.”  “ Then,”  replied  one  of 
them,  as  they  gazed  in  astonishment  at  me,  “the  Sehor 
must  be  a holy  personage,”  and  they  seemed  bent — 
poor  fellows  — on  rendering  me  some  adoration  or 
homage.  This  was  rather  embarrassing,  and  better  to 
explain  the  matter  to  them,  I said  : “ Look,  I will  make 
it  disappear  ; ” and  I advanced  away  from  the  edge  of 
the  precipice,  so  that  the  sun’s  rays  should  no  longer 
project  the  image  upon  the  mist  below.  But  to  my 
surprise  they  replied  that  the  halo  had  not  gone ; and 
for  a moment  I was  puzzled.  Of  course — how  stupid  ! 
— each  head  projected  a halo ! That  which  I had  seen 
was  my  own  ; that  which  they  had  seen  was  not  mine, 
but  their  own.  Nor  could  any  one  see  more  than  one 
— his  own.  Having  argued  this  in  my  own  mind,  I 
explained  it  to  the  men,  and  proved  it  by  the  waving 
of  arms  and  ponchos ; and  although  they  accepted  the 
explanation,  they  still  attached  something  supernatural 
to  it,  and  informed  the  people  in  the  next  village  that 
we  had  seen  a Celestial  apparition.  I was  obliged  to 
give  a sort  of  lecture  on  the  matter  to  the  Indians,  and 
I took  the  opportunity  of  pointing  a moral,  saying  that 
every  individual  possessed  equal  attributes  for  good, 
that  miraculous  manifestations  were  not  necessary  to 
mankind,  and  that  every  one  might  possess  a halo  of 
glory  in  his  own  right,  did  he  but  strive  to  attain 


56  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

it!  This  was  well  received;  and  probably  the  Indians 
of  that  place  recollect  the  incident  of  the  Anthelion 
still,  and  the  inglts  who  conjured  it  up. 

The  incident  reminded  me  of  a former  one,  wherein 
I had  also  been  invested  with  some  “holy”  attributes. 
I had  at  that  time  a very  intelligent  mozo , or  servant, 
who  was  fond  of  reading,  and  who  had  studied  the 
Bible  — a rare  thing  in  Spanish  - American  countries. 
1 had  been  making  endeavours  for  several  days  to 
arrange  a certain  matter  regarding  the  title  to  some 
mines  with  the  owners,  who  were  principally  women, 
and  which  had  been  difficult  to  bring  to  an  end.  In 
conversation  with  my  servant,  casually,  I mentioned 
how  obstinate  these  people  were.  He  went  out  on 
an  errand  soon  afterwards,  and  when  he  returned  he 
informed  me  that  he  had  seen  the  women,  and  that 
the  affair  was  satisfactorily  arranged.  “ And  what  have 
you  told  them,  to  cause  them  to  accede?”  I asked  in 
surprise.  ”1  said,”  he  replied  gravely,  Ladies,  you 
must  concede  what  this  gentleman  wants,  because  he 
is  of  the  same  family  as  Jesus  Christ’!”  Astonished, 
and  almost  shocked,  at  this  assertion,  I commanded  him 
to  explain ; which  he  did  by  reminding  me  that  my 
name  (Enock)  was  similar  to  the  Enoch  of  early  Bible 
history,  who  was  of  the  line  of  ancestry  of  the  Holy 
Family ! 

It  is  remarkable  how,  in  such  countries  as  Peru  and 
Mexico,  as  indeed  throughout  Spanish-Amcrica  generally, 
the  persons  of  the  Holy  Family,  the  Saints,  the  Cross, 
and  all  and  every  other  attribute  of  the  religion  of 
which  they  are  part,  are  interwoven  with  the  every- 
day life  and  acts  of  the  people  of  those  regions.  It 
was  a field  peculiarly  susceptible  for  the  reception  of 
the  incidents  and  influences  of  Roman  Catholicism. 
Credulous  and  imaginative,  the  mind  of  the  Indian 
took  hold  of  its  incidents  and  attributes,  and  the 
“outward  and  visible”  forms  of  its  strange  imaginings 
he  henceforward  adopted,  and  they  are  indelibly  stamped 
into  the  regimen  of  his  existence.  Every  hill  is  sur- 


Peruvian  Travel 


57 


mounted  by  a Cross ; every  mine,  and  every  different 
gallery  therein,  bears  the  name  of  some  Saint ; every 
one  has  his  patron  saint  — his  Saints’  day ; and  every 
man  and  every  woman  carries  some  amulet  — some 
charm,  image,  or  representation,  of  cross,  or  bleeding 
heart,  or  Virgin,  or  other  holy  attribute,  which  shall 
protect  them,  they  say,  against  the  powers  of  dark- 
ness ; and  stories  and  histories  grow  about  valleys, 
hills,  and  plains,  of  miraculous  visitations,  upon  the 
smallest  pretext.  A story  among  the  people  in  some 
parts  of  Peru  is  that  about  the  painted  Christ  which 
all  could  see.  Once  upon  a time  a stranger — a painter 
— visited  a certain  village,  and  during  his  stay  he 
ascended  a hill  which  overlooked  the  place,  and  painted 
on  a flat,  vertical  rock — so  he  informed  them — a picture 
of  Christ  upon  the  Cross.  “ But,”  he  further  informed 
them,  “this  representation  has  the  peculiar  quality  that 
it  is  only  visible  to  those  of  pure  and  charitable  mind.” 
After  his  departure  the  inhabitants  sneaked  up  the 
hill,  one  by  one,  and  alone  whenever  they  could,  not 
wanting  to  be  discomfited  by  the  possible  failure  to 
see  the  representation,  before  others.  “ Have  you  seen 
the  Christ?”  and  “Have  you  seen  it?”  was  asked  among 
them.  “ Oh  yes,  we  have  seen  it ! Have  you  ? ” was 
freely  replied.  All  had  seen  it,  they  stated ; and  some- 
time afterwards  the  painter  returned.  “ Oh  yes ; it  is  a 
beautiful  representation,”  they  answered  in  reply  to  his 
questions ; but,  curiously  enough,  none  were  able  to 
give  the  slightest  description  of  the  detail  or  colours  of 
the  painting.  “ Good  people,”  at  last  said  the  painter, 
when  he  had  questioned  them  all,  “it  is  true  that  I 
painted  the  Christ  on  yonder  rock,  but  it  was  done 
with  pigments  so  rare  that  they  faded  away  before  sun- 
rise, and  before  a single  inhabitant  had  ascended  the 
hill ! ” 


CHAPTER  VI 


PERUVIAN  TRAVEL—  Continued 

On  arriving  at  the  river  from  the  plateau  where  we  had 
slept  on  the  night  previous  to  seeing  the  Anthelion,  we 
were  hungry  and  thirsty,  for  the  camping  out  had  been 
unpremeditated,  and  but  little  in  the  way  of  provisions 
carried.  On  the  river  banks  were  Indians  fishing,  catching 
quantities  of  huge  fresh-water  prawns,  or  “ Camarones.” 
A pot  was  boiling,  and  having  purchased  a heap  of  the 
Crustacea,  I had  them  plunged  in,  and  we  devoured  them 
to  our  hearts’  content,  whilst  the  mules  drank  their  fill 
from  the  limpid  stream.  The  Camarones  arc  caught  by 
the  method  of  damming  up  the  stream  by  stakes  driven 
into  the  bed,  and  willow  branches  twined  in  between, 
leaving  a small  opening  in  one  place  which  is  filled  by 
a long  taper  basket,  the  wide  mouth  up  stream.  The 
Camarones  arc  swept  down,  or  swim  along  with  the 
current,  and  are  so  trapped  in  the  basket,  where  they 
arc  promptly  bagged. 

In  many  of  the  coast  valleys  excellent  wine  is  made — 
port,  claret,  sherry,  etc. — in  the  primitive  wine  - presses. 
In  some  places  it  is  stored  in  enormous  earthen  pots, 
and  these  pots  are  worthy  of  mention.  The  art  of 
making  them  is  not  now  known  to  the  people  in  those 
places,  and  they  do  not  seem  to  know  whether  they  were 
originally  made  by  the  Spaniards,  or  whether  they  belong 
to  prehispanic  art.  Probably  the  Spaniards  showed  the 
natives  how  to  make  them,  for  they  seem  to  be  more 
or  less  like  those  of  the  land  of  Don  Quixote  de  la 
Mancha.  These  huge  pots  are  in  some  cases  as  much 
as  9 feet  high,  and  6 in  diameter,  tapering  towards 

5» 


Peruvian  Travel 


59 


the  bottom,  and  beautifully  true  in  circular  form  ; of  a 
red  clay,  and  partly  glazed.  They  could  not  have  been 
turned  on  a potter’s  wheel,  and  must  have  been  moulded 
in  some  way. 

I have  not  made  mention  of  Inca  pottery  ; thousands 
of  examples  of  these  are  constantly  found  in  the  huacas 
or  burial  places,  and  are  known  as  huacos.  They  are 
often  exceedingly  beautiful,  and  cleverly  made.  In  general 
they  take  the  form  of  vessels  for  water,  usually  of  two 
such,  joined  together,  and  ornamented  with  grotesque 
devices,  often  of  intricate  and  well-executed  moulding  or 
sculpture.  Often  they  are  in  the  form  of  birds  or  animals, 
and  a favourite  device  has  been  to  give  them  certain 
acoustic  properties,  so  that  when  water  is  poured  from 
one  to  the  other  they  imitate  the  sound  made  by  the 
creatures  they  represent,  such  as  swans,  ducks,  etc.  A 
friend  in  Huaraz  described  one  of  these,  which  he 
possessed,  and  which  had  such  lifelike  attributes  in  the 
notes  it  represented  when  water  was  poured  in — it  was 
in  the  form  of  two  ducks,  and  gave  forth  the  noise 
similar  to  two  of  these  birds  when  fighting — that  when 
it  was  made  to  operate,  the  real  ducks  outside  in  his 
yard,  hearing  the  noise,  immediately  raised  an  answering 
clamour ! I am  not  prepared  to  vouch  for  the  truth  of 
this,  and  can  only  state  that  these  clay  huacos  are 
wonderfully  made,  and  are  of  beautiful  form,  and  that 
their  makers,  both  in  these  articles  and  in  other  matters, 
showed  a high  knowledge  of  acoustics.  The  priests  of 
the  Inca  regime  undoubtedly  imposed  upon  their  votaries, 
by  this  method,  in  hollow  images  and  subterranean  altars. 

The  modern  pottery  of  the  Indians  is  far  less  notable 
or  finished  than  that  of  their  predecessors  in  the  art, 
although  on  the  high  plateau  of  Titicaca  I have  purchased 
and  seen  really  beautiful  and  ingenious  pieces  of  modern 
pottery,  made  by  the  Peruvian  and  Bolivian  Quechua 
and  Aymard  Indians.  Also,  the  Indians  of  the  interior 
are  very  clever  weavers  of  textile  fabrics,  as  coloured 
mats  and  carpets.  In  these  they  picture  the  forms  of 
birds,  animals,  and  men  and  women,  always  well  done 


60 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


and  perfectly  recognisable.  The  women  are  clever  at 
knitting.  1 have  purchased  knitted  objects  representing 
Indian  men  and  women,  llamas  with  burdens,  vicuftas, 
and  even  mountains  and  scenery,  all  reproduced  in 
coloured  wools,  and  in  three-dimensional  form — that  is, 
as  true  objects,  not  as  pictures  or  flat  representations. 
They  also  knit  woollen  caps,  which  the  Indians  wear 
over  the  head  and  ears  on  the  cold  puna , and  some- 
times with  figures  of  men  and  animals  decorating  them. 
I have  found  these  caps  very  comfortable  in  passing  the 
cold  winds  of  the  mountains,  and  a protection  against 
soroche. 

Another  branch  of  their  modern  art  is  that  of  hand- 
somely decorated  gourds,  the  “engraving”  or  decorating 
being  cut  or  burned  in.  All  these  matters  show  the 
great  patience  with  which  the  Indian  is  endowed.  What 
other  race,  for  example,  could  spend  months,  even  years, 
over  the  production  of  a single  hat,  such  as  the  best 
class  of  so-called  Panama  hats  require,  and  which  are 
really  made  by  the  Indians  of  the  northern  part  of 
Peru  and  the  adjoining  regions  of  Ecuador?  Some  of 
these  hats  are  of  the  most  exquisite  workmanship ; they 
are  made  of  the  most  chosen  part  of  the  grass  which 
yields  the  fibre,  and  are  woven  only  at  a certain  time  of 
day  during  which  a certain  temperature  exists.  They  are 
frequently  sold — this  highest  class  of  hat — for  as  much 
as  £50  each. 

The  ponchos , which  the  Indians  weave,  are  further 
examples  of  their  textile  art.  Those  made  of  vicufta 
wool  may  cost,  at  times,  as  much  as  ^20  to  ^50 
each.  The  workmanship  is  marvellous ; and  so  close  and 
careful  is  the  weaving  that  they  are  waterproof.  You 
can  hold  water  in  them  at  times,  and  it  will  not  pass 
through,  as  indeed  may  be  done  also  with  the  Panama 
hats.  They  also  weave  large  check  “tweeds,”  such  as 
might  excite  the  envy  of  the  Cockney  tripper,  did  he 
extend  his  excursions  far  enough ! 

The  Indians  of  these  countries  have  learned  to  make 
very  extensive  use  of  the  natural  products  w'hich  surround 


Peruvian  Travel 


61 


them.  The  prairie  grass  which  abounds  on  the  table- 
lands, the  ichu,  has  furnished  them  with  fuel  for  smelting 
ores,  ropes  for  suspension  bridges,  fibre  for  hats,  material 
for  rafts,  covering  for  roofs,  fodder,  and  a variety  of 
other  uses.  The  Maguey  ( agave  Americana, ),  or  American 
aloe,  known  also  as  the  Century  plant,  furnishes  them 
with  fibre  for  ropes;  whilst  the  stems,  which  grow  20  or 
more  feet  high,  form  poles  for  rafters,  or  other  purposes. 
It  is  a remarkable  thing  that  the  Indians  of  South 
America  have  never  learned  how  to  use  the  sap  or  juice 
of  the  Maguey  to  make  pulque , the  famous  national 
beverage  of  the  Mexicans,  the  making  of  which  is  such 
an  important  industry  in  Mexico.  The  plant  abounds 
in  every  valley  up  to  a certain  altitude,  and  is,  in  fact, 
known  among  the  Peruvian  Indians  by  the  name  of  Penca 
Mexicana ; and  I see  no  reason  why  it  should  not  be  used 
for  the  same  purpose  in  South  America.  I endeavoured 
to  instruct  some  persons  in  one  part  of  Peru  in  the 
matter,  but  I was  without  the  peculiar  syphon  - like 
implement  that  the  Mexicans  use  for  the  extraction  of 
the  juice — or  agua  miel , as  they  term  it.  Probably  some 
enterprising  individual  might  build  up  an  industry  in 
this  matter. 

At  present  the  Peruvian  Indian  takes  large  quantities 
of  his  favourite  chicha , or  fermented  drink,  made  from 
cereals — especially  maize — and  other  plants.  This  is  not 
a spirit ; it  is  rather  a species  of  beer,  and  is  generally 
wholesome  and  refreshing.  Unfortunately,  he  is  acquiring 
more  and  more  the  vice  of  drinking  the  fiery  sugar-cane 
rum,  whose  ravages  I have  elsewhere  described.  I recollect 
towards  the  close  of  day,  after  a long  and  toilsome  day’s 
ride,  with  only  hasty  rations  eaten  in  the  saddle,  finding 
that  my  stock  of  tea  was  entirely  exhausted — and  tea 
I always  took  in  the  afternoon.  No  matter  where  I was, 
at  the  hour  sacred  to  that  beverage,  I invariably  called  a 
halt,  and  over  a fire  of  wood  or  grass,  or  spirit-stove,  the 
non-inebriating  cup  was  prepared,  and  I arose  refreshed,  to 
conquer  further  leagues.  On  this  occasion  the  road  passed 
through  numerous  villages,  replete  with  small  tiendas  and 


62 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


chinganas , as  the  little  native  shops  are  termed.  What 
was  stacked  on  the  shelves  in  these  places?  Bottles  of 
rum — nothing  else,  generally.  Village  after  village,  and 
shop  after  shop,  I bid  my  servant  enter  as  we  passed  ; 
but  no  one  sold  tea.  Some  of  them  had  heard  of  it, 
and  directed  us  to  other  places,  where,  they  said,  it 
might  possibly  be  procured ; but  it  ever  proved  futile. 
Nor  could  they  understand  why  an  able-bodied  traveller 
should  ask  for  tea,  when  such  large  amounts  of  rum 
were  to  be  had  for  a few  cents ! 

At  last  1 called  a halt  in  a village,  around  whose 
green,  or  plaza , I saw  some  shops  of  quite  a promising 
aspect,  as  if  packages  of  tea  might  be  reposing  on  the 
shelves,  which  1 dimly  discerned  from  afar.  Alas,  vain 
hope ! At  shop  after  shop,  riding  my  mule  up  to  the 
door,  I enquired  of  the  presiding  genius  for  “Tea.”  My 
men  went  on  a similar  errand  in  the  side  streets,  with 
a like  effect ; and  as  I rode  to  the  centre  of  the  plaza , 
a small  crowd  had  collected,  curious  to  see  the  ingUs 
who  wanted  some  tea.  “ Listen,”  I said,  addressing  them, 
“ I will  give  a libra  de  oro  (a  golden  pound)  for  a pot  of 
tea ! ” I gazed  expectantly  around  after  this  rash  offer, 
which,  however,  I would  have  fulfilled ; but,  notwith- 
standing the  excitement  which  it  created,  there  were  no 
bidders,  and,  metaphorically  shaking  the  dust  off  my  feet 
of  that  place,  I departed. 

The  traveller  in  these  regions  should  not  fail  to  carry 
with  him  certain  essential  matters  in  the  way  of  provisions, 
as  tea,  coffee,  bread,  cocoa,  sugar,  and  other  matters.  Fowls, 
eggs,  cheese,  meat  and  vegetables  he  may  obtain  in  the 
villages  through  which  he  passes,  unless  he  is  in  the  heart 
of  the  No  hav  zone,  which  I have  elsewhere  described.  One 
general  axiom  may  be  borne  in  mind — that  tinned  meats 
and  other  provisions  should  be  avoided.  They  suffer  from 
two  causes : the  first  being,  especially  in  the  American 
products,  the  doubtful  nature  or  quality  of  the  material ; 
and  secondly,  the  fact  that  the  tin  undoubtedly  exercises 
a deleterious  effect  on  the  contents.  I recollect  nearly 
dying  from  excessive  vomiting  on  one  occasion,  on  the 


Peruvian  Travel 


63 


top  of  the  Andes,  due  to  having  eaten  some  Chicago 
“salt  horse,”  or  other  tinned  quadruped  masquerading 
under  the  name  of  meat ; and  on  another,  a tin  of  sardines 
rendered  me  incapable  of  action  for  nearly  two  days.  I 
will  forbear  to  give  the  names  of  the  makers  of  these, 
although  they  deserve  to  be  denounced.  The  traveller 
will  be  better  off  if  he  shuns  preserved  goods.  A diet 
of  rice,  potatoes,  and  the  various  other  native  products 
of  the  country  he  passes  through  are  preferable  to  the 
tinned  abominations  of  commerce.  Tinned  milk,  and 
meat  extracts,  such  as  “ Liebigs  ” or  “ Bovril,”  are  the 
only  preserves  which,  apparently,  can  be  used  without 
evil  effect,  and  it  is  essential  to  carry  them.  Fresh  meat 
can  generally  be  obtained  ; and  I have  often  carried  a 
slaughtered  sheep  on  the  top  of  the  baggage  mule’s 
burden,  cutting  pieces  off  when  necessary.  Fowls  can 
be  bargained  for  at  wayside  places  ; and  if  the  inhabitants 
are  too  obdurately  of  the  No  hay  stamp  and  refuse  to 
sell,  there  is  always  the  time-honoured  remedy,  if  one  is 
too  near  starving — which  sometimes  happens — of  knock- 
ing the  bird  over  with  a stone,  and  then  saying,  “ Senora, 
what  is  the  price  of  your  fowl  ? ” I have  not  employed 
this  method  exactly,  although  I have  observed  it  mentioned 
in  books  of  travel  dealing  with  South  America. 

But  I did  once  play  an  old  trick  on  a community  of 
the  No  hay  type — for  whose  invention  I am  not  responsible, 
as  it  is  based  on  an  anecdote  known  to  South  American 
travellers.  Arriving  one  evening  at  a place  of  the  No 
hay  description,  with  empty  saddle-bags,  I petitioned  the 
inhabitants  for  rice,  potatoes,  fowl,  or  anything  where- 
with to  make  some  soup.  Useless  ; they  would  not  part 
with  anything,  either  for  love  or  money ; so  I bid  my 
servant  collect  and  wash  a dozen  small,  smooth  stones. 
A pot  of  water  had  been  put  on  the  fire,  and — in  the 
presence  of  several  of  the  villagers  who  had  collected 
there — I carefully  placed  the  stones  therein.  When  the 
contents  boiled  I stirred  it  vigorously  ; and  ordering  my 
servant  to  pour  out  the  “soup,”  partook  thereof  with 
manifest  relish,  whilst  the  persons  present  who  stood 


64 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


around,  gazed  with  wondering  eyes  at  this  curious  per- 
formance. “ You  see,”  I said,  “ I am  able  to  dispense 
with  you  people’s  miserable  attentions.  Behold  and  taste 
this  excellent  sopa  de  piedras  (soup  of  stones)” — and, 
suiting  the  action  to  the  words,  I ladled  out  a cupful  and 
handed  it  round.  The  Indians  smelt  and  tasted,  and 
found  the  mixture  excellent,  especially  with  the  addition 
of  a little  salt  and  pepper.  After  concluding  my  meal, 
I ostentatiously  ordered  the  stones  to  be  thrown  away, 
and  retired  into  my  tent,  from  an  aperture  of  which  I 
watched  the  Indians  surreptitiously  collect  them  again, 
and  depart  to  their  houses,  with  the  object — as  I well 
knew— of  endeavouring  to  make  more  of  the  excellent 
soup  for  themselves  and  their  families ! But  it  transpired 
that,  notwithstanding  that  they  boiled  and  stirred  them 
vigorously,  the  water  remained  clear,  and  the  soup  refused 
to  materialise ! I did  not  find  it  necessary  to  inform 
them  that  at  the  moment  of  stirring  I had  surreptitiously 
let  fall  into  the  pot  the  contents  of  a jar  of  “ Liebig’s 
Extract  of  Beef”!  And  to  this  day  the  people  of  that 
place  speak  of  the  marvellous  sopa  de  piedras , of  which 
they  partook. 

It  was  during  this  expedition  that  I experienced  several 
narrow  escapes  of  disaster.  Our  way  lay  across  some  of 
the  vast  swamps  which  are  encountered  on  the  high  table- 
lands of  the  Andes,  and  my  guide  somehow  got  us  right 
into  the  middle  of  one  of  these,  on  to  a species  of  island 
of  unstable  matter.  There  we  remained  a moment,  seeking 
the  way  out,  whilst  the  whole  “ island  ” slowly  began  to 
sink  beneath  the  weight  of  the  mules.  One  of  the  pack- 
mules,  loaded  with  heavy  sacks  of  mineral  samples,  broke 
through  the  crust  and  began  to  sink,  the  poor  beast  making 
frantic  endeavours  to  flounder  on  towards  a rocky  pro- 
montory some  few  hundred  yards  away.  But  its  efforts 
seemed  futile ; it  sank  deeper  at  every  struggle,  and  was 
already  up  to  its  knees  in  the  ooze.  Dismounting  for  an 
instant,  I cut  the  ropes  which  held  its  pack,  and  the  sacks 
soon  disappeared  below  the  surface.  It  seemed  that  we 
might  all  share  their  fate,  for  the  whole  crust  of  the 


Peruvian  Travel 


65 


“ island  * was  becoming  submerged  ; the  black  ooze  slowly 
rising  all  around.  Action  was  necessary.  “ Seek  a way 
out  at  all  hazards,”  I said  to  the  guide  ; and  that  individual, 
who  was,  fortunately,  accustomed  to  pass  these  swamps, 
applied  the  spurs  to  his  beast,  and  leaped  towards  another 
island  similar  to  that  on  which  we  were,  for  there  existed 
a series  of  such  at  varying  distances  apart.  The  guide’s 
mule  landed  with  his  fore-feet  on  the  firm  part  and  his 
hind-legs  in  the  treacherous  mud.  A few  inches  less  and 
he  would  have  been  lost,  but  the  animal  scrambled  up 
and  regained  its  footing.  It  was  my  turn  now.  It  was  a 
long  leap  from  such  insecure  footing.  Between,  lay  the 
chasm  of  ooze  of  unknown  depth  ; but  it  was  useless  to 
ponder.  I drove  my  spurs  into  the  flanks  of  my  mule — 
the  same  good  beast  I have  before  described — and  he 
responded  nobly,  although  trembling  in  every  limb  with 
fear  and  apprehension,  for  he  knew  perfectly  well  the 
risk  he  ran.  But  like  a deer  he  bounded  over,  and  we 
landed  in  the  middle  of  the  island.  There  remained  now 
my  servant  and  the  other  pack-mule.  A riata  was  thrown 
across,  and  the  latter,  by  dint  of  pulling  in  front  and 
whipping  behind,  essayed  the  leap  and  passed  safely.  As 
for  the  servant,  the  beast  he  rode  absolutely  declined  to 
leap,  and  the  poor  fellow  protested  that  he  should  die 
there.  We  could  not  waste  time ; our  second  island  was 
sinking  also.  An  idea  occurred  to  myself  and  the  guide 
simultaneously — a riata  was  again  thrown  across,  and  my 
mule  made  to  leap  back  ; the  Indian  mounted  it,  leaped 
safely  over  the  abyss,  and  his  own  beast,  seized  with  that 
inevitable  panic  of  being  left  alone  in  danger,  which  ever 
attacks  animals,  as  it  does  men  of  weaker  spirit — followed, 
missed,  plunged  into  the  mire,  and  was  only  saved  from 
death  by  the  most  strenuous  efforts  on  our  part. 

Meanwhile,  the  weight  on  our  new  refuge  had  caused 
it  to  begin  to  settle  down  considerably.  But  Nature  had 
disposed  a series  of  smaller  islands  between  us  and  the 
rocky  promontory,  and  in  trembling  and  apprehension  we 
leaped  our  beasts  from  one  to  the  other,  landing  on  the 
quartzite  strata  of  terra  firma \ 

E 


66  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

I know  of  no  situation  so  trying,  as  the  foregoing,  of 
passing  these  swamps.  With  tight  hand  on  the  bridle ; 
spur  ready  against  the  flanks  of  the  beast ; momentarily 
expecting  to  be  plunged  into  unknown  depths  of  ooze ; 
the  animal  trembling  and  snorting  with  apprehension ; 
essaying  and  not  finding  footing ; and  then  the  leap, 
and — safety ! The  mental  strain  is  very  severe,  to  say 
nothing  of  the  physical  effort 

As  for  the  other  mule,  it  endeavoured  to  struggle 
towards  us,  sinking  deeper  and  deeper.  Notwithstanding 
the  pity  I felt  for  the  poor  beast,  nothing  we  could  do 
would  save  it,  and  we  should  only  have  uselessly  risked 
our  own  lives.  The  guide  suggested  shooting  it,  with  a 
carbine,  from  the  bank ; but  this  I forbade,  desirous  to 
give  it  a last  chance  of  floundering  out.  We  were  obliged 
to  push  on  to  water  and  fodder. 

It  might  have  been  supposed  that  the  day’s  dangers 
were  now  past,  but  fortune  seemed  determined  to  frown 
upon  us  still.  Having  left  the  swamps  behind,  the  trail 
wound  along  a steep  hillside,  and  entered  upon  the 
face  of  a precipice  formed  of  loose  and  sliding  shale, 
which  terminated  in  a roaring  torrent  hundreds  of  feet 
below.  The  track  or  path  had  been  narrowed  by  the 
rains  and  landslips  to  a width  which  rendered  passage 
perilous,  but — saving  the  way  across  the  swamp — there 
was  no  other  route.  I had  found  that  my  own  mule  had 
strained  a leg  somewhat  in  the  leaping  before  described, 
and  I had  exchanged  it  for  that  which  my  servant  had 
ridden,  whilst  he  mounted  the  pack-mule.  As  we  were 
proceeding  along  the  path,  with  the  mule,  after  the 
manner  of  his  kind — which  seems  to  prefer  the  outer 
edge  of  a precipice  to  the  inner — walking  along  with 
my  left  leg  hanging  over  the  abyss,  I suddenly  felt  his 
hind-quarters  giving  way.  Now,  I am  ever  prepared  for 
this  in  such  places,  and  always  ride  with  the  outside  foot 
loose  in  the  stirrup,  ready  for  instant  dismounting.  The 
habit  served  me  in  good  stead.  In  less  time  than  it 
takes  to  relate,  I had  swung  from  the  saddle,  as  the 
mule  went  over  the  precipice,  a part  of  the  road  going 


Peruvian  Travel 


67 


with  him,  and  leaving  me  insecurely  poised  on  a narrow 
ledge  of  rock.  I retained  the  long  bridle  in  my  hand, 
instinctively ; and  as  the  mule  slid  slowly  downwards 
amid  the  debris , I endeavoured  to  stay  him  by  pulling 
gently,  hoping  he  might  regain  a footing  on  some  rocky 
prominence.  It  was  useless.  The  bridle  strained  to 
breaking,  and  pulled  me  towards  the  verge.  I must  let 
go,  or  be  dragged  to  destruction.  I loosed  it.  The 
animal  turned  with  the  pressure  of  the  sliding  earth ; 
rolled  over  and  over  with  gathering  impetus  amid  the 
shouts  of  my  men,  who  were  in  front,  and  were  witnessing 
the  occurrence  ; gave  a final  somersault  and  disappeared 
from  view.  A second  later  a loud  splash  in  the  water 
below  announced  its  fall,  and  I discerned  its  body  befog 
fast  carried  away  by  the  whirlpools. 

I looked  around,  and  only  then  observed  that  I was 
a prisoner  on  that  rocky  ledge.  The  road,  both  in  front 
and  behind,  had  fallen  away ; above  me  was  a sheer 
rock-face ; below,  the  loose  earth  and  shale  still  poured 
gently  downwards  towards  that  fatal  verge.  What  if 
I were  to  slip  ? A vertigo  seized  me.  I clutched  the 
rock.  Ha! — was  I slipping  in  reality?  I took  a last 
glance  at  the  sky  and  cliff  overhead,  my  eyes  closed — 
and  . . . 

The  tent  was  comfortably  pitched  in  a green  hollow 
by  a clear,  trickling  stream ; and  whilst  1 lie  at  ease 
on  my  camp-bed  after  supper,  with  coffee  and  cigarettes 
at  hand,  and  my  men  smoking  contentedly  outside  by 
the  fire,  I will  apologise,  kind  reader,  if  I have  harrowed 
your  feelings  in  my  narration  of  these  truthful  chronicles. 
I did  not  fall.  I conquered  the  vertigo  by  an  effort  of 
will;  took  a running  jump,  passed  the  chasm  between 
me  and  the  road,  and  landed  safely,  and  am  now  as 
comfortable  here  as  you  in  your  armchair.  And  my 
contentment  was  increased  when  towards  nightfall  my 
men  informed  me  that  the  mule,  lost  in  the  swamp,  had 
arrived.  Doubtless  it  had  by  good  chance  struggled  to 
a rocky  bottom  and  emerged,  finding  its  way,  with  the 
sagacity  of  its  kind,  towards  our  camp. 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


68 


The  sun  set ; the  day  stars’  course  was  done.  Above 
the  faint  purple  of  the  distant  hills  the  glorious  rays  were 
flung  upwards  towards  that  calm  and  softly-glowing  vault 
of  sky  o’erhead,  and  soon,  “ heaven  spread  some  silent 
stars,  to  shew  mortals  the  way  thither.”  The  far  horizon 
— that  horizon  that  day  by  day  beckoned  me,  that  called 
me  on,  as  the  horizon  shall  ever  call  until  these  days  are 
done — took  on  the  purple  tints  of  peaceful  night ; the 
reprieve  of  action  ; the  legal  rest  of  Nature  and  of  Man. 
And  here  let  me  ask  you,  kind  reader,  to  recollect  with  me 
how  slight  is  the  distance,  how  unexpected  the  moment, 
which  separates  plenty  from  famine,  security  from  danger, 
life  from  death!  In  the  morning  the  traveller  may  be 
in  the  midst  of  flocks,  herds,  and  plantations ; at  nightfall 
upon  the  bleak  plateau,  with  empty  saddle-bags  and 
hunger  at  his  vitals.  At  one  moment  he  treads  the  firm 
highway ; the  sun  goes  down,  and  a gloomy  precipice 
yawns  before  his  erring  feet.  Now  his  heart  beats  high 
in  response  to  the  call  of  Nature  and  action  ; anon  he 
lies,  stricken  by  accident  or  disaster  within  the  gates  of 
death!  Truly  there  must  beat  within  his  breast  the 
spirit  of  the  real  traveller  — the  traveller  through  the 
abstract  as  well  as  the  material  world ; the  spirit  which 
brings  him  forth  from  the  mire  and  sets  his  feet  upon 
a rock  ; which  yields  him  a table  in  the  wilderness,  and 
which  knows  not  death  because  it  neither  courts,  nor 
fears  the  King  of  Terrors ! 


Slmvit  or  TM.  A*„„ 


CHAPTER  VII 


THE  UPPER  MARANON1 

TOWARDS  the  end  of  March,  1904,  I returned  to  Huaraz 
from  an  expedition  to  the  Upper  Maranon,  and  the  region 
bordering  thereon.  The  primary  object  of  my  journey 
was  to  examine  and  take  possession  of  some  gold  and 
quicksilver  - bearing  concessions,  which  I had  acquired 
previously ; but  in  addition  I wished  to  study,  as  far  as 
time  would  permit,  the  geological  conditions  of  the 
district,  as  well  as  to  gain  some  knowledge  of  the  ways 
of  the  natives,  and  to  visit  some  of  the  numerous  Inca 
ruins  which  exist  there. 

I have  accomplished  the  journey  from  Huaraz  to 
Chavin  in  one  day ; but  it  is  a very  hard  day’s  ride. 
The  distance  is  only  about  14  leagues,  but  the  main 
range  of  the  Andes  has  to  be  passed  midway ; and  from 
Huaraz  the  trail  rises  from  about  9,930  to  15,350  feet 
— the  summit  of  the  Pass  of  Yanashallas — and  descends 
again  to  10,500  feet  at  Chavin  : a steep  and  trying  “road,” 
where  the  horseman  is  generally  pelted  for  hours  with 
driving  snow,  and  chastised  with  the  bitter  blast. 

Beneath  this  summit,  by  means  of  a tunnel,  would 
pass  a portion  of  the  projected  Pan-American  railway 
according  to  a reconnaissance  made  some  years  ago. 

Although  the  summit  of  the  pass  is  above  the  per- 
petual snow-line,  it  is  a rather  remarkable  fact  that  the 
snow-cap  does  not  cover  the  road,  notwithstanding  that 
it  lies  on  either  hand  at  a distance  of  a few  hundred 
metres.  I have  been  informed  by  the  natives  that  the 
snow-cap  existed  here  formerly,  but  that  “ the  snow  dis- 
appears always  from  the  immediate  vicinity  when  there 
is  continued  traffic  ” ; presumably  due  to  the  continued 
1 Read  before  the  Royal  Geographical  Society. 

69 


70 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


presence  of  living  beings.  Whether  this  hypothesis  is 
well  formed  or  not,  I am  not  prepared  to  say ; but  it  is 
to  be  noted  that  the  same  circumstance  has  taken  place 
in  other  passes  which  cross  the  same  range — for  example, 
that  of  Huarapasca,  some  leagues  to  the  south,  and  which 
I speak  of  later. 

The  formation  here  is  quartzite,  which  stands  up  in 
enormous  vertical  strata ; and  lower  down  numerous 
small  lakes  occur,  generally  presenting  the  appearance 
of  having  been  artificially  dammed  up  by  embankments, 
which  are  really  moraines  left  by  the  retiring  snow-cap. 
In  this  connection  it  may  be  observed,  that,  according 
to  the  observations  of  the  people  of  the  region,  the 
perpetual  snow-cap  has  retired  and  diminished  very 
notably  during  last  century — at  least  upon  this  portion 
of  the  Andes. 

I have  again  to  confess  that  the  photographs  taken 
here  were  not  a success,  and  I must  have  recourse  to 
my  note-book  for  sketches  of  the  formation. 

Nearing  the  summit  these  roads  arc  sometimes  formed 
by  a series  of  rude  steps  excavated  in  the  rock,  or  filled 
up  of  flat  slabs  of  stone,  made  originally  by  the  Incas.1 
In  the  background  on  this  particular  summit  are  peaks  of 
pronounced  and  curious  form,  and  the  contrast  of  the 
marked  stratification  of  the  rock  and  the  dazzling  surface 
of  the  snow  is  striking.  They  are  veritable  “ pinnacles  " — 
the  termination  of  Andean  towers,  naves,  and  aisles — and 
mark  the  edge  of  stable  matter  where  it  penetrates  the 
empyrean. 

The  lake  - formation  near  the  summits  is  interesting 
as  showing  the  probable  origin  of  springs  in  regions 
below,  the  thawed  snow  entering  the  lines  of  stratifica- 
tion of  the  vertical  strata,  and  being  conducted  thence. 

These  appalling  ramparts  of  nature  tower  heavenwards 
at  all  angles,  and  frown  down  upon  the  way  in  stem 
rigidity.  An  idea  of  their  structure  will  be  gained  from 
the  sketch.  The  two  small  lakes  shown  in  the  illustration 
are  exactly  at  the  summit : the  water  - parting  of  the 
1 See  page  239. 


Chulo  Puucimiii  *mu  Hum  iHitvit,  Kluai 


71 


The  Upper  Maranon 

continent  On  the  left  side  — the  east  — the  waters  of 
the  melting  snow  gather  in  streams,  and  descend  to  the 
tributaries  of  the  Maranon,  finding  their  outlet — 1,000 
leagues  away — by  the  Amazon  upon  the  Atlantic  coast. 
On  the  right-hand  side  they  flow  to  the  River  Santa,  and 
debouch  at  Chimbote  in  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

At  the  foot  of  the  Cordillera  exist  some  thermal 
springs,  which  the  inhabitants  of  the  village  of  “ Olleros  ” 
use — very  occasionally,  I suspect,  judging  from  the  appear- 
ance of  the  latter  — as  baths.  This  village  is  on  the 
western  side,  and  is  chiefly  famous,  or  rather  infamous, 
for  its  cattle  and  horse  thieves.  I had  the  satisfaction 
of  seeing  some  of  these  individuals  taken  into  custody, 
and  as  types  of  Indian  robbers  I append  their  photo- 
graphs. Many  a sleepless  night  have  the  Indian  horse 
thieves  caused  me  and  my  men  in  the  trails  of  the 
interior,  necessitating  constant  vigilance  to  avoid  the 
robbery  of  our  animals/ 

In  some  of  the  views  it  is  observed  that  wooden 
crosses  are  placed  at  the  summits,  and,  in  fact,  the  sacred 
emblem  is  in  evidence  in  Peru,  even  in  the  most  in- 
accessible places,  as  indeed  it  is  throughout  Mexico,  and 
Spanish-America  generally.  Whether  it  be  to  indicate 
a summit,  to  mark  the  leagues  on  a mountain  road,  the 
position  of  a spring  or  well,  or  to  hold  in  reverence 
the  wayside  spot  where  some  tragedy  has  occurred — for 
it  is  used  for  all  these  purposes — the  devout  Indian  has  not 
failed  to  preserve  it  there,  where  in  silent  sentiment  it 
confronts  the  view,  and  from  the  chance  wayfarer — 

“ Implores  the  passing  tribute  of  a sigh  ! ” 

and  no  hand,  however  ruthless,  thinks  to  disturb  it. 

The  town  of  Huantar,  where  I arrived,  is  some  leagues 
down  the  valley  of  Chavin  on  the  river  Poccha,  a tributary 
of  the  Maranon.  I took  there  some  views  of  the  place  : 
a group  of  Indian  women  getting  water  at  the  well, 
and  having  their  photographs  taken  for  the  first  time 
in  their  lives ! 

This  out-of-the-world  town  of  Huantar  is  one  of  the 


72 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


most  primitive  places  that  can  be  imagined ; the  chief 
feature  about  the  inhabitants  is  the  prevailing  deformity 
known  as  Coto , or  technically  Boa'o,  and  consists  of  an 
enormous  double  swelling  of  the  neck,  which  hangs  down 
like  great  pouches.  This  strikes  pity  and  disgust  to  the 
mind  of  the  traveller,  especially  when  it  is  known  that 
the  disease  has  its  remedy  in  the  use  of  iodine,  and  results 
from  negligence  and  lack  of  initiative  on  the  part  of  the 
better  members  of  the  community.  Here  is  a field  for 
a self-denying  doctor,  who  would  sacrifice  himself  to  dwell 
among  these  poor  and  backward  inhabitants  of  this 
district ! 

Near  this  town  arc  numerous  ruined  habitations  and 
fortresses  of  the  “Gentiles,”  as  the  present  inhabitants 
of  Peru  term  the  ancient  Quechua  and  Inca  dwellers  of 
the  country  ; and  in  the  quartzite  formation  are  numerous 
silver  and  silver-lead  mines,  which,  however,  are  scarcely 
worked  by  the  modern  inhabitants.  Some  veins  of 
bismuth  arc  encountered  near  here ; coal  also  occurs. 
The  name  of  this  town  is  derived,  I was  informed  there, 
from  a corruption  of  the  Spanish  words  Aguantar  o* 
Revcntar , meaning  literally,  “Suffer,  or  burst!”  — this 
having  been  formerly  the  mandate  of  the  Spaniards  in 
that  neighbourhood,  who  forced  the  Indians  to  abandon 
their  dwellings  in  the  almost  inaccessible  hills,  and  to 
form  a town  on  the  plain  below,  the  actual  site  of  Huantar. 

At  the  foot  of  the  Cordillera  is  the  castle  of  Chavin. 
These  ruins  are  of  much  interest,  and  worthy  of  more 
study.  They  arc  quite  extensive,  principally  subterranean, 
and  have  been  built  of  squared  stones  carefully  set  I 
had  but  little  time  to  examine  these  ruins,  intending  to 
return  later.  The  portion  I examined  consists  of  a series 
of  small,  square,  underground  chambers,  communicating 
with  each  other  by  passages,  and  also  by  curious  small 
horizontal  galleries,  not  large  enough  to  admit  the  body 
of  a man.  It  is  stated  that  below  these  chambers  exists 
a similar  series ; and  certainly  upon  looking  down  a hole 
which  had  been  made,  accidentally  or  by  design,  in  one 
of  the  passages,  a space  or  chamber  was  observed.  It 


73 


The  Upper  Maranon 

is  difficult  to  know  what  purpose  these  apartments 
served ; possibly  they  were  dungeons.  In  one  of  the 
passages  is  a stone  column  with  characteristic  Inca  scroll 
carving  upon  it,  circular  in  form  — a monolith  of  con- 
siderable size.  Some  time  ago  efforts  were  made  to 
extract  this  stone,  but  it  was  found  that  it  penetrated 
the  ceiling  of  the  passage  above,  and  extended  down- 
wards, and  absolutely  could  not  be  moved.  In  the  park 
of  the  Exhibition  in  Lima  is  a large  carved  stone, 
which  was  taken  from  these  ruins  and  conveyed  thither, 
and  of  which  I give  an  illustration.  This  stone  is  about 
7 feet  in  height. 

I repeat  that  these  ruins  are  worthy  of  further 
examination ; and  some  work  and  excavation  would 
undoubtedly  disclose  matters  of  interest,  and  possibly 
unearth  some  treasure.  The  view  given  is  part  of  the 
exterior.1 

Close  to  the  castle  is  a bridge,  which  was  built  by 
the  Incas,  spanning  a stream  which  descends  from  the 
Cordillera.  The  principal  feature  of  this  structure  is  that 
the  floor  is  composed  of  single  slabs  of  stone,  about  15 
feet  in  length.  The  four  pillars  at  the  corners  are  modern, 
and  the  carved  stone  heads  built  therein  were  taken  from 
one  of  the  subterranean  chambers  of  the  castle,  and 
are  good  examples  of  Inca  carved  grotesque  heads. 

In  Huantar  I lodged  as  the  guest  of  the  gobernador, 
the  petty  authority  of  the  place.  I there  observed  the 
method  by  which  the  Indians  make  their  complaints, 
or  “ state  the  case  ” in  any  question  they  may  have 
to  lay  before  him.  Before  presenting  themselves,  they 
arrange  the  formula  in  which  the  plaint  is  to  be  delivered, 
concocting  certain  phrases  which  they  deliver,  all  in  a 
monotone,  reiterating  the  phrases  without  any  pause. 
This  in  the  Quechua  language ; and  it  lasts  some  ten 
or  fifteen  minutes,  during  which  the  gobernador  listens 
patiently  and  judicially,  and  then  announces  his  decision. 

The  complainants  may,  for  example,  have  come  to 
supplicate  for  the  release  of  some  friend  or  relative  who 
1 See  page  241. 


74 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


has  been  confined  in  jail  for  some  petty  theft  or  mis- 
demeanour, and  the  plaint  may  take  this  form  : “ Taita 
(father),  permit  that  our  dear  relative  be  released  ” ; “ Taita , 
permit  that  our  dear  relative  be  released  ” ; “ Taita”  etc., 
etc.,  ad  infinitum.  If  any  one  among  them  fails  to  perform 
his  part  in  the  chorus,  or  has  done  it  perfunctorily,  the 
rest,  upon  leaving  the  presence  of  the  authority,  fall 
upon  him  and  thrash  him  soundly  with  sticks,  saying : 
“ Thou  hast  not  fulfilled  thy  part ; thou  art  useless ! ” 

In  these  remote  towns,  the  church  and  priestly 
influence  plays  an  important  part,  and  both  are  matters 
of  wonder  for  the  foreigner.  The  edifice,  which  is 
generally  built  in  a primitive  manner  of  adobes,  is 
stocked  with  gaudy  images  and  tinselled  trappings  of 
every  description,  crude  and  grotesque.  The  day  I 
visited  the  church  of  Huantar  was  some  Saint’s  day — 
I forget  which  — and  the  building  was  filled  with 
vegetables  and  earthen  pots  of  chicha,  the  native  drink 
made  from  maize.  These  were  not,  however,  presented 
as  a harvest  thanksgiving,  but  are  placed  there  in  order 
that  “the  spirits  of  the  departed  might  not  suffer 
hunger”;  and  really,  in  the  belief  of  the  donors,  the 
comestibles  were  to  satisfy  the  hunger  of  their  relatives 
who  had  died,  wherever  they  might  be  imagined  to  be 
at  the  time.  I met  one  old  Indian  woman  as  I left  the 
building  staggering  under  the  weight  of  an  enormous 
earthen  jar  of  this  beverage — chicha  ; and  to  my  question 
she  replied  in  broken  Spanish  that  “ her  beloved  husband 
had  been  fond  of  chicha  during  his  life,  and  that  she  feared 
he  might  now  be  in  need  of  the  same  refreshment”!  It 
is  a fact  that  the  priests  permit,  and  even  encourage,  this 
superstition  in  some  places : making  use  themselves  of 
the  articles  afterwards.  When  I mentioned  this  matter 
to  the  gobernador,  he  professed  to  be  very  indignant, 
as  it  was  “against  the  civil  law,”  and  he  made  a show 
of  going — as  he  said — “to  have  the  whole  church  cleared 
out.”  I suspect,  however,  that  this  was  only  for  the 
benefit  of  the  ingUs,  and  furthermore  so  on  partaking 
of  part  of  a fat  fowl  at  table  later,  which  I thought  I 
recognised  as  having  seen  in  the  temple. 


Part  of  Subterranean  Monolith:  Castle  of  Chavin. 


C*n*i>  Inca  Sion*  iiom  Cnavin. 


r 75 


75 


The  Upper  Maranon 

To  describe  the  remarkable  customs  and  superstitions 
of  these  poor  and  backward  people  on  the  eastern  side 
of  the  Andes  would  occupy  too  much  time  and  space. 
They  inspire  me  with  pity — 

“ Knowledge  to  their  eyes  her  ample  page  ; 

Rich  with  the  spoils  of  time  ” — 

unrolls  so  infinitely  slow  for  them.  They  have  the  weight 
of  centuries  upon  them  ; dragged  down  by  the  chain  of 
deadly  ignorance  — inheritance  of  the  methods  of  their 
Iberian  conquerors. 

I now  left  the  cold  and  inhospitable  plateaux  of  the 
Andes,  and  planted  my  tent  on  a green  meadow  where 
the  Maranon  rolls  by,  where  the  warm  rays  of  the  sun 
fell  comfortingly  upon  us,  drying  our  clothes  and  bedding, 
damp  and  heavy  from  days  of  rain  and  snow. 

The  famous  fiver  at  this  point  is  small,  and  resembles 
rather  an  English  river ; whilst  overhead  are  the  azure 
areas  and  cumulous  cloud  - masses  of  a “Devonshire” 
sky.  The  valley  slopes  are  cultivated  with  maize  and 
potatoes ; and  numerous  villages  on  the  banks,  with  their 
white  walls  and  red  - tiled  roofs,  give,  at  a distance,  an 
air  of  smiling  prosperity.  This  latter  characteristic,  how- 
ever, vanishes  somewhat  upon  entering  the  streets,  when 
the  poor  and  primitive  method  of  living  of  the  inhabitants 
becomes  evident. 

I have  passed  in  succession  the  towns  of  San  Marcos, 
Puntou,  Punchao  ; the  village  and  bridge  of  Chuquibamba, 
above  which  the  first  view  of  the  Maranon  is  obtained, 
Chavin  de  Pariaca,  Tantamayo,  Yanas,  Pachas,  Ovas, 
Silyapata,  and  others  whose  names  and  altitudes  are 
recorded  in  my  note-book. 

All  these  towns,  or  rather  villages,  are  more  or  less 
of  a similar  type.  They  consist  generally  of  a small 
plaza , or  public  square,  with  the  temple  on  one  side,  and 
the  streets  set  out  squarely  after  the  usual  Spanish- 
American  style,  which  is  too  well  known  to  require 
description.  Here  the  houses  are  of  tapiales , a construc- 
tion in  which  the  earth,  wet,  is  rammed  in  between 


76 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


planks  set  upright,  so  forming  walls,  after  the  style  of 
concrete  construction.  The  roofs  are  high-pitched,  and 
covered  with  pan-tiles,  or  thatched  with  grass. 

The  bridge  of  Chuquibamba  is  on  the  road  to  the 
Montafta,  or  tropical  interior  of  the  country.  This 
little  bridge  is  a primitive  affair  formed  of  logs  covered 
with  twigs  and  soil,  before  entering  upon  which  the 
prudent  traveller  will  alight,  lest  the  horse  or  mule  he 
bestrides  breaks  through  the  fragile  covering  with  its 
hoofs.  The  altitude  of  the  river  at  this  point  is  about 
9,100  feet  above  sea -level.  The  climate  is  generally 
mild,  and  might  be  compared  to  that  of  the  south  of 
England.  The  width  of  the  river  is  generally  about 
100  feet  here,  but  at  the  bridge  narrows  between  the 
rock,  outcropping  to  a few  yards  ; the  channel,  however, 
being  correspondingly  deep,  as  shown  by  the  view  on  a 
previous  page,  which  also  shows  the  method  of  bridging 
by  corbelling  out  from  the  abutments  to  reduce  the 
span,  which  might  be  described  as  a species  of  rude 
cantilever.  The  flow  of  the  current  is  swift  at  this  point, 
and  I was  nearly  carried  away  on  one  occasion  whilst 
swimming  in  a pool  above  the  bridge.  The  flow  or 
volume,  according  to  my  gauging  in  January,  was 
approximately  30°  cubic  feet  per  second. 

The  river  is  famous  at  this  point  for  the  occurrence 
of  gold  in  its  bed.  In  fact,  the  principal  occupation  of 
a number  of  Indians  here  is  that  of  gold-washing  or 
extraction,  both  by  men  and  women.  I have,  personally, 
obtained  gold-dust  and  small  nuggets  from  the  gravel 
at  the  verge,  and  a portion  of  my  concession  covers  this 
part  of  the  river.  I have  purchased  from  the  Indians, 
on  several  occasions,  nuggets  of  gold  weighing  up  to 
half  an  ounce,  and  quantities  of  dust,  and  there  is  not 
the  least  doubt  that  wealth  is  contained  here.  Below 
the  bridge  the  river  widens  out  into  a species  of  whirl- 
pool, which,  according  to  the  Indians,  contains  a vast 
quantity  of  gold,  deposited  by  the  current.  Years  ago 
some  persons  endeavoured  to  examine  the  bed  here  by 
means  of  a diving-suit,  and,  I am  informed,  but  have  not 


Thk  Montana  : Cocainf.  Factory  of  Monzon. 


The  Upper  Maranon  77 

been  able  to  vouch  for  the  truth  of  the  rumour,  that  one 
of  them  perished  beneath  the  waters. 

The  geological  formation  of  the  valley  of  the  Maranon, 
in  this  region,  is  a talcose  slate,  occurring  in  thin  bands 
alternately  with  quartz,  the  latter  generally  stained  with 
limonite.  The  formation  has  been  much  twisted,  folded, 
and  contorted,  probably  by  “ end  pressure,”  and  the  quartz 
is  probably  an  “ after  deposition  ” between  the  laminae. 
On  the  western  summit  of  the  river-valley  is  a capping 
of  white  sandstone,  and  on  the  eastern  of  red  slate- 
quartz  conglomerate.  The  river-level  is  5,000  to  6,000 
feet  below  the  summits  of  the  valley,  in  vertical  altitude. 
There  are  numerous  deposits  of  gold-bearing  gravel  and 
conglomerate  laid  down  at  previous  epochs  above  the 
present  river-level.  Some  of  these  have  been  worked 
by  the  Indians,  by  means  of  tunnels. 

The  photograph  shows  the  bridge  and  river  - valley 
slopes  looking  northwards,  and  might  almost  be  taken 
for  a view  upon  a Devonshire  river. 

Leaving  the  Maranon,  I proceeded  eastwards  towards 
the  Montana,  arriving  at  the  lakes  of  Carpa,  only  a few 
miles  from  the  tropical  region  of  Monson,  where  there 
exist  several  factories  for  the  production  of  cocaine. 

The  view  shows  one  of  these  places,  where  the  alkaloid, 
about  85  per  cent,  pure  cocaine,  is  extracted  from  the 
coca  plant,  or  shrub,  which  flourishes  there  in  abundance. 
The  altitude  is  5,300  feet  above  sea-level. 

The  lakes  of  Carpa  are  very  picturesque,  and  of 
some  considerable  size;  the  altitude  is  11,500  feet. 

In  the  neighbourhood  of  the  village  of  Tantamayo, 
about  4 leagues  from  Chuquibamba,  are  numerous  old 
Inca  ruins.  In  fact,  all  along  the  road  from  that  point 
to  the  village  mentioned,  are  the  remains  of  the  fortresses 
and  structures  of  these  ancient  people,  crowning  almost 
every  hill.  Opposite  Tantamayo  is  a remarkable  row 
of  square  towers  on  the  summit  of  a hill ; and  as  I 
passed  they  stood  outlined  against  the  evening  sky,  weird 
and  romantic  in  their  almost  inaccessible  abandonment. 
A little  further  on  the  ruined  walls  and  towers  of  a 


78 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


whole  ancient  village  presents  to  view  at  a turn  of  the 
road,  massed  on  a sombre  ridge  on  the  opposite  side 
of  the  valley.  Above  rolled  the  sombre  night-clouds ; 
below  rolled  the  folds  of  mist  which  arose  from  the 
Marafion ; 6,500  feet  below,  the  white,  fleecy  mist  which 
only  the  midday  sun  dispels : 

“Slow  lingering  up  the  hills  like  living  things.” 

Near  at  hand  a ruined  castle  stands,  such  as  might 
have  appeared  to  the  lonely  watcher  in  “ the  valley  of 
St  John,”  where  Triermain  hurled  his  axe.  Strange  and 
romantic  are  the  situations  of  these  old  structures. 

In  the  gorge  to  the  left  hand  runs  the  Marafton,  far 
below.  The  view  is  exceedingly  picturesque  at  evening, 
but  I am  unable  to  do  it  justice  in  the  sketch  made  in 
passing,  intended  only  to  supplement  the  photographs — 
as  to  colours — which  were  spoilt  afterwards.  However,  an 
idea  may  be  formed  of  the  remarkable  position  in  which 
these  edifices  were  constructed,  and  the  very  consider- 
able altitude  at  which  their  inhabitants  dwelt.  Judging 
from  these  ruins,  it  would  seem  that  these  people  dwelt 
in  constant  fear  of  attack ; and,  in  fact,  it  is  well  known 
that  the  population  consisted  of  numerous  divided  tribes, 
who  constantly  made  war  upon  each  other.  I have 
discussed  this  in  the  chapter  dealing  with  the  Incas. 

Some  of  the  above  ruins  are  nearly  16,500  feet  above 
sea-level,  and  the  clouds  are  actually  both  above  and 
below  them  — a situation  which  is  almost  appalling. 
Notwithstanding  their  altitude,  however,  there  is  no 
perpetual  snow  in  these  situations,  and  the  hill-slopes 
have  at  one  time  been  cultivated,  as  shown  by  the 
remains  of  the  Andenes , or  old  cultivated  terraces. 

There  is  nothing  which  arrests  the  attention  of  the 
traveller  in  the  Andes  more  than  the  peculiar  aspect 
which  these  interminable  slopes  present,  due  to  this 
anterior  cultivation.  At  first  sight  he  is  unable  to 
explain  the  remarkable  “ rippled  " appearance,  until  he 
sees  that  it  is  the  result  of  innumerable  terraces,  which 
have  previously  been  small  plantations  or  fields  partly 


The  Upper  Marano.n  : Ruined  Inca  Castle. 
Sketched  on  the  spot  by  the  Author. 


The  Upper  Maranon  79 

excavated  on  the  upper,  and  embanked  on  the  lower 
side.  These  andenes,  as  they  are  termed,  have  given 
rise,  it  is  sometimes  supposed,  to  the  name  by  which  the 
Cordillera  of  South  America  is  designated — the  Andes ; 
although  there  is  another  derivation  from  the  Quechua  word 
antes , or  mineral.  Moreover,  the  evidence  of  a very  large 
anterior  population  is  ever  before  the  traveller,  in  that 
in  some  of  these  extensive  regions  every  possible  square 
foot  of  ground  is  so  terraced,  and  has  been  at  one  time 
cultivated,  however  inaccessible  it  may  appear  to  be. 
Also,  the  very  extensive  ruins  of  habitations  bear  witness 
to  a numerous  people,  whose  customs  and  methods  seem 
to  have  been  subordinated  to  the  rules  of  some  absolute, 
yet  apparently  prosperous  monarchy,  or  other  individual 
ruler. 

These  extensive  remains  scarcely  excite  the  notice  of 
the  present  native  inhabitant  of  the  country.  When 
questioned  as  to  their  age  or  purpose,  he  simply  replies 
that  they  are  “ Casas  de  los  Gentiles ” (“Houses  of  the 
Gentiles  ”),  which  is  the  extent  of  his  archaeological  know- 
ledge. He  does  not  even  search  or  excavate  in  the 
hope  of  finding  buried  treasure,  for  superstition  sc  bids 
him  reverence  these  ancient  dwelling-places  that  he  almost 
fears  to  enter  them,  and  fear,  combined  with  lack  of 
initiative,  operates  against  any  exploration.  Unfortunately, 
however,  in  some  cases  he  pulls  down  the  stones  to  form 
corrals,  or  enclosures,  for  his  cattle. 

The  river  is  so  far  below  that,  notwithstanding  the  roar 
of  its  torrential  passage,  only  the  faintest  murmur  of  its 
voice  reaches  these  “cloud-capped  towers”  above  it,  and 
indeed,  at  times,  not  even  the  faintest  whisper  breaks  the 
solitude.  Far  away,  to  where  they  are  lost  in  the  earth’s 
curvature,  arise  the  summits  of  these  endless  mountains, 
whose  successive  peaks  and  ranges  develop  their  limit- 
less and  silent  geometry1  to  the  eye.  The  fading  day 
rests  lingeringly  upon  them,  tinting  them  in  subdued 


1 Mountain  ranges  seen  from  above  present  views  of  cones  and  solids 
intersecting  with  planes. 


80 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

colours,  to  where,  in  an  indistinguishable  haze,  the  realm 
of  distance  and  of  darkness  renders  all  invisible.  The 
night  descends  as  I watch  from  where  my  tent  is  pitched  ; 
the  scene  is  blotted  out,  and — 

“ Like  an  unsubstantial  pageant,  faded, 

Leaves  not  a wrack  behind  ! ” 


The  Upper  Maranon  : an  Inca  Fortress. 
Sketched  on  the  spot  by  the  Author. 


CHAPTER  VIII 


REGION  OF  THE  UPPER  MARANON  1 

The  changes  of  climate  are  quite  marked  in  one  day’s 
journey  even,  in  the  Peruvian  interior ; the  traveller  may, 
during  the  early  morning,  be  among  the  inclement  climatic 
conditions  of  the  high  puna , or  uplands,  whilst  the  after- 
noon sun  may  find  him  where  oranges  and  lemons  grow\ 

At  the  general  altitude  of  10,000  to  13,500  feet  a 
flora  very  similar  to  that  of  the  south  of  England  is 
encountered,  and  I extract  from  my  note-book — almost 
illegible  from  being  written  on  mule-back  as  I journeyed 
along  slowly,  waiting  for  my  lagging  muleteers  — the 
following  notes  : 

“ It  would  be  difficult  to  find  a place  more  like 
Devonshire  than  some  of  these  uplands.  Here  are  the 
same  hills  and  streams,  the  same  moist,  soft,  cold  atmos- 
phere ; the  vales  of  mist  and  rushing  streams  of  distant 
Dartmoor,  except  that  these  come  from  eternal  snows 
above.  Here  are  ferns  and  nettles,  fields  carpeted  with 
buttercups  in  bloom,  and  deep  in  mossy  bank  and  beneath 
grey  stone  walls  are  violets  and  stitchwort.  I see  no  well- 
known  furze,  or  gorse,  but  the  hartstongue  fern  is  here, 
and  high  heads  of  yellow  mustard  are  in  bloom.  The 
little  plantations  of  potatoes  might  belong  to  a Devonshire 
moorland  farm,  and  the  dandelions  to  the  border  of  her 
country  roads.  The  ‘ cock’s  shrill  clarion  ’ sounds  from 
the  straw-thatched  cottages,  and  cattle  are  browsing  knee- 
deep  in  the  meadows.  But  there  is  snow  behind  the  grey 
quartzite  blocks  on  either  hand,  from  yesterday’s  storm 
upon  the  Cordillera,  and  — strange  contrast  — clumps  of 
blue  lupinus  raise  their  heavy  azure  heads  along  the  edges 
of  the  fields — often  beneath  the  shadow  of  the  mountain 
ash.” 

1 Read  before  the  Royal  Geographical  Society. 

8l  F 


82 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


And  here,  as  on  Dartmoor,  are  the  megalithic  remains  of 
prehistoric  man. 

But  there  is  little  timber ; the  quinual  and  quishua 
trees  are  those  which  principally  predominate,  and  the 
eucalyptus,  transplanted  from  Australia,  is  encountered 
in  many  places  ; some  are  to  be  observed  at  Tantamayo 
as  also  at  Huaraz. 

Continuing  my  journey  I arrive  at  the  town  of 
Aguamiro,  on  the  river  Vizcarra,  which  is  a branch  of 
the  Maranon,  where  both  men  and  beasts  halt  for  a few 
days’  well-earned  rest. 

The  Maranon  divides  near  the  town  of  Pachas,  one 
branch  descending  from  the  south,  and  the  other  from 
the  south-west.  The  former  is  the  Maranon  proper,  and 
at  this  point  is  only  about  50  miles  from  its  source — Lake 
Lauricocha.  The  latter  is  termed  the  Vizcarra , and  has 
its  origin  in  the  Cordillera  of  the  Andes,  near  Huarapasca. 

At  the  discussion  upon  my  paper,  read  before  the 
Royal  Geographical  Society,  it  was  objected  that  this 
lake  is  not  the  true  source  of  the  Maranon.  I meant  it 
in  a general  sense  ; it  is  true  that  there  is  an  entering 
stream  which  comes  from  the  Cordillera  some  small 
distance  away,  which  may  be  considered  to  be  the  further 
source. 

After  leaving  the  town — the  head  of  the  province — 
of  Aguamiro,  upon  the  Vizcarra,  I arrived  at  Huallanca — 
a small  place,  which  is  of  growing  importance,  due  to 
mining  development  and  enterprise.  In  this  neighbour- 
hood are  extensive  deposits  of  anthracite  coal  in  the 
quartzite  formation,  which  in  some  near  future  time  must 
cause  this  region  to  become  important.  A smelting  works 
has  been  established,  as  the  ores  of  copper,  silver,  lead, 
zinc,  etc.,  are  abundant.  The  coal  formations  are  very 
marked,  and  in  many  cases  stand  vertically  within  their 
enclosing  strata,  which  latter  has  been  upheaved  and  dis- 
torted. The  coal  seams  tower  up  to  a height  of  hundreds 
of  yards  above  the  river ; and  from  their  topographical 
formation  would  lend  themselves  to  economical  mining 
methods. 


83 


Region  of  the  Upper  Maranon 

Undoubtedly,  Peru  should  some  day  become  an  im- 
portant coal-producing  country — when  the  railways  are 
increased,  and  tap  the  coal-fields. 

Leaving  the  Vizcarra  on  the  west,  near  its  headquarters, 

I arrived  within  a short  distance  of  my  objective  point, 
Chonta,  when  a fierce  snowstorm  overtook  us,  and  caused 
us  to  lose  the  track.  On  many  of  these  mountain  uplands, 
or  punas , interminable  swamps  exist,  such  as  previously 
described  ; and  across  some  of  these  we  floundered  for 
hours,  nearly  losing,  on  several  occasions,  some  of  the 
pack  animals.  One  of  these  almost  disappeared  with  its 
load  in  a treacherous  place,  and  was  only  saved  by  super- 
human exertions.  Shortly  afterwards  another,  in  crossing 
a bog,  went  down,  and  in  struggling  overturned  its  load 
of  provisions  and  utensils.  Freeing  itself  partly,  the 
animal  bolted,  dragging  after  it  its  burden,  and  dis- 
appeared, in  spite  of  our  efforts  to  stop  it,  around  the 
base  of  a hill.  Whilst  the  muleteer  pursued  it,  I rode 
over  the  track  “locating”  the  utensils,  such  as  pots,  the 
frying-pan,  cups,  spoons,  packets  of  flour,  sugar,  and 
coffee,  and  divers  such  articles,  which  were  strewn  among 
the  snow.  Night  was  upon  us  ; there  were  no  habitations 
and  no  fuel  in  the  vicinity,  for  the  only  combustible  in 
the  high  punas  is  the  dried  grass.  There  was  nothing 
for  it  but  to  face  circumstances  as  they  were,  and  I gave 
the  order  to  clear  a space  from  the  snow,  and  plant  the 
tent.  The  altitude  was  nearly  16,000  feet — something 
like  3 miles  vertically  above  sea-level ! The  icy  blast 
blew  through  and  through  us,  and  the  water  poured  in 
beneath  the  bottom  edge  of  the  canvas.  Just  previous 
to  this  my  mule  had  slipped  and  fallen,  rolling  on  to  me, 
not  doing  me  more  injury,  however,  than  that  of  a broken, 
finger : the  pain  of  which  by  no  means  detracted  from 
the  discomfort  which  I experienced. 

But  the  traveller  who  has  chosen  the  winter-time  for 
his  travels  in  the  Andes — against  the  advice  of  his  friends 
— must  make  light  of  the  consequences ; and  I ordered  a 
trench  to  be  dug  on  the  upper  side  of  the  tent,  which 
prevented  the  water  entering  and  further  wetting  the 


84 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


bedding,  etc. ; whilst  the  snow  shortly  covered  the  canvas 
to  a depth  of  a foot,  and  afforded  protection  from  the  cold. 
A small  alcohol  lamp  which  I carried  for  emergencies 
afforded  the  means  of  making  coffee,  and  I was  able  to 
obtain  a few  hours’  sleep ; my  only  preoccupation  being 
for  the  unfortunate  mules,  who,  exposed  to  the  gale, 
found  but  little  fodder  for  the  depth  of  snow. 

My  three  Cholos,  who  had  been  my  only  companions 
during  this  arduous  expedition,  resisted  uncomplainingly 
the  hardships  they  were  called  upon  to  suffer.  Wet  to 
the  skin,  and  exhausted  with  the  pursuit  and  capture  of 
the  mule,  they,  nevertheless,  put  forth  every  effort  towards 
securing  the  comfort  of  their  “ patron  ” ; for  I have  always 
been  fortunate  in  being  able  to  attach  these  faithful  fellows 
to  me  by  methods  of  kindness  and  strict  justice  towards 
them. 

On  the  following  day  the  sun  shone  brightly,  and  my 
hardships  were  forgotten.  I examined  my  concession  at 
Chonta,  which  embraces  a large  area  of  cinnabar-bearing 
formation,  and  may  prove  to  be  an  important  quicksilver 
mine. 

The  altitude  of  this  place  is  14,680  feet,  and  is  stated 
by  Raimondi,  in  his  work  published  in  1874,  to  be  “one 
of  the  highest  inhabited  places  on  the  globe.”  The  mines 
were  first  discovered  in  1756,  due  to  an  order  by  the 
Crown  of  Spain  for  the  search  for  new  quicksilver  mines, 
and  in  the  past  have  produced  a good  deal  of  this  metal. 
At  present  they  are  almost  abandoned. 

From  Chonta  I obtained  a view  of  the  hills  which 
bound  Lake  Lauricocha — the  source  of  the  Maraflon — only 
20  miles  distant  from  where  I stood  ; and  on  the  south- 
west arises  a magnificent  series  of  snow  - capped  peaks, 
whose  name  I was  unable  to  obtain.  I could  not  sleep 
here  during  several  nights,  due,  not  so  much  to  the  cold, 
as  to  the  exceeding  rarefaction  of  the  atmosphere.  The 
organs  which  are  affected,  however — the  heart,  the  lungs, 
the  brain — soon  accustom  themselves  to  their  environ- 
ment. 

It  was  a source  of  regret  to  me  that  I was  unable  to 


85 


Region  of  the  Upper  Maranon 

arrive  actually  at  the  lake ; but  it  was  impossible.  Some 
of  my  men  were  worn  out  with  constant  exposure,  and 
ill  with  tercianas , or  intermittent  fever,  for  we  had  been 
out  for  many  weeks,  and  they  could  no  longer  endure 
these  high  altitudes.  The  mules  were  not  in  a condition 
to  pass  the  swamps  between  us  and  the  lakes  ; for  the 
roads,  due  to  the  exceptionally  rainy  season,  had  become 
converted  into  such ; and  the  only  fit  member  of  the  party 
was  now  myself.  However,  I had  performed  my  work 
in  the  region  — the  inspection  of  the  mines  — in  spite  of 
the  weather  ; and  in  the  proper  season  these  difficulties 
do  not  occur.  But  I beheld  the  blue  hills  above  the 
lake  as  a sort  of  “ promised  land,”  to  which  1 had  been 
denied  admission. 

From  this  point  I began  my  return  journey  to  Huaraz, 
passing  the  summit  of  the  Andes  again  at  another  point 
— the  Pass  of  “ Huarapasca  ” ; altitude,  15,760  feet.  The 
end  of  March  was  approaching ; and  the  expiring  winter 
seemed  bent  upon  expending  its  last  fury  upon  the  head 
of  the  traveller  who  had  defied  it  in  its  stronghold.  For 
eight  long  hours,  as  I passed  the  summit,  the  wind  and 
snow  and  sleet  came  out  of  the  west  in  long,  horizontal 
lines,  converging,  apparently,  upon  the  track  where  I 
descended.  For  eight  long  hours  we  plodded  on  with- 
out once  descending  from  the  saddle,  except  near  the 
summit,  to  rearrange  the  pack-mules’  burdens.  Between 
those  tearing  tempest-clouds  the  sun  flashed  out  for  one 
brief  moment,  lighting  up  that  labyrinthine  wilderness 
of  eternal  snows  — the  roof  of  the  world  — and  flinging 
strange  shadows  upon  the  appalling  terraces  of  that  vast 
solitude. 

But  the  moment  was  sufficient,  and  I was  able  to  take 
some  instantaneous  views,  and  which  show  something  of 
that  high  environment. 

It  was  but  a brief  pardon.  The  thunder  - clouds 
gathered  in  front : the  lines  of  descending  snow  increased 
again  their  vigour,  and  the  winter  lightning  flashed. 
The  gathering  volume  of  the  stream  in  front  of  me, 
which  formed  the  “road,”  hissed  angrily  as  it  brushed 


86  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

aside  the  pebbles  in  its  path.  The  scene  was  changed 
again : 

“ And  such  a change  : 

Oh  ! night  and  darkness,  thou  art  wondrous  strong  ! ” 

for  the  Andean  night  closed  in,  and  the  weary  pack- 
mules  could  scarcely  advance.  A shepherd’s  cottage — 
incredible  that  these  people  live  at  such  an  altitude — 
gave  shelter  at  length,  and  permitted  the  preparation  of 
some  “ breakfast  ” ; for  it  was  the  first  meal  of  which 
we  had  been  able  to  partake. 

But  I could  not  sleep.  The  cold  and  the  rumbling 
of  the  avalanches  on  the  peaks  behind  the  “ house  ” 
drove  sleep  away. 

At  5 A.M.  I stood  outside  the  wretched  hovel.  Will 
the  morning  never  come  ? The  cold  is  intense ; the 
breeze  freezes  my  finger-tips  and  ears,  and  scarcely  the 
faintest  gleam  comes  from  the  snow  beyond.  Will  “the 
dayspring  from  on  high”  never  visit  us?  It  comes  as  I 
stand  there ! In  the  east  a faint  light  appears  through 
the  driving  snow,  and  from  behind  a distant  hill  a tear- 
ing veil  of  cloud  makes  way  for  a lake  of  blue,  and  in 
an  instant  closes  again  as  if  reluctant  to  release  the 
firmament  from  its  dun  dominion.  Will  day  never  dawn? 
Again  the  icy  breeze  blows  past,  and  I feel  faint  for  lack 
of  food  and  sleep.  “ Get  up,  lazy  animals,  and  make  my 
coffee ! ” This  to  the  sleeping  Cholos,  who  roll  over  and 
arise. 

At  last  the  day.  I do  not  wonder  that  the  ancient 
Incas  worshipped  the  sun.  A beam  shoots  upwards— the 
arm  of  the  sun-god — a sunbeam,  and  banishes  the  hungry 
clouds  of  night.  It  grasps  the  veil  of  darkness  and  hurls 
it  aside ; the  mists  roll  off  down  the  valley ; the  eternal 
snow  upon  the  everlasting  peaks  fast  tinges  with  a rosy 
light ; the  tint  is  reflected,  is  flung  into  the  western  sky ; 
a bird  twitters  among  the  grass  and  snow.  It  is  day ! 

We  journey  onward  and  downward.  The  formation 
is  a limestone,  and  I halt  for  a moment  to  sketch  a 
huge  fossil  ammonite,  which  stands  facing  the  road  like 


Shepherd’s  Cottage  in  the  Andes. 
Sketched  on  the  spot  by  the  Author. 


86. 


Region  of  the  Upper  Maranon  87 

a stone  carved  with  an  Inca  scroll,  shown  in  a previous 
chapter. 

The  number  of  these  fossils  at  this  point  is  remark- 
able ; they  stand  in  rows  like  an  arrested  and  petrified 
“school,”  in  a marked  vertical  strata,  or  series  of  strata, 
which  run  north  and  south.  Their  diameter,  or  at  least 
of  that  I measured,  was  80  centimetres,  or  say  32  inches, 
across  the  curved  portion.  The  nucleus,  or  central  portion, 
appears  to  be  better  preserved  than  the  rest ; and  hundreds 
of  these  centres,  in  the  form  of  flattened  spheres,  strew 
the  track  across  the  formation. 

Still  we  descend,  and  the  streams  now  flow  westward, 
carrying  their  debris  to  .the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  traveller 
is  witnessing  in  these  heavy  storms  the  formation  of  new 
“ horizons,”  and,  relatively  of  course,  the  Andes  are  being 
worn  away  before  his  eyes.  The  head  of  a valley  is 
reached,  and  I am  tempted  to  sketch  some  of  the  natural 
“ reservoirs  ” or  lakes : the  remarkable  symmetry  of  whose 
enclosing  moraines  seems  the  work  of  man  in  an  artificial 
embankment.  Some  of  these  are  50  metres  high. 

There  are  three  Cordilleras  to  be  passed  by  this  route 
— that  is  to  say,  three  “ undulations  ” of  the  Cordillera  ; and 
after  two  days’  riding  we  descend  to  the  plain,  or  pampa , 
of  Lampas.  This  plain,  which  is  of  some  10  leagues 
broad,  is  remarkable  for  its  exceeding  flatness ; stretch- 
ing away  before  the  view  of  the  traveller  to  where  its 
horizon  line  cuts  the  base  of  the  hills  which  bound  it. 
It  is  of  a gravel  formation — partly  auriferous.  On  its 
south-westerly  side  is  Lake  Conococha,  which,  doubtless, 
covered  it  at  a former  epoch,  and  is  the  source  of  the 
river  Santa,  which,  as  elsewhere  described,  flows  north- 
westerly to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  down  the  valley  of  Huaylas. 
The  hills  above  this  lake  are  of  somewhat  remarkable 
forms  of  volcanic  rock,  and  various  metalliferous  ores 
are  found  there.  The  altitude  of  this  plain  and  lake  is 
13,200  feet. 

From  this  point  to  Huaraz  the  road  follows  the  verge 
of  the  river,  a distance  of  about  16  leagues,  passing  the 
towns,  respectively,  of  Ticapampa  and  Recuay,  where  a 


88 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


good  deal  of  mining — principally  silver  ores — is  carried 
on.  The  river  was  in  flood  below  the  lake  where  we 
passed,  and  one  of  the  mules  was  nearly  carried  away. 

A survey  has  been  made  for  a railway  along  this 
valley  to  Chimbote  on  the  coast,  and  its  construction 
would  greatly  benefit  the  region. 

The  buildings  and  towers  of  Huaraz,  as  I approached 
the  city,  seemed,  after  the  primitive  places  where  I had 
sojourned,  to  form  a “ grand  metropolis  ” : such  is  the 
effect  of  comparison.  The  photograph  gives  an  excellent 
idea  of  the  city  seen  from  afar.  I was  glad  to  arrive. 
I was  weary  of  battling  with  the  elements  ; my  mules 
were  in  need  of  rest  and  good  fodder,  my  men  anxious 
to  be  with  their  families.  My  spurs  were  worn  down  to 
the  rowels,  and  my  india-rubber  cape  absolutely  rotten 
with  continual  wettings ; and  the  prospect  of  a com- 
fortable bed,  clean  surroundings  and  good  food,  and 
other  usual  adjuncts  of  civilised  man,  were  most  alluring. 


City  of  Huaraz  and  part  of  the  “Cordillera  Blanca.' 


CHAPTER  IX 


LIFE  IN  THE  CITIES  OF  THE  ANDES 

% 

What  are  the  conditions  of  ordinary  life  and  its  sur- 
roundings in  these  remote  mountain  regions,  it  might 
be  asked?  What  impression  is  formed  in  the  mind  of 
the  European  traveller?  What  idea  of  “ Americanism ” 
will  he  gather  from  his  observations  of  them  ? It  is  a 
difficult  task  to  sum  them  up,  or  to  decide  what  is  their 
meaning — their  part  in  the  scheme  of  things,  except  to 
say  that  they  form  a community  in  process  of  develop- 
ment ; an  aggrupacion  of  dwellers,  at  present  ill-connected, 
with  its  destiny  still  vague  and  shadowy,  yet  not  without 
promise. 

Let  me  lightly  describe  some  of  these  places,  and 
the  people  who  inhabit  them,  and  you  may  form  your 
own  opinion,  good  reader,  upon  what  are  more  or  less 
exact  observations  and  descriptions. 

Very  typical  parts  of  Peru,  as  regards  regions  of  the 
Sierra,  are  the  communities  described  in  another  chapter, 
lying  at  elevations  of  about  8,000  feet  to  about  13,000 
feet  above  sea-level : such  cities  as  Arequipa,  Huaraz, 
Cajamarca,  etc. 

The  valley  of  Huaylas,  of  which  I have  made  mention, 
and  in  which  Huaraz  is  situated,  is  a remarkable  longi- 
tudinal valley  of  the  Andes,  running  parallel  with  the 
general  axis  of  the  range,  about  N.N.W.  Its  length  is 
about  100  miles,  its  width  varies  from  1 to  5 miles,  and 
it  is  bounded  on  both  sides  by  the  high  ranges  of  the 
Cordillera.  That  on  the  eastern  side  is  known  as  the 
“ White  Cordillera,”  from  its  snow-cap,  as  described  else- 

89 


90 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


where ; and  that  on  the  west  as  the  “ Black  Cordillera/' 
free  from  perpetual  snow. 

To  enter  the  valley  of  Huaylas  from  the  coast  port 
of  Casma  the  trail  winds  over  this  Black  Cordillera, 
reaching  at  the  pass  an  elevation  of  about  13,000  feet. 
To  leave  the  valley,  going  eastwardly  to  the  Marafion, 
the  trail  crosses  the  “ Cordillera  Blanca  ” at  an  elevation 
of  about  15,000  feet  above  sea-level. 

The  river  Santa  flows  down  the  valley,  rising  in  Lake 
Conococha,  and  emptying  into  the  Pacific  Ocean  near 
Chimbote.  This  river  appears  to  have  broken  through 
this  western  Cordillera,  in  ages  past,  turning  sharply 
from  its  course  down  the  valley,  to  the  west,  and  passing 
through  a deep  canyon  known  as  the  Canyon  del  Pato. 
The  ground  at  this  point  is  exceedingly  broken,  friable, 
and  precipitous.  Loose  cliffs,  thousands  of  feet  in  height, 
overhang  the  river — of  gravel  and  conglomerate  standing 
nearly  vertical — and  threatening  to  fall  and  block  the 
entire  passage. 

This  has,  in  effect,  taken  place  at  some  previous  time 
on  more  than  one  occasion.  A line  of  railway  ascends 
from  Chimbote  for  a distance  of  about  50  miles,  crossing 
the  sandy  coast-zone  and  entering  the  canyon.  Part  of 
this  railway  was  carried  away  years  ago,  due,  probably, 
to  a catastrophe  of  the  above  nature,  when  the  waters 
of  the  river  became  dammed  up.  I rode  my  mule  all 
day  long  over  this  ruined  railway  at  the  bottom  of  this 
canyon.  In  places  the  rusty  rails  hung  in  long  festoons 
between  the  old  abutments  of  bridges,  or  remaining 
portions  of  embankments.  Here  and  there  vast  blocks 
of  conglomerate  — hundreds  of  tons — had  come  down 
from  above,  twisting  and  distorting  the  strong  steel  rails, 
which  in  some  cases  overhung  the  torrent  like  a veritable 
road  leading  to  destruction.  Lower  down,  on  emerging 
from  this  canyon,  the  railway  is  in  running  order,  and 
passes  through  large  sugar-cane  plantations  and  haciendas , 
and  over  great  areas  of  ground  which  are  susceptible  of 
irrigation  and  cultivation. 

The  upper  part  of  the  valley  is  of  an  entirely  different 


Life  in  the  Cities  of  the  Andes 


91 


character  to  the  canyon  ; the  fall  of  the  floor  being  slight, 
and  the  ground  being  much  under  cultivation.  It  is,  in 
fact,  one  of  the  most  numerously-populated  parts  of  Peru, 
and  contains  several  important  towns,  the  centres  of  agri- 
cultural and  mining  districts. 

The  principal  of  these  is  Huaraz,  a typical  town  or  city 
of  the  Peruvian  Sierra.  It  lies  within  a broad  Campiha , 
or  cultivated  area,  watered  by  the  river.  Its  altitude  above 
sea-level  is  9,930  feet : which  in  Peru  ensures  a mild  and 
healthy  climate,  although  cold  and  rainy  at  certain  seasons. 
The  population  of  this  city  is  about  5,000,  or  about  10,000 
including  the  outlying  district.  Of  these  the  greater  part 
are  the  Cholos — the  Quechua  Indians,  more  or  less  crossed 
with  Spanish-Peruvian  blood.  The  upper  class  is  formed 
of  Peruvians  of  Spanish  descent.  The  inhabitants  live  by 
agriculture,  mining,  and  commerce  with  the  exterior.  The 
means  of  communication  with  the  coast  and  the  interior 
are  by  difficult  pack-mule  roads — mountain  paths — which 
necessarily  cross  one  or  the  other  ranges  of  the  Andes, 
at  great  altitudes. 

The  city  is  built  after  the  usual  plan.  A large  plaza 
is  surrounded  by  the  Cathedral  on  one  side,  municipal 
buildings,  shops,  and  houses  on  the  other.  The  Cathedral 
— a somewhat  high-sounding  name  for  the  adobe  structure 
with  little  pretension  to  architectural  construction — is  in 
rather  a ruinous  condition.  I was  informed  that  this 
unfortunate  condition  was  due  to  the  Bishop — who  had 
been  charged  with  the  funds  for  the  restoration — having 
spent  the  money  in  a journey  of  pleasure  to  Europe ! 

A large  Indian  population  lives  in  the  neighbourhood 
of  these  important  cities — the  usual  Cholos  of  the  Sierra, 
who  are  principally  agriculturalists,  owning  and  working 
their  small  chacaras , or  farms,  and  living  an  exceedingly 
independent  life,  as  elsewhere  described. 

On  market-days,  fairs,  and  dias  de  fiesta , or  Church 
feast  - days  — which  latter,  it  may  be  remarked,  are 
numerous — the  Cholos  and  their  women  crowd  the  place, 
lending,  with  their  bright-hued  ponchos  and  white  felt  hats, 
a picturesque  aspect  to  the  narrow  streets  and  large  plaza . 


92 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


These  feast-days  are  the  veritable  harvest-time  of  the 
priests,  and  the  Cholos  the  real  sheep  of  his  flock,  whose 
shearing  provides  him  with  no  stinted  supply  of  this 
world’s  goods.  The  “ prices  ” or  fees  charged  by  these 
functionaries  are  rigorously  exacted;  no  Indian  can  be 
born,  baptized,  married,  or  buried  without  the  necessary 
tribute.  The  greatest  drunkenness  prevails  often  upon 
these  feast-days,  which  are  fomented,  and  even  invented, 
on  every  conceivable  occasion  by  the  priests  in  order 
that  some  contribution  from  mass,  orations,  baptisms, 
christenings,  and  so  forth,  may  accrue  to  them.  The 
temples  are  open,  and  few  of  the  Indians  fail  to  enter 
and  leave  a contribution  of  some  kind. 

The  religious  processions,  especially  during  Holy  Week 
— the  “ Semana  Santa  ” — are  quite  striking  in  interior  towns 
such  as  Huaraz,  and  the  ceremonies  and  performances 
pertaining  thereto  are  perpetuated  principally  by  the 
priests  and  the  Indians  — the  better  class  holding  aloof. 
Life-sized  figures  of  Jesu-Cristo  and  the  soldier  - execu- 
tioners, arranged  as  a kind  of  tableau  upon  a platform, 
are  borne  through  the  streets  upon  the  shoulders  of 
Indians,  groaning  and  sweating  beneath  the  load,  yet 
full  of  satisfaction  from  the  honourable  and  sacred  task 
which,  from  their  point  of  view,  they  are  performing. 
Other  incidents  in  the  life  of  the  Holy  Family  are 
also  represented,  the  foremost  and  favourite  figure  being 
that  of  Maria.  It  is  to  be  observed,  in  this  connection, 
that  the  Indians  do  not  reverence  these  figures  as  such, 
but  declare  that  they  are  an  actual  personification  or 
embodiment.  Formerly,  there  was  also  a procession  of 
Seiloritas , or  young  ladies  of  the  upper  class  ; but  this 
custom  now  appears  to  be  falling  into  disuse. 

There  is  undoubtedly  a decline  in  these  old  religious 
customs  in  Peru,  some  of  which  savoured  more  of  idolatry 
than  anything  else.  There  is  some  reaction  taking  place 
after  centuries  of  priestcraft  and  the  ignorance  which  it 
perpetuates,  and  which  often  brings  into  effect  the  opposite 
extreme  of  materialism.  I was  surprised  to  find,  in  such 
a stronghold  of  Roman  Catholicism  as  Arequipa,  plenti- 


Rui.igious  Procession  at  Huakaz 


Life  in  the  Cities  of  the  Andes 


93 


fully  displayed  in  the  windows  of  book-shops,  numerous 
works  of  modern  scientists,  philosophers,  freethinkers, 
evolutionists,  materialists,  etc.,  including  those  of  Darwin, 
Spencer,  Draper,  Reclus,  Renan,  Haeckel,  Schopenhauer, 
Kropotkin,  and  many  others.  These  are  all  in  Spanish, 
cheap  paper-covered  editions,  with  good  type,  and  are 
issued  by  a publisher  in  Madrid.  It  is  by  no  means  a 
bad  sign  that  these  works  are  purchased  and  read. 
Under  any  circumstances'  it  was  inevitable,  sooner  or 
later. 

As  regards  the  processions,  they  are  beginning  to  meet 
with  disapproval,  as  before  mentioned.  I preserved  a 
rather  striking  handbill  which  was  on  one  occasion  freely 
distributed  by  some  protesting  and  justifiable  reformer. 
It  consisted  of  an  extract — in  Spanish,  of  course — from 
Jeremiah  : 

“ For  the  customs  of  the  people  are  vain,  for  one 
cutteth  a log  out  of  the  forest,  the  work  of 
the  hands  of  the  workman  with  the  axe. 
They  deck  it  with  silver  and  with  gold ; 
they  fasten  it  with  nails  so  that  it  move 
not.  They  were  made  in  the  likeness  of  a 
palm  tree  and  will  not  speak.  They  must 
needs  be  borne  because  they  cannot  go.  Be 
not  afraid  of  them,  for  they  cannot  do  evil ; 
nor  good.  There  is  no  likeness  to  Thee, 

Lord ; Thou  art  great,  and  Thy  name  is 
great  in  might.  But  they  are  altogether 
brutish  and  foolish ; the  log  is  a doctrine  of 
vanities ; every  founder  is  confounded  by  the 
graven  image,  for  his  molten  image  is  false- 
hood, and  there  is  no  breath  in  them.  They 
are  vanity  and  a work  worthy  of  ridicule ; 
in  the  time  of  their  visitation  they  shall 
perish.  For  the  pastors  are  become  brutish, 
and  have  not  sought  the  Lord.  Therefore 
they  do  not  understand,  and  all  their  flock 
shall  be  scattered.” 

I have  quoted  the  whole  of  this  to  show  the  ingenious 
selection  which  had  been  made  from  the  text  of  the  tenth 
chapter,  in  condemnation  of  images  and  priests  who  use 


94 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


them.  Any  variation  of  a few  words  from  the  English 
Bible  is  due  to  my  having  translated  literally  from  the 
Spanish,  as  the  words  seemed  more  pointed.  It  is  use- 
ful to  note,  in  this  connection,  what  an  added  meaning 
is  given  to  Scriptural  passages  by  comparing  them  in 
more  than  one  language. 

A curious  feature  of  the  interior  cities  of  Peru  is 
the  absence  of  vehicles.  There  are  no  roads  to  the 
outside  world  where  such  could  go,  and  the  traveller 
finds  himself  in  streets  where  no  wheels  rattle  over  the 
pavements.  Roads  and  railways  are  difficult  of  construc- 
tion and  maintenance  in  these  regions.  Rock  excavation 
and  terracing  along  steep  hillsides  is  expensive,  whilst 
the  heavy  rainfall  and  consequent  disintegration  of  the 
slopes  call  for  constant  repair.  The  heavy  gradients, 
also,  necessary  to  overcome  the  summits  of  the  ranges, 
renders  the  cost  of  carriage  high  in  the  existing  railways. 
Nevertheless,  if  the  inhabitants  of  these  places  possessed 
a greater  spirit  of  enterprise  they  could  do  much  toward 
bettering  their  conditions,  instead  of  waiting  for  foreign 
capital  to  build  railways  for  them.  Such  cities  as  Huaraz, 
Huancavelica,  Huancayo,  Cajamarca,  Huanuco,  and  others, 
all  important  centres  of  population  and  produce,  might  at 
least  construct  carriage  roads  to  their  respective  sea- 
ports. As  it  is,  the  existing  mule  - trails  are  not  even 
kept  in  order,  as  a general  rule.  The  city  of  Huancayo 
lies  in  a fertile  valley,  as  I have  described  elsewhere, 
with  numerous  other  towns  not  far  away,  yet  no  road 
has  been  made  connecting  them,  nor  any  vehicular 
traffic  established.  Similar  conditions  exist  with  regard 
to  Huaraz  and  the  valley  of  Huaylas,  and  a fine  road 
could  be  built  here  at  small  cost.  In  all  these  regions 
there  exists  cheap  labour:  the  Cholos,  at  small  pay, 
could  construct  these  roads,  and  the  shopkeepers  and 
merchants  of  the  cities  should  contribute  towards  them, 
if  the  Government  grants  are  not  sufficient.  Above  all 
— and  here  is  the  rub — the  funds  should  be  honestly 
administered  and  strictly  used  for  this  purpose. 

The  roads  to  these  cities  from  the  coast  generally 


05 

oi 


Looking  across  the  Valley  of  Huaylas. 


Life  in  the  Cities  of  the  Andes 


95 


ascend  the  river  - valleys,  and  wind  along  difficult  and 
precipitous  side-hills.  During  the  war  with  Chile,  and 
subsequent  occupation  of  the  country,  the  Chilian 
soldiers  invaded  all  these  interior  cities,  notwithstanding 
the  difficulty  of  access  thereto  for  men  and  cannons. 
“ How  is  it,”  I have  often  asked  the  Peruvian  of  the 
interior  cities,  “ that  this  was  possible  ? There  are 
passes  in  these  valleys  Which  the  enemy  had,  perforcej 
to  traverse,  where  twenty  resolute  men  with  a field-gun 
could  almost  hold  an  army  at  bay.”  Their  reply  is  that 
the  country  was  divided  in  civil  war  at  the  time,  and  that 
little  resistance  was,  in  some  cases,  offered  to  the  Chilian 
invasion  of  the  interior.  Apathy  and  indifference  marked 
the  behaviour  of  the  inhabitants ; and,  moreover,  the 
Peruvian  Cholo  soldier  is  not  the  equal  in  aggressiveness 
or  resistance  of  the  Arucanian,  which  is  the  basis  of 
the  Chilian  common  soldier.  Stubborn  resistance  was, 
however,  in  some  cases  offered. 

The  “ common  carrier  ” over  the  roads  of  the  Andes 
is  the  arriero , or  muleteer.  All  freighting  of  goods 
is  done  from  the  coast  by  means  of  pack-trains,  and 
the  muleteer  is  an  important  element  in  the  economic 
life  of  the  community.  Dirty,  picturesque,  and  hard- 
working, he  is  a veritable  knight  of  the  road,  charging 
all  he  can  from  you,  but  generally  doing  all  in  his 
power  to  serve  you,  with  the  exception  of  economising 
time — a matter  to  him  of  little  moment,  and  of  surprise 
that  you  should  be  impatient.  How  often  have  I cursed 
his  dilatoriness  in  getting  away  in  the  morning,  and  his 
incapacity  to  see  that  it  is  not  the  same  thing  to  arrive 
to-morrow  as  to-day ! I recollect  on  one  occasion  being 
obliged  to  waste  an  entire  morning  waiting  for  my 
arriero  and  beasts.  The  place  where  I was  staying  had 
a large  blank  wall,  painted  white,  in  full  view  of  a 
bridge  crossing  the  Maranon  river,  where  a good  deal 
of  traffic  generally  passed  ; and  I amused  myself  during 
the  lost  time  in  painting  on  this  wall,  in  enormous  black 
letters,  the  words  “ Tiempo  es  oro ,”  in  English  meaning, 
“Time  is  money.”  A crowd  of  villagers  soon  collected 


96 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


to  enquire  the  signification  and  reason  of  this  legend  ; 
and  probably  to  this  day  the  words  remain  there,  and 
are  studied  by  the  wondering  arrieros  as  they  pass  the 
bridge,  and  bringing  back  to  the  simple  people  of  the 
place  some  recollection  of  the  ingles  who  had  sojourned 
among  them. 

It  is  no  easy  matter,  at  times,  to  pass  a pack-mule  train 
upon  a mountain-path.  On  one  side  rises  the  rocky  wall, 
on  the  other  is  a sheer  descent,  and  sometimes  the  ancient 
carcasses  of  mules  far  below  are  seen,  which  have  fallen 
over,  or  been  crowded  off  the  path.  When  you  hear  the 
tinkling  of  the  leading  animal — generally  a horse — of  an 
approaching  recua , or  mule  train,  you  and  your  mule 
hug  the  wall  side  of  the  road,  and  let  the  others  pass  you 
on  the  outside,  taking  care  that  your  outside  leg  is  not 
carried  away  by  the  projecting  burdens  of  the  mules — tins 
of  petroleum  or  alcohol,  baulks  of  timber,  bundles  of 
“ Manchester  ” goods,  sacks  of  ore,  or  whatever  they  may 
be  carrying.  It  does  not  soothe  one’s  temper  to  be 
prodded  in  the  leg  with  the  corner  of  a sheet  of  corrugated 
iron,  for  example,  or  to  have  your  saddle-bags  crushed  by 
the  impact  of  a sack  of  silver  ore  ! 

However,  you  are  generally  safe  enough,  and  watch  the 
train  pass  with  interest.  The  line  straggles  up  the  steep 
path ; the  tinkling  bell  of  the  leader  gets  farther  and 
farther  away  ; the  last,  the  arriero , salutes  you  respectfully 
with  “ Buenos  Dias , Seiior ,”  and  spurs  his  emaciated  steed 
to  greater  effort  with  his  enormous  spurs.  His  method 
of  admonishing  his  lagging  pack  animals  is  curious 
and  original.  At  times  he  addresses  them  in  terms  of 
endearment  or  persuasion,  begging  them  as  a favour  not 
to  delay,  or  crowd  each  other  off  the  path.  At  others  he 
brings  forth  a long  string  of  epithets,  such  as  it  would  be 
impossible  to  reproduce  in  these  chaste  chronicles.  “ Ah 
— ill-bred  female  mule!  Ah — old  horse  of  doubtful 
ancestry ! ” and  so  on,  in  picturesque  and  descriptive 
obloquy ; and  having  at  length  exhausted  his  extensive 
vocabulary  he  winds  up  with  the  last  and  deadliest  insult 
of  all,  which  is  contained  in  the  single  word,  “ Animal ! ” 


Life  in  the  Cities  of  the  Andes 


97 


This  has  been  reserved  till  last ; and  if  it  fails  to  have  the 
desired  effect,  there  is  no  remedy  but  for  him  to  dismount 
and  approach  the  offending  animal  on  foot,  and  employ 
other  methods. 

These  interior  cities  are  much  isolated  from  each  other, 
and  from  the  coast.  In  his  journeying  from  one  to  the 
other  the  traveller  is  ever,  rising  and  descending,  crossing 
deep  valleys  and  high  ridges  along  which  the  trail  winds 
interminably.  “ One  league  an  hour  ” is  his  general 
average  rate  of  travel,  unless  the  ground  is  flat,  and  he 
is  unaccompanied  by  the  pack-mule  with  his  baggage. 
What  do  the  inhabitants  of  these  places  do  to  fill  in 
their  existence  ? it  might  be  asked  ; and  truly  there  is 
little  to  vary  the  monotony  of  time  and  circumstance  in 
those  communities.  Moreover,  they  do  not  appear  to 
be  always  sociable  among  each  other,  and  the  “ defects 
of  small  communities  ” are  noticeable  in  the  coldness 
and  jealousies  which  sometimes  mark  their  intercourse. 
However,  they  pass,  at  least,  a tranquil  existence ; and 
poverty  is  less  acute  than  in  European  or  North  American 
cities,  whilst  pride  and  snobbishness  are  not  as  marked  as, 
for  example,  in  English  country  towns. 

Hygienic  conditions  do  not  greatly  trouble  them.  The 
drains  are  open  conduits  which  are  flushed  by  a constant 
stream  of  water  diverted  from  the  river  which  flows 
through  the  campina.  Heaps  of  garbage  are  deposited 
at  the  street  corners  at  night,  and  I recollect,  in  Arequipa, 
that  bands  of  huge  dogs  surrounded  these  in  the  dark, 
almost  disputing  passage  with  the  lonely  pedestrian 
returning  late  to  his  hotel.  In  some  towns  the  wary 
traveller  will  keep  his  eye  open  for  the  possible  contents 
of  some  receptacle,  which  might  be  discharged  from  some 
balcony  near  which  he  were  passing ! I once  called  down 
the  wrath  of  some  Peruvian  friends  by  stating  that  this 
had  occurred  on  several  occasions.  They  indignantly 
repudiated  it,  saying  that  such  a thing  was  impossible  in 
a cultivated  community ; and  it  did  not  mend  matters 
when  I said  that  I had  brought  a good  strong  umbrella 
from  London,  and  should  put  it  up  when  I went  along  the 

G 


98 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


streets  of  that  particular  town  again!  Umbrellas,  I may 
point  out,  are  almost  unknown  in  Peru. 

In  the  plaza  of  these  cities  there  is  generally  a retreta , 
or  performance  by  the  band,  although  this  is  often  con- 
spicuous by  its  absence.  In  this  respect  the  Peruvians 
are  much  behind  the  Mexicans ; in  Mexico,  every  town, 
however  small,  has  its  regular  serenata  in  the  plaza.  I 
recollect  on  a certain  evening — it  was  my  birthday — in 
a Peruvian  town  where  I was  staying,  feeling  awfully 
ennuied.  There  was  no  distraction  of  any  kind  ; all  the 
good  people  were  shut  up  in  their  houses  behind  the 
customary  barred  windows,  and  for  a number  of  days 
the  band  had  failed  to  play,  due  to  the  lack  of  con- 
tributors for  its  support  among  the  inhabitants  of  the 
city.  Indifferent  as  the  music  of  these  performers  was, 
it  would  have  broken  the  deadly  monotony  of  the 
evening,  and  an  idea  occurred  to  me.  If  the  people  of 
the  place  were  too  stingy  or  poor  to  have  the  band 
to-night,  I would  have  it  myself,  on  my  own  account! 
To  think  was  to  act.  I despatched  my  boy  to  find 
the  bandmaster,  who  shortly  appeared.  “ How  much 
will  you  charge,”  I asked  him,  “to  play  me  an  hour’s 
retreta  in  the  plaza  ? ” “ Four  soles , Seftor  (about  eight 

shillings),”  he  replied  ; and  the  bargain  being  struck,  he 
departed  to  collect  his  musicians.  Having  dined,  I 
repaired  to  the  deserted  plaza  at  the  hour  I had  indi- 
cated, and  took  solitary  possession  in  the  chair  which 
my  servant  had  brought,  and  waited  for  the  band.  It 
came.  A battered  violin,  a harp  of  huge  size,  and  a 
drum,  and  a stirring  march  was  whanged  and  thumped 
out  upon  the  air.  The  effect  was  marked.  Doors  and 
lattices  were  hastily  thrown  open  in  the  houses  adjoin- 
ing the  plaza ; curious  persons  issued  forth,  anxious  to 
learn  the  reason  of  this  unexpected  and  unannounced 
retreta ; others  followed,  a small  crowd  collected,  and 
soon  pretty  girls  came  forth  to  promenade,  asking 
among  themselves  who  was  the  cause  of  the  entertain- 
ment. Afterwards,  when  the  band  made  an  attempt  at 
God  save  the  King,”  they  learned  that  it  was  provided 


Life  in  the  Cities  of  the  Andes 


99 


by  the  solitary  and  eccentric  Britisher  — the  stranger 
within  their  gates ; and  I received  various  congratulations 
upon  my  birthday  anniversary.  A dance  was  got  up 
at  the  house  of  one  of  the  principal  families,  which  I 
attended.  Some  of  my  men,  having  imbibed  too  much 
chacta  in  honour  of  the  occasion,  made  a great  disturb- 
ance in  one  of  the  fondas , or  small  houses  of  refresh- 
ment ; struck  a gendarme , who  wished  to  arrest  them, 
and  caused  a large  crowd  to  collect  in  the  street.  The 
Sub-Prefect,  who  came  to  enquire  the  meaning  of  the 
disturbance,  was  hissed  by  some  of  the  people — he  was 
not  popular — and  several  arrests  followed.  I was  obliged 
to  go  and  bail  my  servant  out.  So  that  my  innocent 
endeavour  to  break  the  monotony  of  the  evening  had 
the  unexpected  effect  of  putting  the  whole  place  into 
an  uproar. 


CHAPTER  X 


LIFE  IN  THE  CITIES  OF  THE  ANDES — Continued 

The  Peruvians  are  a hospitable  people,  as  I have  shown 
elsewhere ; and  the  traveller,  especially  if  his  errand  be 
a scientific  one,  is  well  received  by  the  people  of  the 
places  he  passes,  who  do  all  in  their  power  for  him.  At 
some  houses  where  I have  stayed,  1 have,  out  of  polite- 
ness, been  obliged  to  consume  as  many  as  five  substantial 
meals  in  a single  day,  and  I should  hesitate  to  record 
the  number  of  copas , or  small  glasses,  of  wine  or  spirit 
which  are  pressed  upon  one  on  such  occasions.  Feasts 
are  prepared,  and  the  principal  members  of  the  com- 
munity are  invited,  and  the  traveller  speedily  becomes 
the  centre  of  a group,  who  ply  him  with  questions, 
insist  upon  drinking  with  him,  compliment  him  upon 
his  Spanish,  and  enlarge  upon  the  topics  of  the  day, 
and  the  attractions  or  notable  points  of  the  neighbour- 
hood. This  is  sometimes  trying,  but  there  has  often 
been  to  me  much  of  novelty  and  pleasure  in  meeting 
these  people,  and  in  fulfilling  the  part  of  the  “dis- 
tinguished foreigner”  to  their  satisfaction. 

I have  at  times  been  called  on  to  make  grandiloquent 
speeches  in  return  for  their  compliments — a difficult  task 
for  an  Englishman.  On  a certain  occasion  a shooting 
match  had  been  arranged  between  the  civilians  of  the 
town  and  a regiment  of  soldiers  which  had  been  tem- 
porarily quartered  there.  I was  requested  to  act  as  a 
judge  or  umpire — “the  intachable  British  sense  of  fair 
play,”  as  they  kindly  put  it,  being  “absolutely  necessary” 
for  the  occasion.  So  all  the  notables  of  the  place — 
including  myself — mounted  their  horses  and  foregathered 

ioo 


Life  in  the  Cities  of  the  Andes 


101 


in  the  plaza , whence  a start  was  made  to  the  shooting 
range.  The  procession  was  headed  by  the  Prefect ; next 
came  the  Colonel  of  the  regiment — the  streets,  it  must 
be  mentioned,  hardly  permitted  riding  abreast  — next, 
myself,  followed  by  the  principal  residents  of  the  town, 
whilst  numerous  “ nobodies  ” brought  up  the  rear.  The 
inhabitants  lined  the  streets  to  see  us  pass,  and  enthusi- 
astically applauded,  arriving  afterwards  en  masse  at  the 
range  to  finish  up  anything  in  the  way  of  “ free  lunches  ” 
which  might  be  forthcoming. 

Well,  I took  up  position  as  umpire  about  fifty  yards 
to  one  side  of  the  target,  and  it  nearly  cost  me  dear ; 
for  some  wild  shooting  was  performed  by  the  civilian 
challengers,  and  just  as  a mauser  ball  sang  by  my  ear 
and  ploughed  up  the  dust  behind  me,  the  bugle  sounded 
the  note  of  “cover,”  which  I promptly  took.  This  had 
been  done  by  order  of  the  Colonel  at  the  firing  line,  as  he 
did  not  wish — he  afterwards  informed  me — to  see  me  killed. 

After  the  match  the  principal  event  of  the  day  came 
off — the  breakfast,  or  rather  lunch.  Much  eloquence  was 
displayed  during  the  terminating  champagne,  and  it  was 
here  that  I passed  the  ordeal  of  making  a speech  in 
Spanish.  Some  of  the  speakers  had  dwelt  on  the  Chilian 
invasion  and  indemnity  of  last  century,  as  they  often  do 
at  such  gatherings,  for  the  recollection  of  these  matters, 
and  the  continued  occupations  of  Tacna  and  Arica  by 
the  Chilians,  rankles  deeply  in  the  breast  of  the  Peruvian 
—their  Alsace — Lorraine.  One  of  them,  the  Prefect,  had 
made  some  kind  remarks  about  the  pleasure  they  had 
had  in  seeing  foreigners  among  them  on  that  occasion — 
remarks  which  called  for  some  acknowledgment.  There 
were  present  a German,  an  Italian,  and  a Spaniard,  all 
older  men  than  myself ; but  as  they  made  no  show  of 
getting  up,  and  as  glances  were  directed  towards  me, 
there  was  nothing  for  it  but  to  speak,  and  fortunately 
inspiration  came.  With  a wave  of  my  hand  I bid  the 
band  cease  playing,  and  summoning  my  best  Spanish, 
I briefly  spoke  of  the  pleasure  I had  experienced  in 
being  among  them,  and  then  wound  up  with  the 


102  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

following  : “ Gentlemen  ; civilians,  or  soldiers, — I have 
observed  your  unrest  regarding  your  neighbour — Chile. 

I know  something  of  that  country,  from  my  travels,  as 
I also  know  much  of  your  own ; and  I think  I see, 
with  a philosophical  eye  on  the  horizon  of  the  future, 
that  day  approaching  when  Chile  will  ask  to  be  admitted 
as  a distant  Province  of  Peru  ! " 

The  effect  was  tremendous.  Soldiers  and  civilians 
hammered  the  table  with  bottles  and  glasses,  and  the 
Colonel  came  round  and  positively  fell  on  my  neck ; 
whilst  the  glasses  of  champagne,  whisky,  beer,  brandy, 
and  every  other  alcoholic  drink  on  the  ground  which 
were  pressed  upon  me  would  speedily  have  rendered 
me  fuera  de  combate  had  1 partaken  of  them  all.  I 
was  the  hero  of  the  moment. 

Of  course,  by  this  sally,  I meant  nothing  which 
could  offend  Chilian  susceptibilities.  I referred  rather  to 
geographical  and  commercial  considerations,  such  as  a 
unification  of  territory,  or  interests  which  surely  must, 
at  some  future  date,  take  place  among  nations  of  the 
South  - American  Continent.  Also,  the  Peruvians  are 
undoubtedly  worthy  of  some  sympathy  in  the  question 
of  Tacna  and  Arica ; looking  at  it  disinterestedly. 

I fear  that  rather  too  many  healths  were  drunk  on 
this  occasion.  A great  deal  of  food  and  drink  had  been 
brought  on  to  the  ground  for  the  banquet,  and  neither 
were  wasted,  for,  possibly  on  account  of  the  jollity 
which  obtained,  the  populace  which  attended  thronged 
around  the  kitchen  afterwards,  and  made  a clean  sweep 
of  everything  in  sight.  1 saw  an  Indian  woman  and 
her  baby  regaling  themselves  with  raw  sausages  and  a 
bottle  of  champagne ; whilst  another  Cholo  improved  the 
occasion  and  appeased  his  appetite  with  a tin  of  pate 
de  fois  gras  and  sweet  French  biscuits! 

Whatever  may  be  the  disadvantages  of  living  in  such 
remote  communities  as  these,  it  must  be  conceded  that 
living  is  not  dear.  Ground  can  be  obtained  for  a mere 
nominal  price  ; building  material  is  absurdly  cheap,  houses 
usually  being  constructed  of  adobe  dug  and  made  in  situ , 


Life  in  the  Cities  of  the  Andes 


103 


and  with  roofs  either  flat  or  covered  with  thatch  or  tiles. 
Any  foreigner  with  a small  fixed  income  could  live  in  such 
towns  with  considerable  comfort — not,  of  course,  in  luxury 
— and  enjoy  distinction  socially,  and  take  prominent  part 
in  the  affairs  of  the  community.  He  could  easily  acquire 
servants,  land,  cattle,  plantations  and  mines,  create  valu- 
able properties  and  do  much  good,  if  he  were  an  educated 
and  well-disposed  person.  The  country  is  stagnant  for 
want  of  money  to  develop  it,  and  a great  deal  can  be 
obtained  for  a very  small  expenditure. 

In  these  places  anything  that  may  offer  occasion 
for  diversion  is  seized  upon.  The  people  are  fond  of 
music  and  dancing,  and  bailes  are  frequent.  I have 
often  been  pressed  to  attend  these ; and  though  I have 
protested  that  I did  not  care  for  dancing,  they  insisted 
on  my  going,  unless  I were  positively  able  to  assure 
them  that  it  was  “ mail  day,”  or  other  valid  excuse. 

“ Come,  Senor,”  they  would  often  say.  “ We  have  not,  it 
is  true,  got  the  best  whisky  such  as  you  Englishmen 
always  require  (sic),  but,  on  the  other  hand,  we  can  offer  you 
an  open  heart ; and  plenty  of  pisco  (native  grape-spirit)  ; 
and — there  are  pretty  girls  to  fall  in  love  with ! ” 

Who  could  resist  such  an  appeal  ? I go  to  the  ball. 
The  ladies  sit  on  one  side  of  the  room  on  benches 
against  the  wall,  and  the  men  on  the  other,  with  at  first 
a good  deal  of  restraint.  But  after  being  warmed  up 
by  dancing  and  the  consumption  of  copitas  of  pisco, 
the  company  becomes  much  more  animated,  and  a good 
deal  of  “ falling  in  love  ” takes  place : bright  eyes  give 
forth  expressive  glances,  hands  are  squeezed  freely,  and 
at  length  all  adjourn  to  supper,  after  which  the  dancing 
continues  until  the  early  hours  of  the  morning. 

In  Peruvian  cities,  generally,  there  are  far  more  women 
than  men,  and  the  relations  between  the  sexes  are  not 
governed  with  the  same  rigidity  as  in  Europe — a condition 
which  it  would  be  impertinent  for  the  foreigner  to  criticise, 
in  view  of  matters  of  race,  temperament,  and  general 
conditions.  In  Spanish  - America  generally  there  is  a 
tendency  in  this  respect  to  a mode  of  life  somewhat 


104 


'Hie  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


approaching  that  of  Bible  history.  Man,  in  the  primitive 
and  undeveloped  conditions  of  the  interior  communities, 
seems  to  be  called  upon  by  Nature  not  to  be  too  artificial 
or  rigid  in  his  customs ; and  to  increase  and  multiply  is 
her  first  mandate.  The  atmosphere,  the  environment,  the 
general  conditions  of  life  are  full  of  difference  to  those 
of  Europe  or  North  America,  and  do  not  fail  to  exercise 
some  effect,  even  upon  the  foreigner. 

1 have  referred  elsewhere  to  the  strong  influence  the 
Church  and  its  officials  exercise  in  these  communities : 
an  influence  sometimes  for  good,  sometimes  for  evil.  On 
one  occasion  1 inadvertently  masqueraded— -of  all  things, 
as  a bishop ! One  morning,  quite  early,  my  boy  came  to 
rouse  me,  saying  that  a lady  wished  to  see  me  urgently. 
1 arose  hastily  in  my  pyjamas,  and  covered  myself  with 
a long  black  cloak  that  I had,  as  the  morning  was  chilly, 
and  entered  the  room  I reserved  for  visitors.  An  elderly 
lady,  of  one  of  the  best  families  of  the  place,  was  there 
awaiting  me  in  the  obscurity  of  the  early  morning ; and, 
sitting  down  at  some  distance  from  her,  I put  myself  at 
her  service. 

“ Seftor ,”  she  began,  “ there  has  been  an  abduction ! 
My  daughter  has  been  taken  away  in  the  night ! * 

Surprised  at  this  remarkable  beginning,  1 remained 
silent  for  a moment.  Surely  this  worthy  dame  was  not 
accusing  me  of  having  abducted  her  daughter ! I searched 
my  memory — no  difficult  operation — but  finding  no  such 
incident  recorded  there,  remained  with  a clear  conscience 
and  an  undisturbed  and  judicial  exterior. 

“ An  abduction,”  I repeated,  “ of  your  daughter ! ” 

The  lady  replied  in  the  affirmative,  and  went  on 
volubly  to  describe  the  details  of  the  matter,  as  far  as 
she  knew  them. 

“ I regret  very  much  to  hear  of  the  affair,”  I said, 
as  she  paused.  “ Only  tell  me  in  what  way  I can  be  of 
any  assistance  to  you,  and  I will  do  anything  in  my 
power.  But  1 hardly  know  what  I can  do.” 

“ Will  you  not  use  your  influence  to  force  the  young 
man  to  marry'  her  at  once  ? ” she  asked. 


Life  in  the  Cities  of  the  Andes 


105 


“ But  I do  not  even  know  him.  I fear  it  would  be 
useless,”  I replied  in  surprise. 

The  lady  had  been  regarding  me  rather  closely  for, 
a few  seconds,  and  a light  seemed  to  dawn  upon  her. 
“ But  you  are  the  Bishop,  are  you  not  ? ” she  asked 
breathlessly. 

“No,  Madam;  I regret  to  say  I am  not  a Bishop.  I 
wish  I were,  in  order  that  I might  assist  you,”  I returned 
gravely. 

“ But,  at  least,  you  are  the  Bishop’s  secretary  ? ” she 
asked  in  agitation. 

“ I am  sorry  to  say  that  I am  not  even  the  Bishop’s 
secretary.  I am  an  Engineer,”  I answered. 

The  poor  lady  was  overcome  with  embarrassment  at 
hearing  this.  I begged  her,  however,  not  to  be  troubled 
about  it,  that  what  she  had  told  me  should  be  held  as 
confidential.  It  transpired  that  she  had  entered  the 
wrong  house — the  Bishop  lived  exactly  opposite  me — and 
moreover,  seeing  me  in  a long  cloak,  with  a shaven  face, 
and  in  the  gloom  of  the  early  morning  she  had  been 
deceived.  She  departed,  thanking  me,  and  I saw  her 
enter  the  dwelling  opposite.  The  sequence  of  the  matter 
I never  learned,  as,  of  course,  my  lips  were  sealed  against 
enquiry. 

The  foregoing  incident  had,  if  I recollect  rightly, 
taken  place  near  Carnival  time.  During  the  three  days’ 
play  and  licence,  to  which  the  whole  of  the  population 
of  the  country  gives  way  at  this  time,  many  interesting 
things  occur. 

Formality  is  much  relaxed,  especially  between  the 
sexes,  and  friends  invade  each  other’s  houses  armed  with 
squirts  containing  scented  waters ; india  - rubber  toy 
balloons  filled  with  water,  known  as  globos ; packets  of 
powders : all  of  which  they  discharge  over  each  other, 
amid  much  horse-play.  They  get  soaked  to  the  skin 
and  covered  with  powder;  especially  the  girls,  whose 
hair  and  dress  I have  seen  sometimes  rendered  a sticky 
mass.  It  is  considered  part  of  the  game  sometimes  to 
place  a young  lady,  despite  her  struggles,  in  a bath 


106  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

(where  baths  exist)  with  all  her  clothes  on,  and  turn  on 
the  tap ! There  is  one  favourable  circumstance  accruing 
from  this  temporary  state  of  licence,  which  is  that  more 
marriages  result — brought  about,  doubtless,  by  the  stirred 
blood  of  contact  in  their  friendly  struggles.  At  any 
rate,  I have  been  informed  that  the  birth-rate  sometimes 
shows  an  upward  fluctuation  at  a certain  period  after 
an  unusually  animated  Carnival  time ! 

During  these  three  days  it  is  absolutely  impossible 
to  walk  up  the  streets  of  a town,  unless  you  are  prepared 
to  be  wet  to  the  skin  and  covered  with  powder.  From 
all  the  overhanging  balconies  dozens  of  globos  are  dis- 
charged ; even  entire  buckets  of  water  and  bags  of  flour 
are  fired  at  you,  as  well  as  explosive  squibs  and  coils 
of  paper,  and  confetti.  When  these  matters  give  out, 
less  agreeable  ammunition  is  sometimes  employed. 

As  I generally  felt  little  desire  to  take  part  in  these 
boisterous  affairs,  I usually  lay  low  in  my  habitation  ; but 
one  evening  — it  was  in  Lima,  the  capital,  although 
similar  things  happened  in  the  interior  cities  — feeling 
very  ennuied,  I thought  I would  venture  out  to  the 
post  - office  for  my  letters,  hoping  by  taking  a round- 
about route  through  side  streets  to  escape  the  storm  of 
water  and  powder  I knew  was  raging  in  the  main  street. 
It  was  useless.  No  sooner  had  I sallied  forth — covered 
with  a cloak  and  an  old  hat — than  a well-directed  globo 
from  a balcony  partly  soaked  me.  The  street  was  lined 
with  balconies,  and  every  balcony  had  its  full  complement 
of  pretty  girls,  all  armed  with  ample  ammunition  of  globos. 
It  must  be  explained  that  these  missals  are  heavy,  and 
burst  upon  striking  one,  covering  you  with  water,  and 
are  capable  of  being  hurled  with  unerring  aim. 

Yells  of  delight  arose  from  the  balconies  as  I 
appeared.  What  fortunate  chance  had  brought  a nice- 
looking  Englishman  along  that  unfrequented  street?  The 
opportunity  could  not  be  lost  A veritable  hail  of  globos 
whizzed  around  me ; but  I seemed  to  bear  a charmed 
life,  and  they  only  burst  upon  the  pavement  at  my 
feet.  Seeing  that  I was  in  for  it,  I pulled  my  collar 


Life  in  the  Cities  of  the  Andes 


107 


up  and  hat  - brim  down,  and  walked  calmly  along  the 
middle  of  the  street.  Dozens  of  globos  and  bags  of 
flour  saluted  me  from  every  point  of  vantage,  but  these 
I did  not  much  mind,  as  they  generally  fell  short ; and 
the  buckets  of  water  could  only  be  emptied  upon  any 
one  forgetful  enough  to  pass  directly  beneath  a balcony : 
which  I avoided.  Towards  the  end  of  the  street  the 
fire  slackened  somewhat,  as  the  houses  were  without 
balconies,  and  here  I breathed  a moment,  deciding  as 
to  what  course  I could  most  safely  pursue  to  gain  the 
post-office,  as  I did  not  want  to  be  soaked.  The  gauntlet 
I had  run  had  been  severe,  but  was  not,  I knew,  of  the 
worst. 

Looking  up  I beheld  two  isolated  balconies  opposite 
each  other,  and  the  occupants — some  ladies  whom  I 
knew — were  making  signs  to  me  to  approach.  I did  so, 
little  suspecting  treachery,  for  as  one  of  them  laughingly 
engaged  me  in  conversation,  the  others,  without  warning, 
shot  out  a bucket  full  of  water,  which,  had  it  struck  me 
fairly,  would  have  drenched  me  from  head  to  foot.  This 
was  too  much.  Even  the  sangre  fria  of  an  Englishman 
was  aroused,  and  I decided  on  vengeance.  Calling  some 
of  the  boys,  who  are  always  about  on  these  occasions  with 
cloths  full  of  globos  for  sale,  I purchased  a large  heap  of 
ammunition,  and  proceeded  to  wage  a fearful  war  upon 
the  balconies  at  both  sides  of  me,  my  volleys  being  hotly 
replied  to  by  the  ladies.  Taking  careful  aim,  I succeeded 
in  scarcely  losing  a shot,  and  had  the  satisfaction  of  see- 
ing the  globos  burst  on  my  fair  antagonists’  heads  or 
limbs,  soaking  them  to  the  skin.  The  street  was  narrow, 
and  buckets  of  water,  globos)  and  bags  of  flours,  from 
both  sides,  freely  reached  me,  with  the  effect  that  may 
be  imagined  ; but  I waged  the  single-handed  war,  until 
a large  crowd  collected  in  my  aid.  This,  however,  seemed 
ungallant,  and  I retired,  when  the  ladies  closed  the  shutters 
of  the  balcony  windows.  I did  not  mind  the  wetting. 
I was  charitable  enough  to  know  that  I had  at  least 
afforded  them  some  sport,  for  it  was  an  unfrequented 
spot,  and,  indeed,  they  afterwards  informed  me  that  they 


108 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


had  only  had  the  opportunity  before  my  arrival  of  soak- 
ing a few  wretched  Indians  and  a postman,  and  that 
when  they  saw  me  they  were  about  to  send  out  their 
servant  to  implore  me  to  come  and  play. 

But  the  evening’s  adventures  were  not  yet  at  an  end. 
Having  obtained  my  letters,  I put  them  for  security  against 
wetting  in  an  inner  pocket,  and  prepared  for  the  return 
journey  — useless  to  look  for  a vehicle,  for  all  were 
occupied.  A favourite  dodge  of  people  in  the  balconies 
is  to  tie  a bag  of  flour  to  a stout  cord,  and  when  any 
one  passes  below  to  let  it  swiftly  down,  striking  them  on 
the  hat,  and  then  to  haul  it  rapidly  up  again.  This 
appears  to  afford  them  keen  delight,  and  many  are  the 
unwary  foot-passengers  who  are  caught  in  this  way.  So 
it  befell  me.  I felt  a stunning  bang  on  the  head,  but 
instantly  realising  what  it  was,  I reached  quickly  upwards 
with  my  stick  and  successfully  hooked  the  bag.  In  vain 
they  pulled  from  above,  and  in  vain  they  poured  down 
torrents  of  water,  for  the  floor  of  the  balcony,  under 
which  I stood,  acted  as  a shelter,  and  I retained  my 
hold.  At  last  I heard  appealing  voices,  and  peering 

upward  I saw  three  faces  bending  over — young  ladies 
again — for  women  are,  I think,  the  principal  perpetrators 
of  these  affairs — whom  I knew.  They  begged  me  to 
let  go,  as  they  did  not  want  to  lose  their  weapon.  I 
promised  on  condition  that  no  water  should  be  thrown 
as  I emerged,  to  which  they  assented  gleefully.  But  I 
ought  to  have  been  prepared  for  this  new  proof  of  female 
perfidy,  for  scarcely  had  I let  go,  still  looking  up  at  the 
pretty  flushed  faces  above  me,  when  down  came  a great 
bucket  of  water,  absolutely  deluging  me  from  head  to 
foot,  whilst  roars  and  shrieks  of  delight  accompanied 
this  treacherous  act ! 

This  was  too  much,  really.  Hastily  filling  my  pockets 
and  hands  with  globos , squirts,  and  powders,  from  a 
boy  who  stood  by,  I rushed  up  the  staircase,  and  with- 
out ceremony  penetrated  into  the  room  above.  Here  an 
indescribable  milie  ensued,  in  which  all  became  soaked, 
tom,  and  covered  with  white,  to  say  nothing  of  the 


Life  in  the  Cities  of  the  Andes 


109 


furniture.  “ Stupid  ! ” they  said,  when  I reproached  them. 
“ If  you  had  been  a Peruvian  instead  of  an  English- 
man you  would  have  known  better  than  to  believe 
a woman’s  promise  at  Carnival  time ! ” Hot  punch 
was  brought  in  as  a preventive  against  taking  cold  ; 
and  the  ladies  kindly  insisting  on  having  my  clothes 
dried  and  brushed,  I changed  them,  being  obliged,  on 
account  of  there  not  being  any  gentleman’s  garments 
available,  to  dress  myself  in  one  of  their  frocks,  in 
which  guise  I had,  perforce,  to  pass  the  rest  of  the 
evening  in  their  company.  I do  not  know  why  I record 
these  foolish  matters,  except  to  show  how  the  most 
serious-minded  and  circumspect  among  us  may  at  times 
be  drawn  into  frivolities  by  no  fault  of  their  own. 

A quaint  and  pleasing  feature  of  travel  in  the  interior 
regions  of  Peru  is  the  despedida , or  farewell  to  any  well- 
known  visitor  or  resident  who  is  leaving.  His  friends 
foregather,  mounted  on  horseback,  and  accompany  him 
some  distance  out  of  the  town,  generally  as  far  as  the 
nearest  dividing  ridge  of  the  mountains.  Idere  all  halt, 
and  the  departing  guest  produces  from  his  own  or  his 
servant’s  saddle-bag  the  liquid  refreshment  with  which 
he  has  provided  himself  for  the  occasion  : beer,  whisky, 
or  champagne,  according  to  the  occasion.  The  bottles 
are  opened,  and  healths  are  drunk  all  round,  and  often 
verses  are  improvised  about  the  city  which  lies  below, 
or  about  the  visitor,  or  any  other  conceivable  subject. 
The  empty  bottles  are  then  placed  on  the  rocks,  and 
all  take  a hand  at  breaking  them  with  rifle  or  revolver 
shots,  from  the  various  weapons  which  each  may  carry. 
The  echoes  die  away ; a last  health  is  drunk,  and  all 
mount  their  horses,  waving  a last  salute,  when  hosts 
and  guest  take  their  separate  ways ; the  former  return- 
ing to  their  habitations,  and  the  latter  descending  the 
valley  road  which  leads  him  away  to  other  scenes, 
carrying  with  him  kind  recollections  of  their  hospitality. 


CHAPTER  XI 


THE  REGIONS  OF  SANDIA  AND  CARABAYA,  AND 
LAKE  TITICACA1 

Early  in  August,  1904,  I left  Lima  with  the  object  of 
examining  some  ancient  gold  mines  in  the  interior  of 
Peru,  beyond  the  Andes,  upon  the  head-waters  of  the 
river  Inambari.  This  river  is  an  affluent  of  the  great 
Madre  de  Dios  river,  which  forms  part  of  the  fluvial 
system  draining  the  western  portion  of  the  watershed  of 
the  Amazonian  basin,  and  which,  rising  in  the  Andes 
near  the  boundary  of  Peru  with  Bolivia,  unites  with  the 
river  Beni,  and  under  the  name  of  the  river  Madera  falls 
into  the  Amazon. 

Three  days’  steaming  from  Callao  brought  me  to 
the  port  of  Mollendo,  previously  described,  whence  the 
Southern  Railway  of  Peru,  via  Arequipa,  took  me  to  the 
station  of  Tirapata,  a distance  of  337  miles  by  train. 
The  railway  crosses  the  Andes  at  a height  above  sea- 
level  of  14,666  feet  at  "Crucero  Alto,”  and  descends 
thence  into  the  basin  of  Lake  Titicaca.  It  then  runs 
north-westerly  to  the  station  Sicuani,  from  which  point 
construction  work  is  now  being  carried  out,  in  order  to 
complete  the  connection  to  the  old  Inca  capital  of  Cuzco. 
Looking  westward  from  the  railway  near  the  summit — 
Crucero  Alto  — a glimpse  is  obtained  of  the  peak  of 
Coropuna,  of  unknown  height,5  but  which,  judging  by  its 
considerable  ice-cap,  must  be  of  great  elevation.  The 
accompanying  view  is  not  taken  from  this  point,  however, 
but  from  much  nearer  the  peak,  on  a subsequent  journey. 

The  elevation  of  Tirapata,  where  I exchanged  the  train 
for  the  saddle,  is  12,731  feet.  It  is  surrounded  by  the 

1 Published  in  the  Royal  Gtograpkual  Journal. 

* Given  in  Peruvian  Geographies  as  22, goo  feet. 

1IO 


Peak  of  Coropuna. 

From  sketch  made  on  the  spot  by  the  Author. 


Sandia,  Carabaya,  and  Lake  Titicaca  111 

vast  stretches  of  dreary,  flat  land,  or  pampa , which  extend 
north-westerly  from  the  shore  of  Lake  Titicaca  along  the 
Pucara  and  Azangaro  rivers'  Save  at  midday,  when  the 
sun  shines  strongly,  the  region  is  cold  and  bleak,  and 
the  air  rarefied,  due  to  the  altitude.  From  the  same 
cause  cereals  and  alfalfa  do  not  flourish,  and  the  chief 
product  is  that  of  potatoes,  and  the  principal  industry 
among  the  Quechua  Indian  inhabitants  that  of  breeding 
alpacas  and  sheep  for  their  wool,  and  llamas  as  beasts 
of  burden. 

The  first  three  days  of  my  journey  were  performed 
over  a new  road,  which  had  been  constructed  by  an 
American  mining  company,  and  on  the  third  night  I 
arrived  at  the  town  of  Crucero,  13,800  feet.  From  this 
point  the  road  becomes  very  rough  and  broken,  due  to 
the  steep  ascent  to  the  main  summit  of  the  Andes, 
known  at  that  part  of  its  course  as  the  Cordillera  of 
Azangaro.  The  name  “ Azangaro,”  I may  mention  in 
passing,  is  that  of  a town  on  the  river  of  the  same  name, 
and  is  stated  to  be  a corruption  of  a Quechua  word, 
meaning  “the  farthest  away,”  as  it  is  supposed  to  be 
the  furthest  easterly  point — the  Cordillera — dominated 
by  the  Inca  regime. 

The  trail  crossing  the  summit,  skirts  the  shore  of  a 
large  lake — Lake  Aricoma — whose  green  and  blue  pro- 
fundity reflected  the  peaks,  covered  with  perpetual  snow, 
which  arise  immediately  upon  its  eastern  verge,  and 
whose  glaciers  give  birth  to  the  constant  streams  which 
feed  it.  The  altitude  of  this  beautiful  lake  is  about 
1 5)000  feet  above  sea  - level,  and  the  road  ascends  to 
about  16,500  feet  shortly  beyond,  crossing  a portion  of 
the  ice-cap.  I again  passed  this  point  upon  my  return 
journey,  and  shall  further  speak  of  it.  To  the  north- 
west are  seen  some  of  the  snow  - clad  peaks  of  the 
Nevado  de  Vilcanota : a colossal  range. 

This  summit  of  Aricoma  marks  the  water-parting  of 
the  continent,  the  southern  side  forming  that  of  the 
watershed  of  Titicaca,  whilst  the  northern  is  that  of 
the  Amazonian  basin.  The  usual  Andean  storm  came 


112 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


on  as  I descended ; and,  pelted,  battered,  and  soaked 
with  rain  and  snow,  I arrived  at  nightfall  at  the  village 
of  Limbani — 11,700  feet  altitude  — and  lodged  at  the 
house  of  the  gobernador.  Here  I met  a Peruvian 
engineer,  bound  for  the  same  place  as  myself,  and  we 
decided  to  make  the  journey  in  company,  to  my  objec- 
tive point,  known  as  Aporama , where  the  gold  mines  are 
found.  Near  Limbani  are  grottoes  containing  mummies, 
which  1 regret  1 had  not  time  to  examine.  I was  informed 
that  the  mummies  exist  in  a sitting  posture. 

Having  overcome  the  difficulties  and  delays  which  are 
the  invariable  accompaniment  of  the  organising  of  an 
expedition  in  Peru,  we  set  out  in  the  early  morning  on 
the  last  day  of  August.  The  expedition  included  ten 
Indians,  armed  with  machetes,  etc.,  and  carrying  heavy 
packs  consisting  of  our  bedding,  implements,  and  food 
for  three  weeks’  journey ; for  the  route  lay  through  an 
uninhabited  region  where  no  supplies  could  be  obtained. 
Nine  of  these  Indians  were  the  usual  Cholos  of  the 
Sierra,  whilst  the  tenth  was  a Chuncho , of  the — reputedly 
— cannibal  tribe  of  that  name,  inhabiting  the  far  interior 
of  the  Montafta.  Nevertheless,  the  Chuncho,  having  come 
to  the  Sierra  when  comparatively  young,  had  become 
somewhat  civilised,  and  was,  moreover,  almost  the  only 
one  among  them  who  could  speak  or  understand  a little 
Spanish. 

I had  taken  a consensus  of  opinion  as  to  the  route 
it  would  be  necessary  to  traverse,  and  as  a result  decided 
to  go  on  foot — a proceeding  which  I found  to  have  been 
wise,  as  the  trails  were  impossible  in  places  for  horses  or 
mules.  Our  way  lay  at  first  along  the  river  Limbani, 
and  leaving  this  the  trail  wound  up  a long,  steep  ridge 
to  a height  of  13,500  feet.  The  granite  formation  at 
Limbani  had  now  changed  to  a slate,  and  gold-bearing 
quartz  lodes  are  encountered  in  the  region.  Having 
crossed  the  high  ridge,  slowly  and  with  frequent  halts, 
for  the  rarefied  air  of  that  altitude  renders  walking 
fatiguing  and  the  work  upon  the  lungs  severe,  we 
descended  the  difficult  zigzag  and  scarcely  visible  trail 


Sandia,  Carabaya,  and  Lake  Titicaca  113 

to  a grass-covered  valley  below,  and  slept  in  a tambo , 
upon  the  banks  of  a stream  near  a small  Indian  village 
known  as  Cutani.  A tambo  is  a building  which  serves 
for  the  common  accommodation  of  travellers,  and  a few 
of  these  huts — for  they  are  nothing  more — are  maintained 
in  one  or  two  places  in  Peru  by  local  authorities  for 
that  purpose,  although,  unfortunately,  they  are  very  scarce, 
notwithstanding  that  routes  of  travel  often  pass  through 
uninhabited  regions. 

Poor  as  was  this  tambo , its  roof  was  water-proof,  and 
there  was  some  dry  firewood  inside,  which  ensured  supper 
and  a dry  bed.  For  many  subsequent  nights  these 
desirable  adjuncts  were  only  obtained  with  considerable 
difficulty,  as,  in  order  to  sleep  within  a hut  of  any 
description,  this  had  first  to  be  constructed. 

The  progress  of  the  party  was,  as  regards  actual 
leagues  covered,  relatively  slow,  for  the  Indian  carriers 
were  rather  heavily  laden,  and  my  companion,  moreover, 
was  not  a rapid  pedestrian.  I frequently  found  myself 
far  in  advance  of  the  rest  of  the  party,  alone  in  those 
strange  and  untravelled  solitudes  of  the  Andes,  upon 
the  border  of  the  mysterious  Montana. 

The  descent  of  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Andes  is 
rapid,  and  the  change  of  temperature  as  the  traveller 
approaches  the  region  of  the  forests  very  noticeable. 
At  the  end  of  the  second  day  I found  myself  alone, 
following  the  trail  along  what  appeared  to  be  the  back 
of  a high,  sharp  ridge ; for  the  heavens  were  entirely 
obscured  in  a thick,  warm  mist,  and  the  landscape 
entirely  shut  out  from  view.  Looking  through  the 
bushes  on  either  hand,  it  was  apparent  that  the  ground 
descended  precipitously  on  both  sides,  and,  indeed,  on 
the  right  hand  I could  hear,  as  if  far  below,  the  murmur 
of  running  water.  This  I knew  to  be  the  river  Pacchani, 
which  rises  in  the  Cordillera  and  empties  into  the 
Huari-huari,  and  so  into  the  Inambari  river,  before 
mentioned. 

The  mist  panoramas  in  these  regions  are  remarkable 
at  certain  seasons,  and  the  rains  are  heavy  and  continuous 

H 


114  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

after  midday.  I sat  down  and  waited  for  the  rest  of  the 
party,  and  as  soon  as  the  Indians  approached  set  them 
to  work  in  cutting  boughs  and  building  a shelter  for  the 
night  on  the  only  spot  available — a small  ledge  of  rock 
about  6 feet  wide,  with  an  abrupt  precipice  of  some 
thousands  of  feet  of  sheer  descent  into  the  river  below, 
and  over  which  our  feet  almost  hung  as  we  lay  down 
to  sleep  upon  our  blankets. 

For  two  days  more  we  pursued  our  journey,  the  rain 
pouring  down  upon  us  incessantly.  The  “ trail” — if  by 
courtesy  I may  term  it  such — passed  at  times  through  a 
series  of  rock  - basins  worn  in  the  slate,  and  progress 
was  made  through  them  as  through  a succession  of 
“baths,”  for  they  were  full  of  water  from  the  rain.  I 
made  no  pretence  of  keeping  dry ; it  was  impossible 
during  the  march,  for,  apart  from  the  “baths”  underfoot, 
the  vegetation  met  overhead,  and  being  loaded  with 
water  sent  down  its  showers  at  every  step.  Impatient 
of  the  wearied  Indian  bearers,  I carried  a machete  in 
my  hand,  and  often  was  obliged  to  carve  a way  through 
the  thick  growth  of  the  brushwood  which  covered  the 
old  trail,  for  we  had  now  left  the  open  slopes  of  the 
Cordillera,  and  entered  upon  the  upper  edge  of  the 
Montana,  or  region  of  forests. 

The  altitude  at  which  this  vegetation  begins  is  from 
10,000  to  ii.ooo  feet  above  sea-level,  and  the  line  of 
demarcation  is  strongly  noticeable.  Above  are  the  slopes 
and  valleys  of  the  pajonales , or  grass-covered  areas,  free 
of  trees  of  any  description ; whilst  below  the  traveller 
enters  among  thickets  of  tangled  brushwood  of  all 
kinds,  and  in  places  of  beautiful  flowering  shrubs.  As 
he  pursues  his  journey  onward  and  downward  palms 
and  tree-ferns  appear,  the  atmosphere  becomes  warmer, 
the  mists  lie  heavier,  and  the  silence  is  broken  only 
by  the  patter  and  fall  of  the  heavy  water-drops  from 
the  boughs  above.  Scarcely  a living  thing  appears  to 
inhabit  this  upper  fringe  of  the  tropical  Mofitana.  There 
are  no  monkeys,  no  snakes,  no  birds,  and  very  few  insects. 
An  occasional  puma  is  heard,  and  at  times  the  swish  of 


* 


Oi.d  Gold  Mines  of  Apokoma. 


Sandia,  Carabaya,  and  Lake  Titicaca  115 

condorian  wings  in  the  ambient  above;  but  Nature  here 
is  in  a changing  phase,  and  her  profusion  of  animal  life 
seems  to  be  reserved  for  the  more  tropical  interior,  still 
many  leagues  away  towards  the  sunrise. 

At  times  the  mists  lifted  for  brief  moments,  and  gave 
me  glimpses  of  far-reaching  tree-clad  slopes  divided  by 
profound  valleys,  stretching  away  into  the  vast  Amazonian 
basin.  At  a turn  of  the  trail,  which  brought  me  out 
upon  the  brow  of  a hill,  I beheld  a cascade  on  the 
opposing  slope  of  a valley — a high,  white,  lace-like  fall 
among  the  green  background  of  the  branches ; and  I 
hailed  it  with  satisfaction,  for,  from  descriptions  of  the 
place,  I knew  it  to  be  not  far  from  the  point  of  my 
destination.  It  forms  the  source  of  a small  river,  the 
Puli-puli,  which  runs  close  to  the  mines  of  Aporoma. 

Difficult  as  the  trail  had  been,  it  nevertheless  bore 
witness  to  the  considerable  work  which  had  at  one  time 
been  carried  on  at  these  mines,  for  long  portions  of  it 
were  constructed  of  slabs  of  stone  placed  in  the  form 
of  steps,  and  must  have  been  made  at  considerable 
expense  in  the  past  centuries  when  the  mines  were 
worked,  first  by  the  Incas,  and  later  by  the  Spaniards, 
for  these  latter  did  but  work  on  a larger  scale,  in  many 
cases,  what  the  former  had  previously  discovered  and 
used,  as  elsewhere  described. 

At  length,  after  more  than  four  days  on  foot  from 
Limbani,  and  sleeping  and  eating  under  difficulties,  we 
arrived  at  Aporoma.  It  was  already  evening ; the  rain 
was  falling  heavily,  as  usual,  and  there  was  no  habita- 
tion or  living  being  in  the  vicinity,  notwithstanding  that 
in  bygone  ages  it  had  been  the  scene  of  the  activity  of 
thousands  of  workers,  and  that  a village  had  existed 
there.  But  after  diligent  search  among  the  vegetation, 
in  a spot  which  the  Indian  guide — with  that  strongly- 
developed  faculty  for  locality  which  his  kind  possesses — 
had  stated  as  being  the  site  of  the  former  house  near 
which  he  had  worked  when  a boy,  the  walls  of  a 
habitation  were  discovered.  Animating  all  hands,  I 
directed  the  clearing  away  of  the  heavy  growth  of 


116  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

vegetation  which  cumbered  them,  and  within  a couple 
of  hours  the  interior  was  free ; a durable  roof,  composed 
of  strong  branches  covered  deep  with  leaves  and  grass 
was  constructed  upon  the  walls ; our  beds  were  arranged 
upon  a floor-covering  of  aromatic  boughs,  and  a fire  was 
kindled  in  one  comer ; so  that  we  were  able  to  con- 
template the  coming  night  with  something  of  equanimity. 
The  altitude  at  this  point  was  about  7,200  feet;  the 
temperature  at  8 P.M.,  46°  Fahr.,  and  at  3 P.M.,  in  the 
afternoon,  6o°  Fahr. 

The  mines  are  worthy  of  description.  They  consist 
of  a large  area  between  the  rivers  Huayna,  or  Puli-puli, 
and  Pacchani,  of  Tertiary  gravel : the  bed  of  an  ancient 
river,  upheaved  by  some  eruptive  action,  probably,  and 
resting  upon  a bed-rock  of  clay  - slate.  As  previously 
stated,  they  were  worked  many  years  ago  as  open  placer 
mines.  Conduits  and  sluices  were  constructed  of  stone, 
and  tunnels  through  the  gravel  banks,  and  various  other 
works,  which  in  some  ancient  records  are  stated  to  have 
cost  a sum  equal  to  more  than  half  a million  pounds. 
Vast  quantities  of  gold  were  extracted,  and  the  old 
workings — very  extensive — attest  the  activity  which  was 
displayed.  A “grant”  of  six  thousand  Indians  was 
“ spent,”  it  is  stated,  upon  this  work,  by  a Spanish 
viceroy,  and  much  of  the  gold  extracted  went  to  Spain. 
The  “grant”  of  Indians  principally  left  its  bones  in 
the  vicinity  of  its  toil ; decimation  of  the  population 
came  about  by  rebellion,  greed,  and  avarice ; abandon- 
ment followed ; and  Nature  presently  covered  up  the 
scarred  evidences  of  mans  transitory  handiwork  with 
her  generous  robes  of  flower  and  foliage. 

I penetrated  some  leagues  further  into  the  Montafta, 
following  the  course  of  the  river,  and  descended  to  an 
elevation  of  5,000  feet  The  temperature  here  was  much 
higher,  due  to  the  descent,  and  registered  in  the  evening 
69 J Fahr.  The  hill-slopes  and  valleys  are  thickly  covered 
with  trees  of  comparatively  small  girth  and  height,  and  the 
existence  of  a few  cedars  marked  the  beginning  of  the 
region  where  these  flourish.  The  country  is  exceedingly 


Sandia,  Carabaya,  and  Lake  Titicaca  117 

broken  and  difficult  of  access  here,  and  the  rivers  are 
torrential  and  rapid.  The  geological  formation  is  a slate, 
heavily  charged  with  iron  pyrites,  and  containing  quartz 
veins,  gold-bearing. 

Returning  to  Aporoma  to  finish  my  study  of  the 
mines,  I was  confronted  with  a strike  of  the  Indians. 
The  cause  of  this  was  the  lack  of  provisions,  which  had 
given  out.  To  gain  a couple  of  days,  we  despatched  home 
those  among  them  who  were  not  absolutely  necessary, 
and  supplied  the  remainder  with  food  from  our  own 
slim  remaining  stores.  But  at  length  I had  to  give  the 
order  to  depart,  for  there  remained  nothing  but  rice  and 
tea ; and  on  this  we  were  obliged  to  subsist  for  five  days, 
under  forced  marches,  in  order  to  get  out  of  the  Montana 
and  return  to  Limbani. 

The  traveller  has  continually  to  observe  the  truth 
that  misfortunes  never  come  singly ; and  on  the  second 
day  one  of  the  Indian  bearers — the  Chuncho — disappeared, 
and  left  his  baggage  in  the  trail.  As  the  other  bearers 
were  already  over-loaded,  it  was  impossible  to  distribute 
his  bundle  among  them,  and,  ordering  a halt,  I was 
obliged  to  have  a selection  made  of  articles  which 
could  be  dispensed  with  most  easily.  I abandoned  my 
travelling-cot  and  various  articles  of  clothing,  and  my 
companion  some  of  his  instruments,  whilst  we  reduced 
the  number  of  our  cooking  utensils  to  the  lowest  possible 
limit.  The  Chuncho  we  never  saw  again,  and  the 
Indians  considered  that  he  had  gone  to  rejoin  his  tribe. 
As  a tribute  to  aboriginal  honesty,  I may  state  that  he 
took  nothing  away  but  his  own  things,  notwithstanding 
that  among  the  articles  he  carried  were  my  saddle-bags, 
containing  a sack  of  Peruvian  and  Bolivian  silver  dollars. 

At  the  end  of  the  third  day  our  meagre  rations  of  rice 
and  tea  were  concluded,  and  we  formed  camp  early,  with 
the  intention  of  making  a long  march  on  the  morrow  to 
the  town  of  Phara,  which  was  rather  nearer  than  Limbani. 
A rude  roof  of  branches  was  constructed,  but,  fortunately, 
the  rain  had  held  off  during  the  return  journey.  The 
sky  had  been  clear,  but  as  evening  fell  the  mists  arose 


118 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


and  formed  one  of  those  curious  and  weird  transforma- 
tion scenes  such  as  the  traveller  in  the  Andes  may 
witness.  Some  descriptions  of  these  I have  in  my  note- 
book, written  on  the  spot,  and  they  are  reproduced  in 
the  chapter  descriptive  of  the  Andes. 

We  duly  arrived  at  Phara,  and  breakfasted  at  the 
home  of  the  cura , and  in  return  for  his  hospitality  photo- 
graphed the  ancient  church  there.  Within  this  building 
is  an  enormous  altar  composed  of  mirrors  and  brass-work, 
which  latter  was  at  one  time  covered  with  gold  and 
silver.  The  point  of  interest  about  this  altar  was  that  it 
had  originally  belonged  to  the  church  at  Aporoma,  I 
was  informed,  which  had  stood  in  the  village  there — the 
vestiges  of  which,  as  1 have  described,  are  now  buried 
under  the  dense  vegetation — the  growth  of  generations. 
Gold  is  found  even  at  Phara.  The  cura,  during  our 
conversation  on  the  matter,  said  to  me : M Oh,  I have 
got  plenty  of  gold  in  my  garden ! M And,  taking  a 
porongo,  or  pan,  wc  went  outside,  where  from  among 
the  potatoes  an  Indian  servant  took  some  shovelfuls  of 
black  soil.  This  the  cura  skilfully  washed  out,  and  then 
handed  me  the  pan,  in  the  bottom  of  which  were  several 
flakes  of  alluvial  gold. 

At  Limbani  1 paid  off  the  Indians,  and,  having  with 
great  difficulty  secured  mules,  we  again  ascended  the 
steep  eastern  slope  of  the  Cordillera,  and  arrived  at 
Aricoma,  before  described.  The  Indians  gave  themselves 
over  to  a carousal  at  Limbani,  and  I may  here  again 
mention  the  evil  effects  which  arc  being  produced  in  the 
regions  of  the  Cordillera  by  the  abuse  of  alcohol  among 
the  indigenes.  I have  on  some  occasions  had  to  waste 
several  days  in  attempts  to  secure  beasts  and  a guide 
in  these  interior  towns ; but,  nevertheless,  have  met 
cavalcades  of  twenty  or  thirty  mules  or  horses  entering 
or  leaving  the  place,  and  loaded  with  — what? — square 
tins  of  alcohol ! This  terrible  stuff  is  alcohol  of  40  degrees, 
made  from  sugar-cane,  and  enormous  quantities  are  con- 
sumed by  the  Indians,  who  will  go  to  any  lengths  to 
obtain  it  At  times  it  is  impossible  to  purchase  a piece 


Sandia,  Carabaya,  and  Lake  Titicaca  119 

of  bread  in  the  native  shops,  or  anything  in  the  way  of 
provisions ; but,  nevertheless,  they  are  all  replete  with 
bottles  of  this  aguardiente , or  rum.  I have  seen  huts 
covered  with  the  sides  of  the  empty  tins,  and  in  one 
place  the  church  is  actually  roofed  with  these  tins!  It 
is  a lamentable  state  of  affairs,  and  must  lead  to  the 
diminution  of  the  working  population,  but  its  remedy 
seems  to  lie  only  in  the  hands  of  the  wealthy  sugar- 
growers,  who  make  the  rum,  and  who  are  sometimes  the 
legislators  of  the  country. 

The  lake  of  Aricoma  runs  north  and  south,  about 
2 leagues  in  length.  Its  depth  seems  to  be  very  consider- 
able, as  I have  observed  in  many  other  similar  lakes 
which  are  so  remarkable  a feature  of  the  Cordillera  of 
the  Andes  throughout  its  length.  The  existence  of  these 
numerous  bodies  of  water,  actually  astride  the  summit  of 
the  mountain  range,  is  a matter  which  arrests  the  attention 
of  the  engineer,  and  probably  some  day  they  will  form 
a valuable  source  of  hydraulic  power. 

Our  journey  was  slow,  for  my  companion  was  not  a 
good  horseman,  and  a heavy  snowstorm  overtook  us  upon 
the  edge  of  the  lake.  Night  was  approaching,  and  the 
group  of  Indian  huts  we  had  expected  to  reach  was  still 
many  miles  distant.  It  was  useless  to  proceed,  and  I 
called  a halt.  The  only  shelter  was  that  afforded  by  the 
remaining  walls  of  an  ancient  Inca  ruin,  and  I formed 
a sort  of  tent  by  securing  the  corners  of  the  sheets  of  my 
bedding  into  the  interstices  of  the  stone-work  with  stones 
rammed  in.  Under  this  we  arranged  our  couches,  and 
made  coffee  over  our  spirit-lamp,  afterwards  obtaining  a 
few  hours’  sleep,  whilst  the  snow  steadily  piled  up  on 
our  fragile  roof,  which,  later,  fell  down  upon  us ! Not- 
withstanding the  altitude — 15,000  feet  at  this  place — it 
was  not  very  cold,  the  thermometer  scarcely  going  down 
to  freezing  point,  which  was  fortunate. 

Instead  of  returning  over  my  original  route,  I had 
decided  to  extend  my  journey  to  include  others  of  the 
auriferous  regions  of  the  provinces  of  Sandia.  We,  there- 
fore, followed  a south-easterly  course  along  the  tableland 


120 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


which  forms  a plateau  below  the  snow-capped  peaks,  at 
an  altitude  more  or  less  equal  to  that  already  recorded, 
with  the  town  and  mines  of  Poto  at  our  objective  point. 

The  topographical  and  geological  formation  over  this 
distance  is  remarkable.  Our  way  lay  principally  along 
the  bank  of  the  Poto  river,  which  runs  through  extensive 
pampas  or  plateaux,  as  above  stated,  of  auriferous  glacial 
or  alluvial  drift.  In  many  places  the  Indians  work  on 
the  banks  of  the  streams  by  the  method  known  to  them 
as  acochar , which  consists  in  damming  the  water  up  in  a 
small  reservoir,  and  then  allowing  it  suddenly  to  flow 
out  and  impinge  against  a bank  or  area  of  auriferous 
material,  washing  it  down  into  a rude  stone-paved  sluice, 
where  the  gold  is  recovered.  These  auriferous  pampas 
and  banks,  which  cover  distances  of  many  leagues,  are 
probably  deposits  formed  by  glacial  action  upon  the 
gold-bearing  slates  and  quartz  of  which  the  Cordillera 
is  composed.  The  stones  and  material  are  not  water- 
worn,  as  in  alluvial  gravel  elsewhere,  but  are  angular, 
and  contained  in  an  ashen-hued  soil,  carrying  the  gold. 
The  pampas  are  strewn  with  boulders  of  white  quartz 
for  many  leagues,  which  catch  the  rays  of  the  sun.  The 
more  broken  portions  of  the  plateau  and  the  lateral  valleys 
are  covered  with  pasture,  and  hundreds  of  thousands  of 
head  of  sheep,  llamas,  and  alpacas  abound,  belonging  to 
the  Indians  of  the  region.  I encountered  large  herds  of 
vicufla,  and  quantities  of  geese,  ducks,  etc.,  upon  the 
numerous  small  lakes.  Some  of  these  plateaux  have 
probably  been  at  a former  epoch  lake  - bottoms ; and, 
indeed,  I passed  through  remarkable  formations,  consist- 
ing of  long  “shores”  of  conglomerate,  or  indurated  gravel, 
which  stood  up  in  vast  cliffs  underlaid  by  caves,  and 
which  latter  were  the  home  of  thousands  of  vizcachas , or 
native  squirrels. 

The  town  and  mines  of  Poto  are  at  an  altitude  above 
sea-level  of  nearly  16,000  feet.  Very  extensive  mining  has 
been  carried  out  here  by  the  Indians  before  and  during  the 
Spanish  regime,  by  the  method  previously  described  of 
acochar.  There  is,  at  present,  a modern  plant  working  by 


Sandia,  Carabaya,  and  Lake  Titicaca  121 

the  “ hydraulic  ” method  with  water  in  “ monitors  ” under 
pressure,  upon  an  enormous  moraine  of  gold  - bearing 
detritus.  The  huge  bank  descends  from  the  Cordillera 
of  Ananea,  above  the  line  of  perpetual  snow  a few  miles 
distant.  There  are  also  mines  at  Ananea,  more  than 
17,000  feet  elevation,  and  these  workings  are  certainly 
among  the  highest  on  the  globe.  During  my  stay  at 
Poto  (in  September)  the  thermometer  registered  generally 
104°  Fahr.  at  midday,  in  the  sun,  and  37°'4  Fahr.  in  the 
shade,  by  which  it  will  be  seen  how  considerable  is  the 
range  of  temperature  due  to  heat  of  the  sun  and  the 
rarefaction  of  the  air.  Nevertheless  the  cold  is  not 
excessively  intense  even  at  the  coldest  season,  although 
snow  and  rain-storms  are  frequent  and  severe.  Terrible 
thunderstorms  occur,  and  the  lightning  continually  strikes 
exposed  points.  I may  here  mention  that  the  presence  of 
electricity  in  the  atmosphere,  even  at  normal  times,  is  very 
noticeable.  The  boas,  made  of  vicuna  fur,  which  one 
wears  as  protection  against  the  wind,  and  one’s  clothing 
“ crackle  ” in  a remarkable  manner  when  the  least  friction  is 
applied.  The  same  effect  is  strongly  produced  in  comb- 
ing one’s  hair ; and  if  it  be  done  in  the  dark,  sparks  are 
observed  to  be  produced  by  the  friction  of  the  comb.  At 
Poto  a curious  scene  is  observed — the  half  of  a church 
tower  protruding  from  a stony  plain.  Seven  years  ago  a 
lake  or  reservoir  burst,  somewhat  higher  up  in  the  hills, 
and  brought  down  vast  masses  of  gravel  and  debris , which 
buried  the  village  entirely,  leaving  only  the  church  tower. 

Leaving  Poto,  I continued  my  journey  alone,  except 
for  my  Indian  guide,  still  in  a south-easterly  direction, 
with  the  intention  of  skirting  the  northern  end  of  Lake 
Titicaca,  and  arriving  at  the  station  of  Juliaca,  on  the 
southern  railway  of  Peru. 

The  country  was  entirely  covered  with  freshly-fallen 
snow.  The  temperature  was  like  that  of  the  breaking  up 
of  an  English  winter  and  the  coming  of  spring,  for  the  air 
was  soft  and  mild  in  the  early  morning.  Beautiful  white 
cumulous  cloud-masses  against  a glorious  blue  sky,  with  a 
bright  sun,  were  reflected  in  the  mirror-surfaces  of  the 


122  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

numerous  small  lakes  I passed.  Magnificent  water-fowl 
swam  upon  these  lakes,  and  I obtained  one  of  them  with 
a shot  from  my  long-barrelled  Colt’s  revolver — this  not  as 
a wanton  taking  of  life,  but  that  the  bird  would  supply  the 
scarcity  of  provisions  I knew  I should  encounter  on  the 
morrow. 

Bands  of  vicuna  stared  wonderingly  as  I passed,  and 
one  splendid  fellow — a sentinel  upon  a knoll — is  almost 
within  reach  of  the  revolver’s  range,  so  near  that  I am 

tempted  to  try  a shot.  But  1 might  have  saved  my 

cartridge,  for  he  and  his  ten  companions  are  away  like 
the  wind,  only  to  stop  and  utter  their  curious  and  plaintive, 
protesting  or  warning  cry  300  yards  away,  where  they 
stand  gracefully  and  gaze  at  me.  Both  the  vicuHa  and 

the  huanaco , or  guanaco,  are  found  at  these  elevations, 

the  latter  being  less  plentiful. 

Ever  these  glorious  white,  cloud-massed,  cumulus 
columns,  upward  flung  into  the  blue  empyrean ; ever 
these  silent  and  virgin  everlasting  peaks  of  eternal  snow, 
which  1 am  paralleling,  upon  the  Bolivian  border,  and 
whose  mysterious  cartons  and  violet  snow-cornices  blend 
from  time  to  time  with  the  fleecy  mist-matter  above 
them ; ever  this  unbroken  solitude,  and  the  feeling  of 
being  upon  the  top  of  matter ; and  ever  this  extensive 
silence,  undisturbed  save  by  the  cry  of  the  alcamarini 1 
or  the  vicurta.  Strange  and  beautiful  region,  working 
out  some  function  of  the  world’s  changes  in  the  plan  of 
Nature’s  endless  operations ! 

But  the  late  afternoon  advances,  and  a bitter  wind 
arises  from  the  snow -clad  Cordillera  and  changes  the 
aspect  of  all,  and  the  sun  has  long  since  set,  when,  cold, 
hungry,  and  weary,  I arrive  at  the  town  of  Cojata.  The 
industry  of  the  people  here  is  that  of  the  breeding  of 
alpacas  and  llamas,  and  the  buying  and  selling  of  wool. 
Gold  mining  is  also  carried  on,  and  a considerable  trade 
done  with  Bolivia  in  the  aguardiente , or  rum,  before  spoken 
of.  Cojata  is  very  near  the  frontier  line  of  that  country, 
which  there  consists  of  a small  stream  intersecting  the 

1 A white,  gull-like  bird. 


12M. 


A STREET  IN  AREQUIPA. 

(See  p.  97). 


Sandia,  Carabaya,  and  Lake  Titicaca  123 

pampa  (part  of  the  river  Suchis).  The  vast  glacial 
moraines  of  gold-bearing  detritus  are  a feature  of  the 
region,  as  are  also  the  pampas  of  similar  material ; and 
there  is  no  doubt  that  these  provinces  of  Sandia  and 
Carabaya  form  one  of  the  most  important  auriferous 
regions  in  the  world.  The  Bolivian  and  Peruvian  Indians 
here  speak  nothing  but  their  language  of  Aymara.  They 
— men  as  well  as  women — wear  their  hair  in  long  trensas , 
or  queues,  like  Chinamen  ; and  they  often  have  a distinc- 
tive dress  and  headgear  highly  ornate.  Their  principal 
diversion  appears  to  be  the  consumption  of  aguardiente , 
accompanied  or  followed  by  a jarania , or  fandango. 
Physically,  they  are  by  no  means  an  inferior  race ; and 
the  women  are  often  of  fair  height,  robust,  and  not  un- 
attractive in  appearance,  save  that  they  are  unwashed. 
The  altitude  of  Cojata  is  about  14,800  feet. 

Leaving  this  point,  the  trail  ascended  an  eminence, 
from  which  I got  a faint  and  momentary  view,  far  to 
the  south,  of  the  famous  peak  of  Sorata,  or  Llampo, 
(23,600  feet  altitude),  in  Bolivia.  Passing,  now,  down- 
wards, and  through  areas  of  a remarkable  rock-formation 
of  hard  white  sandstone,  lying  in  horizontal  strata,  the 
trail  descends  rapidly  towards  Lake  Titicaca ; and  at 
every  turn  of  the  road  I strained  my  eyes  in  search  of 
its  blue  surface — -my  first  approach  thereto.  At  length 
I beheld  it,  still  far  off,  and  between  the  barren  and 
rocky  hills  which  I had  to  pass  before  reaching  my 
halting-place  — the  town  of  Huancane.  The  first  view 
of  Titicaca  was  very  beautiful. 

From  Pluancane  to  Juliaca  is  a long  day’s  ride,  and, 
having  secured  a guide,  I left  before  sunrise.  The  road 
lay,  at  first,  through  the  lands  cultivated  by  the  Indians, 
between  Lakes  Arapa  and  Titicaca,  and  the  swamps 
and  marshes  bordering  thereon.  These  latter  places  are 
dangerous,  and  it  was  necessary  to  wade  through  a sheet 
of  water,  with  my  horse  submerged  to  the  saddle-bags. 
One  may,  also,  cross  by  means  of  the  curious  balsas , or 
rafts,  which  the  Indians  use  for  navigation,  and  which 
are  constructed  of  masses  of  woven  grass  or  rushes,  with 


124 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


sails  of  the  same  material.1  They  are  well  shown  in 
the  accompanying  view.  At  one  portion  of  the  route 
the  scenery  is  exceedingly  picturesque.  There  are  areas 
of  yellow  water  - weed,  from  which  numerous  scarlet- 
feathered  herons  arise  as  the  traveller  passes.  The  tips 
of  the  white  Cordillera  are  reflected  in  the  blue  surface 
of  the  lakes,  and  the  remarkable  conical-shaped  houses 
of  the  Indians  give  a character  to  the  scene  not  found 
elsewhere  in  Peru.  I examined  some  of  these  houses ; 
they  are  square  at  the  base,  built  in  regular  courses  of 
adobe  bricks.  Each  course  is  set  in  from  the  lower  one, 
and  thus  the  structure  becomes  a cone,  curved  in  profile, 
and  circular  on  plan  in  the  upper  portion.  How  did 
the  Indians  learn  to  build  these  curious  dwellings?  I 
have  spoken  elsewhere  of  these  houses. 

After  sundown  the  cold  became  intense,  due  to  the 
bitter  blast  which  swept  across  the  plateau  from  the  lake. 
The  altitude  of  Titicaca  is  12,570  feet  above  sea-level. 
My  guide  had  brought  me  by  a longer  route  than  was 
necessary,  and  it  was  not  until  9 P.M.  that  I drew  rein 
upon  my  wearied  horse  before  the  station  hotel  at  Juliaca, 
where  1 again  enjoyed  the  luxuries  of  a good  dinner 
and  comfortable  bed,  after  nearly  two  months’  journeying 
in  those  interesting  but  inhospitable  regions — inhospitable 
not  so  much  as  regards  man,  but  nature. 

As  will  have  been  seen,  some  of  the  portions  of  the 
country  I traversed  are  very  little  known,  and  upon 
the  verge  of  the  Mon  tafia,  uninhabited.  The  most 
easterly  point  at  which  I arrived,  near  the  junction 
of  the  streams  before  mentioned  with  the  Huari-huari, 
or  Inambari  river,  is  south-west  of  and  only  about 
25  or  30  miles  from  the  port  Markham,  on  the 
navigable  river  Tambopata,  a port  named  after  the 
late  President  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society, 
whose  work  and  interest  in  the  country  are  always 
gratefully  remembered  by  Peruvians.  I had  desired  to 
extend  my  journey  to  this  river,  but  the  circumstances 
already  described  rendered  it  impossible. 

* These  rafts  form  a link  with  an  assumed  Egyptian  origin. 


Sketched  on  the  spot  by  the  Author. 


Sandia,  Carabaya,  and  Lake  Titicaca  125 

The  region  is  one  of  vast  possibilities,  both  as  regards 
the  auriferous  plateaux  and  the  zone  of  the  Montafia, 
which  is  healthy,  and  capable  of  producing  crops  of 
any  kind  after  clearing  and  cultivation  shall  have  taken 
place.  Roads,  however,  or  branch  railways  must  be  built 
before  much  colonisation  can  be  brought  about,  and  some 
advance  is  already  being  made  in  this  respect.  When 
the  project  of  uniting  the  railway  system  of  the  Pacific 
with  the  navigable  head-waters  of  the  Amazonian  fluvial 
ways  is  carried  out,  a beginning  will  have  been  made 
in  the  opening  up  of  one  of  the  most  valuable  portions 
of  the  earth’s  surface.  I have  enlarged  upon  this  theme 
in  a subsequent  chapter. 


CHAPTER  XII 


HUANCAVELICA  AND  ADJOINING  DEPARTMENTS1 

To  reach  the  interior  of  Peru,  and  the  rich  mineral- 
bearing zone  upon  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Andes,  the 
traveller  must,  from  the  Pacific  littoral,  invariably  cross 
the  summit  of  the  Cordillera,  for  this  vast  natural  barrier 
parallels  the  coast,  and  leaves  no  pass,  speaking  generally, 
at  less  altitude  than  14,000  or  15,000  feet  above  sea-level. 

The  Department,  or  state  of  Huancavelica,  which  I 
visited  in  November,  1904,  is  one  of  the  richest  of  the 
mineral-bearing  regions  of  Peru  ; but  it  is  difficult  of  access, 
due  to  its  mountainous  nature  and  to  the  fact  that  no 
roads,  worthy  of  the  name,  have  yet  been  constructed 
to  give  outlet  to  its  products,  or  communication  with 
the  coast. 

My  way  lay  by  the  port  of  Pisco,  about  one  day’s 
steamer  journey  south  of  Callao,  and  past  the  town  of 
lea,  a few  miles  from  the  port,  and  connected  by  a railway 
thereto.  Ica  is  the  centre  of  a fruitful  agricultural  district, 
where  cotton,  sugar-cane,  wine,  brandy,  etc,  are  produced. 
The  crops  here,  like  all  those  of  the  agricultural  regions 
upon  the  coast  - zone,  are  grown  under  irrigation,  for, 
as  has  been  described,  the  whole  of  this  vast  stretch 
of  continent,  from  Ecuador  to  Chile,  is  a rainless  region. 
Vegetation  exists  by  virtue  of  the  streams  of  water 
descending  the  western  slope  of  the  Cordillera — streams 
which  have  their  origin  in  the  ceaseless  thawing  of  the 
ice-cap,  and  the  heavy  rains  of  that  lofty  region.  For 
the  Andes,  having  deprived  the  western  zone  of  its  rainfall 

1 From  the  Royal  Geographical  Journal. 

126 


Huancavelica  and  adjoining  Departments  127 

by  reason  of  the  climatic  conditions  brought  about  through 
its  agency,  has,  in  part,  remedied  the  defect  by  giving 
origin  to  these  torrential  streams. 

My  first  day’s  journey  lay  across  the  usual  sterile  desert 
zone  between  the  coast  and  the  foothills  of  the  Cordillera 

deserts  over  which  the  ennuied  horseman  toils  from 

sunrise  to  sunset.  There  is  a group  of  extensive  Inca 
ruins  upon  the  desert,  which  I examined  in  passing. 
The  principal  feature  is  a large  courtyard  some  hundreds 
of  feet  in  length  and  width,  with  a series  of  doorways 
opening  therefrom.  Between  these  doorways,  which  are 
symmetrically  spaced,  are  niches,  and  both  are  of  the 
tapering  form  so  often  seen  in  Incaican  architecture.  A 
portion  of  one  wall  is  shown  in  the  accompanying 
sketch ; the  walls  are  of  adobe  and  rough  pieces  of  stone, 
the  whole  being  rendered  to  a smooth  surface  with  plaster 
formed  of  mud  or  clay.  The  general  face  of  the  walls 
has  been  coloured  with  red  paints,  and  the  niches  with 
yellow  paint  or  pigment.  Parts  of  this  colouring  still 
remain,  notwithstanding  the  centuries  that  have  passed 
over  it.  The  pigment  may  have  been  formed  of  iron 
oxides,  or  possibly  vermilion  from  the  cinnabar  mines 
of  the  interior,  at  Huancavelica. 

Regarding  these  ruins  upon  the  coast-zone,  it  has  been 
a matter  for  observation  that  they  are  not  built  like  those 
of  the  interior — of  cut  stone — and  they  still  exist,  only 
by  reason  of  the  rainless  climate  and  the  climatic  con- 
ditions generally,  which  tend  towards  exceedingly  slow 
disintegration. 

Whilst  speaking  of  this  immediate  region,  I may 
mention  the  ruins  of  Incahuassi  (house  of  the  Inca), 
which  are  found  some  50  miles  to  the  north-west  of  this 
point,  near  the  coast  also.  They  are  chiefly  interesting 
as  showing  the  use  of  columns  in  Incaican  architecture, 
various  writers  upon  Peru  having  asserted  that  columns 
were  unknown  to  those  builders.  The  columns  are 
shown  in  the  accompanying  sketch;  they  are  65  to  85 
centimetres  in  diameter,  and  the  ruins  are  stated  by 
Senor  Larrabure  (an  archaeologist  and  late  minister  of 


128 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


foreign  affairs  in  Peru),  who  visited  them,  to  belong  to 
the  fifteenth  century. 

At  nightfall  I arrived  at  Humay,  a hacienda  upon  the 
Pisco  river,  and  whose  extensive  vineyards  are  irrigated 
therefrom.  This  place,  although  peaceful  and  picturesque, 
has  not  left  a pleasant  impression  upon  me,  for  during 
the  night  my  room  was  invaded  by  swarms  of  mos- 
quitoes, whose  stinging  was  the  cause,  undoubtedly,  of  the 
tercianas , or  intermittent  fever,  from  which  I suffered 
afterwards. 

Upon  leaving  this  point  I knew  little  of  the  hard- 
ships I should  be  obliged  to  endure  for  the  remaining 
four  days  of  my  journey  to  my  destination.  The  road 
by  which  I had  been  directed  passed  through  a portion 
of  the  country,  void  of  towns  or  villages,  and,  conse- 
quently, of  food  of  any  nature,  notwithstanding  that  I 
had  been  informed  that  such  was  available.  The  arriero 
who  conducted  my  pack-mule  and  served  as  guide  was 
almost  constantly  drunk  with  aguardiente , and,  as  far 
as  I could  observe,  took  no  other  nourishment  (!)  during 
the  last  three  days’  travels.  On  two  occasions  I searched 
his  saddle-bags  and  confiscated  and  destroyed  the  bottle 
of  alcohol  he  carried,  but  he  again  obtained  supplies  of 
this  from  acquaintances  among  the  Indian  shepherds  en 
route.  These  people  were  also  drunk,  even  early  in  the 
morning ; and  there  is  no  doubt  that  the  effects  of  alcohol 
is  beginning  to  ruin  the  inhabitants  of  these  regions,  as 
I have  elsewhere  observed.  Due  to  the  effects  of  the 
fever,  I could  not  touch  the  coarse  and  scanty  food  of 
these  shepherds’  huts.  At  night  the  cold  was  intense, 
for  we  were  now  at  a considerable  altitude,  and  I had 
foolishly  neglected  to  bring  my  cot  or  a mattress, 
desiring  to  travel  rapidly  without  impedimenta. 

There  was  nothing  for  it  but  to  get  out  of  the  situa- 
tion, and  although  I could  scarcely  mount  my  mule  I 
was  obliged  to  keep  on,  driving  in  front  of  me  the 
drunken  arriero  and  the  pack-mule.  Towards  the  close 
of  the  day  a violent  attack  of  vomiting  came  on,  and  I 
fell  rather  than  got  down  from  the  saddle,  and  lay  upon 


J 


Ruins  of  Incahuasi:  Interior  Columns. 
Sketched  from  a Photo. 


Huancavelica  and  adjoining  Departments  129 

the  plain  utterly  exhausted.  The  altitude  was  16,000  feet 
above  sea-level,  the  air  exceedingly  rarefied,  and  a bitter 
blast  swept  across  the  plateau.  I thought  for  some  time 
that  I should  never  rise  again  from  the  spot,  and  it  was 
only  by  an  effort  of  will  that  I did  so.  But  I managed 
to  swallow  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  condensed  milk, 
and,  mounting  with  the  aid  of  the  arriero , who  was  now 
sober  and  penitent,  I continued  onward,  and  near  mid- 
night arrived  at  my  objective  point — Santa  Inez. 

Situated  here  are  the  silver  mines  of  Quespisisa,  which 
have  produced  great  quantities  of  that  metal  in  the  past, 
and  which  still  contain  extensive  ore  - bodies.  Hydro- 
graphically,  the  region  is  interesting  also,  for  there  are 
two  large  lakes  of  true  Andean  character  here.  The 
higher,  known  as  Lake  Orcococha,  is  16,000  feet,  and 
the  lower,  Lake  Choclococha,  15,000  feet  above  sea-level. 
They  are  separated  only  by  a distance  of  a few  thousand 
yards,  the  upper  being  dammed  up  with  a natural  dam, 
formed  by  a moraine  of  soil  and  gravel.  A noteworthy 
feature  of  this  lake-basin  is  that,  although  it  is  upon  the 
western  or  Pacific  side  of  the  summits  of  the  Andes,  it 
nevertheless  is  drained  into  the  eastern  or  Amazonian 
watershed,  by  means  of  the  river  Pampas,  which  breaks 
through  the  Cordillera,  and  so  into  the  Apurimac  river 
and  head-waters  of  the  Ucayali  and  Amazon.  Close  at 
hand  to  the  west,  and  at  slight  difference  of  elevation, 
are  other  smaller  lakes,  which  give  rise  to  the  Pisco  river 
flowing  to  the  Pacific.  Here,  then,  is  another  of  those 
numerous  instances  which  are  met  with  in  the  Andes, 
where  the  water-parting  of  the  continent  is  defined  by 
a lake,  a part  of  whose  waters,  in  times  of  abnormal 
flow,  may  positively  belong  to  the  one,  or  to  the  other, 
of  its  adjoining  watersheds.  There  is  no  fish  life  within 
their  waters  — a common  characteristic  in  the  lakes  in 
these  high  regions.  Each  is  5 or  6 miles  in  length,  and 
about  ij  in  breadth;  whilst  at  a depth  of  250  feet,  I 
was  informed,  the  bottom  was  not  reached  in  the  middle. 
Their  blue  surfaces  reflect  the  snow-capped  range  to  the 

I 


130 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


east,  but  in  the  rainy  season  are  lashed  into  fury  by  the 
terrific  thunderstorms  of  this  altitude. 

The  general  rock-formation  is  a trap,  whose  terraced 
lines  are  seen  far  off  upon  the  peaks,  as  they  emerge 
from  beneath  the  ice-cap.  A remarkable  peak  of  diorite 
stands  solitary,  not  far  from  the  lake-shore,  and  is  known 
among  the  Indians  by  the  name  of  Quispijahua,  which 
means  “the  flower  of  glass.”  This  name  is  due  to  its 
form,  for  at  the  summit  it  spreads  out  into  almost  a 
petal-like  shape,  a result  partly  of  geological  formation, 
and  partly  to  its  having  been  continually  riven  and  split 
by  lightning  strokes.  It  is  reverenced  by  the  Indians, 
and  legends  have  been  woven  around  it. 

The  whole  of  this  region,  from  Castrovirreyna  on  the 
west  to  Ayacucho  on  the  east,  is  exceedingly  rich  in 
minerals,  including  silver,  copper,  gold,  as  well  as  salt, 
and  in  places  coal  — all  of  which,  when  the  country 
becomes  more  known  and  opened  up,  will  be  valuable 
elements  on  industry.  The  highest  elevation  at  which 
I arrived  was  17,500  feet,  just  below  the  ice-cap. 

After  a sojourn  of  about  two  weeks  in  the  neighbour- 
hood, I continued  my  journey  in  a north-westerly  direc- 
tion. But  my  troubles  were  not  yet  over,  for  I was 
again  attacked  by  the  tercianas , and  rendered  unable  to 
go  on.  These  intermittent  fevers  have  the  characteristic 
of  quite  suddenly  depriving  one  of  one’s  strength,  and 
there  was  nothing  for  it  but  to  give  up  the  idea  of 
reaching  the  next  village,  and  to  sleep  out  upon  the 
puna , or  plateau.  Fortunately,  the  temperature  fell  but 
little  below  freezing-point.  During  the  night  the  arriero 
— not  the  former  one — let  the  mules  escape,  and  was 
obliged  to  follow  them,  leaving  me  alone  and  unable 
to  get  up  for  the  whole  of  the  following  day.  The  sun 
blazed  down,  and  I was  consumed  with  thirst,  and  never- 
theless unable  to  reach  the  shimmering  blue  lake  which 
lay  within  100  yards  of  me.  At  length  I beheld,  afar 
off,  an  Indian  approaching  with  some  llamas,  and  I 
hailed  him.  But,  after  the  manner  of  his  kind,  he  was 
afraid  ; and,  instead  of  coming  towards  me,  he  quickened 


Huancavelica  and  adjoining  Departments  131 

his  pace,  and  soon  disappeared.  I suffered  greatly  from 
thirst,  and  with  the  sun  and  the  fever  was  almost  delirious  ; 
and  still  no  sign  of  the  arriero.  I managed  to  reach  my 
saddle-bags  and  took  a mouthful  of  extract  of  coffee,  which 
revived  me  a little ; but  what  I wanted  was  water.  Again 
I saw  another  Indian,  towards  the  close  of  day,  and  as 
he  came  within  hearing,  I called  him  ; not  this  time,  how- 
ever, in  Spanish,  which  might  have  had  the  same  effect  as 
before,  but  in  the  few  words  of  Ouechua  which  I was  able 
to  employ.  “ Shami,  yacu-t-apami  ! ” (“  Come  here  ! Bring 
some  water ! ”)  I shouted  ; and  the  poor  Indian,  gathering, 
probably,  some  confidence  from  being  addressed  in  his 
own  tongue,  came  up  to  me,  and,  following  my  directions, 
brought  me  water  from  the  lake.  I rewarded  him  with 
a silver  dollar,  and  he  stayed  by  me  until  nightfall,  when 
the  arriero  returned  with  other  animals  from  the  hacienda. 

After  a loss  of  various  days,  due  to  this  fever  and  its 
results,  I arrived  at  the  city  of  Huancavelica,  14  leagues 
from  Santa  Inez,  and  which  can  be  accomplished  in  one 
long  day’s  hard  riding.  The  country  passed  over  was 
the  usual  treeless  puna , alternating  with  lakes,  swamps, 
rocks,  and  streams,  and  generally  covered  with  grass, 
which  gives  pasturage  for  herds  of  cattle  and  sheep. 
The  climate  is  exhilarating,  and  the  views  magnificent, 
and  in  the  intervals  when  the  fever  did  not  trouble  me, 
I enjoyed  the  ride  and  the  unfolding  landscape. 

At  Huancavelica  are  the  famous  quicksilver  mines, 
which  are  generally  mentioned  in  all  geological  treatises. 
The  history  of  the  mines  would  fill  a bulky  volume. 
They  were  discovered  in  1566,  and  were  administered 
under  a Spanish  viceroy,  and  since  that  period  have 
produced  approximately  60,000  tons  of  mercury  from 
the  cinnabar  ores,  which  exist  in  an  enormous  lode  or 
farallon , to  use  the  Spanish  term.  In  1786  bad  work 
caused  the  mine  to  collapse,  and  it  is  stated  that  500 
Indian  miners  remained  entombed  therein.  Huancavelica 
was  visited  and  described  both  by  Bufon  and  Humboldt, 
as  also  Raimondi.  I penetrated  into  some  of  the  vast 
subterranean  caverns,  which  have  been  excavated  to 


132 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


extract  the  ore,  and  made  an  examination  of  the  general 
conditions  of  the  region,  in  order  to  draw  up  a report 
thereon.  The  workings  are  about  2,400  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  cathedral  and  city  of  Huancavelica,  which 
latter  is  at  an  elevation  of  12,300  feet  above  sea-level. 
The  Huancavelica  river  flows  through  the  city,  emptying 
lower  down  into  the  Mantaro,  which  in  turn  falls  into 
the  Apurimac,  before  mentioned,  and  so  into  the  fluvial 
system  of  the  Ucayali  and  Amazon.  The  Mantaro 
river,  almost  alone  of  Peruvian  rivers,  runs  in  this  part 
of  its  course  to  the  south-east,  or  directly  opposite  to 
their  general  north  - west  direction,  over  nearly  30  of 
latitude,  to  where  its  course  abruptly  changes  near 
Huanta.  The  climate  of  Huancavelica  is  cold,  but 
temperate.  Alfalfa  and  cereals  are  not  produced,  owing 
to  the  altitude ; and  the  principal  industry  is  that  of 
cattle,  and  was  formerly,  and  some  day  must  again 
become,  mining.  The  general  geological  formation  is 
limestone  and  sandstone,  and  hot  springs  occur,  and  are 
used  as  baths.  I have  spoken  of  these  quicksilver  mines 
again,  elsewhere. 

Leaving  this  remarkable  place,  my  way  lay  across  a 
lofty  puna , some  thousands  of  feet  above  the  town;  for, 
notwithstanding  the  marvellous  wealth  in  minerals  that 
the  region  has  produced,  no  road  had  been  made,  beyond 
the  primitive  mule-trail,  to  the  outside  world.  Such  was 
the  Spanish  method  of  mining,  from  which  no  benefit 
accrued  to  the  community,  who  toiled  and  died  to  enrich 
an  arbitrary  and  distant  monarch.  The  arms  of  Spain 
carved  on  the  stone  at  the  portals  of  the  mine,  with 
figures  of  saints,  and  ruined  churches,  are  the  principal 
remaining  vestiges  of  this  regime  — unless,  indeed,  the 
defects  inherited  by  the  present  inhabitants,  of  lack  of 
enterprise  and  the  love  of  officialdom,  be  counted  as  such. 

Descending  rapidly  from  this  plateau,  the  track  passed 
into  the  valley  below.  The  change  from  these  dreary  and 
inclement  altitudes  to  the  warmer  climate  of  this  valley 
was  very  agreeable,  especially  in  my  still  weak  state.  The 
piercing  wind  gives  place  to  a balmy  breeze,  and  the  dry 


Huancavelica  and  adjoining  Departments  183 

grass  of  the  puna  changes  to  other  vegetation.  I pass  a 
tree,  and  recollect  Thalaba  and  the  Sledge— 

“ Behold  ! the  signs  of  life  appear, 

The  first  and  single  fir  ! ” 

It  is  not  a fir ; there  are  no  firs  on  the  Andes ; but  it  is 
a real  tree,  although  a wind-beaten  specimen,  drawing  its 
scanty  nourishment  from  the  rocky  soil,  and  stretching  its 
attenuated  boughs  athwart  the  path.  A tree ! the  first  I 
have  seen  for  weeks.  It  has  green  leaves;  and,  moreover, 
a bird  carols  in  its  branches.  A little  lower  down  a patch 
of  celandines  and  dandelions  bring  to  my  senses  a waft  as 
from  England’s  lanes.  Here>  also,  are  glorious  masses 
of  yellow  acacia,  and  other  flowers  and  shrubs  on  either 
hand,  through  which  my  mule  brushes  as  we  descend. 
But  what  is  this  — this  sweet,  familiar  perfume  which 
suddenly  greets  me  ? Familiar,  although  for  the  moment 
I cannot  recognise  it.  I look  about,  and,  behold  ! there  it 
is — a low  hawthorn  bush  in  flower.  Its  leaves  are  some- 
what different  in  form  to  those  of  English  hawthorns,  but 
there  is  no  mistaking  the  well-known  dark  green  hue  and 
glossy  sheen  of  the  leaves,  nor  the  little  white  flowers 
and  the  sweet,  subtle  perfume  which  carries  the  mind 
momentarily  to  another  land.  It  is  “may”! 

I pass  through  the  villages  of  Acobambilla  and 
Huando,  ascend  and  pass  a high  ridge,  and  again 
descend  by  steep  and  rapid  zigzags  down  the  sides  of 
its  canon  to  the  river  Mantaro,  or  Jauja,  before  mentioned, 
and  sleep  at  the  town  of  Izcuchaca,  io  leagues  of  a broken, 
steep,  and  tortuous  road  from  Huancavelica. 

Izcuchaca  is  somewhat  of  a strategic  point.  A stone 
bridge  crosses  the  river,  and  the  place  was  generally  early 
taken  and  held  by  various  revolutionary  forces  in  times 
past,  as  it  commands  the  road  to  the  interior  of  a large 
and  important  part  of  the  country.  I found  the  greatest 
difficulty  in  obtaining  anything  to  eat  along  the  whole 
of  this  route.  The  Indians  are  of  a surly  and  suspicious 
character,  and  will  sell  absolutely  nothing  to  the  traveller. 
In  Izcuchaca  I had  expected  to  find  an  inn  and  some 


134 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


comforts,  but  the  place  was  dominated  by  a Chinaman, 
who  was  the  gobernador,  as  well  as  the  owner  of  the  inn. 
This  individual,  due  to  some  caprice  which  I was  unable  to 
explain,  absolutely  denied  me  food  and  shelter  ; and  even 
several  Peruvians  of  respectable  appearance  who  were 
standing  by  failed  to  offer  such,  or  indicate  where  it  could 
be  secured,  notwithstanding  that  they  knew  I was  a 
stranger,  a traveller,  and  that  night  had  fallen  and  a heavy 
rain  set  in.  This  is  the  only  place  in  Peru  where  I have 
experienced  such  a lack  of  hospitality,  and  I retain  an 
unpleasant  impression  of  the  place.  But  I found  shelter 
at  length  in  the  hut  of  a humble  but  honest  individual, 
who,  moreover,  obtained  alfalfa  for  my  animals,  which 
was  the  most  important,  for  they  had  eaten  but  little  for 
several  days.  There  was  no  food  in  the  house,  and  it 
was  too  late  to  purchase  anything  in  the  place ; and  all 
that  I and  my  arricro  could  obtain  was  a cup  of  weak 
tea  and  a piece  of  dry  bread  from  my  saddle-bags,  the 
only  food  of  which  we  partook  until  the  following  night 
upon  arriving  in  Huancayo. 

On  the  next  morning,  at  daybreak,  I shook  the  dust 
off  my  feet  of  Izcuchaca,  having  first  rewarded  the  wife  of 
the  humble  but  honest  individual  with  three  silver  dollars 
— perhaps  more  money  than  the  family  had  long  since 
possessed.  Also,  I did  not  fail  to  visit  the  Chinaman 
gobernador  in  order  to  give  him  my  opinion  of  his 
methods,  and  which  I came  near  to  emphasising  in 
other  than  verbal  ways. 

My  way  now  lay  along  the  bank  of  the  rapid  river  for 
some  distance,  and  leaving  that  I crossed  another  high 
ridge  and  plateau,  and  at  length  descended  into  the  large 
and  fertile  plains  of  Jauja,  and  slept  in  a fairly  comfortable 
inn  within  the  important  city  of  Huancayo,  13  leagues 
from  my  last  stopping-place.  This  plain,  through  which 
runs  the  river  Mantaro,  or  Jauja,  which  I had  been  more 
or  less  following,  is  one  of  the  finest  agricultural  regions  in 
Peru,  and  crops  of  every  description  are  produced.  Not 
far  away  are  extensive  and  valuable  mines  of  good  coal, 
as  well  as  of  copper  and  silver. 


Photo ] View  on  the  Oroya  Railway.  [At  P.  Edwards 


Huancavelica  and  adjoining  Departments  135 

From  Huancayo  to  Jauja,  my  next  day’s  journey, 
the  road  is  flat,  and  passes  through  numerous  towns 
and  villages : which,  with  their  cathedrals,  squares,  and 
trees,  present  a restful  and  old-world  appearance.  The 
altitude  of  Huancayo  is  10,680  feet,  and  that  of  Jauja 
11,870  feet,  the  distance  between  the  two  cities  being 
10  leagues.  The  small  Indian  shops  all  along  this  route 
seem  to  contain  little  but  bottles  of  aguardiente , or  rum  ; 
and  a great  deal  of  drunkenness  is  encountered  among 
the  Indian  labourers. 

On  the  morrow  I began  my  last  day’s  journey  in  the 
saddle.  The  road  left  the  pleasant  valley  and  wound  up 
on  to  a high,  cold  plateau.  Fourteen  leagues  lay  between 
Jauja  and  my  objective  point,  Oroya,  the  terminus  of 
the  famous  Oroya  railway,  where  I should  take  the  train 
for  Lima.  It  is  a remarkable  thing  that  the  inhabi- 
tants of  Jauja  and  of  the  numerous  towns  of  the  valley 
have  been  content  to  live  through  the  many  years 
since  that  railway  was  constructed  without  making  any 
attempt  at  a road  for  vehicles  which  would  give  them 
cheap  and  comfortable  communications  thereto.  The 
existing  trail  is  simply  a track,  innocent  of  improvement, 
over  the  limestone  strata,  where  the  wearied  pack-trains 
stumble  ceaselessly,  in  the  same  condition  almost  as 
when  the  Andes  were  upraised  from  chaos.  Howeven 
this  is  now  being  remedied,  in  the  construction  of  a 
branch  railway  from  Oroya. 

The  altitude  of  the  latter  place,  where  I arrived  in 
the  late  afternoon,  is  12,178  feet  above  sea-level,  and 
the  railway  thence  rises  at  the  summit  of  the  Andes 
to  the  west,  to  15,642  feet,  the  highest  in  the  world, 
and  doubtless  the  only  existing  instance  where  the 
traveller  is  carried  from  the  limit  of  the  perpetual  snow- 
cap  to  sea-level  in  a few  hours.  North  of  Oroya  great 
activity  is  being  displayed  upon  the  famous  Cerro  de 
Pasco  mines,  which  are  pronounced  to  be  the  largest 
copper  deposits  in  the  world. 

The  region  which  I traversed  is  but  little  known 
outside  the  country.  It  is  embraced  between  the  parallels 


136 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


of  iT  and  140  S.  lat.,  and  770  io'  to  74°  45'  meridians 
west  of  Greenwich.  It  is  a region  of  great  resource,  and 
will  undoubtedly  be  the  scene  of  an  early  development, 
for  the  dawn  of  an  era  of  progress  is  upon  the  old  empire 
of  the  Incas,  awakening  it  from  years  of  stagnation,  and 
giving  it  place  among  the  progressive  nations  of  its 
hemisphere. 

On  the  morrow  I took  the  train  for  Lima.  I had 
purposely  hurried  upon  my  journey,  bent  upon  arriving 
in  the  Capital  on  Christmas  Day,  for — good  reader,  smile 
not ! — the  thoughts  of  Christmas  cheer,  and  the  society  of 
my  countrymen,  had  assailed  me  on  those  inhospitable 
steppes.  Roast  beef  and  plum-pudding ! Are  they  not 
satisfactory  matters  for  contemplation  for  the  weary  and 
hungry  traveller? 


CHAPTER  XIII 


THE  PERUVIAN  INDIANS  OF  THE  ANDES 

At  the  beginning  of  this  chapter  is  the  picture  of  a 
Peruvian  Chola  girl.  It  is  taken  from  the  cover  of  a 
small  book  on  the  country  published  in  Spanish,  long 
ago,  and  the  artist,  whoever  he  may  have  been,  has 
certainly  drawn  a most  typical  portrait,  and  I have 
reproduced  it  for  that  reason. 

The  Chola  Indian  girl  is  far  more  typical  of  the 
country — as,  indeed,  are  the  Cholo  and  Ouechua  Indians 
generally  — than  the  cultivated  race  and  people  of  the 
cities.  I am  speaking  now  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  high- 
lands and  the  Cordillera ; and  in  the  face  of  this  girl  is 
reflected  the  melancholy  — the  unwitting  melancholy,  of 
these  vast,  solitary,  and  stupendous  regions.  Her  simple 
dress,  bare  and  brown  legs  and  arms,  and  wealth  of  hatless 
hair  ; her  semi-barbarous  face,  yet  with  much  of  sweetness 
in  her  glance,  and  her  stalwart  frame  form  a type  more 
American  — in  a sense  — than  the  pale,  lovely  damsels, 
brave  in  Parisian  attire,  of  the  Capital.  In  her  eyes  is 
the  melancholy  of  ages,  yet  there  is  a certain  coquettish 
disposition  of  her  simple  dress.  She  is  seated  upon  a 
block  of  granite — the  only  chair  she  knows — and  behind 
her  are  the  everlasting  hills,  the  virgin  snow  - cap,  the 
perpetual  white  clothing  of  Andean  summits.  No  truer 
child  of  Nature  could  be  found. 

I have  continually  seen  splendid  types  of  barbarous 
womanhood  among  these  Cholo  Indians  of  the  Cordillera. 
The  women  of  this  race  are  exceedingly  hardy,  and  very 
prolific.  It  is  commonly  related  of  her  that  at  child-birth, 
she — alone,  perhaps,  in  her  solitary  hut  at  the  moment— 

137 


138 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


herself,  gets  up,  goes  out  and  collects  firewood  and  heats 
water,  wherewith  to  wash  the  new-born  babe ! 

The  population  of  the  Peruvian  uplands  ought  really 
to  increase  instead  of  remaining  almost  stationary,  as  it 
appears  to  do,  were  it  not  that  the  mortality  is  so  great 
among  infants.  I have  been  informed  by  Peruvian 
medical  men  who  have  studied  the  subject,  that  the 
loss  is  40  per  cent,  of  births.  % This  is  due  to  the  hard 
conditions  of  life  in  the  mountains,  and  the  rigorous 
climate,  which,  however,  would  be  healthful  were  better 
food,  shelter,  and  clothing  obtainable,  and  hygienic 
methods  inculcated  among  the  inhabitants  of  those 
regions. 

The  Cholos,  it  must  be  here  explained,  are  not  a 
barbarous  Indian  race.  They  are  the  original  Quechua 
Indians  of  the  uplands,  which  are  quite  distinct  from 
those  of  the  tropical  river  and  forest  regions,  and  some- 
times they  have  an  admixture  of  Spanish  blood.  They 
are  those  who  formed  the  great  population  under  the 
Inca  regime , and  who  had  developed  a certain  civilisa- 
tion. They  are  often  of  refined  features,  and  light- 
coloured  skin;  whilst  others  are  dark,  copper  - coloured, 
with  heavier  features.  Nevertheless,  they  curiously  regard 
the  Spanish-speaking  people — the  dominating  race — ever 
as  interlopers  and  a people  apart,  and  although  they 
understand  Spanish,  they  often  prefer  to  reply  in  their 
own  dialects  of  Quechua  and  Aymara.  The  Cholos, 
therefore,  are  not  true  Indians.  The  true  Indians  in- 
habit the  warm  tropical  regions  east  of  the  Andes,  and 
came  neither  under  the  dominion  of  the  Incas  nor  the 
Spaniards,  nor  ever  received  the  influence  of  the  Roman 
Catholic  religion.  They  are  known  as  the  Barbaros, 
or  Salvages ; whilst  the  Cholos  are  the  most  ardent 
supporters  of  the  regime  of  the  priests.  The  forest 
Indians  are  described  in  a subsequent  chapter. 

The  Cholos  are  a docile  and  peaceful  race.  They  work 
when  they  will,  and  rest  or  idle  when  the  necessity  for 
work  does  not  press.  Their  wants  are  few.  Most  of 
the  Cholos*  clothing,  and  that  of  his  woman,  is  made 


The  Peruvian  Indians  of  the  Andes  139 


by  himself  from  the  wool  of  his  own  sheep  or  alpaca. 
Even  his  white  wool  or  felt  hat,  and  his  sandals,  are 
his  own  product.  He  cultivates  his  small  chacara , or 
farm,  and  grows  sufficient  maize,  potatoes,  and  alfalfa 
for  his  own  consumption,  and  is  almost  independent  of 
current  coin — save,  alas ! for  alcohol. 

It  is  a remarkable  feature  of  the  Peruvian  Cholo  that 
he  has  always  been  a small  landed  proprietor.  It  will 
be  recollected  that  under  the  Inca  regime  every  inhabitant 
had  a certain  area  of  land  apportioned  to  him,  and  was 
obliged  to  work  it,  receiving  one-third  of  its  products. 
Now  there  is  no  restriction  imposed  upon  him  except 
some  small  tax,  and  he  cultivates  little  more  than  suffi- 
cient for  his  requirements.  This  state  of  independence 
has  both  its  good  and  its  bad  sides.  It  is  undeniable 
that  the  citizens  of  a country  have  a right  to  possess  or 
enjoy  a portion  of  the  area  of  its  soil  (notwithstanding 
the  fact  that  the  most  civilised  nations  of  the  world  have 
allowed  this  condition  of  primitive  justice  to  be  usurped 
among  them).  The  Cholo  supports  himself  and  his 
family ; in  poverty  sometimes,  in  comfort  according  to 
his  standards,  generally,  and  what  more  does  he  require, 
he  might  ask,  did  a contrary  set  of  conditions  ever  occur 
to  him.  On  the  other  hand,  this  independence  leads  to 
stagnation.  When  the  Indian  has  no  wants,  or  no 
necessity  to  work,  there  is  no  stimulus  to  advancement, 
no  ambition,  and  therefore  no  progress  either  of  the 
individual,  the  family,  or  the  race. 

It  can  hardly  be  said,  however,  that  his  holding  does 
not  cost  him  some  work  to  secure  and  maintain.  The 
little  chacaras  are  built  in  the  most  difficult  places  often  ; 
terraced  on  steep  hillsides,  banked  up  between  crags  and 
rock  outcroppings,  and  literally  wrested  from  Nature’s 
topographical  chaos  upon  the  Andean  valley  slopes.  I 
have  observed  how  the  smallest  possible  places  have 
been  made  use  of  by  banking  up  on  the  lower  side  and 
digging  out  on  the  upper : a series  of  terraces  which 
extend  up  the  precipitous  flanks  of  hills,  from  the  valley 
floor,  in  a most  remarkable  way,  only  ending  where  the 


140 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


ground  became  absolutely  sterile  by  reason  of  the  rock 
cropping,  or  nearly  vertical  from  its  precipitous  gradient. 
Indeed,  it  is  highly  probable  that  its  inaccessibility  is 
partly  the  cause  of  his  possessing  it.  Had  it  existed  in 
places  of  easier  access,  probably  it  would  have  been  con- 
fiscated by  some  more  powerful  neighbour,  as  in  earlier 
days  in  Europe.  Peru,  at  any  rate,  is  saved  from  the 
reproach  of  its  territory  all  being  held  by  a handful 
of  landlords,  as  in  Great  Britain ! 

Generally,  an  irrigation  ditch  marks  the  upper  limit 
of  these  lands,  keeping  all  green  below  it,  in  sharp 
contrast  to  the  line  of  sterility  above.  I have  often 
examined  these  native  works  of  engineering,  and  it  is 
remarkable  how  the  frail  open  conduit  is  carried  around 
rocks,  built  up  with  rubble  walls,  and  patched  with  adobe 
clay  at  weak  spots. 

But  it  is  less  the  modern  than  the  old  works  of 
this  description  which  attract  the  traveller's  attention.  I 
have  elsewhere  spoken  of  the  irrigation  canals  of  the 
Inca  period  ; the  chacaras  and  andenes , the  old  terraced 
fields  of  that  time,  cover  most  of  the  Andean  slopes  ; 
the  cultivable  lateral  and  longitudinal  valleys.  Standing 
sometimes  on  the  summits  of  the  hills,  the  observer,  as 
far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  beholds  these  once-cultivated 
terraces.  In  places  they  have  been  almost  carried  away 
by  the  slow  action  of  the  elements,  but  the  practised  eye 
does  not  fail  to  see  their  position,  especially  when  the 
sun  is  low  and  long  shadows  fall  upon  the  hill-slopes, 
bringing  the  ruined  terraces  into  relief — a “ rippled  ” or 
chequered  appearance  of  much  beauty  and  singularity. 

The  existence  of  these  numerous  works  has  partly 
given  rise  to  the  supposition  that  a much  vaster  popula- 
tion inhabited  Peru  in  centuries  past  — 90,000,000  of 
people  have  been  spoken  of ; and  whilst  undoubtedly 
the  number  of  inhabitants  was  much  greater  than  the 
3,000,000  of  the  present  census,  still,  it  is  doubtful  if  it 
could  have  reached  the  larger  figure.  Also,  it  is  to  be 
remembered  that  there  was  not  necessarily  only  one 
chacara  to  each  inhabitant,  but  various.  These  terraced 


Andean  Valley,  shewing  “Andenes.” 


The  Peruvian  Indians  of  the  Andes  141 


places,  as  I have  stated  elsewhere,  were  termed  in  Spanish 
andenes , or  platforms,  and  it  is  said  that  the  name  of 
the  Andes  is  derived  therefrom. 

The  Cholos  lived,  as  stated,  in  the  most  remote  and 
solitary  places.  The  greater  part  of  these  uplands  or 
punas  are  from  12,000  to  14,000  feet  above  sea-level.  I 
have,  on  my  journeys  in  these  regions,  often  heard  the 
far-off,  melancholy  notes  of  the  flute  or  pan-pipes,  and 
have  discerned  a solitary  Cholo  sitting  on  an  almost 
inaccessible  point  of  rock  somewhere,  with  his  herd  of 
goats  nibbling  the  scanty  herbage  on  the  bare  hillside. 
Or,  I see  a Chola  maid  sitting  upon  an  eminence  near 
the  road.  She  is  spinning  — she  is  always  spinning, 
except  when  she  is  asleep  — making  yarn  in  her  deft 
and  primitive  way,  simply  with  a ball  of  crude  wool  and 
a little  spindle  a few  inches  long,  which  she  incessantly 
twirls.  Perhaps  she  is  minding  her  llamas  or  sheep  the 
while  she  spins ; and  her  chacara , although  you  cannot 
see  it,  is  among  the  rocks  near  at  hand.  Probably  she 
has  a child  slung  at  her  back  ; one  at  her  bosom,  or 
perhaps  another  in  visible  anticipation ! For  she  mates 
early  and  is  prolific.  Perhaps  she  is  unattached,  a maiden 
still ; and,  if  so — behold ! there  she  was  a moment  ago 
spinning,  spinning,  and  overlooking  the  road  and  the 
approaching  stranger  on  horseback.  Raise  your  eyes 
again — where  is  she  now  ? Gone  ; disappeared  as  softly 
and  lightly  as  a deer  or  a squirrel — and  as  fleetly ; and, 
if  you  think  you  can  catch  her,  she  will  laugh  at  you 
from  afar  ! But  if  you  stay  long  enough  in  one  neigh- 
bourhood you  may  win  her  regard. 

I do  not  know  that  the  sentiment  of  love  exists 
very  strongly  among  these  people.  The  Cholo  attaches 
little  importance  as  to  the  chastity  of  his  female  com- 
panion before  their  lot  in  common  began.  Probably  he 
looks  upon  her  as  a sort  of  superior  chattel,  after  the 
general  custom  of  semi  - barbarous  races.  Indeed,  her 
capacities  as  a housewife,  and  whatever  property  she 
may  have,  in  the  form  of  cows  or  sheep,  are  more 
important  to  him.  In  one  part  of  the  country  where  I 


142 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


sojourned,  a curious  custom  of  selection  of  a wife  exists. 
The  suitor,  having  declared  his  intentions,  is  permitted 
to  live  for  a term  of  six  months  with  the  girl  at  the 
house  of  her  parents.  At  the  expiration  of  this  time 
the  father  speaks  to  his  probable  son-in-law  somewhat 
in  this  wise.  “ Get  thee  hence,  call  thy  friends,  make 
ready,  we  will  feast,  and  thy  wife  may  depart  with  thee." 
If  the  suitor  is  satisfied  with  the  damsel,  from  the  know- 
ledge he  has  gained  of  her  in  the  above  period,  he  joy- 
fully carries  out  the  mandate ; and  all  duly  comes  off 
as  expected.  But  if,  on  the  other  hand,  he  is  not  satisfied, 
he  informs  her  father  of  that  fact ; when  the  latter,  aided 
by  his  own  wife  and  relations,  fall  upon  the  young  man 
and  thrash  him  with  sticks,  saying : “ Go  forth,  ungrateful 
one ! There  are  not  wanting  others  who  will  appreciate 
my  daughter!”  Any  children  resulting  from  this  temporary 
union  are  taken  care  of  in  the  house  of  the  disappointed 
father-in-law. 

I have  spoken  of  the  sentiment  of  love  among  these 
people,  and  probably  it  is  a plant  which  would  flourish 
with  more  vigour  under  kinder  cultivation.  I have 
observed  that  Chola  women  sometimes  acquire  a strong 
liking  for  foreigners  ; and,  personally,  I have  found  that, 
after  some  acquaintance,  and  on  being  treated  as  women, 
not  as  chattels,  they  have  developed  stronger  feelings.  I 
recollect  a Chola  girl,  in  one  place  where  I stayed,  who 
nearly  lost  her  life  in  trying  to  do  me  a service.  I had 
only  employed  her  in  the  prosaic  occupation  of  doing 
my  washing,  but  had  paid  her  promptly  always,  and 
treated  her  as  an  Englishman  always  treats  women. 
Possibly  I had — quien  sabe  — looked  kindly  at  her,  as 
man  will  look  at  a robust  and  well-formed  girl.  One 
evening  I was  writing  in  my  lonely  room,  when  a form 
intercepted  the  shaft  of  light  shed  by  the  lamp  through 
the  open  door  on  the  darkness  outside,  and  the  girl  came 
breathlessly  in,  almost  nude,  and  with  water  streaming 
from  her.  She  had  just  passed  the  river  which  ran  close 
by,  and  which  was  swollen  with  the  rain,  and  had  been 
carried  off  her  feet,  she  informed  me,  and  nearly  drowned, 


The  Peruvian  Indians  of  the  Andes  143 


struggling  ashore  in  the  dark,  alone.  The  object  of  this 
perilous  performance  was  to  inform  me  of  a plot  to  steal 
my  mules  that  night,  which  she  had  overheard  in  the 
village  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river.  Poor,  brave 
Chola  girl!  How  could  I reward  her?  She  wanted  no 
reward,  she  said  ; she  had  done  it  to  serve  me.  I gave 
her  brandy  and  quinine,  to  ward  off  the  tercianas , or 
malaria,  which  attacks  one  after  abusing  cold  water  in 
those  places,  and  made  her  wrap  herself  in  blankets,  for 
the  night  was  cold,  and  her  garments  had  principally 
remained  on  the  other  side.  I was  able  to  immediately 
take  such  measures  as  prevented  the  theft  of  the  mules, 
which  would  have  been  very  serious. 

On  another  occasion  I was  surprised  at  receiving 
amatory  advances  from  a prepossessing  young  Chola 
woman,  and  found  out  that  it  was  a result  of  the  follow- 
ing incident.  In  a village  near  at  hand  a chapel  had 
long  been  in  course  of  erection  ; but,  due  to  the  laziness 
and  parsimony  of  the  Indian  population,  the  roof  had 
not  been  put  on  in  time  for  the  dedication  by  the  visit- 
ing priest.  The  priest,  angered  at  this  neglect,  took  the 
opportunity  of  reading  his  flock  a stern  lecture  during 
the  celebration  of  mass,  reproaching  them,  and  saying : 
“ Lazy  and  ungrateful  ones ! Notwithstanding  that  an 
eminent  foreign  gentleman  and  engineer” — referring  to 
myself — “ has  come  all  the  way  from  his  country  to  visit 
you,  you  have  failed  to  complete  your  chapel.  What 
idea  will  this  gentleman  form  of  you  ? ” The  woman 
was  so  much  impressed  by  the  fact  of  my  name  being 
mentioned  during  the  mass,  that  she  conceived  a kind 
of  adoration  or  affection  for  me  on  this  account,  and 
this  was  the  reason  for  her  “ wooing  ” of  me ! 

Chola  women  often  look  very  stout,  but  they  are  not 
necessarily  so.  The  appearance  is  sometimes  due  to  the 
large  number  of  skirts  they  have  on.  This  is  considered 
an  evidence  of  wealth,  and  I have  seen  as  many  as  eight 
worn,  at  times.  This  has  fallen  under  my  observation 
when  I have  been  obliged,  on  journeys  in  remote  districts, 
to  sleep  in  Cholo  houses.  There  is  generally  but  one 


144  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

room,  and  the  whole  family  and  the  traveller  sleep  in  it, 
the  former  upon  the  floor,  and  the  latter  in  his  travelling- 
cot.  I have  often  congratulated  myself  on  having  brought 
this,  as  it  raised  me  some  18  inches  above  the  half- 
dozen  women,  children,  and  man,  who  were  my  hosts, 
and  above  the  other  numerous  inhabitants  of  lesser  cate- 
gory which  the  place  may  have  contained  ! Fortunately, 
in  the  Peruvian  highlands,  the  traveller  is  above  the 
“ flea  zone,”  if  I may  term  it  so,  for  fleas  do  not  live 
at  a greater  elevation  than  about  8, OCX)  feet  above  sea- 
level.  Unfortunately,  however,  “there  are  others”! 

One  of  the  most  objectionable  vermin  of  the  valley 
places  is  the  alacrart , or  scorpion.  This  horrible  little 
beast  stings,  and  causes  a bad,  and  sometimes  fatal, 
poisoning.  The  sting  is  a sharp  lancet  in  the  tail,  and 
it  is  a fact  that  the  reptile  stings  itself  and  dies  when 
unable  to  escape,  as  I have  several  times  observed.  Akin 
to  this  is  the  centipede,  which,  however,  I have  seen 
but  little  in  Peru,  although  plentifully  in  Mexico.  The 
scorpion  inhabits  old  walls,  and  thatched  roofs;  and  I 
have  often  seen  the  lace  - like  trail  which  marks  his 
course  in  the  dust  on  the  floors  of  abandoned  mine 
galleries. 

It  has  sometimes  been  rather  embarrassing  to  undress 
before  a room  full  of  women,  when  forced  to  sleep  in 
an  Indian  house  with  the  whole  family ; especially  to 
one  accustomed  to  put  on  his  pyjamas,  and  when  they 
all  stare  at  you  ; but  the  traveller  in  Spanish  America 
gets  used  to  these  and  many  other  similar  incidents  of 
travel. 

The  Indians  are  always  eager  to  exchange  work  for 
play,  and  to  seize  on  anything  in  the  nature  of  a fiesta , 
as  the  observance  of  the  numerous  “Saints’  days”  attest 
The  most  uproarious  time  is  that  of  Carnival.  The 
absurd  Carnival  customs — some  of  which  I have  described 
elsewhere — extend  even  to  the  most  remote  regions  and 
Indian  villages.  I had  hoped  to  escape  the  boisterous 
affair  on  one  occasion,  being  upon  an  expedition  to  the 
Marafton ; but  in  vain.  As  I was  riding  slowly  along, 


The  Peruvian  Indians  of  the  Andes  145 

across  an  almost  uninhabited  plateau,  meditating  upon 
anything  rather  than  carnival,  three  Indian  women 
issued  from  a hut,  and  stood  in  the  road  awaiting  me. 

“ Pardon,  Caballero,”  they  said,  as  I approached ; and, 
thinking  they  wanted  some  help,  or  something,  I drew 
rein.  But  I had  scarcely  opened  my  mouth  to  reply, 
when,  “ Paugh  ! ” — a handful  of  flour  was  flung  full  into 
my  face,  nearly  choking  me,  and  covering  me  with  white. 
The  three  Amazons  then  threw  themselves  upon  me, 
endeavouring  to  drag  me  from  the  saddle  and  to  take 
my  saddle-bags,  and  with  the  greatest  difficulty  could 
I resist  them.  Fighting  and  pushing,  with  my  india- 
rubber  cape  torn  to  strips,  I drove  the  spurs  into  the 
mule  and  started  off,  the  three  viragos  hanging  on  to 
the  stirrups,  bridle,  and  the  animal’s  tail.  A pretty 
figure  we  must  have  looked,  for  the  women  were  painted, 
and  inflamed  with  drink,  whilst  I was  covered  with  flour. 

I might  easily  have  got  rid  of  them  by  striking  them 
with  my  heavy  riding  - whip,  but  I could  not  bring 
myself  to  do  this.  My  servant,  however,  had  fewer 
scruples,  for,  seeing  what  was  taking  place,  he  had 
ridden  rapidly  up  and  now  laid  about  among  them  with 
a long  whip,  whereupon  the  women  let  go  for  a moment. 
This  was  sufficient,  and  putting  our  beasts  at  the  gallop 
we  left  them  soon  behind,  shrieking  and  tearing  along 
after  us. 

In  all  the  villages  I passed  through  during  those  three 
days — and  they  were  numerous — the  inhabitants,  without 
exception,  were  marching  about  in  painted  processions, 
or  dancing,  or  lying  drunk  by  the  roadside,  generally 
gaudily  decorated.  In  several  places  attempts  were  made 
- — generally  respectfully — to  stop  us  ; which,  however,  I 
resisted.  In  one  small  village  several  individuals,  drunk, 
and  brandishing  bottles  of  brandy  in  one  hand  and  clubs 
in  the  other,  demanded  that  I should  stop  and  drink 
with  them,  and  join  in  their  games.  Weary  of  their 
threats  and  nonsense,  I declined,  when  they  approached 
with  menacing  gestures  of  their  clubs ; one,  moreover 
brandishing  a machete.  Without  further  ceremony  or 

K 


U6 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


parley  I spurred  my  mule — a large,  powerful  animal — 
and  jumped  upon  the  leader  of  the  bandits,  full  force. 
He  rolled  like  a log  upon  the  road,  and  turning  upon 
another,  I struck  him  a heavy  blow  with  my  revolver- 
butt,  for  I had  slipped  the  weapon  out  of  my  pocket 
in  case  of  emergencies.  Away  he  staggered,  and  my 
servant  having  ridden  over  a third,  we  started  away  at 
a gallop,  pursued  by  the  whole  crowd  and  thousands 
of  dogs,  but  fortunately  we  outdistanced  them  easily. 
Poor,  ignorant,  and  backward  dwellers  of  those  regions ! 
When  will  the  light  of  real  progress  and  reason  dawn 
upon  ye? 

These  Cholo-Quechuas  are  a very  superstitious  people, 
and  it  is  greatly  for  that  reason  that  the  methods  of 
Papistry  have  been  so  easily  grafted  upon  them,  and  are 
retained.  They  have  curious  ideas,  inherited  from  pre- 
Columbian  days,  regarding  hobgoblins,  and  especially 
spirits,  which,  according  to  them,  inhabit  the  earth,  rocks, 
or  water,  or  lurk  in  valleys  and  forests.  It  is  common  in 
some  places  to  observe  the  Cholo,  when  he  eats  his  lunch 
on  a march  or  out  of.  doors,  offer  a little  maize,  meat, 
alcohol,  or  coca  to  the  rocks : to  the  spirit  which  he 
supposes  inhabits  it.  “Take,  eat,”  he  exclaims,  “so  that 
thou  mayest  not  eat  me ! ” When  a woman,  running, 
falls  down,  she  hastily  wraps  herself  in  her  skirt,  in 
order  that  she  may  not  become  pregnant  with  the  earth- 
spirit  ! And  she  always  instructs  her  child,  when  it 
stumbles  or  falls,  to  snatch  up  and  place  a little  earth 
in  its  mouth.  “ Eat  first ; so  as  to  prevent  it  eating 
thee,”  she  says. 

In  some  districts  there  is  held  to  exist  an  imaginary 
being  known  as  a Pistacoy  and  foreigners  are  some- 
times supposed  to  embody  it.  I recollect  on  one  occa- 
sion that  I required  a guide  to  conduct  me  across  the 
Cordillera,  and  I sent  my  boy  to  secure  one.  Impossible! 
For  some  reason  the  word  had  gone  round  that  I was 
a Pistaco\  None  would  accompany  me;  they  feared 
that  I “ would  cut  them  in  small  pieces  and  throw  them 
into  the  river  ” ! At  length,  under  promise  of  good  pay, 


The  Peruvian  Indians  of  the  Andes  147 

I secured  an  unwilling  individual.  He  took  leave  of 
wife  and  family,  embracing  them,  and  charged  his  friends 
with  their  care,  and  we  set  out,  he  keeping  far  ahead 
upon  the  road,  until  we  reached  the  summit.  When  the 
noon  hour  arrived  I called  him,  and  with  difficulty  I 
made  him  approach,  conversing  with  him,  and  telling 
him  that  he  might  return  home  now.  I also  made  him 
eat  some  of  my  lunch,  and  then,  paying  him  his  due, 
with  something  over,  I dismissed  him.  The  poor  fellow 
was  astonished  at  this  treatment,  and  departed  joyfully, 
and  I afterwards  heard  that  on  arriving  home  he  had 
called  his  friends  together,  and,  showing  them  his  neck, 
said  : “ Look,  I am  uninjured  ; the  misti  (gentleman)  has 
done  nothing  evil  to  me ! ” 

Another  curious  idea  or  superstition  in  certain  places 
is  that  the  Government  constantly  requires  “ human 
tallow”  for  greasing  the  soldiers’  carbines,  and  that  the 
gobernadores  are  sometimes  commissioned  to  have  Indians 
killed  and  boiled  down  for  this  purpose.  They  also 
greatly  fear  any  kind  of  machinery,  until  they  are  used 
to  it,  fearing  that  the  Pistaco  dwells  therein,  and  also 
requires  human  tallow  for  lubrication.  A friend  of  mine, 
who  had  a small  mill  in  a certain  region,  informed  me 
that  an  Indian  had  approached  him  on  the  previous 
day,  saying  that  he  had  an  enemy  he  desired  to  be  rid 
of.  “ He  is  a fat  man,  and  would  yield,  were  he  boiled 
down,  a large  quantity  of  human  tallow,”  he  had  said. 
How  this  remarkable  idea  arose  I do  not  know,  but  it 
is  generally  stated  to  have  been  an  invention  of  the 
Spaniards. 

The  Cholo  - Quechua  Indians  are  of  a poetical  and 
melancholy  habit  of  thought,  although  often  happy  and 
simple  as  children.  They  are  fond  of  music,  and  they 
have  even  invented  a species  of  national  piece,  well- 
known  in  Peru,  and  termed  the  Yavari.  Their  chief 
instruments  are  pan-pipes  and  flutes.  Among  the  ancient 
dwellings  of  the  “ Gentiles,”  described  elsewhere,  there  is 
a hill  covered  with  ruins,  near  Huantar,  and  which  is 
still  known  by  the  name  meaning  “ the  hill  of  the  flute  ” 


148 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


It  was  so  called  because  the  tribe  inhabiting  it  had 
installed  large  flutes  in  the  high  apertures  of  the  rock, 
which,  due  to  the  draught  blowing  up  from  some  cave 
below,  gave  forth  a continuous,  mournful  sound,  which 
was  heard  far  and  wide  by  the  tribes  on  the  adjacent 
hills. 

An  exceedingly  curious  and  mournful  sound  is  produced 
by  the  playing  of  the  flute  inside  a large  earthen  pot, 
or  olla.  This  strange  melody  is  practised  much  in  some 
regions ; and  Ricardo  Palma,  a Peruvian  writer,  tells  an 
affecting  story  of  a young  priest,  which  this  matter  brings 
to  mind.  The  priest  passionately  loved  a beautiful  Indian 
girl,  who  lived  with  him  as  his  mistress.  On  a certain 
occasion  he  was  called  away  to  a distant  region,  and 
during  his  absence  the  girl  fell  ill,  and  died  a few  hours 
before  his  return.  Overcome  with  the  most  poignant 
grief,  he  shut  himself  in  the  habitation  with  the  dead 
body,  and  refused  to  hold  communication  with  the  out- 
side world.  By  day  and  night,  intermittently  floating  on 
the  wind,  the  mournful  sound  of  the  flute  played  inside 
the  olla  was  heard  by  the  neighbours  for  more  than  eight 
days,  when  it  was  heard  no  more.  The  door  was  at 
length  broken  open,  and  they  entered.  The  young  priest 
was  lying  on  the  couch  with  the  form  of  his  beloved  in 
his  arms — dead  also. 

During  my  enforced  sojourn  in  remote  places  I have 
often  lent  ear  to  the  curious  and  poetical  folk-lore  of 
these  people,  who  delight  in  such  ; and  the  gobernadores 
and  priests,  whose  guests  I have  often  been,  have  beguiled 
the  hours  with  me  in  anecdote  and  story.  Sometimes, 
although  not  a good  raconteur , and  it  being  also  not 
easy  to  relate  such  matters  in  a foreign  language,  I have 
recounted  stories  from  English  literature  to  them.  1 
recollect  that  on  one  occasion  the  gobernador  was  reduced 
to  tears  at  my  recital  of  the  story  of  the  “ Mistletoe 
Bough  ” — the  story  of  Christmas  - time  memories.  He 
was  much  affected  at  the  description  of  the  finding  of 
the  skeleton  and  tattered  wedding  dress  years  afterwards 
in  the  old  chest. 


The  Peruvian  Indians  of  the  Andes  149 


The  Quechua  and  Aymara  languages,  which  differ 
from  each  other  somewhat,  but  have,  nevertheless,  much 
of  similarity,  are  quite  poetical  in  their  words  and  the 
ideas  they  express.  I recollect  an  old  Cholo  Indian  who 
came  along  one  evening  with  his  flute,  poor,  and  asking 
food  and  shelter.  He  sang  us  songs  low  and  musical,  to 
his  own  accompaniment,  in  Quechua — extempore  songs, 
said  the  people  at  whose  hacienda  I was — and  he  desired 
to  sing  one  in  my  honour,  which  he  did,  extempore , with  a 
pretty  refrain  repeated  at  the  end  of  each  verse.  This 
refrain  they  translated  for  me  into  Spanish,  and  the  burden 
of  it  was  that  the  misti  (myself)  “had  come  from  a far 
country,  here,  his  only  lamp  being  the  moon.” 

The  word  misti  is  a Quechua  word  meaning  Senory 
or  “Gentleman,”  and  is  applied  by  the  Indians  to  a 
superior.  When  you  ask  one  of  these  people  their 
opinion  of  the  probable  course  of  the  weather,  and  it 
happens  to  look  a little  stormy,  he  sometimes  replies : 
“ Misti  manchachip  which  means  to  say  that  it  will  be  a 
shower  only ; that  is,  it  will  be  something  that  will 
perturb  a misti , but  would  not  bother  an  Indian ! 

The  Indians  of  the  Andean  regions  often  give  very 
appropriate  names  to  places,  at  times  even  poetical  ones. 
I have  always  enquired  carefully  into  the  names  of  places, 
and  have  written  them  with  the  Spanish  spelling,  when 
possible.  It  is  generally  to  be  found  that  all  places — 
such  as  hills  or  valleys  or  any  abrupt  topographical 
change — has  its  Indian  name  whenever  there  are  any 
inhabitants  in  the  region.  On  one  occasion  I required 
the  name  of  a certain  hill,  in  order  to  mark  it  on  the 
map  of  some  mining  concessions  I had  taken,  near  the 
Upper  Marafion.  There  appeared  to  be  no  name,  or  no 
one  who  could  give  it,  but  at  length  I found  a solitary 
Indian  house,  with  its  occupant  of  an  old  Cholo  Indian, 
close  at  hand.  He  knew  the  name  of  the  hill  well  enough, 
and  its  signification  in  English  was,  “ House  of  the  winds,” 
or  perhaps  better  expressed,  “ Abiding-place  of  the  wind- 
god.”  Singularly  appropriate  it  was,  for  it  was  a high  and 
wind-swept  place.  Not  far  away  was  another  hill,  where 


150 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


the  Indians  had  driven  galleries  into  the  gravel  to  extract 
gold.  On  enquiring  its  name,  I was  informed  that  it  was 
called  Puma-Chupan — Quechua  for  “lion’s  tail”;  and,  really, 
on  observing  the  contour  of  the  hill,  it  seemed  to  have  a 
form  which  suggested  the  name — tapering  off  in  a curve. 
Speaking  of  the  term  puma , it  is  to  be  noted  that  the 
Quechua  language  has  given  us  this  word  in  English. 
Nor  is  this  the  only  one  derived  from  that  source,  for  we 
also  use  pampa  in  speaking  of  South  American  plains  land. 
Other  words  of  Peruvian  origin  used  in,  or  adapted  to, 
English  are  the  names  of  products,  such  as  cocaine,  from 
coca,  cocoa,  quinine,  and  others,  also  condor ; and  the 
word  “jerked,”  applied  to  dried  beef,  is  a corruption  of 
the  Chilian  Indian  term  Charqui.  Alpaca,  Vicuna,  and 
Llama  are,  also,  Quechua  words. 

Most  of  the  Indian  names  of  places — and  they  are  all 
preserved  on  present  maps — are  due  to  topographical  or 
climatological  nomenclature,  and  their  explanation  is 
generally  forthcoming  to  the  traveller  who  enquires  of 
the  inhabitants  of  the  particular  spot,  or  studies  a 
Quechua  dictionary. 

I have  always  felt  drawn  towards  these  poor  people. 
I should  like  to  alleviate  their  hard  lot,  if  it  were  possible. 
They  have  many  good  qualities,  which  cannot,  however, 
expand  under  the  existing  regime , unless  the  Peruvians 
who  govern  them  make  some  advance  in  their  methods. 
They  are  too  often  ill-treated  and  exploited,  and  kept  in 
ignorance.  Let  me  translate  from  a recent  number  of  the 
Comercio — leading  newspaper  of  Lima — in  this  connection, 
in  order  that  my  statements  may  not  be  criticised  as 
exaggerated.  Under  the  heading,  “Exactions  against  the 
Indians,”  the  paper  says  : 

“It  is  not  rare,  unfortunately,  in  the  Republic,  that 
the  authorities  of  all  kinds  raise  up  abuses  as  supreme 
law  against  the  villages  of  the  interior.  For  the  Indians 
of  the  mountain  and  the  punas , and  even  of  regions 
nearer  the  coast,  there  often  exists  neither  the  Con- 
stitution nor  positive  rights.  It  would  be  useless  to 
seek  in  the  indigenous  race  beings  really  free,  and 


The  Peruvian  Indians  of  the  Andes  151 


masters  of  their  acts  and  persons.  It  looks  as  though 
independence  had  only  been  saved  for  the  dweller  of  the 
coast ! From  the  moment  that  the  traveller’s  view  ceases 
to  observe  the  ocean,  and  is  directed  over  the  interminable 
chain  of  the  Andes,  it  ceases  also  to  observe  free  men,  the 
citizens  of  an  independent  republic  ! To  this  condition — 
which  is  not  abnormal,  because  it  has  always  existed — the 
ignorance  of  the  Indian  contributes,  but  also  the  abuses  of 
the  authorities,  who,  with  rare  exceptions,  make  of  them 
objects  of  odious  spoliation.  Such  depredations  are  aggra- 
vated when  its  victims  are  unfortunate  and  unhappy  beings, 
towards  whom  there  is  every  obligation  to  protect,  and  not 
to  exploit.” 

Of  course,  the  Indian’s  lot  is  better  under  the  Republic 
than  it  was  in  the  Colonial  days  of  Spain.  They  are  not 
slaves,  and  forced  work  is  not  legally  permitted.  The 
evils  to  which  they  are  principally  subject  at  present 
apart  from  the  matters  of  priestcraft  and  alcohol,  are : 
abuse  of  power  by  the  petty  authorities,  including  the 
defrauding  them  of  part,  or  all,  of  their  wages,  when  under 
employ  ; false  imprisonment ; abuses  connected  with  con- 
scription ; confiscation  of  their  property ; fraud  in  selling  to 
or  buying  from  them  ; in  fact,  petty  oppression  of  all  kinds. 
For  his  part  the  Indian  is,  or  becomes,  lying,  tricky,  lazy, 
and  dishonest.  Improvement  must  to  some  extent  be 
mutual,  but  must  begin  with  the  authorities.  What  is 
the  remedy  ? A higher  standard  in  these  authorities 
should  be  inaugurated.  The  Central  Government  should 
create  and  maintain  a civil  service,  and  endeavour  to 
form  a body  of  small  rulers  such  as  render  such  splendid 
service  to  Britain,  in  such  countries  as  India,  and  other 
dependencies ; and  last,  but  not  least,  immigration  must 
be  brought  about,  in  order  to  change  the  stagnation  of 
the  existing  condition,  by  bringing  in  influences  and  new 
ideas  from  the  outside. 


CHAPTER  XIV 


THE  CHURCH  IN  PERU 

In  considering  the  conditions  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
Church  in  South  America,  and  the  priests  which  officiate 
there,  the  observer  should  strive  to  be  impartial  in  his 
criticism.  It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  Church  is 
an  organisation  which  was  primarily  established  for  good ; 
and,  really,  it  is  necessary  at  times  to  remind  oneself  of 
the  fact.  It  is  an  organisation  with  a complicated  and 
powerful  machinery,  which,  whatever  its  defects,  could  not 
be  hastily  replaced  by  another  system,  supposing  it  were 
suddenly  banished.  It  is,  in  Peru,  a restraining  authority, 
especially  among  the  semi-savage  population  of  Indians, 
and  as  such  performs  certain  useful  functions.  It  is  also 
the  religion  of  an  intelligent  upper  class,  and  as  such 
may  not  be  too  hastily  considered.  As  a restraining  and 
organising  device,  therefore,  exist  its  principal  merits  ; and 
as  a medium  of  real  religious  thought  and  a vehicle  for 
the  teachings  and  operations  of  truth  and  reason,  it  is 
perhaps  not  much  more  faulty  than  other  systems  in  other 
countries  and  Churches. 

It  is  necessary  to  make  the  above  admission,  and  to 
bear  it  in  mind,  lest  the  criticism  of  the  traveller  and 
observer  become  altogether  harsh  and  denunciatory ; and 
so  having  taken  up  this  neutral  stand,  let  us  examine  the 
conditions  under  which  the  system  lives,  and  the  machinery 
operates. 

In  the  interior  towns,  away  from  the  Capital,  the 
church  or  temple  is  a structure  of  adobe , or  sun-dried 
earthen  bricks.  This  material  does  not  lend  itself  to 
any  form  of  architectural  beauty ; nor  is  the  knowledge 

152 


The  Church  in  Peru 


158 


of  architecture  possessed  by  those  who  are,  or  were, 
responsible  for  its  erection,  of  an  advanced  order.  At 
a distance  these  edifices  possess  a certain  picturesque 
appearance ; they  have  an  air  of  romance  and  antiquity, 
such  as  is  not  possessed,  for  example,  by  the  prosaic 
wooden  or  iron  structures  found  in  small  interior  towns 
in  North  America.  Their  whitewashed  earthen  walls, 
and  red-tiled  or  thatched  roofs,  blend  into  harmony  with 
their  surroundings,  as  the  traveller  approaches ; and, 
surmounted  by  the  blue  sky  of  the  uplands,  and  perhaps 
backed  by  the  white  and  shining  peaks  of  some  snow- 
capped Cordillera,  they  form  features  of  man’s  handiwork 
in  the  landscape  which  are  restful  to  the  eye,  and  of 
seeming  promise. 

But,  alas ! on  approaching,  these  features  are  found  to 
have  been  but  the  enchantment  which  distance  lends. 
The  buildings  are  primitive  and  tawdry  ; their  exteriors 
ill-proportioned,  and  their  parts  badly  executed.  Both 
lack  of  skill  and  lack  of  care  are  evident  in  their 
construction. 

In  the  interior,  paint  and  tinsel,  gaudy  images  and 
unclean  mirrors,  rob  the  whole  of  that  air  of  dignity, 
and  banish  the  sentiment  of  reverence  which  houses 
reared  to  God  possess  and  inspire  in  the  mind  of  the 
observer  under  other  conditions.  Here  are  glass  cases 
enclosing  painted,  tawdry,  and  simpering  dolls ; here 
are  hideous  life-sized  figures  with  crowns  of  thorns  upon 
their  brows  and  modelled  clots  of  blood  upon  their 
ghastly  semblances.  Here  are  rudely-constructed  cruci- 
fixes and  badly-painted  pictures,  dirty  walls  and  floors, 
gaudy  altars  and  multitudinous  candles ; tumbledown 
confessional  boxes,  and  rickety  furniture,  often  carelessly 
improvised  from  unsuitable  material.  Here  are  all  the 
foolish  trappings  and  machinery  of  what  scarcely  seems 
less  than  idolatry  and  superstition,  and  which  helps  to 
keep  in  domination  and  ignorance  the  unfortunate  votaries 
of  these  semi-barbarous  regions,  and  serves  as  the  medium, 
often,  for  their  cynical  exploitation.  Alas ! for  the  name 
of  religion ; for  the  easy  credulity  of  poor  mankind,  and 


154 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


for  the  stupidity  and  duplicity — both — of  priestcraft.  A 
prey  to  depression,  and  with  a note  of  protest  uselessly 
registering  itself  in  his  mind,  the  observer  leaves  the 
building,  passing  between  the  crowd  of  ignorant  and 
dirty  Indian  “worshippers”  grovelling  upon  the  floor. 

Again  outside,  he  ponders  on  the  friable  and  “ tem- 
porary” appearing  material  of  which  the  edifices  are 
constructed.  They  are  not  monuments  of  beauty  and 
stability  which  could  endure  for  centuries,  and  remain 
as  eloquent  witnesses — at  least,  to  the  sincerity  of  those 
who  reared  them  ; they  are  not  legacies  left  to  genera- 
tions to  come,  such  as  the  sculptured  temples  of  Britain 
and  Europe ; and  they  seem  to  bear  upon  them  the  stamp 
of  early  perishableness,  as  if  the  methods  and  ideals  which 
they  shelter,  should  endure  but  a brief  span  upon  the  pages 
of  the  future. 

Is  this  criticism  not  too  harsh?  It  does  not  seem  so 
if  we  judge  the  matter  in  the  light  of  an  ideal  of  truth 
and  common-sense,  but  it  seems  harsh  if  we  look  at  it 
in  comparison  with  the  temples  in  our  own  country. 
Behold  the  churches  in  our  towns ! Are  they  not  some- 
times the  abode  of  curious  rites  and  priestly  appurte- 
nances, of  draperies,  candles,  genuflexions,  affectations, 
and  singular  and  mysterious  operations?  If  churches 
exist  at  all  in  their  present  form  they  must,  presumably, 
have  these  accessories,  and  between  those  of  one  country 
and  another,  then  use  or  abuse  is  only  a question  of 
degree.  If  the  buildings,  which  in  Britain  shelter  them, 
are  more  beautiful  architecturally,  and  are  of  greater 
permanence  as  structures,  this  is  due  to  their  having 
been  erected  by  richer  and  cleverer  communities.  The 
sculptured  stone  upon  which  the  artists  of  past  centuries 
lavished  their  love  and  skill  have,  it  is  true,  little  counter- 
part in  the  poorer  structures  of  Spanish-American  interior 
towns.  But  it  must  be  remembered  that  these  have  often 
been  raised  by  the  united  efforts  of  poor  Indians,  who 
give  their  time  and  work  as  a labour  of  love  thereto. 
Often,  on  the  beams  and  rafters  of  the  roof,  one  observes 
the  names  of  their  constructors — poor  and  simple  Indian 


The  Church  in  Peru 


155 


carpenters — burned  into  the  wood-work  in  rude  letters, 
setting  forth  the  date  and  occasion,  and  generally  accom- 
panied by  some  devout  phrase.  The  widow’s  mite ! 

It  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  all  the  temples  of  the 
country  are  of  the  above  primitive  nature,  however ; the 
cathedrals  of  the  Capitals,  principally  Lima,  Trujillo, 
and  Arequipa,  are  large,  handsome,  and  durable  buildings, 
with  chaste  interiors,  and,  saving  earthquakes,  may  last 
for  ever. 

It  is  a debatable  point  with  the  traveller,  whether 
he  shall  describe  and  criticise  the  religious  matters  of 
a community,  or  whether  he  shall  let  the  subject  entirely 
alone.  It  is  a delicate  subject.  By  nothing  are  a people 
more  easily  offended  ; and  in  nothing  is  the  critic  more 
likely  to  fall  into  a denunciatory  line  of  thought  or 
expression.  It  is  especially  difficult  to  the  student  of 
science  to  avoid  condemning  when  the  subject  of  his 
criticism  is  the  religion  of  Roman  Catholic  countries, 
and,  above  all,  of  those  which  bear  the  stamp  of  Spain. 
But,  as  before  stated,  the  thinker  and  true  observer  must 
be  a universalist.  He  will  strive  ever  to  see  the  good 
in  these  things,  as  well  as,  or  in  superior  relation  to,  their 
defects.  To  him,  nothing  can  be  utterly  condemned,  for 
he  ever — 

“Trusts  that,  somehow,  good 
Will  be  the  final  goal  of  ill ! ” 

Treated  as  a matter  of  courtesy,  the  foreign  critic 
need  have  no  scruples,  however,  with  regard  to  his 
handling  of  Roman  Catholicism.  Whatever  happens  he 
is  a “ heretic  ” ! 

The  careful  observation  of  the  traveller  in  the  interior 
of  Peru  regarding  religious  practices  will,  it  may  be  stated 
at  the  outset,  lead  him  to  conclusions  which  can  be  but 
little  short  of  condemnatory.  His  scruples  will,  moreover, 
be  less  when  it  is  seen  that  there  are  no  stronger  critics 
of  the  priests,  in  their  country,  than  the  Peruvians 
themselves. 

If  it  were  possible  to  lay  bare  the  inmost  thoughts 


15G 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


of  a great  many  of  these  clericals  it  seems  probable 
that  it  would  be  seen  that  they  look  upon  their  profession 
principally  from  the  point  of  view  of  expediency ; or 
as  a means  to  their  own  living  and  enrichment.  For, 
it  is  incredible  that  a body  of  men,  if  they  were  of 
righteous  ways  of  thought,  or  philosbphical,  or  ordinarily 
intelligent,  could  follow  the  methods  which  they  adopt, 
or  perpetuate  the  singular  mediaeval  customs  which  do 
duty  for  religion.  There  are,  of  course,  exceptions, 
especially  among  the  self  - sacrificing  missionary  priests 
who  live  among  the  savages  of  the  Montafta  or  region 
of  the  forests. 

But  it  is  only  a truism  to  state  that  a country  whose 
national  religion  is  Roman  Catholicism  is  handicapped 
from  the  very  beginning,  in  its  social  and  industrial 
development.  Whatever  may  be  the  true  principle  of 
this  religious  system,  its  methods  are  antagonistic  to 
progress ; the  fact  is  rendered  evident  by  an  examina- 
tion of  any  of  these  nations.  Inexplicable,  truly,  are 
the  operations  of  destiny,  or  whatever  term  may  be 
applied  to  the  workings  of  circumstance,  that  this  old 
religion  of  an  old  age  and  of  the  Old  World  should  have 
been  transplanted  to  this  virgin  soil  of  the  New  World, 
there  to  so  long  detain  the  hands  of  time  and  progress. 

The  total  number  of  priests  at  present  in  the  country 
must  be  difficult  to  estimate,  for  they  are  continually 
arriving  from  other  countries,  especially  from  France, 
Italy,  and  Spain.  To  the  Briton,  accustomed  to  the 
refined  and  educated  clergy  of  his  own  country  and 
Church,  the  appearance  and  methods  of  the  curas  of 
Spanish  America  is  a matter  for  surprise.  In  the  interior 
towns  of  Peru  (and  other  similar  countries)  the  cura  is 
often  an  individual  of  unprepossessing  appearance ; some- 
times dressed  in  a slovenly  manner,  unshaven,  probably 
unwashed,  and  living  on  and  exploiting  the  poor  Indians 
in  a way  difficult  to  realise  in  a more  civilised  country. 
These  priests  often  become  exceedingly  wealthy,  due  to 
the  contributions  w’hich  they  exact  from  the  Indians. 
They  possess  lands,  flocks,  and  herds,  and  even  mines ; 


Religious  Procession  xe\r 


The  Church  in  Peru  157 

and  this  even  in  the  very  poorest  communities,  at 
times. 

In  one  of  my  journeys  I stopped  at  a little  village 
at  the  'foot  of  the  Andes,  one  evening.  The  topic  of 
conversation  for  the  moment  among  the  people  there 
was  regarding  a “ deal  ” which  had  just  been  performed 
by  the  cura.  This  worthy  had  long  had  his  eye  on  a 
fine  herd  of  forty  bullocks,  belonging  to  an  old  woman 
who  lived  near  by.  The  old  soul  was  ill,  and  thought 
she  was  about  to  die,  and  the  enterprising  priest  had 
just  “concluded  a treaty”  in  which  she  made  the  herd 
of  bullocks  over  to  him,  receiving  in  return  “ the  road 
to  heaven  ” ! I was  unable  to  find  out  whether  any 
document  accompanied  this  exchange,  or  whether  it 
was  only  verbal ; but  the  woman  had  recovered,  and 
was  now  demanding  her  bullocks  back  again ! 

On  another  occasion  I was  riding  along  a road  which 
passed  through  well-cultivated  fields  and  plantations.  I 
asked  my  boy  to  whom  they  belonged,  and  he  replied  : 
“ They  are  the  property  of  the  cura,  Senor.”  I rode  on  for 
a space ; other  fine  plantations  lined  the  road  on  either 
hand,  and  again  I asked  who  was  the  owner.  “ They 
belong  to  the  cura  now,  Senor,”  he  again  replied.  Some 
distance  further  on  a well-built  house  was  seen,  by  the 
roadside,  and  as  I passed  a pretty  girl  appeared  at  the  door, 
and  smiled.  “ Whose  is  this  house  ? ” I again  asked  my 
servant;  and  again  came  the  same  reply  : “ It  is  the  curds , 
Senor.”  “ And  whose  is  that  nice  - looking  girl  there  ? ” 
I continued  to  interrogate,  as  I eyed  the  smiling  damsel. 
“ Oh,  she  belongs  to  the  cura,  Senor,”  he  stolidly  replied. 
I put  spurs  to  my  horse  and  departed  at  a gallop, 
without  drawing  rein  until  I had  arrived  far  beyond  the 
limits  of  the  curds  jurisdiction  ! 

The  law  requiring  celibacy  among  the  priests  in  Peru 
is  honoured  in  the  breach  rather  than  in  the  observance. 
In  the  interior  towns  and  small  villages  they  often  live 
openly  with  their  families.  This,  to  an  Englishman,  of 
course,  is  remarkable  only  as  being  a breach  of  the 
principles  to  which  they  are  supposed  to  conform.  To 


158 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


the  philosophical  mind,  or  even  to  the  rulings  of  ordinary 
common-sense,  it  is  only  censurable  for  the  same  reason. 
The  fatuous  ordinance  which  would  condemn  men  to 
live  without  women  entirely  defeats  its  own  end,  and 
creates  evils  which  are  far-reaching.  The  immorality  of 
the  curas , in  many  places,  is  so  common  as  scarcely  to  call 
for  comment  among  the  inhabitants  of  the  place;  and 
any  allusion  to  the  matter  of  their  wives  only  induces  a 
smile  or  a shrug  of  the  shoulders.  The  female  companion 
of  a priest  has  no  standing  socially ; and  if  she  is  not 
openly  ostracised  by  the  people  among  whom  she  dwells, 
she  is  nevertheless  regarded  askance,  as  are,  also,  her 
offspring,  who  are  commonly  termed  “ Anti-Cristo” ! 

These  priests,  notwithstanding  their  failings,  are  gener- 
ally hospitable.  I have  often  arrived  with  my  men  and 
animals  at  a place  where  I knew  absolutely  no  one.  In 
such  cases  I have  gone  direct  to  the  house  of  the  priest 
in  order  to  secure  food  and  lodging,  for,  it  need  scarcely 
be  stated,  there  are  no  hotels.  They  have  always  brought 
forth  the  best  they  had,  and  conversed  intelligently  upon 
the  topics  of  the  day  ; and  I retain  many  pleasant  recol- 
lections of  my  stay  in  their  houses.  The  civil  adminis- 
tration of  these  places  consists  of  a Gobernador — rather 
a high  - sounding  name  for  the  type  of  individual  who 
generally  j>erforms  the  office ; and  these  are  sometimes 
not  able  to  put  very  much  before  the  traveller  in  the 
way  of  comfort.  The  priest  is  generally  the  best-educated 
person  in  the  place,  and  the  power  he  exercises  is 
autocratic. 

These  two  elements — the  civil,  as  represented  by  the 
gobernador,  and  the  ecclesiastical,  represented  by  the 
cura — are  often  in  considerable  friction.  This  is  not  an 
undesirable  condition,  for,  otherwise,  either  one  would 
become  too  absolute ; and  it  preserves  a species  of  equili- 
brium in  the  social  state  of  their  primitive  communities. 

The  Church  is  a heavy  load  for  Peru.  That  is  to  say, 
it  is  the  same  load  which  all  countries  whose  destiny  it 
has  been  to  exist  under  the  Church  of  Rome  have  to  bear. 
Unfortunate  destiny,  it  were  more  true  to  say,  for  all 


The  Church  in  Peru 


159 


these  papist-dominated  communities,  in  whatever  part  of 
the  world,  show  the  retarding  action  of  the  load  they  bear. 
Does  it  yield  any  corresponding  advantages?  Observa- 
tion shows  that  it  does.  The  deeply  religious  practices  of 
the  women  in  Spanish  America  inculcate  a strong  sense 
of  refinement ; vulgar  women,  such  as  the  Anglo-Saxon 
type  produces,  are  unknown  in  Spanish  America.  The 
upper  class  is  refined  and  proud ; the  lower  modest  and 
respectful.  Also,  the  condition  known  as  “ race  suicide  ” 
obtains  no  foothold  in  these  communities,  nor  is  it  likely 
to  do  so  whilst  the  women  remain  influenced  by  this 
religion.  But  it  does  not  inculcate  morality  generally. 
Spanish-American  women  have,  probably,  a less  sense  of 
honour  than  Anglo-Saxon  as  regards  relations  between 
the  sexes ; and  marital  fidelity  seems  to  be  less  strong. 
They  are  much  more  creatures  of  impulse  than  the  women 
of  more  northern  nations. 

The  tendency  of  the  Roman  Catholic  religion  is  to 
keep  its  world  stationary,  to  endure  the  evils  it  has  in 
stagnant  peace,  rather  than  to  go  on  to  “evils  which  it 
wots  not  of”  ; evils  of  development,  which  must  be  passed 
by  mankind  on  his  road  to  good.  For  without  change 
and  experience  there  is  no  progress,  and  that  part  of 
mankind  which  fears  to  pass  the  milestones  of  evolution, 
must  ever  remain  secondary  in  the  world’s  advancement. 


CHAPTER  XV 


THE  HIGH  ANDEAN  PLATEAUX 

I HAVE  before  remarked  upon  the  structure  of  the  Andes, 
and  the  influence  of  the  different  regions  of  the  Andean 
territory  upon  the  races  which  inhabit  the  country. 

The  traveller,  after  gaining  some  knowledge  of  Peru, 
and  the  similar  bordering  countries  of  South  America, 
finds  himself  naturally  referring  all  places  to  their  altitude. 
If  such  and  such  a town,  place,  mine,  or  region  is 
mentioned,  his  first  idea  is  to  ask  what  is  its  altitude 
above  sea-level,  for  this  will  at  once  determine  its  prime 
characteristics,  such  as  climate,  rainfall,  heat  or  cold, 
means  or  methods  of  communication,  provisions,  and 
so  forth  ; and  this  directs  his  choice  of  clothing,  and,  in 
short,  all  the  preparations  he  must  make  to  visit  it  As 
regards  weather  in  the  Cordilleran  regions,  he  may  take 
it  as  an  axiom  never  to  go  without  his  impermeable 
riding  cape,  and  thick  woollen  ponchos.  However  fair 
the  heavens  are  at  starting,  they  may  at  any  moment 
pour  out  their  floods  of  rain  and  hail.  A Peruvian 
proverb  runs  in  this  wise : M A dog’s  limping,  a woman’s 
pouting,  and  a Cordilleran  sky : be  ye  ever  doubting ! ” 

Peru  has  been  likened  to  a sheet  of  notepaper 
crumpled  up  in  the  hand  and  allowed  to  open ; and, 
indeed,  the  Andean  region  is  so  crumpled,  so  broken  up 
into  ridges  and  valleys,  and  sub- ridges  and  sub- valleys, 
in  every  conceivable  direction,  that  the  traveller  often 
wonders  where  are  the  “ flat  ” places.  Moreover,  the  first 
essential  for  a large  civilised  population  is  the  existence 
of  large,  “ flat  ” places ; and  I have  before  remarked  that 
Nature  is  still  at  work  here  in  preparing  the  land  for 

160 


The  high  plateaux  : head  of  a valley,  and  Inca  ruins. 


161 


The  High  Andean  Plateaux 

habitation.  Her  elements  work  day  and  night  to  that 
end.  The  crests  of  mountains  are  worn  away,  particle 
by  particle,  and  carried  down  to  the  streams  and  rivers 
to  form  new  plains.  I have  observed  the  slopes  of  the 
hills  veritably  groaning  and  disintegrating  under  the 
action  of  the  elements,  at  times,  and  this  is  no  figure 
of  speech.  For  example,  after  a snow-storm  and  frost 
a hot  sun  comes  out.  The  snow  thaws  ; the  rocks  split ; 
flakes  of  stone  and  soil  fall  down  the  slopes  with  audible 
noise  and  visible  movement.  The  limestones  are  also 
pitted  in  curious  forms  by  the  action  of  acids  in  the  air 
and  water ; the  granites  disintegrate  and  form  sand,  or 
the  remarkable  spherical  shapes  which  at  times  are  seen, 
giving  the  slopes  the  appearance  of  great  fields  strewn 
with  skulls.  These  become  detached,  and  roll  down  to 
the  stream  beds,  or  go  to  pieces  in  their  characteristic 
onion-like  peeling  process.  The  porphyries,  at  times, 
form  the  most  remarkable  groups  of  natural  sculpture, 
which  almost  startle  the  horseman,  as,  in  a reverie,  he 
descends  the  winding  trail  among  them.  I recollect  one 
statue  of  a gigantic  friar  with  a cowl,  which  I used  to 
pass  regularly  for  some  time  at  a certain  place.  The 
quartzites  last  the  longest ; they  only  fall  away  in  blocks, 
and  do  not  decompose,  but  are  slowly  ground  to  sand 
by  their  mutual  friction  under  the  action  of  moving 
water.  In  Peru  I have  observed  a curious  and  elegant 
form  of  lichen,  which  I have  never  seen  on  any  other 
rocks  than  the  quartzite,  and  I could  generally  distinguish 
this  particular  kind  of  stone  for  that  reason  before 
examining  a clean  fracture. 

Earthquakes  here  are  also  destructive  and  constructive 
in  their  effect.  In  one  part  of  the  Andean  Cordillera, 
where  I stayed  for  some  months,  I almost  daily  recorded 
slight  shocks,  and  continuously  observed  new  boulders 
upon  the  paths  or  stream  beds  which  had  been  brought 
down  by  this  agency  during  the  night.  In  short,  the 
traveller  has  continually  before  him  the  most  striking 
object-lesson  of  the  forces  of  Nature  at  work  in  her 
rebuilding. 


L 


162 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


The  hydrographic  structure  and  functions  of  the  Andes 
have  already  been  touched  upon.  The  Andes  may  be 
considered  as  a mighty  machine  which  collects  and  stores 
up  water  on  its  summits  in  the  form  of  permanent  ice,  as 
the  ice-  and  snow-cap,  which,  ever  thawing  on  its  lower 
edge,  gives  birth  to  the  streams  which  flow  down  both 
eastern  and  western  slopes.  The  value  of  the  Andes 
as  an  “hydraulic  machine”  will  in  the  future  be  more 
and  more  taken  into  account ; for  its  powers  are  very 
evident  to  the  observations  of  the  engineer  who  travels 
there.  Water-power  will  be  developed  on  a large  scale 
some  day,  and  hydro-electric  stations  established  which 
will  supply  mines,  manufactories,  and  agriculture,  with 
mechanical  energy,  as  is  being  done  so  largely  in  Italy, 
Switzerland,  California,  Africa,  etc.  The  value  of  this 
source  of  energy  is  considerable ; the  streams  which  flow 
down  the  western  or  Pacific  slope  have  a very  rapid  fall 
in  a short  trajectory,  and  although  their  volumes  are  not 
generally  large,  nevertheless  they  form  both  a source  of 
energy  and  a supply  for  irrigation  purposes.  As  an 
example,  the  river  Rimac,  which  is  born  in  the  ice-cap 
and  descends  the  western  slope  of  the  Cordillera,  flowing 
through  Lima  and  debouching  at  Callao,  has  a trajectory 
only  about  100  miles  long,  and  a fall  of  something  like 
14,000  feet,  from  its  source.  The  other  rivers  of  Peru 
which  flow  to  the  Pacific  have  more  or  less  similar  con- 
ditions as  regards  their  trajectory.  They  are  about 
forty-nine  in  number,  but  some  of  them  are  but  small 
streams  in  the  dry  season.  In  several  instances,  cities 
arc  lighted  electrically  from  hydro-electric  stations  on 
these  rivers,  as  Lima,  Arequipa,  Trujillo;  and  in  the 
former  an  extensive  electric  street-car  system  is  work- 
ing from  this  source  of  energy. 

A remarkable  feature  of  the  hydrography  of  the 
country,  and  of  which  I have  spoken  elsewhere,  is  that 
of  the  Andean  lakes.  These  are  generally  in  and  among 
the  tablelands — the  punas  or  altiplanicies , at  an  altitude 
above  the  sea-level  of  12,000  feet  to  15,000  feet,  or  more. 
I have  described  some  of  these  elsewhere.  They  are  fed 


163 


The  High  Andean  Plateaux 

by  the  heavy  rainfall  of  those  regions,  and  in  some  cases 
by  the  thawing  of  the  lower  edge  of  the  ice-cap.  Among 
the  most  notable  of  these  is  the  famous  lake  Titicaca, 
12,370  feet  altitude,  165  miles  long,  and  an  average  of 
63  broad.  This  great  inland  sea,  in  conjunction  with 
Lake  Poopo  and  the  Desaguadero  river,  in  Bolivia,  forms 
its  own  hydrographic  system,  and  has  no  outlet.  Lake 
Arapa  discharges  into  it,  and  there  are  other  smaller 
sheets  of  water  forming  part  of  the  same  system,  and 
which  I have  spoken  of  elsewhere.  Evaporation  is  the 
only  agency  of  exhaustion  of  this  system. 

Next,  may  be  considered  the  series  of  Andean  lakes 
which  are  the  sources  of  rivers,  as  Conococha,  from  which 
rises  the  river  Santa  or  Huaraz,  flowing  to  the  Pacific  ; 
Lauricocha,  source  of  the  Maranon  (see  note  in  former 
chapter);  Chinchai-cocha,  or  Junin,  9 leagues  long  and 
2 wide,  source  of  the  Mantaro  river ; Orcococha  and 
Choclococha,  source  of  the  Pampas  river ; Langui  of  the 
Urubamba  ; Vilafro  of  the  Apurimac ; Lake  Parincochas, 
etc. — most  of  which  I have  visited.  The  word  Cocha  is 
Quechua  for  Lake. 

Besides  these  there  are  innumerable  smaller  lakes 
upon  these  high  punas , wherever  the  traveller  may 
journey,  and  which  form  natural  reservoirs,  often  without 
any  outlet.  Bordering  upon  them  are  extensive  swamps 
and  bogs,  where,  without  a guide,  disaster  would  be 
encountered.  The  existence  of  these  great  areas  of 
swamp  and  lack  of  natural  drainage  seems  to  be  due 
to  impermeable  underlying  strata  of  quartzite,  or  other 
rock,  which  permits  no  percolation  of  the  waters  to 
lower  elevations,  from  these  numerous  basin  - shaped 
areas. 

Other  great  lakes  have  formerly  existed  in  some 
of  the  longitudinal  valleys,  which  have  broken  down 
their  enclosing  natural  dams,  and  so  drained  themselves. 
Among  these  are  those  which  existed  in  former  epochs, 
in  the  Jauja  and  Huancayo  valleys,  and  which  opened  a 
way  for  themselves  at  Izcuchaca,  and  broke  through  the 
eastern  Cordillera,  to  the  Amazon.  Similar  conditions 


164  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

attended  the  lake-basins  of  the  Huallaga  and  Marafton 
rivers. 

Whilst  the  Andes  are  generally  divided  into  two 
parallel  ranges,  termed  the  Eastern  and  Western 
Cordilleras,  respectively,  the  true  “ Cordillera,”  it  ever 
seems  to  me,  must  be  considered  that  whose  summit 
forms  the  actual  divortia  aquarum  of  the  system  and 
the  continent.  The  passage  over  these  summits  must 
be  made  ever  at  an  altitude  of  13,000  to  14,000  feet 
above  sea-level,  with  — as  far  as  Peru  is  concerned,  in 
her  1,500  miles  of  Cordillera  — only  one  exception. 
This  is  in  the  northern  part  of  the  country,  the 
Department  of  Piura,  and  embodies  several  remarkably 
low  gaps  in  the  Cordillera  of  the  Andes  varying  from 
6,000  to  7,000  feet  in  altitude,  above  sea-level.  The 
summit  or  pass  is  here  about  100  miles  from  the 
coast  of  the  Pacific ; and  in  my  preliminary  report, 
written  in  July  1906,  upon  the  project  for  a railway 
uniting  the  ocean  with  the  navigable  head-waters  of  the 
Amazon,  I have  said  : 

“ Leaving  the  Port  (Payta),  and  traversing  eastwardly 
the  flat  coast-zone,  the  line  will  reach  the  Andes,  and 
ascending  the  western  slope  will  cross  the  summit  at  an 
altitude  above  sea-level  of  about  6,600  feet,  by  means  of 
a pass  which  seems  almost  to  have  been  made  by  Nature, 
in  order  that  man  might  create  a way  of  travel  between 
the  world’s  greatest  ocean  and  vastest  river,  crossing  one 
of  the  highest  mountain  ranges  of  the  globe ; for,  in  all 
the  1,500  miles  of  Peruvian  Cordillera  there  is  no  pass 
at  a less  altitude  than  13,500  feet.” 

This  fact  will  be  rendered  more  palpable  when  it  is 
recollected  that  the  two  existing  trans-Andean  railways 
cross  at  15,642  and  14,666  feet,  respectively. 

There  is  a small  village  church  at  Huarmaca — on  the 
summit  near  this  point — where  it  is  proposed  to  cross  to 
the  Marafton  exactly  on  the  line  of  the  divortia  aquarum  ; 
and  the  water  which  is  shed  from  the  falling  rain  on  the 
one  side  of  the  roof  goes  to  the  Pacific  Ocean,  whilst  that 
on  the  other  flows  to  the  Atlantic. 


Summit  of  the  Andes. 


164. 


165 


The  High  Andean  Plateaux 

As  affording  a general  idea  of  the  remarkable  altitudes 
at  which  people  live  in  the  Peruvian  cities  of  the  Andean 
region,  I will  give  some  figures  of  the  elevations  above 
sea-level  of  some  of  the  Capitals  of  the  Departments,  or 
States,  with  their  distances  from  Lima,  as  follows : 


Cities 

Cerro  de  Pasco 
Puno 

Huancavelica 
Cuzco 
Huaraz 
Ayacucho  . 
Cajamarca 
Abancay  . 
Arequipa  . 


Altitude 

Distance  from  Lima 

in  feet 

in  miles 

14,380 

174 

12,645 

825 

12,530 

219 

IL445 

567 

9,930 

192 

9,216 

315 

9,440 

474 

8,060 

47i 

7,850 

666 

The  climate  of  these  places  is  cold,  and  often  rainy, 
but  healthy  and  invigorating,  and  produces  a more 
energetic  people  than  that  of  the  coast  cities.  Some  of 
them  are  situated  in  mining  regions,  and  have  been 
described  elsewhere.  The  arriero , or  pack  - mule  train 
driver,  living  in  these  high  regions,  greatly  objects  to 
journey  to  the  coast ; and  the  serranos,  as  the  inhabitants 
are  termed,  generally  fall  a prey  to  light  fevers  or 
tercianas  when  they  make  these  journeys  to  Lima,  or 
other  coast  points. 

Conversely,  the  dweller  in  the  mild  and  changeless 
temperature  and  sunny  climate  of  the  coast  dislikes  to 
ascend  and  encounter  the — to  him — inclement  conditions 
of  the  uplands. 

These  coast  cities  form  a striking  contrast  in  their 
lower  elevation,  as  shown  below  by  the  respective  figures 
of  some  of  the  principal  ones. 


City 


Altitude  Distance  from  Lima 
in  feet  in  miles 


Callao 

Trujillo 

lea 

Chiclayo 
Piura  . 


Sea-level 

6 

370 

339 

L335 

174 

82 

456 

174 

612 

16C 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


Intermediary  between  the  two  foregoing  lists,  in  point 
of  altitude,  and  generally  enjoying  a delightful  climate 
which  in  some  cases  may  be  described,  without  too 
much  exaggeration,  as  “ perpetual  spring,”  are  such  cities 
and  towns  as  Moyobamba,  Chachapoyas,  Moquegua, 
Hunauco,  Yungay,  etc.  The  profiles  of  the  Andes, 
which  I give,  will  render  evident  the  striking  changes 
of  altitude  which  the  traveller  encounters  in  his  journeys, 
and  the  great  barrier  which  these  mountains  present  to 
communication  between  the  coast  - zone  and  the  region 
of  the  forests.  These  profiles  are  taken  at  considerable 
distances  apart,  aggregating  about  1,000  miles,  and  are 
about  normal  to  the  coast -line  and  main  axis  of  the 
Cordillera.  Beginning  towards  the  north,  we  have  a 
section  through  the  Andes  from  the  coast  between  Eten 
and  Payta,  passing  the  summit  at  Huarmaca  — which, 
as  has  been  explained,  is  the  lowest  point  in  the 
Peruvian  Andes — and  down  to  the  river  Marafton  at  the 
junction  with  the  Amazon,  whence  steam  navigation 
begins. 

The  second,  southwards,  is  through  Salavery,  Trujillo — 
the  summit — and  down  to  and  beyond  the  Marafton. 

Third:  through  Huaraz  and  the  valley  of  Huaylas  ; 
the  Marafton  and  Huallagas  rivers. 

Fourth : through  Callao,  Lima,  Oroya,  and  down  to 
the  Ucayali.  The  Central  Railway  runs  castwardly  as 
far  as  Oroya. 

Fifth  : through  Pisco,  Santa  Ynez,  Ayacucho,  and  the 
Apurimac. 

Sixth : through  Mollendo,  Arequipa,  Titicaca,  and  the 
Mon  tafia.  The  Southern  Railway  runs  as  far  eastwardly 
as  Titicaca. 

The  line  of  perpetual  snow  in  the  Andes,  or  the 
lower  edge  of  the  ice -cap,  appears  to  become  lower  as 
one  approaches  the  northern  part  of  the  chain.  It  would 
rather  have  been  supposed  that  the  reverse  would  be  the 
case,  as  in  going  northward  the  equator  is,  of  course,  being 


7*7-0/ t/es  of/frc  Tfrj'azriajz  j*7??oZes 


ffac/fic  hfo/erjAe* j3 a.  ~~  • /C,rn^3on-/J/-/a7rAjc  yyb,/gi\rhfi4C 

/£. //varTna  rcac i~ 


EAST. 


C oa.  iA-  Af ej/e rt  J/er~i’a,  Afg^/o/r 


7T7an/anst,  /Tey/* r*  ro  *~t  L/moti 


So 


/OO  m//ej> 

/V°  /. 


/SO 


’ CO  rrt//4s 


fifc/f/c  ft4t/ar<jAg/e  . 0A 
/fpoo  /A 


■ 'e?/T/a.j»/7  ■‘fAtisr/T'c  hSi/SrsAagi . 


-&rv~rr 


Aa.cz /-/o  TYa/At 'sAejC  -jja  - ort  - AfA/a/rAtc  hyctSgr'sA ft*  _ . . 


/V?  3. 


J?/s/Z/)ces  /*?  /n//es 

A?//76cl*s  n/ fr*7  aA*tre  J**-/£iSt/ 

D.A  J/Jtt///*&  £>/rorfo  /9gC«k?'v/rr 

C.H^ 


'.  166  (a). 


f’roft/es  of /fc  j^ey’UTsian'  yjzic/es 


ry*/er-jAr ** 
2oooo  ft- 


/^r**OLJ*n  - /r/7*nS7c  4VZ*  /*  i~  J <4  4C 


fiZCtf/c 

2o,ooo/e | 

/£  ooo.  v 


racf.J7*' 

OcOaro. 


£?p.  ^/-/anf/c 


/6~0 


2,00  7Tf*/e% 


/Y?4> 


J?jsJa.7i  ces  /t>  7n//es 

////t/uc/es  47t fee/-  above  SCe*  /eve/ 

& A.  Si*/T7*f/Ci  ///rof/fa.  AftUivt/m 


Cfifr 


166  (b). 


The  High  Andean  Plateaux  167 

approached.  This,  at  any  rate,  seems  to  be  shown  by  the 
altitudes  of  points  which  I have  visited,  as  follows  : 


Altitude  of  snow-line 
Place  in  feet 

Approximate 
S.  Latitude 

Colluahuasi 1 (no  snow-line) 

. 17,000 

20°00' 

Misti  „ „ 

19,000 

l6°lo 

Aricoma  . 

, 16,500 

i4°3°' 

Santa  Ynez  . 

. 17,500 

1 3°20' 

Huarapasca  . 

• 14,775 

io°oo 

Yanashallas 

. 14,650 

9°4° 

Mataraju  (glacier) 

. 13,300 

9°25 

Huascaran 

. 14,400 

9°°5 

Whether  the  number  of  points  observed  is  really 
sufficient  to  form  a general  result,  or  whether  the  re- 
spective heights  are  only  due  to  some  local  influence,  I 
am  not  prepared  to  decide.  In  this  connection  it  is  to 
be  recollected  that  the  height  of  the  perpetual  snow-line 
varies  much,  due  to  local  conditions.  For  example,  the 
volcano  Misti,  near  Arequipa — 19,000  feet — has  no  perma- 
nent ice-cap  ; whilst  Sara-Sara,  Solimana,  and  Coropuna, 
not  very  greatly  to  the  north  of  Arequipa,  have  a very 
low  snow-line.  These  are,  however,  all  isolated  peaks. 

It  seems  to  be  a matter  of  general  opinion  in  these 
regions,  among  the  inhabitants  of  the  puna  towns,  that 
the  snow-cap  has  been  retiring  of  recent  decades ; and 
this  really  seems  to  be  borne  out  by  the  appearance 
of  the  moraines  and  debris  at  their  lower  edges.  The 
ice-cap  seems  to  have  extended  further  down  the  slopes 
at  no  very  distant  period.  Whether  this  is  only  part  of  a 
recurring  phase  of  retirement,  or  whether  of  a permanent 
diminishing,  it  would,  of  course,  be  impossible  to  say 
without  observations  extending  over  the  corresponding 
periods.  But  the  latter  seems  the  more  probable. 

One  of  the  most  remarkable  characteristics  of  these 
high  places  in  the  Andes  is  the  soroche',  the  uncomfort- 
able and  even  dangerous  effect  of  lack  of  oxygen  and 
rarefaction  of  the  air,  due  to  altitude.  In  many  places 
it  is  impossible  to  advance,  when  on  foot,  at  more  than 
the  slowest  walking  pace,  and  even  then  the  heart  beats 

1 Province  of  Tarapaca,  Chile, 


168 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


violently  and  the  head  swims.  The  most  common 
symptoms  are  severe  headache,  accompanied  by  vomit- 
ing, although  these  are  not  necessarily  always  present. 

I shall  never  forget  some  of  my  own  experiences  in 
this  respect.  On  one  occasion  I was  examining  some 
mines  at  an  altitude  of  17,000  feet,  when  a strong  wind 
blew  my  hat  off.  Seeing  that  it  was  rolling  away  towards 
a precipice,  and  would  be  lost,  I foolishly  ran  after  it.  I 
had  run  about  fifty  yards,  when  I felt  a sudden  suspen- 
sion of  all  my  powers : a terrible  faintness  at  the  heart 
and  weakness  of  the  limbs.  I recollect  murmuring  to 
myself:  “This  is  death;  I am  really  dying!”  and  then 
the  ground  rose  up  and  struck  me — I mean  that  was  the 
impression  created — not  one  of  falling — although  I scarcely 
felt  the  blow  before  utterly  losing  consciousness.  When  I 
came  to,  my  friends  had  propped  me  up  and  were  forcing 
some  brandy  between  my  teeth.  “You  fell  like  a man 
shot,”  they  said,  “throwing  your  arms  up  in  the  air  and 
falling  inert ; dead  in  the  act.” 

On  another  occasion  I arrived  late  at  night  on  horse- 
back at  a certain  place,  of  about  similar  altitude.  A bitter 
and  searching  wind  swept  across  the  mountains,  and 
probably  helped  to  induce  the  soroche  which  came  on, 
striking  upon  the  back  of  my  head.  This  time  it  took 
the  form  of  excruciating  headache,  which,  after  lasting 
several  hours,  was  only  eased  by  the  severe  vomiting 
which  followed.  The  effect  was  very  weakening,  and 
required  a couple  of  days  in  bed  to  overcome  it 

Fortunately,  I found  I could  always  avoid  the  soroche 
by  careful  methods,  and  in  any  case  I became  accustomed 
to  the  altitude  and  rarefaction  after  a few  days,  when  I 
could  ascend  on  foot  the  highest  and  most  difficult  places 
without  inconvenience.  Not  so  with  many  other  persons. 

I have  seen  men  brought  down  to  lower  altitudes,  who 
had  gone  up  a few  days  previously,  on  stretchers,  crying 
that  they  were  dying,  and  suffering  exceedingly. 

It  is  nearly  always  the  case  with  persons  who  travel 
on  the  Oroya  railway  from  Lima,  that  they  suffer  from 
soroche — headache  and  vomiting — when  the  train  nears  the 


The  High  Plateaux:  Retiring  Snow-cap. 


169 


The  High  Andean  Plateaux 

summit.  This  is,  however,  rather  a severe  test,  for  the 
passengers  are  taken  from  sea-level  to  an  altitude  of  15,642 
feet  in  a few  hours  — the  only  instance  in  the  world,  I 
believe,  where  such  is  possible.  I have  seen  a car  full  of 
passengers,  unwell,  and  reminding  me  of  a deck-load  of 
sea-sick  people.  In  some  cases  blood  issues  from  the  nose 
and  ears. 

The  remedies  which  I have  found  most  efficacious 
against  soroche  are,  first,  of  course,  to  go  about  as  gently 
and  collectedly  as  possible,  and  to  keep  the  head  and  neck 
thoroughly  protected  from  the  wind.  For  this  purpose 
I have  found  the  long  fur  boas,  made  of  vicuna  fur,  and 
which  are  obtainable  in  some  places,  most  useful  and 
comforting.  These  can  be  wound  twice  round  the  neck. 
Also,  the  knitted  woollen  masks  or  head-coverings  which 
the  Indians  of  the  highlands  make  and  use,  are  excellent. 
They  cover  the  whole  of  the  head,  leaving  the  eyes,  nose 
and  mouth  free. 

It  is  generally  advised  that  alcohol  be  avoided  and 
that  little  food  be  consumed,  although  the  very  opposite 
advice  is  also  given  by  some.  Personally,  I find  it  better 
to  abstain  both  from  alcohol  and  tobacco,  and  consider 
that  alcohol  is  harmful  under  such  circumstances.  Other 
internal  remedies  seem  to  be  the  brown  sugar  I have 
spoken  of  elsewhere,  and  ajos — a species  of  shalot — is 
recommended,  both  to  be  eaten  and  rubbed  upon  the 
temples.  But,  like  sea  - sickness  and  kindred  maladies, 
there  is  probably  no  specific  remedy,  and  all  depends  upon 
the  individual  and  the  circumstances  of  the  moment.  The 
actual  effect,  it  appears  to  me,  is  largely  due  to  diminished 
pressure  upon  the  brain,  for  at  these  heights  there  is,  of 
course,  a pressure  due  to  only  half  an  atmosphere,  more 
or  less,  and  this  is  rendered  more  harmful  by  the  cold 
— which  latter,  at  least,  can  be  guarded  against.  I have 
heard  of  cases  where  the  brain  has  been  so  affected  that  the 
sufferer  had  desired  to  commit  suicide.  I have  not  exactly 
experienced  such  a desire,  I must  admit,  but  it  has  occurred 
suddenly  to  me,  sometimes,  on  riding  past  some  one  of 
these  peaceful  blue  lakes  at  these  high  elevations,  that 


170 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


life  was  hard  and  weary,  and  that  the  translucent  waters 
looked  exceedingly  peaceful ! Another  noticeable  effect 
of  these  high  altitudes  is  the  increased  desire  for  sexual 
intercourse ; and  this  is  even  found  to  be  an  antidote,  in 
some  cases,  for  soroche . 

The  Cholo  Indians,  bom  at  these  altitudes,  are  free 
from  the  effects  of  the  thin  air.  It  is  remarkable  how  they 
run  up  the  hills  like  goats,  and  how  the  miners  work 
constantly  at  their  hard  labour  of  drilling,  at  these  eleva- 
tions. Imported  labour  cannot  compete  with  them  for  this 
reason,  and  the  European  can  only  act  as  superintendent, 
and  the  Chinaman  must  remain  nearer  the  coast  regions. 
Nature  has  preserved  these  high  regions,  in  this  respect, 
for  the  true  sons  of  the  soil ; those  who,  at  least,  have  paid 
her  the  homage  of  being  born  there. 

What  are  these  vast  plateaux  for  ? What  is  their  signi- 
ficance in  the  cosmos?  Comparatively  little  vegetation 
flourishes  there,  and  man  can  scarcely  inhabit  them.  Of 
course,  they  are  the  primary  cause  of  secondary  useful 
conditions ; as,  for  example,  great  watersheds,  great  natural 
manufactures  and  storers  of  water,  which  is  enjoyed  by 
the  lower  regions,  and  this  alone  warrants  their  existence. 
For  man  can  only  ask  the  “ use  ” of  anything  as  regards 
its  relations  with  himself,  if  I may  be  pardoned  such  a 
platitude.  But,  possibly,  we  may  look  further  than  hydro- 
graphic  or  climatic  uses,  valuable  though  they  are.  It 
must  surely  be  that  the  future  of  science  will  reveal  to  us 
new  and  strange  purposes  of  uses  for  high  altitudes.  It 
may  be  that  great  available  differences  of  elevation  shall 
afford  some  source  of  energy,  some  difference  of  potential, 
or  other  condition,  unsuspected  at  present.  It  may  be 
that  the  being  able  to  reach  up  so  far  into  the  unexplored 
regions  of  the  air  shall  afford  us  some  supply  of  hitherto 
unknown  waves,  vibrations,  light,  dynamic  energy,  atmos- 
pheric products,  which  our  evolving  mechanical  skill,  and 
the  researches  of  our  tireless  physicists,  shall  harness  for 
man’s  uses.  In  my  mind,  there  is  no  doubt  of  this. 
Time  will  show. 


City  or  Hiabax  ani>  tm  Humcaban  Tbak 


CHAPTER  XVI 


ASCENTS  OF  SNOW-CAPPED  SUMMITS  AND  PEAKS1 

DURING  my  stay  in  Huaraz,  I was  asked  by  the 
authorities  of  the  place  to  explore  a pass  upon  the 
Cordillera  Blanca , or  eastern  range  of  the  Andes,  which, 
as  elsewhere  described,  bounds  the  valley  of  Huaylas  on 
the  east. 

The  object  of  this  exploration  was  to  determine  the 
practicability  of  making  a mule  road  from  Huaraz  to  the 
towns  on  the  other  side  of  the  Cordillera,  eastward,  such  as 
Huantar  and  Huari,  as  also  to  open  up  a nearer  route  to 
the  tropical  Montafia,  for  this  proposed  road  would  shorten 
the  distance  to  the  latter  place  by  several  days’  journey 
from  Huaraz,  and  its  construction  was  of  decided  im- 
portance to  those  communities. 

No  white  man  had  ever  crossed  this  portachuelo , as  the 
snowy  passes  of  the  Peruvian  Andes  are  termed,  notwith- 
standing that  various  persons  had  set  out  from  Huaraz  or 
Huari  at  different  times  to  undertake  it ; and  indeed  it  had 
only  been  traversed  by  two  or  three  Cholo  Indians,  who, 
under  the  stimulus  of  reward,  had  ventured  across  the  ice- 
cap which  covered  it.  The  authorities  were  now  desirous 
of  taking  advantage  of  the  fact  of  an  English  engineer 
being  among  them,  as  they  informed  me,  in  order  to  have 
the  pass  examined,  and  I accepted  the  commission  ; not  so 
much  in  a professional  sense,  but  in  a spirit  of  exploration, 
and  a desire  to  do  something  which  might  benefit  the 
community,  whose  hospitality  I had  enjoyed  a good  deal. 
However,  the  municipality  afterwards  insisted  on  present- 
ing a fee. 

Accompanied  by  four  young  Peruvians  of  Huaraz,  an 
1 Read  before  the  Royal  Geographical  Society. 

171 


172 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


Indian  guide,  and  eight  Cholos,  who  carried  the  baggage 
and  instruments,  I set  out  on  3rd  October  (1903),  and 
we  ascended  the  canyon  of  Quillcay-huanca,  down  which 
flows  the  small  river  Quillcay,  and  formed  camp  at  the 
foot  of  the  glacier  which  gives  birth  to  that  river.  The 
elevation  of  this  point  is  13,300  feet,  the  western  edge  of 
the  perpetual  snow-line. 

Sleep  was  continually  disturbed  by  the  thundering  of 
the  avalanches,  and  towards  morning  a heavy  rainfall 
began,  succeeded  later  by  snow.  The  temperature,  how- 
ever, was  quite  mild,  and  at  nine  o’clock  the  party, 
having  ascended  the  rocky  wall  on  the  right-hand  side 
of  the  canyon,  previously  crossing  the  lateral  moraines 
and  dtbris  deposited  by  the  glacier,  entered  upon  the 
snow-cap. 

Here  all  secured  themselves  to  the  rope  which  had 
been  brought  for  the  purpose,  for  numerous  crevasses  in 
the  ice-cap  were  encountered,  in  many  cases  invisible  from 
the  light  covering  of  freshly-fallen  snow  which  concealed 
them.  The  ascent  was  gradual,  rising  gently  towards  the 
summit ; but  before  this  was  gained  the  snow  was  falling 
thickly,  and  in  a few  minutes  entirely  obscured  the  view. 
In  the  face  of  this  the  party  was  brought  to  a standstill, 
for,  in  the  obscurity,  a false  step  might  have  precipitated 
one  or  all  into  a crevasse. 

After  the  lapse  of  an  hour,  the  storm  showing  little 
signs  of  abating,  and  the  Cholos  complaining  that  their 
feet  were  freezing  — for  they  wore  neither  boots  nor 
sandals,  but  marched  with  bare  feet — it  was  decided  to 
make  a move,  cautiously.  But  the  guide,  an  Indian  who 
had  only  once  made  the  passage,  and  in  fairer  weather, 
had  now  become  confused,  and,  after  vacillating  for  some 
minutes,  desired  to  set  out  in  a direction  which  was  very 
nearly  that  by  which  the  party  had  arrived,  or  the  reverse 
of  which  it  was  necessary  to  follow,  trying  to  influence 
the  Cholos  to  follow  this  course. 

But  I had  previously  taken  an  approximate  bearing, 
and  in  view  of  this  was  obliged  to  take  a firm  stand, 
and  to  threaten  with  dire  penalties  any  further  insistence  : 


Glacier  at  head  of  Quilcay  Valley,  near  Huaraz. 


Ascents  of  Snow-capped  Summits  173 

and  ostentatiously  display  the  Colt’s  revolver  which  I 
carried  ; for  the  route  the  guide  desired  to  take  led  to 
a sheer  descent  of  some  hundreds  of  metres.  At  this 
moment  the  sky  cleared  slightly,  and  a landmark — a high 
peak — was  recognised,  when  the  course  was  followed  in 
the  direction  indicated  by  my  compass.  The  track  behind 
was  spotted  with  blood,  which  came  from  the  bare  feet 
of  the  Indians — who,  however,  accustomed  to  hardships, 
scarcely  complained,  but  staggered  on  under  their  burdens, 
sustaining  their  energies  with  the  coca  leaves  which  they 
carry  with  them,  and  continually  masticate. 

In  a short  space  the  summit  was  reached,  and  a view 
obtained  of  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Cordillera.  Here  I 
fired  three  shots : the  signal  agreed  upon  with  the  party 
who  should  have  ascended  from  that  side  to  meet  us. 

All  waited,  and  scanned  the  white  landscape  eagerly, 
but  in  vain  ; there  was  no  answering  shot  or  shout.  I 
was  not  altogether  unprepared  for  this,  for  a good  many 
years’  experience  in  Spanish  America  shows  that  one 
of  the  qualities  of  the  Spanish  American  is  “ failure  to 
make  connections,”  and  to  depend  upon  the  efforts  of  the 
natives  is  often  to  lean  upon  a broken  reed.  This,  of 
course,  apart  from  the  many  good  and  useful  qualities 
which  they  possess. 

In  front  of  us  stretched  downward  long  slopes  and 
sheer  descents,  the  former  crossed  by  yawning  crevasses 
of  unknown  depth,  among  which  there  appeared  to  be  no 
passage.  Beneath  our  feet  the  snow,  heavily  fallen  during 
the  night  upon  that  side  of  the  mountains,  lay  to  such 
a depth  that  at  every  step  we  were  buried  to  the  waist ; 
and  fear,  amounting  almost  to  panic,  lest  a crevasse  filled 
with  the  soft  material  should  swallow  them  up,  possessed 
itself  of  some  members  of  the  party.  Above  our  heads 
the  sun,  which  for  a few  brief  moments  had  appeared, 
again  became  obscured  by  the  falling  snow,  which 
threatened  to  again  blot  out  the  landscape  and  leave 
us  halting  upon  that  debatable  ground.  The  guide,  more- 
over, had  lost  confidence  in  himself,  and  feared  to  take 
a single  step  in  advance. 


174 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


“ Vamos  a regresar  ” (“  Let  us  go  back  ”),  was  the  cry 
of  my  companions  ; and  even  the  stolid  Cholos  echoed 
the  suggestion  among  themselves — not  in  Spanish,  but 
in  their  native  Quechua.  To  this,  however,  1 opposed  a 
firm  negative.  It  was  not  that  professional  pride  was 
aroused,  nor  that  the  character  of  intrepidity  of  the 
whole  British  nation,  as  represented  by  my  unworthy 
self,  was  at  stake ; nor  that  bets  had  been  freely  placed 
by  friends  in  Huaraz  that  the  ingUs  would  accomplish 
the  passage ; but  simply  a desire  to  fulfil  what  had  been 
begun,  believing  it  perfectly  feasible  with  calmness  and 
caution. 

Moreover,  I thought  I discovered  a possible  path 
among  the  crevasses,  and  across  a natural  bridge  of  ice 
and  snow  which  spanned  an  abyss.  So,  seeing  that  the 
guide  would  not  advance,  and  that  further  hesitation 
would  lead,  perhaps,  to  mutiny,  I proposed  that  my 
companions  should  hold  firm  to  one  end  of  the  rope, 
whilst  I alone,  tied  to  the  other  end,  should  explore  the 
way  in  advance,  in  short  stretches. 

To  this,  however,  they  demurred,  fearing  for  my  safety  ; 
and  at  last,  impatient  of  the  delay,  and  seeing  that  every 
minute  added  to  the  obscurity  due  to  the  thickly-fallen 
snow,  I took  the  guide’s  place,  and,  animating  the  others, 
we  slowly  commenced  the  descent,  sinking  waist-deep  at 
every  step  in  the  snow. 

After  advancing  some  short  distance,  the  guide, 
beginning  to  recognise  the  ground,  again  took  the  lead, 
and,  fastened  to  a rope  with  one  of  my  companions, 
explored  the  way  in  advance. 

Slow,  laborious,  and  exceedingly  fatiguing  was  the 
descent.  The  utmost  caution  was  necessary  in  order  to 
avoid  the  crevasses,  which  in  many  cases  were  covered 
with  a light  cap  of  snow,  incapable  of  sustaining  the 
weight  of  a man.  In  spite  of  all  our  caution  some  narrow 
escapes  were  experienced,  for  one  of  the  young  Peruvians 
fell  suddenly  into  a crevasse.  Fortunately,  the  rope  in 
a measure  sustained  him,  as  well  as  the  support  he  was 
able  to  obtain  with  his  elbows  in  the  walls  of  the  opening, 


175 


Ascents  of  Snow-capped  Summits 

for,  although  deep,  the  crevasses  were  generally  of  small 
width ; and  he  was  promptly  released  from  the  dangerous 
situation. 

Shortly  afterwards,  in  descending  a slope,  I felt  that 
the  ground  beneath  my  feet  was  giving  way.  It  was 
another  crevasse,  the  “ bridge  ” over  which  had  broken 
through.  I obtained  a momentary  glimpse  of  blue  walls 
below,  which  extended  downwards  until  lost  in  obscurity  ; 
but  with  the  quickness  of  thought  I threw  myself  back- 
wards at  full  length  upon  the  snow,  and  slowly  retreated, 
making  signs  to  those  who  followed  me  to  do  likewise. 
The  remnants  of  the  “ bridge  ” slowly  slid  into  the  abyss, 
and  we  sought  another  way  whereby  to  avoid  the  spot. 

So  fatiguing  was  the  advance,  due  to  the  depth  of 
soft  snow,  that  it  was  necessary  to  pause  at  every  few 
steps,  and  it  seemed  as  if  night  would  overtake  us  in 
that  perilous  spot.  It  was  then  that  I remembered  my 
experiences  in  “ tobogganing,”  both  in  England  and  in 
Canada ; and,  taking  the  large,  stiff  underpart  of  leather, 
which  Peruvian  saddles  have,  from  the  Cholo  who  carried 
it,  I rolled  up  the  front  edge  to  form  a sort  of  sledge, 
and,  sitting  on  it,  tobogganed  down  the  slope  with  com- 
parative ease.  The  Cholos  and  my  companions  followed 
suit  with  any  other  articles,  including  their  blankets, 
which  lent  themselves  to  the  purpose,  and  in  that  manner 
we  descended  for  some  distance. 

The  afternoon  sun  again  appeared,  and  calling  a halt, 
I had  some  photographs  taken  — for  we  carried  two 
cameras — both  of  the  people  and  of  the  snow-covered 
slopes.  It  was  just  before  this  that  the  blue  spectacles 
I wore  — for  these  are  necessary  to  avoid  snow  - blind- 
ness— had  become  broken,  and  had  to  be  discarded  ; and, 
although  I felt  no  inconvenience  during  the  journey  from 
the  reflection  from  the  snow,  nevertheless  on  the  follow- 
ing day  I was  almost  blind  from  the  consequent  swelling 
and  inflammation  of  the  eyes.  As  for  the  guide,  who 
had  neglected  to  provide  himself  with  spectacles — he 
was  almost  totally  blind  for  several  days  afterwards. 

Wet,  cold,  and  hungry,  our  privations  were  further 


176 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


added  to  by  the  carelessness  of  one  of  the  Cholos,  who 
carried  the  basket  of  provisions  and  the  bundle  of  cooking 
utensils ; for,  on  descending  a slope,  I was  horrified  at 
seeing  these  articles  roll  past  me ! The  Cholo  behind 
had  loosened  his  hold  of  them,  and  away  they  went.  I 
made  a wild  grab  at  the  tea-kettle  as  it  passed,  but 
missed  it,  and,  together  with  the  provisions,  it  disappeared 
into  a crevasse. 

Fortunately,  none  of  the  party  suffered  from  the 
dreaded  soroche , or  mountain  fever,  which  generally 
attacks  persons  accustomed  to  lower  altitudes.  This, 
as  is  well  known,  takes  the  form  of  violent  headaches 
accompanied  by  vomiting;  and  I,  having  experienced 
a severe  attack  in  the  Andes  at  less  altitude,  had  taken 
some  precautions  against  it,  and  which  proved  efficacious. 
Included  in  these  was  the  eating,  from  time  to  time, 
some  of  the  raw,  brown  sugar  which  the  Cholos  carried 
in  cakes,  and  pressed  upon  me. 

After  some  six  or  more  hours  of  floundering, 
tobogganing,  and  struggling,  the  party  reached  the 
eastern  edge  of  the  perpetual  snow  - line,  and  regained 
again  the  solid  rock.  From  this  point  the  descent  was 
easier,  and  at  7 P.M.  we  arrived  in  the  valley  below, 
and  which,  with  the  river  which  flows  down  it,  bears 
the  name  of  Pamparajo . 

Here  the  night  was  passed  in  one  of  a series  of 
caves  which  exist  there,  and  such  refreshment  was 
partaken  of  as  could  be  procured.  I found  the  infusion 
of  the  leaves  of  the  coca,  taken  as  tea,  agreeable 
and  sustaining ; and  a native  remedy,  consisting  of  a 
starchy,  tuberous  root,  applied  to  the  eyes,  speedily 
cured  the  effects  of  snow-blindness. 

The  principal  point  of  geographical  interest  of  the 
region,  apart  from  the  route,  as  a means  of  communica- 
tion, as  before  described,  is  that  the  summit  passed  is 
the  divortia  aqua  rum  of  the  Continent  The  waters  of 
the  river  Quillcay,  where  the  ascent  was  made,  flow  to 
the  Pacific  Ocean  ; those  of  the  Pamparajo , where  the 
descent  was  accomplished,  flow  to  the  Atlantic  The 


Ascents  of  Snow-capped  Summits  177 

former  by  the  river  Santa,  which  flows  along  the  valley 
of  Huaylas  and  debouches  into  the  Pacific  at  the  port 
of  Chimbote,  a trajectory  of  only  some  50  leagues; 
whilst . ? the  latter,  the  Pamparajo,  via  the  Maranon,  flows 
through  that  vast  and  comparatively  little-known  territory 
of  the  interior  of  Peru — the  Montana — and  through  the 
Amazon  and  Brazil,  to  where  the  latter  mighty  river 
empties  into  the  Atlantic. 

As  stated,  the  greatest  altitude  gained  was  approxi- 
mately 16,100  feet,  or  considerably  more  than  that  of 
the  summit  of  Mont  Blanc.  The  extension  of  the  ice- 
cap was  somewhat  more  than  a league  in  width.  The 
rock-formation  of  the  lower  slopes  of  the  route  passed 
over  is  of  a hard  porphyry  capped  higher  up,  and  probably 
beneath  the  snow,  with  a slate,  fast  disintegrating  under 
the  action  of  the  elements. 

I have  spoken  of  the  infusion  of  the  coca  leaf,  as 
having  been  beneficial  in  warding  off  the  effects  of 
cold  and  fatigue ; and  whilst  it  is  a fact  that  cocaine  is 
an  injurious  drug  when  taken  in  excess,  nevertheless, 
like  some  others,  it  is  stomachic,  and  useful  in  certain 
circumstances,  such  as  described,  and  its  use  might 
reasonably  be  extended. 

The  dried  coca  leaves  are  the  Indians’  best  friend. 
Provided  with  a pouch  full,  and  the  little  gourd  of 
lime  which  he  carries,  the  Cholo  can  abstain  from 
food  for  days  together,  when  on  a march.  A certain 
stimulant,  or  reaction,  takes  place  in  the  stomach  after 
masticating  the  leaves  and  lime,  but  its  too  constant 
use  has  a deadening  or  stupefying  effect  on  the  Cholo, 
undoubtedly  because  he  takes  it  to  excess.  The  dried 
coca  leaves  are  one  of  the  principal  articles  of  commerce 
among  these  people,  and  at  times  even  takes  the  place 
of  current  coin. 

Somewhat  to  the  north  of  the  snowy  pass  which  I 
traversed  is  the  peak  of  Huascaran,  of  which  I attempted 
an  ascent,  as  described  below. 

There  are  many  high  peaks  in  the  Peruvian  Andes, 
which  have  never  been  ascended ; many  whose  height 

M 


178  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

is  not  known ; and  others  whose  names  are  even 
unrecorded. 

The  peak  of  Aconcagua  in  Chile  is  probably  the 
highest  point  in  the  Andes,  as,  indeed,  in  the  whole  of 
the  Americas,  North,  Central,  or  South.  Its  height  is 
23,080  feet ; but  the  Sorata,  near  Lake  Titicaca,  upon  the 
Bolivian  side,  is  by  some  authorities  stated  to  be  23,600 
feet  high,  and  in  this  case  would  be  the  foremost.  Other 
writers,  however,  give  it  as  slightly  over  23,000  feet. 

Next  in  order  comes  the  Huascaran,1  given  by 
triangulation  as  22,180  feet  — probably  the  third  or 
fourth  highest  peak  in  the  New  World,  and  whose 
ascent  I attempted  to  make,  gaining  a point  which 
no  human  foot  has  ever  yet  reached.  This  peak  is  in 
the  Eastern  Cordillera,  or  “Cordillera  Blanca,”  of  the 
Peruvian  Andes,  in  the  Department  of  Ancachs ; and 
in  fine  weather,  at  a sufficient  distance  from  the  coast, 
its  summit  can  be  seen  from  the  Pacific  Ocean. 

My  ascent  was  made  in  May  1904,  and  the  account 
was  read  before  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  by  the 
then  President,  Sir  Clements  Markham,  on  my  behalf.  I 
do  not  think  this  peak  is  mentioned  in  any  existing  work 
on  geography,  and  indeed  it  is  but  little  known. 

This  splendid  granite  uplift,  with  its  gleaming  mantle 
of  perpetual  snow,  always  fired  my  imagination  as  I 
beheld  it  from  Huaraz,  during  several  months’  stay  there. 
Seen  from  that  city,  it  reflects  the  colours  of  the  morning 
and  evening  sun  with  indescribable  beauty,  and  towers 
upwards  from  among  its  sister  members  of  the  chain 
towards  the  blue  heavens  in  impenetrable  majesty,  silent, 
solitary,  eternal.  Impenetrable,  because  no  human  foot 
has,  so  far,  ever  pressed  its  summit.  Raimondi  attempted 
it,  but  failed,  and  only  established  its  height  by  triangula- 
tion— 6,721  metres  above  sea-level.  I had  often  desired 
to  make  the  ascent,  in  spite  of  the  reiterated  assertion 
of  the  inhabitants  of  the  valley  that  it  was  absolutely 
impossible. 

But  I have  long  since  found  out  that  the  “absolutely 
1 Also  Coropona,  22,900  feet. 


Valley  of  Hdaylas:  Town  of  Yuxgay,  and  the  Huascaran  Peak. 


Ascents  of  Snow-capped  Summits  179 

impossible”  — especially  in  Spanish  America  — is  only 
another  term  for  the  absolutely  untried,  and  shortly  the 
opportunity  presented  itself.  Some  Peruvian  friends  of 
Yungay,  a pretty  and  industrious  little  town  in  the  valley 
of  Huaylas,  not  far  from  the  peak,  took  me  to  examine 
some  gold  mines,  which  proved  to  be  upon  the  very  base  of 
the  mountain  ; and  I resolved,  at  least,  to  make  a recon- 
naissance of  the  possibility  of  ascending. 

I sent  back,  therefore,  to  Yungay  for  blankets,  hatchets, 
provisions,  blue  spectacles,  rope,  etc.  Guides  there  were 
none,  as  no  one  had  ever  ascended  much  beyond  the 
snow-line. 

On  the  following  day,  5th  May,  1904,  at  6 A.M.,  I began 
the  ascent,  accompanied  by  a Peruvian  friend  of  Yungay, 
an  Italian  from  the  mines,  and  five  Cholos.  The  sky  was 
clear.  The  way  at  first  lay  up  easy  slopes  and  ravines, 
and  through  thickets  of  flowering  shrubs  and  of  light 
timber  — quenua  and  quishua ; often  with  a carpeting  of 
a hard-wooded,  blue  lupinus.  At  11,500  feet  altitude  the 
Italian  became  fatigued,  and  returned  to  the  mines,  the 
rest  of  the  party  continuing  upwards.  The  slopes  of  the 
mountain,  below  the  snow-line,  were  now  very  steep,  and 
covered  with  great  blocks  of  granite,  which  made  walking 
very  fatiguing.  Besides,  the  rarefaction  of  the  air  made 
breathing  difficult,  and  my  companion,  the  Peruvian,  fell 
behind  somewhat,  but  nevertheless  continued  manfully 
upwards.  We  were  obliged  to  stop  every  twenty  or  thirty 
steps  to  recover  breath,  and  the  distance  which  separated 
us  from  the  base  of  the  ice-cap,  which  we  beheld  above  us, 
diminished  by  very  slow  degrees.  A damp  mist  now 
appeared  and  enveloped  us,  blotting  out  the  view. 

Fortunately,  this  mist  disappeared  shortly  with  the  heat 
of  the  sun,  and  at  1 1 A.M.  we  reached  the  snow-line,  at  an 
altitude  of  14,500  feet.  Here  we  called  a halt  for  breakfast, 
making  coffee  with  a fire  of  dried  grass  pulled  from 
between  the  rocks  just  below  the  snow-line.  I expected 
to  have  suffered  from  soroche , but  was  pleased  to  find 
myself  free  from  this  troublesome  effect  of  high  eleva- 
tion, and  attributed  it  to  having  lived  for  some  months  at 


180  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

the  altitude  of  Huaraz,  so  becoming  somewhat  accustomed 
to  the  thinner  atmosphere.  Also  the  chancaca , which  we 
carried  and  ate  occasionally,  seemed  to  stave  it  off.  This 
is  nothing  but  small  cakes  of  crude  brown  sugar,  which  is 
made  in  those  regions,  and  which  the  natives  know  from 
experience  to  be  beneficial.  I have  noted  the  effect  of  this 
in  other  similar  situations,  and  the  sugar,  undoubtedly,  has 
some  virtue  for  mountaineers. 

After  breakfasting  we  continued  upwards,  but  my 
companion  could  not  advance  over  the  snow ; his  feet 
slipped  back  at  every  step,  and  even  the  Cholos  walked 
with  difficulty.  The  snow  at  first  was  soft  below,  covered 
with  a thin,  hard  crust  sufficiently  strong  to  bear  the  weight 
of  a man,  advancing  with  care.  For  my  part,  I found  I 
could  ascend  with  considerable  ease,  so  that  I soon  left  the 
rest  of  the  party  behind,  and  found  myself  alone,  treading 
those  virgin  dazzling  slopes  where  human  foot  had  never 
trod  until  that  moment. 

The  Peruvian  remained  below  with  one  of  the  Cholos, 
and  I continued  upward  with  the  other  four.  We  passed 
various  grietas , or  crevasses,  and  arrived  at  a small 
saddle-back  from  which  an  outcrop  of  rocks  protruded 
through  the  ice-cap.  At  this  place  one  of  the  Cholos 
broke  through  the  snow-crust  and  became  buried  to  the 
arm-pits ; and,  although  there  was  little  danger,  the 
occurrence  inspired  such  fear  in  the  timid  souls  of  the 
others  that  they  declined  to  go  on.  The  aspect  of  the 
glaciers  beyond  was,  it  is  true,  awe-inspiring.  Frightful 
precipices  opened  to  the  view,  showing  where  avalanches 
had  fallen  ; and  even  as  I watched  an  avalanche  fell— a 
wave  of  snow  whose  resounding  roar  wound  grimly  among 
those  high  terraces  and  far  facades,  and  possibly  caused 
the  people  in  the  valley  towns  below  to  look  upward. 

My  first  intention  had  been  only  to  pass  the  snow-line, 
but  the  desire  to  attempt  the  summit  had  been  taking 
possession  of  me  as  I ascended.  The  tonic  air  invigorated 
the  body ; the  glorious  panorama  inspired  the  mind  ; and 
I felt  capable  of  reaching  the  crest  of  one  of  those  beauti- 
ful twin  peaks  of  the  Huascaran  which  towered  above. 


181 


Ascents  of  Snow-capped  Summits 

The  cowardice  of  the  Cholos  inspired  me  with  anger  and 
disgust,  and  in  vain  I offered  them  reward  ; they  would 
not  leave  the  point  of  rocks  where  they  had  taken  refuge- 
At  length  I left  them,  and  went  on  alone. 

At  16,500  feet  I stopped.  Before  me  was  a deep  and 
narrow  crevasse,  which  it  seemed  imprudent  to  cross  alone. 
I long  stood  on  the  verge,  for  the  desire  to  go  on  was  very 
strong.  At  the  other  side,  still  far  away,  the  twin  peaks 
gleamed  like  purest  porcelain  in  the  rays  of  the  afternoon 
sun.  Blue  and  pearly  shadows  shaded  gently  off  upon 
their  flanks,  losing  themselves  in  grim  profundities,  where, 
far  below,  the  foamy  blanket  of  the  avalanche  now  lay  ; 
the  mist  of  its  pulverisation  still  hanging  like  a faint  white 
curtain  near  the  base.  Nearly  6,000  feet  above  me  the 
northernmost  peak  stood  out,  piercing  the  blue  heavens 
like  the  gnomon  of  a mighty  dial,  along  whose  sloping 
side  I could  ascend.  I was  alone  in  the  midst  of  that 
awful  yet  beautiful  solitude : alone  with  Nature  upon  the 
highest  points  of  matter — the  roof  of  the  world  ! 

But  an  unstable  matter,  for  at  my  right  hand  were 
millions  of  tons  of  ice  and  snow,  so  insecurely  poised  upon 
the  abrupt  steeps  that  a breath,  it  seemed,  might  hurl 
them  down  upon  me,  and  which,  even  as  I watched,  seemed 
almost  to  be  in  movement.  Also,  the  broad  ice-field  over 
which  my  gaze  wandered,  and  which  intervened  between 
me  and  the  base  of  the  “gnomon,”  was  crossed  by  faint 
blue  lines — the  surface  edges  of  innumerable  chasms  and 
crevasses.  Should  I go  on  alone  ? 

Yes.  I passed  the  crevasse,  and  continued  onward 
over  the  ice-cap,  slipping  at  times,  and  stopping  to  recover 
breath  from  the  thin  air,  and  to  observe  the  panorama 
below.  Again  I was  brought  to  a halt  by  an  abyss  wider 
and  deeper  than  before,  whilst  near  at  hand  and  all 
around  were  others.  The  ice-cap  was  folded,  rigid  and 
cracked  ; a false  step  might  send  me  down  a thousand 
feet  or  more : was  it  wise  to  proceed  alone  ? 

The  majesty  of  that  vast  solitude  fascinated  me : I 
was  glad  to  be  alone  where  no  human  foot  had  ever 
trod.  Far  below  and  far  away,  north  and  south,  extended 


182 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


the  valley  of  Huaylas,  threaded  by  the  river  Santa,  the 
villages  upon  its  banks  scarcely  distinguishable  through 
the  shimmering  mists;  whilst  to  the  west  the  clouds 
which  hung  upon  the  “Black  Cordillera ” shut  out  the 
vast  horizon  of  the  Pacific  Ocean.  But  not  a cloud  rested 
on  the  twin  peaks  of  Huascaran,  as  their  “porcelain” 
slopes  pierced  the  cerulean  vault  above  me.  Upon  their 
sides,  near  the  noble  crests,  enormous  banks  of  ice — vast, 
unsupported  snow-cornices — stood  out,  overhanging  the 
abyss  below  in  fearful  equilibrium,  and  casting  sharp, 
violet  shadows  upon  the  white  facades  from  which  they 
projected.  Again  it  looked  as  if  a breath  might  hurl 
them  downwards — as  indeed  they  had  been  hurled  before 
— and  again  I seem  to  see  them  move.  Suppose  they  fell 
— why  not  now,  as  at  any  other  moment  in  time  and 
space  ? I seemed  to  watch,  fascinated,  the  breaking 
away  — I could  imagine  exactly  what  it  would  be  like. 
A thunderous  roar:  an  engulfing  wave  of  snow  and 
ice  whose  appalling  crest  would  sweep  the  tableland 
between  us,  more  terrible  than  an  ocean  billow. 

Again  1 hesitated,  still  drawn  onward,  and  again  I 
examined  the  crevasse.  Part  of  the  tuft  of  snow  whereon 
I stood,  upon  the  verge,  crunched  and  gave  way,  falling 
down,  down,  down.  Was  it  a warning?  To  continue 
onward  might  be  death.  Yet  what  a resting-place  and 
grave-stone  for  a wearied  mortal ! By  day  rearing  its 
splendour  on  high,  this  gnomon  peak ; by  night  ever 
cutting  its  silent  arc  against  the  purple  dome  of  the 
starry  firmament — a launching  point  in  space  whence  a 
last  human  thought  might  wing  its  way,  leaving  its 
material  temple  to  eternal  preservation  in  the  matter  it 
strove  to  overcome. 

I turned  away  regretfully,  and  followed  my  own  foot- 
prints— the  only  ones  which  had  ever  been  made  there 
by  man — downwards  again,  passed  the  crevasse,  crossed 
the  tableland,  and  shortly  arrived  at  the  place  where  the 
Cholos  anxiously  awaited  my  return.  There  I made 
them  build  a cairn  of  loose  granite  blocks;  it  was  with 
a species  of  satisfaction  that  I saw  them  groan  and 


Thk  Huascaran  Peak:  A Snapshot:  Soroche-Strickbn  Mules. 


183 


Ascents  of  Snow-capped  Summits 

sweat — a punishment  for  having  failed  to  accompany  me, 
so  preventing  the  probability  of  arriving  at  the  summit. 

Within  the  cairn  I enclosed  a bottle  containing  my 
name,  the  date  and  the  altitude  at  which  I had  arrived — 
16,500  feet.  Then  we  descended  to  the  lower  edge  of  the 
snow-line  where  my  Peruvian  companion  was  still  await- 
ing me,  and  we  made  and  took  some  tea,  which  was  very 
acceptable. 

I found  it  relatively  easy  to  descend  over  the  ice-cap, 
by  the  method  of  sliding  in  an  erect  position,  down  the 
slopes,  digging  my  heels  and  staff  into  the  snow  when  I 
began  to  attain  too  great  a velocity.  The  Cholos  seeing 
me  perform  this,  were  much  amused,  and  bursting  into 
laughter  endeavoured  to  imitate  the  method,  but  generally 
fell  over  in  the  attempt,  or  lost  their  sandals  in  the  snow. 

We  arrived  later  at  the  mine  again,  and  the  following 
day  I returned  to  Yungay,  where  news  of  the  attempted 
ascent  had  preceded  us,  people  turning  out  to  observe  the 
Englishman  who  had  undertaken  such  a dangerous  and 
— to  their  way  of  thinking — useless  adventure.  “ Only  an 
ingles  would  have  done  it,”  was  their  comment, 

I consider  that  the  ascent  of  the  Huascaran  could  be 
made  without  great  difficulty,  with  proper  companions 
and  appliances.  I felt  a species  of  regret  as  I looked 
back  at  the  virgin  slopes  above  where  I had  ascended  ; 
that  regret  which  he  might  feel  who  has  loved,  whose 
love  has  been  reciprocated,  but  who  had  been  separated 
by  the  iron  hand  of  circumstance  from  the  beloved  object 
before  the  consummation  of  his  affections ! 

There  is  a series  of  other  beautiful  and  lofty  snow-clad 
peaks  in  the  continuation  of  the  “ Cordillera  Blanca,”  to 
the  north.  Some  of  these,  whose  heights  were  attained 
by  triangulation,  do  not  fall  very  greatly  below  that  of 
the  Huascaran.  The  latter  name  was  given  to  the  peak 
by  Raimondi.  The  name  by  which  the  Indians  know 
it  is  Mataraju  or  Matarao,  which  is  a Quechua  word 
meaning  the  “Twin  snow  peaks,”  or  “Snow  forehead.” 


CHAPTER  XVII 


MINERAL  WEALTH 

Most  of  the  Republics  of  Spanish  America  have  been 
endowed  by  Nature  with  abundant  wealth  in  metalliferous 
and  non-metalliferous  minerals.  Peru  is  remarkably  situ- 
ated in  this  respect,  and  enjoys  so  diversified  a range  of 
minerals  within  her  soil  that  their  enumeration  almost 
exhausts  the  list  of  ores  known  to  commerce  and  science. 

The  mineral-bearing  regions  cover  a zone  of  1,000 
miles  in  length  by  200  to  300  in  width,  embracing  both 
the  eastern  and  western  slopes,  and  the  summit,  of  the 
Cordillera  : the  whole  of  the  region,  in  short,  which  comes 
within  the  direct  influence  of  the  Andes.  The  rocks  are, 
speaking  generally,  of  the  Jurassic  and  Cretaceous  age. 

The  mineral-bearing  formations  may  be  roughly  divided 
into,  (1)  lodes  or  veins,  and  (2)  deposits.  Among  the 
former  I have  examined  numerous  lodes  of  gold,  silver, 
copper,  lead,  zinc,  iron,  quicksilver,  wolfram,  molybdenite, 
and  all  others,  excepting  tin.  Among  the  latter — gold, 
silver,  copper,  quicksilver,  coal,  salt,  nitrate,  borax,  etc. 

Many  of  the  gold  and  silver  mines  were  worked  in 
the  remote  past  — even  in  the  most  remote  places — by 
the  Indians  before  or  during  the  Inca  regime ; and  the 
Spaniards  followed  after  with  more  ambitious  enterprises. 
In  my  expeditions  I have  often  penetrated  into  the  bowels 
of  some  ancient  mine,  abandoned  for  centuries,  inhabited 
only  by  bats,  and — according  to  the  superstitions  of  my 
guides — by  the  spirits,  generally  evil,  which  guarded  these 
old  scenes  of  man’s  sweat  and  avarice.  I have  seen  no 
spirits,  but  imagination  might  easily  conjure  up  the  forms 
of  toiling  Indians,  doomed  by  hard  task-masters  to  labour 

184 


Mineral  Wealth 


185 


to  their  end,  unpaid  and  ill-fed.  Well  might  their  groan- 
ing flesh  have  left  some  protesting  phantom,  which  should 
haunt  these  abandoned  galleries,  until  some  final  day  when 
they  should  bear  witness  against  those  who  destroyed 
them  ! 

For  the  Spaniards  took  little  heed  of  Indian  life.  For 
them  the  Indians  were  but  instruments  by  which  a certain 
amount  of  gold  or  silver  ore  could  be  extracted  from  its 
abiding-place,  and  the  flow  of  noble  metals  which  poured 
into  the  coffers  of  that  once-powerful  Empire  of  Iberia 
called  a heavy  toll  upon  the  Indian  population  of  South 
America.  The  decimation  which  was  caused  in  Peru  by 
the  Spaniards  has  been  spoken  of  in  terms  of  millions ; 
but  whatever  may  be  its  real  amount,  the  fact  remains 
that  Pizarro  found  a country  whose  population  exceeded 
many  times  its  present  number,  and  that  the  slavery 
employed  in  the  mines  by  the  Viceroys  and  others,  was 
greatly  responsible  for  its  rapid  reduction. 

The  history  of  the  yellow  metal  in  Peru  is  largely  the 
history  of  the  country  itself.  There  is  no  doubt  that 
the  Incas  possessed  enormous  quantities  of  gold.  It  is 
not,  however,  to  be  supposed  that  gold  existed  in  nature 
then  in  a condition  which  rendered  its  winning  any  less 
difficult  than  at  present.  The  secret  of  the  great  mining 
operations  of  both  the  Incas  and  the  Spaniards  was  in 
“ cheap  mining  labour  ” ; that  is  to  say,  in  co-operation 
on  a large  scale  among  the  Incas,  and  in  slavery  and 
sacrifice  of  Indian  life  by  the  Spaniards.  I have  examined 
many  mines  in  the  interior  of  Peru,  which  have  been 
worked  on  a large  scale,  including  gold-bearing  gravel 
deposits,  where  the  excavation  which  has  been  carried 
out  in  centuries  past  is  considerable.  The  material  of 
these  deposits  did  not  necessarily  carry  a high  proportion 
of  gold,  but  it  was  abundant,  and  large  quantities  were 
handled  by  means  of  huge  “grants”  of  Indians  — who 
received  little  or  no  pay — and  produced  important  supplies 
of  gold. 

In  the  south  of  Peru  there  is  an  auriferous  region  which 
is  probably  one  of  the  most  important  in  the  world,  and  it 


186 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


is  remarkable  that  it  is  so  little  known  elsewhere.  This  is 
the  famous  region  of  Sandia  and  Carabaya ; provinces  of 
the  Department  of  Puno,  and  which  I have  spoken  of 
elsewhere.  The  remarkable  feature  of  this  region  is  its 
geological  and  topographical  formation,  and  the  con- 
siderable elevation  at  which  portions  of  it  are  situated 
— spanning  the  main  range  of  the  Andes — 15,000  to 

17.000  feet  altitude  above  sea-level.  Here  are  great 
deposits  of  gold-bearing  material  in  the  form  of  huge 
banks,  miles  in  extent.  These  are,  perhaps,  glacial 
deposits — moraines ; and  in  some  instances  they  form 
escarpments  whose  upper  extremities  are  contiguous  to, 
or  rather  are  thrown  off  from,  the  very  summits  of  the 
perpetual  snow-capped  range.  One  of  these  enormous 
banks,  more  than  2 leagues  in  length,  has  been  worked 
at  one  end  from  time  immemorial,  and  at  present  the 
material  is  being  treated  by  hydraulic  methods  with 
“ monitors.”  A theoretical  calculation  has  been  made 
of  the  gold  contained  in  this  moraine — if  such  it  be — 
which  results  in  a sum  greater  than  the  total  value 
which  has  come  out  of  California  since  the  discovery 
of  that  country.  This  is  the  great  Hank  of  Poto. 

There  is  a series  of  these  remarkable  banks,  and  lower 
down,  and  forming  the  plains  at  the  immediate  base  of 
the  snow  - capped  peaks  of  the  Andes,  are  extensive 
plains,  or  pampas , whose  material  is  a gold  - bearing 
soil.  Certain  areas  might  be  susceptible  to  profitable 
working  by  means  of  dredging,  or  other  well  - known 
methods.  These  plains  are  at  an  elevation  of  about 

15.000  to  16,000  feet,  and  the  climate  is  not  excessively 
rigorous,  except  at  certain  seasons.  I have  slept  in  the 
open  air  on  several  occasions  in  this  neighbourhood, 
even  at  a higher  elevation,  and  have  experienced  little 
inconvenience  from  the  cold. 

These  auriferous  earths,  at  any  rate  in  some  cases, 
are  of  glacial  formation.  The  stones  they  contain  do  not 
generally  show  the  effect  of  attrition,  such  as  in  the 
deposits  of  water-worn  gravel  which  occur  at  a much 
lower  elevation  in  the  same  district,  but  are  generally 


Mineral  Wealth 


187 


angular,  and  rests  in  a position  which  shows  that  they 
have  been  deposited  in  quiet  waters,  and  have  not  travelled 
far  from  their  place  of  origin  to  their  final  resting-place. 
The  mass  of  the  material  is  a marly  and  ashen-hued 
earth ; the  stones  or  fragments  of  rock  are  of  slate  and 
quartz,  the  same  material  as  the  mountains  upon  which 
they  rest.  All  along  these  extensive  gold-bearin pampas 
are  strewn  blocks,  generally  small,  of  white  quartz,  which 
are  very  noticeable,  as  they  are  washed  clean  by  the 
frequent  rains,  and  shine  out  from  the  grey  soil  of  the 
plains. 

Alternative  to  the  supposition  of  the  glacial  formation 
of  these  enormous  auriferous  deposits  in  this  region,  is 
the  assumption  that  they  are  the  result  of  action  caused 
by  the  bursting  of  enormous  lakes,  which  had  this  sedi- 
mentary gold-bearing  material  below  their  waters.  And 
this  action  has  undoubtedly  taken  place  in  some  cases, 
as  the  topographical  conditions  show.  The  waters  of 
these  former  lakes  seem  to  have  forced  a violent  passage 
to  the  lower  levels,  destroying  the  rocks  and  carrying 
down  the  debris . The  effect  of  such  huge  bodies  of 

water,  released  from  considerable  heights,  and  descending 
the  slopes  of  the  Andes,  can  be  partly  imagined  ; and 
the  vast  quantities  of  material  which  have  been  moved, 
and  its  general  disposition,  bears  out  this  idea  in  a 
striking  way. 

As  to  the  lakes,  many  exist  still,  and  nothing  more 
attracts  the  attention  of  the  traveller  and  engineer  than 
the  existence  of  these  huge  bodies  of  water,  actually 
astride  the  summit  of  a mountain  range  at  an  altitude 
above  sea -level  of  15,000  to  17,000  feet.  For  example, 
Lake  Aricoma,  upon  whose  shores  a heavy  snow-storm 
overtook  me  at  nightfall,  and  where  I was  obliged  to  sleep 
without  shelter,  is  at  15,000  feet.  It  is  2 to  3 leagues  in 
length,  more  than  a mile  in  width,  and,  judging  by  the 
violets  and  greens  of  its  tranquil  waters,  must  be  of  great 
depth.  I have  described  this  lake  elsewhere. 

The  eastern  flanks  of  the  Andes  descend  rapidly ; and 
within  one  day’s  journey  the  traveller  has  descended  from 


188 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


these  high  places  to  the  more  sheltered  valleys  below, 
almost  at  the  beginning  of  the  forest  regions,  and  at 
an  elevation  of  10,000  or  12,000  feet.  Penetrating  still 
further,  the  traveller  arrives  at  that  remarkable  system 
of  gold-bearing  rivers  and  streams,  still  in  the  same 
Province,  which  forms  the  head-waters  of  the  Madre  de 
Dios  river. 

Here  are  some  enormous  deposits  of  auriferous  gravel — 
old  river-beds,  or  lake-bottoms — which  have  been  upheaved 
to  their  present  position  by  subsequent  geological  move- 
ment. One  of  such  deposits — Aporoma — which  I visited, 
has  been  the  scene  of  extensive  work  during,  as  well  as 
before,  the  Spanish  regime , and  is  described  in  a former 
chapter. 

Where  did  the  Incas  obtain  their  great  wealth  of  gold  ? 
There  is  no  doubt  that  they  worked  these  huge  auriferous 
alluvial  deposits,  and  that  they  partly  formed  the  source 
of  their  treasures.  The  Spaniards  on  their  arrival  appear 
to  have  immediately  taken  note  of  these  gold  mines,  for 
one  of  the  Pizarros  took  possession  of  one  of  the  richest, 
and  worked  it  on  a large  scale  immediately  after  the 
conquest  of  Peru. 

There,  then,  are  these  vast  mines,  generally  in  entire 
abandonment.  They  have  yielded  up  much  gold  for 
generations  past.  They  have  been  the  scene  of  blood- 
shed, cruelty,  and  avarice  in  forgotten  years  of  long  ago, 
and  there  they  lie,  inviting  modern  enterprise,  modern 
fraud,  and  modern  avarice.  The  filibusters  of  the  past 
may  be  succeeded  by  the  “ buccaneers  ” of  to-day,  and 
the  London  or  New  York  promoters  and  stock  exchange 
gamblers  may  now  take  precedence  ! 

On  some  of  these  rich  gold-bearing  streams  the  Indians 
work  for  the  extraction  of  gold,  employing  the  methods 
which  they  themselves  have  developed.  In  some  places 
they  have  constructed  what  they  term  “ gold  farms,” 
where  they  literally  “ harvest  ” their  annual  crop  of  gold. 
This  consists  in  the  paving  of  suitable  river-bars  with 
large  stones  set  edgeways,  forming  a “floor,”  the  stones 
and  the  interstices  between  them  acting  as  “ riffles.” 


Mineral  Wealth 


189 


When  the  river  rises  in  flood,  it  carries  down  the  gold- 
dust  within  its  waters,  and  deposits  it  upon  the  prepared 
area.  When  the  dry  weather  causes  the  volume  of  the 
flood  to  decrease,  the  “ farm  ” is  again  laid  bare,  the  stones 
are  removed,  the  rich  gravel  deposited  between  them 
collected  and  washed,  whence  gold  in  nuggets  and  dust 
in  large  quantities  is  extracted.  The  stones  are  again 
placed  in  order,  and  the  “ farm  ” is  ready  for  another 
“ harvest.”  On  the  higher  pampas , of  which  I have 
previously  spoken,  a different  method  is  employed.  An 
open  conduit  or  ditch  is  run  from  some  small  stream,  as 
nearly  horizontal  as  possible,  in  order  to  gain  altitude 
above  the  stream-bed,  or  ganancia , as  the  Spanish  term 
has  it.  From  this  conduit  small  sluices  are  conducted, 
terminating  in  the  stream-bed  ; and  into  these,  which  are 
paved  with  stone,  the  earth  or  gravel  is  thrown.  The 
water  is  admitted  into  the  conduit,  and  rushes  violently 
down  the  sluices,  washing  away  the  soil  and  leaving  a 
gold-bearing  residue  of  sand,  which  is  collected,  and  the 
gold  washed  out  in  bateas  or  pans. 

In  examining  these  regions  I have  employed  the 
Indian  miners  at  times,  and  they  are  very  expert  with 
the  batea.  Diligently  and  patiently  they  wash  out  pan 
after  pan  of  soil,  as  I stand  over  them. 

“ Ori  Cancha  ?”  I ask  them,  perhaps,  as  the  material 
disappears,  which  in  their  language  of  Quechua  is,  “ Is 
there  gold  ? ” “ Manam  Cancha ,”  they  sometimes  reply, 

which  being  interpreted  means,  “ There  is  no  gold.”  But 
generally  they  hand  me  the  batea , with  several  bright, 
yellow  particles  reposing  among  the  black  sand  at  the 
bottom.  In  the  former  instance,  if  the  undesirable 
negative  recurs  too  much,  the  following  operation  is 
necessary,  in  order  to  appease  some  unamiable  spirit 
which  is  supposed  to  be  hovering  nigh,  and  which  has 
exerted  its  influence  to  prevent  the  gold  appearing. 
The  Indian  takes  a mouthful  of  native  brandy  from  my 
bottle — which  I generally  carry  for  “ emergencies  ” — and 
blows  a portion  of  the  alcohol  to  the  north,  the  south,  the 
east,  and  the  west.  A small  portion  is  poured  into  the 


190 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


pan,  and  also — superfluous  to  add — down  his  own  throat. 
This  being  performed,  all  the  warring  elements  are 
appeased ; the  washing  continues,  generally  with  satis- 
factory results.  I have  observed  that  this  invisible  agency 
requires  appeasing  several  times  during  the  day,  and  with 
marked  regularity,  but  1 have  not  generally  considered 
it  necessary  to  enquire  too  closely  into  its  methods. 

The  region  above  described  is  traversed  by  innumer- 
able lodes  of  gold-bearing  quartz,  but,  with  few  excep- 
tions, these  are  unknown  and  unworked.  The  formation 
of  the  country  is,  as  stated,  slate  with  quartz.  Some  of  the 
lodes  are  phenomenally  rich  in  gold,  one  in  particular 
having  been  a by-word  in  the  country.  This  was  being 
worked  by  an  American  company,  and  the  gold  was 
sent  to  the  Lima  mint.  A shipment  of  the  gold  in 
bars  passed  me  on  the  road,  of  three  hundredweight, 
which  was  stated  to  be  only  a fortnightly  remittance, 
and  the  result  of  the  working  of  ten  stamps.  It  speaks 
well  for  the  conditions  of  the  country  that  the  only 
escort  with  this  treasure  was  a solitary  individual  with 
a carbine.  The  mine  is  in  a region  covered  with  vegeta- 
tion, and  was  discovered  by  accident,  due  to  a landslip. 
These  very  rich  lodes,  however,  are  not  of  great  extension 
or  permanence. 

The  gold,  therefore,  in  this  part  of  Peru  exists  under 
diverse  conditions.  There  are  the  great  banks  before 
described,  with  a value  in  gold  of  perhaps  twenty  or 
thirty  cents,  upwards,  per  cubic  yard,  and  which  is 
recoverable  by  the  14  hydraulic  ” system  with  “ monitors.” 
There  arc  the  level  plains  or  pampas  of  auriferous  soil 
which  arc  probably  susceptible  to  gold  recovery  by  means 
of  dredges.  There  arc  the  river-beds  and  bars,  where  the 
gold  may  be  recovered  in  some  places  by  dredging,  in  others 
by  washing  in  sluice  boxes,  and  lastly,  the  veins  and  lodes 
which  call  for  the  use  of  machinery  adapted  thereto. 

Other  famous  regions  where  auriferous  gravels  are 
encountered  are  the  districts  of  Pataz,  and  the  river 
Marafton.  This  latter  has  been  described  in  the  chapter 
dealing  with  my  expedition  thereto.  The  Indians  of 


Mineral  Wealth 


191 


the  Maranon  wash  out  gold-dust  and  nuggets  from  the 
river-bed  at  certain  seasons  when  the  water  is  low.  They 
were  not  acquainted  with  the  use  of  quicksilver  for  this 
purpose,  apparently,  before  I showed  them  how  to 
employ  it. 

The  regions  of  gold  - bearing  alluvial  deposits  are 
entirely  on  the  summit  or  eastern  slope  of  the  Andes. 
None  of  the  rivers  flowing  into  the  Pacific  carry  gold, 
except  in  one  exception  of  the  Chuquicara  river,  join- 
ing the  river  Santa,  which  breaks  through  the  western 
Cordillera  at  the  termination  of  the  valley  of  Huaylas# 
Not  so,  however,  with  the  quartz  lode-bearing  formations 
which  occur  in  almost  every  part  of  the  country.  Some 
of  the  better-known  gold-bearing  regions,  including  those 
already  described,  may  be  briefly  enumerated.  On  the 
western  side  of  the  Andes  are  those  of  Salpo,  Otuzco, 
Huaylas,  Yungay,  Ocros,  Chorillos,  Canete,  lea,  Nazca, 
Andaray,  Arequipa,  etc.,  and  on  the  summit,  tablelands 
and  eastern  slope,  and  Montana ; Pataz,  the  Upper 
Maranon,  Huanuco,  Ouinua,  Huancavelica,  Cuzco,  Cota- 
tambas,  Aymaraes,  Paucartambo,  Quispicanchi,  Marcapata, 
Santo  Domingo,  Poto,  Aporoma,  etc.,  in  Sandia  and 
Carabaya ; and  a host  of  others  throughout  the  vast 
zone  already  spoken  of. 

Comparatively  few  of  these  regions  contain  mines  in 
work  at  the  present.  The  total  output  of  gold  in  1901 
was  only  about  ^250,000,  and  fell  in  1904  to  ^80,000. 
The  total  amount  of  gold  coined  at  the  Lima  mint  in 
the  years  1898 — when  the  coinage  of  silver  was  suspended 
— up  to  and  including  the  first  half  of  1905,  was  .£556,480. 
It  is  seen,  therefore,  that  at  present  the  industry  of 
gold  mining  is  but  little  developed  ; not  due  to  lack  of 
the  prime  material,  but  to  other  causes.  The  auriferous 
quartz  lodes  are  generally  found  in  the  granite  and 
dioritic  rocks. 

In  the  history  of  gold  in  Peru  mention  may  not  be 
omitted  of  the  Inca  treasures,  and  the  rescate  or  ransom 
of  the  ill-fated  Atahualpa,  and  I am  tempted  to  translate 
from  the  Peruvian  writer,  Zapata  (see  page  212),  although 


192 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


his  information  is  largely  gathered  from  sources  which 
have  been  employed  by  other  historians.  He  says : 

“ Atahualpa  was  not  Emperor  of  Peru,  but  a tyrant 
of  this  Empire.  According  to  the  laws  of  the  kingdom 
he  was  a bastard  son  of  the  great  Huayna-Capac.  In 
possession  of  the  kingdom  of  Quito  when  the  latter 
died,  and  not  content  therewith,  he  aspired  to  the  whole 
Empire. 

“ To  accomplish  this  Atahualpa  sent  numerous  troops 
to  Cuzco,  the  capital  of  Peru  and  Inca  Court,  against 
Huascar,  his  brother.  Thirty  thousand  men  were  slain 
on  both  sides,  and  both  monarchs  were  made  prisoners 
by  their  respective  enemies.  Atahualpa  escaped,  and 
caused  forty-three  of  his  brothers  to  be  beheaded,  and 
Huascar — the  real  Emperor — was  thrown  into  prison.” 

It  should  be  here  observed  that  most  Spanish 
historians  endeavour  to  paint  Atahualpa  in  dark  colours : 
possibly  to  excuse  the  crime  of  their  countrymen  in 
betraying  him. 

“ In  this  condition  was  Peru  when  the  Spaniards  arrived 
in  the  country  for  the  second  time — their  first  visit  had 
been  to  Tumbez  in  1525.  Pizarro  marched  to  Cajamarca, 
by  request  of  Atahualpa,  and  sent  Hernando  Soto  as 
emissary,  who  was  received  by  the  Inca  with  presents  of 
gold  and  silver,  and  told  to  inform  Pizarro  that  he  would 
see  him  on  the  following  day,  when  he  must  give  him 
the  reason  for  his  arrival  in  that  country, 

" Pizarro  disposed  300  men  behind  the  walls  bound- 
ing the  plaza,  and  these  were  encamped  when  the  Inca 
entered,  accompanied  by  his  followers  and  grandees, 
borne  in  palanquins  of  gold  on  Indians'  shoulders. 
Pizarro  was  presented,  and  asked  by  the  Inca  the  reason 
of  his  visit  to  such  remote  regions.  Reply  was  made  by 
Vicente  Valverde,  the  friar,  by  means  of  the  interpreter, 
Felipe  Huallpa,  to  the  effect  that  the  High  Pontifice 
and  the  Emperor  had  sent  his  Chief  to  announce  to 
them  the  true  faith  of  Jesus  Christ,  and  that  as  they — 
the  Spaniards  — were  emissaries  of  these  two  supreme 
heads  of  the  world,  tribute  must  be  paid  them.  The 
Inca  replied  that  he  could  be  tributary  to  no  other 
monarch  ; payment  of  homage  would  be  foreign  to  his 
sovereignty.  Even  less  could  he  adore  the  god  they 
announced,  or  recognise  their  Pontifice. 


Mineral  Wealth 


193 


“Fray  Vicente  Valverde,  desiring  to  persuade  him 
upon  the  last  matter,  the  Inca  requested  some  testimony 
as  to  the  truth  of  what  he  affirmed,  and  Valverde  put  into 
his  hand  an  open  breviary.  Thinking  that  the  book  might 
satisfy  him,  the  Inca  spoke  to  it,  turning  the  leaves  mean- 
while ; but,  seeing  no  reply  forthcoming,  he  threw  it  from 
him  with  a mocking  gesture. 

‘“Christians!  The  Evangelist  trampled  upon!’  cried 
out  Valverde  at  the  instant,” 

and  this  seems  to  have  been  the  signal  for  a massacre, 
for  Zapata  goes  on  to  describe  how  the  Spaniards  fell 
furiously  upon  the  Indians,  killing  five  thousand,  and 
taking  Atahualpa  prisoner. 

Then  came  the  offer  of  the  famous  rescate , or  ransom  ; 
and  it  is  recorded  that  Atahualpa,  reaching  up  at  arm’s 
length  against  the  walls  of  the  room  where  he  was 
imprisoned,  offered  to  fill  it  to  that  height  with  gold 
if  he  were  released,  and,  in  addition,  to  fill  the  whole 
house  with  silver.  The  room  was  stated  to  be  22  by  27 
feet,  and,  supposing  the  line  marked  to  have  been  6 feet 
high,  the  value  of  the  cubical  contents 1 of  the  apartment, 
taking  the  modern  price  of  gold,  might  be  calculated 
at  one  hundred  million  sterling.  This  would  be  about 
equivalent  to  four  years’  production  of  the  Transvaal 
mines,  taking  their  present  annual  output  of  twenty-five 
million  pounds. 

There  seems  to  be  no  doubt  that  the  offer  could  have 
been  fulfilled  as  far  as  the  existence  of  gold  in  the 
possession  of  the  people  was  concerned,  but,  impatient  of 
delay,  the  Spaniards  killed  Atahualpa  and  burned  his 
body,  on  the  3rd  May,  1532.  Their  excuse  for  this 
barbarous  act  was  that  the  Inca  had  caused  his  brother 
Huascar  to  be  secretly  assassinated,  and  that  the 
emissaries  he  had  sent  out  to  bring  in  the  gold  had 
charged  the  Indians  to  come  to  his  succour.  The  actual 
amount  collected  was  equal  to  a value  of  about  three 
and  a half  million  pounds,  says  the  historian,  Garcilaso. 

Zapata,  like  all  other  writers  on  the  subject,  gives 
details  of  the  vast  treasures  of  gold  possessed  by  the 

1 Made  up  of  objects  and  utensils  of  gold. 

N 


194 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


Incas,  in  the  form  of  vessels  and  utensils.  Statues  of  the 
previous  Incas,  adornments  of  temples,  such  as  the  solid 
sheets  and  plates  of  gold  covering  the  walls  of  these  at 
Cuzco  and  Pachacamac ; gardens  full  of  artificial  flowers, 
etc.,  formed  of  gold ; the  figures  of  animals  in  the  same 
metal.  He  also  speaks  of  the  great  amount  of  treasure  in 
gold  that  was  obtained  by  the  early  Conquistadores  in 
Cuzco  and  other  places,  as  well  as  the  vast  quantities 
which  are  supposed  to  be  still  hidden  or  buried  in 
different  parts  of  the  country,  especially  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Cuzco,  Cajamarca,  and  Pachacamac.  He  quotes 
from  Garcilaso  as  follows : 

“ If  all  the  treasure  buried  in  Peru  were  discovered  it 
would  be  impossible  to  enumerate  its  value  ; so  powerful  a 
sum  is  it  that  all  that  the  Spaniards  have  obtained  is  in 
comparison  but  little.” 

He  also  speaks  of  the  treasure  hidden  in  Lake  Orcos, 
near  Cuzco,  and  says  : 

" It  is  stated  that  the  Indians  threw  therein  the  great 
chain  of  gold  that  Huayna  Capac  had  made  in  celebration 
of  the  birth  of  his  son,  to  whom  he  gave  the  name  of 
Huojcar,  which  word  means  rope  or  chain.  This  chain, 
according  to  Solorzano,  could  scarcely  be  carried  by  two 
hundred  Indians,  and  was  233  yards  long,  and  of  corre- 
sponding thickness.” 

Whatever  may  be  the  truth  of  all  these  accounts, 
it  is  certain  that  the  Incas  wrought  in  gold  with  much 
ingenuity  and  delicacy.  I have  seen  gold  objects  which 
have  been  dug  up  from  the  huacas — tombs  or  temples — 
some  of  very  fine  workmanship. 

It  is  to  be  observed  that  among  the  old  inhabitants  of 
Peru  gold  was  much  associated  with  religious  thought  and 
worship,  as  indeed  it  has  been  with  peoples  of  earlier 
semi-civilisation  generally  throughout  the  world.  During 
my  stay  in  the  city  of  Huaraz  some  religious  objects 
were  discovered  not  far  away,  in  a subterranean  temple, 
upon  an  altar  of  curious  conical  form,  having  beneath 
it  a chamber  for  acoustic  purposes,  and  which  latter  I 


Mineral  Wealth 


195 


examined.  The  objects,  of  which  I was  given  a photo- 
graph, which  is  shown  elsewhere,  consisted  principally  of 
discs  of  gold,  silver  and  copper,  tied  together  with  a ribbon 
of  gold,  strong  and  flexible  ; shells  formed  of  delicate  leaves 
of  gold ; two  figures  representing  some  animal,  and  two 
sea-shells.  The  occurrence  of  the  three  metals  mentioned, 
and  which,  I was  informed,  always  appear  among  Inca 
traditions  in  the  neighbourhood,  has  a special  signification. 
The  belief  was  that  in  ages  past  there  fell  from  heaven  an 
egg  of  copper,  from  which  the  first  Indians  sprang ; after  a 
time  a second  egg,  of  silver,  fell,  from  which  issued  the 
nobility  ; and  that  after  a long  lapse  of  time  a third  egg  of 
gold  fell,  from  which  came  forth  the  Inca.  The  god  they 
adored  in  that  region  was  the  well-known  deity  Viracocha 
or  Huiracocha,  and  the  sea-shells  had  probably  some  bear- 
ing upon  the  matter. 

Zapata  writes  lengthily  of  the  Temple  of  Pachacamac, 
near  Lima,  which  was  one  of  the  principal  centres  of 
religion  of  the  former  people.  To-day  it  is  a heap  of 
ruins,  for,  unlike  the  temples  of  the  interior,  it  was  con- 
structed only  of  adobe  bricks,  which  have  not  been  able 
to  resist  the  ravages  of  time.  He  says : 

“The  Indians  profusely  used  the  purest  gold  in  their 
offerings  in  this  temple.  . . . The  Spaniards  took  27  loads 
of  gold  from  this  place,  but  were  unable  to  obtain  some 
400  other  loads  of  gold  and  silver,  which,  according  to 
tradition,  is  hidden,  buried  in  the  sandy  plain  near  at 
hand. 

“ The  temple  was  dedicated  to  Pachacamac,  which 
means  ‘ the  Spirit  of  the  Universe.’  In  its  dedication, 
Cuyus-Mancu,  who  was  the  Chief  of  the  valley,  denied 
the  omnipotence  of  the  Sun — the  belief  in  which  was 
held  by  the  other  Indians.  There  is  no  doubt  that 
this  prince  was  the  first  in  America  to  worship  the  true 
God,  constructing  a temple  in  his  dominions  ; and,  although 
it  is  pretended  that  the  Incas  adored  Pachacamac,  they 
had  no  notice  of  him  until  Tupac-Yupanqui,  Inca  XI. 
of  Peru,  carrying  his  conquests  to  that  region,  entered 
Pachacamac,  and,  hearing  that  it  was  the  ‘ Unknown  God  ’ 
that  those  people  adored,  respected  his  sacred  name. 

“ Cuyus-Mancu  gathered  together  the  philosophers  and 


196 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


priests,”  continued  Zapata,  u and  set  forth  as  a law 
touching  this  deity  who  must  be  adored,  the  following 
clauses : * He  (the  Sun)  cannot  be  an  universal  God,  who, 
giving  light  to  some,  interposes  a cloud  between  his 
rays,  darkening  the  light  for  others.  Have  then  as  the 
supreme  God  He  who  created  the  world  and  taught 
the  hearts  of  men,  and  call  Him  henceforward  Pachacamac 
— He  who  is  the  real  Creator  and  the  vivifier  of  all 
things ' ! ” 

We  see,  therefore,  according  to  these  accounts,1  that 
this  Indian  chief,  who  was  not  even  an  Inca,  had  raised 
up  an  altar  to  the  “Unknown  God”  — a God,  who, 
according  to  their  beliefs,  could  have  no  tangible  form 
and  no  visible  representation  in  any  image  or  likeness, 
yet  who  pervaded  everything. 

1 The  best  accounts  of  all  these  matters  are  to  be  found  in  Markham’s 
translations  for  the  Hakluyt  series. 


CHAPTER  XVIII 


MINERAL  WEALTH — Continued 

In  the  last  chapter  I have  touched  upon  the  historical 
side  of  gold  mining  and  finding  in  Peru.  Gold  is  ever 
interwoven  with  man’s  history,  wherever  it  may  be.  The 
principal  miners  have  been,  in  their  respective  epochs,  the 
old  inhabitants  of  the  country,  the  Incas  and  Aymaraes  ; 
followed  by  the  Spaniards  and  Portuguese.  Indeed, 
traditions  in  some  of  the  gold-bearing  regions  aver  that 
mining  was  carried  on  long  before  the  Inca  regime. 
During  the  colonial  period  of  Spain  a great  development 
in  mining  took  place,  as  has  already  been  shown,  and 
colonies  of  Portuguese  became  established,  in  the  pursuit 
of  this  industry.  In  1642,  however,  the  Portuguese  were 
prohibited  from  working,  and  they  largely  left  the 
country.  They  abandoned,  in  some  cases,  partly-worked 
mines,  many  of  which  have  recently  been  shown  to  be 
of  much  value. 

Many  of  the  quartz  lodes  of  gold-bearing  ores,  which 
I have  visited,  have  extensive  old  workings  upon  them, 
although  these  did  not  penetrate  much  below  the  oxidised 
zone,  where  the  material  is  richer  and  more  easily  worked 
by  reason  of  the  dissolution  of  pyritical  matter,  and  a 
certain  natural  concentration  which  takes  place  consequent 
thereon.  The  Indian  miners  extracted  the  gold — and  still 
do  so  in  some  regions — by  means  of  primitive  appliances 
for  crushing,  known  as  kimbaletes.  These  generally  consist 
of  a hollowed-out  block  of  granite  with  a rocking-stone 
placed  therein — a species  of  huge  pestle  and  mortar,  into 
which  the  ore,  broken  up  fine,  water,  and  quicksilver,  are 
fed.  They  vary  much  in  size,  being  sometimes  3 or 

197 


198 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


4 feet  in  diameter,  and  often  worked  by  two  men.  I 
have  seen  hundreds  of  these  ancient  appliances  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  the  old  mines,  and  have,  at  times, 
even  used  them  for  testing  the  value  of  the  ores  in  my 
examination  of  these  mines. 

I have  found  the  lodes  sometimes  honeycombed,  near 
the  surface,  with  old  workings,  and  near  at  hand  large 
heaps  of  ore  which  had  been  discarded  as  being  of  too 
low  a grade  for  the  primitive  workers,  or  containing 
pyritous  material  which  rendered  it  refractory  to  their 
method  of  amalgamation  with  quicksilver.  The  mining 
regions  of  Peru  contain  thousands  of  workings  of  this 
nature,  which  are  lying  idle  or  abandoned,  and  which 
will,  some  day,  form  the  basis  of  extensive  gold  mining 
enterprise.  It  is  true  that  they  are  often  remote ; that 
the  country  is  broken  and  mountainous,  and  that  roads 
are  poor  or  non-existent.  But  it  must  not  be  forgotten 
that  these  very  conditions  contain  certain  advantages. 
The  deep  valleys  and  high  summits  crossed  by  the  lodes 
permit  these  to  be  worked  by  tunnels  run  upon  the  ore- 
bodies  : a more  economical  method  than  that  of  hoisting 
through  shafts.  The  configuration  of  such  mountainous 
regions  generally  assures  the  existence  of  streams  of 
water  in  the  valleys,  and  often  of  available  water-power ; 
whilst  the  lack  of  roads  in  the  past  has,  at  least,  had 
the  merit  of  reserving  for  the  present  generation  what 
otherwise  might  have  been  consumed  by  a former. 
Some  of  the  mines  I have  examined  have  the  outcrops 
of  the  lodes  2,000  and  3,000  feet  above  their  lowest 
available  adit  level  on  the  valley  floor,  and  the  lodes 
varying  from  2 to  8 feet,  and  in  some  cases  up  to  50 
feet  wide,  are  traceable  for  leagues  across  the  country. 
Some  of  the  lodes  I have  visited,  containing  complex 
ores  of  gold,  silver,  lead,  copper,  and  zinc,  in  the  same 
matrix,  are  more  than  100  feet  wide. 

Of  course,  where  the  metal  recovered  is  gold  or  silver 
the  question  of  roads  is  not  so  serious,  as  the  machinery 
once  being  established,  the  product  is  easily  brought  out 
on  mule-back.  But  where  other  minerals  are  recovered, 


Mineral  Wealth 


199 


or  ore  exported,  it  may  render  working  prohibitive  at 
present.  Smelting  operations,  moreover,  require  fuel  to 
be  carried  to  the  site. 

Primitive  smelting  was  practised  in  the  metallurgy 
of  the  old  inhabitants  of  Peru,  in  pre-Columbian  days. 

I will  translate  a little  from  Zapata  on  the  subject.  He 
says : 

“ At  first  the  Spaniards  worked  the  mines,  extracting 
only  the  richest  ores  (silver),  treating  them  by  means  of 
smelting  in  furnaces  where  draught  was  artificially  obtained 
by  means  of  bellows.  Afterwards,  the  Indians  showed 
them  the  method  which  they  had  used,  from  time  im- 
memorial, for  founding  their  metals.  This  they  did  in 
furnaces  called  guayras , which  were  of  clay,  of  about  a 
yard  in  height,  nearly  square,  open  above  by  four  small 
apertures  in  the  sides,  and  narrower  at  the  bottom  than  the 
top.  The  ores,  sufficiently  wetted  and  incorporated  with 
others  that  facilitated  their  smelting,  were  deposited  in  the 
apparatus,  which  was  then  filled  up  with  some  combustible, 
and  the  whole  began  to  burn  by  means  of  the  natural 
blowing  of  the  wind,  which  gave  a better  result  than  the 
artificial  draught  of  a bellows.  This  method  of  smelting 
was  continued,  so  that  at  night,  upon  the  heights  of  the 
hills,  the  lights  of  more  than  15,000  little  furnaces  were 
seen.  The  word  guayra  means,  in  Quechua,  ‘ wind.’  ” 

Zapata,  in  the  above,  has  quoted  principally  from 
Pinelo,  and  the  mines  where  these  operations  were  carried 
out  seem  to  have  been  the  silver-lead  mines  of  Potosi.  It 
is  to  be  noted  that  these  rude  furnaces  had  something 
in  common  with  modern  smelting  practice,  and  that  they 
were  of  tapering  or  “boshed”  form,  as  it  is  technically 
known,  and  such  as  is  now  used  in  smelter  practice.  I 
have  found  remains  of  these  appliances  in  different  parts 
of  the  country.  In  Tarapaca  also,  in  the  valleys  upon 
the  western  slope  of  the  Andes,  I have  seen  numerous 
small  primitive  ore-smelting  ovens,  but  of  a different 
form,  and  which,  although  they  present  the  appearance 
of  long  abandonment,  did  not  seem  to  be  of  so  remote 
a period  as  the  Inca. 

Silver  is  one  of  the  most — -perhaps  the  most — prolific 


200 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


of  the  minerals  of  Peru.  There  is  hardly  any  mining 
region  where  it  is  not  found,  and  it  generally  accom- 
panies gold  ores,  just  as  gold  in  Peru  accompanies  nearly 
all  metallic  ores,  whether  of  copper,  silver,  or  iron.  To 
attempt  to  enumerate  the  silver  mines  of  the  country 
would  be  to  fill  a volume.  The  silver-mining  region  of 
the  Department  of  Junin,  in  which  the  well-known  Cerro 
de  Pasco  copper  mines  are  situated,  produced,  it  is 
stated  in  Government  documents,  silver  to  the  value  of 
^40,000,000  between  1784  and  1889.  The  country  is 
dotted  with  small  oficinas  which  mine  and  treat  silver 
ores  by  lixiviation  and  amalgamation  methods.  Some  of 
the  better-known  districts  may  be  mentioned,  beginning 
at  the  north  of  Peru,  as  Salpo,  Hualgayoc,  Huari,  Hual- 
lanca,  Huaylas,  Recuay,  Cajatambo,  Yauli,  Cerro  de  Pasco, 
Huarochiri,  Huancavelica,  Quespisisa,  Castrovirreyna, 
Lucanas,  Lampa,  Cailloma,  Puno,  etc.,  and  a myriad 
of  others  hidden  away  in  the  valleys  of  the  great 
Andean  region.  Nearly  all  the  silver  regions  of  import- 
ance are  at  high  elevation  in  the  broken  country  of 
the  true  Cordillera,  generally  upon  the  eastern  slope. 
The  ores  occur  principally  in  the  sedimentary  and 
metamorphic  rocks,  and  chiefly  comprise  the  sulphides 
and  red  oxides  of  silver.  Argentiferous  galena  is  exceed- 
ingly abundant,  and  it  is  a feature  of  the  silver-mining 
districts  that  coal-beds  are  often  found  in  close  proximity. 
Water  is  generally  plentiful ; wood  and  timber  often 
scarce,  and  the  climate  generally  cold.  There  is  a sort 
of  popular  saying  among  the  miners  in  Peru  that  the 
gold  seeks  a warm  climate,  and  the  silver  a cold  one : 
a maxim  which,  however,  has  many  exceptions.  The 
character  of  the  scenery  where  the  silver  regions  exist 
is  wild  in  the  extreme,  and  often  stupendous,  as  will  be 
seen  from  the  accompanying  views. 

The  production  of  silver  in  Peru  in  recent  years  fell 
below  that  of  former  periods,  owing  to  low  prices  for  the 
metal.  During  1904  the  value  was  estimated  at  slightly 
under  half  a million  sterling.  There  are  signs  that  it 
is  again  increasing,  due  to  better  prices.  The  ores  are 


Typical  Mining  Hacienda  in  the  Andes. 


Mineral  Wealth 


201 


often  exceedingly  rich,  great  “ pockets  ” of  the  red  oxides 
being  commonly  found  within  the  lodes,  a single  one 
of  which  may  constitute  a fortune.  Many  of  the  silver 
mines  have  long  ago  reached  water-level,  and  require 
draining  in  order  to  further  extract  the  great  boy  as  or 
bonanzas  which  remain,  and  which  had  to  be  left  for  that 
reason.  These  mines  have  generally  been  worked  down- 
wards by  means  of  irregular  shafts  from  the  outcrop, 
and  now  tunnels  or  adits  are  being  driven  in  from  low 
levels  in  order  to  secure  natural  drainage  and  ventilation. 
This  is  the  present  condition  of  most  of  the  Peruvian 
silver  mines. 

Much  interesting  history,  ancient  and  modern,  attends 
these  mines.  They  have,  like  the  gold  mines,  been  the 
scene  of  toil  and  avarice  in  ages  past,  of  cruelty  and 
dishonesty ; of  bitter  sacrifices,  deferred  hopes  and  vain 
expectations  ; as  also  of  sudden  wealth — the  reward  of  toil, 
and  the  caprice  of  fortune. 

The  poor  Peruvian  native  miner  inspires  me  with 
interest  and  sympathy.  What  tales  he  unfolds  as  he 
accompanies  me  into  some  appalling  and  dismal  cavern 
in  the  bowels  of  the  mountain,  excavated  laboriously  with 
the  sweat  of  a past  generation,  where  our  flickering  light 
falls  faintly  upon  those  grim  subterranean  walls,  corridors, 
and  chambers,  and  the  dank  and  mouldy  smell  assails 
our  nostrils ! How  eagerly  he  points  out  this  or  that 
great  boya  or  chamber,  where  a vast  pocket  of  rich  ore 
was  encountered,  and  details  the  history  of  the  fortunate 
ones  who  found  it ! Driving  on  and  on  through  the  hard 
rock,  sacrificing,  perchance,  their  last  coin  to  perforate 
those  few  remaining  feet  of  rocky  wall  which  separated 
them  from  the  coveted  treasure  ; and  when  at  length  the 
miner’s  eager  chisel  and  practised  ear  detected  by  feel 
and  sound  the  proximity  of  the  valuable  mineral  mass, 
what  joy,  congratulations,  and  feasting  followed  thereon ! 
How  carefully  he  conducts  me  through  those  labyrinths 
and  across  those  dark  yawning  pits,  so  respectful  of  my 
appellations  of  ingles  and  ingeniero ! And  I reward  him 
by  the  interest  I display,  the  sympathetic  hearing  I give 


202 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


him,  treating  him  like  a fellow-miner,  far  more  than  in 
the  silver  coin  I put  into  his  horny  and  steel-galled  hand 
at  parting.  Poor  fellow ! he  hopes  I will  return  with 
money  and  powers  from  those  far-off  “ capitalists  ” of  my 
far-off  country  to  work  those  ancient  labyrinths  again ! 

Another  of  the  “noble”  metals  which  is  found  in  Peru 
is  quicksilver.  There  are  several  districts  where  this  is 
found  ; the  two  principal  ones  being  those  of  Huancavelica 
and  Chonta.  The  old  mines  of  Santa  Barbara,  at  Huan- 
cavelica, had  been  among  the  most  remarkable  in  the 
history  of  mining  in  the  whole  world.  Their  own  history 
would  alone  form  the  subject  of  a lengthy  theme.  They 
have  been  visited  and  described  by  such  savants  as  Bufon, 
Humboldt,  and  Raimondi,  as  well  as  numerous  engineers 
of  different  nationalities.  I have  spoken  of  my  visit  there 
in  another  chapter,  but  may  here  touch  lightly  upon  the 
history  of  Azogue  in  Peru,  as  quicksilver  is  termed  in 
Spanish.  This  word,  it  may  be  said  in  passing,  is  of 
Arabic  derivation. 

Zapata  says : 

“ Quicksilver  mines  were  unknown  in  America  before 
the  Conquest,  and  some  years  passed  before  our  people 
discovered  them.  The  Indians  worked  them  in  antiquity, 
but  not  for  mercury.  They  sought  only  vermilion,  which 
is  nothing  else  but  the  sublimated  metal  on  the  walls  of 
the  mine,  and  which  was  used  by  the  women  of  the 
nobles  to  colour  their  faces.” 

The  mines  of  Huancavelica  appear  to  have  been 
discovered  in  1 566,  and  were,  as  stated  elsewhere, 
worked  on  a large  scale  for  long  periods,  producing 
as  much  as  670  tons  of  mercury  per  annum,  and 
rendering  possible  by  their  exports  of  the  liquid  metal 
the  treatment  of  silver  and  gold  ores  throughout  South 
America  and  Mexico.  This  mine  was  termed  by  the 
Viceroys  of  Peru  “one  of  the  greatest  marvels  of  the 
earth,”  and  it  afforded  considerable  revenue  to  the 
Court  of  Spain  for  many  years.  It  was  worked  with- 
out any  method,  excavating  the  cinnabar  ore  in  vast 


Mineral  Wealth 


203 


chambers  insecurely  supported,  and  at  length  fell  in, 
entombing  many  of  the  Indian  miners,  it  is  recorded. 

The  ores  were  treated  in  small  furnaces,  using  dried 
grass  as  fuel,  and  the  vapour  was  condensed  in  earthen 
pots  surrounded  by  water.  This  process  was  still  being 
carried  out  at  the  time  of  my  visit  in  December,  1904, 
and  a heavy  percentage  of  loss  is  sustained  in  the 
primitive  operation.  The  ore  is  contained  in  a vast 
lode  or  deposit  of  sandstone,  which  traverses  a limestone 
formation,  and  the  outcrop  and  old  workings  are  more 
than  2,000  feet  above  the  city  and  river  of  Huancavelica. 
My  project  for  reworking  these  valuable  mines  was  to 
drive  a tunnel  from  the  river-level,  upon  the  lode,  using 
water-power  and  mechanical  drills.  The  whole  immediate 
region  is  traversed  by  cinnabar  - bearing  lodes ; and  a 
Company  which  should  take  up  the  enterprise  of  their 
exploitation  might  later  be  in  a position  to  control  the 
world’s  quicksilver  market,  for  the  material  is  plentiful. 

At  Chonta  the  ores  were  subjected  to  a primitive 
form  of  “ pyritic  smelting  ” in  small  furnaces,  mixing 
iron  pyrites  with  a material  as  a combustible,  and 
firing  with  dried  grass.  I have  spoken  of  these  mines 
in  the  chapter  upon  the  Upper  Maranon. 

In  the  three  noble  metals,  therefore,  of  gold,  silver, 
and  mercury,  Peru  is  well  dowered.  But  most  of  the 
mines,  whether  partly  worked  or  entirely  virgin,  are  in 
a state  of  abandonment.  It  is  often  asked  why  this 
is  the  case ; if  such  wealth  is  really  contained  there, 
why  is  it  not  taken  profit  of?  And  the  reply  is  in 
the  history  of  the  country  and  the  character  of  the 
people.  The  wealthy  class,  living  formerly  in  luxury 
and  idleness  upon  the  easy  proceeds  of  the  nitrate  of 
Tarapaca,  until  they  lost  it,  troubled  little  about  minerals 
so  hard  to  win  as  gold  and  silver.  They  disliked  to 
leave  their  comfortable  capital,  and  to  venture  into  the 
inhospitable  fastnesses  of  the  Sierra.  Also,  the  frequent 
civil  wars  and  revolutions  prevented  the  spending  of 
money  on  enterprises  of  any  nature.  The  Peruvian 
character,  moreover,  does  not  lend  itself  to  the  working 


204  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

of  mines  in  the  form  of  joint-stock  companies.  Quarrel 
and  dissension  too  generally  arise  among  the  members 
of  such,  and  sometimes  bad  management  and  insufficient 
respect  for  the  use  of  the  general  fund.  In  addition  to 
this,  the  roads  and  trails  are  difficult,  and  freighting 
expensive.  So  the  Englishman,  the  American,  and  the 
Frenchman  come  in  and  benefit  by  this  mineral  wealth. 

Here,  then,  are  these  numerous  mines,  holding  untold 
wealth.  They  have  been  the  scene  of  toil  and  greed, 
and  cruelty  in  the  past ; let  us  hope  that  they  will  not 
be  the  subject  of  avarice  and  iniquity  in  the  future. 
For  it  is  a remarkable  thing  that  the  crystallisation  of 
mineral  matter  below  the  surface  of  kind  Mother  Earth 
seems  to  call  forth  the  evil  qualities  of  mankind  more 
than  anything  else  contained  within  her  exhaustless 
Cornucopia.  The  task-masters  and  evil-doers  of  a by- 
gone age  have  given  place  to  the  operators,  promoters, 
capitalists  and  stock  exchange  gamblers  of  to-day,  whilst 
the  adventurous  filibuster  of  the  past  seems  to  be  succeeded 
by  the  business  buccaneer  of  the  present  Fortunately, 
however,  we  may  at  least  congratulate  ourselves  that 
disinterested  Science  and  Progress  attend  us  in  our 
winning  of  the  noble  metals,  as  times  goes  on. 


CHAPTER  XIX 


MINERAL  WEALTH — Continued 

Among  the  base  metals  which  will  now  form  a source  of 
industry  in  Peru  is  copper.  The  present  demand  and  high 
price  throughout  the  manufacturing  world  has  stimulated 
the  search  for  this  metal,  and  some  good  copper-bearing 
regions  have  been  taken  up.  So  far,  the  mines  of  any 
importance  are  few,  but  this  is  largely  due  to  lack  of 
exploration  rather  than  paucity  of  the  material. 

The  principal  region  is  that  of  Cerro  de  Pasco,  the 
famous  old  silver  mines  where  the  American  Company 
which  purchased  them  has  erected  machinery  capable  of 
smelting,  it  is  stated,  1,000  tons  of  copper  ore  per  day.  The 
ores  contain  io  per  cent.,  upwards,  of  copper  — generally 
being  much  richer  — and  the  mines  have  been  character- 
ised by  reliable  English  and  American  authorities  as  being 
among  the  largest  copper  deposits  in  the  world.  The 
region  is  exceedingly  high  and  bleak,  its  elevation  above 
sea-level  being  more  than  14,000  feet.  The  European 
and  North  American  finds  life  exceedingly  trying  at  such 
altitudes,  and  a constant  change  of  employees  is  found  to 
be  resultant  upon  enterprises  here.  The  altitude  and 
rarefaction  of  the  air,  also,  give  rise  to  certain  difficulties 
in  the  smelting,  and,  naturally,  mining  labour  has  to  be 
recruited  from  among  the  indigenes  of  the  Cordillera  alone. 
In  spite,  however,  of  these  matters,  successful  operations 
are  to  be  expected,  for,  really,  science  and  energy  backed 
by  money,  can  overcome  all  these  matters. 

This  rich  silver-  and  copper  - bearing  district  of  Cerro 
de  Pasco  is  within  a species  of  depression  surrounded  by 
the  hills  which  form  the  “knot”  of  Pasco,  one  of  the 

205 


206 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


main  culminating  points  of  the  Andes ; and  the  great 
ore  deposits  are  described  as  a tertiary  formation  within 
cretaceous  rocks.  There  are  other  smaller  examples  of 
this  formation  in  Peru. 

Not  far  away  also  are  numerous  regions  with  copper- 
bearing lodes,  such  as  Yauli,  Morococha,  Huayllay,  etc., 
all  of  which  are  beginning  to  come  forward  as  producers  of 
copper. 

These  copper  mines  of  Cerro  de  Pasco  furnish  an 
example  such  as  have  often  occurred  throughout  history, 
of  mines  being  the  cause  of  new  influences  and  conditions 
in  the  life  of  a community.  The  North  American  spirit 
of  enterprise  and  energy  is  having  a marked  effect  on 
that  immediate  region.  Railways,  furnaces,  and  electric 
appliances  are  taking  the  place  of  pack-mules,  arrastras, 
and  other  primitive  methods,  and  wages  are  increased  in 
accordance  with  the  demand  for  more  labour.  These 
adjuncts  of  mechanical  science  are,  as  ever,  accompanied 
by  less  desirable  matters,  and  the  Anglo-Saxons  from  the 
country  of  “big  oaths  and  overalls”  will  certainly  not  yet 
be  a refining  element  in  the  community.  They  will  stamp 
certain  conditions  of  energy,  higher  wages,  better  food  and 
living,  improved  mechanical  methods  and  other  desirable 
matters  upon  the  character  of  the  Peruvian  miner  of  that 
region ; but  they  will  also  give  some  of  their  unlovable 
qualities  of  business  cruelty,  business  dishonesty,  lack  of 
politeness  and  consideration  for  others,  which  mark  them, 
and  which  seem  to  be  an  inevitable  adjunct  of  business 
enterprise.  Possibly  the  North  American  in  Peru  will 
learn  something  of  polished  social  treatment  from  the 
Peruvians,  as  he  has  in  similar  situations  in  Mexico.  The 
Peruvians,  like  the  Mexicans,  do  not  like  the  Americans, 
but  they  like  American  gold ! On  the  whole,  good  will 
probably  result  from  the  contact  of  the  two  races. 

These  great  Cerro  de  Pasco  mines,  upon  which  the 
North  Americans  have  spent,  it  is  stated,  some  fourteen 
million  dollars  in  purchase  and  equipment,  and  which  may 
become  the  largest  copper  producers  in  the  world,  might 
have  been  British,  but  British  enterprise  was  too  slow  and 


Co  A I . Si  KATA  ON  THU  PACIFIC  L'oAIT. 


Mineral  Wealth 


207 


cautious,  and  lost  the  opportunity  in  its  preliminary  stage. 
Copper  exists,  however,  in  many  of  the  mining  regions 
of  the  Peruvian  Andes,  and  further  exploration  will 
certainly  disclose  new  sources  of  the  metal.  Some  of 
these  regions  are  Moquegua,  Cuzco,  Andahuaylas,  lea, 
Huancavelica,  Huancayo,  Yauli,  Chimbote,  Cajamarca, 
etc.  There  are  several  oficinas  which  produce  copper 
mattes ; that  of  main  importance  being  the  Casapalca 
smelting  works  on  the  Oroya  railway.  The  export  of 
copper  from  Peru  in  1900  was  valued  at  only  £620,000, 
and  in  1904  £'400,000,  a diminution  due  to  the  stopping 
of  the  Cerro  de  Pasco  output  pending  completion  of  the 
plant.  The  copper  ores  of  Peru  are  largely  tetrahedrites, 
grey  copper  ore,  and  chalcopyrites.  They  generally 
carry  gold  and  silver  in  combination. 

Lead  is  one  of  the  most  plentiful  of  the  metals  found 
in  Peru — principally  as  galena — and  bearing  high  value  in 
silver.  All  the  regions  mentioned  under  the  description 
of  that  metal  are  equally  lead-bearing.  The  heavy  cost 
of  freight  has  prevented  the  export  of  lead,  so  far.  Iron 
is  found  in  several  regions,  but  no  attention  has  been 
given  to  it,  as  freight  costs  would  be  heavy  in  bringing 
the  ore  to  the  coast.  The  ore  of  zinc  is  a plentiful 
metal.  Graphite,  molybdenite,  wolfram,  nickel,  cobalt, 
bismuth,  magnesia  exist,  and  will  doubtless  be  worked 
in  the  future.  Salt,  sulphur,  mica,  borax,  are  very  plenti- 
ful in  certain  regions,  and  coal  and  petroleum  are  valu- 
able products.  As  regards  coal,  it  is  remarkable  how  little 
knowledge  of  the  occurrence  of  this  exists  : even  the  most 
recent  Encyclopaedias  stating  that  coal  is  scarcely  found 
in  South  America.  The  coal  deposits  of  Peru  are  one  of 
the  country’s  most  valuable  assets,  and  if  they  have  not 
been  much  worked  so  far,  it  is  due  to  lack  of  means  of 
transport  to  the  coast ; and  imported  coal  is  at  present 
placed  in  Peruvian  ports  at  a less  cost  than  the  domestic 
product,  notwithstanding  its  abundance.  But  this  will 
doubtless  be  obviated  later  on,  and,  in  addition,  some  coal 
deposits  exist  in  Peru  right  upon  the  sea-coast,  or  in  near 
proximity  thereto.  The  varying  classes  of  coal  include 


•208 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


pure  anthracites,  bituminous  coals,  and  lignites.  The  coal 
seams  generally  outcrop,  and  are  often  strong  and  of  great 
extent.  In  one  region  a report  calculates  400,000,000 
tons  of  good  coal  “in  sight” — that  is,  more  or  less  ex- 
posed by  upheaval  and  topographical  formation.  These 
coal  seams  are  often  workable  by  means  of  horizontal 
galleries  from  daylight,  and  sometimes  by  open  quarrying. 
I have  seen  in  some  of  the  interior  villages  anthracite 
used  in  kitchen  hearths,  burning  night  and  day,  without 
chimneys,  as  the  material  gave  forth  no  flame  or  smoke. 
To  enumerate  the  coal-bearing  districts  of  Peru  would  be 
to  give  a list  of  almost  all  the  regions  of  the  country, 
but  a few  of  the  better  known  may  be  mentioned,  as : 
Cerro  de  Pasco,  Yauyos,  Huarochiri,  Huancayo,  Huallanca, 
Hualgayoc,  Otuzco,  Huaylas,  Cajatambo,  Huari,  Islay, 
Huamachuco,  Pacasmayo,  Pisco,  and  a host  of  others. 
First-class  coke  is  produced  near  Cerro  de  Pasco,  and 
used  for  smelting.  The  anthracite  has  also  been  success- 
fully employed  in  water-jacket  copper-smelting  furnaces 
in  other  parts  of  the  country.  The  number  of  coal-bear- 
ing mining  claims  registered  in  the  Government  list  of 
1905  was  3,288,  but  the  industry  of  coal  mining  is  in 
its  infancy,  the  production  being  only  50,000  or  60,000 
tons  per  annum. 

Sulphur  is  found  almost  commercially  pure  near  the 
volcanoes  of  the  south,  and  in  the  north  the  great  desert 
of  Sechura  has  formed  the  basis  of  a business  for  treat- 
ing and  refining  sulphur,  which  is  there  found  in  great 
abundance.  This  sulphur  is  about  50  per  cent.  pure. 

The  production  of  petroleum  is  becoming  an  im- 
portant industry  in  Peru.  This  is  found  principally 
in  two  regions  — that  near  Lake  Titicaca,  and  that  at 
Tumbez — the  latter  on  the  coast  in  the  northern  part  of 
Peru.  There  are  several  Companies  engaged  in  the  work 
of  extracting  the  oil,  principally  organised  with  British 
capital.  The  output  of  these  enterprises,  in  crude 
petroleum,  kerosine,  and  gasoline  for  the  year  1904, 
represented  a value  of  about  ;£  150,000.  The  conditions 
for  boring  and  extraction  are  favourable,  and  the  deepest 


Mineral  Wealth 


209 


well  is  1,700  feet  deep.  A good  deal  of  the  product  is 
used  as  fuel  on  the  locomotives  and  elsewhere,  on  the 
west  coast  of  South  America. 

It  is  seen,  therefore,  that  a very  wide  range  of  minerals 
exist  in  Peru,  and  there  is  consequently  ample  field  for 
industries  connected  therewith.  The  mining  laws  are,  on 
the  whole,  good,  with  some  defects  which  will  probably 
be  remedied  in  time.  Title  to  property  is  held  direct 
from  the  Government,  and  is  ensured  in  perpetuity  as 
long  as  the  annual  tax  of  £3  per  claim  is  paid.  The 
size  of  the  claim,  or  pertenencia,  is  2 hectares,  of  100 
metres  square  each — equal  to  about  5 English  acres — for 
minerals  in  the  form  of  lodes.  For  minerals  in  deposits, 
as  coal,  alluvial  gold,  etc.,  the  claim  is  twice  this  size, 
or  4 hectares — equal  to  about  10  acres.  Borax,  nitrate, 
and  kindred  mineral  deposits  are  subject  to  other 
measurements. 

The  mining  enterprises  which  offer  most  attraction 
to  the  capitalist,  as  more  likely  to  give  commercial 
results  at  present,  are — Gold  mining,  both  quartz  lodes 
and  “ hydraulic  ” mines,  copper,  silver,  coal.  Capitalists 
and  their  agents  will  find  in  Peru  both  Government 
officials  and  inhabitants  who  will  welcome  them  in  their 
enterprises,  although  in  dealing  with  mine-owners  firm- 
ness and  circumspection  must  be  employed,  as  Peruvian 
ideas  are  different  to  British  in  the  conduct  of  business. 
Mining  matters,  whilst  they  arouse  the  spirit  of  enterprise 
of  mankind,  also  arouse  less  desirable  qualities,  as  I have 
averred  elsewhere,  and  these  are  not  confined  to  any 
community  or  race,  but  taint  the  methods  of  London, 
Paris,  or  New  York,  as  well  as  shifty  mine-owners  in 
Spanish  - American  Republics.  Personally,  I have  been 
defrauded  both  by  Peruvian  mine-owners  and  London 
promoters,  so  that  I am  in  a position  to  form  an 
impartial  judgment  as  to  race  honesty  in  mining  matters ! 


o 


CHAPTER  XX 


THE  INCA  CIVILISATION 

What  was  the  origin  of  the  Incas  and  of  their  civilisa- 
tion ; or,  rather,  what  was  the  origin  of  Man  in  America 
at  all? 

It  is  a subject  that  has  called  forth  much  study  and 
speculation,  and  on  the  part  of  many  and  varying  writers ; 
and  numerous  theories  have  been  advanced,  the  general 
one  for  the  existence  of  Man  in  Peru  giving  him  an 
Asiatic  origin. 

Why  should  we  endeavour  to  trace  all  mankind  to  a 
common  source?  The  tendency  to  do  so  is  innate  and 
strong — a species  of  “ Universalism  **  which  is  alluring. 
Yet,  if  we  accept  the  theory  of  evolution — and  who  after 
any  careful  consideration  of  Man  and  Nature  can  reject  it? 
— why  is  it  not  equally  rational  or  interesting  to  suppose 
that  man  became  generated  or  evolved  in  all,  or  several, 
of  the  continents  of  the  globe  independently,  and,  perhaps, 
contemporaneously : that  he  is  autochthonous  in  his  vary- 
ing habitat  ? There  have  been,  in  the  different  continents, 
varying  grades  of  intelligence,  whilst  we  seem  to  trace 
only  one  continent  and  region  as  being  the  real  cradle  of 
civilisation.  This  might  seem  to  bear  out  the  argument 
of  autochthonous  origin  for  men,  for  all  races  have  gener- 
ated, or  developed,  their  native  intelligence  to  some  extent, 
but  some  generated  the  highest,  due  to  circumstances 
of  superior  environment  or  other  accident  or  design  of 
Nature.  This  takes  nothing  away  from  the  grand  idea 
of  Man’s  being,  or  creation  : rather  it  shows  more  strongly 
the  sublime  principle — that  matter  and  idea  shall,  and 

210 


The  Inca  Civilisation  211 

must,  personify  themselves  and  materialise,  in  terms  of 
the  objective  world. 

If  we  dispose  thus,  then,  of  the  origin  of  indigenous 
man  in  America  we  may  still  ask  our  first  question  as  to 
the  origin  of  the  Incas,  unless  we  choose  to  consider  it 
replied  to  by  the  same  argument : of  natural  development. 
Be  that,  however,  as  it  may,  it  is  interesting  to  briefly 
mention  some  of  these  theories,  and  nothing  can  be  more 
just,  as  regards  Peru,  than  to  consider  the  opinions  of 
scientific  men  of  the  country  itself  upon  the  subject. 

In  the  Journal  of  the  Geographical  Society  of  Lima — 
Corresponding  Member  of  which  I have  the  honour  of 
being — a review  of  the  subject,  published  in  the  latter 
half  of  1903,  says: 

“ The  Spaniards,  on  arriving  in  the  new  world,  found  a 
country  different  in  every  respect  to  their  own,  and  since 
then  it  has  been  a matter  of  vast  interest  for  science  to  find 
out  from  where  the  people  of  America  really  came ; but 
the  confusion  of  ideas  and  the  difficulty — instead  of  dissi- 
pating— has  become  stronger.  One  writer  states  that  he 
had  found  the  language  of  Adam  in  a village  near  Titicaca 
— the  primitive  tongue  which  contains  the  roots  of  all 
modern  languages — and  that  this  place  was  the  real  cradle 
of  civilisation ! Other  writers  give  this  source,  respec- 
tively, as  Canaan,  Judea,  Egypt,  Carthage,  Norway,  Japan, 
China,  Syria,  Mesopotamia,  etc. ; and  all  their  claims  are 
more  or  less  based  upon  philosophical  and  scientific 
observations  and  deductions,  which  might  seem  to  prove 
each  and  every  assertion  were  it  not  that  the  claims  are 
conflicting.  And  the  only  satisfactory  result  is  to  suppose 
that  the  continent  had  been  visited  by  people  from  all 
these  sources,  who  have  left  some  influence  of  their 
characteristics  ; and  to  point  to  the  possibility  that  strange 
dramas  have  been  played  out,  of  conquests,  colonisations, 
and  changes,  upon  the  great  territories  of  this  continent  we 
call  ‘new,’  which  are  hidden  from  our  knowledge  of  the 
world’s  history.” 

As  is  natural,  a more  or  less  miraculous  founding  of 
the  Incas,  their  dynasty  and  Capital,  was  handed  down 
by  their  descendants,  and  imparted  to  the  first  European 
arrivals  in  Peru.  This  miraculous  origin  seems  ever  to 


212 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


be  a part  of  man's  history  beyond  where  memory  permits 
us  to  establish  fact  and  law.  As  regards  Peru,  its  legends 
and  histories,  attributes  and  conditions  are  well  set  forth 
by  the  many  writers  on  the  subject,  from  Sarmiento  and 
Garcilasso  to  Prescott  and  Markham.  I shall  not  refer 
much  to  these  famous  authors,  as  I rather  prefer  to 
translate  from  Peruvian  writers,  who  have  not  much 
been  heard  of,  perhaps  — and  to  give  the  result  of  my 
own  observations  and  travel,  which  latter  I may  modestly 
claim  have  been  somewhat  extensive  as  regards,  at  least, 
the  present  physical  characteristics  of  the  country. 

I shall  translate,  among  others,  from  the  writings  of 
Eusebio  Zapata,  a Peruvian  man  of  science  and  letters, 
written  in  1761.  This  interesting  volume  was  given  me 
in  Lima,  in  March  1906,  by  Seftor  Ricardo  Palma,  a 
well-known  Peruvian  writer,  by  whom  it  was  acquired 
in  manuscript  form  in  Madrid,  in  1893,  being  a copy 
of  the  work  presented  to  Carlos  III.,  King  of  Spain,  in 
1761,  by  its  author.  I do  not  think  any  writings  have 
appeared  in  English  from  this  source,  or  indeed  in 
Spanish.  He  says  : 

“The  Empire  of  Peru,  as  far  as  the  account  of  the 
knowledge  recorded  by  the  Quipos  goes,  was  monarchical 
in  its  principles,  governed  by  cunuas,  who  were  the 
heads  of  one  or  many  communities.  The  land  had  as 
many  lords  as  there  were  towns  and  communities,  and 
each  was  independent  of  the  other." 

It  must  be  here  recollected  that  the  Quipos  were  the 
Inca  mnemonic  archives,  in  the  form  of  knotted  cords 
of  various  colours  — the  only  system  of  record  the 
Incas  possessed,  as  writing  or  hieroglyphic  representa- 
tions seem  to  have  been  unknown  to  them. 

“ The  many  conflicting  interests  caused  war  to  be 
made  by  these  different  chiefs  upon  each  other,  and 
they  committed  the  greatest  atrocities  that  ignorance 
and  malice  could  invent  Submerged  in  this  barbarous 
condition  were  the  inhabitants  of  these  regions  when 
Mama  - Huaco,  a wise  woman,  bethought  herself  of 


The  Inca  Civilisation 


213 


civilising  these  ferocious  people  ; making  rational  beings 
out  of  brutes  and  politicians  from  savages.  She  was 
pregnant,  and  feigned  to  have  conceived  by  the  Sun  ; 
and  she  gave  birth  to  a son  so  beautiful  as  had  never 
been  known  there,  presently  hiding  him  in  the  darkest 
cave  of  Tia-Guanaco.” 

This  place,  I must  explain,  is  the  island  in  Lake 
Titicaca,  which  was  the  cradle  of  the  Inca  race  and 
civilisation,  and  where  are  found  some  of  the  marvellous 
old  buildings  and  monoliths  which  they  erected. 

“ As  soon  as  the  child  was  a few  years  old,  she 
exposed  him  on  the  summit  of  a hill,  dressed  in  ear- 
rings and  sandals  of  gold,  and  prostrating  herself,  in 
company  with  her  daughter,  Pilco  - Sifa,  before  him, 
adored  him  as  the  Supreme  King  and  Lord  of  that 
country.” 

Here,  it  may  be  noted  in  passing,  are  incidents  not 
unlike  some  in  the  Christian  Bible. 

“ The  Indians,  who  from  the  slopes  of  the  adjacent 
hill  witnessed  this  performance,  wished  to  learn  its 
meaning,  and  were  informed  by  the  mother  and 
daughter  that  the  child  was  a son  of  the  Sun ; upon 
hearing  which  they  also  fell  down  and  worshipped 
him,  acclaiming  him  as  the  Inca  and  their  sovereign. 
The  news  went  forth  throughout  the  region  around 
Titicaca,  and  to  the  most  remote  provinces,  that  the 
Sun  had  sent  his  son  in  order  that  he  might  govern 
them. 

“Thousands  of  Indians  congregated,  and,  assured  of 
the  perfection  of  the  young  child,  did  not  doubt  that 
he  was  a son  of  heaven ; and  acknowledging  him  as 
the  son  of  the  orb  which  they  worshipped,  they  called 
him  ‘ Manco  - Capac,’  which,  being  interpreted,  means, 
‘ Almighty  Child  ’ ; and  ‘ Huac  - Chacuyac/  or  ‘ Lover 
of  the  Poor.’ 

“ The  child  grew  up  adorned  with  all  those  gifts  of  mind 
which  the  heavens  concede  to  those  destined  for  vast 
enterprises.  He  was  exceedingly  wise  and  prudent,  as 
he  had  been  schooled  by  his  mother,  the  great  heroine 
Mama-Huaco.  Before  using  the  rights  and  power  of  his 
sovereignty  he  created  the  laws  of  his  Empire.  The  first 


214 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


of  these  was  the  cult  of  the  sun  as  the  Supreme  Deity  or 
life-giver,  and  for  this  purpose  he  reared  temples,  which 
were  known  as  Huacas,  which  signifies  prayer,  or  grief. 
He  established  the  sacrifices  of  animals,  but  the  sacrifice  of 
human  blood  was  forbidden  under  the  severest  penalties.” 

The  Inca,  it  is  generally  stated,  never  permitted 
human  sacrifice,  nor  cannibalism.  They  were  guided 
strictly  by  the  laws  of  Nature,  say  various  writers. 

“ Having  ordained  the  religious  cult,  he  imposed  the 
laws  which  were  to  be  observed  regarding  the  succession 
to  the  throne.  The  first-born  were  to  be  called  Inca , and 
they  were  always  to  marry  their  own  sister,  who  was  to 
be  called  Coy  a.  Any  son  bom  of  another  woman  was  to 
be  considered  illegitimate ; and  the  object  of  this  was  to 
prevent  the  decadence  of  the  house  by  intermarriages. 
This  custom  and  principle  was  observed  inviolate  from 
the  first  monarch  to  the  last. 

‘‘It  was  also  ordained  that  the  first-born  should  not 
inherit  his  father’s  riches,  but  that  these  should  be  divided 
among  the  royal  family  and  the  temples.  Details  of 
royal  dress  were  arranged,  and  ordered  to  be  observed, 
and  an  exclusive  language  was  to  be  used  by  the  royal 
family. 

“ After  having  established  these  laws  he  disposed  those 
which  were  to  be  kept  by  the  people.  He  ordered  as 
the  first  of  these  that  * they  should  love  one  another.’ 
Polygamy  was  made  illegal,  and  also  marriage  at  a less 
age  than  twenty.  Marriage  was  only  to  be  with  women 
of  the  same  lineage.  The  death  penalty  was  dealt  out 
to  robbers,  murderers,  sodomists,  adulterers,  and  liars.” 

Zapata  here  quotes  several  Spanish  writers,  who 
express  their  admiration  and  approbation  of  these  laws, 
and  their  surprise  that  such  should  have  been  instituted 
by  a barbarous  nation. 

“ Manco-Capac  married  his  sister  Mama-Ocllo-Huaco, 
who  was  the  first  to  have  the  title  of  Coya , or  Empress. 
She  devoted  herself  to  teaching  the  Indian  women  the 
arts  of  spinning  and  weaving  the  fine  wool  with  which 
the  country  abounded,  whilst  Manco  occupied  himself 
with  giving  the  people  laws  of  agriculture.  The  just 
fruits  of  all  work  these  monarchs  endeavoured,  by  a 


The  Inca  Civilisation 


215 


system  of  economical  government,  to  distribute  to  the 
enjoyment  of  all ; and  the  Indians  of  the  country,  seeing 
the  justice  and  order  of  this  regime , continued  in  their 
belief  that  these  were  the  children  of  the  Sun  ; and  the 
vassals  of  the  new  dominion  increased  rapidly. 

“ Becoming  too  numerous  for  the  island  of  Tia- 
Guanaco,  the  court  and  people  passed  to  Cuzco,  making 
this  the  Capital  and  centre  of  the  Empire.  Upon  dying, 
Manco  charged  his  descendants  to  continue  the  enforce- 
ment of  the  good  laws  he  had  inaugurated,  and  exhorted 
them  to  extend  the  boundaries  of  the  Empire  to  the 
regions  most  remote.” 


His  successors  followed  these  mandates,  and  each  one 
enlarged  the  dominion,  until,  in  the  zenith  of  its  power, 
it  embraced  territory  2,000  leagues  in  length,  when  de- 
cadence set  in,  after  a total  existence  of  more  than  five 
hundred  years. 

The  thirteen  Incas  and  their  respective  Coyas,  from 
Manco  - Capac  to  Huascar  and  Atahualpa,  include  the 
names  of  all  those  famous  in  the  history  of  that  time,  all 
of  which  flourished  before  the  advent  of  Pizarro  and  his 
Spaniards.  At  that  time  the  Empire  was  divided  by 
rival  claimants  to  the  throne,  as  the  last  Inca  seems  to 
have  left  no  truly  legitimate  descendant.  This  seems  to 
have  been  the  signal  for  its  downfall. 

Such  is  the  description  given  by  Zapata,  and  though 
it  differs  somewhat  from  other  historians,  it  is  perhaps 
equally  acceptable.  The  first  Inca  — Manco  - Capac — 
seems  to  have  flourished  at  the  end  of  the  eleventh  or 
the  beginning  of  the  twelfth  century  of  the  Christian  era. 
One  of  the  most  famous  of  the  Inca  — if  such  he  truly 
were — was  Atahualpa,  disputant  with  Huascar  for  the 
throne,  and  who  was  traitorously  murdered  by  the 
Spaniards.  His  fate  reminds  us  of  that  of  the  unfor- 
tunate Guatemoc,  of  Mexico,  who  was  also  murdered  by 
the  Spaniards  for  the  recovery  of  his  gold. 

It  is  contended  by  many  writers  that  there  was  a pre- 
Inca  period,  of  a superior  and  probably  foreign  race,  and 
that  the  Incas  learnt  their  building  and  other  arts  from 
them.  Recent  investigators  have  endeavoured  to  prove 


216 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


this,  after  examination  of  the  Inca  ruins  and  the  Huacas , 
or  old  burial-places.  I will  not  pretend  to  dispute  this,  for 
my  part,  for  to  speak  with  authority  would  require  more 
study  of  the  matter,  and  more  knowledge  of  such  subjects 
than  1 have  had  time  or  opportunity  to  acquire.  But  1 
merely  in  passing  make  the  observations  that  the  theory 
and  distinction  seems  rather  a fine  or  fanciful  one,  and 
must  be  regarded  as  “ not  proven.”  Of  course  there  were 
numerous  warring  tribes  pre-existing,  who  were  builders  of 
rude  structures. 

According  to  the  foregoing  history  of  Zapata  it  seems 
that  Manco,  or  his  mother,  was  simply  a superior  unit  of  a 
race  which  separated  itself  from  the  bulk  and  set  itself  up, 
following  the  dictates  of  a natural  aristocratic  organism  of 
mind  and  body,  and  the  rest  followed  naturally.  It  is,  in 
effect,  an  everyday  process  among  any  nation,  civilised  or 
barbarian,  that  individuals  so  separate  themselves  by  some 
natural  effect  of  concentration,  when,  if  they  were  enabled 
to  give  full  play  to  their  ideas  and  actions,  they  acquire  a 
position  above  the  common  bulk,  and  in  the  lapse  of  time 
fable  envelops  them. 

As  regards  the  theory  of  pre-Inca  occupation  of  the 
country  and  their  supposed  temples,  I translate  the  follow- 
ing from  an  article  by  Dr  Pablo  Patron  of  Lima,  one  of 
the  most  eminent  Peruvian  students  and  writers,  whose 
words  arc  worthy  of  all  consideration  and  weight  The 
article  was  read  at  the  Congress  of  Americanists  at 
Stuttgart,  in  August,  1904.  He  says: 

" I do  not  think  that  there  has  been  in  Peru,  in 
primitive  times,  any  special  race  different  from  the  actual 
race,  constructors  of  Cyclopean  works.  All  these  works 
which  exist  in  Peru  have  been  made  by  the  Aymaracs 
and  Qucchuas  during  the  time  of  their  greatest  culture. 
The  most  notable  of  these,  those  of  Tiahuanako,  prove  it 
The  ruins  which  we  contemplate  to-day  are  those  of  the 
temple  reared  by  the  Aymaracs  in  honour  of  Huirakocha, 
in  remembrance  of  the  creation  of  the  world  by  him, 
according  to  their  cosmogenical  beliefs,  in  I-ake  Titikaka. 
It  is  not  necessary  to  have  recourse  to  indirect  arguments 
to  demonstrate  this.  On  the  monolithic  portal  of  Akapana 


Lake  Titicaca:  Temple  of  Viracocha. 


but  6. 


The  Inca  Civilisation 


217 


Huirakocha  is  shown  in  the  centre  with  a fish  having  a 
human  face  sculptured  on  his  bust,  this  supreme  God  of 
the  Andeans  being  the  ‘Abyss  of  the  Waters,’  as  Ea 
was  among  the  Chaldeans.  Later,  Huirakocha  was 
confounded  with  the  tempest.  Moreover,  the  name  of 
Huirakocha  is  sculptured  repeatedly  upon  the  same 
portal  according  to  the  iconographic  system  of  writing 
general  to  America.” 

It  is  interesting  to  compare  the  above  with  statements 
relating  to  the  megalithic  structures  and  hieroglyphics 
found  on  Easter  Island,  2,400  miles  westward  of  the 
South  American  coast.  Have  these  structures  anything 
in  common  with  those  of  Peru  ? Some  writers  endeavour 
to  trace  a connection  between  these  remains  and  the 
Inca  and  Aymara  civilisation  of  the  Andes.1  I received 
from  the  Admiralty  an  extract  from  the  log  of  H.M.S. 
Cajnbrian , which,  with  the  Flora , visited  Easter  Island 
in  July  1906 — giving  an  interesting  description  of  that 
place.  An  account  was  also  published  in  the  Press , 
recently  written  by  a member  of  that  expedition  ; and 
it  will  be  of  interest  to  reproduce  some  of  the  ideas  given 
there,  as  bearing  upon  a possible  connection  between  the 
two  matters.  The  account  says: 

“ Tradition  tells  that  they  (the  prehistoric  settlers  of 
Easter  Island)  came  in  two  canoes,  their  king,  Hotu 
Metua  (Prolific  Father)  in  the  one,  and  their  queen  in 
the  other;  that  they  found  this  island  which  they  called 
Te  pito  fenua  (‘  the  land  in  the  midst  of  the  sea  ’),  and  that 
here  they  settled  and  made  their  homes.  There  are  the 
hieroglyphics  chiselled  on  the  faces  of  the  tombs  and  on 
the  crater  walls ; line  upon  line  of  curiously-carved  shapes 
and  symbols,  to  which,  alas  ! there  is  no  key.  The  shape 
of  a fish  appears  most  constantly,  and  coupling  this  with 
the  conspicuous  sea  face  of  the  papooka,  it  may  be  that 
this  people,  wafted  across  the  ocean  to  their  island  home, 
held  sacred  some  finny  monster  of  the  deep.  Probably, 
if  one  could  but  read  the  tale  written  on  these  stones,  then 
indeed  might  the  veil  be  lifted  from  many  a mystery 
which  surrounds  the  peoples  of  the  Andes.  These  carvings 


1 Man,  for  January  1904. 


218 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


of  Rapa  Nui  bear  a remarkable  resemblance  to  those  of 
the  Aymara,  an  ancient  race  of  Peru.” 

But  it  is  with  Egypt,  perhaps,  that  an  origin  is  most 
commonly  traced,  and  various  points  of  similarity  are 
advanced  to  prove  a connection  between  Peru  and  Egypt, 
among  them  being : the  cult  of  the  sun,  and  the  symbol 
of  the  serpent ; the  construction  of  hydraulic  works,  and 
the  encouragement  and  initiative  given  to  agriculture  by 
reigning  monarchs  ; the  use  of  copper  tools,  tempered  in 
a special  manner ; the  working  and  transport  of  monoliths 
by  unknown  methods ; the  tendency  to  pyramidal  form  in 
edifices;  the  tombs  and  mummies  — the  embalsaming  of 
the  dead  ; the  rafts  or  junks  of  Lake  Titicaca,  said  to  be 
similar  to  those  figured  on  the  tomb  of  Ramesis  III. ; and 
other  matters  real  or  fanciful. 

As  to  the  true  descendants  of  the  Incas  there  appear  to 
be  none  remaining.  Zapata,  from  whom  I have  previously 
translated,  says : 

“There  is  not  known  in  Peru  to-day  (1767)  any  pure 
Indian,  formerly  descendent  of  the  monarchs  of  that 
Empire.  The  few  who  might  have  proved  this  origin  are 
already  Spanish  in  their  greater  part.  If  any  Indian  were 
to  pretend  to  any  genealogy  with  the  royal  house  it  would 
be  very  difficult  to  prove.” 

He  then  goes  on  to  show  that  intermarriage  has 
rendered  impossible  any  real  descendants,  and  further 
advises  M that  any  magistrate  should  punish  with  severity 
any  Spaniard  or  Indian  who,  proclaiming  himself  an  Inca, 
should  so  pretend  to  foment  rebellion  or  discontent  among 
the  people.” 

Many  of  the  Indians — the  Cholos  or  Quechuas — still 
believe  that  an  Inca  will  yet  return  and  establish  the  old 
Empire  again  ; and  truly  their  lot  was,  if  history  be  true, 
superior  during  that  old  r/gitue  than  under  the  present 
system  of  so-called  Republican  government,  which  seems 
unable  yet  to  come  really  into  touch  with  the  Indians. 
That,  however,  is  but  a dream,  and  the  future  of  the 
Indian  must  be  worked  out  in  accordance  with  the  modern 
development  of  the  continent  he  inhabits. 


The  Inca  Civilisation 


219 


Zapata  is  emphatic  in  his  conclusions  regarding  the 
descendants  of  the  Inca.  He  writes  : 

“ There  is  another  error  much  more  pernicious  than 
that  I have  refuted.  It  is  the  story  that  one  of  the  Incas 
of  Peru  retired  to  the  forests  of  the  Orinoco  and  populated 
those  extensive  regions.  This  fable  was  fomented  in  the 
accounts  of  the  Admiral  Raleigh,  in  the  years  1595  and 
1596,  who  reduced  to  ashes  the  cities  of  San  Joseph,  in  the 
island  of  Trinidad,  and  Cumana,  on  the  coast  of  Guayana, 
for  which,  at  the  solicitude  of  the  Emperor  of  Spain,  the 
Parliament  of  England,  under  various  pretexts,  ordered  his 
head  to  be  cut  off  in  Westminster,  on  29th  October,  1618. 
The  Inca  imagined  by  this  malicious  Admiral  was  not  of 
the  monarchs  of  Peru.  He  was  Ruminavi,  a general  of 
Atahualpa,  who,  having  traitorously  shed  the  legitimate 
blood  of  the  Inca  at  a banquet,  was  so  hated  by  the 
Indians  that  he  retired  to  the  Orinoco  forests,  where  he 
died,  devoured  by  wild  beasts.  I do  not  know  where 
Mr  Raleigh  discovered  this  thing  of  the  supposed  Inca  of 
the  Orinoco  ; probably  from  the  same  place  where  he  pro- 
duced the  foolish  prognostications  which  he  pretends,  with 
derision  of  Indians  and  Spaniards,  was  found  in  the  temple 
of  Cuzco,  in  favour  of  the  English,  who  well  repaid  him  the 
vanity  of  these  desires  which  had  been  forged  in  dreams 
and  frenziedly  written  upon  paper ! ” 

There  is  probably  more  prejudice  displayed,  however, 
than  impartial  rendering  of  history  in  some  of  the  state- 
ments of  Zapata,  and  I only  record  them  to  give  the  views 
of  a Spanish  Colonial  writer. 


CHAPTER  XXI 


THE  INCA  RUINS 

The  ruins  of  the  buildings  of  the  Inca  and  Aymard 
periods  are  encountered  in  almost  every  part  of  the 
great  territory  of  Peru,  to  say  nothing  of  parts  of 
Ecuador,  Bolivia,  and  Chile.  These  are  ruins  of  temples, 
of  fortresses,  of  castles,  of  dwelling-houses,  of  cities  and 
of  tombs,  mounds  and  pyramids,  as  also  of  bridges, 
aqueducts,  and  roads. 

As  far  as  they  are  concerned  structurally,  these  ruins 
may  be  divided  into  three  classes : — those  built  of  adobe 
or  sun-dried  earthen  bricks ; those  of  loose  blocks  of 
unhewn  stone,  with  or  without  murtar ; and  those  of  hewn 
or  worked  stone. 

The  buildings  of  the  first  kind  arc  generally  found 
upon  the  western  side  of  the  Andes — the  Pacific  or  coast- 
zone  ; and  this  was  probably  a result  of  the  climate — the 
rainless  region  which  permitted  the  use  of  such  material. 
It  is  remarkable  how  these,  which  arc  simply  structures 
of  dried  mud,  have  retained  their  form  throughout  the 
centuries.  Among  this  class  are  all  those  numerous  ruins 
of  temples  and  villages  found  at  different  points  nearly 
all  along  the  1,500  miles  of  Peruvian  coast -zone,  and 
include  Pachacamac,  near  Lima,  the  one-time  wonderful 
temple  dedicated  to  the  god  Viracocha — and  those  near 
Piura,  Chimbote,  Casma,  Pisco,  etc,  some  of  which  I 
describe  elsewhere.  The  stone  structures  are  found  on 
the  plateaux  and  the  Cordillera,  where  they  are  exposed 
to  the  heavy  rain  of  these  regions.  Those  built  of  un- 
shaped stone  are  exceedingly  numerous.  They  are  found 
all  over  these  vast  upper  regions;  they  crown  every  hill 

220 


Cl'*<»  1*a»«  or  mi  Pauci  or  Hi-ayha-Capac, 


The  Inca  Ruins 


221 


in  some  districts,  and  line  the  slopes  and  bottoms  of 
valleys.  The  material  consists  of  natural  blocks  of  lime- 
stone, quartzite,  or  granite,  unhewn  and  unshaped  just 
as  they  have  been  collected  from  the  talus  or  debris  of 
mountain  slopes,  or  dug  from  the  loose  strata  of  the  rock 
outcroppings.  The  buildings  take  the  form  of  castles  and 
villages,  which  appear  to  have  been  constructed  by  various 
tribes  as  though  for  protection  against  each  other’s  raids, 
as  I have  described  in  the  chapter  dealing  with  my 
journeys  on  the  Upper  Maranon.  Indeed,  to  my  mind, 
the  description  of  these  old  settlements — huge  human 
“ warrens  ” — strikingly  bear  out  the  statement  made  by 
the  historian,  which  I have  before  given,  that  “ the  land 
had  as  many  lords  as  there  were  towns  and  communities,” 
and  that,  “ the  conflicting  interests  caused  war  to  be  made 
by  the  different  chiefs.”  It  is  remarkable  how  the  most 
inaccessible  places  were  selected  often.  I have  seen  them 
on  the  most  precipitous  summits,  especially  in  the  Depart- 
ment of  Ancachs,  in  the  region  of  the  Upper  Maranon. 

The  hewn-stone  edifices — the  true  and  lasting  works 
of  art  of  those  people — are  much  less  plentiful,  as  is 
naturally  to  be  expected,  being,  as  they  are,  principally 
in  the  nature  of  palaces  and  temples.  The  remarkable 
characteristics  of  the  stone-work  are,  first,  the  excessive 
care  with  which  the  joints  were  fitted,  leaving  no  space 
between,  and  yet,  in  spite  of  this,  the  indifference  to 
horizontality  or  verticality  in  the  sides  of  each  block,  in 
some  cases. 

In  my  description  of  the  ruins  of  Huanuco  Viejo,  I 
have  given  diagrams  of  this  noticeable  feature  of  their 
stonemasons’  art ; and  it  is  also  shown  in  a remarkable 
way  in  some  of  the  views  of  the  edifices  of  Cuzco, 
especially  in  that  of  the  Palace  of  Huayna  Capac  and 
Pachacutec,  One  of  these  stones  goes  by  the  name  of 
Hatum-Rumi , and  forms  an  irregular  polygon  of  twelve 
entering  and  salient  angles.  Rumi  means  in  Quechua 
“ stone,”  and  Hatum  “ large.”  They  are  of  granite.  Not- 
withstanding the  many  varying  sides  and  angles  of  these 
stones  they  fit  perfectly  into  those  placed  against  them 


222 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


in  the  wall.  In  some  of  the  structures,  however,  this 
feature  does  not  exist ; the  blocks  are  cubical  in  form, 
with  horizontal  sides  and  square  corners,  and  are  simply 
placed  together  in  the  ordinary  way.  It  has  been  sug- 
gested that  these  are  of  later  date  than  the  former. 

The  other  remarkable  characteristics  of  some  of  these 
structures  is  that  the  blocks  are  great  monoliths.  These 
are  described  in  various  of  the  existing  books  upon  Peru, 
and  some  of  the  largest  are  stated  to  be  38  feet  long, 
18  wide,  and  6 thick. 

How  were  these  shaped,  brought  from  their  quarries, 
and  raised  into  position,  are  the  problems  which  occur 
to  the  observer,  as  they  have  occurred  regarding  the 
ruins  of  the  old  structures  of  Asia  and  Africa. 

The  most  remarkable  of  all  these  stone  buildings 
are  those  of  Titicaca,  and  those  of  Cuzco  and  its 
immediate  neighbourhood,  which  latter  city  was  the 
Capital,  and  centre  of  the  Empire.  These  palaces  of 
Huayna  Capac,  and  various  other  buildings,  including  the 
Temple  of  the  Sun,  are  situated  in  the  streets  of  the 
city  of  Cuzco,  and  in  some  cases  form  part  of  the  modem 
edifices.  Others,  near  at  hand,  are  the  remarkable  ruins 
of  the  fortress  of  Sacsaihuaman,  Ollantaitambo,  and 
those  of  Intihuatana — which  I speak  of  later. 

Zapata  says  of  these : 

“ Among  the  most  memorable  edifices  which  the 
antiquity  of  our  country  presents,  is  the  fortress  of 
Cuzco — a marvel  of  art.  This  great  castle  is  situated 
in  Sacsa-Huaman,  a high  hill  to  the  north  of  the  city, 
and  is  the  work  of  Pachacutec,  Emperor  IX.  of  Peru, 
who  spent  half  a century  in  its  construction.  It  is  more 
than  400  yards  long.  The  rows  of  stones  are  of  varying 
height,  and  so  well  united  that  no  mortar  is  seen.  In 
front  of  this  wall  the  slope  of  the  hill  continues,  and 
here,  in  this,  were  built  three  more  walls,  each  200  yards 
long.  The  stones  of  these  were  not  similar  to  the  first ; 
they  are  so  great  that  it  can  only  be  supposed  that  the 
Indians  understood  the  art  of  ‘melting’  them,  and  cast- 
ing them  in  moulds  of  that  size.  There  is  not  wanting 
those  who  have  attributed  to  diabolic  agency  the  artifice 
and  perfection  of  this  work.” 


Base  of  the  Palace  of  Ollanta. 


The  Inca  Ruins 


223 


Zapata,  therefore,  seems  also  to  hold  the  curious 
opinion  that  the  Indians  were  acquainted  with  some 
wonderful  method  of  softening  and  moulding  stone,  a 
belief  such  as  is  still  current  among  the  Indians  of  the 
present  day,  who  have  assured  me  often  that  this  was 
the  method  employed.  They  do  not  refer  to  the  making 
of  ordinary  concrete,  because  these  are  all  natural  stones. 
I have  spoken  of  this  in  the  account  of  the  ruins  of 
Huanuco  Viejo. 

Zapata  goes  on  to  describe  these  buildings  in  detail, 
with  their  subterranean  chambers,  and  stories  and  legends 
of  the  vast  quantities  of  treasure  in  the  form  of  gold 
which  they  contained.  He  speaks  also  of  the  enormous 
monolith  which  lies  near  the  fortress,  and  which  its 
artificers  had  not  been  able  to  carry  to  the  end  of  its 
destination.  This  stone  is  stated  to  be  jo  feet  long, 
3^  thick,  and  5 wide,  and  was  said  to  have  been 
brought  from  near  Quito,  500  leagues  away,  carried  by 
4,000  men.  The  fable  of  the  Indians  is  that  it  wept 
tears  of  blood  when  abandoned.  I think  that  a recent 
Peruvian  writer  has  found  that  this  stone  was  brought 
from  a quarry  very  much  nearer  : and  that  some  of  the 
monoliths  were  floated  into  place  before  the  drying-up 
of  the  lakes  there. 

Other  buildings  in  the  same  neighbourhood  Zapata 
also  describes,  and  speaks  of  stone  lintels  30  feet  long, 
15  wide,  and  6 thick  ; and  of  numerous  stone  images 
of  men  and  women,  the  former  with  cups  in  their  hands, 
the  latter  carrying  children.  He  quotes  from  other  writers 
who  suppose  that  these  remarkable  works  were  made  by 
some  former  unknown  race,  adding  that  in  his  opinion 
this  view  is  erroneous  ; that  the  absence  of  arches  or 
vaulting  precludes  the  probability  of  their  origin  being 
from  nations  of  the  other  hemisphere,  and  that  the  non- 
existence of  records  of  their  construction  is  doubtless 
due  to  the  fact  that  the  custodians  of  the  quipos — the 
archives  and  history  kept  by  the  system  of  coloured 
and  knotted  cords — had  died  before  their  records  could 
be  perpetuated  by  the  Spaniards.  He  also  instances 


224 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


their  use  of  copper  dowels  and  lack  of  knowlodge  of 
iron,  in  support  of  this.  Zapata  quotes  principally  from 
Pinelo,  Garcilasso,  Ulloa,  Pomanes,  Acosta,  Cieza,  Avalos, 
Herrera,  Gamboa,  and  other  Spanish  writers,  some  of 
whom,  he  states,  have  personally  seen  the  ruins ; and 
he  gives  their  words  in  the  original  text,  adding : “ I 
have  not  wished  to  copy  or  vary  them,  because  water 
is  always  clearer  at  its  source,  and  there  one  should 
drink,  rather  than  in  the  gutters  which  it  enriches.” 

I have  mentioned  in  a previous  chapter  the  ruins  of 
Intihuatana,  which  are  about  14  miles  from  Cuzco,  near 
the  river  Vilcanota ; and  I will  translate  from  an  article 
in  the  Journal  of  the  Geographical  Society  of  Lima, 
published  in  1904,  written  by  a Peruvian,  Seftor  Oyague, 
who  visited  the  ruins  recently.  He  says : 

“It  is  not  easy  to  get  there.  From  the  outside  of 
the  village  begins  a barrier  of  formidable  andcnes,  reaching 
to  the  summit  of  the  hill ; a vast  stairway  of  more  than 
forty  steps  of  4 to  6 feet  high,  and  now  covered  with 
thorny  brushwood.  From  the  principal  ruins  a magnifi- 
cent panorama  is  obtained  of  the  valley,  and  the  place 
is  essentially  a strategic  point.  Here  exists  a species 
of  semicircular  tower  united  by  stone  outworks  to  the 
other  edifices,  and  which  has  undoubtedly  been  the 
place  where  the  sentinels  lived.  Further  back  in  a 
small  depression  are  seen  the  buildings  which  surmount 
Intihuatana. 

“ This,  of  great  interest  archasologically,  is  a large 
rock,  unbroken,  square,  and  in  whose  centre  stands  up  a 
cylindrical  column,  worked  in  the  rock  itself,  but  now 
broken.  This  stone  is  enclosed  in  a circular  tower  with 
a single  entrance,  and  that  which  causes  most  surprise  is 
the  finish  of  the  stones  and  their  perfect  union,  without 
any  mortar. 

“ The  tower  was  an  astronomical  observatory,  where 
the  equinoxes  were  determined.  Around  it,  over  a large 
extension  of  ground,  are  numbers  of  halls,  corridors,  and 
remains  of  habitations,  all  part  of  a perfectly  conceived 
plan  — a fortress  well  defended.  The  abrupt  precipices 
which  surround  it  would  render  surprise  impossible,  and, 
moreover,  any  weak  point  is  protected  by  high  walls  of 
worked  and  polished  granite.  Upon  all  the  rocks  that 


The  Inca  Ruins 


225 


surround  the  ridge  run  roads  whose  colossal  andenes  rise 
from  below,  and  at  certain  distances  are  found  doors, 
passages,  stairs,  towers,  prisons,  and  habitations,  seemingly 
suspended  on  the  highest  summits,  and  in  places  where 
the  imagination  of  the  most  daring  builder  of  to-day  could 
scarcely  conceive  the  planting  of  an  edifice.  How  have 
these  monoliths  been  taken  up  to  these  situations  ? They 
have  not  been  manufactured  upon  the  spot,  but  were 
brought  from  distant  quarries. 

“ Somewhat  further  on  one  observes,  at  a great  height, 
sepulchres  excavated  in  the  rock  walls,  some  open,  others 
intact.  This  is  the  necropolis,  where,  doubtless,  thousands 
of  the  dead  repose,  having  escaped,  by  reason  of  their 
positions,  the  avarice  of  the  conquistadores. 

“ At  what  date  were  these  remarkable  works  erected  ? 
It  is  difficult  to  determine,  as  the  old  chronicles  are  silent 
in  this  respect,  but  it  was  probably  during  the  reign  of 
Pachacutec,  in  the  fourteenth  century.  Marta  Capac 
(twelfth  century)  inaugurated  the  era  of  the  great  edifices ; 
Huayna  Capac  (sixteenth  century)  terminated  it. 

“ We  now  see  what  Intihuatana  was : a fortress  and 
astronomical  observatory.  And,  indeed,  in  the  principal 
building  was  enclosed  the  sacred  rock,  where  the  vestiges 
of  the  broken  column  are  still  seen,  and  which  is  also 
described  by  Garcilaso  and  other  old  chroniclers,  and  was 
the  venerated  place  where  observations  for  the  determina- 
tion of  the  equinox  were  taken. 

“ The  rudimentary  knowledge  of  astronomical  science 
possessed  by  the  Incas  was  reduced  to  the  determination 
of  the  solstices  and  the  equinoxes.  They  determined  their 
year,  and  divided  it  into  twelve  months,  beginning  at  the 
December  solstice.  To  determine  these  epochs  they  used 
stone  columns,  richly  worked  and  covered  with  plates  of 
gold.  The  priests  charged  with  this  sanctuary  and  office 
were  accustomed  to  observe  the  shadow  of  the  column, 
at  the  approaching  day,  and  which  was  the  centre  of 
a great  circle  wherein  was  inscribed  a line  from  west  to 
east — which  experience  had  shown  them  how  to  place. 
By  means  of  the  shadow  of  the  column  upon  this  line 
they  were  enabled  to  announce  the  proper  day,  which 
was  celebrated  by  great  feasts ; and  the  throne  of  the 
sun  was  brought  and  placed  upon  the  column,  so  that 
the  sun  might  ‘ sit  down.’  From  this  is  derived  the  name 
of  Intihuatana,  meaning  ‘ the  Seat  of  the  Sun.’ 

“ These  astronomical  pillars,  many  of  which  were  in 
existence  both  in  Peru  and  Ecuador,  were  destroyed 

p 


22G  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

by  the  Spaniards,  who  considered  them  useless  and 
idolatrous.” 

The  writer  concludes,  deploring  the  ruin  into  which 
these  interesting  relics  have  fallen,  and  the  wanton 
destruction  which  takes  place  in  using  the  stones  for 
other  purposes;  and  draws  the  attention  of  the  Govern- 
ment to  the  necessity  for  their  preservation. 

It  would  require  a whole  volume  to  fully  describe  all 
the  old  ruins  of  structures  of  those  prehistoric  epochs. 
Indeed,  several  volumes  have  given  space  to  their  descrip- 
tion, such  as  the  well-known  works  of  Prescott,  Markham, 
Squires,  etc.,  and,  of  course,  the  old  Spanish  writers,  upon 
which  latter  all  Inca  history  is  based.  Many  of  these 
structures  lay  too  far  out  of  my  line  of  travel  to  permit 
me  to  observe  them,  although  I may  claim,  perhaps,  to 
have  travelled  more  extensively  in  Peru  as  a whole  than 
any  other  foreigner,  as  far  as  leagues  covered  are  concerned  ; 
and  the  numerous  remains  of  prehistoric  buildings  which 
I have  visited,  if  secondary  to  those  of  Cuzco  in  importance, 
are  nevertheless  of  much  interest,  and  permit  a somewhat 
comprehensive  view  of  the  whole  to  be  formed.  In  the 
following  chapter  I have  described  the  ruins  of  Huanco 
Viejo,  or  Old  Huanuco — sometimes  spelt  “ Guaneso,”  for 
“ G ” and  “ H ” in  Spanish  have  almost  similar  pronuncia- 
tion— and  also,  elsewhere,  the  Castle  of  Chavin,  and  other 
structures.  These  lie  to  the  north-west  of  Cuzco,  in  the 
Department  of  Ancachs,  about  400  miles  away.  They 
were  described  in  a paper  read  on  my  behalf  before  the 
Royal  Geographical  Society  in  January,  1905,  by  Sir 
Clements  Markham,  and  which  was  published  in  the 
Geographical  Journal.  A portion  of  this  has  been  repro- 
duced in  a previous  chapter.  No  account  of  these  ruins 
has  been  previously  published,  I believe,  in  any  work 
in  English,  or  indeed  in  any  other. 

The  Inca  and  Quechua  people  sepultured  their  dead, 
frequently,  as  mummies.  Very  extensive  cemeteries  are 
encountered,  both  in  the  Coast  and  the  Sierra  regions, 
and  are  known  as  huacas.  The  mummies  were  enclosed, 
often,  in  small  rooms,  or  vaults,  built  of  unhewn  stone ; 


The  Inca  Ruins 


227 


and  I have  observed  veritable  “ warrens  ” of  these  struc- 
tures on  the  hill-slopes  and  the  valleys.  In  the  valley  of 
the  Rimac,  on  the  line  of  the  Oroya  railway,  not  far 
from  Lima,  there  are  some  extensive  cemeteries  of  this 
nature.  Search  is  made  for  mummies,  sometimes,  by  the 
method  of  driving  a thin  steel  rod  into  the  ground  in 
spots  likely  to  contain  such,  when  the  diminished  resist- 
ance encountered  by  the  drill  shows  the  presence  of  the 
mummy.  Some  of  these  huacas , or  burial  - places,  are 
seen  strewn  with  mummy-cloths,  bones,  skulls,  and  other 
evidences  of  the  desecrating  ravages  of  man,  animals, 
or  the  elements. 

In  the  caves  in  the  limestone  or  quartzite  formation  of 
the  Sierra,  bones  and  mummies  are  also  encountered,  and 
generally  these  remains  are  reverenced  and  feared  by  the 
Cholos  of  these  regions.  “ Do  not  enter,  Senor,”  they  have 
said  to  me,  when  I desired  to  explore  the  depths  of  some 
lugubrious  grotto.  “ Some  evil  befalls  those  who  enter 
there,”  and  I have  been  obliged,  sometimes,  to  go  in  quite 
alone. 

Strange  and  weird  are  many  of  the  old  structures  which 
the  traveller  in  these  almost  unknown  regions  of  the  Sierra 
encounters.  Rude  towers  and  habitations,  fortresses  and 
defences  of  unhewn  stone,  piled  up  on  the  summits  of  hills, 
or  commanding  the  heads  and  passes  of  valleys.  At  night- 
fall, on  my  travels  there,  I have  slept  in  these  old  Inca 
structures,  sheltered  to  escape  the  pelting  rain  and  cold 
winds  of  the  uplands  ; and  I have  even  made  use  of  the 
kitchens  of  the  former  inhabitants — the  mysterious  “ Gen- 
tiles,” as  they  are  termed — and  my  men  have  cooked  our 
evening  meal  there.  Starting  from  amid  the  mists  on  grim 
escarpments  as  you  round  the  base  of  a hill,  or  stretching 
away  in  a golden  haze  among  great  areas  of  andenes , you 
behold  them,  uninhabited,  solitary,  grim.  And  at  night, 
as  you  lie  upon  your  cot,  looking  at  the  flickering  camp 
fire’s  flames,  and  listening  to  the  tales  and  folk-lore  of  your 
men,  as  in  a mixture  of  Spanish  and  Ouechua  they  recount 
to  you  strange  things,  the  Andean  wind  howls  mournfully 
past  and  whispers  among  those  old  places  where  man  once 


228 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


dwelt,  inhabited  now  only  by  mummies  and  bones,  and 
skulls.  Ha!  stir  up  the  fire,  Jose  or  David  or  Felice,  or 
one  of  you  ; roll  me  another  cigarette,  and  see  that  the 
mules  have  not  strayed  away ! 

There  they  remain,  then,  these  ruined  structures.  As 
for  some  of  them,  it  is  impossible  to  conjecture  what  their 
purpose  was — 

“ Temples,  baths,  or  halls  ? Pronounce  who  can, 

For  all  that  learning  reaped  from  her  research  hath  been 
That  these  are  walls  ! " 


CHAPTER  XXII 


THE  RUINS  OF  HUANUCO  VIEJO 

On  7th  February,  1904,  I made  a deviation  of  some  leagues 
from  my  route  to  the  Maranon,  on  purpose  to  examine,  as 
far  as  time  would  permit,  a group  of  extensive  ruins  of 
the  Inca  period,  known  as  Huanuco  Viejo. 

The  plain  upon  whose  western  verge  the  ruins  are 
situated  is  a remarkably  level  tableland,  whose  geological 
formation  appears  to  be  quartzite  and  limestone  con- 
glomerate, or  compact  gravel — or,  at  any  rate,  its  northern 
and  eastern  edges  show  as  such  ; and  the  hills  bounding 
those  sides  are  vast  cliffs  of  similar  material,  which  I had 
hoped  were  auriferous  deposits.  The  altitude  indicated  by 
my  aneroid  was  11,880  feet,  and  the  temperature  was  not 
so  cold  as  to  be  uncomfortable,  even  in  the  tent  at  night. 
Sleep  was,  however,  much  disturbed  from  the  necessity 
for  continual  vigilance  in  order  to  avoid  the  mules  being 
stolen  in  the  night.  The  plain  has  a bad  reputation  as  a 
resort  of  cattle-thieves  and  horse-thieves,  and  I was  after- 
wards congratulated  upon  not  having  lost  any  of  the 
animals  by  these  midnight  Indian  robbers.  My  method 
was  simple.  Apart  from  keeping  the  arrieros  awake,  at 
any  signs  of  fright  upon  the  part  of  the  mules — for  these 
generally  indicate  in  an  eloquent  manner  the  presence  of  a 
prowling  robber — 1 lifted  up  a corner  of  the  flap  of  the  tent 
nearest  my  cot,  and  discharged  a couple  of  revolver  shots 
into  the  night.  These  Indian  thieves  have  a wholesome 
dread  of  a pistol  ball,  and  the  method  proved  effective,  both 
here  and  elsewhere. 

On  the  following  morning  I started  out  early  to  examine 
the  ruins,  and  found  them  very  extensive.  Unfortunately, 
the  films  of  my  little  hand-camera  had  given  out,  and  it  was 

229 


230 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


not  possible  to  take  photographs,  but  the  sketches  which 
accompany  this  will  give  a very  fair  idea  of  the  archi- 
tectural features  of  the  ruins.  Dimensions  were  obtained 
by  pacing  and  compass  triangulation,  and  it  is  not  pre- 
tended that  they  are  more  than  approximate  except  where 
exact  measurements  were  made.  Some  of  the  sketches 
were  taken  on  mule-back,  and  all  were  made  as  faithfully 
as  circumstances  would  permit  All  these  were  published 
in  the  Royal  Geographical  Society’s  Journal  for  August, 
1905,  but  only  a few  appear  here. 

The  well-known  Peruvian  traveller  and  scientist  of  last 
century  — Raimondi  — visited  these  ruins,  and  in  one  of 
his  works  gives  a brief  description  and  a sketch  of  them. 
This  latter,  however,  is  by  no  means  faithful  to  the  original. 
My  friend,  Doctor  (of  laws)  Cisneros,  Chief  Justice  for 
the  Department  of  Ancachs,  and  who  was  Raimondi’s 
companion  in  his  travels  in  1870,  informed  me,  neverthe- 
less, that  they  took  careful  measurements  of  these  ruins, 
but  which  do  not  appear  to  have  been  published.  In 
the  work  before  mentioned  Raimondi  quotes  from  a 
previous  historian  (Garcilaso),  who  states  that 

“ In  March,  1533,  Hernando  Pizarro,  the  brother  of  the 
Conquistaiior  Francisco,  arrived  at  the  city  of  * Guaneso  * 
(or  Huanuco).  It  was  a casa  real , or  royal  palace,  built  of 
large  stones  very  skilfully  set,  and  was  so  important  in  the 
time  of  the  Inca  that  there  dwelt  there  continually  for  the 
service  of  the  Inca  more  than  30,000  Indians.” 

The  foregoing  quotation  I have  translated  from  the  Spanish 
of  Raimondi. 

The  sketches  and  descriptions  will  give  an  idea  of 
the  extent  of  the  principal  or  central  portion  of  the  city ; 
beyond,  nothing  remains  but  the  foundations  of  numerous 
habitations.  About  a mile  away,  however,  to  the  west* 
and  built  upon  the  limestone  hills  which  rise  from,  or 
rather  bound  the  plain,  are  the  foundations  and  streets 
and  walls  of  what  has  been  an  extensive  community. 
These  are  described  later. 

The  architectural  features  which  are  most  noteworthy 
arc  the  stone  doorways  to  the  palace,  and  the  castle  or 


Sketched  on  the  spot  by  the  Author. 


231 


The  Ruins  of  Huanuco  Viejo 

fortress.  I made  careful  measurements  of  one  of  these 
doorways,  and  the  illustration  shows  exactly  the  style 
of  architecture.  The  stones  which  form  this  part  of  the 
work  are  very  carefully  cut  and  fitted,  and  it  would  seem 
that  the  builders  have  made  up  in  laborious  care  and 
exactitude  what  they  possibly  lacked  in  skill  or  appliances. 
The  stones  have  been  worked,  it  is  presumed,  with  copper 
tools,  for  the  Incas  were  unacquainted,  it  is  generally 
stated,  with  the  use  of  iron.  The  joints  of  the  stones 
are  so  closely  fitted  that  a knife-blade  cannot  be  intro- 
duced, and  no  cement  or  binding  material  has  been  used, 
apparently.  The  bedding  is  not  necessarily  horizontal, 
nor  the  upright  joints  vertical,  the  stones  having  been 
cut  to  fit  each  other  regardless  of  uniformity.  Some  of 
these  stones  are  of  large  size,  as  the  lintels,  which  are 
monoliths  of  more  than  2 metres  in  length,  and  of  the 
whole  thickness  of  the  walls.  The  stones  which  form  the 
reveals  are  often  rebated  in  order  to  form  bond. 

The  walls  generally  are  about  90  centimetres  in 
thickness  ; the  stones  appear  to  have  been  set  in  place, 
and  the  next,  or  following  stone,  fitted  laboriously  to  its 
companion,  as  previously  stated.  Bond  is  formed  by 
stones  which  traverse  the  thickness  of  the  walls.  The 
carving  of  the  capitals,  like  most  Inca  carving,  is  rude, 
and  represents  either  a scroll  or  a species  of  lizard  or 
other  animal.  I have  sometimes  thought  that  the  Inca 
scroll  may  have  been  suggested  by  the  large  petrified 
ammonites,  so  common  in  the  limestone  formation  of  the 
Andes.  I have  spoken  of  these  fossils  in  another  part  of 
this  account.  Of  course,  the  carving  may  have  another 
signification,  connected  with  the  marine  emblem  of  the 
Incas,  as  in  Cuzco.  This  is  spoken  of  in  a former 
chapter. 

The  faces  of  the  stones  still  show  what  are  undoubtedly 
tool-marks,  for  the  hard  silicious  limestone  of  which  they 
are  composed  has  shown  no  alteration  under  the  action 
of  the  elements.  Rather,  it  has  acquired  with  age  a 
beautiful  faintish-red  tint,  and  a distinct  polish. 

I have  elsewhere  spoken  of  the  ruins  of  the  Castle  of 


232 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


Chavin,  which  I also  visited  for  the  second  time  on  this 
excursion ; and  in  this  connection  may  be  mentioned  a 
belief  or  supposition  among  the  natives  with  regard  to 
the  formation  of  the  stones  with  which  that  castle  is 
built. 

They  state  that  these  stones  have  been  modelled — not 
cut;  that  the  Incas  were  acquainted  with  some  herb,  an 
infusion  of  which,  poured  upon  stone,  caused  the  latter 
to  become  plastic,  when  it  was  easily  moulded  into  any 
required  shape.  It  is  stated  that  upon  one  occasion  some 
individuals  having  discovered  a subterranean  chamber 
belonging  to  an  Inca  dwelling,  accidentally  overturned 
an  earthen  vessel  which  they  found  there,  and  which 
contained  some  liquid  The  contents  falling  upon  the 
floor,  caused  the  stones  of  the  pavement  to  become  soft, 
like  dough  ; and  the  aforesaid  individuals  observing  this, 
endeavoured  to  save  a portion  of  the  liquid,  but  without 
success.  They  then  turned  their  attention  to  another 
similar  vessel  which  stood  near  by,  also  containing  a 
liquid,  and  pouring  a portion  of  this  upon  the  stone,  they 
observed  that  the  latter  resumed  its  usual  consistency! 

I do  not  know  that  there  is  any  foundation  for  these 
suppositions,  and  only  give  them  for  what  they  are  worth. 
The  stones  spoken  of  are,  it  must  be  added,  certainly  not 
formed  of  artificial  material,  as  terra-cotta  or  concrete,  but 
arc  natural  stones. 

In  the  cast  wall  of  one  of  the  small  chambers  or 
passages  of  the  palace  exist  two  pairs  of  holes  in  the 
masonry,  15  centimetres  apart,  and  about  the  height  of  a 
man  from  the  ground.  These,  it  is  stated,  were  “ gallows.” 
A rope  was  presumably  passed  through  these  holes  and 
around  the  neck  of  the  condemned ; the  stones  upon 
which  he,  or  she — for  one  side  was  for  men  and  the  other 
for  women  offenders — stood,  were  then  removed,  and  the 
latter  left  hanging  by  the  neck. 

The  Royal  Palace,  if  such  it  were — and  there  is  no 
doubt  that  the  Inca  inhabited  the  place — is  shown  in  the 
sketch.  It  consists  primarily  of  two  halls,  each  about  75 
metres  long  and  10  wide,  followed  by  two  courtyards,  to 


Hvahvco  Vicjo  Kui«%  or  Ttm  Inc*  I»*i  ac«.  Loom  wo  East. 

SktlcktJ  on  Ik*  by  Ik*  Amlkot. 


233 


The  Ruins  of  Huanuco  Viejo 

which  access  is  gained  by  the  portals  or  stone  doorways 
shown  on  the  plan.  There  are  six  of  these  doorways, 
all  beautifully  formed  of  cut  stone,  and  more  or  less  all 
alike.  As  shown  in  the  figures,  they  are  of  typical  Inca 
trapezoidal  form,  with  sloping  sides,  and  very  solidly 
constructed.  Possibly  there  is  a suggestion  of  something 
Egyptian  about  them. 

A remarkable  feature  about  the  plan  of  this  edifice  is 
that  of  the  arrangement  of  the  doors  upon  a “ visual  line.” 
This  may  possibly  have  been  accidental,  or  undesigned, 
although  I have  heard  it  stated  that  it  is  the  result  of 
some  certain  purpose.  The  observer,  standing  at  the 
western  side,  or  even  near  the  fortress,  has  a clear  view 
right  through  the  openings,  and  in  like  manner  from  the 
eastern  extremity — the  baths — finds  that  his  line  of  sight 
passes  all  these  apertures  and  rests  upon  the  wall  of  the 
fortress  in  the  distance.  This  is  made  clear  upon  the 
illustrations.  Possibly  the  arrangement  was  connected 
with  the  sunset,  as  the  “ visual  line  ” is  nearly  east  and 
west. 

Only  portions  of  the  masonry  are  of  worked  stone  ; the 
rest  are  of  unshaped,  or  very  slightly  shaped,  stones,  but 
are  nevertheless  skilfully  set  and  bonded.  On  the  western 
face  of  the  southernmost  of  the  two  halls  are  nine  doors 
and  window  openings,  occurring  alternately  ; and  on  the 
other  nine  doors  and  no  windows.  On  the  eastern  side 
are  the  baths,  whose  walls  are  all  of  carefully  cut  stone. 
These  are  shown  on  the  sketch.  All  around  these  buildings 
are  the  ruins  of  numerous  dwelling-houses,  which  from 
their  less  careful  construction  have  not  withstood,  except 
in  some  cases,  the  destructive  action  of  time.  Moreover, 
the  native  shepherds  are  continually  removing  the  stones 
to  form  corrals . It  is  not  possible  to  determine  exactly  of 
what  the  roofs  of  these  buildings  were  composed.  There 
are  no  vestiges  of  timber  remaining,  and  the  construction 
is  not  such  as  to  suggest  that  they  were  of  stone,  dome- 
shaped. Probably  they  were  of  thatched  grass  supported 
on  rafters,  and  this  would  seem  to  be  borne  out  by  what 
appear  to  be  gable  ends,  as  shown. 


234 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


The  fortress,  or  Temple  of  the  Sun,  if  such  it  was,  is 
rectangular  in  form,  very  solidly  constructed  of  cut  stone 
blocks,  surmounted  by  a cornice  composed  of  a fillet  and 
cavetto,  such  as  are  found  in  Doric  and  other  orders  of 
architecture.  The  corners,  top  stones  or  capitals,  are 
carved  with  the  marine  scroll  or  animal,  as  on  the 
palace  doorways.  The  building  stands  parallel  with  the 
others  in  the  centre  of  a large  square,  some  300  yards 
across,  the  ground  rising  slightly  on  all  sides  towards 
it.  It  does  not  appear  to  have  contained  any  covered 
portion,  although  there  are  indications  of  what  might 
prove  to  be  a subterranean  entrance  on  the  east  side. 
Neither  here  nor  in  any  other  portion  of  the  ruins  have 
there  been  any  attempts  at  excavation,  notwithstanding 
that,  as  this  was  one  of  the  seats  of  the  Inca,  it  is 
very  possible  that  treasure  lies  buried.  Some  gold 
objects,  I am  informed,  of  exceedingly  fine  workman- 
ship have  been  accidentally  discovered  in  times  gone 
by ; and  I should  consider  it  probable  that  search  and 
excavation  might  be  repaid,  for  it  is  well  known  that 
the  Incas  always  possessed  quantities  of  gold,  much  of 
which  was  buried  on  the  advent  of  the  Spaniards. 

The  portion  of  the  city  separated  from  that  upon 
the  plain  — or  possibly  at  one  time  the  intervening 
space  also  contained  dwellings — is,  as  previously  stated, 
situated  upon  some  limestone  hills  to  the  west,  and 
overlooking  the  fortress  and  castle.  These  hills,  it  may 
be  noted,  are  of  very  marked  vertical  stratification,  and 
large  quantities  of  limestone  blocks  have  been  removed, 
doubtless  to  build  the  city  below. 

This  portion  of  this  curious  ruined  city  consists  of 
a series  of  streets,  if  they  may  be  so  termed,  or 
rows  of  houses  where  the  street  or  passage  was  upon 
the  upper  side  of  each  row.  Some  of  the  houses  are 
circular  and  some  distance  apart — those  of  the  lower 
rows.  Next  above  comes  a row  of  circular  houses  only 
about  2 metres  apart ; still  higher,  square  single  houses, 
followed  by  several  rows  of  square  double  houses.  They 


Ruins  of  Huanuco  Viejo:  the  Inca  Baths. 

Sketched  on  the  spot  by  the  Author. 


285 


The  Ruins  of  Huanuco  Viejo 

are  all  about  the  same  size  — 7 metres  in  diameter,  or 
across  the  square.  The  walls  are  built  of  unsquared 
blocks  of  stone ; the  circular  houses  are  true  circles  ; the 
square  with  quoins  at  the  angles,  and  with  lintels  roughly 
shaped  over  doors  and  windows.  The  stones  are  bedded 
in  earth  or  mortar,  all  placed  with  care,  and  the  inter- 
stices filled  with  angular  fragments  of  stone  driven  in. 
The  walls  are  about  60  centimetres  in  thickness.  A 
small  door  on  the  upper  side,  about  50  centimetres 
square  only,  gives  access,  and  a small  window  on  the 
lower,  light.  Undoubtedly,  security  against  attack  or 
intrusion  was  the  dominant  note  of  their  construction. 

I rode  along  these  “ streets  ” on  mule-back,  but  time 
did  not  permit  me  to  count  the  number  of  dwellings, 
of  which  there  must  be  several  thousands,  as  the  rows 
continue  for  possibly  a kilometre  or  more,  around  the 
hill  to  the  south.  There  they  stand,  mute  witnesses  to 
a large  population,  which  lived  and  moved  and  had 
its  being  in  centuries  past,  and  whose  vestiges  are  now 
but — 

“ Blown  about  the  desert-dust ; 

Or  sealed  within  the  iron  hills  ! ” 

Traversing  the  city  is  the  “ Inca  Road.”  I followed 
this  road  for  a short  distance,  and,  in  fact,  portions  of  it 
still  form  the  means  of  descent  from  the  plain  to  the 
river  Vizcarra,  an  arm  of  the  Maranon.  It  passes  down 
a steep  ravine,  and  is  formed  of  circular  steps  of  unhewn 
stones.  This  descends  to  the  river,  near  the  town  of 
Aguamiro  or  La  Union,  a distance  of  a few  leagues,  and 
passes  the  river  Vizcarra  by  a bridge,  only  a portion  of 
the  original  abutments  of  which  remain.  To  the  east 
of  the  ruins  runs  the  river  Maranon  proper,  beyond  the 
hills  shown  in  the  sketch  of  the  baths ; and  the  Inca 
road  continues  to  the  river,  crossing  it  at  its  junction 
with  Lake  Lauricocha — the  principal  source  of  the  Maranon 
— by  a well-preserved  Inca  bridge  formed  of  slabs  of  stone. 

Time  would  not  permit  me  to  dispose  of  more  than 
one  day  and  a half  upon  the  ruins,  which  are  worthy  of 
more  study  than  I was  able  to  give.  Possibly  I may 


236 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


have  committed  some  errors  in  description  ; for  example, 
what  is  generally  termed  the  “ fortress  ” may  really  have 
been  the  “Temple  of  the  Sun,”  for  such  is  said  to  have 
existed  in  the  city.  I was  obliged  to  push  on  to  the 
south,  to  reach  a point  some  5 leagues  away,  and 
evening  was  falling  when  I gave  the  order  to  strike 
the  tent  and  load  the  mules. 

Very  picturesque  and  impressive  was  the  place  as  the 
long  shadows  fell  across  the  tableland ; the  sun’s  disc 
nearing  the  horizon  upon  the  hills,  which  crown  an  arm 
of  the  Maranon.  The  clouds,  a scarlet  curtain  of  texture 
rare  and  filmy,  strove  as  if  to  hide  his  exit ; and  from 
below,  rather  than  from  above,  appeared  the  shades  of 
evening.  Already  far  away  appeared  like  dark  spots 
upon  the  plain  the  forms  of  my  mules,  the  cries  of  the 
impatient  arrieros  lost  in  the  distance,  and  the  only  living 
beings  upon  the  spot  were  myself  and  the  mule  I bestrode. 
Some  attraction  of  contemplation,  born  of  the  influence 
of  the  dying  day,  held  me  momentarily  to  the  place — 
contemplation  of  those  old  sad  vestiges  of  a perished 
civilisation,  for  the  ruined  handiwork  of  his  kind  is  ever 
fraught  with  serious  cogitation  to  thinking  man.  That 
strange  old  monarchy,  that  industrious  race,  before  whose 
habitations  I stand ! They  are  gone.  What  part  have 
they  played  in  the  scheme  of  a world  : they  whose  only 
vestiges  are  these  stones? 

The  light  faded  from  the  western  sky,  save  that  pearly 
tint  of  momentary  beauty  following  the  after-glow  ; and 
a single  star,  dominant  of  the  horizon,  gleamed  like  a 
pale  jewel  against  the  vault  of  heaven,  whilst  the  purple 
haze  below  which  slowly  grew  to  being,  brought  silence, 
night,  and  solitude.  The  breeze  whispered  among  the 
deserted  halls  of  the  Inca  ; the  wild  oats  growing  above 
the  entablature  swayed  softly,  as  if  they  murmured : 
“ As  a flower  of  the  field  so  he  flourishes : for  the  wind 
passes  over  it  and  it  is  gone,  and  the  place  thereof  shall 
know  it  no  more  ! ” 


CHAPTER  XXIII 


THE  INCA  ROADS 

The  Empire  of  the  Incas,  which  was  governed  from 
Cuzco — its  Capital — required  that  means  of  communica- 
tion should  be  established  between  its  extremities ; and 
the  roads  which  united  it  to  Quito,  about  500  leagues 
to  the  north-west,  were  the  principal  arteries  of  travel. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  there  roads  existed,  but  it  is 
equally  certain  that  their  importance,  as  regards  con- 
struction from  an  engineering  point  of  view,  has  been 
much  exaggerated.  I should  be  sorry  to  dispute  their 
past  importance,  or  to  dissipate  pleasing  theories  and 
illusions,  but  I cannot  help  thinking  that  the  descriptions 
of  these  roads  have  often  been  made  by  writers  who 
have  not  seen  them,  and  who  have  given  rein  to  their 
imagination  to  a large  extent.  Some  writers  do  not 
hesitate  to  say  that  the  works  are  of  “such  importance 
and  magnitude  as  could  hardly  be  accomplished  by  the 
engineer  of  to-day,”  or  words  to  that  effect.  They  describe 
long  and  ponderous  bridges  over  rivers,  vast  open  cuttings 
through  rock,  and  enormous  extensions  of  paving  with 
blocks  of  stone.  Where  are  the  ruins  of  these  works? 
I will  translate  from  Zapata  again.  He  says  : 

“ Among  the  most  memorable  things,  and  those  which 
almost  exceed  the  strength  and  cunning  of  man,  are 
two  roads  which,  until  to-day,  are  found  in  our  Peru, 
disclosing  at  certain  distances  the  relics  of  their  grandeur. 
One  is  found  near  the  coast  upon  the  llanos  (plains) ; the 
other  passes  the  regions  of  the  interior,  or  sierras.  These 
were  the  work  of  the  great  Huayna  Capac,  the  twelfth 
Inca  of  Peru.  He  made  subject  all  the  provinces  between 
Cuzco  and  Quito ; and  as  the  summits  of  the  hills  and 

2 37 


238 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


the  difficult  passes  had  caused  more  trouble  than  the 
tribes  he  had  overcome,  he  desired  that  they  also  should 
be  monuments  to  his  victories.  To  accomplish  this  he 
levelled  mountains,  opened  the  Cordilleran  precipices, 
diverted  rivers,  filled  up  valleys,  and  overcame  all  obstacles 
that  might  offer  difficulty  in  the  advance.  This  he  accom- 
plished for  a distance  of  500  leagues — some  say  700 — in 
the  term  of  a few  years,  and  returned  to  Cuzco,  adding 
a fresh  laurel  to  his  conquests  in  the  invention  of 
these  roads.” 

Zapata  then  quotes  from  Pinelo,  who  says  as  to  this 
work  : “ With  good  reason  it  may  be  affirmed  that  it  was  a 
marvel  of  the  orb,  worthy  of  eternal  memory,"  adding  that 
it  was  all  done  in  order  that  the  Inca  might  pass  over  the 
road  a single  time. 

“ On  the  highest  summits,”  continues  Zapata,  “ cutting 
off  the  cones  for  this  purj>osc,  he  formed  plazas  for  observa- 
tion, to  which  ascent  was  gained  by  stone  steps.  These 
were  the  lodging-places  of  the  Inca,  and  he  was  able  to 
amuse  himself  in  watching  the  defiling  of  the  numerous 
armies  which  followed  him,  and  the  hills,  valleys,  and 
rivers  which  spread  before  his  view. 

M A few  years  afterwards  Huayna-Capac  determined  to 
visit  the  kingdom  of  Quito,  and  not  desiring  to  pass  over 
the  same  road,  he  ordered  another  to  be  made  upon  the 
coast  plains.  This  was  equally  long,  40  feet  wide,  and 
bounded  by  walls  and  (»alisadcs.  It  ran  through  woods  for 
great  parts  ; and  in  those  places  where  the  sand  prevented 
the  erection  of  walls,  stakes  were  driven  in  to  show  the 
direction.  Also  at  certain  distances  large  buildings  called 
tatnbos  were  erected.  These  were  houses  which  offered  the 
most  comfortable  accommodation,  and  some  of  them  were 
as  rich  as  the  palaces  of  Cuzco.” 

Zapata  then  quotes  from  a writer — Gautier — as  follows  : 

“ Leaving  the  Romans  to  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa, 
which  are  the  parts  of  the  world  where  they  have  extended 
their  empire,  and  passing  to  America,  we  find  there  two 
roads  which  a sovereign  of  that  country  ordered  to  be 
made.  These  roads  are  in  Peru ; they  are  500  leagues 
long , and  go  from  Cuzco  to  Quito.  They  were  formerly 
planted  with  trees,  and  defended  at  their  sides  by  strong 


The  Inca  Roads 


239 


walls  and  masonry,  and  along  their  whole  extension  ran 
open  conduits.  They  were  25  paces  wide,  paved  wherever 
necessary  with  stones  so  prodigious  as  at  no  time  were 
equalled  by  the  Romans.  The  stones  of  which  they  were 
formed  were  ordinarily  10  feet  square.  All  along  these 
were  beautiful  castles  at  distances  of  a day’s  journey  apart, 
and  which  had  been  built  expressly  for  the  comfort  of 
travellers.” 

Zapata  does  not  say  if  the  above  writer  saw  these 
matters  himself,  or  whether  he  is  only  copying  from  the 
older  Spanish  chroniclers.  The  probable  truth  of  the 
matter  is  that  these  roads  were  of  much  less  elaborate  con- 
struction than  has  been  pictured.  Those  portions  which  I 
have  seen  were  certainly  not  worthy  of  the  descriptions 
lavished  upon  them.  In  the  first  place,  the  methods  of 
travel  and  conveyance  known  to  the  Incas  did  not  call 
for  elaborate  structures  in  these  roads,  nor  uniformity  of 
grade,  level,  and  alignment.  It  is  to  be  recollected  that 
the  inhabitants  of  the  country  in  pre-hispanic  times  pos- 
sessed no  four-footed  beasts  of  burden — except  the  llama  : 
no  horses,  mules  or  oxen,  and  consequently  no  wheeled 
vehicles.  Everything  was  packed  on  men’s  backs  or  the 
backs  of  llamas,  and  the  Indian  ever  prefers  to  scale  a 
height  and  so  travel  in  a direct  line  rather  than  to  deviate 
from  his  way  by  following  a curving  contour  of  easier  grade. 
Consequently  their  roads  were  more  or  less  straight,  and 
steep  ascents  were  overcome  by  steps  formed  of  slabs  of 
stone,  rough  from  the  quarries.  I have  followed  long 
stretches  of  track  which  have  been  defined  simply  by  lines 
of  stones  or  large  pebbles  placed  at  both  sides,  especially 
over  sandy  areas  ; but  this  called  for  no  particular  skill. 
Their  roads  often  were  obliged  to  follow  along  steep 
mountain-slopes,  and  there  they  were  terraced  on  the  lower 
sides  with  rough  slabs  and  small  blocks  of  stone  built  up  as 
retaining  walls,  and  put  together  with  some  skill,  but  not 
calling  for  any  particular  comment.  Indeed,  these  walls 
and  ways  are  found  on  the  slopes  of  every  river-valley, 
and  often  in  such  situations  as  are  now  quite  inaccessible. 
The  Indians  of  that  period  always  seemed  to  prefer  to 


240 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


journey  along  the  precipitous  hillsides  in  this  way,  rather 
than  to  follow  the  easier  floor  of  the  valley.  Possibly  the 
rainfall  was  heavier  at  that  epoch,  and  valleys  more  subject 
to  floods,  although  it  was  probably  motived  from  measures 
of  protection  from  enemies.  Their  roads,  therefore,  like 
their  lands  — the  andenes  — and  their  habitations,  were 
always  built  in  the  most  difficult  and  inaccessible  place 
the  neighbourhood  afforded. 

There  was,  then,  no  necessity  for  great  and  levelled 
roads,  nor  for  paving  them  with  vast  blocks  of  stone,  except 
where  they  crossed  the  swamps  of  the  punas ; and  here  there 
were  used,  and  indeed  arc  still  used,  large  slabs  of  stone, 
or  iozas , taken  from  the  nearest  stratified  hill.  As  for  the 
cutting-off  of  the  cones  of  hills  to  make  plazas , or  places  of 
observation,  this  was  undoubtedly  done  to  a large  extent ; 
and  1 have  examined  many  such,  although  they  do  not 
form  works  of  any  but  a simple  nature  generally.  These 
flat  places  were  also  used  for  dances  and  sacrifices,  and  are, 
indeed,  still  so  used  in  some  parts  of  the  country  for  the 
former  purpose.  Also  they  were,  and  are,  used  for  the 
winnowing  of  chaff  from  grain.  The  women,  in  order  to 
perform  this,  carry  the  unclcaned  grain  up  in  their  blankets 
and  ponchos , and  by  repeated  lifting  up  and  letting  fall  of 
handfuls  of  it,  the  strong  breeze  ever  blowing  in  such 
places  carries  away  the  chaff. 

Bridges  they  built,  which  displayed  considerable  skill, 
but  which  were,  of  course,  inferior  to  the  most  common- 
place of  modem  engineering  structures  of  a like  nature. 
They  built  stone  bridges,  employing  single  long  slabs  to 
span  from  pier  to  pier,  some  of  which  were  of  considerable 
length.  I have  described  one  of  this  nature  in  the  chapter 
upon  the  Castle  of  Chavin,  where  the  slabs  were  12  to  1 5 
feet  in  length.  Suspension  bridges  of  woven  grass  ropes 
were  built  over  chasms  of  considerable  width. 

One  of  these  two  famous  roads — that  of  the  interior — 
undoubtedly  followed  for  a part  of  its  course  the  portion 
of  the  Marafton  near  its  source,  which  I have  elsewhere 
described.  Thence,  it  doubtless  continued  along  that 
river,  or  nearly,  to  Cajamarca,  which  itself  is  situated  in 


M 

al 


Part  of  the  Castle  of  Chavin. 


The  Inca  Roads 


241 


the  valley  of  the  Maranon,  far  to  the  north.  Some  of 
the  stopping  - places  or  tambos  were  those  ruins  also 
described,  and  included  Chavin,  and  Huanuco  Viejo. 
These  were  very  extensive  places,  as  evidenced  by  the 
large  area  which  the  existing  ruins  cover.  Most  of  the 
other  tambos  were  probably  of  less  elaborate  description, 
and  the  character  of  their  construction  will  be  seen  from 
the  chapter  on  the  Upper  Maranon,  which  describes  some 
of  the  numerous  ruins  of  castles  and  habitations  which  I 
passed. 

On  the  coast  road  numerous  ruins  also  exist,  some  of 
which  I have  described.  Most  of  these  were  of  adobe, 
or  sun-dried,  earthen  bricks,  and  far  less  lasting  and 
important  than  those  of  the  highlands. 

I may  here  remark  that  whatever  may  or  may  not  have 
been  the  exact  condition  of  these  roads  and  stopping- 
places  they  certainly  embodied  great  convenience  for 
travellers  of  that  time.  Would  that  equal  facilities 
existed  now,  for  the  traveller  in  these  regions  to-day  finds 
but  little  care  or  comfort,  and  absolutely  none  which  is 
consequent  upon  any  action  of  the  Government,  who 
make  little  endeavour  to  foster  means  of  travel  in  the 
interior.  It  is  often  the  case  that  the  local  authorities 
fail  entirely  to  perform  the  simplest  duties  of  road- 
mending and  maintenance  ; and,  indeed,  the  funds  destined 
for  this  purpose  are  too  often  misappropriated.  Here, 
then,  are  the  methods  and  results  born  of  a developing 
democracy  contrasted  with  those  of  an  ancient  autocracy. 

A favourite  type  of  small  bridge  which  was  used  in 
pre-Columbian  times,  and  which,  in  fact,  is  still  built  in 
country  places,  might  be  described  as  a species  of  canti- 
lever, in  principle.  A point  is  selected  in  the  stream  to 
be  crossed,  where  two  rocks,  one  on  each  side,  approach 
to  form  the  nearest  possible  abutments.  Upon  these  is 
placed  rude  masonry  of  unworked  stones  to  bring  the 
abutments  to  a flat  surface,  and  stout  poles  are  laid 
thereon,  projecting  a few  feet  over  the  stream,  on  each 
side.  Upon  these  is  laid  a layer  of  poles,  crosswise,  tied 
with  strips  of  hide  or  dried-grass  ropes.  A further  layer 

Q 


24  2 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


of  poles  is  now  placed,  projecting  still  further  over  the 
stream,  and  the  shore  ends  of  both  the  first  and  third 
layer  are  weighted  with  stones  and  road  material,  when 
another  layer  of  transverse  poles  is  laid  in  place.  The 
span  has  now  been  considerably  decreased,  and  the 
“girders,”  or  long  poles,  are  laid  across,  so  spanning  the 
stream.  The  whole  platform  is  now  covered  with  thinner 
poles,  brush,  and  twigs,  and  a layer  of  earth  over  all,  and 
the  structure  is  complete.  The  bridge  over  the  Maranon 
at  Chuquibamba  is  typical  of  this  method  of  construction  ; 
and,  in  fact,  all  over  the  country  I have  had  occasion  to 
cross  such  bridges,  often  in  fear  that  my  horse’s  hoofs 
would  penetrate  the  light  material  and  plunge  me  into 
the  stream ; often  prudently  alighting  at  any  signs  of 
nervousness  on  the  animal’s  part. 

These  bridge  builders  appear  to  have  had  no  know- 
ledge of  the  principle  of  the  trussed  girder ; nothing  of  this 
nature  seems  to  have  been  evolved,  notwithstanding  that 
long  sticks  of  timber  are  rarely  obtainable  in  the  regions 
of  the  coast  and  Cordillera,  and  it  might  have  been 
supposed  that  some  form  of  splicing  might  have  been 
evolved.  Even  to-day  the  authorities  of  interior  towns 
form  bridges  simply  by  building  up  masonry  abutments 
and  laying  trunks  of  the  eucalyptus  upon  them  for  the 
roadway — the  largest  timber  obtainable.  1 was  invited 
to  attend  the  ceremony  of  opening  a bridge  of  this 
nature,  of  considerable  span ; and,  seeing  the  dangerous 
bending  of  the  poles  in  the  centre,  I showed  the  native 
carpenter  there  how  to  make  an  ordinary  M Howe  ” truss 
with  the  same  material  and  a few  iron  bars  and 
bolts.  This  was  looked  upon  as  a remarkable  piece  of 
work. 

As  regards  the  arch  the  Quechuas  and  Aymaras  were, 
there  is  no  doubt,  unacquainted  with  its  principle  and 
use,  although  it  is  stated  to  have  been  known  to  the 
Chimus,  a people  of  Peru  of  the  region  of  Trujillo,  who 
spoke  a different  language  to  the  first-mentioned.  The 
nearest  approach  to  anything  embodying  the  principle 
of  the  arch  that  I have  seen  is  in  the  Indian  houses 


The  Inca  Roads 


243 


between  Lakes  Arapa  and  Titicaca,  described  in  another 
chapter.  But  these  are  really  domes,  not  arches,  although 
a vertical  section  of  a dome  may  be  conceived  to  be  a 
kind  of  arch,  sustaining  its  own  weight,  wind  - pressure, 
etc.  ; whilst  a horizontal  section  might  be  looked  upon  as 
a species  of  horizontal  arch,  such  as  embodied  in  the 
principle  of  the  modern  stone  dam  with  a curving  water- 
face,  as  used  for  reservoirs. 

Writing  of  the  Inca  bridges,  Zapata  says  : 

“ They  are,  then,  bridges  of  mimbres , which  in  Peru 
are  called  juncos , which  grow  very  long  and  flexible,  and 
resist  time,  water,  and  their  effects.  They  wove  plaits 
of  these,  which  they  multiplied  until  they  equalled  the 
weight  of  a man.  With  five  of  these,  which  they  fastened 
to  both  sides  of  the  rivers,  they  formed  bridges,  seeking 
for  their  securing  the  hardest  rocks  ; and  in  the  case  of 
not  finding  such,  they  built  blocks  of  stone  and  lime,  not 
less  firm  than  the  natural  rocks.  Of  the  five  plaits  or 
cables  three  form  the  roadway,  and  sticks  of  wood  about 
20  inches  thick,  and  of  the  width  of  the  bridge,  which 
generally  is  2 yards,  were  placed  between.  This  is  then 
covered  with  a weaving  of  dry  branches,  which  form  the 
floor.  The  other  two  cables  are  placed  at  the  sides,  and 
serve  as  handrails,  raised  about  the  height  of  the  body 
of  a man,  on  foot.  These  bridges  are  so  strong  that  they 
sustain  beasts  of  burden  loaded  with  packs.  The  entrance 
is  made  descending,  and  the  exit  by  ascending,  aided  by 
the  considerable  sag,  caused,  in  addition,  by  the  bridge’s 
weight.  And  although  the  cables  are  well  stretched,  the 
structure,  being  in  the  air,  swings  from  one  side  to  the 
other  with  the  least  movement  of  the  passenger.  The 
Indians  are  so  expert  that  they  pass  beasts  of  burden 
over,  galloping ; and  many  of  them,  without  dismounting, 
gallop  over  at  full  speed,  to  the  surprise  of  the  Spaniards, 
who  feared  to  make  the  transit  of  these  machines. 

“ One  of  the  most  famous  of  these  bridges  is  that 
over  the  Apurimac  river.  Its  length  is  200  paces,  and 
it  is  fastened  to  a rock  on  one  side,  and  to  a strong  wall 
on  the  other.  It  was  built  by  Maita  Capac,  and  exists 
until  to-day,  the  cables  being  kept  in  repair.  And  another 
was  also  built  by  him  over  the  Desaguadero,  which  drains 
Lake  Titicaca,  of  woven  dried  grass,  the  same  material 
of  which  the  Indians  form  their  rafts  on  this  great  lake. 
This  was  150  paces  long  and  14  feet  wide,  and  the  cables 
were  renewed  every  six  months.” 


244 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


The  Indians  did  not  only  use  this  kind  of  bridge, 
says  Zapata ; and  he  describes  another  method  of  passing 
rivers  in  situations  which  did  not  permit  of  the  construc- 
tion of  the  suspension  bridges  described.  Strong  beams 
or  tree-trunks  were  driven  into  the  banks,  and  between 
these  was  stretched  a woven  cable.  Upon  this  worked  a 
strong  wooden  ring,  known  in  Quechua  as  Oroya ; and 
hanging  therefrom  was  a basket,  or  car,  and  the  passenger 
hauled  himself  from  one  side  to  the  other  by  means  of  a 
cord.  The  Spaniards  were  quite  unable  to  improve  upon 
these  bridges,  when  they  came.  Two  great  aqueducts 
were  built  by  the  Incas,  according  to  Zapata,  who  quotes 
Garcilasso  and  Pinelo ; one  of  150  leagues  long  and  12  feet 
deep,  made  around  deep  valleys,  and  cut  in  rocky  slopes 
without  the  use  of  iron  tools.  These  were  for  irrigation 
purposes,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  in  this  science  the 
Indians  of  that  period  were  adept. 

The  Incas  used  the  thermal  springs  which  abound 
in  the  Cordillera,  for  baths  and  curative  purposes,  and 
these  are  still  employed  by  the  present  inhabitants  of 
the  country. 

The  Incas  and  Aymaras,  then,  possessed  primitive 
engineering  knowledge  of  no  mean  order.  Their  buildings 
were  well  adapted  for  regions  subject  to  earthquakes, 
as  the  Andes  are,  for  their  walls  are  strong  and  heavy. 
The  buildings  are,  with  rare  exception,  of  one  storey,  and 
the  roofs  were  probably  of  poles  and  thatch.  They  cut, 
carved,  and  erected  great  monoliths ; they  adjusted  stone 
blocks  with  the  greatest  nicety ; they  excavated  and 
embanked  in  rock  and  earth  ; they  fashioned  stone  and 
copper  tools ; they  smelted  ores ; built  roads  and  aque- 
ducts, and  irrigation  works ; and  made  astronomical 
observations.  All  of  these  matters  are  of  intense  interest ; 
they  show  a considerable  advance  on  that  road  towards 
intellect  and  knowledge  whose  starting-point  is  barbarism, 
and  along  which  it  is  the  innate  attribute  and  inevitable 
tendency  of  man  to  press,  in  whatever  climate  or  hemi- 
sphere, towards  his  destiny  and  his  millenium  goal ! 


CHAPTER  XXIV 


THE  INCA  CIVILISATION  IN  THE  AMAZONIAN  FORESTS 

It  is  a debated  point  as  to  whether  the  Inca  civilisation 
and  influence  extended  beyond  the  uplands  of  the  Andes 
eastwardly  to  the  Amazonian  region  of  forests,  or  “ Mon- 
tana.” It  has  been  stated  that  such  was  not  the  case ; 
but  recent  investigations  by  some  of  the  Peruvian  Govern- 
ment engineers  and  employees,  as  well  as  by  foreign 
travellers  in  the  country,  demonstrate  that  evidences  of 
Inca  influence,  and  the  remains  of  their  handiwork,  are 
encountered  in  those  regions. 

Among  these  evidences  are  my  own  observations,  and 
I have  examined  various  remains  of  Inca  works  in  the 
upper  part  of  the  Montana.  The  works  at  the  Aporoma 
gold  mines,  and  the  roads  leading  thereto,  which  I have 
elsewhere  described,  have  been  made,  there  can  be  no 
doubt,  partly  in  pre-hispanic  days.  There  is  also  no  doubt 
that  the  Spaniards  made  use  of  the  Inca  roads  and  mines, 
transforming  the  former  into  mule  roads  ; and  the  trail 
to  Aporoma  and  other  similar  trails  in  that  region  are 
of  that  type,  consisting  of  steps  made  of  lozas , or  flat 
slabs  of  unhewn  stone,  evidently  formed  for  traffic  by 
foot-passengers  rather  than  for  beasts  of  burden. 

The  great  gold  mines  of  these  regions,  some  of  which 
I have  described  elsewhere,  were  undoubtedly  one  of  the 
most  important  sources  of  Inca  wealth  and  treasure  in 
gold;  especially  those  of  Aporoma,  San  Juan  del  Oro, 
and  San  Gaban,  with  the  other  numerous  alluvial  deposits 
in  that  region. 

As  I have  explained  in  the  chapter  upon  my  expedi- 
tion to  the  Aporoma  mines,  the  name  Azangaro  is  the 

245 


246 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


corruption  of  a Quechua  word,  meaning,  “the  farthest 
away”:  supposedly  the  farthest  north-easterly  boundary 
of  the  territory  dominated  by  the  Incas.  But  the  mines 
above-mentioned  are  much  to  the  north-east  of  the  Cor- 
dillera of  Azangaro,  and  the  name  was  probably  meant  to 
indicate  the  furthest  main  Andean  range,  for  this  Cordillera 
of  Azangaro,  and  Anannea  forms  the  main  summit  of 
the  Andes,  and  the  divortia  aquarum  of  the  Continent, 
as  shown  on  the  accompanying  route-map  of  my  journey. 
An  account,  published  by  Seftor  Rosell,  in  Lima,  in 
1 899,  says : 

“In  the  interior  of  the  Montana  there  did  not  exist 
any  (Inca)  towns  or  villages  of  importance,  but  it  is 
evident  that  the  country  was  inhabited,  and  subject 
to  the  Inca  government  of  Cuzco.  Undoubtedly,  they 
worked  gold  mines  according  to  the  method  of  that 
time,  and  on  account  of  the  Inca  Government;  and  this 
may  be  taken  as  proved  by  the  fact  that  hardly  was 
the  conquest  of  Peru  realised  by  the  Spaniards,  when 
we  learn  that  one  of  the  Pizarros  was  the  owner  of  the 
San  Juan  del  Oro  mine,  directing  the  works  and  ex- 
tracting tremendous  profits.  This  can  only  be  explained 
by  taking  it  for  granted  that  the  Spaniards  found  the 
mines  in  working  order  on  their  arrival.  Pizarro  and 
his  companions,  being  informed  of  these  riches,  were 
enabled  to  adventure  on  known  lands,  and  not  forced  to 
proceed  to  discover  any  unknown  country,  but  to  direct 
themselves  to  one  of  the  best  possessions  of  the  Inca, 
and  seize  it,  dispossessing  the  primitive  owners.” 

The  Pizarros  undoubtedly  made  a rich  haul  in  these 
mines,  and  I am  tempted  to  reflect  in  passing  that  their 
methods  were  even  more  successful  than  those  sometimes 
employed  by  the  modem  “Pizarros”  of  European  or 
North  American  capitals — the  company  promoters  and 
stock  gamblers — who  at  times  are  enabled  to  annex  large 
interests  in  mines  without  leaving  their  office  desks ! 
But,  pardon,  patient  reader,  I digress ! let  us  return  to 
our  Incas. 

Cieza  de  Leon,  the  Spanish  historian,  who  wrote  in 
1553,  hardly  eighteen  years  after  the  founding  of  Lima, 
speaks  of  these  mines  of  Carabaya  as  having  produced 


Inca  Civilisation  in  the  Amazonian  Forests  247 

1.700.000  Spanish  dollars  in  gold;  and  Garcilazo  de  la 
Vega,  the  historian  of  the  Conquest,  also  describes  them, 
showing  that  they  had  existed  in  pre-hispanic  days,  and 
that  the  colossal  works,  some  of  which  I have  mentioned 
(as  in  Aporoma),  were  found  in  existence  by  the  Spaniards, 
and  made  use  of  by  them. 

Hydraulic  gold  mining  in  these  regions,  such  as  I 
have  seen  performed  by  the  Indians,  and  have  described, 
is  an  indigenous  industry,  and  must  have  been  evolved 
by  reason  of  its  natural  environment  long  before  the 
advent  of  a white  race.  Indeed,  the  Spaniards  learnt 
from  the  Indians,  rather  than  having  taught  them  in 
this  respect.  Of  course,  these  mines  are  not  situated  in 
the  dense  tropical  forest  of  the  true  Montana,  but  in 
the  lower  foot-hills  and  valleys  of  the  Andes.  Never- 
theless, this  is  the  upper  edge  of  the  Montana,  and  in 
some  cases  at  as  low  an  elevation  above  sea  - level  as 

5.000  feet. 

In  the  chapter  treating  of  the  Montana  and  the 
Indians  of  the  Amazonian  region,  it  has  been  shown 
that  there  was  considerable  connection  with  the  Incas 
by  those  tribes.  In  the  Archives  of  the  Government  deal- 
ing with  the  Department  of  Loreto,  published  in  1905 — 
which  volume  was  officially  presented  to  me — appears 
an  interesting  report  by  one  of  the  Engineers  of  the 
Government  — Von  Hassel  — upon  his  investigation  in 
the  Montana,  made  by  order  of  the  Departmental 
officials,  in  February,  1905,  and  which  I have  quoted  at 
some  length  in  the  chapter  upon  the  “ Montana.”  The 
report  gives  the  result  of  some  ten  years’  observation, 
and  I will  here  translate  some  extracts  dealing  with 
the  indications  of  Inca  influence  in  the  Montana.  It 
says : 

“The  principal  monuments  of  the  Inca  epoch  in 
the  Montana  are  the  following : — Inca  roads  from 
Paucartambo  to  the  Madre  de  Dios  river ; Inca  road 
from  Cuzco  to  the  head-waters  of  the  Manu ; andenes 
in  the  valley  of  the  Yavero;  Inca  road  in  the  valley 
of  the  Urubamba  river  in  the  direction  of  Tonquini ; 


248 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


aridities  and  other  indications  in  the  valley  of  Timpia, 
with  the  chisellings  of  the  Sun  and  Moon  on  a rock 
near  Pangoa;  Inca  roads  to  the  right  and  left  of  the 
Marafton  (lower) ; remains  of  buildings  which  contained 
copper  hatchets  in  Cumari  on  the  Ucayali  river;  the 
ruins  of  Vilcabamba  in  Intipampa,  river  Picha.” 

It  seems  to  be  the  case,  therefore,  that  the  Incas 
exercised  some  considerable  influence  over  these  lower 
regions,  and  the  point  is  an  important  one.  Whether 
they  included  them  in  their  dominions  or  not  is  doubtful. 
It  is  hardly  to  be  expected  that  they  would  have  lived 
there,  the  conditions  of  climate,  temperature,  topography, 
vegetation  and  every  other  natural  characteristic  being 
so  totally  different  to  those  of  the  highlands  where  they 
had  evolved  and  lived.  Even  to-day,  as  I have  shown 
elsewhere,  the  Cholo,  or  even  the  mestizo  of  mixed 
Spanish  and  Quechua  blood  of  the  highlands,  or  Sierra, 
dislikes  to  descend  to  the  warmer  regions  of  the  Montana, 
or  even  of  the  Coast.  For  him  they  are  enervating 
and  malarious,  after  the  tonic  air  of  the  plateaux.  Yet 
all  this  must  be  considered  in  the  light  of  the  accounts 
which  follow,  and  of  recent  investigations  and  discoveries 
in  the  Montana. 

The  keen,  cold  regions  of  the  Andean  plateaux  seem 
to  have  been  conducive  to  this  isolated  civilisation  of  the 
Incas.  The  harder  conditions  of  the  ‘‘struggle  for  life” 
encountered  there,  seem  — as  ever  — to  have  been  more 
conducive  to  arousing  and  nurturing  the  spark  of  intellect 
than  the  degenerative  environment  of  the  profuse  tropical 
regions  of  the  Amazonian  forests  and  plains.  Just  as  the 
colder  regions  of  the  north  of  Europe  produced  a thinking 
and  an  acting  race — the  highest  civilisation  of  the  world, 
of  Britain  and  kindred  countries — so  the  Andean  plateau, 
whose  topographical  altitude  of  elevation  rendered  it  in  a 
sense  equivalent  to  altitude  of  latitude,  produced  a think- 
ing and  acting  civilisation  on  its  continent.  Nowhere  can 
a more  notable  example  be  found  of  the  effect  of  topo- 
graphical and  climatic  environment  upon  man  than  in  the 
comparison  of  the  autochthonous  race — if  such  it  were — of 


Inca  Civilisation  in  the  Amazonian  Forests  249 

the  Andes,  with  those  of  the  Amazonian  forests.  The 
Incas,  indeed,  developed  some  points  of  government  and 
social  economy  superior  to  those  existing  now  in  the 
hispanic  civilisation  of  Peru,  imported  from  Europe,  and 
which  has  principally  taken  route  in  the  rather  enervating 
environment  of  the  Pacific  coast,  as  Lima.  Possibly  if  the 
people  of  Lima  were  to  move  their  city  up  to  this  plateau 
of  the  Andes  they  would  acquire  a more  vigorous  and 
energetic  character.  Certain  it  is  that  they  would  lose 
their  pallor  and  love  of  ease,  and  acquire  the  ruddy  glow 
and  spirit  of  activity  of  the  highlander.  I commend  the 
idea  to  them  I Truly,  whether  as  individuals  or  as  races, 
the  hardships  we  are  forced  to  endure  furnish  that  “ ’fining 
in  the  crucible  ” which  is  the  process  and  method  of 
advancement. 

In  the  Journal  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society 
for  August,  1905,  appears  an  interesting  paper  (Baron 
Nordenskold),  the  result  of  journeys  made  in  1904  and 
the  beginning  of  1905,  and  dealing  with  the  Inca  civilisa- 
tion, especially  with  regard  to  its  possible  former  existence 
in  the  Montana.  He  says  : 

“This  is,  in  brief,  what  I have  discovered  in  the  fell 
valleys  east  of  the  Andes,  bearing  any  close  connection 
with  the  civilisation  of  the  Andean  fells — more  especially 
with  the  builders  of  the  Chulpas  (sepulchral  grottoes),  who 
were  probably  the  ancestors  of  the  Aymaras.” 

He  continues,  and  the  paragraph  is  printed  in  italics  : 

“ As  we  have  ascertained,  the  remains  of  this  civilisa- 
tion is  not  met  with  farther  east  than  the  verge  of  the 
primeval  or  dense  tropical  forests,  with  the  sole  exception 
of  the  valleys  of  the  fell,  which  afford  to  man  about  the 
same  conditions  of  life  as  the  lower  parts  of  the  Bolivian- 
Peruvian  elevated  plateau  round  Lake  Titicaca.” 

He  also  says : 

“ Further  east,  towards  the  interior  of  the  primeval 
forests,  1,960  to  2,300  feet  above  sea-level,  I found  large 
dwelling-places.  They  prove  that  the  now  uninhabited 
primeval  forests  formerly  had  a numerous  population. 
These  things  were  absolutely  unlike  anything  discovered 


250 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


in  the  fell  valleys,  and  are  derived  from  a population  that 
has  evidently  occupied  a higher  status  than  the  savages  at 
present  living  in  the  primeval  forests  at  Rio  Madidi,  Rio 
Tambopata,  and  Rio  Inambari.  Thus,  in  the  primeval 
forests  large  grinding-stones  are  found,  and  masses  of 
fragments  of  pottery,  furnished  with  totally  different 
ornaments  from  those  seen  on  the  pottery  from  the 
Chulpas.” 

Another  passage  says: 

“In  the  primeval  forests  east  of  Cuzco  the  Indians  of 
the  fell  have  not  spread.  Their  territory  did  not  extend 
further  than  Co  miles  east  of  their  capital — Cuzco — and 
yet  they  or  their  cultural  influence  predominated  from 
Argentina  to  Equador.” 

The  account  also  speaks  of  a great  stone  which  serves 
as  a bridge  over  the  stream  of  Sina,  also  “ several  stones 
there,  ornamented  with  serpents,  while  one  is  adorned  with 
a fish.”  Sina  is  not  far  from  Poto,  in  the  region  I have 
described  from  my  own  visit  in  another  chapter. 

Another  extract  is : 

“ It  would  also  be  of  importance  to  learn  in  what  degree 
these  Indians  of  the  primeval  forests  have  possessed  any 
independent  civilisation,  or  how  far  they  have  been  influ- 
enced by  that  of  the  fell.  In  Chaco  (Argentina)  I found 
shells  from  the  Pacific  Ocean  (Oliva  Peruana)  in  a grave, 
which  proves  that  communication  for  purposes  of  barter 
existed  from  the  shores  of  the  ocean  to  the  dense  tropical 
forests  of  Chaco.” 

Commenting  upon  the  above  extracts,  from  the  point  of 
view  of  my  own  experience,  it  seems  to  me  that  they  point 
strongly  to  Inca  influence  in,  and  possibly  occupation  at, 
some  period  of  the  Montafta  The  grinding-stone  may 
very  possibly  be  akin — according  to  its  photo — to  the  kirn - 
baletes , or  grinding  - stones,  which  are  found  in  hundreds 
throughout  Peru  in  proximity  to  the  gold  mines  of  the 
Cordillera  and  the  Coast,  and  which  may  have  been  a 
native  invention,  used  in  pre-hispanic  as  well  as  in  post- 
hispanic  days,  by  the  Indians  for  grinding  up  gold  quartz. 
In  this  connection,  however,  it  is  to  be  recollected  that  the 
Indians  were  not  acquainted,  in  all  probability,  with  the 


Inca  Civilisation  in  the  Amazonian  Forests  251 


use  of  quicksilver  in  this  industry,  which  might  cast  a 
doubt  upon  their  use  of  the  kimbalete. 

As  to  the  sea-shells  described  above,  it  is  probable  that 
they  were  not  used  only  as  a medium  of  barter,  but  that 
they  had  a religious  meaning  ; and  in  this  connection  I may 
draw  attention  to  the  shells  found  near  Huaraz,  of  which  I 
give  an  illustration.  The  adornment  or  carving  spoken 
of  at  Sinca,  of  a fish,  is  also  significant,  recollecting  that 
the  religion  and  origin  of  the  Incas  seems  to  have  been 
connected  with  some  marine  event  or  matter.  It  is  here 
interesting  to  compare  all  this  with  the  chapter  dealing 
with  the  Inca  civilisation,  and  the  statement  contained 
therein,  by  Dr  Patron  regarding  Huirakocha,  as  well  as  the 
description  of  the  megalithic  remains  and  their  origin  on 
Easter  Island.  Also  the  carvings  which  I have  described 
and  illustrated  of  Huanuco  Viejo,  which  may  possibly  be 
meant  to  represent  some  marine  animal ; and  the  stone 
taken  from  Chavin,  for  might  not  the  scrolls  and  carvings 
on  this  stone  be  considered  to  represent  fishes’  or  serpents’ 
heads,  and  waves,  alternately  ? At  any  rate,  the  idea 
presents  itself  to  my  mind. 

Taking  all  these  matters  into  consideration  we  see  that 
the  marine  emblems  of  the  Incas  might  reasonably  be  sup- 
posed to  have  been  introduced  into  the  Montana ; and  it  is 
a point  which  must  be  insisted  upon  that  the  knowledge 
of  these  tropical  forests  which  we  have  is  certainly  not  yet 
sufficient  to  enable  us  to  state  that  no  ruins  of  true  Inca 
buildings  exist  there.  There  might  be  whole  ancient  cities 
buried  in  the  vegetation,  still  undiscovered : such  as  no 
explorer  could  expect  to  find  in  a few  months’  travel  in  a 
region  covering  so  vast  an  area. 

I may  comment  slightly  upon  the  remarks  in  the 
account  of  Baron  Nordenskold,  that: 

“ East  of  the  Cordillera  real,  in  the  higher  valleys  of 
the  fell,  the  possibilities  of  human  subsistence  are  about 
the  same  as  on  the  plateau,”  and  . . . “ the  valleys  of  the 
fell,  which  afford  to  man  about  the  same  conditions  of 
life  as  the  lower  parts  of  the  Bolivian  - Peruvian  elevated 
plateau  around  Lake  Titicaca.” 


•25  2 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


It  must  be  recollected  that  on  the  eastern  slopes  of 
the  Andes  there  is  no  large  plateau  answering  to  the 
elevation  of  that  of  the  Titicaca  basin  or  tableland  ; and 
the  conditions  of  human  life  vary  a good  deal  there  and 
differ  from  Titicaca,  merging  soon  into  much  milder 
climates ; whilst  at  a corresponding  altitude  to  Titicaca 
on  those  slopes,  alfalfa  and  other  fodder  may  be  grown. 
The  Titicaca  lake-basin  and  plateau  of  Peru  and  Bolivia 
forms  a peculiar  region,  in  many  respects.  It  is  a 
hydrographic  entity,  there  being  no  outlet  to  any  ocean 
from  the  system  constituted  by  the  various  lakes  — as 
Titicaca,  Arapa,  Poopo  (or  Aullagas),  etc.,  and  the  Desa- 
guadero  river.  It  is  a high,  bleak  region,  more  than 
12,500  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  It  produced  the 
Inca  civilisation — Titicaca  was  its  cradle.  It  also  produced 
the  alpaca  and  the  llama — the  latter  the  hoofed  ruminating 
quadruped,  the  small  and  humpless  camel  of  the  Andes, 
which  is  such  a factor  in  the  life  of  the  Peruvian  Indian, 
and  which  is  found  nowhere  outside  of  this  plateau 
except  in  comparatively  near-by  regions  where  it  has  been 
propagated  for  its  useful  qualities.  Titicaca  appears  to 
be,  also,  the  only  tin-bearing  region  of  South  America, 
principally  in  Bolivian  territory. 

Taking  into  consideration  all  the  available  informa- 
tion on  the  subject  of  the  existence  of  a civilisation  in 
the  Montana  it  seems  evident  that  any  such  that  existed 
or  any  remnants  that  still  exist,  have  been  connected  with 
the  Titicaca  centre — that  is,  of  the  Incas.  In  the  Report 
to  the  Peruvian  Government,  from  which  I have  before 
translated,  by  Von  Hassel,  made  in  February’,  1905,  is 
the  following : 

“ Among  certain  tribes,  the  contact  that  existed  with  the 
Inca  Empire  is  apparent,  as,  for  instance,  the  Machigangas, 
Campas,  Piros,  Conibos,  Shipibos,  Shetibos,  Aguarunas, 
and  Orejones.  This  evidence  of  contact  or  influence  may 
be  divided  into  three  classes : first,  the  tribes  which  were 
conquered  peoples  paying  tribute  to  the  great  empire 
(Inca);  second,  those  that  were  emigrants  from  the  great 
empire  in  post  - hispanic  days,  or  after  the  Spanish 


Group  of  Llamas  at  Railway  Station. 


Inca  Civilisation  in  the  Amazonian  Forests  253 


invasion  ; third,  those  that  were  subjects  of  the  great 
empire,  but  remained  in  the  Montana  after  their  con- 
quest. The  first  three  tribes  named  belong  to  the  first 
category;  to  the  second  the  Machiganga  of  the  Yavero 
and  Urubamba  rivers,  and  the  others  to  the  third. 

“ In  the  neighbourhood  of  Cumaria  and  Cipria,  on  the 
Upper  Ucayali,  there  are  found  buried  various  copper 
hatchets  similar  to  those  used  by  the  Inca  warriors.  In 
the  neighbourhood  of  Pangoa  (as  before  mentioned)  there 
is  a chiselled  rock  with  an  image  of  the  Sun  and  the 
Moon.  On  celebrating  their  feasts  the  Campas  Indians 
paint  these  images  with  the  same  colours  which  they  use 
for  their  faces. 

“ All  the  historians  of  Peru  speak,  in  their  narratives, 
of  a mysterious  country — the  great  Paititi,  citing  various 
Inca  and  Spanish  expeditions  which  have  sought  this 
marvellous  land.  The  present  generation  places  these 
narratives  among  the  legends  in  which  the  history  of 
Peru  is  rich,  for  from  first  to  last  no  trace  of  Paititi  has 
been  discovered,  notwithstanding  the  incalculable  value 
which  such  might  have  given  of  a contact  with  the  Inca 
Empire.  In  one  of  my  expeditions  on  the  Amazon  I 
visited  the  great  island  of  Tumpinambaranas,  where  great 
ruins  show  a civilisation  like  that  of  the  Incas.  The  ties 
that  the  inhabitants  of  this  island  had  with  the  Sierra 
(the  uplands  of  the  Andes)  is  worthy  of  serious  study, 
which  might  possibly  throw  light,  not  only  upon  the 
great  Paititi,  but  even  upon  the  origin  of  the  first  Inca, 
Manco-Capac.  The  existence  and  antiquity  of  this  matter 
being  proved,  the  supposition  might  be  made  that  Manco- 
Capac  was  an  emigrant  from  this  island,  and  that  he 
founded  his  habitation  in  the  island  of  Lake  Titicaca, 
afterwards.” 

The  island  of  Tumpinambaranas  is  formed  by  an  arm 
of  the  Madera  river  with  the  Amazon,  and  is  210  miles 
long,  with  an  area  of  950  square  miles.  Whilst  I give 
these  opinions  for  what  they  may  be  valued  at,  they 
show  how  much  there  still  remains  to  discover  and 
investigate  regarding  the  Inca  civilisation,  and  how 
unwise  it  is  to  form  a conclusive  judgment  yet.  Plere 
are  these  ruins  on  the  Amazon,  in  the  very  heart  of 
South  America,  on  this  fluvial  island  of  the  Amazon, 
nearly  2,000  miles  away  from  Lake  Titicaca,  the  centre  of 
the  Inca  civilisation.  Have  they  any  connection  there- 


254 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


with  ? The  writer  previously  quoted  says,  and  his  views 
are  the  result  of  much  observation  : 

“ A study  of  these  tribes  conduces  to  the  theory  that 
the  invasion  of  the  pampas  or  plains  of  the  Amazon, 
after  they  were  transformed  from  a sea  into  a habitable 
region  for  human  beings,  receives  its  first  impulse  from 
the  slopes  of  the  Brazilian  Cordillera  (Serra),  and  of  the 
Cordilleras  of  Peru,  Equador,  and  Colombia.  In  subse- 
quent epochs  there  existed  various  civilisations  which 
have  disappeared,  the  most  modern  among  them  being 
that  of  the  Incas  in  Serra  Tumpinambaranas,  and  the  great 
Chaco,  which  had  influence  in  the  development  of  these 
tribes,  there  existing  fragments  of  these  civilisations 
among  them,  although  they  are  at  present  delivered  over 
to  savagery.” 

Chaco  is  mentioned  in  the  account  previously  quoted 
of  Baron  Nordenskold,  who  says: 

“ On  my  former  travels  in  Chaco,  in  Argentina,  I also 
found  large  dwelling-places  in  the  primeval  forests  beyond 
the  real  Calchaqui  territory,  in  districts  at  present  very 
sparsely  inhabited.  It  would  be  very  interesting  to 
institute  researches  with  a view  of  ascertaining  whether 
very  large  ranges  east  of  the  Andes,  at  present  inhabited 
by  more  or  less  wandering  tribes,  were  not  formerly 
occupied  by  a settled  population  of  far  higher  standing 
than  that  now  dwelling  there.” 

Then  follows  the  passage  I have  previously  quoted  in 
this  chapter,  regarding  the  Peruvian  Pacific  coast  sea- 
shells  found  at  Chaco. 

And  here  I may  close  this  chapter  and  subject  with  a 
summary  of  the  ideas  expressed  regarding  the  origin  of  the 
Incas,  and  a comment  thereon  as  proposed  in  the  chapter 
on  the  Inca  civilisation.  It  is  by  no  means  uncommon 
among  the  Peruvians  of  the  “ Sierra  ” or  uplands  to  hear 
expressed  the  belief  that  the  Incas  and  the  Cholos  might 
have  had  a Mongolian — Japanese  or  Chinese — origin,  as 
indeed  one  theory  of  this  origin  sets  forth,  of  a stranded 
Chinese  vessel  on  the  Peruvian  coast  in  the  reign  of  Kubla 
Khan.  Is  there  any  actual  resemblance  between  the 
present  indigenous  inhabitants  of  Peru  and  a Mongolian 
race.  I must  admit  that  I have  often  observed  an  appear- 


Inca  Civilisation  in  the  Amazonian  Forests  2 55 


ance  in  the  form  of  the  eye  which  gave  such  a resemblance. 
There  is  also  the  queue,  or  pigtail,  customary  among  the 
Quechua  and  Aymara  Cholos  of  the  uplands  ; and  lastly, 
an  abundance  of  names  of  places  which  seem  to  have, 
when  properly  pronounced,  a Chinese  sound.  Examples 
of  these  are  “ Puntou,”  and  “ Punchao  ” 1 — villages  on  the 
Upper  Maranon  ; also  “Tonquini”  in  the  Montana,  and 
many  others  of  which  I have  lost  my  notes.  It  is  remark- 
able also  how  easily  the  Chinamen  immigrants  assimilate 
with  the  Cholos,  as  if  they  were  kin  in  some  way.  But 
these  reflections  I only  give  for  what  they  are  worth. 

As  to  the  marine  emblems  of  the  Incas,  this  furnishes  a 
strong  “ clue  ” whereby  to  follow  their  origin,  which  some 
writers  aver  may  yet  be  traceable  through  Easter  Island, 
New  Zealand,  and  to  Asia.  Again,  so  far  east  as  the 
Amazonian  island  before  described  in  Brazil,  and  in  places 
in  Argentina,  are  evidences  which  may  be  threads  for 
investigation,  and  the  question  naturally  occurs — if  from 
the  Amazon,  which  is  navigable  from  the  Atlantic,  why  not 
Europe  ? And  so  forth. 

There  lies,  then,  this  fascinating  field  for  archaeological 
investigation.  The  indications  which  point  the  way  seem 
to  have  been  few,  but  they  may  be  more  plentiful  than  has 
been  supposed  heretofore.  They  are  largely  written  in 
stone,  and  stamped  in  memory  and  tradition,  but  it  is  a 
fortunate  condition  of  ethnological  research  that  the  farther, 
in  time,  that  we  recede  from  the  events  of  history,  the 
clearer  our  vision  becomes,  and  the  more  trustworthy  are 
the  links  which  complete  the  chain  of  evidence. 


1 This  is  also  a Quechua  word  meaning  “sun ” and  “ eye.” 


CHAPTER  XXV 


THE  MONTANA  AND  THE  AMAZON 

The  Montafia ! What  a perspective  this  single  word  opens 
up  to  the  mind  of  the  traveller  who  understands  its  signi- 
fication ! What  a charm,  what  awe  it  conveys  ; shrouded 
in  mystery,  adventure,  silence,  romance — the  attributes  of 
the  limitless  in  Nature  when  sentient  man  enters ! 

The  word  conjures  up  to  my  vision  those  illimitable 
valleys  of  forest-seas ; I can  almost  hear  the  patter  of  rain- 
drops on  leaves ; can  almost  smell  the  odour  of  foliage,  and 
see  the  mist-billows  which  roll  onward  and  upward  before 
the  rising  sun  to  break  and  fade  against  the  summits  of  the 
Cordillera.  I can  feel  the  hunger,  again,  of  forced  marches 
on  short  rations  ; the  fatigue  of  long  leagues  passed  over  ; 
the  exhilaration  of  the  morning  air  as  with  elastic  step  1 
trod  those  solitudes ; and  the  repose  of  sunset  camps  far 
in  the  heart  of  those  strange  regions.  Again  I stand  upon 
some  eminence  and  with  shading  hand  survey  those  end- 
less bosques  traversed  by  endless  rivers  and  scarcely-per- 
ceptible  trails,  before  plunging  into  the  leafy  depths  ; and 
again  1 feel  the  rapture  which  the  true  lover  of  Nature 
experiences  when  alone  with  her  in  her  solitudes. 

What  is  the  Montafia?  The  word  does  not  itself 
convey  its  meaning.  The  Montafia  of  South  America — 
that  is,  of  Peru,  Bolivia,  Ecuador,  Colombia,  Brazil — is 
not  the  region  of  the  mountains,  but  the  region  of  the 
forests.  By  the  Montafta  is  meant  that  vast  territory  to 
the  east  of  the  Andes,  beginning  at  the  line  of  vegetation 
upon  their  eastern  slopes  and  base,  extending  throughout 
all  that  enormous  region  of  rivers  and  forests  upon  the 
great  affluents  of  the  Amazon  — the  Marafion,  Huallaga, 

256 


The  Edge  of  the  Montana 
From  sketch  made  by  the  Author. 


The  Montana  and  the  Amazon  257 

Ucayali,  Madre  de  Dios,  and  others — and  thence  right  into 
the  heart  of  Brazil,  and  up  to  the  plains  of  Argentina. 

The  Andes  are  left  far  behind  as  you  penetrate  these 
forests  ; they  remain  only  as  a memory  in  your  mind  ; 
you  cannot  even  see  them  now  ; and  in  this  soft,  moist 
climate  of  the  tropical  Montana  it  seems  impossible  that 
you  had  ever  battled  with  icy  gales,  crossed  everlasting 
snow-fields,  and  stopped  short  for  lack  of  breath  and  want 
of  oxygen  miles  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  You  are  in 
another  world. 

The  Montana  is  a great  and  palpable  matter,  to  be 
conquered  by  intrepid  man.  The  attacks  upon  it  have 
extended  from  pre-Columbian  days  ; they  have  multiplied 
of  late  years,  and  the  great  region  is  being  explored, 
traversed,  learnt  and  mapped,  although  there  still  remain 
some  portions  which  have  scarcely  yet  been  trodden  by 
the  foot  of  civilised  man,  and  some  which  are  still  marked 
“ unexplored.” 

The  conquest  of  the  Montana  is  a great  and  standing 
matter  for  the  Peruvians.  The  best  part  of  their  territory, 
perhaps,  is  contained  in  these  little-known  regions,  and  the 
more  enterprising  of  their  Governments  and  Prefects  are 
constantly  sending  out  expeditions  thereto.  A pamphlet 
recently  issued  (1905)  by  the  Lima  Geographical  Society, 
and  presented  to  me  by  its  author,  Senor  Ricardo  Rosell,  a 
Peruvian  who  has  travelled  much  in  his  country,  contains 
in  a succinct  form  the  various  expeditions  from  remote 
times  until  the  present,  which  have  been  made  to  bring 
the  Montana  under  the  dominion  of  knowledge  and  civilisa- 
tion. I will  translate  some  details  from  this  pamphlet : 

“ As  one  of  the  first  centres  of  the  hemisphere, 
and  seat  of  the  power  of  the  Colonial  Government, 
Peru  necessarily  enjoyed  a vast  heritage  in  the  distri- 
bution of  the  Amazonian  region,  with  its  enormous 
network  of  tributary  rivers.  This  heritage,  however, 
is  not  a gratuitous  one ; it  carries  with  it  the  arduous 
mission  of  profiting  by  it.  The  Peruvian  Orient,  with 
its  thousands  and  thousands  of  square  leagues  of 
territory,  full  of  promise  and  mysteries,  offers  a con- 
junction of  problems,  pregnant  with  obstacles  and 

R 


258  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

sown  with  dangers.  There  Nature  reigns  as  absolute 
monarch,  surrounded  by  all  the  barriers  of  a primitive 
world.  Impenetrable  woods,  torrential  rains  such  as 
those  of  the  Deluge ; and  man,  self-styled  King  of 
creation,  finds  himself  there  but  a weak  and  impotent 
being,  scarcely  capable  of  overcoming  the  difficulties 
She  opposes  to  his  advance.  But  the  Orient  is  no 
longer  an  unknown  problem ; for  its  development  Peru 
has  done  much  : has  spent  great  efforts  and  vast  sums.” 

The  first  expedition  to  the  region  of  which  any 
knowledge  exists  is  given  as  that  of  the  Inca  Sinchi 
Roca,  successor  to  Manco  Capac,  in  the  year  1136,  who 
penetrated  to  the  river  Caya  - huaya,  where  gold  was 
found.  It  is  to  be  recollected  that  the  Inca  regime  did 
not  control  these  regions,  or  it  is  generally  so  considered. 
The  tribes  under  their  rule  stopped  at  those  of  the 
Andean  plateau,  and  did  not  include  the  savages  of  the 
forests.  But  I have  fully  discussed  the  question  of  Inca 
occupation  of  and  influence  in  the  Montana  in  a former 
chapter. 

“In  1300  another  of  the  Incas — Inca  Roca — charged 
his  son  with  the  conquest  of  Paucartambo,  one  of  the 
regions  of  the  Montafta,  and  in  1450  the  Inca  Tupac 
Yupanqui  visited  the  Madre  de  Dios  river.  This  com- 
pletes the  absolute  knowledge  of  the  operations  of  the 
Incas  in  the  Montafia. 

“In  1500  Vicente  Pinzon,  a Spaniard,  leaving  the 
port  of  Palos,  arrived  at  the  mouth  of  the  Maranon 
(Amazon)  upon  the  coast  of  Brazil.  This  afforded  the 
first  notice  in  Europe  of  the  existence  of  these  great 
rivers  of  South  America.  In  1535  the  Inca  Manco 
left  Cuzco  for  the  Yucay  valley  to  attack  the  Spanish 
Conquistadores  and,  being  defeated,  took  refuge  in  the 
Montafta.” 

From  that  date  until  1550  some  fourteen  names  of 
Spaniards  are  given,  who  conducted  expeditions  to  the 
forests,  attacked  Indians,  established  towns  and  settle- 
ments, and  navigated  the  rivers. 

Then,  from  1556  to  1822,  during  the  Colonial  period, 
are  given  the  names  of  a large  number  of  explorers  and 
travellers,  scientists,  filibusters,  priests,  royal  emissaries, 


The  Montana  and  the  Amazon 


259 


engineers,  buccaneers,  and  others,  with  brief  accounts  of 
their  exploits  in  the  penetration  of  virgin  forests,  naviga- 
tion of  unknown  rivers,  conquests  of  Indians,  discoveries 
of  mines,  establishing  of  missions,  making  of  surveys 
and  maps,  and  so  forth  : nearly  three  hundred  years  of 
striving,  sometimes  futile,  sometimes  fruitful,  within  this 
remarkable  land.  What  a history  they  tell  of  struggle, 
enterprise,  hardship,  enthusiasm,  faith,  wickedness,  greed, 
avarice,  love  of  Nature  and  of  conquest,  sacrifice,  toil 
and  bravery ! Think  of  what  they  endured  : their  setting 
forth  ; their  hunger,  thirst,  wounds,  fatigue ; crowned  by 
the  joy  of  success,  or  obliterated  by  the  pall  of  failure. 
Many  of  them  sleep  beneath  the  forest  fastnesses  they 
strove  to  dominate.  All  have  passed,  units  of  history, 
dots  and  dashes  on  the  scroll  of  Time ! 

From  1822  to  the  present  day  — the  Republican 
period — are  given  more  and  numerous  lists  of  explorers, 
missionaries,  merchants,  colonisers,  and  others,  who  have 
carried  on  the  work  of  conquest.  The  sword,  the  cross, 
the  stake,  the  book  and  cassock,  the  royal  mandate,  have 
been  succeeded  by  the  truer  implements  of  civilisation 
— the  axe,  the  theodolite,  the  rifle.  The  roadmaker,  the 
Colonist,  and  the  Engineer  have  ousted  the  priest  and 
the  filibuster,  and  now  the  greed  of  commerce  usurps  the 
greed  of  conquest. 

It  is  a dangerous  thing  to  venture  forth  too  lightly 
into  the  Montana,  or  without  due  preparation.  On  one 
occasion  I was  obliged  to  make  forced  marches  extend- 
ing over  several  days,  living  upon  boiled  rice — no  other 
provisions  remaining — and  to  this  day  rice  is  unpalatable 
to  me.  Had  I not  done  this  I might  have  perished  of 
hunger.  During  my  stay  in  Arequipa  a journey  was 
made  into  the  Montana  of  Paucatambo  by  an  ex-Prefect 
of  the  Department  of  Cuzco — Colonel  Fernandez — with 
his  son,  a young  boy.  They  lost  their  way,  and  both 
perished  of  hunger  and  fatigue,  as  well  as  several  of 
their  attendants.  I saw  a portion  of  the  diary  they  kept, 
and  which  had  been  completed  by  one  of  their  servants. 
It  recorded  their  struggles  day  after  day  to  find  the 


260 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


right  way : the  hunger  they  endured ; the  thirst — for, 
strange  as  it  may  seem  in  so  well-watered  a region,  they 
suffered  from  want  of  water.  This  was  due  to  the  fact 
that  the  only  possible  ways  sometimes  lie  along  the 
ridges ; and  whilst  water  can  be  heard  flowing  in  the 
valleys  below,  it  is  impossible  to  approach  it,  due  to 
sheer  declivities  or  impenetrable  forest  on  the  verge.  At 
length  both  father  and  son  succumbed  to  exhaustion  and 
fatigue,  and  lay  down  to  die,  whilst  a few  survivors 
struggled  on  and  reached  a settlement. 

The  feeling  which  overtakes  the  traveller  who  is  lost 
in  a forest,  at  the  moment  when  he  realises  it,  is  hardly 
describable.  Some  men  have  been  known  to  become  insane, 
and  to  lose  their  power  of  reflection  altogether,  dashing 
onwards  like  a frightened  horse  with  no  idea  save  that 
of  instant  escape.  I retain  vivid  recollections  of  losing 
my  way  in  an  almost  unknown  forest,  and  of  experiencing 
the  exceedingly  unpleasant  sensation  of  returning  to  a 
spot  which  seemed  familiar — why?  because  I had  left  it 
a few  hours  ago  in  endeavouring  to  find  the  proper  way ! 
But  the  only  method  under  such  circumstances  is  to 
retain  one’s  calmness,  and  to  follow  the  indication  which 
due  reflection  may  suggest  as  advisable.  As  to  walking 
in  a circle,  such  as  seems  to  happen  at  times  in  such 
situations,  there  is  little  difficulty  in  keeping  a course 
by  proper  observation  of  objects  before  and  behind  one, 
supposing  no  compass  to  be  at  hand  or  heavenly  bodies 
observable.  Topographical  considerations  are  often  useful : 
sloping  ground  means  that  a rivulet  may  be  encountered 
soon,  and  rivulets  lead  into  streams,  which  fall  into  rivers, 
and  it  is  seldom  that  a path  or  trail  of  some  description 
is  not  encountered  near  the  margin  of  these. 

But  it  is  exceedingly  depressing  to  be  lost  in  a forest 
If  there  is  any  choice,  it  is  preferable  to  be  lost  in  the 
• mountains.  You  can,  at  least,  see  where  you  are  going, 
and  ascend  points  for  observation  purposes,  although  the 
exertion  is,  naturally,  more  fatiguing. 

The  area  contained  within  the  Peruvian  Montafta 
occupies  two-thirds  of  the  territory  of  the  Republic,  and 


The  Montana  and  the  Amazon 


261 


extends  from  the  frontiers  of  Ecuador  and  Colombia 
in  the  north  to  that  of  Bolivia  in  the  south.  Its  eastern 
limit  is  the  Montana  or  selvas  of  Brazil,  and  its  western 
the  slopes  of  the  Peruvian  Andes,  up  which  it  reaches 
to  an  elevation — the  limit  of  forest  vegetation — of  about 

11.000  feet.  This  is  equivalent,  roughly,  to  a length  of 

1.000  miles,  with  a width  varying  from  200  to  700  miles. 
Of  this  region  very  little  — a mere  fraction  — is  under 
cultivation,  or,  indeed,  under  ownership — except  that  of 
the  State,  and  is  scarcely  traversed  in  its  more  remote 
portions  except  by  the  various  tribes  of  Indians,  and  the 
india-rubber  gatherers  on  the  affluents  of  the  Amazon. 
Part  of  it  is,  in  fact,  unexplored  and  unmapped.  It 
consists  of  (1)  land  broken  up  by  foot-hills  and  rolling 
ground,  generally  covered  with  forest ; (2)  vast  open 
plains  covered  with  grass,  such  as  the  Sacramento  pampa  ; 
and  (3)  regions  of  almost  impenetrable  forest. 

The  principal  rivers  which  traverse  this  region  are 
all  affluents  of  the  Amazon.  The  Maranon,  Huallaga, 
Apurimac,  Ucayali,  and  their  tributaries  are  those  which 
feel  the  topographical  influence  of  the  Andes,  flowing 
more  or  less  parallel  with  the  chain  (although  at  vast 
distances  away  from  it)  in  a north-westerly  direction. 
The  last-named,  for  example,  is  something  like  200 
miles  away,  eastwardly,  from  the  axis  of  the  Cordillera ; 
yet  parallel  to  it.  These  four  great  arteries  all  fall  into 
and  form  the  Amazon  in  Peruvian  territory,  their  common 
course  then  charging  to  the  north-east,  or  at  right  angles 
to  their  former  direction.  The  rivers  Madre  de  Dios 
or  Madera,  the  Purus,  the  Yurua,  and  the  Yavari,  also 
run  north-east  or  normal  to  the  system  of  the  first  four 
named,  and  fall  into  the  main  Amazonian  stream  outside 
Peruvian  territory. 

Another  series  of  affluents  descends  from  the  north- 
west, flowing  south-eastwardly,  and  fall  into  the  main 
stream  of  the  Amazon,  which  is  known  also  at  this  part  of 
its  course  as  the  Maranon.  The  principal  of  these  are  the 
Morona,  Pastasa,  Tigre,  Napo,  Putumayo,  and  Yapura. 
All  these,  with  the  exception  of  the  two  last,  join  the 


262 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


common  stream  in  Peruvian  territory ; but  part  of  the 
region  through  which  they  rise  and  flow  is  that  under 
dispute  and  arbitration  between  Ecuador  and  Peru. 

The  Amazon  and  its  affluents  constitute  the  largest 
river  system  in  the  world.  The  navigable  portions  of 
the  whole  system  are  exceedingly  extensive,  and  more 
than  20,000  miles  are  in  Peruvian  territory.  This  20,000 
miles  becomes  10,000  for  a portion  of  the  year,  in  flood 
times,  for  steam  launches  and  canoes. 

Beginning  with  the  most  westerly  of  these  great 
affluents,  the  Maranon,  nearest  the  Andes,  the  furthest 
navigable  point  is  just  below  the  Pongo  de  Manseriche . 
The  word  pongo  means  “rapids,”  and  these  remarkable 
rapids  prevent  navigation  up  the  Marafton  beyond  that 
point,  except  by  means  of  canoes  and  rafts.  These  latter 
are  worthy  of  special  mention,  and  are  spoken  of  later. 
The  beginning  of  steam  navigation  below  the  rapids, 
known  as  Port  Melendez,  near  Borja,  and  also  Port  Limon, 
slightly  lower  down,  is,  remarkable  as  it  may  seem,  only 
about  225  miles  in  a direct  line  from  the  Pacific  coast, 
straight  across  the  Andes  as  the  crow  flies.  And  here 
I must  speak  of  the  project  I have]  endeavoured  to  carry 
out  for  a railway  to  unite  these  points — the  Pacific  Ocean 
and  the  Amazon  river — and  which  will  best  be  described 
by  extracts  from  the  preliminary  report  I drew  up  for  the 
purpose,  which  I have  previously  quoted,  and  which  I here 
repeat,  as  follows  : 

“ A great  trans-continental  route  of  travel  across 
South  America  will  be  created  by  the  building  of  a 
railway,  uniting  a seaport  on  the  Pacific  coast  of  Peru, 
with  the  navigable  head-waters  of  the  river  Amazon. 
It  is  a fact  little  grasped  by  Europeans  that  the  vast 
fluvial  ways  of  the  Amazon  penetrate  right  through  the 
great  continent  of  South  America  up  to  the  foot  of  the 
Andes,  and  that  steam  navigation  for  nearly  3,000  miles 
can  be  carried  on  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean  to  within  some 
225  miles  of  the  Pacific.  The  port  which  it  is  proposed 
to  make  the  western  terminus  of  the  line  is  Payta,  a 
fine  land-locked  harbour  in  the  northern  part  of  Peru. 
Leaving  this  port  and  going  eastwardly,  the  line  will 
traverse  the  flat  coast  - zone,  and  reach  the  Andes — 


The  Montana  and  the  Amazon  263 

ascending  which  it  will  cross  the  summit  at  an  altitude 
above  sea-level  of  about  6,600  feet,  by  means  of  a pass 
which  seems  almost  to  have  been  made  by  Nature  in 
order  that  man  might  create  a way  of  travel  between  the 
world’s  greatest  ocean  and  largest  river,  crossing  one  of 
the  greatest  mountain  ranges  on  the  globe.  Descending 
thence,  the  line  will  run  to  its  eastern  terminus  where  the 
Maranon  forms  the  mighty  Amazon,  near  a place  called 
Port  Limon,  and  where  steam  navigation  begins : so 
finishing  the  line  of  communication  which  Nature  has 
made  in  her  vast  natural  canal,  the  Amazon — some  3,000 
miles  of  river  navigation  from  the  Atlantic  coast.” 

This  is  an  alluring  project — one  of  the  great  things  in 
railway  work  yet  remaining  to  be  done,  giving  outlet  to 
the  great  natural  wealth  of  a virgin  continent,  and  open- 
ing up  to  civilisation  those  vast  and  wonderful  regions  of 
which  Humboldt  spoke  long  ago,  and  which  continue  to 
fire  the  imagination  of  all  subsequent  travellers. 


CHAPTER  XXVI 


THE  MONTANA  AND  THE  AMAZON — Continued 

CONTINUING  the  description  of  Peru’s  navigable  rivers 
in  the  Amazonian  basin,  a glance  at  the  map  will  render 
clear  the  whole  network  or  system.  The  position  of  the 
important  river  port  of  Iquitos  will  also  be  observed,  and 
it  is  here,  right  in  the  heart  of  the  continent,  that  ocean 
steamers  from  Liverpool 1 and  Hamburg  arrive. 

The  portions  which  are  navigable  of  the  various  rivers 
already  enumerated,  from  the  farthest  point  of  navigation 
inland,  for  steamers,  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  are 
described  below.  It  is  to  be  recollected  that  some  of 
these  rivers  rise  and  fall  considerably,  according  to  season 
and  rainfall,  and  that  very  long  stretches  in  addition  are 
navigable  in  rafts,  canoes,  and  small  launches  above  the 
points  given,  for  long  distances,  sometimes  divided  by 
rapids. 

The  Amazon. — From  Iquitos  eastwardly  to  the 
Atlantic  Ocean  steamers  ply  regularly  through  Brazil  to 
the  Coast  From  Iquitos  westwardly  or  up  stream 
similar  ocean  steamers  ascend  to  the  confluence  of  the 
Ucayali  with  the  Marafton.  The  current  runs  at  about 
2 or  3 miles  an  hour.  The  depth  is  4 fathoms  minimum. 

The  Marafton. — Navigable  at  all  seasons  for  steamers 
of  4 to  8 feet  draught,  as  far  as  Port  Melendez,  near 
Borja,  about  480  miles. 

The  Huallaga. — Navigable  at  all  seasons  for  steamers 
of  4 to  8 feet  draught  to  beyond  Yurimaguas,  about 
150  miles. 

The  Ucayali  and  affluents. — The  Lower  Ucayali  is 
navigable,  as  far  as  the  confluence  of  the  Pachitea,  for 

1 Booth  Line  steamers. 

264 


The  Amazon  at  Iquitos 


The  Montana  and  the  Amazon 


265 


steamers  of  6 feet  draught,  and  for  smaller  ones  to 
Port  Bermudez,  a total  distance  from  Iquitos  of  about 
930  miles.  The  Pachitea  is  navigable  throughout  the 
year  for  launches  of  not  more  than  2\  feet  draught, 
and  the  Palcasu,  its  head  - waters,  for  those  of  3 feet 
draught,  as  far  as  Port  Mayro ; whilst  the  Pichis  may 
be  ascended  in  flood  times  by  steamers  drawing  4 feet 
of  water,  and  in  the  dry  season  is  scarcely  navigable. 
The  Upper  Ucayali  is  navigable  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Pachitea,  against  a strong  current,  for  launches  of 
3 feet  draught  as  far  as  Tambo,  and  in  all  seasons. 
The  Urubamba  is  navigable  for  3-feet  draught  steamers 
for  a length  of  100  miles.  This  last  point  is  at  a dis- 
tance of  more  than  1,000  miles  from  Iquitos,  including 
the  windings  of  the  course ; and  the  whole  of  the 
Ucayali  and  its  tributaries  embodies  a vast  system  of 
waterways  whose  importance  can  only  be  grasped  from 
maps  or  travel. 

The  Madre  de  Dios  and  affluents. — The  Madre  de 
Dios  is  navigable  in  flood  times  throughout  its  tortuous 
course  for  launches  of  4 feet  draught,  for  about  600 
miles,  against  a strong  current,  and  is  dangerous  in 
times  of  low  water  from  floating  timber  and  shallows. 
The  Manu  is  navigable  throughout  the  year  for  launches 
of  3 to  4 feet  draught  as  far  as  the  Surtiteja,  and  for 
3 -feet  boats  up  to  Shawinto,  and  the  Tambopata  for 
similar  boats  in  times  of  high  water,  as  far  as  the 
confluence  of  the  Huancamayo.  Not  far  from  here 
is  Port  Markham,  near  to  which  point  I arrived  in 
my  expedition,  described  elsewhere,  to  Sandia  and 
Carabaya.  Portions  of  this  great  river  system  belong 
to  Peru,  Bolivia,  and  Brazil,  respectively. 

The  Purus. — This  beautiful  river,  as  well  as  its 
principal  affluents,  affords  tranquil  navigation  to  its 
head  - waters  for  all  kinds  of  craft,  from  4 to  8 feet 
draught,  during  flood  times,  but  is  more  difficult  at 
low-water  seasons  on  account  of  shallows.  The  higher 
portion,  which  belongs  to  Peru,  contains  about  950 
miles  out  of  its  1,700  miles  of  navigable  water. 


266 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


The  Yurua. — This  magnificent,  though  tortuous  river, 
which  in  its  upper  part  belongs  to  Peru,  affords  tranquil 
navigation  to  launches  throughout  a considerable  distance 
during  times  of  high  water. 

The  Putumayo,  Napo,  Tigre,  and  Morona  rivers, 
which  descend  from  the  region  north  of  the  Marafion 
and  Amazon,  are  all  navigable  for  considerable  distances 
— many  hundreds  of  miles — for  steam-launches  drawing 
from  3 to  6 feet  of  water. 

Of  course,  in  the  present  incomplete  state  of  explora- 
tion and  knowledge  of  all  this  vast  system  of  rivers 
and  streams,  it  is  only  possible  to  state  length  and  con- 
ditions approximately,  as  regards  some  of  them.  The 
following  list,  which  includes  the  foregoing,  is  the  most 
complete  that  has  yet  been  made  of  these  rivers,  and 
the  particulars  therein  contained  are  of  considerable 
geographical  importance.  The  list  has  been  carefully  com- 
piled in  Lima  from  the  latest  data  obtainable,  from  the 
Lima  Geographical  Society  and  other  official  bodies,  by 
Sefior  Alejandro  Garland,  the  Peruvian  geographer  and 
statistician,  and  sent  me  for  publication. 

As  previously  stated,  navigation  in  certain  places  on 
these  rivers  depends  upon  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  water, 
due  to  season  ; and  a vast  difference  is  brought  about 
by  this,  for  in  flood  times  the  aggregate  total  length 
of  navigable  course  is  as  much  as  10,000  miles  for 
steamers  drawing  from  20  to  2 feet  of  water ; whilst 
in  the  dry  season  this  falls  to  about  5,800  miles,  for 
similar  craft  The  total  navigable  length  for  smaller  craft, 
as  canoes  and  rafts,  may  be  taken  at  double  the  above 
figures,  or  say  20,000  miles,  in  times  of  flood.  Here 
is,  then,  an  enormous  network  of  navigable  arteries,  which 
penetrate  into  the  most  remote  parts  of  the  Peruvian 
Montafia.  These  figures  are  for  Peruvian  territory  alone. 
Those  rivers,  such  as  the  Huallaga,  Ucayali,  Yavari,  and 
others,  which  fall  into  the  Marafion  and  Amazon  on  its 
southern  side  are  subject  to  their  lowest  periods  in 
August  and  September;  whilst,  on  the  contrary,  those 
which  enter  from  the  north,  as  the  Putumayo,  Napo, 


The  Montafia  and  the  Amazon 


267 


Tigre,  etc.,  are  at  their  lowest  periods  in  February  and 
March.  This  compensating  condition  of  these  great 
affluents  tends  to  preserve  a certain  equilibrium  in  the 
main  stream  of  the  Amazon.  The  lowest  period  of  the 
Maranon  is  from  October  to  December. 

The  following  is  the  list  of  these  rivers,  with  their 
navigable  lengths  in  the  corresponding  periods,  and  the 
draught  of  steamers  or  launches  which  may  ply  thereon. 
This  is  for  Peruvian  territory  alone  : 1 


HIGH-WATER  PERIOD 
For  steamers  of  20  feet  draught 

River.  Navigable  length. 

Amazon  (Peruvian)  . . Total  . 422  miles 


For  steamers  of  4 to  8 feet  draught 


Maranon,  to  Port  Limon  .... 

484 

miles 

Yapura  (Peruvian),  to  Cachuela  Cupati 

124 

•n 

Putumayo  (Peruvian),  from  Cotuhe  to  Igaraparana  285 

>> 

Yavari,  to  Galvez  ..... 

546 

» 

Napo,  to  Aguarico  ..... 

558 

Tigre,  to  the  confluence  of  the  Cunambo-Pintuyacu  415 

)> 

Huallaga,  to  Yurimaguas  .... 

M3 

>* 

Lower  Ucayali  . 

868 

Pachitea  ...... 

217 

Yurua  (Peruvian),  from  Ipixuma  to  Amona 

2 73 

>> 

Purus  (Peruvian),  from  Labrea  to  Catay  . 

955 

Acre,  to  Irari  . . . . . 

223 

Curaray,  to  Cononaco  .... 

285 

Aguarico  ...... 

68 

Total 

5,444  miles 

For  steamers  of  2 to  4 feet  draught 

River.  Navigable  length. 

Maranon,  from  Port  Limon  to  the  Pongo  of 

Manseriche  . . . . . 

74  miles 

Putumayo  (Peruvian),  above  Igaraparana 

39i 

» 

Igaraparana  ...... 

205 

Mazan  ...... 

25 

Tamboryacu ...... 

12 

Cunambo  ...... 

37 

Pintuyacu  ...... 

37 

Corrientes  ...... 

99 

Carry  forward 

880  miles 

1 It  is  to  be  recollected  that  some  of  this  territory  is  in  dispute  with 
neighbouring  Republics. 


268  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

For  steamers  of  2 to  4 feet  draught — Continued 

River.  Navigable  length. 


Brought  forward 

880  miles 

Pucacuro 

37 

»» 

Pastaza,  to  Huasaga 

124 

»» 

Morona,  to  Manhuasisa 

310 

n 

Manhuasisa  . 

74 

»» 

Cangayma  . 

56 

M 

Potro 

12 

»• 

Apaga 

12 

II 

Cahuapanas  . 

19 

II 

Yavari,  from  Galvez  to  Paisandu 

242 

n 

Galvez,  affluent  of  the  Yavari 

3* 

•1 

Huallaga,  from  Yurimaguas  to  Achinamisa 

«7 

»• 

Aipena,  to  Naranja  Tambo 

56 

»* 

1 .tpuhe 

«55 

11 

Blanco,  affluent  of  Tapithe 

68 

it 

Tamaya,  from  Putaya 

99 

11 

Abujao 

6 

it 

Aguaitia 

62 

11 

Pichis,  to  Port  Bermudez 

93 

11 

Palcazu,  to  the  Pozuzo 

87 

it 

Upper  Ucayali 

3*o 

it 

Urubamba,  to  the  Mi  shag  ua 

105 

it 

Tambo 

105 

it 

Perene,  to  the  Pangoa 

6 

n 

CaspajaW 

14 

it 

Manu 

93 

i» 

Madre  de  Dios,  to  the  Manu 

601 

it 

Aquiri 

300 

it 

Acre,  above  Iran 

124 

11 

Total 

4.168  miles 

LOW-WATER  PERIOD 

For  steamers  of  20  feet  draught 

Amazon  (Peruvian)  . . Total 

422  miles 

For  steamers  of  4 to  8 feet  draught 
Maranon,  to  Port  Limon 
Yavari,  to  the  Yavari- Mirim 
Lower  Ucayali,  to  Contamana 
Purus  (Peruvian),  from  Labrea  to  Cachoreia 
Yurua  (Peruvian),  to  the  Moa 

4S4  miles 
. 3*6  „ 

. 620  „ 

*74  11 
93  »* 

Total 

1,687  miles 

Total 


The  Montana  and  the  Amazon 


269 


For  steamers  of  2 to  4 feet  draught 

River.  Navigable  length. 


Maranon,  from  Port  Limon  to  Pongo  of 


Manseriche  ..... 

74 

miles 

Huallaga,  to  Achinamisa  .... 

229 

55 

Lower  Ucayali,  from  Contamana  to  Pachitea 

248 

55 

Upper  Ucayali,  from  Pachitea  to  Cumaria 

186 

55 

Pachitea  ..... 

217 

55 

Putumayo  (Peruvian),  to  Igaraparana 

285 

55 

Tapiche  ...... 

155 

55 

Potro  ...... 

12 

55 

Cahuapanas  ...... 

12 

55 

Yavari,  from  Yavari-Mirim  to  Galvez 

229 

55 

Napo,  to  Aguarico  ..... 

496 

55 

Curaray,  to  Cononaco  .... 

285 

55 

Morona  to  Rarayacu  .... 

211 

55 

Pastaza  ...... 

3i 

55 

Tigre,  to  the  confluence  of  the  Cunambo  Pintuyacu 

415 

55 

Total  . 3,085  miles 


Such  are  the  names  and,  very  briefly,  the  characteristics 
of  those  main  arteries  of  the  Amazon  system  of  rivers 
which  rise  in  or  enter  Peru.  It  is  impossible  even  to 
mention  the  names  of  the  smaller  affluents  and  feeders 
which  fall  into  them.  What  unknown  regions  of  forests 
and  hills  do  they  not  penetrate?  What  a charm  there 
would  be  in  ascending  and  exploring  them ! What  a 
vast  extent  of  country  they  give  communication  to,  from 
the  Equator  down  to  the  thirteenth  parallel  of  south 
latitude,  and  thence  eastward  via  the  Brazilian  Amazon 
for  1,000  leagues  to  the  Atlantic — a system  of  natural 
canals  tapping  an  area — including  the  whole  river-basin 
of  the  Amazon  throughout  Peru,  Brazil,  Ecuador,  and 
Bolivia,  of  more  than  one-third  the  size  of  all  Europe. 
Here,  truly,  is  a storehouse  of  Nature  kept  in  reserve 
for  mankind’s  requirements  of  to-morrow. 

Peru  is  fortunate  in  her  possession  of  the  Montana  in 
that  it  embraces  the  Cabecera  de  Montana , or  the  long 
region  of  the  foot-hills  and  slopes  of  the  Andes,  which  is 
not  necessarily  tropical  in  character,  nor  of  too  hot  a 
climate.  The  elevation  of  this  region  is  from  10,000  or 
11,000  feet  to  about  3,000  feet  above  sea-level,  and 


270 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


includes  great  gold  - bearing  areas  and  india  - rubber 
producing  forests.  The  climate  in  the  upper  zone  is  such 
as  is  found  in  California  or  the  south  of  England,  except 
that  the  rainfall  is  heavier. 

Down  in  the  “ Montafia  real,”  or  region  of  true  forests 
belonging  to  Peru,  and  other  adjoining  countries,  the 
conditions  are  different.  The  dense  forests  are  but  little 
broken  by  hills,  and  the  only  means  of  travel  are  by 
navigation,  and  in  places  by  means  of  the  trochas  or 
cleared  trails,  made  by  the  rubber-gatherers.  As  regards 
navigation  in  canoes,  a remarkable  characteristic  of  some 
of  these  rivers  is  that  their  head-waters  approach  each 
other,  being  divided  only  by  a flat  isthmus  of  com- 
paratively small  extent,  places  which  are  known  as 
varaderos . Over  these  inter-fluvial  places  canoes  and 
their  contents  are  hauled  (making  a portage,  as  the 
land  passage  of  non-navigable  stretches  is  termed  in 
Canada),  and  so  communication  and  traffic  between  one 
river  system  and  another  is  accomplished.  One  of  the 
principal  of  these  varaderos  is  that  of  Fitzcarrald,  between 
the  river  Manu,  which  is  an  affluent  of  the  great  Madre  de 
Dios  and  Madera  rivers,  and  the  river  Serjali,  an  affluent 
of  the  Mishagua,  which  itself  is  part  of  the  Urubamba, 
flowing  into  the  Ucayali  river.  Between  these  river 
systems  and  the  Amazon  into  which  they  fall  is  enclosed 
a vast  parallelogram  of  territory  nearly  1,000  miles  long 
by  500  wide,  half  of  which  belongs  to  Peru  ; the  varadero , 
only  about  5 miles  long,  completing  the  enclosure.  Other 
varaderos  are  those  joining  affluents  of  the  rivers  Purus 
and  Yurua,  and  others,  to  affluents  of  the  Ucayali  river. 
The  importance  of  these  to  Peru  is  in  the  fact  that  the 
last-named  river  is  entirely  Peruvian,  whilst  the  Madre  de 
Dios,  Purus,  and  Yurua  are  only  so  in  part,  their  outlet  in 
the  Amazon  being  in  Brazil.  These  varaderos  are  most 
interesting  topographical  matters.  Canals  cut  through 
them  would,  in  some  cases,  complete  the  circuit  of 
thousands  of  miles  of  navigation  for  canoes,  and  canoe 
traffic  is  the  preferred  means  of  transport  of  the  rubber- 
gatherer.  Failing  this,  light  tramways  across  them  have 


The  Montana  and  the  Amazon 


271 


been  proposed  by  the  Peruvian  Government.  A varadero 
or  isthmus  is,  of  course,  the  divortia  aquarum  of  the  river 
systems  which  it  divides,  and  it  embodies  conditions  which 
naturally  can  only  exist  in  regions  of  heavy  rainfall.  The 
altitude  of  the  Fitzcarrald  isthmus  is  given  as  1,547  feet 
above  sea-level,  notwithstanding  its  enormous  distance 
from  the  Atlantic  into  which  these  rivers  flow,  which  it 
divides.  Valuable  discoveries  have  been  made,  due  to  the 
efforts  of  the  Lima  Geographical  Society,  regarding  these 
rivers  and  varaderos , recently,  as  to  their  true  course  in 
Peruvian  territory,  and  position. 

These  upper  regions  of  the  Montana  are  more  interest- 
ing and  invigorating  than  the  lower,  for  the  forest  fast- 
nesses are  sometimes  depressing  to  those  who  live  there. 
The  horizon  is  too  limited,  and  the  view  unchanging. 
The  walls  of  unbroken  forest  rise  on  each  side  of  the 
river  bank  and  small  clearings,  and  there  is  little  to 
disturb  the  monotony  of  the  scene.  Nature  is  oppressive 
here,  but  it  is  in  the  power  of  man  to  remedy  the  condi- 
tions, to  a certain  extent.  And  the  industrial  use  of  the 
region  will  be  enormous  in  the  future. 

The  Indian  tribes  which  inhabit  the  Montana  are  not 
always  savage  or  dangerous,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that 
tales  of  their  ferocity  have  been  exaggerated.  The  india- 
rubber-bearing  regions  are  being  prospected  and  opened 
up  a good  deal  in  places,  and  more  exact  knowledge 
gained  of  these  tribes.  An  article  from  a correspondent 
of  the  Comercio , a leading  newspaper  of  Lima,  written  in 
December  1905,  from  Port  Maldonado,  a place  at  the 
confluence  of  the  Tambopata  river  with  the  Madre  de 
Dios,  says : 

“ Some  comment  must  be  made  regarding  the  fantastic 
ideas,  not  only  of  vulgar,  but  of  educated  persons,  regard- 
ing this  region.  On  every  hand  they  imagine  they  see 
ferocious  Chunchos — their  quivers  full  of  poisoned  arrows  ; 
impassable  rapids,  and  the  diseases  of  suffocating  and 
unhealthy  climates  ; lack  of  personal  security  and  of  the 
necessaries  of  life.  To  come  to  the  Montana  is,  for  such, 
the  adventure  of  a madman  or  desperado.  But  nothing 
can  be  falser  than  this  pack  of  conjectures.  In  the  region 


272 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


of  the  Madre  de  Dios  travel  is  easy  by  navigation,  assisted 
by  these  same  ‘terrible  Chunchos/  who  are  in  reality 
good  and  hospitable  ; whilst  the  climate  is  healthy,  and 
entire  security  is  enjoyed.” 

Nevertheless,  in  other  parts  of  the  region  a study  of 
its  past  history  shows  that  savage  tribes  have  murdered 
explorers  and  wiped  out  settlements  whenever  they  were 
able  to  do  so.  Conditions  are,  however,  different  to-day. 
It  had  been  my  intention  to  make  some  expeditions  into 
these  more  remote  regions,  and  by  careful  enquiry  at  all 
available  sources  in  Peru,  I found  that  such  could  have 
been  accomplished  in  safety,  employing  care  and  circum- 
spection, and  by  arming  the  bearers  and  personnel  with 
carbines.  Gifts  of  trinkets  should  be  carried  for  presents 
or  barter.  A good  idea  of  travel  of  this  nature  will  be 
gathered  from  the  translation  which  I give  of  a portion  of 
a journey  published  in  the  Journal  of  the  Lima  Geographical 
Society.  This  journey  was  made  by  some  Peruvians  in 
1902,  and  the  route  followed  was  that  which  I have  spoken 
of  previously,  for  a projected  railway  from  the  Pacific  Coast 
at  Payta  to  the  navigable  head-waters  of  the  Amazon  or 
Marafton  at  Port  Limon.  Speaking  of  the  Province  of 
Jaen,  upon  the  river  Huancabamba  and  Upper  Marafton, 
the  narrator,  Seflor  Muro,  says : 

“ I have  known  this  Province  during  the  last  twenty 
years,  and  have  visited  it  many  times  in  the  pursuit  of 
business  in  quinine,  cocoa,  tobacco  and  cattle,  and  I con- 
sider it  the  richest  part  of  Peru.  It  possesses  five  large 
valleys ; the  rolling  hills  are  covered  with  rich  pasture,  and 
at  one  time  more  than  80,000  head  of  cattle  existed  there. 
At  present  all  these  fertile  places  are  almost  uninhabited, 
and  a profound  silence  reigns  there,  causing  one  to 
meditate  upon  what  a change  might  be  brought  about  by 
labour  and  intelligence.  The  value  of  land  and  property  is 
very  low.  I know  some  haciendas  which  can  maintain 
thousands  of  head  of  cattle,  whose  price  is  only  five  hundred 
sols  (£50).  I have  seen  extensive  places  of  this  nature 
rented  at  £20  per  annum.  The  lower  valleys  are  generally 
flat,  and  the  temperature  is  hot.  The  coffee  plant  grows 
to  an  extraordinary  size  ; the  tobacco  of  Jaen  has  a deserved 
fame  throughout  Peru,  and  yields  two  crops  per  annum, 


The  Montana  and  the  Amazon 


273 


and  as  for  cocoa,  the  soil  is  peculiarly  adapted  to  its  culti- 
vation. A poor  emigrant  I knew,  who  devoted  himself 
to  planting  cocoa  here  possesses  now  a plantation  of 
1 5,000  plants,  which  yield  him  a good  income.  For  days 
together  the  traveller  journeys  over  these  fertile  plains 
without  seeing  any  habitation  except  the  occasional  hut 
of  an  Indian.  These  places  are  adaptable  for  immigra- 
tion, but  roads  must  be  constructed  first.  Divers  classes 
of  timber  abound,  as  also  tropical  fruits,  quinine,  medicinal 
herbs,  vegetable  wax  and  ivory.  Some  day  the  world  will 
be  surprised  with  the  mineral  wealth  of  this  region,  also 
such  as  magnetic  iron  in  great  deposits,  copper  pyrites, 
silver,  gold,  coal,  salt,  lime,  etc. 

“ From  the  history  of  these  places  it  is  known  that  the 
Spaniards  worked  rich  gold  mines  there,  but  unfortunately 
civilisation  suffered  a blow  by  reason  of  the  rebellion  of 
the  Indians — the  Jibaros  and  Bracamoros — when  the  white 
population  was  nearly  exterminated. 

“ Since  then  little  has  been  done,  for  the  Spaniards, 
being  exposed  to  the  constant  attacks  of  the  warlike 
Jibaros,  left  these  rich  mines  in  abandonment,  from  which 
they  must  shortly  awake.  The  inhabitants  of  one  of  these 
valleys  are  principally  Mestizos,  and  are  distinguished  for 
their  idleness  and  vices.  Nature  has  given  them  such 
extraordinary  facilities  of  exuberant  resources  in  their 
fertile  soil,  that,  without  any  effort,  they  are  able  to 
live  and  indulge  in  licence  and  immorality,  principally 
drunkenness,  dancing  and  adultery.  They  are  generally 
of  weak  frame,  and  many  idiots  and  cotosos  are  found 
there.  The  inhabitants  of  Jaen,  on  the  contrary,  are 
distinguished  for  their  hospitality  and  a certain  sense  of 
honesty  which  they  display.” 

They  continued  their  journey,  fording  streams,  passing 
through  cocoa  and  rice  plantations,  navigating  rapids  in 
rafts  and  canoes  upon  the  Utcubamba  and  Maranon.  They 
make  especial  mention  of  the  abundance  of  india-rubber 
trees,  and  describe  some  of  the  Indian  inhabitants  of  the 
region,  as  follows : 

“ As  we  descended  the  river  we  approached  two  large 
Indian  houses  surrounded  by  savages,  among  them  a 
grotesquely  dressed  old  man  covered  with  cascabeles 
(the  tails  of  rattlesnakes),  which  had  been  given  him  by  the 
shiringuerosx  or  rubber- gatherers.  This  was  the  famous 

S 


274 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


Curaca  Antonio,  known  for  his  ferocity  and  bloody  instincts. 
He  received  us  courteously,  and  we  entered  one  of  the 
dwellings.  These  are  of  oval  form  ; the  walls  of  palm 
stems  and  the  roof  of  palm  leaves,  beautifully  woven,  j 
Inside  was  a stand  of  arms,  including  Winchester  rifles, 
guns,  and  lances  ; also  numerous  earthen  pots  and  plates.  \ 
Around  the  walls  were  arranged  the  beds,  formed  of  the 
elastic  stems  of  cane.  Tame  monkeys,  parrots,  dogs,  and 
hens  were  there. 

“ A curaca  is  the  owner  of  a dwelling,  and  these  are 
large,  and  contain  as  many  as  forty  persons  or  more.  These 
tribes  are  called  Aguarunas,  Antipas  and  Huambisas,  living 
all  along  the  Alto  Marafton  in  the  region  between  the  rapids 
and  the  affluents.  Notwithstanding  our  repeated  enquiries 
we  were  not  able  to  find  that  these  Indians  know  the  name 
of  their  nationality.  These  have  been  given  them  by  the 
whites,  or  Christians.  All  these  tribes,  who  live  in  continual 
and  sanguinary  war  among  themselves,  possess  the  same 
language  and  customs.  They  are  intelligent,  and  learn  with 
facility  whatever  they  are  shown.  It  is  probable  that  they 
are  descendants  of  the  great  nations  of  the  Jibaros  or 
Bracamoros. 

“ They  have  an  apparatus  for  communicating  at  dis- 
tances that  might  be  described  as  a species  of  1 wireless 
telegraphy.’  In  all  the  dwellings  there  are  dry,  hollow 
trunks  of  trees,  about  2 yards  long  and  J yard  in  diameter, 
with  five  holes  formed  therein,  diminishing  in  size. 
By  striking  this  curious  instrument  with  a stick  they  are 
able  to  communicate  to  long  distances.  I witnessed  a 
conversation  sustained  between  two  Indians  whose  dwell- 
ings were  situated  at  least  500  yards  apart,  with 
the  Maraflon  between.  On  another  occasion,  two  hours 
before  our  arrival  at  Huaracayo,  we  heard  the  well-known 
blows  which  the  tunduy , as  the  instrument  is  called, 
produces.  These  were  repeated  from  dwelling  to  dwelling, 
and  when  we  arrived  there  were  more  than  two  hundred 
Indians  awaiting  us,  who  had  been  informed  of  our  coming 
by  this  means. 

“ These  people  greatly  fear  contagious  diseases,  and 
maintain  separate  houses  like  isolation  hospitals,  to  cure 
those  attacked.  They  are  sanguinary  and  superstitious, 
and  also  treacherous.  The  attacks  upon  their  enemies  are 
well  premeditated,  and  never  from  the  front ; and  they 
murder  all  their  captives,  with  the  exception  of  the  women, 
who  are  kept  as  wives.  In  war  time  they  elect  as  leader 
the  cruellest  among  them,  but  afterwards  each  curaca  is 


«• 


The  Montana  and  the  Amazon 


275 


quite  independent,  and  owes  no  obedience  to  any  one. 
They  believe  in  no  divinity  (on  this  point  see  subsequent 
chapters,  C.R.E.).  The  only  thing  they  fear  is  a species  of 
evil  spirit  supposed  to  inhabit  the  whirlpools.  They  are 
polygamists,  and  treat  their  women  well.  The  aspect  of 
the  men  is  generally  good  ; often  they  are  of  well-developed 
chest  and  correct  features.  The  women,  much  smaller  in 
stature,  might  pass  as  pretty.  These  people  live  by  hunting 
and  fishing,  and  they  till  a small  patch  of  land,  which  the 
women  sow  and  reap,  with  yuca,  bananas,  mani  (pea-nuts), 
camote,  sugar-cane,  etc.  The  men  weave  shawls  of  cotton, 
which  are  used  as  waist-cloths.  The  women  use  a species 
of  chemise  without  sleeves,  tied  round  the  waist.  Their 
faces  are  painted  and  their  teeth  stained  black.” 

Another  of  the  party — Briining — says  : 

“ Although  these  Indians  are  generally  held  as 
treacherous,  I have  always  heard  it  said  by  disinterested 
people  that  the  whites  are  the  cause  of  this,  which  might 
rather  be  called  retaliation  for  evil  acts  committed  by  them. 
I have  personally  seen  the  bad  methods  employed  by  the 
caucheros — the  rubber-gatherers — against  the  Indians.” 

The  writer  in  the  Comercio , before  mentioned,  of  Port 
Maldonado  on  the  River  Madre  de  Dios,  800  or  more  miles 
away  from  the  above-described  region  of  the  Maranon,  to 
the  south-east,  says  of  the  caucheros : 

“ It  looks  as  though  the  New  Commissioner  were 
resolved  to  put  an  end  to  the  barbarous  custom  of  sending 
expeditions,  organised  by  the  authorities  themselves,  or 
by  the  caucheros  for  the  repugnant  object  of  enslaving 
the  poor  Chunchos  (the  Indians  of  that  region).  As 
both  workmen  and  women  are  scarce,  and  as  there  is  a 
great  demand  for  both,  armed  expeditions  are  frequently 
organised,  and  fall  upon  the  tribes  of  Indians,  good  or 
bad,  making  prisoners  in  the  midst  of  bloodshed  and  ex- 
termination. Impulsed  by  the  profits  of  ‘sale’  of  robust 
youths  and  healthy  women,  they  tear  sons  from  mothers 
and  wives  from  husbands,  without  commiseration.” 

Continuing  the  account  of  the  Maranon  expedition 
by  Briining,  a description  of  the  raft  they  used  in  naviga- 
tion is  given.  These  primitive  craft  are  largely  employed 


276 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


in  descending  the  rivers,  both  for  passengers  and  cattle, 
but  they  are  not  brought  back  again  up-stream. 

“ The  raft  was  composed  of  fourteen  trunks  of  balsa 
wood  — that  which  is  preferably  used  for  the  purpose, 
as  being  very  light.  These  were  about  io  inches  in 
diameter  and  5 or  6 yards  long,  forming  a raft  about  3! 
yards  wide,  by  5J  long,  secured  together  with  transverse 
trunks,  tied  with  bejucos , or  withes.  Near  the  stern  was 
formed  a platform  of  cane,  the  uprights  being  driven  into 
the  trunks,  with  a handrail,  for  the  passengers  and  baggage. 
The  propellers,  one  to  each  rower,  are  paddles  of  willow 
wood  feet  long  and  12  inches  wide  across  the  blade. 
This  raft  is  shown  in  the  accompanying  drawing.” 

The  canoe  with  which  they  continued  their  voyage 
was  10J  metres  long  and  60  centimetres  wide  — or 
about  34 J feet  by  2 feet — a “dug-out”  of  a single  piece 
of  cedar,  and  which  cost  them  £4,  including  the  rowers’ 
salary.  This  is  shown  in  the  sketch,  as  also  the  paddles. 
They  passed  the  Pottgo  de  Manscriche,  or  rapids,  at 
the  head  of  possible  steam  navigation,  arriving  at  Port 
Melendez,  and  breakfasted  the  next  day  on  stewed 
monkey. 

I have  translated  and  given  the  foregoing  extracts  as 
being  reliable,  for,  although  those  who  undertook  the 
expedition  were  not  necessarily  scientific  explorers,  still 
they  were  careful  observers,  and  recorded  their  observa- 
tions truthfully. 


P.  277 


CHAPTER  XXVII 


THE  MONTANA  AND  THE  AMAZON — Continued 

This  intensely  interesting  region  of  the  Peruvian  Montana 
is  becoming  more  known,  due  largely  to  the  explorations 
made  recently  by  Engineers  and  representatives  of  the 
Government  and  of  the  Lima  Geographical  Society,  whose 
expenses  and  salaries  are  paid,  so  relieving  them  of  the 
strain  which  sometimes  falls  to  the  lot  of  other  travellers. 
For  expenses  are  often  heavy  on  expeditions  in  such 
countries,  and,  personally,  I have  spent  a good  deal  of 
money  in  these  matters,  in  different  parts  of  Peru. 

I have  quoted  already  from  the  reports  of  some  of 
these  employe-explorers,  which  reports  have  been  pre- 
sented me  officially  by  the  Departments  of  the  Peruvian 
Government,  on  whose  behalf  they  were  made.  Among 
some  of  the  principal  of  these  explorers  are  Colonel 
Portillo,  present  Minister  of  Public  Works,  Senator  Zegarra, 
Senor  Rosell,  and  the  Engineer,  Von  Hassel,  all  of  whom  I 
have  the  pleasure  of  knowing.  The  last-named  has  made 
some  considerable  study  of  the  aborigines  of  the  region 
of  the  Amazonian  forests  of  Peru,  and  this  embodies  the 
most  recent  knowledge  of  the  subject.  I have  quoted  in 
the  last  chapter  from  the  reports  of  this  Engineer,  upon 
the  subject  of  india-rubber,  and  the  following  extracts 
are  from  a report  published  in  February,  1905,  in  the 
official  publications.  A long  list  is  given  of  the  names 
of  the  different  tribes,  which  it  would,  however,  be  tedious 
to  reproduce  here,  although,  of  course,  they  are  of  value 
ethnologically.  In  the  region  north  of  the  Maranon 
and  Amazon  are  given  the  names  of  46  tribes  ; in  the 
central  region,  between  latitudes  50  and  n°  south,  27 

277 


278 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


tribes;  from  latitude  u°  south,  downwards,  26  tribes; 
and  tribes  of  other  regions,  15  names.  The  total 
number  of  the  Indians  of  these  tribes  is  given  as  122,000 
minimum  and  152,000  maximum;  it  not  being  possible 
to  give  a more  approximate  estimate  in  view  of  the 
immense  territory  covered. 

At  the  beginning  of  this  chapter  is  the  portrait  of  a 
young  Indian  woman — does  not  woman  of  whatever  race 
or  status  deserve  first  place,  courteous  reader  ? She  is  of 
one  of  the  tribes  of  the  central  region — the  Amueshas — 
which  has  its  own  language.  These  Indians  use  bows  and 
arrows,  and  are  of  a docile  nature.  Some  others  shown  in 
the  plates  are  the  Lorenzos  of  the  same  region ; the 
Campas  of  the  southern  region,  and  the  Chunchos  and 
so-called  Cannibals. 

“ Among  the  Aguarunas  of  the  Marafion  the  women 
are  quite  good-looking,  with  regular  features.  Here  they 
build  the  war-towers  for  defence,  and  use  the  tondoy , or 
signalling  instrument  before  described.  They  believe  in 
witcheries  and  are  polygamous,  are  of  middle  stature  and 
fight  with  poisoned  arrows.  These  were  the  Indians  who, 
years  ago,  destroyed  the  town  of  Jaen,  previously  described. 
Both  men  and  women  wear  short,  primitive  garments. 
They  believe  in  a good  and  an  evil  spirit ; build  houses, 
and  cultivate  the  ground.  The  Amahuachus  of  the 
Ucayali  river  are  of  middle  stature  ; they  use  bows  and 
arrows,  are  hostile  to  the  whites  ; cultivate  maize,  bananas, 
etc.  ; rarely  wear  any  dress,  and  in  some  cases  use  stone 
hatchets  still.  The  Conibos,  on  the  Upper  Ucayali,  use 
bows,  arrows,  and  maces  (head  - breakers) ; lances  for 
spearing  fish ; arc  good  hunters  and  fishers ; cultivate 
large  plantations,  and  have  their  own  language.  They 
retain  legends,  and  hold  the  religious  practice  of  dedicating 
to  the  moon  the  virginity  of  the  brides  in  marriage — an 
Inca  custom.  It  is  to  be  supposed  that  this  tribe,  like  the 
Shipibos  and  Shetibos,  is  of  Inca  origin,  emigrants  from 
the  Inca  Empire  upon  the  invasion  of  the  Spaniards. 
They  are  possessed  of  a certain  spirit  of  rectitude,  and  are 
in  continual  contact  with  the  whites. 

“ The  Cocamas  inhabit  the  region  near  the  confluence 
of  the  Ucayali  with  the  Marafion.  They  are  much  mixed 
with  the  Indians  of  the  Andean  uplands,  and  were  in 
relations  with  the  Inca  Empire.  They  have  their  own 


Tiu  Montana  Cannibals  or  iml  Pacmitca  Kivu. 


Thl  Montana  Lorenxo  Indians. 


/’.  179 


/V  42 


The  Montana  and  the  Amazon  279 

language,  and  have  adopted  all  the  customs  of  the  whites. 
The  Campas  tribe  is  one  of  the  most  numerous  of  the 
Amazonian  basin,  and  due  to  their  customs  and  assimila- 
tions of  civilised  methods  occupies  a high  place.  They 
are  much  subdivided,  and  occupy  an  enormous  region, 
including  the  left  sides  of  the  Urubamba  and  Ucayali 
rivers,  and  the  great  pampas  of  Sacramento,  and  the 
great  pajonal  or  grass  - covered  plain.  They  use  the 
cushma , a species  of  shirt  without  sleeves  woven  from 
wild  cotton  ; bows  and  arrows ; and  cultivate  extensive 
plantations  of  maize,  yucas,  bananas,  aji  (or  Chile  pepper), 
and  potatoes.  In  general  they  are  of  some  nobility  of 
features,  and  friendly  to  the  whites,  and  are  good  rowers, 
and  easily  learn  the  use  of  the  rifle.  They  are  poly- 
gamous, and  some  of  the  sub-tribes  are  anthropophagus, 
in  the  belief  that  they  assume  the  physical  strength 
and  intellectuality  of  those  they  eat.  The  Lorenzos  belong 
to  this  tribe. 

“The  Huachipairis  are  a hostile  tribe  upon  the  upper 
Madre  de  Dios  river.  The  men  are  of  ferocious  aspect, 
exaggerated  by  the  custom  of  perforating  the  upper  lip, 
and  introducing  therein  sticks,  feathers,  and  shells.  They 
cultivate  plantations,  and  use  bows  and  arrows ; generally 
naked  ; weave  cloths  and  ropes  of  wild  cotton,  but  are 
lazy.  They  speak  a special  language,  and  have  resisted 
both  the  Spanish  and  the  Peruvian  advance.  Many  of 
them  understand  the  Quechua  and  Campa  languages, 
the  latter  being  introduced  by  the  women  of  that  tribe, 
which  they  constantly  steal.  They  believe  in  witcheries, 
but  have  no  fixed  religion.  They  paint  their  bodies  red 
and  black,  and  are  polygamous. 

“The  Inje  inje,  a small  tribe  of  a few  hundred  members, 
live  in  some  of  the  ravines  affluent  to  the  Curaray  river, 
and  are  the  least  known  of  all.  Their  main  peculiarity  is  in 
their  language,  which  consists  of  the  two  words  inje-inje 
alone,  with  which  they  explain  everything  by  means  of 
different  accents  and  gestures.  They  plant  land ; the 
mode  of  clearing  this  being  by  wounding  the  tree-trunks 
with  stone  hatchets,  which  then  dry  up  and  die.  They 
are  not  hostile,  but  avoid  contact  with  the  whites. 

“ The  Machigangas  inhabit  the  region  of  the  upper 
Urubamba  and  the  Pachitea  rivers.  They  are  low  of 
stature  and  with  regular  features ; not  hostile  ; planters ; 
house-builders,  and  polygamous.  The  only  marriage 
ceremony  is  that  where  the  bridegroom  goes  to  the 
bride’s  hut  and  hauls  her  forth  by  the  hair  of  her  head 


280 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


to  take  her  forcibly  to  his  own ! This  tribe  was  in  contact 
with  and  dominated  by  the  Incas,  and  preserve  legends 
in  this  respect,  one  of  which  is  that  upon  the  Spanish 
advent  thousands  of  Indians  from  Cuzco,  under  the 
direction  of  an  Inca  prince,  immigrated  to  the  Montafta. 
There  exist  various  stones  with  chisellings,  which  they 
made  in  their  march  along  the  Urubamba  river,  and  the 
Inca  fortress  of  Tonquini,  or  ‘Trunk  of  the  Inca,’  as  well 
as  various  well-constructed  roads  in  the  region  inhabited 
by  these  savages,  are  witnesses  that  they  were  allied  to  the 
Incas.  They  adored,  in  their  manner,  the  sun  and  the 
moon,  and  speak  the  Campa  language. 

“The  Nahumedes  are  an  almost  extinct  tribe,  on  the 
river  of  the  same  name.  They  are  those  w'ho  attacked  the 
explorer  Orellana,  who  believed  that  these  savages,  with 
their  chemises  or  shirts,  and  long  hair,  were  women- 
warriors,  or  ‘ Amazons,’  and  which  name  was  given  to  the 
great  river.  This  must  be  the  explanation  of  the  supposed 
existence  of  women  - warriors  in  these  regions,  for  no 
legend  or  history  among  the  Indians  can  be  found  relating 
to  any  Empire  of  women. 

“The  Orejones  Indians  inhabit  the  region  of  the  river 
Napo  and  its  affluents.  Their  peculiarity  is  that  of  making 
their  ears  large  ; and  some  of  them  have  this  organ  as 
long  as  the  face  and  as  wide  as  the  hand.  This  has  been 
attributed  by  some  to  a supposed  Inca  custom,  and  they 
hoped  in  this  manner  to  be  considered  descendants  of  the 
Imj>erial  families.  The  Piros  reside  on  the  Urubamba 
and  upper  Madrc  de  Dios.  They  are  few  in  number, 
and  small-pox  has  decimated  them.  According  to  their 
traditions  they  had  relations  with  the  Incas.  They  believe 
in  one  God,  whom  they  adore  and  to  whom  they  pray. 

“ In  the  Amazonian  region  of  Peru  there  are  tribes  which 
have  their  own  language,  without  counting  the  dialects. 
The  most  primitive  is  the  Inje  inje,  before  mentioned,  for, 
by  means  of  these  two  w'ords,  varying  the  pronunciation 
and  accompanying  gestures,  they  express  everything.  The 
most  complete  languages  arc  the  Campas,  Aguarunas, 
Antipas,  and  Muratas.  Regarding  the  matter  of  numbers, 
some  tribes  can  count  to  five,  some  to  ten,  whilst  others 
only  express  higher  quantities  by  a movement  of  the 
fingers.  As  to  births  among  these  people,  they  are  realised 
with  rapidity;  the  elder  women,  assisted  sometimes  by 
a man,  perform  the  necessary  operations,  the  patient,  among 
some  tribes,  being  suspended  by  cords  to  a beam  in  such  a 
manner  that  the  body  is  in  a vertical  position. 


The  Montana  and  the  Amazon 


281 


“ The  Aguarunas,  among  other  curious  arts,  possess  that 
of  making  reduced  human  heads.  The  heads  are  reduced 
to  about  one-fifth  of  their  volume,  more  or  less,  by  the 
following  process.  The  head — cut  from  the  body  of  some 
enemy — is  left  for  some  few  days  upon  a pole,  and  when 
half  decomposed  a vertical  cut  is  made  in  the  cranium,  all 
the  bones  being  taken  out,  leaving  only  the  thick  skin. 
The  interior  is  then  carbonised  with  hot  stones  and  the  head 
is  placed  on  the  smoke  of  a fire  made  of  certain  palm  roots, 
which  smoke  having  some  astringent  quality  like  that  of 
alum  shrinks  the  head  to  the  desired  size.  There  is  a tribe 
near  Cusicuari,  on  the  river  Orinoco,  which  reduced  entire 
human  bodies  in  this  way.  The  tribes  of  the  Putumayo 
and  Yapura  rivers  smoke-dry  and  preserve  the  hands  of 
their  enemies,  whilst  the  Cashibos  keep  their  teeth. 

“ The  tunday  exists  among  the  greater  part  of  these 
tribes.  It  is  an  instrument  for  communicating  among 
them,  consisting  of  the  trunk  of  a tree  about  i£  metres 
long,  of  a species  of  balsa  wood.  By  means  of  hot  stones 
three  holes  and  a vertical  groove  are  made  therein  ; the 
apparatus  is  hung  by  means  of  a cord  to  a high  tree  and 
tied  below  to  a stick  buried  in  the  ground.  The  blows 
given  with  a club  send  acoustic  waves  for  1 5 kilometres  or 
more,  according  to  the  force  of  the  blow.  The  distances 
apart  of  the  holes  in  the  trunk  form  a species  of  scale,  of 
varying  notes.” 

I have  spoken  in  a previous  chapter  of  these  signalling 
or  communicating  instruments,  and  one  traveller  in  those 
regions  likens  them  to  a species  of  wireless  telegraphy. 
The  real  wireless  telegraphy  will  now,  however,  supersede 
this  method  of  communication  of  primitive  man  in  the 
Montana  of  Peru,  for  the  Government  of  that  country 
has  installed  the  apparatus  for  this  purpose.  Overcoming 
many  difficulties  the  apparatus  has  been  transported  from 
Iquitos  to  Masisea,  at  the  confluence  of  the  Pichis  with  the 
Upper  Ucayali  river,  and  has  been  erected  at  that  point. 
From  this  place  communication  is  now  established  with 
Port  Bermudez,  the  head-waters  of  navigation  on  the  way 
to  Lima.  This  is  an  enterprising  piece  of  work  on  the  part 
of  the  Government  of  Peru.  Continuing  the  foregoing 
translation  : 


282 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


“ Many  of  the  tribes  to  the  north  of  the  Maranon  pre- 
pare poisons,  which  form  an  article  of  commerce  between 
those  who  use  the  blow-pipe  and  the  lance.  The  principal 
poison  is  prepared  from  a plant,  and  has  the  quality  of 
being  fatal  to  animals  in  hunting,  without  being  prejudicial 
to  man  in  eating  the  flesh.  It  is  put  up  in  little  earthen 
jars,  and  also  in  hollow  canes,  by  varying  tribes.  The 
poison  used  by  the  tribes  of  the  Putumayo  and  Yapura 
rivers,  on  their  lances  in  war,  is  made  from  bodies  in  a state 
of  putrefaction. 

“ All  these  tribes  have  in  their  possession  prisoners  of 
war  which  they  use  as  slaves,  which  are,  however,  treated 
with  humanity.  The  adoption  of  dress  among  these  tribes 
is  from  three  causes : morality ; reasons  of  climate — cold 
near  the  Cordillera  ; and  as  a protection  against  mosquitoes. 
The  cushma , largely  used,  is  a species  of  shirt  without 
sleeves,  and  is  woven  of  wild  cotton  and  sometimes  painted 
or  stained  in  lines  or  figures.  Both  men  and  women  are 
addicted  to  adornments,  such  as  painting,  feathers,  and 
skins  of  animals.  They  make  fermented  drinks  of  yuca 
and  maize,  and  consume  considerable  quantities  on  the  eve 
of  wars,  weddings,  or  other  events.  They  also  make  an 
agreeable  drink  with  bananas. 

“ Certain  stationary  tribes  of  the  Madera  river  received 
some  culture  from  the  people  who  inhabited  the  island 
of  Tumpinambaranas  — the  effect  of  the  Spanish  and 
Portuguese  influence  is  new  and  easily  recognised.  The 
Amazonian  tribes  present  all  stages  of  culture,  from  the 
Inje  inje,  of  the  stone  age  in  their  language  and  imple- 
ments, down  to  that  assimilated  by  the  tribes  near  to 
the  presence  of  the  white  man.  Some  of  the  principal 
ceremonies  of  the  Indians  are  those  connected  with 
matrimony.  Among  the  Campas  the  members  of  the 
tribe,  men  and  women,  form  a circle,  in  the  centre  of 
which  the  two  lovers  deliver  themselves  over  to  those 
nuptial  embraces  which  the  white  races  perform  in 
private.  They  consume  fermented  drinks,  forcing  the 
girl  to  partake  thereof ; and  among  some  of  them  the 
Inca  ceremony  of  dedicating  her  to  the  moon  is 
observed. 

“The  chief  motive  of  hostility  between  the  tribes  is 
the  robbery  of  women  ; and  the  same  holds  good  with 
regard  to  the  white  rubber  - gatherers,  or  caucheros . 
Among  certain  tribes  the  influence  of  contact  with  the 
Inca  Empire  is  plainly  to  be  seen  ; the  Mojos  of  the 
river  Madera  were  those  who  were  most  influenced  by 


The  Montana  and  the  Amazon 


283 


the  expedition  of  the  Inca  Yupanqui.  Some  of  these 
tribes  are  rapidly  disappearing,  due  to  contagious  diseases 
— especially  small-pox  ; wars  with  other  tribes  and  with  the 
white  man ; alcohol ; fevers  due  to  working  as  rubber- 
gatherers  in  malarious  regions ; slavery,  brought  about 
by  the  rubber  - gatherers ; great  mortality  among  the 
children,  and  the  consequences  of  polygamy,  etc. 

“As  to  their  religion,  their  beliefs  are  a mixture  of 
witchcraft  and  superstition.  But,  with  the  exception  of 
the  Campas,  who  worship  the  sun  and  moon,  as  shown 
them  by  the  Incas,  they  believe  in  a good  spirit  and  a 
bad  spirit.  Among  some  of  them  also  exists  the  belief 
in  transmigration  of  souls  through  animals ; and  some 
also  believe  in  a future  life,  following  the  present.  As 
to  the  beginning  of  the  world,  a legend  among  them  says 
that  man  lived  at  first  in  a great  subterranean  cave,  whose 
entrance  was  guarded  by  a tiger.  One  day  a valiant  and 
rational  man,  resolving  to  give  liberty  to  his  kind,  fought 
and  killed  the  tiger,  and  the  inhabitants  of  the  cave 
went  forth.  As  they  were  all  very  dirty,  they  heated 
some  water  in  a large  vessel  in  order  to  wash  themselves. 
The  first  lot  which  performed  this  operation  became 
white  ; the  second  — the  water  being  now  dirty  — were 
the  Indians,  and  the  third  — in  still  dirtier  water  — the 
negroes.  The  Great  Spirit  (God)  had  amused  Himself 
in  making  a great  earthen  pot  which  He  placed  on  high, 
forming  the  heavens.” 

Such  are  briefly  some  of  the  principal  tribes  of  the 
Montana — the  infidels,  as  they  are  termed.  It  is  seen 
that  their  customs  are  primitive.  Some  of  them  wear 
a little  clothing;  some  go  naked  and  unshamed.  They 
are  fighters,  fishers,  and  hunters.  They  weave  and  plant, 
and,  in  short,  exercise  the  few  arts  and  crafts  of  primitive 
and  undeveloped  man.  There  they  live  in  the  shadow 
of  their  everlasting  forests,  upon  their  endless  rivers  and 
happy  hunting  - grounds.  There  they  abide,  imperfect 
creatures ; offshoots  in  the  plan  of  Nature’s  handiwork  ; 
experiments,  perchance,  of  her  evolutive  forces.  But  are 
they  the  primitive  elements  of  man,  or  are  they  the 
remnants  of  a past  civilisation?  What  is  their  object, 
their  end  ? To  be  exterminated  by  the  rapacity  of  the 
whites  — to  be  assimilated  into  the  bosom  of  a new 


284 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


race?  To  give  place  to  the  inexorable  march  of  stronger 
nations  — those  whom  Fortune  has  bid  cultivate  their 
mental  as  well  as  their  physical  faculties.  None  of  them 
appear  to  have  formed  any  state  of  common  government ; 
they  are  all  composed  simply  of  groups  of  families.  Small 
sub -tribes  are  headed  by  a curaca , but  these  have  no 
cohesion  among  themselves,  and  one  may  be  at  war 
without  the  others  taking  part.  This  division  is  — as 
ever — fatal  to  their  existence  as  a nation,  and  permits 
the  cauchero  to  more  or  less  work  his  will ; and  this  want 
of  cohesion — as  in  the  history  of  other  races — will  doubt- 
less be  the  element  conducive  to  their  disappearance. 

There  is,  then,  this  enormous  territory,  destined — and 
soon — to  be  overrun  by  the  white  man,  and  taken  away 
from  its  present  inhabitants.  There  are  these  rich  and 
limitless  areas  lying  fallow  for  the  uses  of  civilised  man- 
kind ; the  most  civilised  nations  of  which,  it  must  be 
confessed,  have  not  yet,  themselves,  found  the  secret  of 
fair  possession  of  their  own  present  lands,  nor  equitable 
apportioning  thereof  for  the  people  which  live  and  move 
and  have  their  being  thereon ! 


CHAPTER  XXVIII 


THE  MONTANA  AND  THE  AMAZON.  INDIA-RUBBER 

What,  now,  is  the  stimulus  which  is  disseminating 
knowledge  of  these  hitherto  little-known  regions?  It  is 
a commercial  one.  Commerce,  the  love  of  gain,  has 
always  been  the  great  explorer,  reducing  all  theory  and 
illusion  to  fact  and  experience.  Commerce,  the  great 
buccaneer,  has  always  opened  up  desert  places,  and  now, 
not  in  search  of  gold,  silks,  or  spices,  but  of  what  ? — india- 
rubber.  This  is  the  golden  fleece  of  the  modern  Argonauts 
upon  these  savage  rivers  ; this  is  the  prize  for  which  men 
sell  their  souls  and  destroy  the  souls  and  bodies  of  their 
fellow-creatures  as  they  did  in  days  gone  by  for  gold ; 
for,  written  largely  on  the  history  — and  it  is  only  a 
history  of  to-day  — of  this  modest  and  useful  product,  is 
the  Iniquity  of  business.  Cruelty,  cheating,  oppression, 
slavery,  and  even  murder  have  characterised  it,  from  the 
Congo  to  the  Amazon.  Evil  is  being  done  in  order,  we 
trust,  that  good  may  come  of  it  — ever  the  Jesuitical 
characteristic  with  which  Nature  seems  to  work  through 
man  and  commerce.  But  I digress.  I have  wandered 
into  the  by  - paths  of  abstract  fields.  Yet  let  us  see  what 
other  observers  say : I translate  from  an  official  report 
made  for  the  Peruvian  Department  of  Loreto. 

“The  strong  endeavours  to  put  into  contact  these 
distant  regions  with  the  civilised  world,  and  especially  the 
industry  of  obtaining  the  ‘ black  gold/  as  the  india-rubber 
is  called,  have  produced  intense  upturnings  in  the  savage 
tribes,  some  of  which  have  accepted  the  civilisation  offered 
by  the  caucheros , or  rubber-gatherers,  others  having  been 
annihilated  by  them.  On  the  other  hand,  alcohol,  bullets, 
and  small-pox  have  worked  such  devastation  among  them 

285 


28G 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


that  their  complete  disappearance  is  a matter  of  a few 
years.  Protest  must  be  made  against  the  abuses  and 
unnecessary  destruction  of  these  primitive  beings,  whom 
the  avarice  of  so-called  civilised  man  has  placed  among 
the  ‘ products  * of  the  Amazonian  market,  for  it  is  well 
known  that  these  Indians  are  quoted  there  like  any 
other  merchandise.  Steps  ought  to  be  taken  by  the 
Governments  of  Peru,  Brazil,  Colombia,  Ecuador,  Bolivia, 
and  the  other  countries  bordering  on  the  rivers  to  protect 
these  unfortunate  beings,  who,  without  any  guarantee 
from  the  law,  are  exposed  to  the  attacks  of  the  whites, 
who  hunt  them  like  wild  beasts,  recognising  as  their  only 
value  that  represented  by  their  sale.” 

There  is  no  doubt  that  outrages  are  committed  in 
these  regions,  in  the  extraction  of  india-rubber,  even 
taking  into  account  the  exaggerated  descriptions  which 
some  travellers  always  give  of  what  they  see,  and  especi- 
ally of  what  they  hear  in  such  places  as  regards  the 
barbarities  committed  upon  the  Indians.  I have  quoted 
in  the  previous  chapter  an  extract  from  a Lima  newspaper 
— the  Comer  do  — where  it  is  stated  that  the  Indians 
are  captured  and  sold  in  much  the  same  way  as  in  the 
old  slave  days.  It  seems  probable  that  these  races  will 
become  much  depleted  if  existing  methods  are  continued, 
and  the  only  compensating  circumstance  from  the  point 
of  view  of  labour  is  that  a new  and  mixed  race  may  arise, 
formed  by  the  admixture  of  the  caucheros  and  foreigners 
with  the  Indian  women.  In  the  meantime  humanitarian 
sentiment  cannot  but  feel  regret  at  such  conditions, 
and  anger  that  they  should  exist,  especially  within  the 
territories  which  style  themselves  “ republics.”  Of  course, 
some  allowances  must  be  made  for  these  governments. 
The  rubber  regions  are  far  off  from  centres  of  authority, 
and  often  difficult  of  access ; whilst  to  efficiently  police 
these  vast  systems  of  rivers  and  forests  would  heavily 
tax  the  resources  of  the  smaller  countries  who  own 
them. 

The  Lima  Geographical  Journal  of  December,  1904, 
publishes  an  article  upon  the  india-rubber  resources  of 
the  Amazonian  Montana  of  Peru.  It  says  : 


Montana  and  the  Amazon,  India-rubber  287 

“ The  two  principal  rubber  - yielding  trees  of  this 
region  are  the  Hevea  Guyanensis,  which  has  a trunk 
50  to  70  feet  high,  and  about  2 to  2f  feet  in  diameter, 
forming  an  almost  cylindrical  column  crowned  with  its 
branches.  The  sap  is  smooth,  and  of  a grey  colour. 
Then  follow  the  Castilloas,  with  a trunk  about  50  feet 
high  and  2 to  3 feet  in  diameter.  The  Hevea  Andenense, 
of  the  first  division,  is  so  called  because  it  is  found  up 
the  slopes  of  the  Andes  to  an  elevation  of  2,000  feet 
above  sea-level. 

“All  the  eastern  part  of  Peru,  from  the  foot  of  the 
Cordillera  and  following  the  Amazon  and  its  affluents, 
is  the  country  of  the  rubber  trees.  Notwithstanding 
the  apparent  uniformity  of  the  forest  it  is  really  divided 
into  sections  by  subtle  lines — a division  in  which  are  com- 
prehended the  rubber  trees,  for  in  the  great  Amazonian 
basin  the  polar  lines  which  divide  the  vegetable  world 
cross.  Two  groups  of  trees,  apparently  of  the  same 
class  and  family,  so  separated,  differ  much  in  their 
respective  products,  both  in  quality  and  quantity.  The 
want  of  knowledge  of  these  matters  has  caused  great  loss 
to  capital  invested  in  the  industry  of  rubber  extraction, 
for  a rubber  tree  of  the  same  family  and  species  varies 
much  in  its  product  — doubling  this  at  times  according 
to  the  zone,  whether  interior  or  exterior  of  the  polar 
line,  in  which  it  is  situated.  Many  enterprises  have 
failed  from  this  reason : that  the  production  did  not 
equal  the  expense,  and  not  necessarily  from  bad  manage- 
ment. This  fact  induced  me  to  make  close  study, 
during  ten  years  of  this  interesting  matter,  and  adduced 
this  theory  of  the  polar  lines.” 

I give  the  above  extract  and  theory  for  what  they  are 
worth,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  their  author  gave  much 
time  and  observation  to  the  subject.  Continuing,  this 
writer  says : 

“Three  species  of  trees  produce  the  whole  of  the 
india-rubber  exported  from  Peru.  These  are  the  Caucho , 
the  Orco-shiringa , and  the  shiringa  or  jebe  jino.  Generally 
the  term  ‘ Caucho  ’ is  used  for  all  classes  of  rubber,  but  the 
technical  definition  gives  this,  as  referring  only  to  the 
commoner  kind,  and  which  is  obtained  by  felling  the 
tree  and  running  the  sap  completely  out.  This  is  the 
principal  source  of  Peruvian  rubber  at  present.  The 
second — the  Orco-shiringa,  is  superior,  and  belongs  to  the 


288 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


Heveas.  At  first  sight  it  does  not  differ  from  the  best 
shiringa,  and  the  sap  is  obtained  like  the  latter  by  the 
method  of  tapping  into  tin  cups  or  tejilinas.  The  true 
difference  between  the  two  last  is  in  the  superior  quality, 
elasticity,  and  colour  of  the  true  shiringa.  The  polar  line 
of  the  inferior  kind  is  much  more  advanced  westward  than 
that  of  the  best.  The  best  shiringa,  of  course,  produces 
the  rubber  which  fetches  the  highest  price.”  (The  “ weak- 
fine”  of  commerce.) 

“ The  india-rubber  trees  are  not  uniform  in  their  occur- 
rences in  the  forests.  In  some  places  amid  the  chaos 
of  hundreds  of  different  kinds  of  trees  they  are  more 
pronounced  than  in  others ; and  the  cauchero  and 
shiringuero  seek  these  favoured  spots,  their  ability  or 
good  fortune  in  finding  them,  determining  their  success, 
or  otherwise.  In  an  area  of  ioo  yards  square  there 
may  be  a single  rubber  tree,  or  there  may  be  twenty, 
thirty,  or  more. 

“ The  method  of  the  cauchero  is  as  follows : — The 
cauchero , after  having  ascended  the  stream  in  his  canoe, 
to  some  virgin  region,  establishes  his  habitation  on  the 
bank,  and  then  undertakes  successive  excursions  into  the 
forest,  making  provisional  camps  which  serve  as  centres, 
marking  in  his  passage,  with  his  machete , the  trees  he 
encounters,  and  which  signs  of  possession  are  religiously 
respected  by  other  caucheros.  A sufficient  exploration 
having  been  made,  and  trees  marked,  he  proceeds  to 
the  extraction  of  the  sap.  If  his  object  is  to  extract 
semambi  of  Caucho,  he  allows  the  milk  to  coagulate  by 
running  into  small  grooves  in  the  earth,  where  it  solidifies 
in  long  strips,  which,  when  rolled  up  into  balls,  are  known 
in  the  market  by  that  name.  If  it  is  desired  to  obtain 
rubber  in  sheets,  the  sap  is  mixed  with  soap  or  a certain 
kind  of  earth,  and  poured  into  a square  mould,  where 
it  solidifies. 

“ This  form  of  exploitation  conduces  directly  to  the 
destruction  of  the  trees.  Immense  regions  have  already 
been  devastated,  and  the  day  is  not  far  off  when  this 
source  of  rubber  will  have  disappeared  completely.  In 
the  extensive  regions  of  the  Madre  de  Dios  river  this  is 
a question  of  fifteen  or  twenty  years. 

“ The  shiringa  trees  are  worked  in  a somewhat  different 
manner,  by  opening  a path  in  the  forest  between  them, 
and  portioning  out  the  land  to  the  workers  in  areas  called 
estradas — this  representing  the  extension  which  can  be 
attended  to  by  one  man.  This  area  may  contain  from  120 


Montana  and  the  Amazon.  India-rubber  289 


to  200  trees.  The  shiringuero  makes  incisions  in  the 
trunks  of  an  inch  or  more  in  length,  from  four  to  ten 
in  number,  according  to  the  size  of  the  tree,  and  the  small 
tin  cups  are  hung  below.  Later  in  the  day — he  has  begun 
at  daybreak — he  collects  the  contents  of  these  utensils 
in  a bucket,  and  the  milk  is  then  coagulated  in  the 
smoke  of  a fire,  where  it  is  converted  into  balls.  An 
average  calculation  for  a shiringa  tree  is  about  n lbs. 
in  six  months,  and  that  of  the  Orco-shiringa  6J  lbs. 
of  pure  rubber.  The  Caucho  gives,  according  to  its 
size,  as  much  as  ioo  lbs.,  but  once  only.  The  amount 
which  the  cauchero  obtains  in  a year  varies  greatly.  At 
times  he  may  not  cover  his  expenses ; at  others  he  may 
make  some  profit.  In  fairly  favourable  conditions  he  may 
extract  5 to  10  tons  ; whilst  the  shiringuero , attending 
to  two  estradas  of  100  to  120  trees,  may  obtain  about 
a ton  of  rubber.  During  half  of  the  year  the  latter  is 
obliged  to  devote  himself  to  other  work,  as  the  shiringa- 
bearing  ground  is  then  generally  flooded. 

“ It  is  hardly  necessary  to  enter  into  details  as  to  the 
advantages  which  would  accrue  from  planting  rubber. 
From  1,000  to  1,500  trees  might  occupy  the  present  space 
of  15  or  40,  whilst  the  same  labour  would  attend  them. 
Some  planting  has  been  done  on  the  Acre,  Purus,  Yurua, 
and  Madera  rivers,  but  only  a little,  notwithstanding  its 
vast  importance  for  the  future  of  the  region.  Much  care 
must  be  exercised  in  the  selection  of  the  ground,  and 
in  normal  conditions,  the  tree  requires  from  eight  to  ten 
years  before  it  should  be  tapped.  This  industry  offers 
favourable  conditions  for  the  collocation  of  capital.” 

The  life  of  the  rubber-gatherer  is  not  an  easy  one. 
Accustomed  from  his  youth  up  to  a solitary  existence  in 
these  immense  forests  he  relies  only  upon  himself,  and 
is  ever  ready  to  suffer  the  hardships  with  which  Nature 
punishes  those  who  strive  to  penetrate  too  deeply  into 
her  workshop.  He  is  a good  hunter,  and  this  helps  liim 
in  his  larder,  as  well  as  in  protection  from  the  dangers 
which  assail  him  from  wild  beasts.  His  headquarters  are 
in  Iquitos,  and  there  he  returns  with  his  spoils,  rests  and 
amuses  himself,  makes  his  purchases  of  provisions,  and  so 
forth.  Again  he  sallies  forth  towards  the  most  remote 
regions.  A steam-launch  carries  him  from  Iquitos  to 
where  steam  navigation  terminates,  and  with  his  wife, 

T 


290 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


children,  and  belongings,  including  his  rifle,  gun,  sewing- 
machine,  and  accordion,  he  enters  his  canoe.  A man  in 
the  prow  with  a long  pole  propels  the  craft  up  stream, 
whilst  a man  or  woman  in  the  stern  guides  it  with  a 
paddle ; and  so  he  penetrates — content  and  cheerful,  for 
he  is  a born  nomad — the  most  remote  region  of  the  vast 
Amazonian  interior. 

Considerable  mortality  takes  place  among  the  shir - 
ingueroSy  especially  due  to  tercianaSy  or  intermittent  fever, 
and paludismOy  or  malaria.  This  is  due  to  their  work  being, 
perforce,  carried  on  in  swampy  and  inundated  places — 
the  habitat  of  the  shiringa,  rather  than  the  Caucho  tree. 
Yellow  fever  and  beri-beri  are  also  suffered  from  at  times, 
and  all  those  that  remain  in  these  regions  of  the  Montana 
acquire  a yellow  tinge  of  complexion.  But  these  evils  are 
largely  due  to  exposure  and  lack  of  good  food,  and  are 
soon  overcome  upon  a change  of  climate. 

The  climate  of  the  Amazonian  region  is  a much 
disputed  theme.  Like  all  matters  of  this  nature  its 
characteristics  are  much  exaggerated,  some  accounts 
condemning  it  utterly,  whilst  others  speak  of  “eternal 
spring.”  The  real  facts  are  that  the  effects  of  the  climate 
there,  as  in  many  other  places,  depend  largely  upon  the 
regimen  of  living  observed  by  the  traveller  or  dweller 
there.  Small-pox,  fevers,  and  kindred  diseases  are  found 
in  the  highest  and  coldest  tablelands  of  the  Andes,  as  well 
as  in  the  hot  valleys,  plains,  and  forests,  showing  that 
diseases  arc  not  necessarily  due  to  the  place  or  climate, 
but  are  largely  brought  about  by  the  methods  of  the 
dwellers  there.  Of  course,  the  tropical  forests  are 
unhealthy  in  places,  and  will  remain  so  until  man  under- 
takes to  drain  and  ventilate  them.  The  most  trouble- 
some affairs  are  the  intermittent  fevers  and  malaria,  but 
they  are  encountered  generally  in  determined  places,  and 
there  are  vast  regions  which  are  free  from  them.  It  is 
easy  to  exaggerate,  but  it  must  be  remembered  that  the 
basin  of  the  Amazon  is  the  most  extensive  in  the  world, 
and  that  conditions  vary  much  in  its  varying  regions.  In 
the  Journal  of  the  Lima  Geographical  Society  for  1904 


Montana  and  the  Amazon.  India-rubber  291 


appears  an  article  protesting  against  a communication 
made  by  the  American  Minister  in  Brazil  to  the 
Washington  Government,  to  the  effect  that  every  ton  of 
india-rubber  exported  from  the  Amazonian  forests  costs 
two  lives ! This  was  in  reference  to  the  climate,  rather 
than  to  other  matters,  and  probably  referred  to  the  Acre 
region.  The  article  says  : 

“If  in  reality  the  climate  of  the  Amazonian  valley 
were  so  fatal  as  to  cause  the  ratio  of  two  deaths  per 
ton  of  india-rubber  produced,  it  would  result  that  no 
inhabitants  could  exist  in  the  region,  and  it  would  be 
very  difficult  for  foreigners  to  escape  with  their  lives — 
foreigners  sometimes,  who,  temperate  enough  in  such 
places  as  Washington  or  elsewhere,  in  these  regions  indulge 
their  appetites  without  stint.  Statistics  will  show  that  the 
calculations  of  the  American  Minister  are  the  fruit  of 
fantasy,  and  more  humorous  than  exact.  From  the  year 
1894  to  1901  there  were  exported  nearly  218,000  tons  of 
india-rubber  from  the  Amazonian  region,  which  would  be 
equivalent  to  something  less  than  half  a million  deaths, 
according  to  the  above  fantastic  calculation,  and  the 
industry  of  rubber  production  would  become,  in  such 
case,  the  juggernaut  of  South  America,  or  the  Moloch 
of  the  Amazon  ! 

“The  region  is,  among  those  found  in  the  tropics, 
one  of  the  best  on  the  earth,  its  climate  being  infinitely 
superior  to  places  in  the  same  latitude,  as  Sumatra,  the 
Congo,  Zanzibar,  etc. ; and,  far  from  being  a region  of 
death,  is  favourable  to  the  development  of  European 
races.  This  opinion  is  corroborated  by  such  travellers 
as  Darwin,  Agazzis,  Humboldt,  and  many  others,  and 
proved  by  all  the  meteorological  and  demographical 
statistics  and  data  scientifically  obtained  at  Iquitos, 
Manaos,  Para,  etc.,  which  are  all  important  centres  of 
population.  It  is  true  that  the  valleys  of  the  Yavari, 
Yutahy,  Madera  and  Acre  rivers,  upon  their  being 
explored,  might  have  been  termed  ‘death  valleys/  by 
reason  of  the  paludic  fevers  there,  during  the  four 
months  of  May  to  August : conditions  which  have 
now  greatly  changed.  Others,  as  the  Ucayali,  Maranon, 
Huallaga,  Morona,  Pastaza,  Tigre,  Napo,  Putumayo, 
Jurua,  Purus,  and  Madre  de  Dios  are  free  from  these 
matters.” 

The  conditions  obtaining  in  the  part  of  the  Amazonian 


292 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


basin  belonging  to  Peru  are,  as  has  been  stated,  favour- 
able to  the  industry  of  rubber-gathering,  and  something 
is  already  being  done  in  the  way  of  establishing  work  on 
a large  scale  by  foreign  companies.  The  rubber  exports 
from  Iquitos  in  1904  were  2,221  tons  against  1702  tons 
in  1902:  this  without  counting  the  amounts  which  were 
smuggled  out  of  the  country,  and  which  possibly  represent 
an  equal  quantity.  From  ports  on  the  Pacific  side  of 
Peru,  as  Payta,  Callao,  and  Mollendo,  other  smaller  but 
growing  shipments  were  made,  it  being  found  in  some 
cases  more  advantageous  to  carry  the  rubber  westward 
over  the  Andes  to  the  Pacific  Coast  than  to  take  it  east- 
wards to  the  Atlantic  through  Frazil.1 

There  are  several  routes  by  which  the  Peruvian 
rubber  forests  may  be  reached  from  the  Pacific  Coast. 
The  most  northerly  of  these  is  from  Paita  to  the 
Marafton  ; followed  by  that  from  Eten  to  the  Marafton, 
Pacasmayo  to  the  Huallaga;  Callao  to  the  Mayro,  the 
Pichis  or  the  Perene ; Pisco  to  the  Apurimac,  and 
Mollendo  to  the  Inambari.  In  all  these  roads  the 
Andes  have  to  be  surmounted,  and  in  the  Callao  and 
Mollendo  routes  this  is  performed  by  rail.  I have 
spoken  of  these  railways  elsewhere. 

The  upper  edge  of  the  Montafta,  of  which  I have 
spoken,  presents  no  terrors  of  climate,  fevers,  reptiles 
wild  beasts,  or  savages,  and  is  a region  of  immense 
interest.  It  is  hard  to  conceive  a more  alluring  project 
than  that  of  the  establishing  of  businesses  to  work  the 
resources  of  gold,  india  - rubber,  timber,  etc.,  in  these 
vast  regions ; and  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  the 
adventurous  spirits  of  Europe,  and  the  surplus  capital 
which  is  ever  seeking  investment,  must  sooner  or  later 
grasp  the  possibilities  of  the  Montafia  of  Peru. 

As  regards  the  rubber  lands,  the  Peruvian  Govern- 
ment is  anxious  to  attract  settlers,  and  to  open  up  the 

1 The  value  of  rubber  exports  from  all  Peruvian  ports  has  been  as 
follows  : — 

*903.  1904  *9®5-  *90*-  1907  (Estimated). 

/44M95  £670,137  £9*3.990  £1,000,000  £1,200,000 


Montana  and  the  Amazon.  India-rubber  293 

country ; and  with  this  end  offers  the  land  under  easy 
terms  and  concessions.  The  object  of  this  is  twofold  : 
first,  to  increase  the  wealth  and  population  of  the  country 
by  making  use  of  these  regions ; and,  secondly,  to  assure 
possession,  for  there  is  no  stronger  proof  and  safeguard 
of  ownership  of  much  of  the  debatable  territory  of 
South  America  than  the  existence  of  colonies  formed 
of  subjects  of  a foreign  nation. 

The  terms  upon  which  these  lands  can  be  acquired 
are  the  following:  — (i)  Leases  of  ten  years’  duration, 
and  (2)  renting  of  rubber  lands.  The  first  prohibits  the 
cutting  down  of  the  trees,  and  exacts  a royalty  of 
4 per  cent,  ad  valorem  of  rubber  extracted,  which  is 
to  be  paid  at  the  Custom  House.  There  is  no  fixed 
rent,  therefore,  to  be  paid  on  the  land.  Under  the 
second  form  the  estradas , or  rubber  areas  (containing 
about  150  trees  each),  are  leased  at  the  rate  of  about 
fivepence  each  per  annum,  and  an  equal  sum  for  each 
hectare — or  2\  acres  — in  addition.  Thus,  if  a survey 
of  ten  estradas  shows  that  they  occupy  20  hectares , the 
annual  rent  would  be  twelve  shillings.  These  terms,  it 
will  be  seen,  are  by  no  means  onerous.  Large  areas  of 
land  have  already  been  acquired,  and  in  the  register 
of  concessions  of  rubber  lands  figure  some  hundreds  of 
individuals  and  companies  whose  possessions  aggregate 
several  million  acres.  There  is  no  doubt  that  some 
of  these  will  begin  planting,  in  view  of  the  possible 
exhaustion  of  the  natural  trees  and  the  success  which 
the  cultivation  of  india-rubber  is  giving  in  other  parts 
of  the  world.  The  future  will  doubtless  see  many 
thriving  plantations  of  shiringa  where  now  only  the 
primitive  cauchero  plies  his  precarious  occupation,  amid 
the  tangled  forests  of  these  untrodden  solitudes. 


CHAPTER  XXIX 


THE  PERUVIANS 

It  is  time,  having  followed  out  our  observations  of  the 
physical  conditions  of  Peru,  to  more  fully  describe  the 
human  element  of  the  country. 

In  criticising  the  character  of  a people,  or  in  endeavour- 
ing to  sum  up  their  virtues  and  their  defects,  the  impartial 
critic  should  have  before  him  the  defects,  past  and  present, 
of  his  own  country.  He  will  examine  under  the  light 
of  relativcness,  and  contrast  such  conditions  with  those 
which  pertain  to  equivalent  epochs  in  the  life  of  other  and 
more  advanced  communities.  He  will  remember  that  to 
endeavour  to  define  or  specify  national  characteristics  is  to 
enter  upon  one  of  the  most  delicate  and  elusive  matters 
which  presents  itself  to  the  observer. 

The  Spanish-Amcrican  nations  generally  have  what 
might  be  termed  the  defects  of  small  communities.  They 
have  also  developed  the  misconception  of  youthfulness, 
which,  freed  from  restraint,  has,  under  the  name  of  liberty, 
sometimes  entered  upon  licence.  On  the  other  hand,  they 
possess  some  qualities  which  will  stand  them  in  good  stead 
in  the  future ; and  they  arc  free  of  some  defects  which  are 
noticeable  in  the  Anglo-Saxon. 

One  of  the  most  serious  charges  which  has  been  brought 
against  the  Spanish- Americans  generally,  is  that  their  sense 
of  commercial  honour  is  weak.  However  impartial  the 
foreign  observer  may  desire  to  be,  he  is  obliged  to  admit 
that  this  charge  has  some  foundation  in  fact  Whether,  if 
it  were  possible  to  calculate  a percentage  of  persons  in 
those  communities  who  escape  from  compliance  with  their 
business  obligations,  it  would  be  found  that  it  were  higher 

294 


The  Peruvians 


295 


than  that,  for  example,  of  England,  is  doubtful.  But 
probably  it  would  be  higher.  This  failing  is  one  of  the 
defects  which  are  partly  engendered  by  small  communities. 
It  does  not  so  much  exist  in  larger  business  centres  where 
there  is  the  constant  friction  of  frequent,  numerous,  and 
larger  operations.  Of  course,  the  Spanish-American  might 
retort  that  the  “ Yankee,”  in  years  within  our  memory,  was 
the  most  tricky  trader  that  the  world  has  known,  and  that  he 
has  not  altogether  lost  that  reputation.  Let  us  not  forget, 
also,  that  in  London  itself  some  of  the  most  famous 
business  scoundrels  have  flourished,  and  that  even  now  it  is 
full  of  operators  of  various  kinds,  whose  predatory  methods 
are  simply  those  of  the  buccaneers  of  old,  in  modern  form. 

Nevertheless,  it  is  impossible  to  deny  that  the  standard 
of  business  integrity  is  stronger  with  the  Anglo-Saxon  than 
with  the  Spanish  - American.  The  fame  of  British  fair 
dealing  is  world-wide ; it  is  bright  in  the  past  and  the 
present,  and  God  grant  it  may  ever  remain  so  in  the  future. 
The  North  American  has  partly  inherited  this  British 
spirit,  but,  so  far,  it  is  much  less  developed. 

Of  course,  in  Peru,  as  elsewhere  in  South  America,  there 
is  a class  whose  principles  are  as  just  as  those  of  other 
communities.  There  are  as  honourable  and  cultured  men 
of  business,  who  are  superior  to  these  failings,  and  who  are 
the  first  to  regret  the  existence  of  such  in  their  midst. 
Especially  is  this  the  case  among  the  older  families  of  the 
community. 

The  Peruvian  of  the  mestizo  class,  the  mixture  of 
Spanish  and  Indian,  is  of  a complex  character.  I have 
enjoyed,  in  the  interior  of  the  country,  much  hospitality  in 
my  travels  from  this  class,  which,  to  a large  extent,  forms 
the  society  of  the  smaller  towns.  There  is  intelligence  and 
aptitude  for  acquiring  knowledge  with  them ; and  avidity 
for  contact  with  the  outside  world  and  for  information  of 
its  events.  This  is  sometimes  coupled  with  the  most 
primitive  mode  of  living,  and  lack  of  ideas  of  comfort, 
or  refinement  in  their  surroundings.  I have  held  discussions 
with  such  people,  for  instance,  upon  the  works  of  Darwin 
or  other  authors  with  which  they  were  familiar  ; but  in  spite 


290 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


of  this  knowledge  they  had,  I am  convinced,  not  washed 
their  faces  for  a week  ! I have  had  the  history  of  England, 
or  incidents  in  the  Boer  War,  carefully  expounded  to  me 
by  men  whose  collars  and  other  linen  had  remained  un- 
changed for  a long  time  ; and  I have  often  admired  the 
facility  of  expression  on  current  matters  of  individuals  who 
had  not  shaved  themselves  for  weeks  : whose  houses  were 
unswept  and  dilapidated,  with  domestic  arrangements  such 
as  would  be  impossible  to  the  poorest  persons  in  England. 
These  people  read  their  newspapers  diligently,  and  it  is 
largely  from  this  source  that  they  acquire  information,  for 
books  are  scarce.  The  leading  newspapers  of  Peru  are  good 
in  tone  generally — of  a certain  order  of  literary  merit,  and 
they  are  the  greatest  educators  that  the  country  possesses 
at  present. 

The  complex  nature  of  the  people  of  this  class  goes 
further.  Sometimes,  while  showing  me  every  courtesy,  and 
enlarging  upon  the  importance  of  the  fact  that  a traveller 
should  be  engaged  in  scientific  examination  of  the  country 
and  its  resources,  they  have  cheated  me  over  the  price  of  hire 
or  purchase  of  a horse,  and,  on  some  occasions,  borrowed 
money  from  me  which  it  is  doubtful  if  they  ever  intended  to 
refund.  It  is  at  such  times  that  one  turns  from  the  easy 
veneer  of  their  politeness,  and  wishes  it  might  be  replaced 
by  more  solid  characteristics.  Of  course,  it  may  be  urged, 
that  promiscuous  borrowing  and  chicanery  over  horse- 
dealing and  other  matters  arc  by  no  means  unknown  in 
London,  or  elsewhere,  and  I can  only  soften  the  above 
criticisms  by  admitting  the  fact. 

It  must  be  recollected  that  these  small  interior  towns 
are  very  much  cut  off  from  communication  with  the  outside 
world  ; the  people  are  poor,  and  the  temptation  to  make  a 
little  profit  out  of  the  occasional  traveller  is  strong.  If  the 
traveller  is  philosophical  he  will  place  the  advantages  he 
receives  from  these  people — who  are  really  under  no  obliga- 
tion to  serve  him — against  the  small  matters  which  arouse 
his  spleen,  when  he  will  find  that  the  balance  is  on  his 
side.  There  are  rarely  public  conveniences  in  these  places, 
such  as  hotels,  or  means  of  conveyance,  and  the  traveller 


The  Peruvians 


297 


must  recollect  that  he  is  making  use  of  private  resources, 
without  which  he  would  be  unable  to  travel,  unless  he  had 
carried  everything  in  the  nature  of  tents,  beasts,  and 
equipment  with  him. 

But,  apart  from  all  the  allowances  which  he  may  make 
for  these  failings,  on  the  part  of  the  inhabitants,  it  is 
strongly  borne  upon  him  to  ask  himself : “ Why  is  it  that 
the  dwellers  of  this  land  are  so  different  to  the  peasantry  of 
Britain  or  Europe  ? ” Why  is  it  that  those  characteristics 
of  simple  honesty  and  other  pastoral  virtues  of  the  country- 
side of  his  own  land  are  so  often  lacking  with  these  people  ? 
For  these,  whether  they  are  of  the  lower  class  mestizo , or 
whether  they  are  purely  Indians — and  the  latter  form  the 
bulk  of  the  population — have  nothing  of  rural  simplicity  in 
their  constitution.  On  the  contrary,  they  are  exceedingly 
vivo — a term  which  may  be  translated  as  sharp , and  which 
often  has  a less  mild  signification.  As  bargainers  they  are 
extremely  shrewd,  and,  as  regards  the  Indians,  the  dominant 
note  of  all  their  dealings  is  disconfidence — desconfianza . 

These  unlovable  characteristics  are  due  to  several 
causes.  As  far  as  the  Indian  population  is  concerned, 
they  have  grounds  for  their  disconfidence.  These  Indians 
have  been  cheated,  oppressed,  and  deceived,  ever  since  the 
first  Spaniard  set  foot  in  the  country ; and  in  many  cases 
the  Peruvians  of  the  present  day  have  followed  very  similar 
methods  with  them.  They  have  been  made  to  work,  in 
earlier  days  as  slaves,  when  they  were  held  cheaper  than 
cattle,  and  later  for  pay,  out  of  which  they  are  often  cheated. 
During  the  frequent  revolutions,  which  in  the  past  century 
have  succeeded  each  other  in  the  country,  they  have  been 
abused,  and  their  goods  taken  by  the  military.  Nothing 
inspires  such  fear  and  disconfidence  among  them  as  the 
appearance  of  soldiers.  I have  sometimes  approached 
one  of  these  small  Indian  villages  with  my  men  and 
pack-mules,  when  by  some  reason  the  inhabitants  have 
mistakenly  supposed  that  we  were  militaires.  The  women 
have  scudded  like  rabbits  to  their  burrows,  to  regain  their 
dwellings,  and  the  male  inhabitants  have  received  me  in 
sullen  silence.  This,  however,  has  vanished  on  finding 


298 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


that  it  was  not  an  officer,  but  an  ingeniero  that  had  arrived  ; 
and  it  is  very  noticeable  that  a foreigner  is  treated  with 
more  cordiality  than  would  be  accorded  to  one  of  their  own 
countrymen. 

The  Peruvian  of  the  upper  class  is  well  educated  and 
companionable.  Probably  he  looks  on  life  from  a less 
serious  point  of  view  than  the  Anglo-Saxon  ; he  certainly 
appears  to  extract  more  enjoyment  from  it.  His  manners 
are  often  superior  to  many  of  the  foreigners  who  visit 
Peru,  and  he,  as  an  American,  stands  in  sharp  contrast 
with  the  American  of  the  Northern  Continent.  The  latter 
undoubtedly  represents  energy  and  enterprise,  but  the 
qualities  seem  often  to  require,  or  acquire,  a most  un- 
sympathetic exterior ; and  the  Americans  who  are  now 
entering  Peru — and  there  is  a growing  influx — do  not 
generally  reflect  North  American  culture.  However,  this 
condition  may  not  be  too  much  criticised ; the  two 
classes  can  hardly  be  compared,  for  the  Peruvian  repre- 
sents the  best  of  his  country,  whilst  the  American  in  Peru 
is  only  the  forerunner  of  a business  element. 

The  Peruvians  are  an  exceedingly  polite  people — 
too  polite  in  some  cases,  according  to  British  ideas.  In 
walking  along  the  streets  of  Lima,  or  on  any  fashionable 
promenade,  the  hat  rests  hardly  a moment  upon  the  head, 
as  every  male  acquaintance  is  saluted  by  raising  it.  This 
constant  hat-raising  between  men  always  strikes  even 
the  most  cosmopolitan  Englishman  as  troublesome  and 
effusive,  and  he  objects,  as  a general  rule,  to  acquire  the 
custom.  Politeness  is  also  greatly  governed  by  class 
distinctions,  and  this  is  to  be  observed  especially  in 
walking.  The  Peruvian  does  not  “ keep  to  the  right  ” 
upon  the  footpath,  as  generally  observed  in  England, 
but  it  is  considered  that  the  more  honourable  place  is  the 
inside,  nearest  the  wall.  Observe  a Peruvian  gentleman 
passing  along.  He  meets  an  acquaintance  who  is — in  his 
opinion — his  equal  or  superior  in  social  or  official  position. 
Behold  the  polite  raising  of  the  hat,  and  the  insistence 
that  the  other  pass  him  on  the  inside.  Sometimes  they 
will  positively  dispute  as  to  which  shall  take  the  inside. 


The  Peruvians 


299 


A little  further  on  he  meets  some  one  whom  he  may  or 
may  not  know,  but  whose  dress  proclaims  them,  woman  or 
man,  to  be  of  a lower  social  status  than  himself.  He 
immediately  passes  him  upon  the  inside.  His  course, 
therefore,  along  the  pavement  is  a sinuous  one,  winding  in 
and  out,  according  to  the  individuals  he  meets,  and  might 
almost  be  described  as  a curve  representing  grades  of 
social  standing.  This  same  custom  also  prevails  amongst 
ladies,  and  it  is  quite  painful  sometimes  to  observe  two 
women  passing  each  other,  when  both  may  consider  them- 
selves entitled  to  the  inside.  They  glare  at,  and  sometimes 
even  stop  and  confront  each  other  for  a moment.  Having 
made  this  criticism,  however,  it  must  be  recollected  that 
such  methods  are  not  peculiar  to  Peru  or  Spanish 
America;  they  are  found  in  Germany  and  France  often, 
and  even  Englishmen  are  exceedingly  touchy  upon  these 
matters  on  some  occasions. 

On  the  other  hand,  also,  Peruvian  politeness  often 
comes  from  kindness  of  heart;  and  they  are  a charitable 
people  towards  their  poor  as  regards  almsgiving,  whilst 
their  bearing  towards  foreigners  is  kind  and  hospitable. 

As  regards  international  matters,  the  Peruvian  has  not 
yet  a just  sense  of  proportion.  It  is  hardly  to  be  expected 
that  he  could  have  this — few  Spanish-American  countries 
have  it.  The  strong  sentiment  for  and  adoption  of  French 
ideas  and  methods,  which  formerly  obtained  in  Mexico  and 
similar  countries,  has  been  equally  marked  in  Lima,  and 
has  stamped  itself  strongly  upon  the  community.  But 
this  is  rather  giving  way  before  what  might  be  termed 
the  Anglo-Saxon  advance. 

For  a space  the  model  appeared  to  be  the  United 
States.  Every  one  pointed  to  the  “ Yankee,”  as  the 
North  American  is  generally  termed  (not  in  an  offensive 
way) ; and  American  methods  and  civilisation  were  often 
spoken  of  as  “ the  first  in  the  world  ” — the  untravelled 
American’s  estimate  of  his  country.  It  was  also  hoped 
that  the  United  States  would  intervene  in  the  question  of 
Tacna  and  Arica,  between  Peru  and  Chile,  in  favour  of 
the  former.  But  a natural  reaction  seems  to  be  taking 


300 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


place;  and  Peru,  in  common  with  other  South  American 
countries,  sees  that  her  big  neighbour  of  the  Northern 
Continent  offers  nothing  superior  to  the  more  cultured 
nations  of  Europe,  and  that  her  true  interests  lie  in  the 
cultivation  of  a world  policy,  and  not  a “ hemispherical  ” 
one.  The  Spanish  - American  youth  educated  in  the 
United  States  is  not  a happy  product.  London  is  the 
real  home  for  the  cosmopolitan  refinement  suited  to  their 
character.  Also,  American  capitalists  have  adopted  ex- 
ceedingly high-handed  methods  in  control  of  interests  in 
Peru,  which  have  opened  the  eyes  of  Peruvians  to  the 
necessity  for  an  equal  balance  of  things.  Nevertheless, 
North  American  enterprise  will  be  a useful  element  for 
the  Peruvians,  and  they  will  rightly  try  to  adopt  the 
methods  of  earnest  work  and  scientific  progress  of  the 
North  Americans.  But  they  must  refrain  from  grafting 
the  evils  of  that  country  on  to  their  own  stock.  The 
Spanish-American  has  inherited  a natural  refinement  of 
manner  and  certain  ideals ; it  would  be  a serious  error  if, 
deeming  these  antiquated,  he  should  strive  to  adopt  the 
less  pleasing  social  traits  of  the  American  of  the  United 
States ; or  the  growing  evils  of  that  country’s  social 
organisation.  The  Peruvian  loves  to  be  considered  a 
gentleman — Don  Quixote  flourishes  in  Peru — and  he  will 
far  more  carry  out  his  word  as  such,  than  his  obligation 
as  a business  man.  Appeal  to  him  through  this  higher 
sphere,  and  all  may  be  well  ; treat  with  him  only  through 
the  other,  and  you  will  be  mistaken  if  you  expect  the 
same  methods  as  an  Englishman  would  use.  Firmness 
must  be  an  adjunct  of  politeness  in  Spanish  America,  for 
it  is  to  be  recollected  that  the  Spanish-American  sometimes 
shows  that  “ oriental  ” trait,  product  of  an  inferior  civil- 
isation (whether  in  nations  or  individuals),  of  mistaking 
patience  and  courtesy  for  pusillanimity,  and  he  has,  also, 
something  of  the  Oriental’s  admiration  for  successful  guile, 
rather  than  an  abstract  love  of  truth. 

But  the  Peruvian  gentleman  is  certainly  hospitable; 
his  old-world  courtesy  is  graceful,  and  his  customs  and 
institutions,  even  if  they  are  at  times  a bar  to  his  country’s 


The  Peruvians 


301 


progress,  preserve  for  him  a certain  element  of  refinement 
which,  once  lost,  is  hard  to  regain. 

The  better-class  Peruvians  are  of  marked  European 
physiognomy  and  stature.  Peru,  it  is  to  be  recollected, 
was  in  South  America,  as  was  Mexico  in  North  America, 
the  chief  seat  of  the  Government  of  Spain  in  colonial  days, 
and  naturally  Spanish  culture  grew  around  Lima  as  a 
centre.  Indeed,  a certain  pride  of  birth  is  marked  among 
the  upper  class  in  Lima  and  others  of  the  other  principal 
cities  of  Peru  : a pride  which,  whilst  maintaining  a species 
of  aristocracy  after  the  European  manner,  is  partly 
responsible  for  the  strong  distinctions  of  classes,  and  the 
lack  of  social  development  consequent  thereon.  The 
learned  professions  are  much  sought  after,  especially  that 
of  the  law,  which  is  often  the  vehicle  to  political  posts 
The  cultured  Peruvians  are  scientific,  musical,  and  artistic  in 
their  tastes.  They  are  always  picturing  and  striving  after 
great  ideals,  and,  as  elsewhere  commented,  this  characteristic 
may  be  a valuable  element  in  the  future. 

The  Peruvian  woman  of  the  upper  class  is  generally 
handsome.  It  is  a matter  which  the  observer  cannot  fail  to 
note,  that  out  of  the  large  number  of  their  sex  which  he 
encounters,  on  the  streets  or  in  places  of  public  amusement, 
as  the  plazas,  the  racecourses,  and  the  promenades,  or  in 
the  churches,  so  large  a proportion  are  attractive  in  face 
and  form.  This  is  possibly  one  of  the  features  engendered 
of  small  communities.  It  seems  to  be  the  result  of  a sort 
of  natural  selection,  many  generations  of  breeding,  and 
marked  regime  of  refinement  of  a certain  nature.  For  these 
ladies  are  principally  of  a leisure  class,  and  the  matter  of 
personal  appearance  is,  at  any  rate  until  they  reach  a certain 
age,  the  most  important  which  enters  into  their  lives.  But 
their  beauty  is  not  either  artificial  or  fragile.  The  most 
expressive  eyes  and  a wealth  of  splendid  hair,  a singular 
power  of  expression  in  the  glance  and  language  ; the 
full,  ripe  lips  and  the  elegant  figure,  sensuous  in  its  curves 
and  grace  of  movement,  all  strongly  arrests  the  visitor’s 
attention.  To  the  foreigner  the  women  are  exceedingly 
attractive ; and  they  beam  so  indulgently  upon  him  that 


302 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


really  only  a heart  of  marble  could  fail  to  be  influenced  by 
their  magnetism.  Their  manners  are  distinguished,  and 
they  have  the  reserve  and  the  culture  inherited  from 
Spanish  custom  ; and  they  are  “ womenly  ” women,  such  as 
make  the  life  of  homes.  Like  all  women,  and  especially 
those  of  America,  be  it  North  or  South,  they  are  more 
refined  than  their  men.  Their  attractions  are — for  their 
different  type — in  nothing  inferior  to  the  women  of  North 
America,  and  they  are  more  lovable  in  that  they  still 
occupy  that  proper  domestic  sphere,  from  which  their 
Northern  sisters  seem  desirous  to  emancipate  themselves : 
and  to  which  the  latter  will  have  some  day  to  return ! 

Notwithstanding  their  customs  of  seclusion  and  their 
strict  Roman  Catholic  creeds  they  cordially  welcome  the 
“ heretic  ” foreigner.  I remember  those  flashing  eyes,  and 
the  half-suppressed  frankness  of  their  owner’s  conversation, 
and  with  what  satisfaction  have  I conversed  with  them  in 
their  expressive  language.  I have  in  mind  three  sisters, 
nieces  of  a past  President,  whom  I knew  well.  I remember 
once  telling  them  that  love — for  conversation  runs  largely 
on  this  theme — is  only  a “ secondary  passion,”  coming  after 
the  love  of  science  and  nature.  How  indignant  they  were — 
saying  that  Englishmen  had  no  hearts,  and  that  they  had 
heard  that  they  were  cruel  to  their  wives ! And  then, 
when  referring  to  some  religious  processions  that  had  taken 
place,  I asked  them  why  they  tolerated  those  “stupid 
wooden  images”  and  absurd  old  customs  of  the  priests, 
they  pretended  not  to  forgive  me.  The  criticism  as  to  the 
wooden  images,  etc.,  I had  not  made  in  pointless  rudeness, 
but  purposely,  for  it  is  sometimes  necessary,  in  order  to 
know  the  real  sentiment  underlying  habit  and  customs,  to 
probe  through  the  surface  of  ordinary  conventionalities. 

As  stated  elsewhere,  anything  pertaining  to  their 
Church  is  much  reverenced  by  the  women  in  Peru. 
This  sentiment,  of  course,  is  not  peculiar  to  Peru — it 
is  general  to  all  nations ; but  there  is  no  doubt  that 
there  it  is,  as  elsewhere,  largely  due  to  custom,  and 
that  change  may  affect  it. 

Peruvian  ladies  are,  in  conversation,  bright  and 


The  Peruvians 


303 


vivacious ; they  are  often  fond  of  light  badinage.  But 
what  is  most  strongly  noted  by  the  Englishman  is  the 
comparative  freedom  with  which  they  discuss  matters 
pertaining  to  the  relations  between  the  sexes,  such  as 
would  hardly  form  subjects  of  conversation  in  Britain. 
It  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  this  is  due  to  any  loose 
method  of  thought,  but  only  from  a different  point  of 
view,  which  sees  no  wrong  in  natural  matters,  such  as 
false  modesty  among  English  people  would  cause  to 
avoid.  For  example,  if  it  is  necessary  to  mention  in 
conversation  that  a lady  is  enceinte , the  fact  is  not  covered 
up  or  suppressed.  Divorce,  or  matters  relating  to  the 
domestic  affairs  of  their  friends,  are  frankly  discussed, 
as  of  ordinary  subjects  coming  under  notice.  This 
partly  arises  from  a less  serious  view  of  life  than  is 
held  among  Englishwomen ; and  there  is,  in  spite  of 
their  exacting  religious  ideals,  less  real  reverence,  or 
rather  more  familiarity,  touching  the  Divine  Persons  of 
their  creed.  For  instance,  the  first  ejaculation  of  surprise 
which  rises  to  a Peruvian  girl’s  lips  is  “Jesus!”  or  “ Dios 
Mio!” — terms  whose  equivalent  in  English  are  not  so 
used.  It  is  not  meant  to  be  so,  but  it  strikes  the 
Englishman  as  irreverent. 

To  foreign  eyes  the  Peruvian  woman,  or  at  any  rate 
the  Limena,  is  over-dressed.  She  enhances  her  charms 
by  too  costly  apparel,  and  appears  in  the  streets,  the 
restaurants,  and  the  promenades  in  dresses  that  in 
England  would  scarcely  be  found  outside  a ball-room. 
It  must  be  taken  into  account  that  the  climate  of  Lima 
is  very  mild ; changes  of  temperature  are  very  slight 
throughout  the  year;  there  is  no  real  winter,  and  rain 
is  almost  unknown.  This  condition  permits  a method 
of  dress  which  would  be  impossible  elsewhere.  Never- 
theless, there  is  no  doubt  that  in  common  with  women 
of  most  races,  the  women  of  Lima  are  often  prepared 
to  sacrifice  their  health  to  their  vanity ; and  even  on 
chilly  or  misty  evenings  these  fair  butterflies  of  fashion 
will  be  seen  in  their  light  costumes,  without  outer  wraps : 
presenting  a curious  contrast  to  the  husbands,  brothers, 


304 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


or  friends  who  accompany  them  — protected  from  the 
misty  weather  in  overcoats,  with  the  collars  turned  up ! 

For  a Peruvian  girl  all  roads  lead  to,  and  all  hours 
culminate  in,  the  day  she  marries.  She  loves  with  greater 
facility  than  an  English  girl — that  is,  the  apparatus  of  her 
heart  is  earlier  and  more  easily  set  in  motion,  and  she  is 
less  exigent  of  real  or  supposed  perfections  in  the  man 
who  adores  her,  and  whom  she  accepts.  Her  charms 
and  graces — and  she  has  many — are  meshes  in  the  subtle 
net  she  ever  weaves  within  her  waking  hours ; and  when 
the  net  has  involved  the  object  aimed  at,  the  crisis  of 
her  existence  is  past.  Once  she  becomes  a mother  she 
seems  to  lose  her  love  of  self-adornment,  and  rather  lets 
those  charms  she  formerly  possessed  lapse  into  disuse. 
She  becomes  a loving  and  careful  mother,  but  with 
little  object  in  life  save  the  rearing  of  a more  or  less 
numerous  family,  and  is  to  English  eyes  too  much  of 
a slave  to  its  growing  exigencies.  She  dresses  plainly, 
generally  in  black ; her  figure  loses  its  symmetry,  her 
conversation  its  charm,  and  she  seems  to  endeavour  to 
purposely  form  an  uninteresting  background,  against 
which  shine  forth  the  charms  of  the  new  generation  of 
sylphs  of  whose  being  she  is  the  author.  In  this  she 
reminds  the  traveller  of  the  women  of  Mexico. 

She  paints  and  powders  less  than  Spanish-American 
women  of  other  countries  ; but  she  shares  the  custom  of 
the  race  in  hygienic  matters.  Unless  upon  special  occasions, 
or  to  attend  early  mass,  she  does  not  perform  much  toilet 
until  the  day  is  far  advanced,  or  the  hour  of  “ receiving  ” 
arrives,  but  passes  the  early  morning  often  uncombed  and 
ungowned.  There  is  no  doubt  that  the  fault  of  not  taking 
exercise  tends  towards  an  earlier  fading,  for  beyond  the 
limits  of  the  polite  paseos  she  rarely  goes  out.  The 
custom  of  taking  vigorous  walks  or  pursuing  out-of-door 
sports,  so  much  a part  of  English  life,  is  unknown  to  the 
Peruvian  girl,  and  beyond  the  social  functions  of  her 
circle  her  chief  distraction  and  constant  daily  occupation 
is  the  attending  of  mass.  Whilst  it  would  be  unjust  to 
insinuate  that  this  frequent  attendance  at  temple  has  not 


The  Peruvians 


305 


at  base  a religious  motive,  nevertheless,  there  is  no  doubt 
that  if  all  the  temples  were  closed  her  chief  distraction 
would  be  gone. 

The  girls  of  Lima  are,  in  spite  of  their  attractions, 
too  pale.  This  is  due,  principally,  to  the  mild  and  non- 
invigorating climate  of  their  city,  whose  effects  they  do 
not  endeavour  to  combat  by  more  exercise,  or  more 
frequent  changes  into  the  splendid  and  bracing  air  of  the 
uplands  of  the  Andes.  The  women  of  the  towns  in  these 
higher  regions  are  far  more  robust,  and  in  their  faces 
glows  the  healthy  tint  of  wet  winds  and  brusque  and 
tonic  temperatures. 

But  this  paleness  is  considered  a special  mark  of 
beauty,  and  is  really  prized.  It  marks  the  difference 
between  the  “ coast  ” and  the  “ sierra,”  for,  be  it  known,  the 
inhabitants  of  the  capital,  and  indeed  of  the  coast  towns 
generally,  consider  themselves  much  superior  to  those 
who  are  of  the  uplands,  and  this  pallor  carries  with  it  a 
species  of  guarantee  that  its  bearer  has  little  of  the  dis- 
dained Indian  blood  in  her  composition ! This  is  the 
“colour  line”  of  Spanish  America,  and  it  is  stronger  in 
Peru  than,  for  example,  in  Mexico ; and  if  the  pallor 
does  not  exist  by  reason  of  Nature’s  beneficence,  it  is  often 
produced  artificially  by  the  use  of  powder. 

This  social  superiority  which  the  dwellers  of  the  capital 
arrogate  to  themselves  over  those  of  the  Provinces  is 
perhaps  a quality  of  all  Latin  nations,  and  in  Peru  has 
probably  resulted  from  the  adoption  of  French  ideas  which 
took  place  in  South  America  during  its  earlier  develop- 
ment. It  is  an  “idealist,”  rather  than  a “positivist” 
sentiment.  Every  Frenchman  is  supposed  to  have  come 
from  Paris. 

On  one  occasion  I almost  offended  a Peruvian  lady — 
inadvertently,  of  course-— by  asking  her  in  conversation 
when  she  intended  to  return  to  her  native  town  in  the 
interior.  “ Senor,  I am  a Limena  (a  native  of  Lima),”  she 
replied  haughtily.  I had  been  under  the  impression  that 
she  had  been  born  in  the  interior,  at  a beautifully-situated 
little  town  at  the  foot  of  the  Andes,  and  which  I had 

U 


306  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

just  visited.  But  I obtusely  refused  to  understand  the 
distinction. 

To  sum  her  up  as  a mental  impression  the  Peruvian 
woman,  or  lady — for  she  is  always  the  latter,  as  I have 
explained  elsewhere — forms  a gentle  and  refined  picture 
which  lingers  pleasingly  in  the  foreigner’s  mind.  She 
deserves  the  best  that  heaven  may  afford  her:  she  is 
among  the  fair  ones  of  all  the  fair  women  of  the  New 
World. 


I A . JJ.  HUttuzrds 


CHAPTER  XXX 


LIMA 

There  are  several  cities  in  South  America  which  have 
arrogated  to  themselves  the  term  of  the  “ Paris  of  South 
America,”  but  I have  not  heard  this  claim  put  forth  by 
the  people  of  Lima  for  their  city,  although  doubtless  she 
is  as  much  deserving  of  the  title  as  some  of  the  other 
cities. 

But  that  idea  of  centralisation,  which  would  attribute 
all  the  importance  of  a country  to  its  capital,  and  which 
prevails  among  Spanish-American  nations,  is  very  marked 
in  Lima.  There  exists  a saying  among  her  inhabitants 
to  the  effect  that  it  were  “possible  to  die  of  hunger  in 
Lima ; but  not  to  leave  it  ” ! And  this  idea  is  noticeable 
in  the  characteristics  of  the  Peruvian  men.  I have  some- 
times met,  in  the  interior  towns,  young  men  from  Lima 
who  had  ventured  forth  on  some  Government  errand. 
But  alas ! for  their  peace  of  mind.  They  sigh  only  for 
those  distant  “ flesh-pots  ” ; they  are  strangers  in  a strange 
land,  and  only  support  existence  until  such  time  as  their 
exile  may  terminate. 

Lima  is  a pleasant  and  attractive  city,  handsome  in 
many  respects.  There  are  certain  advantages  about 
communities  of  this  nature  whose  size  is  not  unwieldy. 
For  example,  you  can  easily  meet  all  your  friends  every 
day,  if  you  so  desire.  You  have  only  to  enter  the  clubs 
or  principal  restaurants  at  certain  hours,  and  there  they 
are.  There  is  nowhere  else  for  them  to  go  ; and  you  can 
run  a man  to  earth  within  half  an  hour,  at  most,  in  one 
of  the  usual  haunts.  Of  course  there  are  disadvantages, 
such  as  the  fact  that  in  this  sort  of  “large  family”  to 

307 


308 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


which  society  is  reduced  to  in  such  conditions,  everybody 
knows  everybody  else,  and  jealousies  and  estrangements 
sometimes  become  strong  between  rival  members  of  the 
community.  However,  it  must  be  remembered  that  such 
conditions  are  not  unknown  in  England.  The  society  of 
English  country  towns  often  leaves  a good  deal  to  be 
desired  from  an  ideal  point  of  view. 

One  of  the  most  marked  conditions  which  the 
traveller  observes  among  those  countries  which  have 
a republican  form  of  government  is  the  fact  that  true 
democratic  principles  and  methods  are  less  in  force 
than  in  monarchical  countries.  The  louder  and  more 
peremptory  is  the  cry  for  “ freedom”  and  for  “ liberty, 
fraternity,  and  equality,”  the  further  are  they  removed 
from  the  practical  exposition  of  these  qualities.  Nature 
at  times  seems  ironical ; to  the  too  exigent  she  yields 
the  semblance,  and  withholds  the  fact. 

There  is  nothing  about  the  actual  working  or  condition 
of  any  republic,  be  it  Anglo-Saxon  or  Latin,  which  is 
in  advance,  or  even  at  the  level  of  such  countries  as 
Great  Britain.  The  evolution  of  self  - government  in 
South  America  seems  slow,  and  Lima  has  been  no 
exception  to  the  condition.  It  is  ever  the  difference 
between  the  ideal  and  the  actual ; the  laws  are  excellent, 
but  they  are  not  always  enforced.  In  a Commonwealth, 
class  distinction  should  tend  to  fade  away ; in  no  com- 
munities of  the  Old  World  are  these  distinctions  more 
marked  than  in  Peru  and  her  sister  republics.  The 
res-publica  (the  public  things)  are  not  public;  they 
have  never  been  so ; they  have  been  arrogated  by  the 
few  to  their  own  enjoyment,  and  are  still  held  in 
monopoly.  Pride  of  caste  is  exceedingly  strong,  and 
brings  with  it  those  conditions  of  contempt  of  work 
and  love  of  luxury  which  a young  community  can  ill 
afford  to  indulge  in.  The  high  silk  hat,  the  fashion- 
able black  frock-coat,  the  patent  leather  shoes,  and  the 
gold  - headed  cane,  are  in  sharper  distinction  to  the 
labourer’s  apparel  and  the  beggar’s  rags  in  these 
‘‘republics”  than  in  the  monarchies  of  the  Old  World. 


Lima 


809 


It  always  strikes  the  Englishman  that  a rigid  course 
of  rough  tweed  suits,  thick-soled  boots,  and  long  tramps 
over  mountain  lands  would  be  exceedingly  beneficial  to 
the  polite  youth  of  Spanish  America!  Would  it  be 
possible  in  an  Anglo  - Saxon  community,  that  young 
men,  enjoying  health  and  wealth,  should  pass  their 
days  in  fashionable  idleness  and  their  nights  at  the 
billiard  and  card  tables,  whilst  upon  their  country’s 
maps  are  inscribed  the  words  “unexplored  territory”? 
And  this  territory  is  but  three  days’  journey  from  the 
billiard  tables  and  the  fashionable  bars ! 

There  are,  of  course,  some  among  the  Peruvians  who 
possess  the  true  spirit  of  enterprise  and  exploration,  but 
they  are  few.  Some  of  them  have  done  good  geographical 
and  scientific  work.  The  Geographical  Society  of  Lima 
is  a most  valuable  institution,  and  is  carrying  on  work 
of  much  importance.  No  mention  of  Peruvian  geography 
can  be  complete  without  associating  the  name  of  the 
famous  Raimondi,  savant , explorer,  and  geographer  of 
the  last  century,  who  laboured  so  diligently  to  map  and 
explore  the  country.  I have  spoken  elsewhere  of  his 
work. 

Also,  the  Society  of  Engineers  of  Peru  is  an  institution 
of  the  first  value.  Still  more  important  is  the  Engineering 
School,  which  is  directed  by  the  Government,  and  which 
turns  out  numbers  of  young  engineers.  These,  after 
having  concluded  their  studies,  are  appointed  by  the 
Department  of  Fomento , or  Public  Works,  to  investigate 
and  report  upon  the  mining  regions  of  the  interior : so 
that  an  accurate  knowledge  is  now  being  obtained  of 
them.  The  expenses  of  this  body  are  defrayed  by  the 
taxes  paid  upon  mining  property.  There  is  no  doubt 
that  this  is  a wise  institution,  and  by  its  means  well 
educated  young  men,  who  generally  have  no  other 
resource  than  those  which  their  work  gives  them,  are 
beginning  to  make  known  the  rich  and  extensive  territory 
which  is  the  heritage  of  their  country.  The  credit  of 
having  set  this  institution  on  a firm  footing  is  due  to  one 
of  the  recent  Presidents  of  Peru,  Senor  Romana,  who 


310 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


was  himself  an  engineer,  educated  in  England.  Other 
useful  institutions  in  Lima  are  the  Sociedad  Nacional 
de  Mineria,  the  Sociedad  Nacional  de  Agricultura,  and 
the  School  of  Agriculture,  which  are  engaged  in  foment- 
ing these  respective  industries.  There  are  many  other 
scientific  institutions  in  Lima  relating  to  the  various 
professions. 

As  regards  its  general  aspect,  Lima  is  pleasing  and 
well  ordered.  It  is  built  on  the  usual  plan  of  Spanish- 
American  capitals,  and  the  buildings  are  generally  of 
the  type  common  to  these  cities.  From  the  plaza  run 
the  main  streets,  intersected  by  the  cross-streets  after 
the  well-known  “ gridiron  ” plan.  The  blocks  so  formed 
are  about  ioo  metres  square.  The  houses  are  some- 
times of  one,  generally  of  two  stories  in  height.  Some 
are  under  construction  of  three  stories,  but  the  streets 
are  not  wide ; and  such  a system,  if  continued  exten- 
sively, would  shut  out  the  light  and  air,  and  spoil  the 
appearance  of  the  city. 

The  buildings  are  generally  constructed  of  brick  and 
adobe ; upper  stories  are  often  of  lighter  structure  of 
wooden  scantlings  filled  in  with  other  material.  High 
buildings  are  not  only  unadvisable  from  an  aesthetic  point 
of  view,  but  dangerous,  on  account  of  earthquake  shocks, 
which  must  always  be  reckoned  with. 

The  main  p/asa  is  always  a pleasant  feature  of  these 
cities.  It  is  the  pulse  of  the  whole  community,  in  a sense. 
One  side  is  occupied  by  the  Cathedral,  another  by  the 
National  Palace,  where  State  functions  are  held  ; whilst 
hotels,  clubs,  shops,  and  Municipal  buildings,  etc.,  occupy 
the  remaining  portion.  The  enclosed  area  is  beautifully 
planted  with  flowers  and  shrubs,  and  a fountain  plays 
constantly  in  the  centre.  On  certain  evenings  during  the 
week  a band  performs.  But  it  is  not  the  fashionable  class 
who  attend.  Indeed,  no  one  of  the  ilite  is  ever  observed 
there ; it  is  a function  which,  however,  gives  vast  pleasure 
to  the  lower  middle  class,  and  to  the  pueblo  or  working 
class.  Here  the  happy  populace  promenades,  drinking 
in  the  music,  the  scent  of  the  flowers,  and  the  mild  evening 


air. 


Lima 


311 


The  fashionable  promenade  of  Lima  is  the  new  and 
handsome  paseo  or  drive  of  Colon.  On  Sunday  afternoon 
a band  plays  here,  and  all  the  youth,  beauty,  and  wealth  of 
the  city  attends,  some  in  carriages,  some  on  horseback, 
but  the  greater  part  on  foot. 

There  is  always  a certain  glamour  of  historical  interest 
hanging  over  the  capitals  of  Spanish  America,  especi- 
ally of  such  countries  as  Peru  and  Mexico,  which  were 
the  principal  centres  of  Spanish  Government  during  the 
Colonial  period.  There  is  something  charming  and  restful 
about  the  old-world  houses  with  their  balconies  and  patios  ; 
something  romantic  and  interesting  in  the  secluded  air 
of  their  barred  windows  and  the  quiet  streets  upon  which 
they  look.  They  are  the  antithesis  of  the  manufacturing 
towns  of  other  countries — and  may  they  ever  remain  so  ! 

There  is  nothing  of  the  rude  struggle  for  life  so  palpable 
elsewhere,  especially  in  North  America  ; and  nothing  could 
be  more  removed  from  the  blatant  roar,  the  glare,  the 
vulgarity  of  too  many  of  the  cities  of  the  United  States  : 
the  unlovely  necessary  condition  or  phase  through  which 
Anglo-Saxon  communities  seem  bound  to  pass,  and  which 
they  must  lose  as  real  civilisation  advances. 

Lima,  and  her  sister  cities  of  Spanish  America,  will  err 
much  if  they  strive  to  eliminate  from  their  midst  their 
manners  and  architecture.  These  are  the  gifts  of  their 
progenitors : they  are  the  work  of  time,  and  must  not 
be  hastily  cast  aside  for  the  adoption  of  other  methods 
which  are  assigned  by  destiny  to  be  the  attributes  of  other 
nations. 


CHAPTER  XXXI 


LIMA — Continued 

The  City  of  Lima  looks  well,  as  from  the  approaching 
steamer’s  deck  the  passenger  beholds  it  from  afar.  It  lies 
amid  its  green  campina , or  cultivated  lands,  and  the  haze 
and  atmosphere  of  distance  swathes  it  in  that  medium 
of  ethereality,  that  enchantment,  which  distance  lends. 

The  steamers  which  unceasingly  ply  up  and  down 
the  Pacific  Coast  — their  long  trajectory  from  Panama 
to  Valparaiso,  and  from  Valparaiso  to  Panama  of  more 
than  3»ooo  miles — are  comfortable.  The  cabins  are  all 
on  deck,  for  on  this  calm  ocean  such  a type  of  steamer 
may  safely  exist.  True,  advantage  is  often  taken  of  this 
reputation  for  calmness  to  load  the  upper  deck  with  bales 
of  cotton  or  other  matters,  which,  did  a gale  arise,  might 
cause  the  steamer  to  roll.  But  accidents  are  remarkably 
rare.  Indeed,  such  is  the  security  that  there  seems  to  have 
been  bred  a contempt,  or  rather  neglect,  of  possible  danger. 
On  all  the  numerous  voyages  that  I have  made  on  these 
steamers,  extending  over  several  years,  up  and  down  the 
Pacific  Coast,  I have  never  seen  drill  of  any  description 
practised  ; and  it  is  doubtful  if,  in  case  of  fire  or  disaster, 
the  boats  would  be  lowered  and  manned  in  time  for  the 
passengers’  salvation.  Of  course,  these  are  coasting 
steamers,  and  are  rarely  out  of  sight  of  land,  but,  never- 
theless, accident  might  be  followed  by  disaster,  and  boat 
drill,  such  as  takes  place  on  the  Royal  Mail  steamers  on 
the  east  coast  of  South  America,  should  be  practised  for 
the  sake  of  prudence. 

The  necessity  for  quarantine,  and  its  regulations  on  the 
Pacific  Coast  of  South  America,  are  exceedingly  trouble- 

312 


Lima 


313 


some  at  times  to  the  traveller.  Whilst  these  regulations 
are,  of  course,  necessary,  they  are  unfortunately  exagger- 
ated in  a retaliatory  manner  between  the  various  Republics 
of  that  coast,  at  whose  ports  the  steamers  call.  Chile 
quarantines  vessels  coming  from  Peru  ; Peru  quarantines 
vessels  proceeding  from  Ecuador  or  Colombia ; and  these 
all  retaliate  in  kind  whenever  the  opportunity  presents, 
beyond  the  real  necessities  of  the  case.  Now  the  North 
Americans,  having  obtained  possession  of  Panama  and 
Colon,  make  rigorous  quarantine  exactions  against  all 
these  countries,  and  whilst  American  sanitary  methods 
are  good,  and  will  have  a good  effect  in  South  America, 
nevertheless  the  Americans  are  fond  of  red  tape,  and 
sometimes  of  petty  officialdom  and  tyranny  in  such 
matters.  However,  as  regards  the  Spanish- Americans, 
these  numerous  and  prolonged  quarantine  regulations 
have  their  “ useful  ” side : do  they  not  give  employment 
and  pay,  with  an  easy  billet,  to  a number  of  doctors  and 
political  adherents  ? But  intending  travellers  need  not 
be  alarmed  at  the  matters  of  yellow  fever  and  plague. 
These  are  quite  benignant  on  that  coast — especially  in 
Peru  and  Chile ; and  the  remedy  is  perhaps  more  trouble- 
some than  the  disease. 

The  two  steamship  lines  which  perform  a regular 
bi-weekly  service  from  Panama  to  Valparaiso,  calling  at 
all  ports  on  the  coast,  including  Guayaquil,  Payta,  Callao, 
Mollendo,  Iquique,  etc.,  are,  as  before  stated,  comfortable 
and  well-appointed  vessels  ; and  it  is  a tribute  to  British 
seamanship  that  all  the  Captains  of  this  numerous  fleet  are 
Britishers,  whether  on  the  Chilian  line  or  the  English. 
There  is  not — or  was  not — a single  Captain  of  South 
American,  or,  indeed,  of  any  other  nationality,  among 
them.  There  is  also  a good  German  line  : the  “ Kosmos.” 

The  methods  of  debarcation  at  Callao  for  Lima,  or, 
indeed,  any  of  the  ports  on  the  coast,  are  not  comfortable 
for  the  passenger.  It  would  have  been  supposed  that  the 
steamer  would  dock,  at  least  in  the  main  ports,  or  that 
a launch  would  come  alongside  to  take  the  passengers  and 
their  luggage  off.  Nothing  of  the  kind.  The  steamer 


314 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


anchors  some  way  out,  and  is  immediately  delivered  over 
to  an  army  of  bandits  and  buccaneers.  That  is  to  say,  the 
boatmen  and  baggage  men  who  swarm  all  over  the  ship, 
and  seize  passengers  and  luggage,  are  the  only  method  of 
getting  ashore.  These  good-natured  bandits — for  they  are, 
on  the  one  hand,  very  serviceable  fellows — charge  what 
they  like  on  delivering  up  the  baggage  at  the  hotel ; and  if 
the  passenger  is  not  accustomed  to  their  ways,  they  will 
get  a pretty  fee  out  of  him.  I once  protested  against  this 
method  to  an  official  of  the  steamer,  when  he  replied  that 
he  was  obliged  to  permit  it,  as  the  steamers  were  under 
some  regulation  to  anchor  away  from  the  wharf  on 
purpose  to  give  these  boatmen  a living.  Personally,  1 
rather  like  these  picturesque  and  jovial  bandits,  but  all 
are  not  of  that  way  of  thinking — or  equally  philan- 
thropic. 

The  port  of  Callao  is  an  important  shipping  centre,  but 
not  attractive  as  a town,  and  the  visitor  loses  no  time  in 
going  to  Lima — about  half  an  hour  distant,  inland — by 
swift  electric  car  service.  The  electric  system,  it  may  be 
mentioned,  is  worked  from  a hydro-electric  station  on  the 
river  Rimac,  which  descends  from  the  Cordillera  of  the 
Andes.  Here  electric  energy  is  generated,  and  several 
urban  and  suburban  railways  arc  actuated  and  supplied 
therefrom,  as  well  as  the  lighting  of  the  city  and  adjoin- 
ing watering  - places  on  the  coast  The  company  which 
inaugurated  and  maintains  this  enterprise  is  entirely 
Peruvian,  no  foreign  element  entering  into  it,  so  far, 
and  is  an  example  of  good  industrial  development  in 
Lima. 

Callao  has  during  its  past  history  been  terribly  afflicted 
by  earthquakes  and  tidal  waves,  as  described  in  a subse- 
quent chapter.  In  olden  times  it  was  often  marked  as 
the  prey  of  foreign  adventurers  and  buccaneers,  for  it  was 
the  principal  port  of  embarcation  for  the  gold  and  silver 
which  came  down  from  the  interior,  and  whence  well-laden 
galleons  and  plate-ships  turned  their  prows  for  Spain,  to 
fill  the  coffers  of  his  Catholic  Majesty,  falling,  occasionally 
and  incidentally,  into  the  maw  of  Devonshire  adventurers, 


Lima 


315 


such  as  Drake,  and  others,  some  of  whose  exploits  I 
have  transcribed  from  Spanish  chroniclers  in  the  follow- 
ing chapter.  Plymouth  was  ever  a favourite  point  of 
departure  for  explorers  and  hardy  adventurers  in  those 
stirring  days,  and  between  Plymouth  and  Spanish 
America  there  is  much  historic  association  on  such 
matters. 

Peru  is  one  of  the  few  strongholds  of  Roman  Catholicism 
remaining  in  South  America.  That  is  to  say,  that  the 
cult  of  any  other  religion  is  illegal,  and  the  Church  belong- 
ing to  the  British  community  in  Lima  is  only  supposed 
to  be  allowed  to  exist  by  courtesy.  It  is,  of  course,  never 
interfered  with.  But  this  toleration  is  not  displayed  in 
the  interior  of  the  country,  and  a Methodist  or  Missionary 
Society  that  was  established  in  Cuzco  has  suffered  repeated 
attacks  from  the  fanatic  clergy,  and  the  people  instigated 
thereby.  There  is  no  doubt  that  this  clergy  would,  if  they 
could  do  so  with  impunity,  destroy  by  every  means  in 
their  power,  and  with  as  much  cruelty  and  intolerance,  any 
rival  religion  which  might  be  established  there,  in  the 
spirit  of  the  dark  and  bloody  Inquisitions  of  old. 

It  is  the  character  and  principle  of  the  Papist  Church 
to  persecute  and  destroy ; not  to  outshine  or  become 
superior  to  its  adversaries.  I make  this  statement 
disinterestedly,  for  I am  not  pretending  to  advocate  the 
advisability  of  establishing  missionary  or  evangelical 
works  among  the  Indians  of  Peru.  It  is  quite  doubtful 
if  the  unlovely  attributes  which  sometimes  attend  Anglo- 
Saxon  nonconformity  would  be  desirable  for,  or  could 
flourish  in  that  soil.  The  Indian  has  had  enough  of 
“ religion  ” during  the  centuries  since  he  was  first  perse- 
cuted and  murdered  under  the  shadow  and  authority  of 
the  Cross  ! 

The  basis  of  the  Roman  Catholic  religion  which  has 
been  instilled  into  the  Indian  is  sufficient.  It  has  some 
good  points,  but  requires  purifying  from  temporal  abuses, 
when  it  will  serve  as  well  as  any  other.  It  is  the  intel- 
lectual and  industrial  side  of  life  of  the  unfortunate  South 
American  Indian  which  must  be  bettered — his  social  and 


316  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

economic  surroundings  must  be  raised,  and  all  else  will  I 
follow.  The  religion  of  the  Incas  might  have  drawn  the 
Indian  on  to  civilisation;  the  religion  of  Maria  and  the 
priests,  if  freed  from  ignorance,  abuse,  and  superstition, 
might  also  have  redeemed  him  when  his  own  natural 
faith  was  ruthlessly  tom  away  ; and  to  plant  Anglo-Saxon 
nonconformity  upon  him  now,  or  any  other  religion, 
would  but  exaggerate  his  troubles.  His  real  well-wishers 
will  strive  to  raise  him  socially,  and  Church  missionaries, 
if  they  look  to  Peru — as,  indeed,  all  South  America — as 
a field  for  effort,  should  study  this.  Latin  nations,  it 
seems  probable,  have  to  pass  through  a reaction — from 
Papistry  to  materialism,  and  even  atheism.  When  that 
phase  is  over — and  it  may  be  short-lived — then,  on  the 
wave  of  a new  rebound,  some  chastened  and  philosophical 
Christianity  or  religion  may  be  offered — such  as  even  now 
begins  to  claim  the  attention  of  thinking  men  of  all 
nations  ; the  errors  of  their  own  Churches  discovered  and 
denounced. 

In  Lima  the  religious  or  Church  feasts  are  important 
ceremonies,  and  the  President,  his  Cabinet,  staff,  and  the 
army,  attend  them.  Picturesque  and  interesting  they 
doubtless  are,  as  they  deploy  in  the  plaza  and  fill  the 
Cathedral.  Hut  it  occurs  to  the  foreigner  who  observes 
the  unlimbered  cannons,  ammunition  carts,  and  haversacks 
at  Easter  time,  to  ask,  “ What  is  the  connection  between 
mule-batteries  and  Jesus  Christ?” — not  in  a flippant,  but 
a philosophical  sense! 

These  evidences  of  martial  power,  and  these  accoutre- 
ments of  tyranny  are  more  connected,  however,  with  the 
establishing  of  “ liberty  " than  of  religion.  Lima  is  the 
capital  of  the  country,  and  it  is,  of  course,  here  that  the 
main  struggle  for  the  coveted  post  of  President  is  waged. 

To  speak  of  Lima  and  Peru  is  to  speak  of  the  whole  of 
Spanish  America,  as  regards  political  matter  and  changes 
of  Government.  The  machinery  of  self  - government  in 
Spanish-American  countries  is  theoretically  good.  Unfor-  i 
tunately  in  practice  it  lends  itself  to  abuse,  and  is  a 
standing  example  of  how  useless  laws  are  to  a community, 


Lima 


317 


when  they  are  not  followed  out,  and  how  useless  is  their 
action  if  they  are  unaccompanied  by  morality  in  their 
administration.  The  kindest  thing  to  say  about  self- 
government  in  these  communities  is  that  it  has  hardly  had 
time  to  mature — that  it  is  an  excellent  plant  which  strives 
to  grow,  but  which  is  continually  being  pulled  up  by  the 
roots.  The  race  does  not  appear  to  be  able  to  govern 
itself  yet.  It  was  probably  too  soon  released  from  the 
influence  of  “ Authority,”  or  was  unfortunate  in  not  having 
been  developed  under  a different  kind  of  authority  than 
that  which  Spain  afforded.  The  real  difficulty  is  not 
hard  to  see.  When  in  a community  all  individuals  are 
theoretically  equal,  it  is  naturally  hard  for  some  part 
of  it  to  have  to  bow  to  some  other  part,  which  has  by 
some  means  attained  power  of  administration  over  the 
whole  body.  They  are  in  the  position  of  school-boys,  or 
brothers,  domineered  over  or  bullied  by  their  fellows,  and 
who  reserve  the  opportunity  to  punch  the  latters’  heads 
at  the  earliest  possible  moment ! The  whole  process  is 
briefly  as  follows : — A number  of  politicians  and  military 
men — generally  ambitious  and  unscrupulous  people  with 
nothing  to  do  and  a certain  income — get  together,  and 
nominate  a certain  one  of  their  number  for  President. 
He,  in  return  for  this,  holds  out  to  them  the  spoils  of 
various  offices.  The  “ election  ” is  held — if  the  word  may 
be  used  in  description  of  the  method  of  bribery,  coercion, 
and  falsifying  which  takes  place.  The  losing  side,  knowing 
that,  had  they  been  able,  they  would  have  defrauded, 
are  perfectly  sure  that  they  have  been  defrauded,  and  do 
all  in  their  power  to  oust  the  elected  Chief,  using  arms, 
if  strong  enough. 

Supposing,  however,  that  the  elected  President  and  his 
followers  control  the  army  and  are  able  to  hold  their  own, 
the  Cabinet,  formed  in  many  cases  of  the  assisting  Generals 
or  other  prominent  supporters  of  the  cause,  sets  itself  to 
put  in  motion  the  machinery  of  laws  and  government.  If, 
now,  however  illegal  the  methods  by  which  they  may  have 
come  into  power,  they  would  confine  themselves  to  really 
endeavouring  to  employ  this  machinery  for  the  good  of  the 


318 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


community,  they  would  succeed  ; peace  would  be  estab- 
lished, commerce  would  prosper,  and  the  country  would 
develop  along  natural  lines.  The  names  of  the  President 
and  his  Ministers  would  grow  to  be  respected,  and  would 
go  down  to  the  history  of  their  country  as  “ great  patriots  ” 
— a term  they  are  very  fond  of. 

But  too  often  they  do  not.  Not  content  with  what 
they  may  gain  by  their  salaries  or  legitimate  opportunities 
in  office,  they  too  often  employ  unjust  and  illegal  means, 
and  end  by  misappropriating  the  funds  belonging  to  the 
country  or  diverting  them  in  a variety  of  ingenious  ways 
to  their  own  benefit.  Even  if  they  would  draw  the  line 
at  a moderate  amount  of  abuse,  and  still  carry  on  the 
administration  of  the  country  in  a broad  - minded  and 
liberal  way,  all  would  be  well ; but,  as  a general  rule, 
they  cannot.  There  does  not  seem  to  be  much  spirit  of 
political  generosity  in  the  Spanish  - American  character, 
and  their  late  opponents,  instead  of  being  won  over,  are 
harried  and  deprived  of  any  opportunity  to  co-operate, 
whilst  the  adherents  of  these,  or  of  a former  regime , are, 
sooner  or  later,  and  on  various  pretexts,  kicked  out  of 
any  position  they  might  hold  — large  or  petty  — and 
favourites  of  the  governing  power  established. 

What  is  the  result?  Exasperated  by  this  treatment, 
the  others  show  their  hatred.  They  organise  in  protest, 
and  a revolution  is  born  ; there  is  a hail  of  rifle-bullets, 
a rain  of  blood  ; public  order  has  turned  to  public  murder ; 
perhaps  they  gain  the  day.  General  Blanco1  succeeds 
General  Rojo.2  Viva  General  Blanco,  the  great  Patriot ! 
Down  with  General  Rojo ! Disorder  and  murder  are 
again  the  parents  of  order  and  administration,  but  the 
exponents  of  these,  bearing  the  inevitable  stamp  of  their 
progenitors,  develop  the  same  features  later  on,  and  the 
same  operation  is  gone  through  again  and  again.  Occa- 
sionally a Dictator  arises,  however,  who  is  able  to  accom- 
plish something  good,  as  witness  Diaz,  of  Mexico. 

During  the  last  election  in  Lima  I often  took  my  stand 
in  a balcony  overlooking  the  plaza , to  observe  the  rival 
* White,  * Red. 


Lima 


819 


bands  parading  the  streets.  There  was  not  much  disturb- 
ance, however — not  like  that  on  a previous  occasion  some 
ten  years  ago,  when  gatling  guns  were  turned  on  to  the 
people  in  the  balconies,  and  dead  bodies  were  extracted 
therefrom  days  afterwards!  For,  as  I have  stated  else- 
where, greater  prudence  and  peace  marks  the  elections. 

From  my  balcony  in  the  evening  I hear  the  cries  of 
rival  bands  of  the  adherents  of  one  or  the  other  candi- 
dates for  Presidency.  The  candidates  on  this  occasion 
are  respectively  Senor  Nicholas  Pierola  and  Doctor  Jose 
Pardo ; and  feeling  about  them  seemed  equal  so  far.  As 
I listen  : a tumult  suddenly  sounds  above  the  ordinary 
noise  of  street  traffic.  “ Viva  Pardo  ! ” resounds  from  the 
plaza  below.  “ Viva  Pierola ! ” is  immediately  and  hotly 
replied.  “ Pardo ! Pardo ! Pardo ! ” is  the  deafening 
answer,  and  “ Pierola  ! Pierola  ! Pierola  ! ” is  returned  with 
equal  energy.  The  crowds  move  on,  and  their  cries 
become  fainter,  but  they  must  have  been  joined  by  other 
adherents,  for  a louder  and  fiercer  shout  of  “ Viva  Pardo ! ” 
smites  the  evening  air,  and  an  answering  roar  of  “ Viva 
Pierola ! ” winds  over  the  city  and  resounds  from  the 
Cathedral  facade.  “ Pardo  ! Pardo  ! Pardo  ! ” again  I hear, 
and  “ Bang ! bang ! bang ! ” is  the  reply,  for  some  one 
has  fired  a revolver.  But  only  into  the  air,  and  the 
rival  bands  pursue  their  several  ways  along  the  side 
streets,  from  whence  comes  floating  to  my  balcony  the 
sound,  softened  by  distance,  of  “ Pardo  ! Pardo  ! Pardo  ! ” 
and  “ Pierola  ! Pierola  ! Pierola  ! ” The  long  and  elegant 
leaves  of  the  platanos,  or  banana  plants,  in  the  plaza 
stir  softly  in  the  faint  air ; the  electric  arcs  above  shed 
down  their  brilliance,  paled  before  the  rising  moon  behind 
the  grim  Cathedral  tower ; the  figures  of  saints  upon  the 
parapet  gaze  stonily  down,  and  the  hurrying  gendarmes 
and  mounted  soldiers  have  left  to  head  off  a possible 
disturbance  upon  a side  street.  All  is  peace  below  me, 
yet  from  afar,  as  I listen,  again  comes  a faint  sound— 

“ Viva  Pardo  ! ” “ Viva  Pierola  ! ” 


CHAPTER  XXXII 


LIMA — Con  tinued 

Pardo  gained  the  day,  and  at  present  fills  the  Presidential 
chair,  wisely  and  judiciously,  as  was  to  be  expected. 
Pi£rola  was  also  a capable  man,  and  sagely  forbore 
to  vent  his  disappointment  in  urging  his  followers 
to  revolution.  Neither  men  were  militaires,  and  the 
Government  is  entirely  a civil  one.  But  feeling  ran 
high,  as  where  does  it  not  during  election  time?  As 
I was  wandering  about  the  city,  in  pursuance  of  my 
liking  to  examine  things  alone,  I was  suddenly  con- 
fronted by  a band  of  excited  negro  women.  “ Whom 
do  you  viva,  Seftor?”  they  demanded.  Here  was  a 
dilemma.  Personally,  1 had  little  choice  or  selection  in 
the  matter  (although  1 rather  preferred  Doctor  Pardo) — 
there  was  not  much  difference  in  the  principles  of  the 
two  contestants  for  Presidency,  as  both  were  pledged 
to  civil  government.  If  I had  said,  “Viva  Pardo!” 
they  might  have  been  on  Pidrola’s  side,  and  discharged 
some  over  - ripe  eggs  in  my  direction ; whilst  if  they 
were  Pardo’s  adherents,  and  I said,  “ Viva  Pterola ! ” 
the  same  thing  might  have  happened.  So,  assuming 
a superior  air,  I said:  “ Vivan  los  Ingleses!”  (“Hurrah 
for  the  Englishmen  ”) ; and  they,  seeing,  of  course,  my 
nationality,  burst  into  laughter  and  applause,  and  made 
way  for  me  on  the  inside  of  the  pavement. 

Still  further  on  a similar  incident  befell  me.  This 
time  a group  of  rough-looking  workmen  asked,  as  they 
confronted  me:  “Whom  do  you  viva , Seiior?”  To  this 
I replied  gravely:  “Viva  la  paz,  caballeros;  Abajo  la 
revolucion  !”  (“  Hurrah  for  peace,  gentlemen  ; down  with 

320 


The  President,  Doctor  Jose  Pardo. 


ice  p 320. 


Lima  321 

revolution ! ”)  — a sentiment  which  found  echo  in  their 
breasts,  for  they  cheered  as  I passed  on. 

The  chief  matters  which  occupy  the  attention  of  the 
present  President  and  his  Cabinet — many  of  the  members 
of  which  are  capable  men — are  principally  those  relating 
to  the  extension  of  their  railway  system,  and  which  is 
perhaps  the  most  important  of  all : those  relating  to 
the  improvement  of  the  indigenous  race  of  the  country, 
and  those  touching  the  matters  of  boundary  and  frontiers 
with  their  neighbours.  Another  long-outstanding  matter 
is  that  of  the  settlement  of  a question  with  a British 
Company  which  controls  the  railways  of  Peru,  and  which 
is  known  in  financial  circles  as  the  “ Peruvian  Corpora- 
tion.” This  Company  took  over  the  responsibilities  of 
Peru’s  debt  some  years  ago,  receiving  in  return  the 
administration  of  the  railways  and  their  earnings,  with 
certain  concessions  relating  to  guano,  and  also  lands 
in  the  Montana.  The  relations  between  the  Peruvian 
Government  and  this  Company  have  been  far  from 
happy,  and  efforts  are  continually  being  made  to  adjust 
them.  It  is  not  intended  here  to  form  any  judgment 
on  the  matter  — it  is  a delicate  question,  and  only  its 
general  circumstances  will  be  stated.  The  Government, 
in  the  agreement  between  them  and  the  Company, 
agreed  to  pay  the  latter  a large  sum  of  money  per 
annum ; whilst  the  Company,  for  its  part,  agreed  to 
construct  a certain  number  of  miles  of  railway  yearly. 
Neither  has  fulfilled  its  part.  The  Corporation  alleges 
bad  faith  against  the  Government,  and  the  latter  retorts 
that  the  Company  has  slandered  it  abroad  and  pre- 
vented foreign  enterprise  coming  to  the  country.  It 
was  certainly  a large  amount  of  money  to  expect  a 
poor  country  like  Peru  to  pay,  and  probably  the  original 
basis  and  antecedents  of  the  affair  are  to  blame  on 
both  sides.  Be  it,  however,  as  it  may,  the  disinterested 
Englishman  can  only  regret  that  so  splendid  a field 
for  industrial  enterprise  as  Peru  has  been  neglected, 
partly  from  this  cause.  The  Company  might  have  con- 
trolled an  Empire,  and  its  riches  might  have  rolled  into 

x 


322  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

their  coffers.  Even  as  it  is  they  reap  a good  return 
from  the  operation  of  the  railways.1 

As  has  been  stated,  the  machinery  of  self-government 
in  Peru  is  good  theoretically,  but  there  has  not  been 
time,  nor  is  there  always  disposition,  for  it  to  acquire 
stability  and  progress.  Peru  embraces  a great  territory — 
several  times  the  size  of  Great  Britain  and  Ireland.  For 
its  administrative  ends  it  is  divided  into  sections,  but 
has  not  been  able  to  obtain  or  dispose  first-class  elements 
for  administrators,  especially  away  from  its  capital.  The 
political  organisation  is  composed  of  three  elements : 
first,  the  Legislative  power,  as  embodied  in  the  Senators 
and  Deputies  of  the  various  Provinces  or  “ Departments”; 
secondly,  the  Executive,  as  represented  by  the  President 
and  his  Cabinet;  and  thirdly,  the  Judicial,  consisting  of 
the  Supreme  Court  and  Judges  of  First  and  Second 
Instance.  There  are  twenty -one  Departments,  corre- 
sponding to  states,  or  shires  in  other  countries,  which 
are  subdivided  into  provinces,  and  again  into  districts. 
The  heads  of  Departments  are  termed  Prefects,  those 
of  Provinces  Sub- Prefects,  and  of  Districts  Gobernadores. 
Of  these  latter  there  are  about  790 — a formidable  number 
— and  who,  although  subordinate  to  the  other  powers, 
come  more  into  contact  with,  and  are  more  able  to 
influence,  for  good  or  evil,  the  population  among  which 
they  live  than  the  higher  officials.  It  is  these  petty 
officials — the  Gobernadores — whose  standing  and  calibre 
must  be  raised  before  much  improvement  can  take  place 
among  the  Indian  population  of  the  country.  The 
Government  should  establish  a special  u School  ” of 
Gobernadores.  They  might  invite  young  Englishmen 
or  Germans  to  fill  the  posts ! They  could  offer  un- 
limited land  as  recompense,  but  probably  no  salary  ; and 
it  is  certain  that  the  Peruvian  of  the  better  class  will 
not  leave  their  cities  to  undertake  the  work,  even  if 
he  were  of  a character  such  as  to  successfully  perform 
it.  The  best  governing  nation  in  the  world  is  Great 


1 This  question  is  now  under  settlement. 


Lima  323 

Britain,  and  her  Colonial  methods  should  be  studied  by 
the  Peruvian  Government. 

The  buildings  of  Lima  are,  among  the  older  ones, 
picturesque,  but  the  modern  structures,  like  those  of 
Spanish  America  generally,  run  too  much  to  stucco  and 
plaster.  Is  it  the  mark  of  an  evanescent  race  not  to 
build  solid  and  enduring  structures  of  stone  ? Around 
Lima  are  splendid  granite  quarries : why  should  they  use 
adobe  and  stucco?  In  the  main  plaza  a grand  new 
national  palace  is  projected.  This  will  probably  be  of 
the  bastard  classic  style  imported  from  Europe  or  the 
United  States.  Why  should  not  the  Inca  order  be 
adopted  ? Those  buildings  endure  for  ever,  and  are  in 
great  part,  it  seems  to  me,  the  result  of  an  adaptation 
to  environment  in  architecture — the  environment  of  con- 
tinual earthquake  shocks ; for  the  solid  blocks  and  thick 
walls  of  their  single-story  structures  have  resisted  seismic 
disturbances,  and  seem  to  have  been  dictated  by  a 
study  of  Nature.  I make  the  suggestion  in  a kind  spirit, 
and  trust  to  be  pardoned  by  the  Peruvians  these  criticisms 
of  their  own  affairs,  which  have  protruded  themselves 
into  these  modest  chronicles. 

One  of  the  conditions  which  most  arrests  the  foreigner’s 
attention  in  Lima  is  the  enormous  number  of  lottery 
ticket-sellers.  It  looks,  at  first,  as  if  a large  part  of  the 
poor  population  gained  their  livelihood  by  this  means — 
a non-productive  occupation  which  calls  to  mind  the 
community  spoken  of  by  Dr  Johnson  which  “ lived  by 
taking  in  each  other’s  washing  ” ! for  the  buying  and 
selling  of  lottery  tickets  hardly  seems  conducive  to 
any  measure  of  production  or  wealth.  At  every  step 
tickets  are  offered  you,  not  only  by  the  wastrels  of  the 
population,  or  the  old  and  decrepit,  but  by  able-bodied 
people,  and  scores  of  young  children.  They  infest  the 
streets,  hotel  entrances,  shops,  and  offices,  and  thrust 
their  flimsy  wares  into  your  face  as  you  pass  along, 
with  their  eternal  cry  of,  “ Hoy  sale  la  suerte!”  (“  The  lottery 
is  drawn  to-day  ”) ; or,  “ Para  la  tarde  diez  mil  ” (“  Ten 
thousand  pounds  this  afternoon”),  and  so  forth.  What 


324 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


miserable  commission  they  gain  upon  their  sales  I do 
not  know,  or  how  they  live  or  clothe  themselves.  Poorly, 
judging  by  the  appearance,  for,  as  to  the  old  men  and 
women  sellers,  they  seem  to  be  those  flotsam  and  jetsam 
which  the  tide  of  life  has  cast,  useless  for  aught  else,  upon 
this  final  “ beach  ” of  occupation.  Of  this  nature  was 
an  individual  who  almost  daily  pestered  me  to  purchase 
tickets  as  I left  my  hotel.  I even  found  him  at  times  at 
the  entrance  of  the  club,  waylaying  me  with  a persistence 
worthy  of  a better  occupation.  “ Do  but  buy  a ticket, 
and  your  fortune  is  made,”  he  implored  ; and  really  he 
seemed  more  animated  by  the  desire  to  make  my 
fortune  than  of  selling  his  tickets.  One  day  I became 
impatient.  “ Do  not  trouble  me  any  more,”  I said,  “ or  I 
will  hand  you  over  to  the  police;  I never  buy  lottery 
tickets.”  The  poor  fellow  stopped  abruptly,  as  if  hurt. 
He  was  probably  a little  dazed  mentally,  and  I examined 
him  by  the  light  of  the  electric  arc  which  swung  above. 
An  old  frock-coat,  tightly  buttoned  about  a shirtless 
body,  and  ancient  boots  upon  sockless  feet,  as  evidenced 
by  the  suspicion  of  human  leather  protruding  from  gaping 
holes  therein.  An  old  man,  unshaven  and  hungry-eyed, 
yet  with  a certain  air  of  reserve  or  pride  about  him — a 
type  of  most  pathetic  poverty.  He  told  me  his  story. 
He  had  been  a Government  employe  during  a past 
regime — a Prefect,  or  Sub-Prefect,  quite  an  important 
position — but  a change  of  party  had  deprived  him  of 
his  post ; an  ungrateful  Government  refused  him  other 
employment,  and  he  had  drifted  to  indigence  and  the 
selling  of  lottery  tickets.  I had  taken  him  to  a restaurant 
on  a side  street  to  appease  the  hunger  which  he  said 
devoured  him,  and  learnt  that  his  only  remaining  desire 
in  life  was  to  present  a certain  petition  to  the  Govern- 
ment about  some  matter.  “ But,”  said  the  poor  old 
fellow,  “ I cannot  enter  the  palace,  for  the  sentinels  at 
the  entrance  would  not  let  me  pass  in  these  clothes.” 
It  was  certainly  pathetic.  Here  was  this  man,  who 
had  commanded  soldiers  and  policemen  formerly,  who 
had  been  “ one  in  authority,”  and  at  whose  word  of  “ Do 


Lima 


325 


this”  it  had  been  done,  now  unable  to  obtain  audience. 
I gave  him  an  old  shirt,  a collar,  and  a black  coat  and 
hat  which  I no  longer  used,  and  promised  to  meet  him 
on  the  morrow  to  conduct  him  past  the  gendarmes  at 
the  palace  entrance.  So  it  befell.  I hardly  knew  in 
the  old  ex-Prefect  the  wretched  lottery  ticket-seller  of 
yesterday.  His  figure  was  upright,  he  had  been  shaved 
with  the  few  coins  I had  given  him,  and  was  now  as 
dignified  as  in  prefectural  days  when  he  had  haughtily 
ordered  his  inferiors,  in  some  interior  city.  The  entrance 
to  the  palace  is,  of  course,  free  to  the  public,  but  in 
any  case  there  would  now  be  no  need  of  my  accom- 
panying him,  for  he  strode  towards  the  entrance  with 
commanding  mien,  and — could  the  poor  fellow’s  cup  of 
happiness  be  fuller?  — the  soldiers  on  guard  at  the 
portal  actually  saluted  as  we  passed ! Moreover,  the 
confidence  in  himself  which  he  regained  from  this  bore 
him  on  to  the  interview  he  desired  ; and,  as  he  after- 
wards informed  me,  he  positively  obtained  a small  post 
in  a Custom  House,  which  would  keep  him  in  comfort 
— a post  too  insignificant,  fortunately,  to  be  marked  as 
the  prey  of  any  more  influential  political  adherent  of 
the  governing  power.  Truly  the  way  of  the  discarded 
politician  is  hard,  in  the  free  countries  of  the  Americas, 
from  Tammany  to  Peru! 

I have  before  described  the  characteristics  of  the 
Peruvians.  They,  like  all  of  the  Spanish  race,  are  ex- 
ceedingly eloquent ; they  have  great  facility  of  expression 
and  gesture,  and  a remarkable  flow  of  words.  When  a 
speech  is  made,  whether  it  be  at  a banquet,  a political 
meeting,  or  a funeral,  the  orator  performs  such  an  oration 
as,  translated  into  English,  could  only  be  described  as 
“ magnificent.”  Such  a flow  of  words,  however,  is  foreign  to 
Anglo-Saxon  customs  and  ideas,  for  both  our  words  and 
ideas  are  more  brusque,  succinct,  and  to  the  point  than  the 
Spanish. 

I have  attended  meetings  on  quite  ordinary  occa- 
sions, when  the  speakers  have  gone  far  back  into  remote 
classical  history  for  similes  to  illustrate  their  argument  or 


32(5 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


speech.  They  do  not  seem  satisfied  unless  they  have 
invoked  old  philosophies  and  ancient  truths  to  support  their 
contentions;  and  the  flattery  or  adulation  of  a friend  or 
colleague,  or  the  denunciation  of  an  enemy  or  opponent, 
are  correspondingly  exaggerated.  A successful  general  or 
statesman  is  nothing  less  than  a Caesar,  whilst  a political 
adversary  is  dyed  with  all  the  wickedness  of  the  human 
race!  In  Spanish  a gentleman  is  always  “a  perfect  gentle- 
man ” ; knowledge  is  always  “ profound  knowledge,”  and  so 
forth.  But  I will  give  some  illustrations  of  this  eloquence, 
so  that  I may  not  seem  to  be  unkind  in  this  criticism.  Here 
is  part  of  a speech  which  I will  translate  from  the  Comercio , 
one  of  the  leading  papers  of  Lima,  on  the  occasion  of  a 
funeral : 

“ Gentlemen ! A most  dolorous  duty  causes  us  to 
congregate  around  this  frozen  trench,  too  early  opened  to 
receive  the  mortal  remains  of  an  unfortunate  companion, 
whose  existence,  although  it  has  been  short,  passed  with 
meteoric  luminosity,  leaving  an  illustrious  and  translucent 
after-glow.  . . . Even  as  the  varied  and  beautiful  lines  of 
the  spectrum  through  a converging  lens  are  transformed 
into  a faggot  of  white  light,  resplendent,  so  the  details 
which  in  his  work  he  compiled,  united,  and  synthesised, 
emerged  afterwards  from  his  brain  in  the  beautiful  pro- 
duction whose  merit  is  sufficient  to  place  his  sarcophagus 
in  the  temple  of  immortality.  ...  If  the  disassociation  of 
the  matter  which  constitutes  this  scheme  of  the  human 
body  carries  not  with  it  the  destruction  of  personality ; if 
an  immortal  spirit  survives,  transmigrating  or  ascending  in 
infinite  spirals  to  the  bosom  of  the  Creator,  then  thy  death 
is  not  death  but  transformation,  a mere  change  of  existence 
itself!  The  chrysalis,  it  is  true,  has  broken  its  envelope, 
and  the  mysterious  butterfly — the  adorable  psychic  entity, 
has  flown  to  happier  regions,  to  merge  itself  into  the  Prime 
cause.  The  spirit,  spreading  like  the  undulations  of  the 
ocean,  or  engrossing  some  hierarchical  choir  in  the  serene 
region  of  souls  ”... 

and  so  forth : words  of  excellent  meaning  if  embodied  as 
an  essay,  but  hardly  in  place  before  a mixed  multitude 
at  an  ordinary  funeral. 

Here  is  another,  relating  to  a marriage,  which  I cut 
from  the  Prensa , a leading  paper  of  Lima,  and  which  is  one 

of  a common  form  of  such  insertions. 


Lima 


327 


“ Nuptials.  The  virtuous  and  angelical  Senorita  Fulana 
has  united  herself  for  ever  with  the  perfect  gentleman  Senor 
Sutano.  In  view  of  the  characteristics  of  so  sympathetic  a 
couple  there  must  ever  shine  upon  their  hearth  the  star  of 
felicity,  perfumed  by  the  delicious  ambient  of  the  pure  and 
virgin  love  which  dwells  in  the  innocent  heart  of  the 
spiritual  spouse.  May  the  sun  of  happiness  radiate  always 
in  the  blue  heaven  of  this  marriage,  is  the  vehement  desire 
of  those  who,  full  of  rejoicing  with  this  felicity,  sign  them- 
selves— their  friends.” 

These  marriage  notices  are,  really,  in  most  cases, 
inserted  by  the  interested  parties  themselves ! 

And  here  is  part  of  an  oration  composed  and  read  by 
one  of  the  prisoners  in  the  Penitentiary,  on  the  occasion 
of  a visit  of  the  President  of  the  Republic  to  that 
institution : 

“ Extend,  most  excellent  Sir,  your  most  worthy 
attention,  and  you,  venerable  representatives  and  honour- 
able magistrates,  and  all  the  justice  that  surrounds  you. 
Now  that  the  hour  has  arrived  for  your  Excellency  to 
visit  this  lugubrious  penal  establishment,  I will  give 
expansion  to  my  troubled  spirit,  to  expose  the  justice  of 
my  plaint,  to  your  Excellency,  who  comes  as  a synonym 
of  goodness,  who  comes  as  a redeemer  to  redeem  the 
worthy,  who  comes  as  an  apostle  of  humanity  to  console 
unfortunate  beings  such  as  I.  ...  I am  a victim  of 
calumny,  and  therefore  my  pure  conscience  gives  me 
valour  to  present  my  plaint  before  you.  I would  I had 
the  eloquence  of  Esculapius,  to  address  you  in  learned 
phrases.  . . . Give  your  benevolent  acceptation  of  the 
fruits  of  my  poor  inspiration.  ...  It  would  seem  that 
Phoebus  has  kindled  the  Aureola  of  his  torch  to  send  here 
more  brilliant  discs  this  day,  but  alas  ! it  is  not  continuous ; 
a dark  and  desolate  mantle  will  cover  this  sepulchre  of 
vicissitude  ...”  and  so  forth. 

It  is  far  from  my  intention  to  hold  up  to  ridicule  this 
characteristic  of  verbosity.  I only  cite  it  as  a psycho- 
logical quality  of  the  race,  for  it  is  innate;  the  poorest 
and  least  educated  among  them  strives  for  oratorial  effect, 
as  well  as  the  educated  and  the  scientific  ; and  as  I have 
remarked  elsewhere,  this  idealist  quality  may  contain  some 
valuable  attribute  which  in  later  development  shall  stand 


328 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


them  in  good  stead.  At  a time  when  some  branches  of 
the  Anglo-Saxon  race  seem  to  degenerate  into  acquiring 
mere  money-gaining,  trust-forming,  and  usurious  customs, 
it  is  not  wise  to  despise  anything  in  other  races  of  an 
opposite  nature. 

The  Spanish  language,  also,  it  is  to  be  recollected,  is 
very  different  from  the  English,  in  that  the  short,  succinct 
terms  we  use,  from  the  Saxon,  have  their  equivalent 
in  Spanish,  in  long  and  high-sounding  words  ; and  the 
language  of  even  the  poorest  classes  in  Spanish  America, 
when  translated  into  English,  is  of  a calibre  such  as  would 
only  be  employed  by  an  upper  class  in  England  or  the 
United  States. 

Another  trait  of  the  Spanish-American,  which  to 
Anglo-Saxon  eyes  approaches  somewhat  the  borderland 
of  pathos  (or  bathos),  dwells  in  the  striving  for  the 
expression  of  great  ideas  regarding  liberty,  equality,  and 
the  like — grandiloquent  theories  which  they  are  unable  to 
consummate.  Here,  for  example,  is  the  title  and  heading 
of  a provincial  newspaper  in  Peru  : 

“LA  RAZON  (REASON) 

LIBERTY,  FRATERNITY,  EQUALITY,  MORALS, 
WORK,  PROGRESS!” 

The  small  and  obscure  sheet  bearing  this  title  would 
probably  contain,  as  principal  news,  the  publication  of 
some  Government  edict ; an  account  of  some  barbarities 
committed  by  the  petty  authorities  upon  the  Indians,  or 
the  doings  of  the  most  aristocratic  family  of  the  place. 

The  city  of  Lima  enjoys  a good  climate,  as  I have 
stated,  has  many  points  of  attraction,  and  is  eminently 
cosmopolitan.  In  Peru,  notwithstanding  its  small  popula- 
tion, the  number  of  foreigners  to  be  encountered  is  con- 
siderable. Italians  predominate,  followed  more  or  less  in 
their  order  of  numbers  by  Austrians,  French,  Germans, 
Chinamen,  British,  and  Americans. 

The  Chinamen  are  principally  the  remnants  and 
descendants  of  those  who  were  brought  into  the  country 


Lima 


329 


years  ago  to  work  the  sugar-cane  plantations.  It  is  very 
doubtful  whether  the  Mongolian  is  a desirable  citizen, 
for  physically  he  tends  towards  deterioration.  He  is 
of  generally  weak  frame,  and  his  features  are  certainly 
not  stamped  with  intellectuality.  The  native  Peruvian 
generally  despises  him,  and  he  is  described  as  raquitico 
and  degenerative.  It  is  also  very  doubtful  if  his  progeny 
survives,  for,  although  he  may  have  one,  or  several  female 
companions  of  the  Chola  class,  who  bear  children  freely, 
these  latter  do  not  appear  to  live  to  attain  a ripe  age. 
The  Chinaman  is  generally  a small  shopkeeper,  or  keeps 
a small  laundry,  and  at  times  maintains  fondas  and 
small  “ hotels  ” in  the  interior  towns.  He  is  not  without 
useful  qualities,  and  enterprising  to  a certain  extent,  and 
soon  acquires  the  language  of  the  country.  Indeed,  in 
some  small  towns  the  business  of  shopkeeping  is  almost 
monopolised  by  Chinamen,  for  they  appear  to  work  towards 
some  mutual  method,  helping  newcomers  of  their  own 
race  to  establish  themselves.  But  there  is  no  doubt  that 
they  largely  falsify  and  adulterate  the  goods  they  sell, 
whenever  such  is  possible.  The  Chinaman,  moreover,  is 
full  of  abominable  vices,  and  the  country  would  be  better 
without  him. 

The  British  element  in  Lima  is  confined  principally  to 
several  large  commercial  houses,  branches  of  main  London 
establishments,  and  their  chiefs  and  employees.  There  is 
no  large  British  Colony,  as  in  Iquique,  for  example ; and 
with  the  exception  of  a little  desultory  mining  here  and 
there,  British  capital  has  not  yet  awakened  to  the  possi- 
bilities of  Peru  as  a field  for  investment.  The  railways 
of  the  country  are  worked  and  controlled  by  a British 
Corporation,  and  I have  spoken  of  this  elsewhere.  But  if 
there  are  not  a great  many  English  people  in  Lima,  the 
British  name  and  reputation  for  fair  dealing  is  respected. 

The  adjoining  Republics  of  Bolivia  and  Ecuador  are 
included  in  the  same  British  diplomatic  representation  as 
Peru.  Relations  with  Bolivia  have  only  recently  been 
renewed — about  two  years  ago— for  these  were  summarily 
cut  off,  it  will  be  remembered,  many  years  since,  due 


330 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


to  an  incident  which  took  place  in  that  country.  The 
following  relation  of  this  incident  is  given  as  I have 
heard  it ; I do  not  vouch  for  the  accuracy  of  its  details. 

The  British  Minister  in  Sucre — the  capital  of  Bolivia 
— was  on  a certain  occasion  invited,  with  his  wife  and 
daughters,  to  dine  by  the  then  President  of  the  country. 
The  President  was  unmarried,  but  lived  with  his  mistress, 
and  due  to  this  fact  the  Minister  attended  the  banquet 
alone,  not  bringing  the  ladies  of  his  family.  Much 
offended  at  this  procedure,  the  President  made  it  a 
cause  of  quarrel ; violent  hands  were  laid  on  Her 
Majesty’s  representative,  who  was  subjected  to  indignities 
— tied  on  a donkey  with  his  face  to  the  tail,  and  in  that 
fashion  escorted  out  of  the  city.  When  Lord  Palmerston 
— the  then  Minister  for  Foreign  Affairs  — heard  of  this 
outrage,  his  anger  was  intense.  “ Bolivia ! ” he  said. 
“Where  is  Bolivia?”  And,  turning  to  his  secretary,  added: 
“ Bring  me  a map.  We  will  bombard  their  capital  if 
instant  reparation  is  not  made ! ” The  map  being  duly 
brought,  he  scanned  the — to  him — unknown  continent  of 
South  America,  and  at  length  discovered  that  Bolivia 
was  on  the  western  side  thereof.  But  here  was  a dilemma. 
A British  cruiser  could  hardly  reach  the  capital,  for  the 
simple  reason  that  it  was  on  the  other  side  of  the  Andes, 
a good  many  thousand  feet  above  the  elevation  of  the 
sea,  and  hundreds  of  miles  inland.  “ Well,”  said  the 
statesman,  “ we  cannot  send  a cruiser — bring  me  a pen 
and  ink  ! ” And  taking  the  pen,  he  drew  it  across  Bolivia, 
crossing  it  off  the  map.  “ Bolivia  no  longer  exists,”  he 
said ; and  from  that  time  until  about  two  years  ago 
when  the  present  British  Minister  in  Lima  re-established 
relations,  diplomatic  intercourse  between  the  two  countries 
had  ceased.  But  there  was  a sequel  to  the  crossing-off 
of  Bolivia.  As  soon  as  the  doughty  President  of  that 
country  heard  of  what  had  been  done,  he  also  called 
his  secretary.  “ Bring  me  a map,”  he  cried.  “ Where  is 
Great  Britain?”  And  having  found  it,  he  emptied  the 
contents  of  his  ink-pot  over  it.  “ Great  Britain  no  longer 
exists  ! ” he  exclaimed. 


CHAPTER  XXXIII 


PIRATES  AND  BUCCANEERS;  EARTHQUAKES  AND 
TIDAL  WAVES 

Callao  was  ever,  in  its  earlier  history,  a favourite  point 
for  the  operations  of  old  - time  buccaneers.  From  the 
moment  when  the  theories  and  aspirations  of  Columbus 
crystallised  to  action,  and  Isabella  of  Spain  pledged  her 
jewels  to  give  him  funds,  that  vast  continent  oi  South 
America,  and  especially  the  West  Coast,  was  deemed  by 
the  Spaniards  their  property.  But  it  was  also  deemed 
by  British  adventurers  a fair  field  for  their  exploits. 
According  to  the  Spaniards,  those  who  set  forth  from 
England’s  shores  towards  the  Pacific  were  “ pirates  and 
buccaneers  ” — or,  at  least,  that  is  the  name  by  which  they 
are  generally  described  by  Spanish  chroniclers.  The  most 
famous  of  British  adventurers  in  those  regions  was  Drake, 
and  Drake  truly  was  a thorn  in  the  flesh  for  the  Spaniards 
of  those  days.  Zapata,  the  Peruvian  writer,  from  whom 
I have  elsewhere  quoted,  gives  a long  list  of  “ pirates, 
buccaneers,  corsairs,  and  filibusters,”  as  he  terms  them, 
principally  British.  Of  Drake  he  says : 

“In  1567,  Francisco  Drake,  a native  of  the  County  of 
Devon,  England,  or  as  others  have  it,  born  on  board  a 
ship,  was  the  first  pirate  who  infested  the  coast  of  South 
America,  commanding  the  Dragon , which  was  a ship  of 
his  squadron.  Drake  again,  in  1 577,  equipped  a squadron 
of  five  ships  in  Plymouth,  whence  he  set  forth  on  15th 
November,  pretending  that  his  destination  was  Alexandria; 
but,  turning  again  to  the  Southern  Seas,  he  entered  them 
by  the  Straits  of  Magellanes.  He  searched  the  coasts  of 
Chile,  and  near  Valdivia  captured  a ship  with  200,000  gold 
dollars.  Without  it  being  known  he  arrived  at  Callao,  and 
of  twelve  ships  in  the  bay  he  captured  one  laden  with 

33i 


332 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


silver,  and  cut  the  cables  of  the  others.  From  here,  con- 
tinuing his  hostilities  at  Cape  San  Francisco,  he  captured 
a vessel  with  13  boxes  of  silver  and  80  pounds  of  gold. 
With  these  spoils  he  sailed  as  far  north  as  80  degrees, 
when  he  went  to  Java.  Afterwards,  doubling  the  Cape 
of  Good  Hope,  he  returned  to  England,  and  presented 
Queen  Elizabeth  with  800,000  dollars ; having  laughed 
at  the  eleven  Spanish  ships  of  war,  which,  to  restrain 
these  insults,  had  been  equipped  in  1580  by  Don  Francisco 
de  Toledo,  with  instructions  to  wait  the  pirate  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Straits.  In  1595  Drake  fitted  out  another 
expedition  in  England,  by  order  or  patronage  of  Queen 
Elizabeth,  of  28  ships.  With  these  he  returned  to  the 
West  Coast,  carrying  out  in  all  their  ports  indefensible 
cruelties  which  exceed  humanity.  He  invaded  the  city 
of  Rio  de  la  Hacha.  With  this  invasion  and  that  which 
was  made  by  the  pirates — Bartolome,  a Portuguese  ; Rec, 
a Brazilian  ; Francisco  Lelonois  and  John  Morgan — the 
famous  fisheries  of  the  finest  pearls  of  our  America  were 
destroyed.  From  here  Drake  went  to  Portobello,  with 
the  same  design  that  he  had  formerly  had,  but  without 
disembarking  he  died  suddenly,  whilst  anchored  in  view 
of  the  plaza'.' 

Zapata  hardly  does  Drake  justice,  but  it  is  not  to  be 
expected  that  Spanish  or  South  American  chroniclers 
would  do  so.  He  harried  their  shores  continually,  and 
certainly  took  away  large  quantities  of  gold  and  silver  by 
means  of  his  great  audacity  and  bravery.  “Impossible,” 
said  the  Viceroy  of  Lima,  Don  Francisco  de  Toledo,  when 
he  heard  of  the  advent  of  Drake  in  Callao,  “impossible 
that  there  could  be  a heretic  pirate  in  the  Pacific  ” — that 
ocean  where  until  then  no  English  keel  had  ever  violated 
the  waters.  Was  not  this  the  sacred  region  of  his  most 
Catholic  Majesty  of  Spain ! But  it  was  too  true.  It 
was  the  keel  of  the  daring  British  Admiral,  and,  having 
got  wind  of  a Spanish  barque,  laden  with  gold  and  silver, 
which  had  just  left  for  Panama,  he  cut  the  cables  of  twelve 
vessels  in  Callao  to  prevent  pursuit,  and  sailed  forth  to 
overtake  the  treasure,  setting  every  stitch  of  canvas  on 
board  the  swift  Golden  Hind — its  prow  to  Panama. 
Imagine  them  bowling  along,  good  reader,  over  those  blue 
and  placid  seas,  the  faint  Andes  against  the  Eastern  sky, 


Pirates  and  Buccaneers 


333 


and  the  illimitable  Pacific  on  the  port  side.  Admiral  and 
men  strain  every  effort,  and  trim  their  sheets  as  only 
British  seamen  could.  But  the  wind  drops.  Are  they 
discouraged  ? Out  go  the  boats,  and  for  three  days 
they  towed  the  vessel,  until  off  Cape  Francisco  they  spied 
the  fleeing  plate-ship,  laden  with  treasure.  Like  hawks 
they  must  have  descended  upon  it,  and,  according  to  the 
Spanish  chronicles,  they  “ bagged  ” some  ^900,000. 

From  where  did  these  great  shipments  and  quantities 
of  gold  come  ? I have  endeavoured  to  answer  this 
question  in  other  chapters.  They  came  from  the  vast 
placer  and  other  mines  of  the  interior  of  Peru,  which, 
only  half  - worked,  are  still  — as  I have  said  elsewhere 
— awaiting  the  enterprise  of  modern  miners.  I have 
sojourned  long  in  those  far-off  regions, 

“ Where  rivers  wander  o’er  sands  of  gold.” 

There  on  the  classic  Maranon,  or  in  the  mines  of  Sandia 
or  of  Cuzco,  the  midday  siesta  conjures  up  to  the 
imagination  the  figures  of  toiling  Indians  under  the  lash, 
their  task-masters  ; the  helmeted  soldiers,  the  cassocked 
priests  ; the  pack-mules  with  their  packets  of  golden  dust, 
dug  from  the  Andean  valleys.  Away  they  went  across 
the  bleak  puna — the  desolate  steppes  of  the  Cordillera, 
past  the  regions  of  eternal  snow — “ antres  vast  and  deserts 
idle  ” — down  to  the  burning  plains  of  the  coast,  and  thence 
on  board  the  ships  for  Spain,  to  run,  perchance,  the 
gauntlet  of  Plymouth  “ pirates.”  The  yellow  metal  so 
hardly  won,  too  often  with  blood  and  cruelty,  fell  some- 
times into  the  hands  of  Drake  of  Tavistock  or  others  ; 
and  my  thoughts  rebound  from  those  ancient  mines,  and 
scenes,  and  ponderings,  to  far-off  Devon,  with  its  green 
hills  and  restful  vales,  welcoming  the  wanderer  again ! 

“ Let  us  alone.  What  pleasure  can  we  have  . . . 

In  always  climbing  up  the  climbing  wave? 

All  things  have  rest,  and  ripen  towards  the  grave. 

Give  us  long  rest,  or  death,  or  dreamful  ease  ! ” 

But,  fortunately,  the  voice  of  Nature  has  no  such  teaching 
as  this — at  any  rate  for  the  Anglo-Saxon  mind  ; and  I 
arise  from  my  siesta  to  see  what  my  Indians  are  doing, 


334  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

and  if  they  have  performed  their  task.  Pardon,  there- 
fore, this  digression,  good  reader. 

Drake,  after  that  exploit,  found  the  place  too  hot  for 
him,  and,  hearing  about  the  Spanish  ships  that  were 
waiting  to  receive  him  at  Magellanes,  tried  to  return  to 
England  by  the  supposed  north-west  passage.  He  went 
north  as  far  as  Oregon — Drake’s  bay  still  bears  its  name  on 
those  shores — much  beyond  San  Francisco  in  California. 
But,  seeing  that  he  was  getting  very  far  north  and 
approaching  a very  cold  climate,  he  changed  his  course, 
and  returned  to  Plymouth  by  the  Indian  Ocean  and  the 
Cape,  having  gone  completely  round  the  world.  It  is  a 
remarkable  thing  that  the  splendid  great  bay  of  San 
Francisco  was  not  earlier  visited  or  discovered,  but,  as 
all  travellers  who  have  seen  it  can  understand,  the 
narrow,  foggy  entrance  of  the  “ Golden  Gate,”  as  it  is 
termed  by  the  Californians,  might  easily  be  passed 
without  seeing  it. 

From  1678  onwards,  a large  number  of  adventurers 
are  described  by  Zapata,  as  “ pirates,  filibusters,  bandits, 
corsairs,  and  buccaneers” — the  greater  part  of  British 
nationality — and  many  others  Dutch  and  French,  who 
visited  those  regions  with  various  objects.  Many  of 
them  deserved  the  titles  bestowed  upon  them,  for  their 
object  was  to  sack  and  destroy  coast  towns,  and  obtain 
booty  of  gold  and  other  treasure.  Some  of  them, 
however,  went  on  more  peaceful  errands,  and  even  those 
whose  errand  was  the  useful  one  of  charting  the  coast 
seem  to  have  shared  the  same  fate  as  those  whose 
purpose  was  robbery.  Some  of  the  bolder  spirits 
entered  the  Pacific  Ocean  by  crossing  the  Isthmus  of 
Panama  and  stealing  or  constructing  vessels  in  that 
port,  but  the  greater  number  either  went  round  Cape 
Horn  or  through  the  Straits  of  Magellan.  Some  of 
these  made  for  the  island  of  Juan  Fernandez  — the 
abode  of  “Robinson  Crusoe”  — which  seems  to  have 
been  a sort  of  resting-place  before  descending  upon  the 
coast  towns  of  what  are  now  Chile,  Peru,  Ecuador,  and 
Colombia.  A large  number  of  them  were  undoubtedly 


Pirates  and  Buccaneers  835 

repulsed  or  destroyed  by  the  Spanish  authorities  of 
these  towns,  or  by  the  Spanish  fleets ; but  the  greater 
part  seem  to  have  obtained  good  booty  and  returned 
to  England,  either  running  the  guantlet  of  the  Spanish 
ships  awaiting  them  at  Cape  Horn,  or  the  Straits,  or 
going  westwardly  and  round  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope 
for  Albion’s  shores  again. 

From  the  day  when  in  1520  Fernando  de  Magallanes, 
a Portuguese,  discovered  the  Straits  which  bear  his  name 
(and  for  which  his  pilot,  Sebastian  del  Cano,  a Spaniard, 
was  given  the  arms  of  a ship  upon  a globe  with  the 
motto,  “Tu  solus  circumdedisti  me”)  until  1744,  Zapata 
describes  the  adventures  of  more  than  fifty  “ pirates  ” 
and  expeditions  (including  the  names  of  Morgan, 
Hawkins,  and  others),  the  greater  part  of  which  were 
British,  and  whose  exploits  have  often  been  described. 
Many  of  these  were  fitted  out  at  Plymouth,  and  Devon- 
shire furnished  many  of  the  brave  fellows  of  their  crews, 
and  many  of  these  never  returned  to  beautiful  Devon 
from  those  interminable  seas  and  sterile  shores  of  the 
Pacific.  Spanish  bullets,  ambuscades,  fevers,  shipwrecks, 
scurvy,  fatigue,  and  other  kindred  attendants  of  that 
historical  epoch  accounted  for  many  of  them.  Devon 
paid  a considerable  toll  in  Spanish  America,  but  the 
names  of  her  children  are  not  forgotten,  for,  below  the 
epithets  of  buccaneer  and  pirate,  are  also  those  qualities 
of  manhood,  adventure,  and  bravery  which  are  the 
foundation  of  the  British  character,  and  which  have 
carried  the  British  name  and  flag  to  all  quarters  of  the 
globe.  All  honour  to  the  brave  men  of  Spain  who 
defended  the  lands  they  had  discovered  and  the  riches 
they  had  acquired,  and  all  honour  to  the  brave  spirits 
of  Britain  who  disputed  — far  from  their  homes  — the 
possession  of  these ! Their  strivings  and  warrings  are 
over — they  were  the  class  which  generates  progress  and 
which  advanced  the  march  of  civilisation. 

I recollect,  early  in  the  year  1906,  whilst  homewards 
bound— I was  going  over  the  wonderful  defences  and 
fortress  walls  of  Cartagena  in  Colombia : walls  metres 


336 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


in  thickness  and  miles  in  length,  which  defend  the  city 
from  the  sea — a Spanish  companion  said  to  me : “ These 
were  made  against  your  countrymen,  in  the  days  when 
the  outlying  portions  of  the  Spanish  Empire  were  as 
much  a part  of  that  Empire  as  the  colonies  of  Britain 
are  to  her  in  these  years  of  God ! . . 

Callao,  like  other  coast  places  of  South  America  on 
the  Pacific,  has  suffered  terribly  from  earthquakes  and 
tidal  waves  during  its  past  history.  The  Pacific  Coast, 
both  of  North  and  South  America,  is  especially  subject 
to  these  phenomena,  as  witness  the  recent  terrible  occur- 
rences in  San  Francisco,  Mexico,  and  Valparaiso,  the 
former  and  latter  places  something  like  6,000  miles 
apart.  One  of  the  most  disastrous  earth  movements 
and  tidal  waves  which  have  visited  Callao  was  that  of 
the  28th  and  29th  October,  1746. 

Various  descriptions  of  this  event  have  been  written, 
but  it  will  be  interesting  to  describe  it  here,  and  I will 
translate  from  the  periodical  El  Callao  of  that  city,  from 
an  account  published  on  28th  October,  1905,  the  anni- 
versary of  the  catastrophe.  It  says: 

“ It  was  in  Lima,  on  the  night  of  the  28th  of  October, 
1746.  The  greater  part  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  city 
had  retired,  or  were  just  retiring  after  coming  from 
church,  where  they  had  celebrated  the  feasts  of  Saint 
Simon  and  Saint  Judas.  Only  the  richest  persons,  of 
noble  lineage  or  title,  were  exchanging  visits  at  that 
hour,  accompanied  by  their  escorts  of  slaves  and 
attendants.  The  moon  shone  radiantly  from  a clear 
sky.  The  clocks  in  the  church  towers  had  struck  half- 
past ten,  when  a sudden  and  violent  shaking  of  the 
earth  threw  many  people  out  of  their  bed,  amid  the 
most  frightful  confusion.  Three  minutes  this  violent 
shock  lasted,  and  during  this  brief  time  Lima  was 
reduced  to  ruins,  a large  number  of  its  inhabitants 
being  buried  among  the  debris. 

“ In  the  imagination  of  that  credulous  people  this 
cataclysm  was  the  day  of  judgment:  that  final  day  which 
the  Catholic  religion  expects  as  a last  earthly  tribunal, 
separating  the  good  from  the  bad.  In  the  time  it  takes 
to  relate  it  the  whole  work  and  construction  of  21 1 
years  was  destroyed.  In  a city  which  contained  60,000 


Earthquakes  and  Tidal  Waves  337 

inhabitants  not  more  than  25  houses  remained  standing; 
and,  moreover,  the  great  shock  was  followed  by  others — 
as  many  as  200  being  counted  within  the  subsequent 
twenty-four  hours.  The  Jesuit  priest,  Pedro  Lozano, 
witness  and  survivor  of  the  catastrophe,  narrated,  a few 
days  after  the  event,  the  following  account : 

“‘Of  the  two  towers  of  the  Cathedral  one  fell  on  to 
the  domed  roof,  and  the  other  to  the  belfry,  destroying 
the  greater  part  of  the  edifice,  which  will  have  to  be 
demolished.  Almost  similar  has  been  the  destruction  in 
the  five  magnificent  churches  of  the  city,  as  well  as  in 
64  lesser  temples,  chapels,  and  monasteries.  The  fall  of 
the  large  buildings  consummated  the  ruin  of  the  smaller, 
and  filled  the  streets  with  wreckage  and  fragments.  In 
their  excessive  terror  the  inhabitants  strove  to  flee,  but 
some  were  buried  beneath  the  ruins  of  their  houses,  and 
others,  as  they  fled  along  the  streets,  were  crushed  by 
the  falling  walls  on  every  side.  The  triumphal  arch  with 
the  equestrian  statue  of  Philip  V.  fell,  and  was  broken  to 
pieces.  The  same  fate  befell  the  Viceroy’s  palace,  and 
the  Viceroy,  Don  Jose  Manso  do  Velasco,  showed  his  forti- 
tude and  wisdom,  and  took  what  measures  were  possible 
for  the  salvation  of  the  inhabitants.  The  Tribunal  of  the 
Inquisition  fell  to  the  ground,  as  also  the  Royal  University 
and  the  Colleges.  Everything,  in  short.’ 

“ The  people  slept  in  the  squares  and  gardens,  and 
monks  and  nuns  wandered  about  the  streets.  Of  the 
twenty-five  monks  of  the  monastery  of  Carmen  thirteen 
were  crushed  by  the  walls.  Strange  it  seems  that  that 
terrible  time  should  have  taken  place  when  Catholicism 
was  in  all  its  splendour,  and  the  faith  of  the  inhabitants  of 
Lima  in  its  zenith,  for  the  Holy  Office  of  the  Inquisition 
was  operating.  Yet  no  one  dared  to  approach  the  churches  ; 
on  the  contrary,  they  fled  from  them,  notwithstanding 
that  all  knew  that  these  are  the  houses  of  God.  Three 
days  passed,  during  which  260  shocks  were  felt,  and  the 
decomposition  of  dead  bodies  in  the  ruins  began  to 
produce  an  epidemic.  No  matter  where  it  might  be — 
streets  or  squares — trenches  were  opened  to  bury  the 
dead.  In  spite  of  this  the  terrible  putrefaction  continued, 
as  there  were  the  remains  of  more  than  3,000  mules  and 
horses  rotting  in  the  ruins,  as  well  as  other  animals. 
The  number  of  persons  killed  was  calculated  at  five  or 
six  thousand.” 

It  might  have  been  supposed  that  the  catastrophe 

Y 


338 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


was  now  at  an  end,  but  what  happened  on  the  30th  was 
full  of  terrible  sensation.  Whilst  the  inhabitants  were 
still  under  the  impressions  of  their  misfortunes,  seeking 
fathers,  mothers,  brothers,  or  other  loved  ones,  there  sud- 
denly appeared  in  the  streets  of  Lima  a negro  mounted 
on  horseback,  his  eyes  starting  from  their  sockets,  and 
shouting  in  accents  of  terror  : “ The  sea  is  coming ! The 

sea  is  coming ! ” 

“ This  new  alarm  gave  rise  to  the  most  extraordinary 
scenes.  Every  one  sought  to  flee,  and  crowds  hurried 
frantically  towards  the  San  Cristobal  hill,  climbing  ruins 
and  fallen  walls  in  their  flight ; and  terrible  it  was  to  see 
the  people,  anguished  and  terrified — sons  carrying  sick 
parents,  and  parents  their  children,  in  one  wild  rush  where 
none  looked  back  ! 

“ ‘ The  shocks  continued  all  day/  the  account  says, 

‘ accompanied  by  subterranean  noises,  and  the  unfortunate 
people  imagined  that  the  earth  was  about  to  open  and 
swallow  them.  Fear  and  excitement  alternated  with 
public  confessions,  preachings  by  the  priests,  and  general 
absolutions.  Thousands  of  persons  were  heard  confessing 
their  crimes  and  weaknesses,  so  that  God  might  pardon 
them  ; and  as  they  were  all  sinners,  none  lent  ear  to  the 
confessions  of  others,  being  too  much  occupied  in  recount- 
ing their  own  misdeeds.’  ” 

Famine  followed,  for  the  bread  shops  were  in  ruins, 
and  the  cargoes  of  wheat  on  board  the  ships  at  Callao 
had  been  submerged.  Curious  scenes  were  witnessed. 
A priest  went  about  the  city,  naked,  wounding  himself 
in  penitential  frenzy,  ashes  on  his  head,  and  the  bit  and 
bridle  of  a mule  in  his  mouth,  crying  : “ This  is  the  justice 
of  the  King  of  Heaven  upon  sinners  ! ” and  beating  himself 
with  an  iron  bar  until  the  blood  rushed  forth. 

“In  Callao  the  most  awful  catastrophe  occurred.  After 
the  shock  the  people  endeavoured  to  rush  away  from  the 
city,  but  the  city  gates  were  locked  at  that  hour.  Whilst 
the  inhabitants  w'ho  had  not  been  destroyed  by  the  falling 
walls  prayed  to  God  for  compassion,  they  noted  a terrible 
phenomenon.  The  sea  went  out  for  more  than  2 miles 
from  the  shore,  forming  immense  mountains  of  water  that 
appeared  to  reach  to  the  sky.  All  hope  was  lost.  The 
religious  and  the  irreligious  asked  pardon  for  their  sins, 


339 


Earthquakes  and  Tidal  Waves 

and  mercy  from  heaven.  There  was  no  mercy  shown 
them ! The  mountains  of  water  rushed  forward  with 
horrid  crash  as  if  the  whole  universe  were  advancing  to 
overwhelm  the  doomed  city : submerged  the  ships  in  the 
bay,  carrying  some  of  them  over  the  walls  and  towers 
that  had  resisted  the  earthquake,  and  covered  the  whole 
city.  . . . When  the  waters  retired  nought  remained 
of  Callao  but  the  two  great  doors  of  the  city  and  a piece 
of  the  wall ! . . . ” 

It  is  stated  that  the  wave  reached  for  3 miles  inland 
towards  Lima,  and  that  its  level  was  more  than  1 50  feet 
above  normal  sea-level.  This  I can  well  believe,  in  view  of 
the  masses  of  driftwood  which  still  remain  far  above  high 
tide  on  the  Peruvian  coast  further  south,  and  which  I have 
elsewhere  described,  in  the  account  of  my  journeys  there. 

Earthquakes  have  formed  a terrible  scourge  to  the 
South  American  coast,  ever  since  earliest  history,  and 
doubtless  since  the  formation  of  th*  Andes.  These 
phenomena  are  not  necessarily  due  to  the  action  of 
volcanoes,  but  to  movements  brought  about  by  the  release 
of  strain  in  the  strata  of  the  formation  of  the  land  and 
the  mountains,  there  can  be  no  doubt.  On  this  coast 
exist  vast  differences  of  level.  The  Andes  rise  to  great 
altitudes,  fronting  on  the  coast,  and  the  ocean  extends  to 
vast  depths  a short  distance  out  at  sea,  in  some  places 
there  being  no  anchorage  for  ships  quite  close  to  the 
land.  This  condition  of  height  and  depth  in  juxtaposition 
undoubtedly  affects  the  general  stability  of  the  region. 

I have  experienced  numerous  slight  earthquake  shocks, 
and  in  one  place  in  the  Andes  recorded  them  almost  daily 
for  a period  of  five  months  — earth  tremors,  varying  in 
intensity.  The  feeling  engendered  by  a serious  earthquake 
shock  is  curious  and  unpleasant.  It  is  not  necessarily  only 
the  fear  of  being  crushed  by  falling  walls  or  roof,  but  it 
seems  to  be  borne  upon  the  mind  for  a moment  that  there 
is  nothing  stable  in  the  universe,  and  that  the  world  has 
nothing  save  chance  to  ordain  its  march — soulless  chance, 
which  may  ruthlessly,  and  at  any  instant,  plunge  it  into 
chaos  ! The  finite  mind  of  poor  man,  accustomed  ever 
to  look  towards  some  unknown  yet  protecting  Power,  to 


340 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


catch  some  rays  of  hope  and  reassurance  in  his  mundial 
state,  seems  to  feel  this  protection  withdrawn,  or  non- 
existing, and  his  heart  is  seared  by  the  depths  of  a 
momentary  despair.  Probably  this  feeling  accounts  for 
the  remarkable  scenes  witnessed  during  severe  earth- 
quakes, especially  among  peoples  of  a superstitious  or 
ultra-religious  nature,  who  see  in  a natural  phenomenon 
the  displeasure  of  an  angry  God ! There  is,  also,  what 
might  be  termed  the  moral  effect  of  earthquakes,  which 
is  undoubtedly  strong. 

In  Caracas  some  time  ago,  after  a severe  shock, 
thousands  of  couples  who  had  been  living  together,  un- 
married, went  through  the  marriage  ceremony.  Somewhat 
similar  mention  was  made  regarding  the  San  Francisco 
and  Valparaiso  disasters.  I have  heard  of  “ conscience 
money  ” being  returned  after  an  earthquake  shock,  in 
South  American  cities  where  I have  been.  I recollect  on 
one  occasion  being  at  a meeting  of  the  Directors  of  a 
Company  in  one  of  these  cities.  Some  of  the  Directors 
were  of  the  “ bloated  capitalist  ” species  who  delight  to 
form  trusts,  and  one  in  particular — a man  with  a large 
belly,  and  consequently  rather  slow  of  movement — was 
endeavouring  to  have  something  agreed  to  which  was 
decidedly  reprehensible,  and  against  which  I had  pro- 
tested as  being  unfair  to  absent  parties.  We  were  in  the 
midst  of  this  discussion,  when  I felt  the  well-known  quiver 
of  a coming  earthquake  shock.  My  companions  felt  it 
too : it  was  the  day  after  the  news  of  the  San  Francisco 
devastation  had  arrived,  and  the  morning  papers  were  full 
of  the  occurrence.  A low,  rumbling,  subterranean  noise  was 
heard,  such  as  often  accompanies  the  phenomenon,  and 
the  windows  rattled  ominously.  The  stout  capitalist  and 
the  others  started  swiftly  for  the  door,  their  faces  blanching 
with  terror,  and  reached  the  patio  outside ; the  physically 
developed  one  having  been  much  impeded  by  his  stomach, 
which  prevented  his  quickly  getting  out  of  a rather  narrow 
doorway.  The  shock  was  of  short  duration  fortunately, 
and  my  companions  returned  to  find  me  sitting  in  my 
chair,  from  which  I had  not  risen.  It  is  useless  to  rush  for 


341 


Earthquakes  and  Tidal  Waves 

the  door  in  such  cases,  and  quite  as  dangerous.  “ The 
cold  - blooded  Englishman  remained  ! ” commented  my 
stout  fellow  - Director,  as  he  resumed  his  seat,  whilst 
another  said  something  about  the  weather,  as  if  he  had 
gone  outside  with  the  object  of  observing  it.  However,  to 
point  the  moral : on  resuming  our  discussion  it  was  seen 
that  the  method  of  procedure  before  advocated,  and  which 
I had  considered  unfair,  was  dropped.  “ Probably  another 
course  would  be  more  advantageous,”  they  averred. 

The  Geographical  Society  of  Lima  is  now  correlating 
shock  occurrences,  notices  of  which  are  sent  telegraphically 
to  that  body  in  Lima  from  all  places  in  the  interior  of 
Peru,  by  official  order.  An  account  of  these  phenomena 
since  earliest  times  has  been  recently  published  in  their 
Journal , and  among  the  earliest  spoken  of  is  that  of  the 
earthquake  of  the  13th  May,  1647,  in  Santiago,  Chile,  which 
caused  nearly  2,000  deaths.  On  the  31st  March,  1650,  the 
strongest  earthquake  shock  ever  known  in  the  city  of  Cuzco 
took  place.  It  is  stated  to  have  lasted  a quarter  of  an  hour, 
and  was 

“so  horrible  that,  in  this  short  time,  it  threw  down  all 
the  convents,  churches,  and  houses.  The  people  rushed 
about  breathlessly,  calling  on  heaven  for  pardon  and 
mercy,  beating  themselves  and  confessing  their  sins ; 
horror  and  fear  being  caused  even  in  the  hardest  hearts. 
Twenty-four  days  the  disturbance  lasted,  with  frequent 
shocks  day  and  night,  some  as  severe  as  the  first  one,  and 
as  many  as  500  were  counted  during  the  month.  The 
earthquake  spread  devastation  far  and  wide,  according  to 
this  account,  and  reached  as  far  south  as  Arequipa.  In 
the  Andes  surrounding  Cuzco  there  were  great  burstings 
of  volcanoes,  opening  the  earth  in  places,  swallowing  up 
roads  and  horsemen,  damming  up  the  rivers  with  mountains 
hurled  therein,  and  destroying  the  bridges  over  the 
Apurimac  river. 

“ So  furious  was  the  shock  that  the  Priest  of  Cucho,  on 
his  return  from  a confessional,  in  descending  a hill-slope 
formed  of  shale,  was  overtaken  by  the  top  of  the  mountain, 
which  descended  upon  him  ; and  his  clothes  having  been 
caught  by  a rock  he  remained  suspended  for  five  days  over 
an  abyss,  in  an  inaccessible  place  where  the  Indians  could 


342 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


not  possibly  succour  him.  Being  a virtuous  person,  and 
a man  of  letters,  he  took  profit  of  this  time  that  God  gave 
him,  and,  seeing  the  impossibility  of  escape,  passed  the 
days  in  prayer,  and  at  length  expired.” 

The  Cathedral  was  wrecked,  and  the  image  of  the 
Virgin  was  kept  dry  from  the  heavy  rains  under  a tent 
A marvellous  occurrence  also  took  place,  says  the 
account 

M An  image  of  the  Virgin,  painted  in  oils  upon  canvas, 
that  existed  near  the  choir  door  in  the  Church  of  San 
Francisco,  and  before  which  was  sung  daily,  after  vespers, 
Tota  pulchra  est%  was  broken  across  the  face.  A painter, 
going  some  days  afterwards  to  restore  it,  found  it  without 
sign  of  damage — the  canvas  better  than  before,  and  the 
eflfigy  so  beautiful  that  there  was  no  necessity  for  human 
hands  to  touch  it ! 

“On  the  31st  March,  1683,  an  Aurora  Borealis  ap- 
peared to  the  east  of  Lima,  sending  forth  columns  of  fire 
and  sparks,  that  lasted  as  long  as  an  Ave  Maria.  This 
meteor  caused  great  fear  among  the  people,  who  were  just 
leaving  the  procession  of  Our  Lord  of  the  Earthquakes. 
In  Cuzco,  on  the  2nd  of  August,  1700,  a sharp  earthquake 
shock  was  felt ; and  after  some  days  there  was  seen 
towards  the  west  a comet  of  a white  colour,  extending 
from  the  horizon  to  the  zenith,  and  which  lasted  for  fifteen 
days.  In  1707,  on  the  17th  December,  there  occurred 
a formidable  earthquake  that  lasted  the  space  of  an 
Ave  Maria.  The  dust  arising  from  the  ground  and  fallen 
edifices  was  such  that  the  place  remained  for  hours  in 
twilight  A house  was  moved  by  the  earthquake  from 
one  side  of  a river  to  another,  with  its  occupants.  Some 
Indians  who  had  taken  refuge  in  a chapel  near  the  small 
village  of  Chapi-chapi,  found  the  image  of  the  Virgin  at 
the  door  of  the  church,  without  it  having  been  moved  by 
any  one  from  its  niche.  The  Indians  informed  the  cura% 
who  ordered  the  image  to  be  taken  to  the  village  ; but  on 
raising  it,  there  fell  such  a tempest  of  hail  as  obliged  them 
to  change  their  intention,  and  when  the  image  was  restored 
to  its  niche,  the  storm  ceased.'’ 

A long  list  of  earthquakes  and  their  disastrous  effects 
follows,  hundreds  of  shocks  having  been  experienced  in  all 
parts  of  the  country,  and  including  that  in  1746,  already 


343 


Earthquakes  and  Tidal  Waves 

described  in  Callao.  A Dominican  priest,  Father  Alonzo 
del  Rio,  of  known  virtue,  acting  under  the  impulse  of  a 
premonition,  an  hour  before  that  terrible  event  went  out 
into  the  streets,  crucifix  in  hand,  and  exhorting  the  people 
to  commend  themselves  to  God.  He  was  taken  for  a 
madman  ! In  the  following  year,  in  the  month  of 
February,  a notice  was  posted  in  the  churches,  requiring 

“ All  women,  of  whatever  class,  to  use  clothes  which 
should  reach  to  the  feet,  so  that  when  they  rode  on  mule- 
back  their  legs  could  not  be  seen.  Also  the  arms  were 
to  be  covered  to  the  wrists!” 

“ On  the  20th,  the  Viceroy  (Ecclesiastical  as  well 
as  Civil  authority)  formed  a procession,  carrying  the 
wondrous  image  of  the  Virgin  of  the  Rosario,  and  in  a 
crystal  urn  the  sacred  bones  of  Santa  Rosa  and  San 
Francisca  Salona,  patron  saints  of  Lima.” 

“From  the  28th  October,  1756,  to  the  16th  February, 
1747,  there  were  counted  in  Lima  400  earthquake  shocks. 
After  the  Callao  wave  and  destruction,  among  other 
incidents,  there  were  observed  four  persons  floating  on 
a pile  of  wood,  whom  it  was  impossible  to  approach  or 
succour,  but  from  the  top  of  the  cliff,  where  their  faint 
cries  reached,  the  cur  a absolved  and  blessed  them,  when 
they  perished  in  view  of  the  multitude.” 

“ In  this  same  catastrophe  the  coast  north  and  south  of 
Callao  was  inundated,  and  in  some  places  hundreds  of 
corpses,  battered  to  pieces  by  the  floating  wreckage,  were 
thrown  up  and  left  by  the  retiring  tide.” 

Such,  in  brief,  are  extracts  from  some  of  these  fateful 
occurrences.  It  would  be  tedious  to  attempt  to  enumerate 
all  the  earthquake  shocks  of  Peruvian  history,  so  numerous 
have  they  been.  During  my  stay  in  Lima  I felt,  on  one 
occasion,  a severe  shock,  and  a statue  of  Saint  Peter  on 
the  parapet  of  the  Cathedral  opposite  gave  a half-turn 
upon  its  pedestal,  and  remained  reversed.  This,  of  course, 
was  due  to  the  seismic  movement,  and  was  only  one  of 
other  occurrences — of  falling  chimneys  and  cornices,  and 
cracking  of  church  towers  throughout  the  city.  The  pro- 
cession of  religious  persons  and  priests  for  the  placating 
of  Divine  anger  and  supposed  prevention  of  earthquakes 
is  still  regularly  conducted  in  Lima. 


344 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


There  is  something  pathetic  about  the  description  of 
these  occurrences.  The  terror  of  the  people  ; the  interces- 
sions for  mercy  ; the  supposed  miraculous  events  ; the  fear 
of  Divine  anger  ; the  implacable  and  seemingly  heartless 
acts  of  Nature,  to  whose  immovable  ear  are  directed  the 
agonised  appeal  of  thousands  of  human  beings — Nature, 
to  whom  the  destruction  of  her  creatures  in  an  earthquake 
bears,  perhaps,  a relation  such  as  the  act  of  a man,  who, 
thoughtlessly  treading  upon  an  ant-hill,  strikes  destruc- 
tion to  its  inmates  ! 

But  the  most  remarkable  condition  relating  to 
earthquakes  and  kindred  catastrophes  is  the  quickness 
with  which  they  are  forgotten.  The  ants,  perturbed  by 
the  footstep,  feverishly  reconstruct  their  ant-hill ; man, 
crushed  by  falling  ruins,  builds  up  his  walls  and  towers 
again  on  the  same  spot,  and  in  the  same  manner  as 
before  the  cataclysm  that  destroyed  him.  Is  it  constancy 
and  hope,  or  unreason  and  imprudence  ? At  any  rate,  it 
seems  remarkable  that  he  should  build  the  same  kind  of 
structures  as  those  which  fell.  The  chief  source  of  fear 
and  danger  in  a earthquake  is  that  of  falling  buildings ; 
yet  buildings  could  be  constructed  such  as  would  resist 
any  movement.  Nevertheless,  in  Arequipa,  which  once 
suffered  terribly,  vaulted  roofs  are  still  built.  In  Valparaiso 
and  San  Francisco  the  enterprising  spirit  of  the  Chilean 
and  of  the  American  is  already  raising  up  their  buildings, 
but  they  will  differ  little  from  the  former  type  of  those 
which  were  destroyed.  Lima  and  her  sister  - cities  of 
the  Pacific  Coast  are  exposed  to  the  same  fate,  at  any 
moment,  as  has  befallen  the  Chilean  and  Californian 
cities,  yet  their  inhabitants  slumber  on  in  blind  fatuity, 
and  take  no  steps  to  ensure  safety  in  the  construction  of 
their  dwellings. 

One  moral  is  impressed  upon  the  traveller  by  these 
occurrences — the  fragility  of  man’s  structures,  the  evan- 
escence of  his  riches  and  his  plans,  the  vanity  of  his 
selfish  acts.  All,  all,  go  down  before  the  least  breath 
of  Nature ; nothing  remains  but  the  memory  of  good ; 


Earthquakes  and  Tidal  Waves  345 

nothing  is  stable  save  the  spirit  of  rectitude  and  the 
consciousness  of  Infinity. 

“The  soul,  secured  in  her  existence,  smiles  . . . 

The  stars  shall  fade  away,  the  sun  himself 
Grow  dim  with  age  ! . . . 

But  thou  shalt  flourish  in  immortal  youth 
Unhurt  amid  the  war  of  elements, 

The  wreck  of  matter,  and  the  crush  of  worlds  ! ” 


CHAPTER  XXXIV 


COLONISATION,  COMMERCE,  RAILWAY'S 

As  has  been  shown  throughout  these  chapters,  one  of 
the  chief  requirements  for  Peru’s  development  is  immigra- 
tion. The  corollary  to  that  statement  is:  44  What  has 
Peru  to  offer  to  immigrants  ?” 

The  first  requisite  is  land.  Peru  is  divided,  topo- 
graphically and  climatologically,  as  has  been  shown, 
into  three  principal  regions : viz.,  the  Pacific  coast-zone ; 
the  Andean  slopes  and  plateau ; and  the  Montafia,  or 
region  of  forests.  Is  the  coast-zone  suitable  for  immigra- 
tion? It  is  to  a certain  extent.  Valuable  agricultural 
products  are  grown  there,  but  this  must  be  done  by  means 
of  irrigation,  it  being  a rainless  region.  Of  course,  the 
capacity  of  a country  for  absorbing  immigrants,  especially 
such  a country  as  Peru  where  industries  are  largely  agri- 
cultural, depends  largely  upon  the  amount  of  land  avail- 
able for  cultivation.  Due  to  the  conditions  prevailing  on 
this  coast  - zone,  the  irrigable  land  is  but  a fraction  of 
the  total  area.  That  is  to  say,  the  waters  available  (with- 
out storage)  from  the  rivers  which  flow  westwardly  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean  and  water  this  region,  give  a volume  which 
could  irrigate  but  a small  portion  of  it  There  are, 
of  course,  other  methods  of  irrigation,  as  artesian  wells, 
which  have  given  excellent  results,  so  far,  in  this  zone, 
as  was  to  have  been  expected  from  its  formation;  and 
water-storage  in  reservoirs,  of  the  superfluous  run  - off, 
from  the  rivers,  as  practised  in  India.  In  comparison 
with  the  east  coast  of  South  America,  in  similar  lati- 
tudes, that  of  Peru  is  wonderfully  temperate  and  healthy, 
from  reasons  which  have  been  given  elsewhere.  The 

346 


Colonisation,  Commerce,  Railways  347 

drawback  to  the  valleys  is  the  paludismo , or  light  malaria 
which  is  met  with  in  places ; but  this  is  not  necessarily 
general  nor  always  serious.  This  zone — about  1,500  miles 
long  and  60  to  90  wide — offers,  then,  conditions  which 
will  support  a certain  considerable  population,  which 
may  cultivate  many  products,  such  as  cotton,  sugar-cane, 
ramie,  rice,  maize,  grapes  and  vines,  olives,  tobacco, 
bananas,  and  a large  variety  of  other  fruits  and  plants. 
Peruvian  cotton  and  sugar-cane  are  too  well  known  to 
require  much  description.  They  rank  among  the  best  in 
the  world  in  quality.  Of  course,  the  lands  most  suitable 
for  these  products  near  the  coast  are  taken  up,  but  the 
intending  settler  can  either  rent  from  the  owners,  making 
payment  in  a percentage  of  his  crop,  or  take  up  virgin 
land  and  institute  irrigation  works.  There  are  large  areas 
which  can  be  secured  for  this  latter  purpose  by  Govern- 
ment concession. 

Coming  next  to  the  foot  - hills  and  slopes  of  the 
Andes : these,  on  the  western  side,  are  also  in  a semi- 
rainless region,  but  bear  pasture,  due  to  the  heavy  mists 
which  at  certain  seasons  lie  there.  They,  with  the  great 
tablelands  or  plateaux,  support  vast  herds  of  sheep 
and  cattle,  llamas,  and  alpacas,  etc.  They  are  generally 
covered  with  prairie  grass,  and  wheat,  barley,  oats,  and 
other  products  have  their  habitat  there,  up  to  certain 
elevations.  The  climate  is  bracing  and  healthy,  and  the 
panoramas  magnificent,  as  has  been  shown  in  the  chapters 
upon  Peruvian  travel.  Great  areas  of  land  can  be  acquired, 
suitable  for  cattle  ranches.  It  is  upon  the  slopes  of  the 
Andes  that  the  principal  mining  regions  exist,  and  these 
mines,  and  the  requirements  to  which  they  give  rise,  will 
afford  employment  to  large  numbers  of  immigrants,  in 
other  than  agricultural  pursuits.  There  is  no  doubt  that 
the  cattle  and  wool  industries  are  capable  of  very  great 
extension  in  these  regions.  The  more  detailed  conditions 
will  be  seen  from  a perusal  of  the  foregoing  chapters  of 
this  book. 

The  eastern  slopes  and  foot-hills  of  the  Andes  are  of 
a different  character  to  the  western,  in  that  they  are  in 


348 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


a region  subject  to  heavy  rainfall  at  certain  seasons. 
There  is  a splendid  zone  of  territory  here,  extending 
all  along  the  base  of  the  Andes  and  bordering  on  the 
rivers  which  parallel  the  chain,  as  the  upper  portion 
of  the  Maranon,  and  the  southern  rivers,  before  described. 
Anything  can  be  grown  here,  and  when  the  territory  has 
been  rendered  accessible  by  means  of  railways,  it  ought 
rapidly  to  become  a well-populated  region. 

We  now  descend  into  the  Montana,  or  region  of 
forests.  This  has  been  sufficiently  described  in  the 
chapters  devoted  to  it  It  is  a region  of  enormous 
possibilities,  and  it  is  astonishing  that  in  this  greedy  and 
progressive  age  it  still  lies  fallow.  Gold,  timber,  and 
india-rubber  are  some  of  its  chief  products  at  present, 
but  it  is  a territory  of  the  most  varied  resources,  of  vast 
agricultural  possibilities,  and  has  been  described  by  many 
travellers.  Its  varieties  of  climate  and  vegetation  are 
never-endin',. 

There  are,  then,  three  main  regions : or  it  were  better 
to  describe  them  as  five,  viz. : — the  coast  - zone ; the 
western  Andean  slopes  and  valleys  ; the  plateau  of  the 
Andes ; the  eastern  slopes  and  valleys ; the  Montafta. 
Here  is  choice  of  climate,  products,  topography,  and  every 
other  environment  that  the  varying  habit  or  desire  of 
the  European  emigrant  might  dictate.  He  will  not  find 
ready-made  homes ; he  will  have  to  carve  his  own  way, 
and  spread  his  own  table  in  the  wilderness ; but  he  will 
find  the  material  at  hand.  He  will  find  lands  untilled, 
rivers  unfished,  forests  unaxed,  mines  unworked — why? 
Because  the  surplus  labour  and  capital  of  the  world  has 
not  yet  reached  this  land  ; it  lies  fallow  still. 

I will  now  give  some  extracts  from  published  descrip- 
tions of  their  country  by  the  Peruvian  Government,  and 
various  Peruvian  and  other  writers,  relating  to  immigra- 
tion. There  is,  of  course,  in  some  of  such  descriptions  a 
tendency  to  poetical  effect,  and  at  times  to  exaggeration. 
The  usual  phrases  of  “inexhaustible  riches,”  “eternal 
spring,”  and  so  forth,  are  generally  found  in  pamphlets 
relating  to  matters  of  this  nature,  but  the  wise  observer 


Colonisation,  Commerce,  Railways  349 

knows  that  the  conditions  of  travel  and  settlement  in 
new  countries  are  always  hard,  although  at  the  same 
time  he  philosophically  seeks  the  compensating  advan- 
tages which  they  afford,  and  forbears  to  sigh  for  the 
“ flesh-pots  ” — often  imaginary — of  the  land  he  has  left. 
The  official  pamphlet  says : 

“ Comparing  the  area  and  population  of  Peru  with  that 
of  some  European  countries,  we  have : 


Country. 


Area  in  square 
miles. 


Population  per 
square  mile. 


Peru  .... 
France  and  Algeria  . 
Germany  .... 
Spain  .... 
Great  Britain  and  Ireland 
Italy  .... 


701,600 

4-1 

391,500 

i88'o  (France) 

208,800 

270-0 

195,000 

97 'o 

1 2 1 ,000 

346-0 

I 10,500 

294-0 

The  population  of  this  great  territory  of  Peru  is  only 
about  3,000,000 ; and  the  above  clearly  brings  out  the 
fact  that  Peru  contains  a vast,  sparsely-populated  terri- 
tory greater  than  that  of  any  European  country  except 
Russia,  and  capable  of  containing  many  more  millions 
of  inhabitants/’ 

“ The  population  of  the  coast  might  be  fairly  estimated 
at  750,000  inhabitants.  The  white  race  is  the  most  largely 
distributed  along  the  coast,  and  constitutes  the  main 
element  of  progress  and  wealth  in  the  country.  The 
city  of  Lima  alone  contains  more  than  70,000  foreigners. 
The  bulk  of  the  Peruvian  population  — over  2,000,000 
of  the  Indian  race — lives  in  the  Sierra  (the  uplands  and 
valleys  of  the  Andes),  which  is  the  healthiest  region  in 
the  world.  These  natives  are  strong  and  frugal,  and  are 
much  sought  after  as  mining  labourers.  They  are 
descendants  of  the  ancient  and  noble  race  of  the  Incas, 
and  are  of  light-coloured  skin.” 

“ Notwithstanding  its  tropical  position,  the  country 
is  healthy  and  free  from  those  dangerous  diseases  which 
sometimes  prevail  in  the  Torrid  Zone.  It  enjoys  every 
variety  of  climate,  owing  to  great  differences  of  elevation. 
Along  the  coast  the  mean  temperature  is  from  64°  to  68° 
Fahr.  Those  who  desire  cooler,  or  cold  weather,  have 
only  to  ascend  the  slopes  of  the  Andes.  On  the  Sierra 
it  is  as  cool  as  the  south  of  England  ; on  the  coast  it  is 
as  warm  as  the  south  of  France,  whilst  it  is  not  much 


350 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


warmer  in  the  Montafia.  On  the  plateaux  it  is  as  cold 


as  in  Scotland.  A 
each  of  the  three 
the  following : 

Coast. 

Lima,  66*  F. 

Piura,  77*  F. 
Moquegua,  63*. 


fair  idea  of  the 
zones  of  Peru  nr 


Sierra. 

Cajamarca,  52*  F. 
Huaraz,  59*  F. 
Arequipa,  57*  F. 


an  temperature  in 
be  gathered  from 

Mon  tafia. 

Iquitos,  75*  F. 
Huanuco,  74*  F. 
Santa  Ana,  72*  F* 


“The  region  of  the  coast  is  sunny,  and  rain  seldom 
falls.  At  Lima,  and  all  along  the  coast,  the  sun  is 
tempered  by  the  cool  southerly  breezes,  and  the  climate 
throughout  the  year  is  well  suited  to  Europeans.  The 
sun  is  rarely  hidden  by  clouds  for  a single  day  in  the 
year.  The  maximum  temperature  in  Lima  in  summer 
is  78°  Fahr.,  and  in  winter  59°  Fahr.  The  climate  of  the 
Sierra  is  exceedingly  invigorating ; it  is  subject  in  the 
higher  parts  to  rain  and  snow.  In  the  Mon  tafia  there 
are  two  seasons:  dry'  from  May  to  October,  and  wet 
from  November  to  April.  The  total  annual  rainfall  is 
estimated  at  about  70  inches.  A typical  town  of  the 
Montafta  is  Chachapoyas,  7,600  feet  above  sea-level, 
possessing  a delightful  climate  whose  temperature  ranges 
from  40  to  70"  Fahr.,  with  a mean  of  62  Fahr.  Another 
similar  place  is  the  City  of  Moyobamba,  standing  in  a 
most  luxurious  situation,  at  an  altitude  of  2,700  feet, 
with  a mean  annual  temperature  of  77°  Fahr.” 

“ In  the  industrial  establishments  on  the  coast-zone 
there  is  always  a demand  for  good  foremen  and  skilled 
employees  to  direct  the  work  in  the  fields,  and  also  for 
mechanics,  sugar-boilers,  distillers,  carpenters,  blacksmiths, 
wine-growers,  wine-makers,  and  workmen  in  general.  In 
some  of  the  valleys  only  a portion  of  the  rich  land  is 
under  cultivation,  and  is  still  available  for  agricultural 
purposes.” 

“The  production  of  sugar  per  acre  on  the  coast  is 
calculated  at  700  quintals  of  cane  (101*5  lbs.)  and  56 
quintals  of  sugar,  as  against  the  highest  foreign  (Java) 
production  of  312,  and  31*2  quintals  of  cane  and  sugar 
respectively.” 

The  production  of  sugar  in  1905  was  160,000  tons. 
As  to  cotton,  the  coast  produces  (Piura)  the  remarkable 
cotton  called  vegetable  wool,  known  in  Europe  as  • full 
rough”  and  “moderate  rough.”  This  cotton  is  unique 


Colonisation,  Commerce,  Railways  351 

in  its  class.  Other  kinds  of  cotton  are  grown,  as 
Sea  Island,  Peruvian  Mitafifi,  and  the  American  smooth 
variety.  All  these  Peruvian  cottons  fetch  higher  prices 
than  the  American  cottons.  The  world’s  production  of 
raw  cotton  cannot  cope  with  the  world’s  demands  ; and 
it  is  well  to  draw  attention  to  the  fact  that  in  Peru  there 
are  enormous  areas  suitable  for  its  cultivation,  under 
irrigation,  such  as  could  supply  any  deficiency.  The 
value  of  the  production  of  cotton  and  its  by-products 
in  Peru  for  1904  was  ^4 15,000. 

The  Peruvians  have  recognised  the  necessity  for 
scientific  advance  in  the  main  industries  of  their  soil, 
and  the  School  of  Agriculture  has  given  good  results. 
The  School  of  Mining  is  also  a flourishing  institution. 
The  amount  of  cultivable  land  in  the  coast-zone  is 
governed  by  the  available  water  supply,  as  I have 
shown.  Not  so,  however,  in  the  Montana,  where  other 
conditions  obtain.  From  a pamphlet  written  by  a 
Peruvian  statistician,  Senor  Alejandro  Garland,  upon 
the  matter  of  colonisation  in  the  Montana,  I translate 
the  following : 

“In  the  north  of  Peru,  on  both  sides  of  the  river 
Marahon,  there  are  more  than  16,000  square  leagues  of 
land  for  colonisation.  Even  deducting  50  per  cent,  of 
this  amount  for  forests,  rivers,  rocks,  etc.,  there  remains 
8,000  square  leagues  (72,000  square  miles)  for  cultiva- 
tion. There  is  no  exaggeration  in  valuing  at  thousands 
of  millions  of  dollars  the  capital  these  lands  would 
represent  with  fifteen  years  of  colonisation  and  work. 
No  other  territory  in  South  America  offers  such 
facilities  as  this — the  facilities  of  being  in  communi- 
cation with  two  oceans,  the  Pacific  and  the  Atlantic. 
The  millions  of  acres  in  this  section  of  our  territory 
could  form  a great  centre  of  colonisation  and  commerce, 
here  upon  the  head- waters  of  navigation  of  the  Amazon. 
The  highlands  of  this  region  enjoy  a temperature  similar 
to  that  of  the  south  of  France;  whilst  the  valleys  are 
hot.  The  products  of  both  a tropical  and  a temperate 
zone  are  encountered  together ; in  the  same  basket  you 
may  put  barley,  wheat,  oranges,  bananas,  pineapples, 
and  even  coffee,  chocolate,  and  tobacco.  To  their  riches 
are  to  be  added  others  still  greater : in  every  hill  are 


352 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


minerals  of  copper,  gold,  and  silver;  and,  in  short,  as 
soon  as  the  hand  of  man  shall  penetrate  there  these  gifts 
of  Providence  must  be  utilised,  for  Providence  has  pre- 
pared there  the  most  beautiful  recompenses,  such  as  have 
never  before  satisfied  the  aspirations  of  man." 

“In  this  region  the  best  conditions  are  united  for 
colonisation  by  European  races.  The  climate  is  healthy 
and  delicious,  malaria  is  unknown,  as  the  altitude  neutra- 
lises the  effects  of  tropical  latitude.  These  enormous 
plains  which  Peru  possesses  in  her  northern  region,  on 
the  eastern  slopes  of  the  Andes,  at  1,500  to  2,000  feet 
above  sea -level,  more  or  less,  are  entirely  appropriate 
for  colonisation  by  European  immigrants.” 

The  region  above  described  includes  that  of  which  I 
have  spoken  as  the  “Upper  Montafta,”  and  it  is  certainly 
a magnificent  territory,  almost  unknown,  so  far,  to  the 
outside  world.  It  is  towards  this  region  that  capitalists 
and  colonists  should  direct  their  attention.  They  can 
reach  it  either  by  crossing  the  Andes  from  Pacific  Coast 
ports,  or  by  ascending  the  Amazon  from  the  Atlantic 
coast  of  Brazil.  This  splendid  region  will  be  opened  up 
by  the  railway  uniting  the  port  of  Payta  on  the  Pacific 
Coast  with  the  port  of  Limon  on  the  Marafton,  which  I 
have  advocated  elsewhere.  The  enormous  Department  of 
Loreto,  of  something  like  270,000  square  miles  in  area,  is 
a possession  of  which  any  nation  might  be  proud.  The 
capital  of  this  Department — Iquitos,  river  port  and  town — 
must  assuredly  become  a most  important  commercial  and 
strategic  centre  in  the  future.  The  line  of  railway  will 
give  through  communication  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean  via 
Para,  Manaos,  Tabatinga  (which  latter  place  is  on  the 
Peruvian  frontier),  Iquitos,  and  Port  Limon,  to  the  Pacific 
Coast  at  Payta,  as  elsewhere  described.  The  interesting 
pamphlet  written  by  the  Peruvian  statistician,  Seftor 
Garland,  on  this  subject,  from  which  I have  translated 
elsewhere,  deals  with  this  project  also. 

Of  course.  Agriculture  and  Mining  need  not  occupy 
the  attention  only  of  the  immigrants  into  Peruvian 
territory.  Businesses  of  all  kinds  call  for  capital  and 
labour.  Manufactures  will  be  obliged  to  expand  greatly 


Colonisation,  Commerce,  Railways  353 

in  the  future,  and  small  capitalists  could  do  well  in  many 
of  the  various  branches  of  manufacturing,  of  modern 
communities ; and  such  matters  are  more  likely  to  be 
remunerative  than  the  mere  shopkeeping  which  so  many 
of  the  foreigners — especially  the  Italians — pursue  in  South 
American  countries. 

More  capital  is  the  great  need  of  the  country.  Agri- 
cultural and  mining  enterprise  is,  at  present,  stifled  for 
want  of  money,  as  well  as  want  of  labour.  There  are 
several  banks  in  the  capital,  such  as  the  Bank  of  Peru 
and  London,  the  Italian  and  German  Banks,  and  the 
National  Banks ; but  their  powers  are  not  adequate  to 
the  needs  of  the  country,  and  certainly  will  not  be,  in 
view  of  its  probable  future  expansion.  A bank  which 
could  lend  funds  for  developing  mines  ought  to  give 
profitable  results. 

The  following  extracts  I translate  from  the  account 
published  from  the  edition  of  12th  January,  1906,  of  the 
Comercio , one  of  the  leading  newspapers  of  Lima,  reviewing 
the  state  of  trade  of  the  Republic  of  Peru. 

“ The  fiscal  wealth  of  the  country  has  increased  in 
more  than  100  per  cent,  during  the  period  of  peace  and 
tranquillity  which  began  in  1895.  Even  better  results 
have  obtained  during  the  past  year — 1905 — and  this  is 
largely  due  to  the  activity  and  energy  of  the  present 
administration.  The  best  exponent  of  public  wealth — 
Commerce — has  risen  in  Peru  in  value  during  the  past 
year,  to  a figure  which  it  has  never  before  reached — not 
even  during  the  famous  times  of  the  guano  and  the 
nitrate,  which  Chile  now  enjoys,  and  which  gave  us  the 
fictitious  prosperity  which  caused  the  war.  The  imports 
and  exports  for  1905 — the  latter  being  slightly  greater 
than  the  former  — are  calculated  in  ^10,000,000:  the 
highest  figure  which  the  business  of  the  country  has  ever 
reached.” 

The  currency  of  Peru  is  established  on  the  gold  basis, 
and  the  fact  of  the  British  pound  sterling  being  a legal 
and  current  coin  is  very  convenient  for  foreigners. 

The  great  essential  need  for  the  development  of  the 
South  American  Republics  on  the  Pacific  side  of  the 

z 


354 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


Continent  is,  as  I have  reiterated  elsewhere,  the  con- 
struction of  railways.  Political  dissension  and  questions 
of  boundary  will  largely  diminish  when  means  of  com- 
munication between  capitals  and  the  outlying  parts  of 
Republics  are  better  established,  and  when  more  frequent 
travel  takes  place  between  neighbouring  states.  Pro - 
nunciamientos  and  revolutions  have  been  stifled  in 
Mexico,  as  an  example,  chiefly  by  the  construction  of 
railway  and  telegraph  lines. 

The  existing  railways  of  Peru  are  principally  short 
lines  which  run  normal  to  the  coast,  and  die  a natural 
death  on  encountering  the  slopes  of  the  Andes.  There 
arc  two  exceptions,  as  has  been  described  elsewhere. 
The  railway  from  Mollendo  surmounts  the  Andes  and 
gives  outlet  to  that  vast  region  of  Titicaca,  Cuzco,  and 
part  of  Bolivia.  The  Central  Railway  from  Callao  and 
Lima,  constructed  at  enormous  cost  amid  bribery  and 
corruption,  years  ago,  surmounts  the  Andes  and  taps 
important  mining  and  agricultural  regions,  taking  freight 
up  and  down  under  heavy  charges,  due  largely  to  heavy 
grades  and  cost  of  maintenance.  But  it  stops  there  in 
the  Andes,  although  it  is  projected  to  continue  it  onward 
and  downward  again  easterly  towards  the  Amazon.  The 
great  Pan-American  railway,  which  would  traverse  Peru 
longitudinally,  seems  not  to  emerge  yet  from  the  land 
of  paper  or  of  dreams.  It  is  strange  that,  notwithstanding 
the  great  undertakings  in  railway  work  being  carried  out 
in  other  continents  of  the  world,  in  Canada,  Africa,  etc, 
no  great  railway  spirit  or  genius  arises  to  link  together 
the  wonderful  continent  which  Columbus  found,  from  end 
to  end.  But  it  will  come. 

As  regards  Peru,  she  is  too  poor  to  undertake  very  much, 
although  she  is  doing  what  she  can  in  her  territory  with 
several  short  lines  and  extensions,  one  of  which  goes  to 
the  old  Inca  capital  of  Cuzco,  and  another  to  the  fertile 
valleys  of  Jauja  and  Huancaya  Longitudinal  railways 
should  be  built,  one  on  the  plateau  and  one  on  the 
coast,  and  those  extensions  form  part  of  such  a system. 
Living  is  dear  in  the  cities  of  the  coast,  which  depend 


Colonisation,  Commerce,  Railways  3 55 

much  for  the  necessaries  of  life  on  the  steamers,  and 
which  would  be  cheapened  by  railways  connecting  them 
with  each  other  and  with  agricultural  centres,  both  cis- 
Andean  and  ultra-Andean.  This  is  only  a question  of 
time,  when  the  attention  of  foreign  capitalists  may  be 
turned  that  way,  and,  indeed,  there  are  various  matters 
of  this  nature  pending.  For  the  construction  of  railways 
Peru  offers  valuable  concessions  of  territory,  such  as  in 
any  other  continent  would  seem  to  form  sufficient  induce- 
ment. These  lands  will,  in  the  future,  be  as  valuable, 

or  possibly  more  so,  as  those  which  in  North  America 

Canada — are  witnessing  such  marked  changes. 

The  total  length  of  railways  in  Peru  is  about  1,400 
miles.  Of  this  the  Central  takes  about  200,  and  the 
Southern  or  Mollendo  — Arequipa,  including  Puno  and 
Cuzco — 450  miles,  whilst  the  rest  is  distributed  among 
about  forty-five  other  smaller  systems.  The  Peruvian 
Corporation,  which,  as  before  described,  controls  the 
greater  part  of  these  railways,  has  made  marked  im- 
provements recently  ; and  due  chiefly  to  the  growing 
development  of  the  country,  the  earnings  are  increasing 
considerably.  Thus,  whilst  in  1891,  according  to  the 
published  figures,  the  profits  were  about  £56,000,  in 
1904  they  were  £220,000;  and  in  1905  a further  marked 
increase  took  place,  the  earnings  being  £703,900. 

As  has  been  intimated  elsewhere,  there  is  a long- 
standing disagreement  between  this  Company  and  the 
Government  of  Peru,  which  it  is  not  within  the  province 
of  this  book  to  comment  much  upon.  There  is  doubtless 
something  to  be  said  on  both  sides,  but  some  reflections 
may  be  made.  The  Company  certainly  possesses  a 
magnificent  property,  and  opportunities  which  are  sus- 
ceptible of  great  development  and  extension,  as  stated 
in  another  chapter,  and  they  should  be  generous  and 
conciliatory.  And  as  regards  Peru,  it  is  certainly  better 
for  the  country  that  the  railways  should  be  administered 
by  foreigners  and  non-officials.  Government  ownership 
of  railways  would  be  disastrous ; they  would  simply  and 
inevitably  develop  into  political  machines,  such  as  is  the 


350 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


unfortunate  fate  of  government  and  municipal  controlled 
enterprises  in  all  American  countries — North  or  South. 
The  Government  will  do  well  to  leave  railway  enterprise 
in  private  hands,  and  to  foster  their  construction — as 
they  are  at  present  doing — by  judicious  subsidies.  And 
greatly  bound  up  with  the  matter  of  railways  is  that  of 
immigration  and  colonisation.  Some  experiments  have 
been  made  with  the  establishing  of  foreign  colonies  in 
Peru  during  the  latter  half  of  last  century;  most  of 
which  have  failed.  Much  literature  and  theory  have 
been  emitted  upon  the  subject ; but  no  amount  of 
theoretical  examination  and  discussion  will  cause  im- 
migration to  flow  into  a country  until  a natural  pressure 
from  the  emigratory  source  takes  place.  This  natural 
pressure  can,  of  course,  be  attracted  or  diverted  towards 
this  or  that  part  of  the  earth's  surface,  given  conditions 
acceptable  for  the  life  of  Europeans  upon  the  new  land. 
And  if  Peru  is  to  become  a centre  of  rest  for  part  of 
this  pressure — and  there  is  no  reason  why  it  should  not — 
attention  must  be  called  towards  it,  and  some  railways — 
or  at  least  a main  railway — made  into  the  territory  it  is 
intended  to  settle.  Evil  reputations,  also,  must  be  dissi- 
pated, both  of  governments  and  of  territories  — that  is 
to  say,  of  revolutions  and  lack  of  security  on  the  one 
hand,  and  of  fevers,  wild  beasts,  and  other  exaggerated 
matters  on  the  other.  This  region  of  the  Amazon  has 
persistently  refused  to  become  colonised,  and  in  the 
half-century  or  more  since  steam  navigation  began  on 
this  great  river  (1853),  neither  the  fact  of  its  natural 
resources  nor  the  efforts  of  the  States  occupying  it  have 
been  sufficient  to  cause  it  to  become  the  scene  of  activity 
which  has  long  been  predicted  for  it  Nevertheless,  the 
existence  of  these  great  navigable  highways,  facilitating 
access,  is  beginning  now  to  cause  a marked  change  and 
progress,  which  will  undoubtedly  increase  day  by  day, 
as  the  region  becomes  more  known. 

It  is  not  too  much  to  predict  for  Peru  in  the  near  future 
a great  development  upon  stable  lines  of  her  territory 
and  resources.  She  yields  staple  articles  for  the  world’s 


Colonisation,  Commerce,  Railways  357 

commerce — cotton,  copper,  wool,  sugar,  india-rubber,  and 
a host  of  other  valuable  articles — whilst  the  opportunities 
for  trade  and  manufacture  are  considerable  and  growing. 
Her  lands  and  general  attractions  are  certainly  not  inferior 
— they  are  in  many  cases  superior — to  those  of  other  and 
even  more  remote  countries  which  are  now  under  develop- 
ment, and  she  is  inhabited,  moreover,  by  a peaceable  people, 
“thirsty  for  progress,  extending  the  hand  of  welcome  to 
the  foreigner  who  seeks  her  shores.”  Peru  in  transition 
offers  a field  of  operation  for  the  capitalist,  the  merchant, 
the  immigrant,  the  agriculturalist,  the  miner  ; and  it  seems 
probable  that  the  tide  of  development  and  prosperity  must 
sweep  that  way  before  long,  as  it  has  to  such  a marked 
extent  in  Mexico,  Argentina,  and  other  kindred  countries 
of  the  New  World. 


CHAPTER  XXXV 


SOUTH  AMERICAN  RELATIONS 

The  Peruvians  consider  that  their  country  is  one  of  those 
which  will  be  most  benefited  by  the  construction  of  the 
Panama  Canal,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  this  assumption 
is  made  in  reason.  The  through  traffic  from  Europe  and 
the  New  York  side  of  the  United  States,  which  will  result 
with  the  West  Coast  of  South  America  if  this  work  is 
successfully  carried  to  completion,  should  cause  the  rapid 
development  of  the  countries  of  that  littoral ; and  Peru, 
Ecuador,  and  Colombia,  being  those  nearest  to  Panama, 
will  feel  the  effects  earliest.  Peru,  moreover,  possesses 
the  best  harbours,  such  as  Payta — which  I have  described 
elsewhere — Chimbotc  (a  splendid  bay),  Callao,  etc  In  the 
same  way  that  Chile,  the  southernmost  country  of  South 
America,  has  benefited  most  by  the  steamers  from  Europe 
and  North  America  which  |>ass  the  Straits  of  Magellan,  or 
the  I lorn,  so  the  northernmost  countries  will  benefit  by  the 
steamers  which  arrive  via  Panama.  Hitherto  they  have 
been  isolated  : cut  off  from  European  influence  by  that 
narrow  topographical  barrier  of  the  isthmus  of  Panama, 
which  it  is  expected  the  North  Americans  will  eliminate. 
Indeed,  the  Americans  owe  the  world  something  in  this 
respect  in  atonement  for  the  machinations  which  caused 
Panama  to  declare  itself  a separate  community — machina- 
tions which,  it  is  considered,  emanated  from  the  United 
States,  taking  from  the  Republic  of  Colombia  her  great 
and  valuable  birthright  of  the  Canal  site.  The  affair  was 
one  of  expediency,  and  not  of  morality,  and  viewed  as 
an  academic  question  was  un-American,  using  the  word 
“ American  ” in  its  true  sense.  But  the  act  was  partly 

353 


South  American  Relations 


359 


brought  on  by  the  mistaken  policy  of  the  Colombians 
themselves,  and  they  have,  moreover,  received  some 
compensation.  The  subject  has  now  gone  down  into 
history,  and  if  new  conditions  do  not  arise  all  the  nations 
will  be  benefited  by  the  building  of  the  Canal.  Whether 
the  North  Americans  will  adopt  a cosmopolitan  policy, 
such  as  Great  Britain’s  in  such  matters,  only  the  future 
can  show.  “ Quien  vive,  vera  ! ” 

As  shown  elsewhere,  Peru  is  demonstrating  a wise  and 
reasonable  attitude  towards  her  neighbours  as  to  ques- 
tions of  boundary  ; and  this  is  necessary,  for  the  constant 
friction  over  matters  of  territorial  rights,  principally  in  the 
region  of  the  Amazon,  has  continually  disturbed  the  South 
American  peace.  Peru  has  had  but  one  friendly  neighbour 
for  some  time  past — the  Pacific  Ocean,  whose  billows  wash 
her  1,500  miles  of  coast.  Her  other  neighbours  seem,  some- 
times, to  be  bent  upon  enlarging  their  own  borders  at  her 
expense,  in  view  of  the  fact  that  she  is  almost  unarmed 
and  peaceably  disposed.  Some  of  them  have  even  accused 
her  of  being  the  disturbing  element ; but  this  reminds  the 
foreign  observer  of  the  old  controversy  between  the  wolf 
and  the  lamb,  regarding  the  turbidity  of  the  stream  ! 

The  relations  between  the  various  South  American 
countries  are — not  unlike  those  of  other  continents  often — 
governed  by  measures  of  expediency  or  self-interest,  rather 
than  justice.  The  policy  of  Chile  towards  Peru,  in  the 
question  of  Tacna  and  Arica,  partakes  of  this  character  ; 
and  this  is  unfortunate,  for  the  natural  progress  and 
development  of  the  two  countries,  rather  than  clashing, 
runs  upon  parallel  lines.  In  their  relations  with  each  other 
South  American  countries  should  not  forget  the  significance 
of  the  proverb  of  their  race  : 

“To-day  to  thee — to-morrow  to  me  ! ” 

for  none  know  what  the  future  may  have  in  store  on  that 
changeable  continent.  As  to  Ecuador,  Peru’s  northern 
neighbour,  it  is  commonly  stated  that  she  is  under  the 
influence  of  Chile  in  regard  to  the  policy  of  antagonism  to 
Peru.  Whether  or  not  this  is  really  the  case  it  is  difficult 


860 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


to  say.  The  Ecuatorians  are  a people  of  progressive  spirit, 
and  will  probably  develop  a judicious  foreign  policy ; and 
their  boundary  question  with  Peru  once  settled,  there  need 
be  no  question  between  the  two  countries.  Chile  is  a virile 
and  aggressive  nation,  and  moreover  wants,  or  will  want, 
more  territory.  She  cannot  expand  in  her  narrow  strip 
between  the  Andes  and  the  coast,  and  when  the  nitrate  of 
Tarapaca  is  exhausted  she  will  look  about  for  fresh  fields 
for  enterprise  and  revenue.  This  may  be  satisfied  by  her 
alliance  with,  or  absorption  later  of,  Bolivia,  for  the  latter 
Republic  has  allied  herself  with  her  former  antagonist, 
Chile,  instead  of  her  former  ally,  Peru.  The  Argentine 
Republic  and  Chile  glare  at  each  other  over  the  dividing 
summits  of  the  Andes,  maintaining  a mutual  respect  bom 
of  the  knowledge  of  equal  strategic  strength  and  balanced 
armaments  — a factor  for  peace  on  the  Continent.  Peru 
has  carried  on  a friendly  flirtation  with  the  Argentine, 
which  also  tends  towards  stability,  and  offsets  the  Chilean 
antagonism  towards  Peru.  On  the  Atlantic  side,  Argentine 
and  her  neighbour  Brazil  alternately  coquette  and  argue, 
each  bent  on  being  considered  the  dominating  power. 
Peru  and  Brazil  jealously  regard  each  other’s  boundaries  in 
the  region  of  the  Amazon — Brazil  showing  a disposition, 
as  the  stronger  power,  to  encroach  upon  her  neighbour, 
as  also  a latent  — and  sometimes  manifest  — desire  to 
restrict  navigation  on  this  river  as  regards  Peru. 

The  development  of  the  Monroe  Doctrine,  and  its 
enunciation  by  statesmen  of  the  United  States,  has  been 
received  by  South  American  communities  with  varying 
sentiments.  14  The  policy  of  the  big  stick,”  as  it  has  been 
termed,  has  been  reviewed,  criticised,  rejected,  accepted, 
by  turns.  They  hardly  know  what  to  make  of  it  so  far. 
Some  of  them  pronounce  it  a menace  to  their  sovereignty 
or  freedom  of  action.  To  the  aphorism  of  “ America  for 
the  Americans” — the  war-cry  of  the  Doctrine — some  of 
these  states  have  placed  the  ironical  corollary  of  44  For  the 
North  Americans!"  Peru  looks  favourably  towards  the 
United  States,  and  somewhat  in  the  spirit  of  the  law- 
abiding  citizen  who  beholds  with  satisfaction  the  stalwart 


South  American  Relations 


361 


policeman  at  the  street  corner,  for  Peru  has  little  to  fear 
and  much  to  gain  by  North  American  influence  in  South 
America. 

It  has  been  criticised  that  the  Americans  of  the  United 
States  have  arrogated  to  themselves  the  general  nomen- 
clature of  “ Americans,”  for  the  term  geographically  and 
ethnologically  belongs,  of  course,  to  the  Spanish  as  well 
as  the  Anglo-Saxon  people  of  the  New  World.  North 
American  representatives — Ministers  and  Consuls — have, 
however,  received  instructions  from  Washington  to  use  the 
term  officially.  A North  American  Minister  of  Foreign 
Affairs  (Mr  Root)  has  recently  concluded  a tour  of  the  whole 
of  the  South  American  coast  on  board  a United  States 
warship,  visiting  all  those  Republics  on  both  the  Atlantic 
and  the  Pacific  in  the  interests  of  the  Monroe  Doctrine 
and  general  American  affairs.  He  has,  of  course,  been 
well  received.  There  are  no  people  more  hospitable  and 
courteous  than  the  South  Americans,  and  no  doubt  the 
journey  will  be  historic.  But  it  is  doubtful  if  any  great 
change  will  take  place  in  the  mutual  relations  of  the  two 
Americas,  or  that  the  hegemony  of  the  United  States  will 
be  generally  accepted  as  regards  South  American  foreign 
policy.  The  Republic  of  Argentina  is  now  a rich  and 
powerful  community,  and  has  been  so  created  by  the 
influence  of  Europe,  and  the  gold  and  labour  flowing  there- 
from, and  is  not  likely  to  adopt  any  course  which  might 
alienate  or  offend  this.  Somewhat  similar  conditions  obtain 
in  Chile.  The  Chilians  consider  themselves  the  “ British  of 
South  America” — a term  sometimes  varied  also  as  the 
“ Yankees  of  South  America”  ; and  the  development  of  the 
resources  of  their  country  has  been  largely  due  to  British 
gold  and  enterprise,  as,  indeed,  as  concerns  the  latter,  to  a 
certain  extent  was  their  independence  as  a State.  They 
are  an  independent  and  virile  race,  and  would  be  offended 
at  the  least  suggestion  of  North  American  leading-strings. 

Considering  for  a moment  the  subject  of  European 
Colonies  under  political  possession  in  South  America, 
would  such  be  objectionable  from  an  economic  point  of 
view?  Certain  it  is  that  many  of  the  South  American 


802  The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 

States  would  have  been  in  a different  position  now  had 
they  been  British  possessions,  although  possibly  at  the 
expense  of  other  continents  civilised  by  the  British  flag 
and  the  development  which  followed  it.  What,  for 
example,  would  be  the  loss  to  humanity  in  general  or 
the  countries  in  particular  if  the  great  German  Colony 
in  Brazil  grew  and  obtained  political  control  of  some 
Brazilian  territory  on  the  Amazon?  Would  not  the 
enterprising  German  nation  pour  out  her  sons  and  her 
treasure  from  the  Fatherland,  to  spend  them  on  that 
fruitful  soil?  Undoubtedly ; and  a great  progressive 
community  would  be  formed  in  those  vast  regions, 
which  at  present  the  few  million  Brazilians  can  hardly 
touch.  There  could  be  no  loss  to  mankind  in  this, 
rather  a gain ; and  Germany  must  have  a Colonial 
outlet.  Would  the  Brazilians  consent  to  this ; would 
they  or  any  other  South  American  nation  consent  to 
yield  up  part  of  their  inheritance?  It  is  doubtful; 
although  they  might  consider  the  sale  of  some  of  the 
huge  areas  they  arc  continually  taking  from  each  other 
in  the  heart  of  the  continent,  and  which  is  only  inhabited 
at  present  by  hordes  of  Indians  and  monkeys.  When 
and  how  docs  the  possession  of  unsettled  territory  begin? 
By  foreign  Colonists  who  settle  there,  and,  later,  exact 
political  rights?  This  was  how  the  United  States  obtained 
the  huge  State  of  Texas  from  the  Mexicans,  as  well  as 
other  vast  States  which  constitute  a large  part  of  their 
vast  Empire. 

But  if  the  Germans  obtained  part  of  South  America, 
with  political  control,  the  Monroe  Doctrine  would  be 
violated.  Also  with  regard  to  German  Colonies,  the 
phenomenon  is  to  be  observed  that  these  seem  to 
flourish  best  under  some  other  r/gimt  than  that  of  the 
Fatherland.  The  “ mailed  fist " and  conscription  methods 
and  sentiments  of  the  authority  by  which  that  great 
nation  allows  itself  to  be  dominated  does  not  seem 
conducive  to  the  independence  of  spirit  which  the 
Colonial  citizen  of  an  Empire  acquires  and  exacts. 

There  are  several  points  of  view  from  which  the 


South  American  Relations 


363 


Monroe  Doctrine  may  be  considered.  It  may  be  thought 
of  as  a protecting  agency  from  the  rapine  and  predatory 
nations  of  Europe  bent  upon  conquest  of  defenceless 
American  Republics  in  the  New  World ; and  it  is  highly 
probable  that  if  it  did  not  exist  much  territory  in 
those  continents  would  have  passed  by  conquest  into 
European  possession.  Whether  both  humanity  in  general 
and  South  America  in  particular  would  have  benefited 
by  this  is  an  interesting  matter  for  discussion — probably 
they  would.  Yet  certain  sentiments  of  liberty,  patriotism, 
and  Americanism  would  have  been  outraged  in  the 
process,  and  from  that  point  of  view  the  doctrine  is 
philosophical.  None  can  deny,  also,  that  its  original 
meaning  and  enunciation  against  a wicked  “ Holy 
Alliance”  — a wolf  in  sheep’s  clothing  of  fanatical 
religious  powers  — was  a measure  for  the  protection  of 
civilisation,  in  a sense  ; and  by  Great  Britain  this  doctrine 
was  invented,  and  by  the  Americans  defended.  As  far, 
also,  as  Great  Britain  is  concerned  the  maintenance  of 
the  Doctrine  is  of  considerable  advantage,  for  by  it  the 
United  States  protects  British  America  in  time  of  war 
against  that  country’s  enemies.  Any  attack  on  Canada 
or  other  part  of  the  British  Empire  in  the  New  World 
would  embroil  the  United  States.  The  wonderful  growth 
of  Canada  itself  will  soon  be  a factor  in  this  matter 
also,  and  Canada  is  becoming  an  American  Power.1 

The  other  point  of  view  for  considering  the  Doctrine 
is  that  of  its  selfish  nature  rather  than  the  altruistic 
attitude  in  which  it  is  represented.  Its  tendency  may 
be,  perhaps,  to  raise  up  barriers  to  intercourse  and 
commerce  between  the  Old  and  the  New  Worlds.  Why 
should  barriers  of  influence  or  pretension  be  raised  up 
between  nations?  The  present  age  tends,  rather,  to 
dispel  them.  Is  there,  also,  anything  hypocritical  in 
the  Doctrine  in  view  of  the  North  American’s  attitude 
and  action  towards  other  States,  as  witness  Panama,  the 
Philippines,  etc.?  Will  it  be  possible,  also,  for  the 
United  States  to  take  moral  charge  of  the  Republics  of 

1 British-American,  that  is. 


864 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


Central  and  South  America  and  to  arrange  matters  with 
their  great  European  creditors?  The  future  must  say, 
and  it  alone  will  show,  whether  these  States  will  acquire 
stability  under  this  >Egis,  or  whether  they  will  develop 
temerity  towards  the  easy  repudiation  of  their  obliga- 
tions— a further  development  of  the  marked  characteristics 
which  they  possess  already.  Unfortunately  the  business 
and  administrative  methods  of  the  North  Americans  are 
not  such  as  to  warrant  their  yet  taking  up  the  position 
of  mentor  to  any  one ; probably  the  responsibility  as  a 
world-power  which  they  are  acquiring  will  bring  greater 
worthiness  among  them  ; and  one  thing  is  certain — the 
closer  their  association  with  Great  Britain,  the  sooner  will 
their  capacity  for  righteous  administration  be  developed. 

The  improved  relations  between  Great  Britain  and 
the  United  States,  which  of  late  years  has  so  fortunately 
developed,  will,  in  time,  influence  Englishmen  in  South 
America.  At  present  British  subjects  living  or  engaged 
in  business  in  the  Spanish- American  Republics — and  they 
are  numerous— do  not  like  the  North  Americans : not 
to  use  a stronger  term.  This  is  due  to  various  causes. 
The  unfortunate  methods  of  the  Cleveland  Administration 
during  the  Venezuela  incident  with  Great  Britain  left 
a lasting  impression  on  British  inhabitants  of  Spanish 
America.  They  consider  that  Britain  was  affronted  and 
blufTed,  and  the  impression  was  given  to  the  South 
Americans  that  she  feared  to  hold  her  own,  when  in 
reality  it  was  a wonderful  forbearance  she  was  dis- 
playing towards  the  United  States.  This  resulted  in  a 
loss  of  prestige  for  Britain  in  South  America,  for  the 
Spanish- American  character  does  not  readily  grasp  the 
sentiment  of  political  generosity,  but  is  prone  to  applaud 
success,  in  whatever  form  it  be  gained.  Also,  British 
traders  in  South  America  are  generally  old-established, 
and  upright  in  their  methods,  and  they  resent  Yankee 
shrewdness.  Of  course,  there  is  a slight  admixture  of 
envy  in  this,  or  rather  the  feeling  of  regarding  the 
Americans  as  interlopers  in  a field  previously  their  own. 

But  in  general  terms,  the  influence  of  the  United 


South  American  Relations 


365 


States  in  South  America  must  make  for  stability  and 
order.  It  can  hardly  prejudice  European  affairs — com- 
merce cannot  be  altered  or  controlled  by  such  matters  ; 
and,  so  far,  European  trade  with  South  America  holds  its 
own.  If  it  loses  in  the  future  it  will  be  due  to  its  own 
methods,  or  to  the  commercial  methods  of  the  United 
States,  if  these  develop  superiority  over  European 
methods. 

But,  putting  aside  commerce,  the  development  of  Peru 
and  kindred  nations  of  South  America  depends  largely 
upon  the  immigration  of  labour  from  Europe.  Labour 
from  the  United  States  will  not  go  there,  and  Asiatics 
are  looked  upon  with  growing  disfavour.  Italians, 
Spaniards,  Austrians,  and  others  will  continue  to  enter  ; 
and  in  the  future  this  immigration  must  rapidly  increase, 
due  to  the  restrictions  now  being  placed  upon  entry  into 
the  United  States.  South  American  countries  cannot 
yet  afford  to  place  restrictions  of  this  nature : they  want 
population  at  all  hazards,  and  continue  to  welcome  all 
comers  to  their  freer  shores.  The  United  States  as  a 
home  for  the  poor  and  oppressed  is  rapidly  becoming  a 
closed  quantity. 

And  here  may  be  permitted  a momentary  digression 
upon  this  point.  Has  any  American  country  the  right 
to  close  its  ports  to  the  entry  of  any  individual,  saving, 
of  course,  known  criminals  ? To  whom,  may  it  be  said, 
does  America  belong?  Is  it  permissible — philosophically 
speaking — to  weed  out  the  lowest  element  of  immigrating 
humanity  which  arrives  on  American  shores,  and  retain 
only  the  best  element?  Is  it  just  or  wise?  If  it  were 
to  continue  indefinitely  it  would  be  disastrous  for  the 
emigrating  nations : to  have  their  dregs  thrown  back 
upon  them  and  to  give  up  the  cream  of  their  people. 
Of  course,  the  remedy  for  that  lies  somewhat  in  their 
own  hands — to  create  conditions  which  shall  keep  their 
people  at  home.  But  it  must  soon  be  asked  at  what 
point  in  its  history  has  a new  country  — America, 
Australia,  Africa — the  right  to  place  an  embargo  upon 
immigrants  from  the  Old  World.  I have  never  forgotten 


366 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


a caricature  1 once  saw  in  a New  York  comic  paper, 
when  the  subject  of  the  restriction  of  immigration  first 
arose.  Upon  the  quay  of  a seaport  were  pictured  four 
pot-bellied  and  prosperous-looking  individuals,  wearing 
enormous  watch-chains  and  sparkling  with  diamonds — 
millionaires,  in  short.  This  vanguard  of  civilisation  was 
repulsing  with  outstretched  hands  the  entreaties  of  boat- 
loads of  poor  and  half-starved  immigrants  from  Europe, 
that  they  might  be  allowed  to  land.  And  now  comes 
the  point  Behind  the  bloated  and  prosperous  individuals 
aforesaid  appeared  respectively  the  phantom  forms  of 
four  wretched  immigrants,  of  hunger -stricken  aspect — 
the  phantoms  of  the  forefathers  of  the  four  individuals 
who  denied  admittance  to  the  immigrants  of  to-day,  to 
the  prosperity  which  they  themselves  had  enjoyed ! The 
picture  carries  its  own  moral. 

What  is  to  be  the  future  of  South  America?  Children 
of  the  same  race,  arc  they  likely  to  unify  and  form  one 
continent  and  nation,  as  did  the  States  of  North  America, 
their  model  ? At  present  there  is  no  tendency  to  do  so. 
The  present  division  is  more  to  the  liking  of  the  Spanish- 
Americans.  It  gives  them  opportunity  for  a multiplication 
of  Presidential  and  all  other  executive  and  official  posts, 
of  which  they  are  fond.  The  jealousies  and  demarcations 
between  them  are  as  strong  as  between  nations  of  totally 
different  races,  and  it  would  seem  impossible  yet  that  a 
common  Chief  and  Capital  could  be  agreed  upon.  The 
territory  is  too  vast,  and  lacks  means  of  communication. 
It  takes  as  long  to  travel  from  one  part  of  South  America 
to  another,  as  to  journey  from  that  continent  to  Europe. 
So  formidable  arc  the  barriers  which  Nature  interposes, 
in  the  form  of  mountains  and  forests,  that  the  Pacific 
seaports  of  Peru  arc  in  easiest  communication  with  the 
Peruvian  river  ports  on  the  Amazon — as  Iquitos — by 
going  round  South  America,  crossing  to  Liverpool,  and 
going  back  again  through  Brazil.  This  is  due  to  a lack  of 
a trans  • continental  railway,  joining  the  Pacific  Coast  with 
the  river  system  of  the  Amazon.  Peru  should  construct 
this  railway  ; the  lack  of  it  endangers  her  vast  possession 


South  American  Relations 


367 


on  the  Amazon.  Experience  has  shown  even  European 
Powers  that  great  territorial  possessions  without  railways 
are  an  element  of  danger.  It  is  vital  for  her,  both 
commercially  and  strategically,  to  link  her  Pacific  Coast 
with  her  river  Amazon  possessions  by  a line  of  railway 
If  not,  the  day  may  arise  when  neighbours  who  cast 
envious  eyes  will  stretch  forth  perfidious  hands  upon 
her  Orient ! 

It  is  doubtful,  also,  if  the  day  has  yet  arrived  for 
these  countries  to  pursue  their  destiny  in  common.  The 
continent  and  its  vast  resources,  so  far  scarcely  touched, 
will  be  developed  more  readily  by  these  varying  units  of 
Government,  each  doing  its  part,  than  by  one  possible 
Central  Authority.  The  essential  condition  is  peace 
among  themselves — both  domestic  and  neighbourly  peace 
— and  then  foreign  capital  and  immigrants  will  natur- 
ally flow  that  way.  Fantastic  doctrines,  also,  regarding 
sovereignty  and  the  regulation  of  debt-responsibility  must 
be  avoided.  The  laws  of  “ mine  and  thine  ” cannot  be 
changed,  even  in  America,  be  it  North  or  South. 

We  may,  however,  as  regards  unification,  indulge  our 
fancy  for  a moment  in  possible  combinations  of  South 
American  Republics.  Let  us  place  together  Peru,  Chile, 
and  Bolivia,  with  a common  Capital  on  the  high  plateau 
of  Titicaca.  Here,  in  this  keen  and  rigorous  region,  the 
governing  power  of  a virile  and  energetic  race  might 
develop.  They  might  acquire  something  of  the  spirit — as 
regards  good  government  and  cohesion — of  the  old  Inca 
regime  which  flourished  there.  They  would  control  a vast 
region  of  millions  of  square  miles,  containing  the  richest 
mineral  region,  and  the  most  varied  topographical  and 
climatological  territory  in  the  world.  The  spirit  of 
courtesy  and  the  scientific  and  literary  instincts  of  the 
people  of  Lima  and  Peru,  would  blend  with  the  spirit  of 
enterprise  and  daring  of  the  men  of  Valparaiso  and 
Santiago  de  Chile,  and  with  the  patience  of  the  Bolivian. 
The  stars,  stripes,  eagles,  cannons,  and  other  devices  of 
their  various  insignia  would  be  blazoned  on  a common 
standard  which  should  wave  over  a thousand  leagues  of 


368 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


Pacific  Coast,  dominate  the  Andes,  and  bear  its  influence 
into  the  great  regions  of  the  Amazon.  It  is  not  an 
unnatural  picture,  and  against  them  would  be  grouped 
Argentina,  with  Uruguay  and  Paraguay,  Ecuador,  Colombia, 
and  Venezuela,  and  Brazil. 

What  a remarkable  instance  of  the  present  vanity  of 
true  economy  in  human  affairs  a South  American  Republic 
presents ! Consider  any  one  of  these  communities.  What 
are  they?  They  are  small  bodies  of  people  with  vast 
areas  of  rich  territory  such  as  could  keep  the  whole  of 
their  inhabitants  in  comfort  and  wealth,  if  these  riches 
were  exploited  in  a common-sense  manner.  Not  a 

penny  need  they  ask  from  Europe,  did  they  but  use  in 
a natural  way  what  Nature  has  given  them.  Here  is 
gold  for  coinage,  metals  for  manufacture,  cotton  and 
wool  for  clothing,  wheat  and  meat  for  food,  labour  and 
materials  for  roads,  knowledge  for  directing  their  work, 
and  science  and  art  in  their  midst ; in  short,  all  the 
essentials  for  a self-centred  and  self-supporting  com- 
munity which,  it  might  seem,  could  carry  on  its 
civilisation  and  work  out  its  own  salvation  and  destiny 
entirely  independent  from  the  rest  of  the  world.  But 
it  cannot.  To  do  this  its  rulers  and  politicians  would 
have  to  be  free  from  the  defects  of  ambition,  avarice, 
and  cruelty,  which  they  display  in  a degree  so  marked 
in  comparison  with  the  rest  of  the  civilised  world. 
Indeed,  to  consummate  such  a condition  philosophers 
must  be  presidents,  and  presidents  must  be  imbued  with 
philosophy  — to  paraphrase  Plato  — a condition  which 
does  not  yet  arise.  What  is  civilisation  ? Does  it 
consist  of  turning  out  the  greatest  number  of  pieces  of 
finished  manufacture  in  the  shortest  possible  time  at 
the  least  possible  cost,  and  selling  the  greatest  number 
to  the  other  nations  of  the  world?  Does  it  consist  of 
loans  abroad,  of  armies  and  navies?  No;  though  these 
seem  to  be  necessary  adjuncts  to  the  phases  through 
which  Spanish- American  civilisation  must  pass.  Civilisa- 
tion might  rather  be  defined  as  the  making  use  of  all 
the  bounties  that  Nature  has  provided  to  a community, 


South  American  Relations 


369 


in  a philosophical  sense,  demanding  the  highest  possible 
standard  of  life  for  the  individual  citizen,  as  a unit  of 
the  whole,  and  providing  him  the  means  whereby  he 
may  attain  this  condition.  Civilisation  should  really 
consist  in  establishing  a minimum  standard  of  living 
below  which  none  of  its  citizen  units  should  be  per- 
mitted to  fall,  and  which  should  be  the  basal  plane  of 
higher  developments.  But  none  of  the  nations  of  the 
world  carry  this  out  yet;  could  it  be  expected  that 
South  America  could  do  so?  Yet  it  might  be  more 
easily  accomplished  by  the  South  American  Republics 
than  by  any  other  community  in  the  world,  having  in 
view  the  small  populations  there,  inhabiting  vast  and 
rich  territories.  It  is  a common  saying  in  Peru,  for 
example,  that  the  country  may  be  likened  to  a beggar 
in  rags  seated  upon  a mountain  of  gold ! In  these 
countries  there  is  a mine  for  every  inhabitant;  a farm 
for  every  child.  But  alas!  for  any  birth  to  mankind  of 
a new  order  or  method  of  social  economy,  in  the  New 
World.  Mankind  might  have  hoped  for  some  true  and 
philosophical  application  of  the  gifts  of  Nature  to  the 
needs  of  man  in  the  Americas.  Far  from  it.  Man’s 
inhumanity  to  man  is  as  terrible  as  heretofore.  The 
prey  of  man  is  man,  there:  as  before  Columbus  sailed, 
or  before  the  Pilgrim  Fathers  “moored  their  bark  on  a 
wild  New  England  Coast.”  President  was  substituted 
for  monarch — and  so  the  ruler,  divested  of  the  noblesse 
oblige  which  hedged  a king,  exercised  the  untrammelled 
tyranny  and  petty  faults  of  the  common  man.  Or  so  it 
has  been  in  Spanish  and  Portuguese  America,  whilst  in 
the  Anglo-Saxon  Republic  of  the  North  more  ingenious 
weapons  have  been  forged  by  its  inhabitants  to  oppress 
their  fellows.  We  know,  we  feel,  in  our  optimistic  survey 
of  the  world  that  these  are  passing  phases — evil  which 
shall  give  place  to  good  ; but  we  also  feel  that  an  image 
has  been  dashed  from  its  pedestal,  and  our  hearts  turn 
to  old  Europe,  whence  the  great  civilising  streams  of  life 
and  thought  and  action  flow. 

These  civilising  streams  must  more  and  more  become 

2 A 


370 


The  Andes  and  the  Amazon 


directed  to  South  America  in  the  near  future,  and  a fusion 
of  races  will  take  place  there  which  may  yet  develop 
principles  and  methods  new  and  useful  to  the  world  at 
large — the  eloquent  and  idealistic  temperament  of  the 
Spanish-American  allied  to  the  spirit  of  practicability  of 
the  European.  For  the  present  the  development  of  this 
vast  continent  lies  with  the  matters  of  railway  building 
and  immigration.  Vigorous  trans-continental  construc- 
tion of  lines,  such  as  has  taken  place  in  the  United 
States,  Canada,  Africa,  and  elsewhere,  and  a diverting 
of  the  army  of  emigrants  from  the  Old  World  to  its 
great  territories,  such  as  in  Peru  and  kindred  countries  * 
exist,  will  cause  a change  in  the  regimen  of  South 
America,  such  as  the  observer  of  to-day  can  hardly 
picture. 


INDEX 


A 

Abancay, 165 
Abduction,  104 

Abuse  of  the  Indians,  150,  185,  285, 
297 

Acobambilla,  133 
Aconcagua,  178 
Acoustics,  59,  194 
Acre  region,  291 

Adobe,  54,  74,  75,  91,  127,  153,  195, 
220,  241 
Africa,  4 
Agazzis,  291 

Agriculture,  126,  139,  214,  346-357. 

See  also  “ Cultivation  ” 

Aguamiro,  82 
Alcaldes,  19 
Alcamarini,  122 

Alcohol,  21,  1 18,  122,  128,  139,  151, 
169 

Alfalfa,  23,  hi,  132,  252 
Alluvial  fans,  51 
Alpaca,  hi,  120,  122,  252,  347 
Altitudes,  165 

Amalgamation,  197,  200,  202 
Amazon,  2,  3,  71,  no,  125,  129  166, 
245-293,  356>  36o 

Americans,  in,  204,  206,  291,  295, 
298,  299,  300,  313,  359-370 
Ammonites,  16,  86,  231 
Ananea,  121,  246 
Ancachs,  89,  178,  221,  226 
Andahuaylas,  207 
Andaray,  191 

Andertes,  78,  140,  224,  240,  247,  248 
Andes,  1,  3,  10,  69,  78,  no,  113, 
126,  164,  17 1 , 262,  339 
Anthelion,  54 
Anthracite,  82,  208 
“ Anti-Cristo,”  158 
Antofagasta,  2 

Aporoma,  112,  116,  188,  191,  245, 

247 

Apurimac,  128,  132,  166,  243 
Aqueducts,  244 

Arapa,  Lake,  123,  134,  163,  243,  252 
Arbitration  of  boundaries,  2,  3,  262 

371 


Arch,  in  Inca  architecture,  223,  242 
Architecture,  54,  91,  127,  153,  210- 
236,  3IQ,  323 
Area  of  Peru,  3,  322,  349 
I Arequipa,  3,  14,  50,  54,  89,  92,  no, 
1 53,  162,  165,  166,  191,  344 
Argentina,  250,  253,  360 
Arica,  101,  299,  359 
Aricoma,  in,  118,  167,  187 
Arrieros,  23,  26,  95,  128,  130,  165 
Art,  Indian,  56,  60,  220 
Arucanian,  95 
Asia,  255 

Astronomy,  Inca,  224,  233 
Atahualpa,  191-193,  215 
Atlantic,  4,  164,  176,  262 
Aullagas,  Lake,  252 
Auriferous  regions,  24,  76,  116,  1 19, 
123,  184-191 
Australia,  82 
Ayacucho,  130,  165,  166 
Aymaraes,  191,  197,  242,  255 
Aymaras,  59,  123,  149,  249 
Azangaro,  no,  in,  245 
Azogue , 202 

B 

Balsas,  123 
Bananas,  347 
Banks,  353 

Baths,  7 1,  132,  233,  244 
Beliefs,  Indian,  275,  283 
Beni,  river,  1 10 
Bible,  94,  104,  213 
Bismuth,  72,  207 
Bleeding  stone,  223 
Boas,  121 

| Bolivia,  2,  13,  44,  no,  122,  163,  220, 

; 249,  252,  256,  265, 329, 360 

Booth  line  steamers,  264 
Borax,  184,  207 
Borja,  262 
Bottles,  47,  109 
Boundaries,  2,  362 
Brazil,  2,  177,  254,  256,  265,  360 
Breakwater,  44 
Bridges,  220,  240-244,  250 


372 


Index 


British  enterprise,  206,  208,  248,  295, 

329,  335.  362 

Buccaneers,  188,  295,  314,  336,  351 
Bufon,  131,  202 

C 

Cailloma,  200 

Cajamarca,  89,  165,  192,  194,  207, 
240 

Cajatambo,  200,  208 
Calchaqui,  253 
California,  186,  270,  334 
Callao,  2,  no,  126,  162,  165,  166, 
3i3.  3M.  131 
Camana,  45,  52 
Camanchaca,  5 
Camarones,  2,  59 
Camel  of  the  Andes,  252 
Camp,  12,  31,  67,  1 18,  227 
Canada,  363 
Cane,  7,  126,  227 
Cancte,  191 
Cannibals,  112,  214 
( '.him,  Sebastian,  ; ; 5 
Canoes,  3,  262,  264,  270,  276 
Cantilever,  76,  241 
Capital,  opening  for,  209,  289,  356 
Caps,  Indian,  59 
Carabaya,  no,  186,  191 
Carlos  III.  of  Spain,  212 
Carnival,  105,  145 
Carpa,  Lakes  of,  77 
Carpenters,  Indian,  1 55 
Cartagena,  335 
Casapalca,  207 
Casma,  90,  220 
Castrovirrcyna,  1 30,  200 
Cathedral,  91,  132,  135,  155,  337 
Cattle,  131,  272,  347 
Caucho , set  " India-rubber  ” 

Caves,  5,  36,  1 12 
Cayahuaya,  river,  258 
Cedars,  1 16 
Celibacy,  157 
Cephalopods,  16 

Cerrode  Pasco,  12,  135,  165,  200,  205 

Chachapoyas,  160 

Chaco,  250,  254 

CAamasa,  180 

Chary ui , 150 

Chavin,  Castle  of,  69,  7 X , 72,  226, 
232,  241,  251 
Cheapness  of  living,  102 
Chicha,  61,  74 
Chiclayo,  165 

Child  birth,  Indian  women,  137,  138, 
280 

Chile,  2,  47,  95,  101,  126,  178,  220, 
299.  3*3.  359  _ 

Chimbote,  2,  71,  88,  90,  176,  207, 
220 


Chimus,  242 

Chinamen,  123,  134,  170,  254,  328 
Chinchaicocha,  Lake,  163 
Chira,  3 

Choclococha,  129,  163 
Cholos,  7,  74,  84,  91,  137,  172,  179, 
254 

Chorillos,  191 

Chonta,  83,  84,  202 

Christ,  56,  57 

Chulpas , 248 

Chunchos,  112,  271 

Chuquibamba,  75,  242 

Chuquicara,  river,  191 

Church,  in  Peru,  74.  152159,  315 

, ruined,  53,  121,  132,  337 

Cinnabar,  10,  84,  127,  131,  202 
Cities  of  the  Andes,  89 
Civilisation,  368 
Claims,  mining,  209 
Climate,  4,  76,  81,  127,  131,  132, 
160,  165,  186,  200,  220,  248,  269, 
271,  291,  328,  346-352 
Clothing,  138,  143,  169,275,277-284 
Coal,  13,  15,  82,  130,  134,  184,  207 
Coast  line,  2,  45,  262 

tone,  2,  4,  13,  26,  127,  220, 

346-357 
Cobalt,  207 

Cocaine,  Cota,  77,  150,  173,  176,  177 

Coiha,  163 

Cocoa,  272,  351 

Coffee,  272,  351 

Cojata,  122 

Colluahuasi,  167 

Colombia,  2,  252,  256,  313,  358 

Colon,  313 

Colonial  period,  258 

Colonisation,  346-357 

Columns,  127 

Comtrxio,  newspaper,  150,  271,  2S6 
Commerce,  346-357 
Congo,  285,  291 
Congress  of  Americanists,  216 
Conical  houses,  124 
Conococha,  87,  90,  163 
Copper,  7,  82,  130,  134,  135,  184, 
198,  205-209,  352 

tools,  218,  224,  231,  248,  253 

Cordillera,  10,  13,  89,  164,  171 
Coropuna,  no,  167 
Corrugated  iron,  53 
Cot  a bam  bos,  191 

Co/o,  72,  273 

Cotton,  7,  126,  279  283,  347 
Cretaceous,  184,  206 
Crevasses,  173 
Crosses,  71,  153,  3*5 
Cultivation,  75,  ill,  1 23,  126,  139, 
261,  275,  289,  346-357-  See  also 
Agriculture 
Cumari,  248 


Index 


373 


Cura , 53,  118,  156 
Curacas,  212 
Currency,  353 
Cutani,  113 
Cuyus-Mancu,  195 

Cuzco,  13,  no,  165,  191,  194,  207, 
215,  219,  222,  237,  247,  250 


D 

Dances,  103 
Dartmoor,  81,  82 
Darwin,  291,  295 
Desaguadero,  163,  242,  232 
Deserts,  41,  47,  127 
Despedida , 109 

Destruction  of  rubber  forests,  288 
Devonshire,  42,  75,  81,  314,  333,  335 
Diaz,  President,  318 
Disconfidence  of  Indians,  25,  29,  147, 
297 

Discovery  of  the  Amazon,  258 
Distances  from  Lima,  165 
Distinguished  foreigner,  100 
Divortia  aquarum , 70,  129,  164,  176, 
246,  271 

Don  Quixote,  48,  59,  300 
Drake,  8,  315,  331-335 
Dredging,  gold,  186,  190 
Drunkenness,  21,  61,  92,  118,  128, 
I3S>  145 


E 

Earthquakes,  10,  53,  153,  161, 

314,  336-345 

Easter  Island,  217,  251,  255 
Ecuador,  2,  60,  126,  220,  225,  250, 
254,  256,  262,  313,  329-359 
Egypt,  21 1,  218,  233 
Elections,  316-321 
Electricity,  121,  162,  314 
Elements,  action  of,  40,  87,  161 
Eloquence,  Peruvian,  325-328 
Empire,  Inca,  215,  218 
Engineering  reflections,  41 

school,  309,  351 

works,  Inca,  140 

, native,  140 

Engineers,  Society  of,  309 
England  and  Wales,  3 
Enock,  56 
Equator , 166 
Equipment,  26 
Eten,  3,  166 
Eucalyptus,  82,  242 
Europeans,  170.  See  also  “Colonisa- 
tion,” etc. 

Evaporation,  5 
Evolution,  159,  210 


F 

Faces,  painted,  145,  202 
Feast-days,  92 
Female  perfidy,  107 
Fernandez,  Colonel,  259 
Fever,  85,  128,  165,  290-292,  347 
Fish,  emblem,  217,  250,  251 

life,  129 

Fitzcarrald,  271 
“ Flea  zone,”  144 
Flora,  81,  133,  179,  351 
Flute,  hill  of  the,  147 
Fodder,  23,  26 

Foreigners,  103,  204,  328-329 
Forests,  3,  4,  114,  245-293 
Fossils,  16,  86 
France,  156,  299,  305 

G 

Galena,  199,  200,  207 
Galleons,  8,  314 

Garcilaso,  193,  194,  212,  224,  230, 
247 

Generalisation,  19 
Gentiles , 72,  79,  147,  227 
Geographical  continuity,  1 
Geology,  5,  14,  16,  77,  112,  1 1 7,  130, 
132,  161,  177,  184-209,  186 
Geometrical  appearances,  40,  79 
Germans,  322,  362 
Glaciers,  hi,  172,  180 
Gobernadores , 19,  73,  74,  158,  322 
Gold,  7,  10,  31,  76,  112,  1 18,  130, 
184-196,  197-204,  258,  333 
Gold-bearing  pampas , 186 
Government,  15 1,  158 

of  Peru,  316-322 

Grapes,  347 
Graphite,  207 
Grinding  stones,  250,  251 
Guanaco , 122 
Guano,  5,  44 
Guatemoc,  215 
Guayaquil,  313 
Guayra , 199 
Guinea-pigs,  19 

H 

Hakluyt  series,  196 
Halo,  55 
Hamburg,  264 
Harbours,  2 
Hawkins,  335 

Heads,  reduced  human,  281 
Hegemony,  American.  See  ‘ ‘ Monroe 
Doctrine  ” 

Hieroglyphics,  212 
Highest  inhabited  places,  23,  84,  121, 
165-170,  205 


374 


Index 


History  of  gold,  191*196 
Holy  Family,  56,  92 
Horses,  18,  22 
Hospitality,  too,  134,  158 
Hotel,  124 

Houses,  27,  MS,  1*4.  24*.  *74 

Howe  truss,  242 

Huacas , 59,  194,  214,  226 

Hualgayoc,  200,  208 

Huallaga,  river,  164,  166,  256,  264 

Huallanca,  82,  200,  208 

Huallpa,  Felipe,  192 

Hoamachuco,  208 

liuancanc,  123 

Huancavelica,  94,  125,  131,  165,  191, 
200,  202,  207 

Huancayo,  94,  13$,  163,  207,  208 

Huando,  133 

Huantar,  71,  74.  147,  17! 

Huanuco,  94,  166,  191 

, Viejo,  221,  223,  226,  229*236, 

241,  251 

lluarapasca,  167 

Huarax,  69,  82,  85,  87,  91,  16$,  166, 
171,  194.  *5* 

Hoari,  171.  200,  20S 
Hoari-hoari,  1 1 3 
Huarmarca,  1 3,  164,  166 
lloarochirt,  200,  20S 
lluascar,  192.  194 

« 77*  *83 

lluaylat,  13,  87.  *66,  176,  191,  200, 
208 

Huayllay,  206 

Huayna,  river,  1 16 

Huayna  Capac,  192.  194.  221,  237 

Huiracocha.  Sm  * * Viracocha  " 

Human  tallow,  147 

Homay,  128 

Humboldt,  131,  202,  262,  291 
— current,  5 

Hydraulic  mining,  121,  186,  190,  247 

power,  118,  162,  170,  198,  314 

Hydrography,  119,  1*9.  162,  170, 
187,  252.  Sm  a.'i 0 " Rivets” 
Hygiene,  97,  138 

I 

ICA,  126,  165,  IQI,  207 
Ice-cap.  Sm  “ Snow-cap  " 
Immigration,  151,  34*  357.  35**  37® 
Inamban,  river,  no,  113,  124 
Inca  astronomy,  224  226 

masonry,  221,  224,  23 1,  250, 

251.  323 
Incahoaui,  127 

Incas.  78.  86.  ill,  138,  1 39.  19*. 
210^255.  258.  278  283.  349 

bridges,  73.  *20.  240 

carving.  73,  223.  231,  234,  253 

cultivation,  78,  214 


Incas,  descendants,  218,  219 

laws,  214,  249 

mining,  115,  184,  188,  197, 

199.  245  247 

monoliths,  73,  222,  223,  225 

priests,  59 

religion,  86,  194,  195,  214,  316 

roads,  70,  115,  237  255 

ruins,  34,  69,  72,  77.  79.  **9. 

127,  147,  220  255 
Indians  of  the  forests,  1 12,  245*293 
Sierra,  91,  1 -’3,  133,  137- 

*$* 

India-rubber,  270,  285-293 

cultivation  of,  289 

exports,  292 

forests,  destruction  of,  288 

gatherers,  273  • 275,  282  • 284, 

285  293 

iniquity  of,  275,  282,  285 

laws  relating  to,  293 

Iniquity  of  mining,  204,  209 
Inquisition,  315,  338 
Intihuauna,  222,  224-226 
Intipampa,  248 
Iodine,  72 

Iquique,  47.  3*3.  3*9 
Iquitos,  264,  289,  350  352 
Iron,  13,  184,  207 

Irrigation,  7,  13,  45,  126,  140,  162, 

*44.  34*  357 
Islay,  44.  2<» 

Isthmus.  Si4  " Varadcros  ” 

Italy,  156 

Izcuchaca,  133,  163 


fAGUAB,  51 

apanese,  254 
auja,  133.  163 
crrmiah,  93 

iuliaca,  121,  124 
unin,  163,  200 
uraaaic,  16,  184 

K 

XlMBALETRS,  197.  250 
Knots,  13,  205 
Khubla  Khan,  254 

L 

Labourers,  349 
Lake-basins,  13,  120 
Lakes,  70.  77,  82,  87,  tit,  Il8,  I2J, 
129,  162,  163,  187 
Lam  pa,  200 
I am  pas.  87 

Land,  available,  272,  347 
price  of,  172 

Landing,  difficulties  of,  44,  314 


Index 


375 


Langui,  163 

Latitude  and  longitude,  2,  136,  167 

Lauricocha,  82,  84,  163 

Laws,  mining,  208 

Lead,  72,  82,  184,  198,  207 

Lemons,  81 

Lignite,  208 

Lima,  2,  73,  153,  162,  166,  307-330 

Geographical  Society,  21 1,  224, 

257,  272,  277,  286,  309 
Limbani,  112 
Limon,  Port,  262,  352 
Line  of  vegetation,  114 
Liverpool,  264 
Lixiviation,  200 

Llamas,  III,  120,  122,  239,  252,  347 

LlocliaSy  51 

Loads,  pack-mule,  26 

Lodes,  198-209 

Loja,  13 

Loreto,  247,  351 

Lost  in  the  forests,  259-260 

mountains,  33,  41 

Lotteries,  323 

Love,  103,  141,  142,  148,  304 
Lucanas,  200 
Lupinus,  81,  179 

M 

Machetes , 112 
Madera,  river,  no,  253 
Madidi,  river,  250 

Madre  de  Dios,  river,  no,  188,  247, 
257,  258,  265 
Magallanes,  335 
Magnesia,  207 
Maguey  > 61 
Maita  Capac,  243 
Maiz,  347 
Mama-Huaco,  212 
Manaos,  291,  352 
Manchester  goods,  96 
Manco-Capac,  213,  253 
Mantaro,  river,  132,  163 
Manu,  river,  247 

Maranon,  river,  13,  69,  71,  75,  78, 
81,  82,  163,  164,  1 66,  176,  190, 
191,  203,  220,  229,  240,  256,  264, 
333 

Marcapata,  river,  191 
Marine  emblem,  231,  251,  255 
Markham,  Port,  124,  265 

, Sir  Clements,  124,  178,  196, 

212,  225,  226 
Marriage,  142,  278-280 
Marta  Capac,  225 
Masks,  Indian,  169 
Mataraju,  167 
Meat  extracts,  63,  64 
Mercury,  13 1,  202 
Mestizos , 248,  273-295 


Metamorphic  rocks,  14,  77,  200 
Methodists,  315 

Mexico,  34,  61,  71,  99,  144,  202,  206- 
215,  299,  305,  318 
Mica,  207 

Military  element,  25,  297 
Milk,  condensed,  129 
Mineral  deposits,  3,  13,  15,  76,  130, 
184,  273,  347 

wealth,  132,  184-209 

Mining.  See  “ Mineral  wealth” 

coal,  134,  207 

copper,  130,  134,  135 

gold,  118,  121,  122,  130,  134, 

184-204,  246,  273 

hydraulic,  121,  186,  190,  246 

Indian,  77,  120,  131,  170,  188, 

197,  199,  201,  205 

lead.  See  “ Mineral  wealth  ” 

quicksilver,  84,  127,  131 

silver,  88,  129,  130,  134,  200 

Mint,  Lima,  190,  191 
Miraculous  representations,  57,  211- 
21 3>  342 
Mirage,  42 
Misti,  14,  167 

Mists,  5,  n,  54,  78,  113,  179,  347 

Mollendo,  3,  44,  no,  166,  313 

Molybdenite,  207 

Mongolian,  254 

Monkeys,  274 

Monroe  Doctrine,  360-364 

Monson,  77 

Montana,  3,  77,  112,  124,  156,  166, 
171,  191,  245-293,  346-357 
Mont  Blanc,  176 
Moon,  emblem,  248,  253 
Moquegua,  166,  207 
Moraines,  87,  121,  123,  129,  167,  186 
Morgan,  332 
Morococha,  206 
Mortality,  138,  283 
Mosquitoes,  128 
Moulding  of  stones,  222,  232 
Mountain  climbing,  171-183 

sickness.  See  “ Soroche  ” 

Moyobamba,  166 

Mules,  18,  22,  25,  46,  65,  96,  130 

Mummies,  112,  227 

Music,  native,  141,  147,  149 

Muro,  272 

Mysterious  painter,  57 

N 

Native  signalling,  274,  281 
Nature  and  man,  17,  18,  32,  39,  41, 
116,  161,  170,  210,  249,  256,  258, 
259,  285,  344 

Navigation,  3,  123,  166,  356,  360. 

See  also  “ Rivers’"' 

Nazca,  191 


370 


Index 


Negroes,  7 

Newspapers,  150,  296,  326,  328 
New  Zealand,  255 
Niagara,  55 
Nickel,  207 

Nitrate  fields,  47,  184,  203,  360 
Noble  metals,  203 
No  hay  zone,  24 
Nomenclature,  149 
Nordenskuld,  Baron,  249-251,  254 
North  America,  153 

O 

OcoSa,  45.  5* 

Ocros,  191 
Olive-trees,  45,  347 
Ollantaitainbo,  222 
Oranges,  81,  351 
Orcococha,  129,  163 
Orcoa,  194 
Oregon,  m 

Ores,  7,  87,  139.  185  209 
Orient,  Peruvian,  257 
Origin  of  the  Incas,  210-255 
>1  -• 

Oroya,  14,  134,  166,  307,  *44 
Ottuco,  191,  20S 
Output  of  gold,  191 

silver,  aoo 

Ovas,  75 

P 

Pacasmayo,  308 
Pacchani,  113 
Pachacamac,  194,  195,  220 
Pachacutec,  221 
l*achas,  75,  82 
Pacific  Ocean,  164,  176 
Paititi,  353 

I 'Alma  Ricardo,  148,  212 
Pamparajo,  176 
Pampas,  river,  129,  163 
Panama,  3,  313,  358 

hats,  60 

Pan-American  railway,  69 
Pangua,  248 
Pari.  201.  352 

Pardo,  Doctor  Joa4,  319,  320 
Pariaca,  75 

Parioacochas,  Lake,  163 

Passes,  4.  *3.  69.  90.  91.  1*6.  164, 
171-177,  203 
Pasto,  13 
Pasture,  5,  131 
Pataa,  190,  191 
Pato  canyon,  90 
Patron,  Pablo,  216,  251 
Paucartambo,  river,  lot,  247,  258 
Payta,  2,  164.  *66,  262,  313 


Peaks,  3,  7,  14,  84,  85,  110,  III, 
122,  123,  167,  178 
Perpetual  spring,  166 
Peruvian  Corporation,  321,  355 
Peruvians,  294-330 
Petroleum,  207,  208 
Phara,  117 

Philosophical  reflections,  8,  33,  37, 
39,  68,  170,  182,  201,  235-236, 
246,  282,  284,  385,  345,  368,  369 
Picha,  river,  248 
Pichis  road,  3 
Pierola,  Sen  or,  319-320 
Pilco-Sifa,  213 
Pinclo,  199 
Pinson,  Vicente,  258 
Pisco,  103,  128,  129,  166,  208, 
220 

Pistaco,  146 
Piura,  164,  165,  220 
Pirarro,  185,  192,  215,  230,  246 
Plateaus,  120,  124,  129,  160170, 
*48.  J46  357 
Plutonic  rocks,  14 
Plymouth,  315 
Poccha,  river,  71 
Poisoned  arrows,  282 
PoH<koi,  60 

Pong*  dt  M«mstruki%  262 

Poopo,  Lake,  163,  252 

Population,  91,  140,  185,  349 

Porttuhtuio,  171 

Portillo,  Colonel,  277 

Ports,  2,  44.  262 

Portuguese,  197 

Poto,  120,  l86,  19!,  25O 

Potoai,  199 

Pottery,  58 

Prairie  grass,  6l,  131 

Precipices,  66 

Prefects,  322,  324 

Pre- historic  ruins,  253,  254.  S44  alio 

" Inca  ruins” 

Pre  Inca  period,  215-217 

Prmia,  newspaper,  326 

Prescott,  212,  226 

President  of  Peru,  320 

Priev  ~ \ 1 A U3.  148.  IS*. 

15*159,  195.  315 
Processions,  religious,  92 
Profiles  of  the  Andes,  166 
Provisions,  62,  117 
Pc  car  a,  III 
Pulque,  61 
Puli  puli,  river,  115 
Puma,  150 
Punchou.  255 
Puno,  186,  188,  200 
Pun  too,  255 
Purus,  river,  265 
Pyramids,  220 
1 Pyritic  smelting,  20 2 


Index 


377 


Quarantine,  312,  313 

Qtiebradas , 33,  41 

Quechuas,  19,  34,  45.  72,  73.  91, 

131,  138,  149,  183,  226,242,  255 
Queen  Elizabeth,  332 

Isabella,  331 

Quespisia,  129,  200 
Queues,  123,  255 

Quicksilver,  13,  131,  184,  19 1,  197, 
202-203,  251 
Quillcay,  172 
Quinine,  272 
Quinua,  191 
Quipos,  212,  223 
Quispicanchi,  191 
Quispijahua,  130 
Quito,  192,  223,  237 

R 

Race  characteristics,  1,  14,  12, 

132,  173,  206.  See  also  “Per- 
uvians ” 

“Race-suicide,”  159 
Rafts,  123,  218,  242,  262,  264,  275 
Railways,  3,  14,  18,  44,  83,  8S,  90, 
94,  no,  125,  126,  135,  144,  166, 
207,  262,  272,  321,  352-357 
Rainfall,  4,  114,  126,  160,  163,  172, 
240,  264,  270,  348-350 
Rainless  region,  12,  39,  126 
Raleigh,  219 
Rameses  III.,  218 
Ramie,  347 
Ransom,  191,  193 
Rapids,  262 
Rate  of  travel,  97 
Rattlesnakes,  273 

Raymondi,  84,  1 3 1 , 178,  183,  202, 
230,  309 

Reaction,  93 
Recuay,  87,  200 

Relations,  South  American,  358-370 
Remedies  for  soroche , 169,  176 
Republican  period,  258 

spirit,  308,  316-320 

Retiring  snow-cap,  70,  167 
Retreta , 97 
Revolution,  316-320 
Revolver,  51,  122,  173 
Rice,  347 
Rimac,  162,  314 

Rivers,  3,  45,  51,  52,  132,  162, 
261-293 

navigable,  3,  125,  164,  261-276, 

291,  356 

Roads,  94,  ill,  126,  132,  135,  171, 
198,  237-224,  245 
Robbers,  25,  71,  143,  229 
Robinson  Crusoe,  36,  334 


Romana,  Senor,  309 
Roman  Catholicism,  56,  92,  138,  146, 
152*159,  192,  315 
Rosell,  Ricardo,  257-277 
Royal  Geographical  Society,  82,  no, 
124,  178,  226,  230,  249 
Rubber-gatherers,  273,  275,  282,  284, 
285-293 
Ruskin,  53 

S 

Sacramento  pampa,  261 
Sacsaihuaman,  222 
Saddles,  26 
Salavery,  3,  166 
Salpo,  191,  200 
Salt,  130,  184,  207 
Sand,  action  of,  5,  41,  48,  50 
Sand-dunes,  6,  49 
Sandia,  no,  186,  191,  333 
San  Gaban,  245 

Juan  del  Oro,  245,  246 

Marcos,  75 

Santa  Barbara,  202 

Inez,  129,  166 

river,  71,  87,  163,  167,  176 

Sara-sara,  167 
Sarmiento, 

Savages,  138,  156,  271,  293 
Schools,  351 

Scientihc  institutions,  310 
Scorpion,  144 
Seals,  6 

Sea-shells,  195,  250,  251,  254 
Seasons,  266 
Sechura,  208 
Serenata , 98 

Serpent  emblem,  250,  251 
Serranos , 165 

Sex  relations,  103-106,  170,  282 
Sheep,  ill,  120,  131 
Shepherds,  86,  128 
Shiringa.  “ india-rubber  ” 
Shooting  match,  1 00 
Sicuani,  no 
Silurian,  16 

Silver,  7,  10,  72,  82,  130,  134,  184, 
198,  199,  200 
Silyapata,  75 
Sina,  250 
Sinchi  Roca,  258 
Slavery,  185,  275,  282,  283,  286 
Small  landholders,  24,  91,  139 
Smelting  works,  82,  199,  203,  207, 
208 

Snobbishness,  97 

Snow,  4,  11,  78,  in,  1 18,  122,  172 

blindness,  175,  176 

cap,  12,  24,  69,  70,  85,  no,  ill, 

126,  135,  163,  166,  176 
cornices,  122,  182 


878 


Index 


Snow  line,  69,  70,  130,  166,  167,  172, 
176*183 

Social  customs.  See  “ Peruvians  M 
Solimana,  167 
Solorzano,  194 
Sorata,  14,  123,  178 
Soroche , 15,  18,  26,  60,  84,  167- 170, 
176,  179 

Soto,  Hernando,  192 
Spanish  cruelty,  116,  185,  188,  193, 
21S.  297 

historians,  224,  246,  247,  331 

influence,  v,  vii,  xi,  84,  153, 

156,  247 

period,  130,  132,  150,  184,  192, 

197,  210,  226,  258 

proverbs,  49.  160^  geo 

Spinning,  141,  214,  279  283 
Springs,  70,  7*.  *32,  244 
Squires,  226 

Steamers,  5,  264,  31 2-314,  358 
Stone  soup,  64 
Stones,  23 

Strata,  70,  82,  123.  13s 

Suchis,  river,  121 

Sugar,  7,  90,  »76,  180,  347,  350 

Sulphur,  207,  208 

Sumatra,  291 

Sun-worship,  86,  195,  214,  233,  234, 
248  253 

Superstition,  54,  74,  146,  153,  184, 
189,  227,  275,  283 
Suspension  bridges,  61 
Swamps,  64,  83,  123,  163 


T 

Tacna,  ioi,  299,  359 

Tam  bo,  1 13 
Tambopata,  124,  250 
Tantamayo,  75.  82 
Tarapaca,  47,  167,  199,  203,  360 
Tea-time,  61 

Temperatures,  116,  1 18,  121,  130, 
172,  349.  350 

Temple,  Inca,  194,  195,  216 

of  Viracocha,  216,  220 

Tent,  26,  80 

Ter c tanas,  85,  128,  1 30,  165 
Tertiary,  116,  206 
Textile  fabrics,  59,  60,  138 
Thalaba  and  the  sledge,  133 
Tia-Guanaco,  213,  216 
Ticapampo,  87 
Tidai  waves,  53,  3*4.  338 
Tiles,  53,  75 
Timber,  82,  116,  179 
Timpia,  24S 
Tin,  252 

Tinned  meats.  62 
Tirapata,  1 10 


Titicaca,  Lake,  3,  13,  14,  44,  no, 
123,  124,  163,  166,  208,  213,  217, 
218,  222,  243,  249.  251,  252 
Titles,  to  mines,  209 
Tobacco,  272,  347 
Toboganning,  175,  183 
Tonquini,  247,  255 
Topography,  3,  160,  186,  198,  a6o, 
346-357 

Transmigration,  283 
Transvaal  mines,  193 
Treasure,  73,  79,  191,  194,  195,  223, 
234.  245,  332 
Trees,  133 

Tribes,  Indian,  277-284 
Trickery,  29 
Triermain,  78 

Tropical  fruits,  45.  347.  35* 

Trujillo,  153,  162,  165,  166,  242 
Tumbez,  3,  192,  208 
Tumpinambaranas,  253,  282 
Tunduy , 274,  281 
Tupac- Vupanqui,  195,  258 

U 

Ucayali,  13, 129, 132,  166,  248,  257, 
264 

Unexplored  territory,  257,  309 
Universaiism,  210 
Universalist,  155 
Unknown  God,  the,  195,  196 
Urubamba,  165,  247,  265 

V 

Valparaiso,  312 
Valverde,  Vicente,  192-193 
t'araderos,  270 
Vegetable  products,  273 
Vegetation.  15,  114 
Venezuela,  2,  364 
Verbosity,  325  328 
Vermilion,  127,  202 
Vicuna,  60,  120,  122,  169 
Vilafiro,  163 
Vilcabambo,  248 
Vilcanota,  13,  in,  222 
Vineyards,  128,  347 
Viracocha,  195,  216,  220,  251 
Virgin  Mary,  56,  92 
Vitcachas,  120 
Vizcarra,  river,  82,  235 
Volcanoes,  14,  40,  49,  167 
Von  Hassel,  247,  277 

W 

War -towers.  278 
I Washington,  2 
j Water-fowl,  122 
' Wattle  houses,  45,  51 


Index 


379 


Weapons,  Indian,  278-284 
Weaving.  See  “ Spinning  ” 

Wild  bull,  36 
Wine,  native,  58,  126 
Winter,  85 

Wireless  telegraphy,  274,  281 
Wolfram,  207 

Women,  Indian,  21,  137,  141,  142, 
157,  278-284 

of  Lima,  137,  301-306 

Spanish- American,  159 

Wool,  ill,  122,  139,  214,  347 

Y 

Yanas,  75 


Yanashallas,  167 
Yauli,  200,  206,  207 
Yauyos,  208 
Yavari , 147 
Yavero,  river,  247 
Yungay,  166,  179,  191 
Yurua,  river,  266 

Z 

Zanzibar,  291 

Zapata,  191-199,  212,  222,  224,  237 - 
244,  331 

Zegarra,  Senator,  277 
Zinc,  82,  198,  207 


PRINTED  AT  THE  EDINBURGH  PRESS,  9 AND  II  YOUNG  STREET 


